PER F U

SCIENCE
M E

Experiment Manual
Warnings for Parents and Supervising Adults
Caution! Some components in this kit have sharp points, edges, or corners. They
may cause injury. Always store this experiment kit in a cool place that is inacces-
sible for small children. Always close containers tightly and keep them away from
sources of ignition or open flames (e.g. candles). Do not smoke.

The right to technical changes is reserved. Before beginning, please refer to the
list of contents and make sure that all parts are included.

Safety Warnings!

Warning!
Only for use by children 10 years of age or older. Must be used only with the
supervision of adults who have familiarized themselves with the safety informa-
tion in this manual.

Caution!
Never bring the undiluted perfume oils into contact with any part of the body.
Only the finished perfumes made according to specifications in this manual are
suitable for application to the skin and the exterior of the body.
All liquids are unsuitable for consumption and have been mixed with a bitter addi-
tive (denatonium benzoate) to counter accidental ingestion.
Read the instructions before use, follow them, and keep them ready for reference.
Do not bring perfume oils, the finisher Finalo, the finished perfumes or perfumed
materials in contact with eyes, mouth, or other mucous membranes.
Keep small children and animals away during experimentation.
Store the experiment kit box out of reach of small children.

3rd Edition, Franckh-Kosmos Verlags-GmbH & Co. KG, Stuttgart, Germany/2004

This work, including all its components, is copyright protected. Any use, outside the specific limits of the copyright law, without
the consent of the publisher is prohibited and punishable under law. This applies specifically for reproductions, translations and
microfilming and the storage and processing in electronic systems. We do not guarantee that all material in this work is free
from other copyright or other protection.

2004 Franckh-Kosmos Verlags-GmbH & Co. KG, Stuttgart, Germany

Concept and professional consultation: SYNIDEA GmbH, Hamburg Fragrance creation: drom fragrances international Layout:
in cooperation with eStudio Calamar, Frido Steinen-Broo, Mambotel Graphics and Creation: BOOKS & MORE, Monika Zilliken,
Hnstetten Illustrations: Fr BilderKiste, Hnstetten: Peter Beckhaus, Beckhaus-design, Mainz; Sofia Flandergarn-Reichert,
Salzgitter Photos: bodacolor, Robert Sloboda, Rdesheim for BilderKiste, Hnstetten; AKG, Archiv fr Kunst und Geschichte,
Berlin; BilderKiste; Ingrid Diersen; drom fragrances international, Baierbrunn; pro-studios, Michael Flaig, Stuttgart; KOSMOS-
Archiv/Werth-Design

2nd Edition, English Translation, Thames & Kosmos LLC. Portsmouth, RI 02871
2004, 2008 English Translation, Thames & Kosmos LLC.
Thames & Kosmos is a registered trademark of Thames & Kosmos LLC.
Translation: Lise & Jens Kure-Jensen
Layout and Production: Ted McGuire, Dan Freitas
Editing: Jed Wilcox, Christa Cronin

Printed in Germany/Imprim en Allemagne

KIT CONTENTS

3 4 5
2 6
10
1 11

7 13 12
8 14
9

15

17
16
19
20
18

Sh
No. Description Qty. Part No. op
p
List ing
Additional Items
Basic Perfume Oils (10 ml)
1 "Lemony" 1 770 420 You may need some of the following
2 "Woody" 1 770 421 items to complete some of the experiments
3 "Flory" 1 770 422 and projects. Please read each experiment
4 "Musky" 1 770 423 before starting it, and make sure you have all
of the items you will need for that particular
Creative Perfume Oils (10 ml) experiment.
5 "Tropica" 1 770 424
Common tools from around the house:
6 "Orienta" 1 770 425
Scissors, Pencil, Ruler, Spoons, Cups, Knife,
7 "Mentha" 1 770 426 Paper towels, Book (old and heavy), Cooking
8 "Mella" 1 770 427 pots (large and small), Jelly jars with lids (2),
Markers or watercolors, Bowl or small plate,
9 "Finalio" 1 770 412 Sewing thread, Sewing needle, Sewing pins,
10 Flacon, 10 ml capacity 1 701 360 Knitting needle, Cotton or nylon thread,
Teaspoon, Cloth (silk or cotton), Large plate
11 Cap for Flacon 1 701 362
12 Atomizer 1 701 361 Common materials from around the house:
13 Cap for Atomizer 1 701 800 Paper, Cotton pads or balls, Construction paper,
14 Dropper Pipette 2 232 134 Aluminum foil, Water (hot and cold), Thick
15 Measuring Cup 2 065 099 Cardboard, Coffee filter, Small plastic bags
16 Lid for Measuring Cup 2 061 160
Special materials you may need to buy:
17 Stirrer 2 700 831 Yogurt (two different fruit flavors), Chamomile
18 Funnel 1 700 364 tea bag, Peppermint tea bag, Vegetable
19 Mini Flacon, shortening or soft margarine, Fragrant rose
2 ml capacity 4 701 760 petals (from florist or market), Lavender
flowers (from florist or craft store), Flowers
20 Cap for Mini Flacon 4 701 801
or flower petals (fresh roses, carnations, etc),
21 Labels 1 701 790 Dried herbs, Chamomile flowers, Dried lemon
peel
The right to technical alterations is reserved.

1
 INTRODUCTION FOR PARENTS AND
ADULT SUPERVISORS

Fascination with Fragrances listed the exact composition of all

This experiment kit gives your child the eight perfume oils and the finisher so that
opportunity to explore the fascinating you can be aware of all the contents.
world of fragrances and smells through This kit is an outstanding cosmetic
experiments with perfume oils. By doing product with respect to customer informa-
this, children will learn about the chemical tion and manufacturers responsibility,
characteristics of perfumes and the physi- because the safety and health of your child
ology of smell. are especially important to all of us.
Children will get a peek behind the
walls of the perfume industry and discover Basic Rules and Advice
how perfume designers work, what per- You and your children are about to enter
fumes are made of, and how fragrances into a fascinating area of chemistry. Even
can be obtained from natural substances. though the procedures are simple, we
Together, you and your child will discover would like to provide you with a founda-
the exciting world of fragrances. tion for safe experimentation so that you
can avoid possible dangers.
Safety Tested and Certified Please leaf through this manual and
For a kit that contains perfume oils and pay special attention to the Ground
perfume finishing solution, you probably Rules (next page) as well as the First Aid
have questions about safety. This kit was information (back cover). Select the ex-
designed in Germany and thus satisfies the periments that you find suitable for your
strict European safety standards for toys. child. We have included safety and first
More specifically, it satisfies the safety aid advice that is standard for a chemistry
requirements according to the European set, even though some of those risks are
Safety Standard EN 71-4, as well as US extremely unlikely to present themselves
safety standards. These standards contain given the contents of this kit. It is impor-
obligations for manufacturer and require tant that your child learn to experiment
that parents or adults supervise their chil- responsibly and have insight into possible
dren when using the kit. dangers. The field of chemistry is broad,
and perhaps your child will venture into
Highest Quality Cosmetics other areas of chemistry in the future.
The components of the kit were carefully Discuss the safety advice with your
selected to provide your child with the child before starting the experiments. You
best experience, in terms of both play and will find advice for setting up your lab
learning. The perfume oils were put to- area and using your equipment on the
gether by experienced perfume designers following pages. During experiments with
and will not give unpleasant results in any hot water, heed the required fire and burn
conceivable mixing ratios. safety. Please store the kit and all its com-
Your child can create his or her own ponents away from heat and open flames.
custom fragrance from the perfume oils Tell you child specifically that he or
provided. The perfume oils, and therefore she must read all safety rules, follow them
also the finished perfumes, have excellent and have them ready for reference, and
skin compatibility and meet the European that only the experiments described in the
Standard for Child Cosmetics. manual may be conducted.
However, as for all cosmetic products, You should select a suitable place for
an allergic reaction or a non-intended ap- your work area. Spilled liquids may leave
plication cannot be totally excluded. In the spots, so make sure that these will not
tables on the inside back cover, we have cause damage to furniture or floors.
2
Ground Rules for
Experiments with Fragrances

Read These Rules > 9. Clean your work area carefully

Before You Start after finishing the experiments, and wash
your hands thoroughly.
All of the experiments described in this > 10. Store the original perfume oils, Fi-
manual can be performed safely when nalio, and the finished perfumes in sealed
you follow the advice and directions. Al- containers, out of reach of small children.
though you are dealing with rather harm- > 11. Store the experiment kit box
less liquids in this kit, you should always out of reach of small children. Make
work with precision and care, like a real sure it is not stored near sources of heat,
perfumer. such as room heating components.
> 12. Do not eat, drink, or smoke
> 1. Read the directions before begin- while experimenting. Do not use any
ning any experiment, follow them, and eating, drinking, or other kitchen utensils
have them ready for reference. Note the for your experiments, except where spe-
quantities and the sequence of the indi- cifically recommended.
vidual steps. Perform only the experiments When experimenting with chemical
described in this manual. substances, including perfume oils, one
> 2. Keep small children and ani- cannot avoid products that involve certain
mals away from the experiments and lab risks if handled improperly. The Finalio
area. contained in your kit is ranked as a dan-
> 3. While working with the perfume gerous substance. It is marked with the
oils, Finalio and the finished perfumes, official danger symbol F (for flammable),
be careful not to get the liquids in which you will find on the label. For Fina-
your eyes, mouth, or on other mucous lio and the two perfume oils Lemony and
membranes. Be especially careful when Musky, R- and S-statements apply (R stands
testing the perfumes. for risk, S stands for safety). It is important
> 4. Avoid splashing the liquids when that you are well informed about the sub-
working with them. stances you will be working with. See the
> 5. Do not use any equipment next page for specific information.
other than what was supplied with Caution! For all liquids, the safety
the kit or specifically recommended in the statements S 1 and 2 apply: Store well
instructions. sealed and out of reach of children. This
> 6. Do not apply the diluted per- means specifically small children, but also
fumes to any clothing without first older ones who may not have been appro-
testing it on an unexposed part of the priately advised by their parents.
cloth to make sure the perfume does not
discolor the cloth. It is okay to apply the
diluted perfume to your skin after you
have checked to see that you are not al-
lergic to any of the ingredients the inside
back cover of this manual.
> 7. Never spray your perfume with
the atomizer over an open flame.
> 8. Clean all containers with deter-
gent soap after use. Close all bottles care-
fully so that nothing can leak out, and put
them back at their spots in the kit box.

