ANCIENT FORTS

OF
JAMMU AND KASHMIR

Dr. Jasbir Singh Sarna

 (1935-2016)
Dedicated to my Respected Uncle
S. Harbhajan Singh Ji
Reid S.E.
Sfo 1Al. BOOI SmrIar Singh J j
Numberdar of 8hatpUf'Q, Kashmir

ANCIENT FORTS OF JAMMU & KASHMIR

By Dr. Jasbir Singh Sarna
E-mail: [email protected]
CMuIhof
ISBN: 978~1-Ij6741313
Fitot Print : 2016
PrK;e : R . 10.00
Publisher : Sant & Singh Publisher
Jammu & Kashmir

Sant & Singh Publishers

Jammu & Kashmir
From the ancient history to the modem times,
walls have been a necessity of many cities
and civilizations.The word 'Fortis, derived from
the latin 'fortis' means strong. In this way fort,
fortress and stronghold generally signifies
military defense in warfare and military bases.
Large forts are known as fortresses and
smaller are fortal~s.
Jammu is familiary known as the
treasure house of ancient monuments. There
are many forts having great historical import-
ance. On the north, Jammu engulfed by Pir
Panjal range, on the south by Punjab, Chamba
towards east and Punjab and Poonch on the
west. Jammu is situated on the right bank of
river Tawi. Jammu's ancient name was
'Madra Janapada' (Rigvid, Mahabharat, Raj
Trangni) Jamwant (Sri Guru Partap Suraj
Granth). Modem HistOriographer's belief
confirms name from Jambu Lochan.
Alphabetically we should mention these
forts as:
Akhnoor Fort : Akhnoor Is s~uated 28
kms from south-west of Jammu, on the
right bank of Chenab river. This fort along
some forts of Reasi, were built by the
Sikhs to control the province of Kashmir
1
which then formed a part of Punjab empire
which stretched from Khyber in west to
Aksiachin (now a part of Chinacontrolled
Kashmir) the easl. According to 'Gazetter
of Kashmir & Ladakh: A brick fort is also
seen on the east of the town. Its sides
are 200 yards in length. walls are 3 feet
thick. This fort was buitt ninety or one
hundred years ago by Mian Tej Singh.
Troops of the Central GoV!. Occupied ~
but some of the descendants of Tej Singh
live in the lown is buin on a terrace above
the river they speak only Punjabl' The
fort is situated near the Jiapota (Tree
after which the Jiapota temple is named).
where Maharaja Ranj~ Singh performed
Raj lilak ceremony to 21 years old Raja
Gulab Singh. Jiapota Ghat is revered by
the Hindus. Gurdwara Tapo Asthan Sant
Baba Sunder Singh of Ali Bag (Mirpur)
was constructed by the Jammu Sikh
Sangal. This fort is being preserved by
the GoV!. as a Dogra Heritage and is
under renovation by Archeological
Survey of India. Currently some parts of
this fort are used as Revenue Office and
a police station.
2
 Bahu Fort: This fort is 5 kms from
Jammu city, situated on a hillock on the
left bank of river Tawi. It is one of the
ancient forts of Jammu. It is assumed
that the fort was constructed about
3,000 years ago by Raja Bahu Lochan.
The renovation was done during Sikh
rule by Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1820.
Dogra rulers did some beautification
lateron. Materials used in its construction
are of sand, stones etc. Inside the fort is
a religious temple dedicated to the Hindu
Goddess Kali, the presiding deity of
Jammu. Locally temple is familiar with
the name 'Bave Wali Mata'.
Earlier the fort was also refurbished
by Autar Dev in 1585. The Fort is about
1000 feet located at an elevation,
opposite the old town of Jammu. The
fort has eight octagonal turrets connect-
ed with thick walls. The towers have
enclosures to house guards. The main
entry is fit to allow passage of elephants
into the fort. On the left entry into the fort
is a water tank, which is 6.1x61 meters
in size and a water depth of 4.6 meters.