3
 Important Information
about Dangerous Substances

Proper Waste Disposal Safety First: How to Play it Safe

As you can see from the warning state- Always read the instructions carefully be-
ments R 50/53, large quantities of the fore every experiment:
perfume oils should never be poured > Use only materials that are listed in
down the drain. Always put perfume oil the instructions. It is pointless and can
waste into the garbage can. Finalio can even be dangerous to experiment with un-
be poured into the sink when it is diluted known materials.
with lots of water. > Be extremely careful with hot stove
burners and open flames. Never perform
International Nomenclature of experiments near them, unless it is spe-
Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) cifically called for, and always have adult
The components of cosmetic substances, supervision.
including perfumes, are designated by > Make sure nobody smokes while you
INCI-names. INCI is the abbreviation for work.
International Nomenclature of Cosmetic > Spills should be wiped up immediately
Ingredients, and it is accepted internation- with a paper towel, and the paper towel
ally for such substances. This have given disposed of properly in a trash can.
uniform designations for the ingredients, > Handle the glass containers, for ex-
which in many cases do not correspond ample the flacons, carefully. If something
with the chemical designations or those should break, put it in the garbage can, so
used in the pharmacy. This is why we have that nobody can cut himself or herself.
described the liquids with both designa-
tions (you will find the precise composition
of the perfume oils and Finalio on the in-
side back cover of this manual.

Preventing Accidental Ingestion

The liquids in this kit all contain a bitter
additive (denatonium benzoate), which
children will immediately reject and spit
out, in order to prevent accidental swal-
lowing.

Warning Statements

Finalio (Main component: ethanol, ethyl alcohol 70%), F.

R 11: Easily flammable. S 7: Keep container tightly closed. S
16: Keep away from sources of ignition do not smoke.
Flammable
Lemony R 22: Harmful if swallowed. R 50/53: Very toxic
for water organisms, can have long lasting, damaging ef-
fects in waterways. Harmful
to health
Musky R 53: Can have long lasting, damaging effects in
waterways. Harmful
to the
The other oils do not have Risk or Safety statements. environment

4
YOUR LABORATORY
AND YOUR TOOLS

Setting Up a Workspace Preparation

Preparing for your experiments prop-
You should set up your work area in a erly is very important. Nothing is more
quiet and well illuminated spot. The sur- disturbing than if you must go and find
rounding floor should be easy to clean up something in the middle of an experiment.
and safe for spills. The work surface should Check that you have all of the items that
be as steady as possible and have a surface you will need before beginning an experi-
that is easy to clean or is protected by a ment. You will find a complete shopping
large cover, such as a plastic desk cover. list on page 1.
Always work carefully and systematically
and take care not to spill anything, as it Smell Strips
might leave spots. Prepare small plastic You will need to prepare some smell
bags and paper towels so that you can strips, or test strips, for most of your
immediately throw away used materials experiments. These are simply long, thin
and wipe up spills. You can dispose of used strips of thick paper (blotting paper works
smell strips directly into a covered garbage best) onto which you can dab a small
container, and thus avoid having too many amount of perfume oil in order to smell it.
other smells in the air while you are try- There are small holes in the kit's tray for
ing to design perfumes. You will need a holding these strips upright.
pencil and paper for writing on the smell
strips or taking notes. Air out your work
area often, or work near an open window.
When you are done, do not forget to clean
up and wash your work area with a moist
paper towel and possibly a few drops of
soap.

Tools, Measurements
Prepare a lot of smell strips:
and Procedures You will need them.
Pipettes
You will need a pipette, Volumes
or dropper, for several The volume of the liquids for the ex-
experiments. You should periments is indicated in milliliters. The
practice using it ahead abbreviation is ml which means one thou-
of time. The drawing to sandth of a liter. You will use the small
the left shows how to measuring cups for these volumes.
use the pipette. When
you squeeze the upper Filtration
part, some air will escape. Filtration is a method used to separate
Dip the pipette into the solid material and fine particles from a liq-
liquid and release the pres- uid. To perform this, take a round coffee
sure. Liquid will rise into filter or cut a circular piece about 3 inches
the pipette. With a light wide from a normal coffee filter. Fold this
squeeze, you can now dis- round filter twice and put it in the funnel
pense liquid by the drop. as shown in the drawing on the next page.
Put a container under the tip of the funnel
5
 and pour the liquid detergent, shake it, and squirt it out. Rinse
that is to be filtered it with clean water and let it dry. Alterna-
carefully into the tively, you can also flush it with some Fina-
funnel. The solid lio that you have poured into a cup.
particles will be left
in the filter and the How to Open
liquid (the filtrate) the Dropper Bottles
will drip through.
The small dropper bottles in the kit have
Decanting childproof push-and-turn caps. The il-
Decanting is used as lustration to the right will show you how
another separation meth- these can be opened by simultaneously
od in our experiments. pushing and turn- *1- *1-
To do this, pour out the ing. After opening
liquid carefully so that it, tilt the little
the contained solid compo- bottle upside
nents that have settled on the down carefully.
bottom of the container will Wait a moment /1,
remain there. for a drop to
form. Then you
Flacons can dispense
A flacon (pronounced Fla-kon) the different
is a small, ornamental bottle with a tight liquids drop by
cap. When transferring your perfumes drop. Always
from a measuring cup into a flacon, use close the bottle
a funnel without a filter. Put the flacon immediately /""* /"
"-
under the funnel and pour the liquid care- after use.
fully into the funnel. Pour slowly so as not
to spill. What is the Dropper Insert?
The small mini flacons can best be The dropper insert allows you to propor-
filled using the pipette. Be sure that there tion the costly perfume oils accurately and
is space in the bottleneck, so that the air economically. The insert makes it easy for
can escape when you drip in the perfume. you to count the drops accurately. This is
important when you make your own per-
Cleaning the fumes.
Containers and In addition, the insert will keep the
Equipment liquid from spilling out if at some point a
perfume oil bottle should tip over. Conse-
Cleanliness is as important in the mak- quently, the dropper insert should never
ing of perfumes as in chemistry in general. be taken out.
Therefore, clean the used containers im-
mediately when you are done with the Labeling Your
experiments and before you put them Experiment Materials
back into the box. Warm water with a few
drops of detergent soap is sufficient. Rinse Some of the experiments that we pres-
with clean water afterwards and dry the ent to you will take some time to do. So
containers with a paper towel. After ex- that you can later be sure what is in each
periments with greasy or oily substances, container it is important that you label the
you may have to wash several times until containers with the date and description
the greasy film has disappeared. of the contents.
You must also flush the pipette thor- We have included special flacon labels
oughly after each use. To do this, fill it that you only need to write on and attach.
several times with water containing a little
6
ABOUT YOUR SENSE OF SMELL

Just about everything has a smell. And From the

smells are unavoidable. Practically all Nose to the
other sensory inputs can be avoided. You Brain
can close your eyes, you can turn off loud
music or plug your ears, you can avoid We recognize fragrances and smells and
touching something, and you can avoid store them in one of the most primitive
tastes by closing your mouth. But there is parts of the brain. Our nose and brain
one thing you cannot do: You cannot stop communicate almost instantaneously.
breathing and thus you cannot stop smell-
ing. So what do we smell? And how does The Physiology of Smell
our sense of smell work? When we breathe, small particles of fra-
grance are carried by the air into the nose
Our Complex Sense of and transported to the olfactory epi-
Smell thelium, a membrane that is located way
up in the nasal cavity under your brain.
Smells are generally a complex mix of dif- Olfactory (ohl-fak-te-ree) is a word that
ferent individual components. However, means relating to the sense of smell. In the
your nose can mostly tell you, based on olfactory epithelium (eh-pe-thee-lee-im),
a few elementary smells, whether a par- an area about the size of a quarter, there
ticular fragrance is a freshly brewed cup are more than 10 million olfactory (or
of peppermint tea or a recently peeled smelling) cells. Each of these cells has
orange. cilia, or microscopic hairs, on it. The cilia
Scientists working with smells esti- are sensitive to molecules in the air. In fact,
mate that we can detect between 4,000 the smelling cells are very specialized and
to 10,000 different fragrances and smells. different cells have evolved to sense differ-
But a human being's sense of smell is just ent smells. Scientists have identified over
average in comparison to the super special 20 different smelling cells.
smelling capability of some animals. When a fragrance molecule comes in
Humans could never equal the perfor- contact with the correct smelling cell for it,
mance of a hunting dog, whose smelling an electric impulse, or nerve signal, is re-
organ can sense the sweat on the feet of a leased which is passed on instantaneously
person even though they are covered with through the olfactory nerves to the
thick, recently washed socks inside heavy olfactory bulb. From there, the smelling
rubber boots. But even though our nose is
not that sensitive, it is receptive enough to
differentiate between innumerable smells
and their fine nuances.

SUPER DOGS HAVE SUPER NOSES!

When it comes to smelling, dogs are specialists
and surpass the smelling ability of human
beings by miles. They are especially superior to
us when it comes to smells that are important
for them, such as fatty acids, because these are
found in the scent of deer and other animals.
Fruits are irrelevant for dogs, and they do not
smell these any better than we do.

7
 Olfactory Tissue Olfactory Nerves
Limbic System

Brain

Olfactory
Bulb

Brain
Olfactory Stem
Smell Epithelium
(Smelling
Membrane)
Cilia Olfactory Olfactory
Cells Epithelium

1. 2.
THE PATH OF SMELLS CROSS SECTION OF THE OLFACTORY
On their way up the nose, fragrances EPITHELIUM
and smells reach the olfactory epithelium The smelling cells specialized cells for
(smelling membrane) and the smelling bulb. detecting smells are located here.

message is passed on to other parts of the You Can Learn to Smell

brain, especially to the limbic system. The olfactory cortex stores the incom-
The limbic system controls our moods ing smell, or smell pattern, like data
and feelings and also participates in a col- is stored in the database of a computer.
lection and management of long-term When you smell freshly baked bread for
memory. This is one of the reasons that we the first time and learn what it is, the
can remember smells so well. smell pattern is recorded in your olfac-
tory cortex. If the smell pattern of freshly
>
Did you know? About every other baked bread is already present in the data
month, a smelling cell dies and is replaced bank, the olfactory cortex will signal you
by a new one. when this smell is present again. In a way,
it will tell you here is some freshly baked
What Do I Smell Here? bread. Because this smell information al-
If the smell is strong enough, the message so brings back memories that were stored
will be passed on to a developmentally in the limbic system, the smell of the bread
younger part of the brain called the olfac- will probably be accompanied by certain
tory cortex. Its nerve cells translate the feelings. Your brain may make the connec-
impulses they receive from the olfactory tion that soon you will be enjoying a deli-
bulb into an identifiable impression of a cious piece of bread.
smell, such as a flowery fragrance or foul
odor. Without the olfactory cortex, we The more smells and associated memories
would have no conscious awareness of stored in the olfactory cortexs data bank,
smells. the more different smells and flavors you
can differentiate and define.
8
 YO
U ... that smelling and tasting
DID W..
O
always go together?
KN

For two different people who are describing the same thing, one might say,
That smells fishy to me, whereas the other might say, That leaves a bad taste in
my mouth. How is it that smells and tastes are so closely related? Anyone who has had
the sniffles knows how dull and uninteresting even the spiciest dish can taste because
the nose is plugged up and smelling is almost impossible. Everything we eat has a smell
and when we eat it, its smell is sent to the olfactory cells through the connection be-
tween our mouth and nose cavity.

Anyone who has once Smell Memory GAME:

come to know and Can You Win by a Nose?
enjoy the flavor of
fresh bread will have a Heres a fun game. Test your memory for
pleasant memory of it smells against that of your friend.
through the feeling and
impressions stored in > Materials from the kit: all 8 perfume
the limbic system. oils

> Additional materials: construction pa-

per, aluminum foil, scissors, pencil, ruler

Preparation
From the construction paper, cut 16
squares that are each 2 x 2 inches. From
the aluminum foil, cut 16 squares that are
each 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 inches. Put one of the
construction paper squares in the middle
of an aluminum foil square and bend
the protruding edges of the foil around
the construction paper. Do this for all 16

This special
version of the
classic memory
game can
be difficult
because your
nose quickly
loses its ability
to discern
smells when it
is overwhelmed
with
fragrances.
Taking short
breaks keeps
your nose in
the game!

9
 squares. Every small memory card will now Peach or Cherry?
have a paper side and a foil side. Testing Your Taste
Buds
Divide the 16 cards into eight pairs of
two. On the paper side of both cards of a Your sense of smell is very closely linked to
pair, place a few drops of your perfume your sense of taste. As soon as you clamp
oil. Similar to how visual memory games your nose, you will no longer be able to
work, there are two matching cards for tell whether you are eating a peach or
each perfume oil. To make sure that there cherry yogurt.
is no conflict during the game whether the
correct pair of smells has been found, you > Materials: one each of a yogurt with
should write the name of the perfume oil peach and cherry flavor (you can also use
on the paper hidden under the foil. other fruit flavors), 2 spoons

The Game The Game

The 16 cards are put down with the paper Close your eyes and clamp your nose firmly
side down. The object of the game is to with your fingers. Breathe only through
find the matching pair of fragrances by your mouth. For the test, let a friend serve
turning two cards over at a time, and sniff- you a spoonful of the peach-flavored yo-
ing. gurt and then a spoonful of the cherry yo-
gurt to taste. Make a bet whether you can
In each turn, the player can turn two cards. tell the two flavors apart. Can you?
Anyone finding a matching pair should let
it lie paper side up, and can then select two > How can this be? While our sense of
more cards. If two cards are turned and smell is very sensitive, our sense of taste is
are not a pair, they should be placed back much simpler. While we have at least 20
in their spots foil side up, and it is the next smell receptors, we only have five known
players turn. taste sensors, which are classified as: sour,
salty, bitter, sweet, and umami. The latter
> A tip: To store the game, put the smell is Japanese and means delicious tasting.
pairs with the perfumed sides towards In the umami category, we can recognize
each other, and place them all into a plastic sodium glutamate, which is used to amplify
bag. the taste of foods. In contrast to our 10
million smell sensing cells, we only have ap-
proximately 300,000 taste sensing cells.

> A tip: Large pieces of fruit make it easier

to recognize what taste it is a cherry has
a different texture than a piece of peach.

Is it peach or is it cherry? In
this test make sure that there
are no pieces of fruit on the
spoon to tip off the taster.

10
Five Millennia of Perfumes
And Sweet Smells

Its natural to want to be in an environ- complained more about the rationing of

ment that smells pleasant, and move away the costly creams and oils than about hav-
from unpleasant smelling ones. In the ing short supplies of corn and flour.
same way, we want to smell appealing,
and certainly not offensive, to other peo- Ancient Mediterranean
ple. For thousands of years, people have The Greeks and Romans loved to surround
altered the scents of their environments themselves with precious fragrances. They
and their bodies with chemicals derived took baths in perfumed water, cared for
from smells found in nature. their hair with perfume oils, and massaged
As perfume designers will tell you, their bodies with fragrant creams. Even
perfume is like art for the nose just like a food and beverages were perfumed. No
painting is art for the eyes, fine cuisine for elaborate celebration would be complete
the palate, and music for the ears. Just like without a wine spiced with roses, violets,
these other art forms, perfume has a long cinnamon, or even lavender or vermouth.
history.
Arabia and Venice
The History of Between the eighth and tenth centuries,
Perfumes the Arabs discovered new methods for
the distillation and making of perfumes.
For as long as history has been recorded, They created new fragrance mixtures by
fragrances have been used for healing, combining fruits, flowers, and spices with
personal hygiene, allure, and religious cer- animal substances like musk, amber, and
emonies. civet.
The first perfumes were made ap-
proximately 5,000 years ago by high
priests in Mesopotamia. Aromatic plants,
spices, or sweet smelling resins (tree saps)
were burned to please the gods and to
drive away illnesses. These ancient people
learned that balsams and resins would
release their aromas most intensely when
heated. From this comes the term per-
fume that is derived from the Latin term
per fumum, which means through
smoke.

Perfumes in Egypt
At about the same time, the priests in
Egypt also used the mysterious effects of
fragrances. They can probably be consid-
ered the first true perfumers. They made
perfumed creams and oils that were sold
to rich worshipers. At the time of King
Ramses II (13th century B.C.), men applied MERIT'S COSMETIC BOX
cosmetics and perfume with the same en- This box belonged to the wife of a building
thusiasm as did women. Creams and per- contractor in Thebes, and contains several
fume oils were in such demand that, for bottles for fragrant oils (1411-1375 B.C.).
example, during an economic crisis, people
11
 U
YO ...that the Ancient Romans were
Did W...
KN
O fanatics for fragrances and baths?

In ancient Rome, anyone who could afford it would only bathe in perfumed
water. The Roman thermal baths could be compared to the present day beauty salons.
The demand for fragrant substances was enormous in Rome. It is known, for example,
that in Emperor Neros time (37-68 A.D.), rooms were not only ventilated but also given
fragrance via silver piping.