A pyramidal structure is on the right flank
3
used as a ammunition store. An underg-
round chamber is used as a prison. This
Chamber has a secret exist to escape
from the fort in case of any emergencies.
The first floor is lavishly built with arches
and decorated with floral designs like a
Baradari or a palace.
Bhlmgarh or Reasl Fort: Reasi is
situated on the bank of river Chenab.
Reasi's anCient name was 'Resial'.
Reasi is 64 kms from Jammu and 27 kms
from Katra. In this region, Bhimgarh,
Zorawar Singh Haveli and Salal Forts are
present.
Initially, the fort was of clay but later
on refurbished with stone etc. Raja Bhim
Dev established Bhimgam state during
8th century. It remained an independent
principality till 1822. \llJhen Khalsa Sar1lar
Lahore consolidated the small states,
the fort is on a hillock about 150 meters
high. This fort is used by the royal families
as a shelter place during the time of war.
In this fort, Kanwar Naunihal Singh,
grandson of Maharaja Ranjit Singh
stayed for a couple of weeks. Since
1989, the fort is in the charge of
Department of Archeology, J&K Gov!.
4
The fort is got damaged several times
due to its age and natural violence. This
fort adds glorification to the city of Reasi.
Zorawar Singh Havell is another
fort of Reasi city. During the time of S.
Dewan Singh in 1810 A.D. Jammu w~n
essed a wave of violence. Maharaja
Ranjit Singh deputed his generals to
curb the rebellion and Gen. Zorawar
Singh Rajput was deputed as administr
ator of this region. Zorawar Singh was
lived in fort, Haveli. Salal fort is also in
region. These small forts are in poor
conditions and unattended.
Dhanldhar Fort: Rajouri is 154 kms
from Jammu. The earliest name of
Rajouri was Rajapura, which figures in
Mahabharat classic. The seventh century
Chinese traveller also mentioned its
name. (A history of India) In Reasi, there
are prominent ancient forts like Dhanidhar,
Mangla Devl, Darhal and Sunderbani fort.
Dhanidhar fort is 2 kms from Rajouri.
Certainly it Is believed that Emperor
Jahangir erected this fort some 400
years ago. Dhanidhar signifies in
Punjabi as highest elevation of land
5
portion. The Dhanidhar village is still in its
close proximity. (Gazatter of Kashmir &
Ladakh). In 1819, Maharaja Ranjit Singh
during his Kashmir campaign attacked this
fort and appointed Mirza Raheem Ullah
Khan as Raja of Rajouri in place of Raja
Agar Khan . Raheem remained goveming
Rajouri Principality upto 1846 under the
Control of Khalsa Damar Lahore. Later,
Raja Gulab Singh appointed Mian Hathu
Governor from 18461856 A.D. Mian
Hathu refurbished Dhanidhar fort with
stones, lime and other materials. The fort
was completed in 1855 A.D. From this fort
whole valley of Rajouri could be viewed.
During the Dogra regime, all t1)e revenue
collectedfrom the farmers in the shape of
grains was dumped in this fort.
Naushera or Mangla Devl Fort :
Naushera is 124 kms.The fort is situated '
18 kms away from Naushera. This fort is
very secured and difficult to access due
to strong massive fortification. The fort
is on the summit of a rocky hill. Ruins of
a number of similar fort like structures
exist on either side of the rivulet flowing
6
past Naushera. These ancient structures
had their own rulers and each one had
to depend against this neighbors. During
the regims of Raja Ranjit Oev, Mian
Rattan Dev had constructed the siege of
fort and brought it under his possession.
History says that Sardar Sahib of Gujarat
and S. Mohan Singh Shaker Chakya also
attacked the fort . Now-8-days this fort
contains a treasury and a building, a huge
damaged tank and a modem temple of