In the 15th century, perfumes and the Grasse The Cradle

knowledge of how to make them arrived of Perfume Making
in Europe from the Middle East via the Since the Middle Ages, the costly raw
ocean trading routes. Most of them came materials that were required for the mak-
through the wealthy and powerful city of ing of high quality perfumes were grown in
Venice, Italy. The Italians improved the art Grasse, in the South of France. This region
of distillation, thought of new recipes, and is still one of the most important centers
supplied the rest of Europe with precious of the fragrance industry even today. The
fragrances. climate and the soil were and still are ideal
for growing the flowers and plants re-
In 1533, Catherine of Medici from Flor- quired for the extraction of fragrances.
ence, Italy, married the future king of
France, Henry II. She brought the fine In addition, Grasse was the center for
cuisine and the modern perfumery of Italy the leather industry at that time. Leather
to her new country. In her time, perfume- was perfumed to cover up its slightly
scented gloves were very much in style, unpleasant smell. Gloves, clothes, shoes,
and anybody who wanted to be recog- paper, and furniture were perfumed. Over
nized in the royal court would time, as leather crafts began to generate
have to wear a pair. less and less profit, many tanning shops
switched to making perfumes. Perfumers
and glove makers even joined in one guild.
Right: Roman glass flacon
in the shape of a date Different Times,
(first-second century A.D.). Different Smells
Below: Greek cream jar
(500-520 B.C.) Bad and unpleasant smells were consid-
ered to be the cause of dangerous child-
hood diseases for many years. This was
not quite correct, but not entirely wrong
either. Bacteria are actually the cause of
some of these diseases, not the bad smell
that the bacteria produce. Even today, an
experienced doctor might be able to diag-
nose an illness based on the smell of the
patient.

Before people came to the common un-

derstanding that cleanliness and hygiene
were important for staying healthy, wash-
ing was considered dangerous. This is
because it was widely observed that fruit
12
 and meat rotted and went foul when
they were moist. In dry conditions, such as
dried fruit and meat, they remained ed-
ible for many years and did not have an
unpleasant smell. Therefore, until the 19th
century, humidity and smell were taken
as causes for illnesses. Frequent contact
with water was avoided for fear of getting
infected. Cleansing with clean towels was
preferred to washing with water, and very
powerful body odors were treated with
perfumed powders and sweet smelling
washcloths.

Steps into the Present

In the 19th century, thanks to the sci-
entist Louis Pasteur (1822-1895), it was
realized that it was not smells that made
people ill, but rather microscopic living
things, such as bacteria, that often caused
the foul smells. People discovered that
these could be defeated through cleanli-
ness and hygiene. The stench in the cities During outbreaks of the plague, medieval
doctors protected themselves from illness
was reduced as soon as the sewers were
and infection with masks and smoke.
put underground. From that point on, per-
fumes were not needed to protect against
stench and smells that made people ill, but came into play. Why? A single plant pro-
for enhancing the personal impression. duces only a small amount of fragrant oil.
For example, to produce one kilogram of
Perfume a Costly Commodity rose oil, the almost inconceivable quantity
Perfume has always been a luxury item. of one ton of rose petals is required. Its no
In limited supply and therefore expensive, wonder that even today, relatively small
at one time perfume was only for the rich amounts of natural essences cost thou-
and privileged. That is, until chemistry sands of dollars.

YO
U ... once upon a time, people would wear
Did W... perfume to avoid taking a bath?
O
KN

The Sun King, Louis XIV (1638 1715) of France, could also
have been called the perfume king, because he loved perfumes
above anything else. He decided on the fragrance of his court ac-
cording to his mood. Ladies as well as gentlemen powdered and
colored their hair, blemishes were hidden with beauty tape, and a
heavy layer of paste beautified the complexion. The most important
item in the court was the perfume bottle. This stands to reason be-
cause the smell in the royal palace in Versailles must not have been
very agreeable: There were no toilets or bathrooms and the washba-
sins were no larger than a soup bowl. On top of that, large amounts
of water were considered unhealthy. To please the nobility and
cover up the smell, perfume and powder were used obsessively.

13
 In the past, perfumes were costly luxuries. Fragrance is Everywhere
Madam de Pompadour (1721-1764), the The perfume and flavor industry is grow-
lady of Louis XV of France, spent a giant ing more and more every year. The fine
sum equivalent to $220,000 on perfumes. fragrance industry collectively takes in tens
of billions of dollars per year.
Thanks to science, today it is possible to
make many fragrances in the laboratory Fragrance formulas cannot be specifically
at much lower costs. They are not only patented in the United States, but the
less costly, but the number of basic fra- brand names and labels put on them can
grances continues to increase. Madam be protected by trademarks. Still, fra-
Pompadours court perfumer could grance formulas are heavily guarded
choose between about 200 fragranc- secrets.
es. Today, master-perfumers have
more than 25,000 fragrances avail- Hundreds of new perfumes are intro-
able to them for their creations. The duced every year, and an even larger
possibilities are almost unlimited. number of new fragrance products
are designed and marketed each
Artificial Noses year. This is not all that surprising
Thanks to new technologies, because fragrances are found
perfumers can analyze and in thousands of products, not
produce almost endless num- just perfumes. Fragrances are
bers of fragrances. With the added to face creams, hand
help of a computer equipped creams, body lotions, soaps,
with an artificial nose it is pos- hair care products, bathing
sible to capture the essence salts, detergents, disinfectants,
of a waterfall, of a warm sum- and deodorants.
mer night, or of a fresh and salty
ocean breeze. With this tool, one Fragrances are also found in our
cannot only discover what substances such environments, consciously chosen to make
complex smells are composed of, but also places and experiences more pleasant. In
synthesize them correctly. This is because the supermarket, you may smell a fresh
the artificial nose recognizes all fragrance lemon essence, the gas station smells like
components of an object be it a flower, fresh coffee instead of gasoline, in the
a plant, a piece of plastic, an automobile, hotel there is a fragrance of vanilla and
or whatever. sandalwood, and a new car smells like a
new car. Have you experienced these? Fra-
grances affect feelings and moods, so we
are often emotionally influenced by our
noses. Thus, its reasonable that we will
want to go to places where it smells nice
and we feel good.

The number of
fragrances for sale
today is enormous.
There is a perfume
for everyone.

14
 How Does the Fragrance
Get into the Bottle?

This is an interesting question because The fragrances you will extract by yourself
smells are almost always ephemeral, or are not intended to be applied to the skin.
short-lived. To catch them and process But they can be used to apply fragrance to
them is a real art which can be very excit- several materials. You must never extract
ing. By now, scientists have established anything from sachets, potpourris, or in-
that what we most often perceive as fra- dustrially perfumed materials!
grances are light evaporating ethereal oils.
Brewing Fragrances
The word ethereal comes from the Greek in the Kitchen
word aither for upper air, and means
heavenly or delicate. In nature, ethereal The oldest and simplest way of extracting
oils play an important biological role. For fragrant material from plants is to brew
example, they provide a source of infor- them by boiling them in water, similar to
mation for insects, and a protective shield how tea is prepared. You have probably
for some plants. already sniffed the strong aroma of fresh
peppermint tea.
How a Fragrance
is Captured >Materials from the kit: 2 measuring
cups with lids
If you were to ask a chemist what perfume
is, he may answer: Perfume is a water- >Additional materials: boiling water,
alcohol solution of perfume oils from veg- 2 cups, 1 bag of peppermint tea, 1 bag of
etable, animal, and/or synthetic origin. chamomile tea
This is a fine definition, but how do the
perfume oils get into this water-alcohol Experiment
solution? 1. Heat the water in a pot or kettle. Let
your parents help you with this.
>Warning: In the following experi- 2. Brew one cup each of strong pepper-
ments, use only the specifically recom- mint tea and chamomile tea. Let the teas
mended plant parts for your experiments. cool off some.

U ...how to tell when a perfume

YO is really a perfume?
Did W...
O
KN
Most fragrances are offered in various concentrations. The difference in
price can be enormous, depending on the differences in concentration
and alcohol content of the fragrant liquid.

Trade Name Concentration of Perfume Oil (%)

"Perfume" more than 22%
"Eau de Parfum" 15-22%
"Eau de Toilette" 8-15%
"Cologne" less than 5%

15
 3. Fill the first measuring cup with pep- Extracting
permint tea and the second with chamo- Fragrances with Fat
mile tea and seal both measuring cups
with their lids. Another old method of fragrance extrac-
4. Let the cups sit for a couple of tion is the enfleurage [French, fleur =
minutes. Then remove the lid from the flower]. In this method, fragrances are
measuring cups and sniff the tea. Can you extracted from plants with the help of
smell the difference between the teas animal fat, such as pork lard. A sheet of
even with your eyes closed? glass with a wooden frame is greased with
fat. Flower petals are pressed lightly onto
> Why is this? When they are heated, the glass. The fat extracts the fragrant
the ethereal oils from the peppermint and material from the plant over the next few
the chamomile are dissolved in the water, days. This process is repeated until the fat
and the released fragrant oils can evapo- can no longer absorb any more fragrance.
rate. Unfortunately, the heat of the water The fat is saturated, as a perfume chem-
will partly damage the ethereal oils, so ist would say.
some of the fragrant material is lost. This
method is therefore no longer used to ex- The resulting fat and fragrance mixture is
tract fragrant material. called concrte [French, se concreter = to
become thick, firm]. Then, the flour oils
1. are extracted from the fat with the help of
alcohol. After that, the alcohol is evapo-
rated, and the result is a clean ethereal oil
called absolue [French, absolu = chemi-
cally clean, pure].

>
Materials from the kit: Finalio,
measuring cup

> Additional materials: Vegetable

shortening (e.g. Crisco), fragrant rose
petals (rosa centifolia) or lavender flowers
(lavendula officinalis) from the florist or
When brewing tea, you are using the market, corrugated cardboard, aluminum
simplest and oldest way of extracting foil, knife, scissors, pencil, ruler, paper tow-
fragrances. In addition to the fragrances, el, an old book (weighing about 1 kg, or 2
the hot water also dissolves color and bitter lbs), small pots, water, jelly jar with lid
material from the plant parts. Compare the
colors: left peppermint and right chamomile. Preparation
1. Cut two pieces of cardboard, each
about 4 x 4 inches.
2. Wrap a suitably-sized piece of alumi-
2. num foil tightly all the way around these.
The cardboard must be covered by foil on
both sides. All excess foil must be folded
onto one side.

F
As soon as you lift the lid, you also uncover Warning Statement
the secret. In which of the two cups is the
Finalio is flammable. Observe the
peppermint and in which is the chamomile?
information of page 4.

16
 2.

1. Just like with a

real enfleurage, you
This is how you prepare the can use alcohol (in our
enfleurage: spread fat on cardboard case, the Finalio-water
covered with aluminum foil, and then mixture) to extract some of the
press rose petals into the fat. rose fragrance from the fat.

Experiment: Part 1 Experiment: Part 2

1. On each foil-covered cardboard 1. Ask your parents for help with this.
piece, spread a layer of fat no thicker than 2. Put the fat-fragrance mixture in a
1/4 inch thick on the smooth foil side. small pot.
2. Press the rose petals (or lavender 3. Fill a larger pot halfway full of water
flowers) tightly together onto the fat. and put the small pot inside it.
3. Put the two pieces of cardboard to- 4. Heat the two pots carefully on a
gether like a sandwich with the layer of stove set to low heat, until the fat has
fat and rose petals in the middle. melted and become a liquid.
4. Put the sandwich on a double 5. Remove it from the heat and let the
sheet of paper towel, and wrap the paper mixture cool a little.
towel around it. 6. After it has cooled a little, but is still
5. Put the heavy book on top of it. liquid, transfer the fat into a glass jelly jar.
6. After one week, check your en- 7. Make a mixture of 10 ml (2 tea-
fleurage. Exchange the old flower petals spoons) Finalio and 30 ml (1/8 cup) water.
with new ones, and let the fat extract the 8. Pour the mixture into the jar of fat.
oils from the petals for one more week. 9. Put the lid on the jar, and let the mix-
7. After the second week, your fat-fra- ture stand in a warm spot for a week.
grance mixture, or concrte, is ready. 10. Shake it every now and then.
8. Remove the petals from the concrte, 11. Now test the fragrance. The Finalio-
and sniff the remaining fat. Does it smell? water mixture should smell lightly of roses.
Now you can use the mixture for the next You have successfully separated out the
experiment fragrant oils.

... which parts of plants

U expensive fragrances come from?
YO
Did W...
O
KN Plant ParT Fragrance
Flower petals Rose, Jasmine, Tuberose, Narcissus, Bitter Orange
Leaves, stems Geranium, Peppermint, Sage, Thyme, Bitter Orange
Grasses Tarragon
Roots Iris, Angelica
Mosses Oak Moss
Wood Sandalwood, Rosewood, Cedar wood
Needles Spruce, Pine, Cypress
Resin Myrrh, Oleoresin (incense)
Seeds Cardamom, Pepper
Fruit pits Anise, Nutmeg, Coriander
Fruit rinds Bitter Orange, Lemon, Bergamot

17
 Capturing Fragrances Experiment
with Steam 1. Put one measuring cup of lavender
flowers into a jelly jar.
The steam distillation process was de- 2. Add 10 ml (2 teaspoons) of Finalio
veloped in Persia and Arabia in the Middle and 30 ml (1/8 cup) water.
Ages. This process is used to extract pre- 3. Stir well, and cover the jar with the
cious oils from plants with the help of lid and let it steep in a cool place.
super heated steam. The hot steam opens 4. After about one week, open the jar
the plant cells. The oils are released and and check the fragrance. If it is too light,
are carried away from the plants by the exchange the used flowers with new ones
steam. The steam cools into water, and the and let it all stand for one more week.
oils are simply separated from the water. 5. Fold a circular piece of filter paper to
form a cone and put it in the funnel.
Extracting with Liquids 6. Pour the liquid slowly through the
funnel into the second clean jelly jar.
A method that is still used almost every- 7. Alternatively, you can decant the ex-
where for fragrance extraction is called tract into another jar.
solvent extraction (Latin, extrahere 8. Add another measuring cup of new
= extract). This process was developed flowers to it, stir and close the glass.
about 200 years ago. Fresh plant parts 9. When you are satisfied with the fra-
are ground up and covered with a warm grance, pour the mixture carefully through
solvent that evaporates easily. This is re- a filter into a clean measuring cup and
peated until the remaining liquid is totally close it tight with the lid.
saturated with ethereal oils from the 10. Label the measuring cup.
plants. After, the solvent is totally evapo- 11. With the help of the pipette, drip
rated from the extract. This process can some of your lavender extract onto the
be performed at modest temperatures be- cotton pad. The cotton pad will gradually
cause the solvent is easily evaporated. This release the pleasant lavender fragrance.
makes the method very gentle.
The leftover extract of this process is > Why does this happen? Fina-
a wax-like substance, because wax and lio will slowly dissolve the fragrant oils
color are also extracted from the plants in from the flowers because it contains an
addition to the fragrances. This substance alcohol called ethanol. Due to its chemi-
is also called concrte. After the wax is cal structure ethanol can dissolve grease
removed with some additional processing, compounds, or oils. In chemistry, this pro-
the purest version of the fragrance will ap- cedure is called extraction. By repeating
pear. This is again called absolue. the extraction process several times, the
The solvents used in this process must solvent (in this case Finalio) becomes more
be pure so that they can evaporate with- and more full of fragrant oils, until it final-
out any residue. Additionally, they must ly cannot absorb any more. This is called a
not change the nature of the fragrant saturated solution.
substances. Long ago, benzene was often
used as the solvent. Today, alkenes (like If you wait long enough,
butane or hexane) or alcohols (like metha- the Finalio-water
nol, ethanol, or toluene) are used. mixture will evaporate
slowly by itself, similar
> Materials from the kit: Finalio, 2 to how it is done with
measuring cups with lids, stirrers, funnel, the technical help of
pipette, cotton pad, labels. alcohol in professional
> Additional materials: lavender manufacturing. All that
will remain is the clean
flowers from the florist or craft store, 2
air tight closed old jelly jars, water, coffee fragrant oil.
filter, pencil
18
Where Do Fragrances
Come From?

Now you know how fragrances are cap- and can be rather strong, but diluted and
tured. But which fragrance sources are es- mixed with other fragrances, they add a
pecially important for making perfume? special touch to many perfumes. Today,
fragrances of animal origin are manufac-
Natural Sources: tured in chemical laboratories so that no
Flowers, Leaves, Roots animal must suffer for us to get access to
these fragrant materials: amber (a secre-
The majority of pleasurable fragrances are tion from sperm whales), castor (a secre-
derived from plants. Some examples of tion from the perineal glands of beavers),
these are listed on page 23. Interestingly, musk (a secretion derived from male musk
one of the most bountiful suppliers of oxen), civet (a secretion from civet cats).
fragrances is the orange tree. We derive
neroli (orange blossom) from its flowers, Synthetic Sources:
orange oil from orange peels, and pe- From the Test Tube
titgrain (citrusy and woody smell) from
its leaves and twigs. All three of these are Nowadays, chemists can synthesize almost
bases for many familiar perfumes. any fragrance in the laboratory. This prac-
tice began in 1856 with the discovery of
Natural Sources: cinnamic aldehyde, the main ingredi-
From Animals ent in the flavor of cinnamon. In 1876,
two German scientists named Ferdinand
Fragrant materials from the animal king- Tiemann and Wilhelm Haarman succeeded
dom are also used by perfumers. Each in making vanillin, which is also an alde-
material by itself seldom smells very good hyde. Today, vanillin is used as a synthetic
substitute for natural vanilla in foods,
drinks, and perfumes.
Aldehydes are made from alcohols
from which some of the hydrogen is
removed. The research into aldehydes
caused a giant step forward in the manu-
facturing of fragrances. This is because all
aldehydes, especially those with fairly long
carbon chains, smell rather pleasant to our
noses.
The main advantages of artificially
derived fragrances as compared to natu-
ral aromatic oils are the generally lower
manufacturing cost, the consistent quality,
and the independence from weather and
time of year.
But despite the advantages of synthet-
ics, the great noses, as talented perfume
composers are often called, will only use
the natural versions.