Darhal Fort: Located 12 kms from

Naushera is a fort of Rajouri dominating
the Lam and Damal valleys. Firmly
constructed on a massive rock, with
steep sides, it Is in acessible from all the
sides. The fort is 150 yards in length and
Mata Mangla Devi
20-35 yards in width. This fort was
constructed by a general of Maharaja
Ranjit Singh and was a stronghold of
forces till 1886. Lateron, forces of
Maharaja Gulab Singl1 occupied it. In
1947, the Muslims wanted to occupy this
fort but it was quickly oocupied by the
local Sikhs and Hindus under the leader-
7
ship of Subedar Rani~ Singh. In October 1947
Pakistan forces launched many a\lacks to
capture the fort but they were firmly repulsed
by the staunch resistance under the command
of Subedar Ranj~ Singh. Lateron, Ranjit Singh
achieved martyrdom in one of the skirmishes.
Chlngus Fort : The fort is situated on
the Mughal road near to Noori-Chamb.
According to 'Gazatter of Kashmir and Ladakh'
it is the same place where emperior Jahangir
died and Noor-Jahan MIle) got his entrails
interred. His dead body, less entrails was
taken to Lahore without ~ being disclosed that
he was dead: The Mughal entourage while
passing from Rajouri to Srinagar hatted at
convenient places. Enroute are a number of
mini forts and inns. The two important places
associated Mh them are Chingus and Noon-
Chamb. The fort is in a displapidated condition.
Ja,rota Fort: This fort is also known as
BiRawar fort BiHawar Is 80 Ions from Jammu
and 25 Ions from Kathua. BiHawar was eartier
known as 'WaIapurt' (Rajtarangni). Billawar
(Balaur) was founded by Raja Bhopat Pal
(1598-1614) B~lawar town is situated on the
bank of Naaz and Bhlnni Nallahs. (Encyclcr
paedia of Tourism Resource in India.
The kingdom of Jasrota Wc!S founded by Raja
8
Jasdev of Jammu in 1019 A.D. ACCOIding to
one source, they are Subclan Rajpuls, who
migrated from Rajasthan at the time of
Emperor Aurangzeb.The fort of Jasrota was
erected by the kings of Jasrota. Originany the
fort had seven gates but only four gates mal1l
their existence. The fort is stretched along 700
kanals of land. The fort houses different
palaces, ponds, ancient temples etc.
According to the author of 'The PUr1ab Hill
States 'OWing to the fertility or the track
being so close 10 the plains, the Kingdom
or Jasrota under, its native rulers was once
a powerful state which equaled in importance
with Jammu down 10 the lime or Its extinction
in 1834." There are a few forts namely
lakhanpur Fort, Ramkot fort, ChanchJa Mala
Fort, Basoti Fort, Jandi Fort Hiranagar and
Mehlab Gam Fort, Lakhanpur. These forts
due to frequenl raids and ravages, now
slanding in adipJapidaled conditions.
Samba Fort : Samba is 40 kms from Jammu
city. These forts according to one source were
erected during 13 -14th cenllllY. Samba lown
was named after the Sumb and Raja Maldev,
representing Sumb deity. This ancient fort was
9
build by Raja of Mandi, Naga Raja
Goursen (16791684) . In 180812
Maharaja Ranjil Singh conquerred Jasrota
and brought Samba under Sikh rule and
deputed Raja Suchit Singh as its ruler.
The Samba fort was buiH by Maharaj
Ranjit Singh in 1822 on the remains of
old fort. Some work was carried by Raja
Suchil Singh in 1830 A.D. There are three
forts in Samba namely Mohargarfl Fort,
Dhiirgam Fort and Bebenegam Fort. This
fort is seven kms away on Dhar Road from
national highway. These fort on a plateau
covered by lushgreen fields, fourth fort
namely Malkot is in ruins. In these forts,
there was a govt. school functioning, where
reputed Gulzari Lal Nanda and S.L Sehgal
continued their studies. The gates of MOOa
Igam fort are stiQ intact against the earlier
raids. Red sand, stones etc are utilized in
its construction. The walls of these forts are
two kms In length and 2-4 meters in breadth.