THE ORANGE TREE A prolific and

multitalented source of fragrances.
19
 Recognizing, Analyzing,
and Categorizing Scents

In France, a perfumer is called le nez, > By the way, just like great wines, fra-
which means the nose. The nose is the grance creations must also have time to
most important tool in the craft, because age. Sometimes they are given up to three
the noses keen ability to smell and recog- months to mature. During this time they
nize fragrances is what allows a perfumer are checked repeatedly.
to create the most appealing fragrances.
The Fragrance
Normal people can distinguish about 4,000 Family Tree
different smells. But a good perfumer
has up to 10,000 fragrance elements in Fragrances can be organized into families.
his smell memory. The perfumer works A classic system was established according
to develop new perfumes by combining to the natural origin of the fragrances.
scents from hundreds of small bottles in Most fragrances are contained in the fol-
his lab, similar to how an artist paints a lowing family groups:
picture by combining pigments together
to form many different colors. Nowadays, > Floral fragrances: derived from flower
perfumes work with the help of a strong oils like rose, jasmine, elder, lily of the val-
knowledge in chemistry. With chemistry, ley, and tuberose.
it is now possible to separate natural fra- > Green fragrances: eucalyptus, pine,
grances into their individual components. citrus, lavender, rosemary, camphor, and
This allows perfumers to not only recon- basilica
struct natural fragrances, but also to in- > Animal fragrances: musk, civet, amber-
vent new ones. Only a perfumers nose can gris, castor
evaluate the fragrance elements and mix > Spicy and woody fragrances: oak
them together in the correct proportions moss, sandalwood, myrrh, cedar, cinnamon
to yield an exquisite fragrance. and clove bark

Nowadays perfumers are working with

even finer differentiations. The new system
includes fragrances of synthetic origin, such
as aldehydes. This is well illustrated in the
fragrance circle to the left.

A Perfume Evaporates
in Three Steps

Practically all great perfumes are compli-

cated mixtures of innumerable individual
components. Some are composed of more
than 700 natural or synthetic fragrances.

Classically composed perfumes release

their fragrances in three phases or steps:

The Head Note

is the first impression that you receive
The Fragrance Circle from the perfume. It lasts only for a few
minutes, and should evoke curiosity.
20
The Heart Note
also called bouquet, can only be per-
ceived some time after the application of
the perfume. It forms the fragrance charac-
ter of the perfume that can be sensed for
several hours.

The Base Note

also called fond, forms the founda-
tion on which the perfume is based. It al-
lows the fragrance to fade out pleasantly,
and can last as long as a whole day. This
note can only be sensed many hours after
application.

But there are also fragrances with a COCO'S CREATION

single fragrance note. Typical examples Chanel No. 5, the most famous perfume
of this are lavender or rose water. Both in the world, was first produced in 1921.
waters result as the by-products of steam It became not only the most successful
distillation of the fragrance oils themselves. fragrance creation, but was also the first
one to contain a fully synthetic material,
An additional group is called the lin- namely an aldehyde. It also contains natural
ear fragrances. For these perfumes, the ingredients: ylang-ylang flowers are the core
character of the fragrance does not change of the fragrance.
even over an extended period of time. The
fragrance stays on a single line.

Fragrance components
Head Notes
arranged in order of
Volatile fragrances
their volatility
that influence
the fragrance
impression for the
initial 15 minutes

Heart Notes
Fragrances that
are perceivable
for 3 to 4 hours

Base Notes
Fragrances that
can be perceived
even after 4 to 5
hours

21
 Training the Nose of a
Master Perfume Designer

Even Noses Need to and your brain have reached a

Take a Break kind of agreement. They have
combined all the various smells to-
Did you know that in a smelling test, after gether into one impression, rather
about five fragrances, the nose can hardly than many different impressions, and your
tell the difference and really needs a break nose stops reporting all of the individual
from sniffing? smells to the brain.

> Materials from the kit: all 8 per- Another example of this occurs when you
fume oils come into the kitchen in the morning. At
first, it smells like coffee or tea, bacon,
> Additional materials: smell strips and toast. But after a short time, you dont
(see page 5), pencil, paper even notice the smells anymore, because
your nose and brain have gotten used to
Experiment them. You can experience this in other
Before starting this experiment, spend places as well, such as the supermarket,
some time getting to know the smells of the movie theatre, or a friends house.
the eight fragrances in the kit. Do this well
ahead of time, such as the day before. yOUR uNIQUE nOSE
1. Prepare eight smell strips, and label
each with one of the eight perfume oil Now try to find out how your nose works
names, a little below the middle of the with your brain. To do this, conduct the
strip. following test with your friend and re-
2. Add one drop of the named perfume member to take good notes.
oil to each strip.
3. Put the strips with the fragrant side > Materials from the kit: all 8 perfume
up in the strip holders in the kit tray. oils
4. One by one, put each strip to your
nose and smell, without peeking at the > Additional materials: smell strips
name. (see page 5), pencil, notepaper
5. Write down what you smell on each
strip, keeping track of the order.
6. After you are finished testing all
eight strips, check to see if you guessed all
the smells correctly.
7. Repeat the test after about 30 min-
utes in a different sequence.
For both tests, you probably found
that you made a mistake with the last
few fragrances, even though the last few
fragrances were different each time. Why
could you distinguish certain fragrances
in the first test, and different ones in the
second?

>Why does this happen? After receiv-

ing many different fragrance impressions
one after the other, your smelling organ
22
Experiment > Materials from the kit: perfume oils
1. Put one or two drops of one of the
perfume oils on a smell strip. > Additional materials: smell strips
2. Sniff it very intensively and have your (see page 5), pencil, markers or watercolors,
friend do the same. paper
3. Write down what you smell and what
this fragrance reminds you of. It is quite Experiment
possible that your friend has a completely 1. Prepare some smell strips as in the
different memory from yours in connec- previous experiment.
tion with each of the smells. 2. Sniff a smell strip and draw or paint
4. Tell each other what the fragrance a picture, first in your head, then on pa-
meant to you and continue with the other per. Draw what you feel. It can be a single
fragrances. color, a shape, an abstract picture, or a
realistic scene.
> What is going on? The nose reports 3. Perhaps only one drop of a single
a fragrance to the limbic system in your fragrance is enough to evoke a complete
brain. This system will immediately deter- picture. If not, supplement the picture
mine what this fragrance means to you. If with the impression from additional drops
you have experienced this fragrance earlier, of fragrances, or draw a complete story of
your memory of it will be revived and you several pictures.
will know immediately what fragrance it
is or in which situation you have smelled it > A tip: If you do this experiment with a
before. For example, one fragrance reminds friend, you will probably have two totally
you of a sunny green meadow with cows. different pictures. But with some fragranc-
es, you may both paint the same picture be-
Painting Pictures cause you both associate a fragrance with a
with Fragrances similar memory.

Fragrances can help us recall memories. >By the way: You can also try this ex-
Now, lets use this knowledge for another periment with music. Sniff a fragrance and
experiment. think of a song that it reminds you of.

... how much plant material is needed

U to produce 1 kg of fragrant oil?
YO
Did W...
O
KN
From this much raw material... you get...
1,000 kg bitter orange flowers 1 kg neroli oil
700-1,000 kg rose flowers 1 kg rose oil
700-1,000 kg jasmine flowers 1 kg jasmine oil
700 kg geranium leaves 1 kg geranium oil
6 kg dried flower buds
from a clove tree 1 kg clove flower oil
1,000 kg bergamot fruit rind 1 kg bergamot oil
1,700 kg rind from sweet oranges 1 kg orange oil
3,000 kg rind from mandarins 1 kg mandarin oil
25 kg anise fruits 1 kg anise oil
50 kg dried pepper corns 1 kg pepper oil
75 kg juniper berries 1 kg juniper berry oil
12 kg cardamom seeds 1 kg cardamom oil
30 kg grated cedar wood 1 kg cedar oil
200 kg lemon grass 1 kg lemon grass oil
50 kg sage plant 1 kg sage oil This is what is leftover
500 kg pine needles 1 kg pine needle oil from 1,000 kilograms
20 kg myrrh bush 1 kg myrrh oil of rose petals after
extraction.

23
 Beginning Your Work
as a Perfumer

Basic and Creative Finalio The

Perfume Oils Fragrant Finish

You should now be somewhat familiar Professional perfumes and Eau de Toilettes
with the eight perfume oils in your kit. actually contain only a very small amount
Four of these are your Basic Perfume of concentrated perfume (usually 15-20%).
Oils, with which you will establish the Our perfume oils are already somewhat
basic fragrance note of your perfumes. diluted. You will also use Finalio, a kind
Their names all end with a y. The other of perfume finisher, to achieve the correct
four are Creative Perfume Oils, which concentration and give the perfume its
you can use for special impressions. Their final fragrant polish.
names all end with an a.
Finalio contains alcohol, which is highly
flammable. This changes the smell and
Basic Perfume Oils consistency of the perfume. Therefore,
add Finalio only at the end of your per-
name fragrance type fume creation. Add Finalio only when you
Flory Flowery are satisfied with your perfume and are
Woody Wood-like finished making adjustments.
Lemony Citrus-Fruity
Musky Spicy-Cool F
Warning Statement
Finalio is flammable. Observe the
Creative Perfume Oils information of page 4.
name fragrance type
Tropica Fruity Fragrance Impressions
Mentha Minty Change Over Time
Mella Spicy-Sweet
Orienta Spicy-Cool Perfumes need some time to unfold en-
tirely. First, you will smell the head note,
and only after about 15 minutes the heart
In general, you can mix any Basic Perfume note. This means that the first impression
Oil with one or more of the other and of a perfume can change significantly in
then add a completely unique direction a short time. Always wait a little while
to your composition with one or more of before you decide whether a fragrance
the Creative Perfume Oils. It is amazing pleases you and decide it is finished.
how many possibilities there are for new
and different perfumes from just eight
fragrances.

24
Write Down Advanced Training
Your Formulas for Your Nose

Even though perfume design has a lot to Before you go on to mixing different per-
do with feelings, do not rely only on inter- fumes, here is another short training exer-
nal impulse and feeling. A certain amount cise for your nose.
of discipline during the process is helpful.
For your creations, always write down how > Materials from the kit: all 8 perfume
and in which sequence you developed it, oils, 2 measuring cups, stirrers
so that you can repeat it later or make
slight modifications. Maybe one perfume > Additional materials: smell strips
you made pleased your mother so much (see page 5), pencil, notepaper
that you would like to give it to her an-
other time. > A Friend: This experiment works best
if you do it with your friend.
Filling and
Labeling Experiment
1. Mix two different perfumes. For each
As soon as you are satisfied with your fra- of them, take two or three fragrances, put
grance composition, fill it carefully into a three drops of each into a measuring cup
small flacon with the funnel or into a mini and mix with a stirrer.
flacon with a pipette and seal it off. 2. Write on a sheet of paper which per-
fume oils you used, turn the paper over
Write a name or a number on one of the and set the measuring cup on the sheet of
labels provided with the kit so that you paper listing its contents, so you cannot
know what it is. The small labels are in- read them.
tended for the mini flacons and the larger 3. Now have your friend try to sniff out
ones for the flacons. the fragrances in each cup. To do this, dip
a smell strip in one of the cups, wipe it off
> A tip: Clean the glass surface of the at the edge of the cup and smell it. Can
flacon or mini flacon with paper towel and you figure out which fragrances it con-
some Finalio so that they are absolutely tains? Of course, you must do this without
free of grease. Let them dry and then at- peeking at the sheet of paper.
tach the label.
> Important: Do not forget that the
perfumes will change. Note first the head
note, wait a while, and then sniff the heart
note of the perfume. Also remember to
take small breaks for your nose, such as go-
ing outside for a breath of fresh air.

Fragrances can
revive memories
better than any
other stimulus. The tools of the trade.

25
 In the Perfume Lab
Composing and Developing

You have probably been to a concert or >

Materials from the kit: all 8 per-
some other musical performance. The fume oils
work of perfumers can be compared to
that of composers because perfumes are >Additional materials: pencil, note
like melodies that consist of individual paper, smell strips
notes. In this case, the notes are fra-
grances. All of the fragrances in the kit are Experiment
already compositions or melodies. They 1. Start by getting to know the Basic
consist of carefully selected and mixed fra- Perfume Oils.
grance materials just like notes that form a 2. Prepare four smell strips by writing
specific song. the names of these oils below the mid-
Just like composers must learn the point of each strip.
individual musical notes before they can 3. Begin your nose-training with
compose beautiful melodies, so must the Flory. This flowery Basic Perfume Oil is the
perfumers get to know their perfume oils starting point for many perfume creations.
before composing beautiful perfumes. Put 1 or 2 drops of Flory on the smell strip
Fragrances can be thought of as perfume with this name on it.
building blocks. Next, you will learn how 4. Sniff the smell strip briefly and note
this is done. the fragrance. Perhaps you can even imag-
ine a picture with it. Then sniff it again
Getting to Know with your eyes closed. Memorize the pic-
Your Perfume Oils ture from before.
5. Now put the smell strip into one of
As you know, you have four Basic Perfume the slots in the kit tray for at least one
Oils in your perfume laboratory. They are minute to give your nose a break.
called Flory, Woody, Lemony, and Musky. 6. Now repeat step 4. Sniff the smell
The Basic Perfume Oils are the foundations strip. Can you recall the fragrance and its
for the perfumes that you will compose. picture? If not, take a short break and test
In addition, there are the four Creative the smell strip again. This time, you will
Perfume Oils: Orienta, Mentha, Mella, surely succeed.
and Tropica. They are responsible for the 7. Familiarize yourself with the other
unique notes of your perfume melody. perfume oils in the same way. Allow your-
self at least a five-minute break between
each fragrance. This is the only way that
your nose will not be overwhelmed.

> Important: In the beginning, get

to know the four Basic Perfume Oils and
take a 15-minute break. Then do the same
thing in the reverse order and see if you
can recognize the fragrances and their

Perfumers command the multiple notes

in their fragrance organ, which is the
name of the huge collection of fragrant
oils in vials on their shelves. It is called this
because of its resemblance to a pipe organ.

26
names. Repeat this several times until you
can determine the Basic Perfume Oils with-
out fail and imagine them to yourself.
By the time you have command over
the Basic Perfume Oils in your sleep, so to
speak, you can continue to get to know
the Creative Perfume Oils in the same way.

Your First
Perfume Mixtures

Now that you can refer to your notes and

have memorized the Basic and Creative
Perfume Oils, you probably want to be-
gin composing perfumes! But wait, not Do not overload your nose. Learn the
so fast. First you must be able to play a perfume oils in stages. Tackle the Basic
Perfume Oils in one day and save the
prescribed fragrance melody. Here too,
Creative Perfume Oils for the next day.
practice makes perfect. Only after you can
recreate a simple perfume formula from a
written recipe, should you begin to tackle
your own complex compositions. > A tip: Would you like to introduce
your first perfume to your parents or a
>Materials from the kit: all 8 per- friend? Take a cotton pad, put it in a beau-
fume oils, measuring cup, stirrer, Finalio, tiful small jar and add a couple of drops of
pipette Rosali to it with the pipette.

>Additional materials: pencil, note- Refining Your

paper, small bowl, smell strips, cotton pads Perfume Formulas

Rosali Perfume No. 1 Finally, you are ready to go from being like
1. Add 5 drops of Flory to 3 drops of a musician to being like a composer who
Orienta in the measuring cup. Mix with writes his or her own music. Your instru-
the stirrer. ment is this kit, the notes are the perfume
2. Take a smell strip, label it with "Rosa- oils, and the volume you can determine
li" and dip it in the perfume mixture. Wipe with Finalio.
the smell strip lightly at the edge of the
measuring cup and sniff. How does your > Materials from the kit: all 8 per-
first perfume smell? fume oils, measuring cup, stirrer, Finalio,
3. Now add 8 drops of Finalio to your flacons or mini flacons, funnel, pipette
perfume mix. Stir again carefully and dip
the smell strip. What does your nose tell >Additional materials: pencil, note-
you now? Can you tell the difference? paper, smell strips
Finalio has changed your perfume. It has
probably made it more intense. But what Fantasia Perfume No. 2
do you think? 1. Begin with the versatile Basic Per-
fume Oil Flory, and put 5 drops of it into
> What have you learned? Each per- the measuring cup.
fume can be used as a pure mixture, or it
can be processed further with Finalio. F
Fragrances that are to be applied with Warning Statement
the atomizer must always be thinned with
Finalio. The perfume oils only become Finalio is flammable. Observe the
sprayable after the addition of Finalio. information of page 4.

27
 2. Take a smell strip labeled Flory, dip it procedure before you try out the next per-
in the cup. fume, Atlantis. Use different Basic Perfume
3. Now think about what additional Oils so that you get a good feel for each
fragrance you would like to combine with one. Practice makes perfect.
Flory. Select one of the Creative Perfume
Oils. Atlantis Perfume No. 3
4. If the fragrance note of Flory needs a 1. Now we will combine two Basic Per-
light trace of mint, select Mentha. Would fume Oils and refine them afterwards with
you like to add some sweet, caramel fla- Creative Perfume Oil. Begin with a Basic
vor? Then take Mella. If you would like Perfume Oil of your choice. Put 5 drops of
the flowery fragrance of Flory to be a little it into the measuring cup.
dryer, then add Orienta. Or maybe you 2. Which of the other Basic Perfume Oils
would like to round off the flowery Flory will suit the first one? Begin by smelling all
with a fruity note? Then Tropica is the the remaining Basic Perfume Oils. Select
proper Creative Perfume Oil. one and add 1 drop of it into the measur-
5. When you have decided, add 1 drop ing cup, mix with the stirrer, and test the
of the specific Creative Perfume Oil to the result with a smell strip.
Flory. 3. Add more drops until you are satis-
6. Mix with the stirrer, dip a smell strip fied with the result. Now you have mixed
and smell the result. If the creative note your own new Basic Perfume Oil.
seems too low, add 1 more drop of the 4. Next, consider which of the Creative
same Creative Perfume Oil up to a maxi- Perfume Oils you might use to add a spe-
mum of 5 drops until you are satisfied cial note. Add some drops of this oil until
with the result. your nose is pleased with the result.
5. When you are satisfied, decide if you
> Be Careful! With a simple formula, also need Finalio.
never use more Creative Perfume Oil than
Basic Oil. >A variation: Perhaps you would like
to use yet another Creative Perfume Oil?
Finalio When and How Much? You can add this, also drop by drop, until
Depending on what you are doing with you have made the desired fragrance.
your perfume, you will probably need
some Finalio. You will need Finalio if you > A tip: Repeat the creation of per-
plan to use the perfume in the flacon with fumes from the same pattern as Atlantis a
the atomizer. few times, until you are confident that you
can judge the influence of the individual
> Start by adding as many drops of Fina- perfume oils well.
lio as you have used of Basic Perfume Oil
(in this case, 5 drops). Test the result with
a smell strip. If you are not yet satisfied, More Perfume Formulas
increase the amount of Finalio.
Wanderer 5 drops Musky
> Rule of thumb: You can increase the 3 drops Woody
amount of Finalio up to twice the total 8 drops Finalio
number of drops of perfume oils you have
used. Citrus Breeze 5 drops Lemony
This means for this first perfume a maxi- 1 drop Mella
mum of 20 drops of Finalio, because you 6 drops Finalio
have used 5 drops of Basic Perfume Oil and
at most 5 drops of Creative Perfume Oil. Storm 5 drops Woody
4 drops Orienta
>A tip: Compose at least five simple 1 drop Mentha
creations of your own according to this 10 drops Finalio
28
Freestyle Perfumery
Professional Tips
Now for the greatest challenge in perfume
creation: the free style combination. This > Smell carefully at each step and write
method is the method most often used everything down. Take a break for at
in the development of classical perfumes least three minutes when the perfume
or eau de toilettes. Begin with a large oils begin to smell more and more simi-
amount of the Basic Perfume Oils to which lar, or when your composition does not
you gradually add more perfume oils. seem to change significantly any more.