10
Now-a-days noticeable number of famiies
(about 140) of Gujjars, Rajputs, Thakurs etc.
reside in them.The face arcMect of these
forts are an amalgam of Kashmir is popularly
known as the heaven on earth .
Hindu-Muslim-Sikhs archHecture. A lar~
water reservoir is the main source of water
for the reSiding families. The Samba fort is
declared an ancient monument under the
Ancient monument preservation Act 1920.
The Govt underlook conservation and
restoration work in March, 2010. InspHe of
above mentioned forts. there are many
more forts like Krimchi fort. Jagnoo fort,
Badhigarh fort Bajalta (Udhampur).
Poonch fort etc. These forts are in
dilapidated condition but sincere efforts
should be made at the earliest kir their
preservation. Kashmir is popularly
known as the heaven on earth. There
are some heritage glorification sites
including the forts of Kashmir & Ladakh.

11
Harlparbat Fort :
The magnificent fort of Hari Parbat is
three miles from the Srinagar city. This
fort was built by the great Akbar during
his Jrd tour to Kashmir in 1597. Present
part along with complex gallaries were
constructed during the 18th century.
According to Moorcraft, 'at the same
end, the eastern extremity of the city, is
situated the hiU called the Hariparbat at
the southern foot of which is the lake or
Oal. The Kohi-maran is surmounted by
a long narrtlYl fort. beneath the bastions
of which on the edge of the rock, two or
three large guns are mounted, which
command the city. It may be doubted if
the fortess itself could be furnished with
canon, as it is entirely roofed over, and
presents no appearance of embrasures.
Tile slope of the hill is covered with
houses. (Travels, P:338). When Baran
Charles Hugel traveller visited the fort
he writes, At a miles' distance, we
passed the Hirne Parvat mountain, which
terminates the semi circle round the lake
12
 on the west. We passed through dirty
streets, intenninabJe bazars, and over
two canals, to Ihe foil on the Hamiparval
AI the foot of Hamiparval the great Akbar
built another city, which is named Nagar
Nagar and enclosed it with strong waDs
and towers. Blocks of stone and large
Colourns, brought from the more ancient
temples of Kashmir lie in desolate
grandeur around. ....... The fort on the
Hamirparvat called Kimaran is
garrisoned by Sikh troops, but as we
drew near it we were challanged by the
guard and ordered not to proceed any
further, .no to attempt to ascend the
heights. It 'is buiH on the perpendicular
rock and 'commands the entire city: It
might be readered unassailable but for
the total want of water on the mountain.
The fortress was built under the Pathans
by the Governor Ali Mohmmad, Khan,
when he renounced the authority 'of
Kabul. The Kashmirians and ' Sikhs
presume or great deal on this fort, and
even in its present state, it would be a
13
most arduous undertaking to assail it, as
the position of the valley ought to
preclude the possibility of advance to
artillery. (Travels, 1844 (Reprint 1970)
P. 113-120)
There are many mythological
stories linked with this fort. It is also
known as the 52 pithas (Sarikadevi
Temple) of Hindus. Some linked it with
a heritage of Rishi Kasyapa from whom
name of Kasya Papura, or Kashmir
derived. Hariparbat fort was also used
as a 'royal prisioner' Shah Mahmud,
Fateh Khan Shah Shuja detained in the
Hariparbat Fort in 1811, is well known
to history scholars. (The pathans-olaf
caore, P:288) According to RK Parmu,
"The mililary control of these forts vested
in the Thanadars or Commandants who
were invariably Sikhs. Sometimes
Khatris and Brahmins possessing
soldierly qualities and discipline also
performed these duties. The fortified
stations such as Hirapore, Bahramgalla,
14
Ganderbal, Drava Sharda Baramulla,
Uri, Haitian, Chinari and Muzaffarabad,
were strategically most important (A
History of Sikh Rule in Kashmir, P:282)
Shergarhi Fort :
The Shergarhi fort Is situated near the
bridge of Amira Kadal Srinagar. The fort
was originally laid out by the Afghan
Governor Amir Khan Jawansher (1770-76),
on the site previously called Darabagh.
According to BC Hugel; 1 have omitted a
few words on Shaherghur, which derives
its name, accordingly to the best
authorities, not from Shaher city or Shir
Lion, but from the Shiah, the Persian
sect of Mohammadans. The Palace was
built by Amir Khan Jehan and was called
Nursing-Ghur by the Sikhs.' (Travels in
Kashmir and the Punjab, (P:120). The
Shergarhi fort serves the double purpose
of a fort and a palace. ' Originally, it was
rectangular in shape about 400 yards
long and 200 yards wide. II was buill of
stones and mortar. Its walls were aboul
15
22 feet high, supported at intervals by
strong bastions as we find in the rampart
around the Hari Parbat Fort. The interior
consisted of dwelling houses, Governm-
ent offices and barracks for soldiers. The
southern, western and north western
sides more protected by a ditch 30 feet
wide. The northern side was bounded by
the extant Kut-Kol canal, and the eastern
side by the Jehlum river and its stout
embankment.' (Kashmir Handbook Mr.
Ince, P:144)
The fort area was garrisoned
by the Punjabi and Rhilla Soldiery who
resided in the contonment. During Sikh
rule, at Shahid GanJ, in the neighbour-
hood of the Shergarh fort, a new habita-
tion to accommodate the Akalis was
established. Here they lived, prayed
and were eveready for military service.
Dewan Moti Ram, Sikh Governor renov-
ated this fort. Lateron Col. Mian Singh
Sikh Governor built Basant Bagh
opPOSite the fort. Hari Singh Nalwa, the
Sikh governor built a summer house with
16
a white cupola 'on the banks of the river
Jhelum between Shankaracharya Hillock
and the Shergarh fort on a site lying
between the extant Sri Partap College
and the Nedous Hotel, Srinagar.'
(A History of Sikh Rule, P. 312). When
the Sikhs captured ' this fort in 1819,
Dewan Chand and other Sikh Govemors
used it as residence. Col. Mian Singh
constructed a beautiful Dlwani-i-Aam hatl,
one big bazar, barracks, Rang Mahal,
Gole House etc.
Zorawar Fort, Ladakh:
Zorawar Singh (1786-1841) Rajput was
a military general of Maharaja Ranjit
Singh, who conquered Ladakh and
Beltistan in the Sikh times and carried
the Khalsa flag as far as the interior of
libet About Zorawar Singh's place of
birth authorities differ. He was a native
of Kussal, Reasi (Major GC Symth);
Kahlur, Bilaspur (Hutchison & Vogel),
Ansora, Kangra (Narsing Das Nargls).
Zorawar Singh had to make two more
incursions before Ladakh was annexed
to the Sikh Kingdom in 1840. The same
17
year, Zorawar Singh attacked 8altistan.
Zorawar Singh next turned his attention
towards Westem Tibet. According to the
'Umdat-ut-Twarikh .' this was the
suggestion he proferred to Maharaja
Ranjit Singh, when he in March 1836
waited on him at the village of Jandiala
Sherkhan to pay nazarana. He told the
Maharaja that he was ready to 'Kindle
the fires of fightings and by the grace of
ever triumphant glory of the Maharaja,
he would take possesion (Tibet) of it.
"The Maharaja, however, was not willing
to allow him to undertake the adventure.
Zorawar Singh had his chance in the
time of Maharaja Ranjit Singh's succes-
sor, Maharaja Sher Singh. (The Encyclo-
paedia of Sikhism, Vol IV P:462) In 1841 ,
he once again planned and attempted an
invasion of Tibet through ladakh. Unable
to face the winter, the Dogra army could
not fight well and were defeated. The
Great Zorawar Singh General was finally
killed near taklakot on 21 December
1841 .

18
 The Zorawar fort was built by the
General in April 1836, with the help of
local material like clay, Sun dried bricks,
stone, wood etc. The fort is spread on .
area of 27.17 acres of land. Inside the
fort is a natural spring, a temple and a
mosque was built by Zorawar Singh
himself. The fort is surrounded by a moat
3-5 metres in depth. A small wooden
bridge is situated near lhe entrance. A well
demarcated stable is on the left made up
of mud bricks. The aim of providing a base
to sustains the troops in Ladakh is the
main motto of General Zorawar Singh.
The fort was occupied by 300 soldiers,
30 artillery men under the oommand of
Dalel Singh, (Jammu & Kashmir
Territories). The fort is surrounded
by approximately 15 teet high boundary
of Sun dried mud bricks wall. In the centre
of the fort is a army parade ground.
Basgo Fort, Ladakh : Basgo is a
historical town Situated on bank of Indus
river in ladakh. 8asgo fort was built in the
15th century. There is an eXisting heritage
19
monastel)' as well as a collection of
stupas and diapidated fort ruins. 8asgo
is situated about 40 Kms west of Leh
along the Srinagar way. It is known for
its castle ruins and the adjoining royal
temples spectacularly located on the
rocks. The complex of buildings includes
a ruined fortress dating from 15th centul)'.
Below the forts and temples are the small
pretty villages. There is also a semo Fort,
a short distant away from the 8asgo.
Kashmir is a priceless treasure
house of heritage cum archological
monuments. It is the duty of all to restore
the pristine glOly of these century old
monuments and heritage sites. These
forts are assets of glorification and prec-
ious heritage of our state. These living
monuments are the grand examples of
the legacy of the art and must be prese-
rved for the coming generations to peep
into their rich past and glorious heritage.

(PlJbMsJted In o.Ily Excelsior, 771& Kashrdf nmeS,

JMrmu,Aug26, 2012IMan;It, f7. 2013)

20
Books written by Dr. J. S. Sarna
Shabad Nama - 1980
Mainu De Deo - 1982
PraUbimb - 1987
Sach ki KaU - 1990 (Fif1lt Prize By Jammu
Kashmir Academy)
Sahej - 2009
Nama-e-Jasbir Singh - 2015
Sikh Itlhaas, Vigyan, Chlntan, Sahll and
Kosh
Jammu Kashmir Di Sikh Twareekh - 1997
(Fif1lt Prize By Punjab Govt)
Baaznama (Sikh Students Fedreshan di
Tawareekh)- 1998. 2000. 2010
Teghzhan Guru Hargobind Sahib - 2001
Guru Har Ral Sahib - 2002
Guru Har Krishan Sahib - 2003
Jammu Kashmir De ltihasik Gurdware- 2005
Sikh ltihas De Mudle Pharsi Ate
Urdu srot - 2008
Kashmir De Junglee Phul - 1998
Jammu Kashmir De Anokhe Panchi
Ate Junglee Jeev - 2007
Moulik Pairan Sirjda Sikh Itihas-2009. 2015
Kesar Da Phul - 1990
Sikh Chintan - 1994
Ik Mehak Da Safamama - 2001
Sahitakdhara - 2001
Sri Guru Granlh Sahib Vichle Pashu-Panchi
Te Banaspati Sanketan Da Kosh - 2007
 Sri Guru Granth Sahib Mool Sankalp Kosh
-2012
Sri Guru Granth Sahib Vichle Lokdharai
Sanketan Da Kosh - 2012
Baksh Rachnavali (S) - 2013, 2015
Gurdwara Kosh - 2013
Punjabi Virasat Kosh - 2013
Guru Har Gobind Sahib de Lasani Sikh-2014
Sabat Surat Dastar Sira - 2014
Jeevani Patshahi Salvin Te Athvin - 20t5
Sri Guru Granth Sahib : Viygianic Visha -
Kosh -2016
Sardar Hari Singh Nalva: Waran Te
Jungname - 2016
English Sikh History, Religion, Bibliography,
Dictionaries
The Sikhs in Kashmir-1993
The Sikh Shrines in Jammu and Kashmir-
1994,2014
History of Sikh Students Federation - 1995 ,
Flora and Fauna in Guru Nanak's Bani1992
A Select Bibliography of the Kashmir 2002
World Punjabi Writers Who's Who - 2004
Some Precious Pages of the Sikh History-
2011
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