> Materials from the kit: all 8 per- > Add only one perfume oil at a time un-
fume oils, measuring cup, stirrer, Finalio, til you smell the desired change.
flacons or mini flacons, funnel, pipette
> Using more perfume oils does not mean
> Additional materials: pencil, note- that the perfume will be better. Limit
paper, smell strips yourself to a few oils per creation.

Experiment > Add Finalio only after you have com-

1. Decide which type of perfume you pleted your composition.
wish to compose. To do this, review page
24 where you will find the different fra- > The more often you test the result with
grance descriptions. your nose, the more certain you can be
2. Select a fragrance direction, for ex- to achieve your favorite perfume.
ample Lemony if you wish to get a fresh,
citrus perfume, or Tropica if your perfume > The final smell testing of the finished
should have a pure fruity note. perfume, diluted with Finalio, must be
3. Put 20 drops of the first oil of your done a few times. Allow at least one
choice into the measuring cup and check minute between tests. Your nose will re-
it with a smell strip. This is the starting fra- fuse to recognize any further variation
grance note. in the fragrance until after the pause.
4. Where would you like to take it now?
Sniff the other bottles if you cant remem- > After enough practice you can increase
ber their fragrance precisely. the volume per perfume creation by
5. Once you have decided, add the sec- beginning with a larger quantity of the
ond perfume oil drop by drop until you Basic Perfume Oil, for example 20 drops.
have reached your goal for the fragrance.
6. Now you can add more perfume oils > If you want your perfumes to be made
according to the same procedure. exactly for the flacons in the kit, you
7. When you are sure that you have must do a little calculation. Your par-
achieved the optimal fragrance, it is time ents might help you with this. Here is
for Finalio. If your perfume seems too oily the important information from which
or it is difficult to spray, carefully add Fina- to calculate the quantities: 30 drops of
lio drop by drop. perfume oil or Finalio are equivalent to
about 1 ml liquid. You can find out the
capacity of the flacons from the con-
Do not forget tents list.
to write down
the individual > With more experience, you can design
steps for your perfumes with less frequent smell tests
formula so and breaks. This protects your nose so
that you can that you can work longer without a
recreate the break.
perfume later.
29
 ws
e la follow all of these rules to
Th
of
me
become a master perfumer!
p erfu gn
desi >
All bottles must always > Pour finished perfumes into flacon
be closed immediately. The (with a funnel) or into mini-flacons (with
pure perfume oils have such an a pipette). Close them tightly. For the
intensive fragrance that they could disturb flacon there is a threaded cap and an
the creation of new perfumes. And it atomizer. With this atomizer the perfume
would not be good if they were to tip over can be distributed in very fine quantities.
and spill. For the mini-flacons there are threaded
caps with a pin. Perfume can be applied to
> Always smell compositions as clean skin with this pin.
mixtures of the perfume oils. Only add
Finalio when the mixing of perfume oils is > Try out the atomizer on blotting paper
finished. to observe the fine distribution on a rather
large surface.
> Never add more than twice the volume
of Finalio to a perfume mixture. Otherwise > Write on the labels before you attach
the smell will be too weak and the them. Before attaching them, de-grease
perfume too dull. the flacons or mini-flacons with Finalio.

> Note the quantities (drops) for your > Rinse pipettes, measuring cups, and
perfume oils and Finalio so that you can stirrers immediately after use with soapy
make the same perfume another time or water. Flush the pipettes with clean water
adjust it. only. Especially stubborn fragrances can be
removed with Finalio.
> During breaks, always cover the
measuring cups containing your current > Used smell strips and cotton pads should
composition with lids and ventilate the be put in small plastic bags and disposed
work area. of in a garbage can with cover.

Fun Facts about Fragrances from

you
Did w... around the World!
kno

>A professional nose can tell

> On an average day, our nose has to deal
more than 2,000 fragrances apart with more than 40 different fragrances
and perceive up to 10,000 smells. from such things as shampoos, soaps, lo-
tions, and deodorants.
> A perfume consists of 60 to 100 ingre-
dients on average. Some have as many
as 700 different ingredients!
> Women generally have a better
sense of smell than men. But for both
genders, the sense of smell begins
> There are about 400 perfumers in to diminish from age 40.
the world; about half of them live in
the USA.
> "4711 Genuine Eau de Cologne"
is one of the oldest and most suc-
> The most expensive raw material cessful fragrances still used today. It
used in perfume making is extracted was designed more than 200 years
from iris roots, called Orris. It costs ago.
about $50,000 for 500 grams, or
about 1 pound.

30
Special Crafts
For Your Perfumes

Now that you have made great smelling Colorful Flower

perfumes, you probably want to use them. Potpourri
There are many different applications for
perfumes, made of many different materi- Potpourris, or fragrant mixtures of flow-
als and in many different shapes. Use the ers, herbs, or spices that are usually kept in
following suggestions for inspiration. You jars, are perfect for sensitive noses that do
no doubt will have other brilliant ideas. not like strong fragrances.

A Sweet Smelling > Materials from the kit: homemade

Room Deodorizer finished perfume, pipette

Use cotton pads is a quick and simple >Additional materials: decorative jar
means to make your environment smell (with or without cover), plate, flowers or
pleasant. flower petals, newspaper or paper towel

> Materials from the kit: undiluted Instructions

perfume, pipette 1. In the warmer months, you can find
most of what you need for a flower pot-
> Additional materials: a decorative pourri outside in nature or in the garden.
jar or small plate, cotton pads You will also need your perfume.
2. Collect flower petals or entire flowers
Instructions from your favorite plants. To dry them, put
1. Put a cotton pad in the jar. them on a large plate covered with paper
2. Add a couple of drops of your per- towel or newspaper, and let them dry for
fume to the pad with your pipette. many days.
3. Place the jar somewhere in the room 3. Put the dry flowers or flower petals
that is inaccessible for small children and into the jar so that the petals have plenty
animals. of space.
4. With the pipette, sprinkle some drops
> A tip: The perfume will add fragrance of your perfume on the flowers.
to the room because it can spread out
on the cotton pad. The surface of the small
droplets of perfume will enlarge to cover
the full surface of the pad, and therefore
evaporate more quickly. If you put the jar
in a warm place, such as on a heater, the
heat will help spread the fragrance even
better.

31
 A Pretty Sachet A Fragrant Necklace
for Your Desk from Flower Petals

Our grandmothers knew and loved sa- Here is a special gift for a very good friend.
chets, or small bags containing perfumed
powders or potpourris. Even today there >Materials from the kit: homemade,
are many uses and applications for sachets. undiluted perfume (fresh or lemony)

> Materials from the kit: homemade, > Additional materials: fresh pet-
undiluted perfume (fresh or lemony), pi- als from roses, carnations or sage, paper
pette towel, large plate, cotton thread, knitting
needle
> Additional materials: dried leaves
from lemony herbs, dried lemon peel,
chamomile flowers, bowl, cotton or silk Instructions
remnants, chalk, scissors, pins, sewing 1. To make the flower necklace, collect
thread, needle leaves from pleasant smelling flowers or
herbs like roses, carnations, or sage.
Instructions
1. Copy the cut out pattern on 2. Pick off the leaves and roll them
this page and transfer the cut- into small firm beads. You can
ting line and the dotted sewing decide the size of the beads
line onto two 5 x 5 inch pieces from the quantity of available
of fabric. leaves and petals.

2. Cut out the two 3. Let them dry on a plate

heart shaped pieces of covered with a paper towel in
fabric. a well-ventilated location.

3. Sew the two heart pieces 4. Before the beads are

together along the dotted line quite dry and hard, pierce them
leaving an opening of about 1 inch. with the knitting needle and thread
them onto a strong thread of cotton or
4. Turn the piece inside out. nylon.

5. Mix one handful each of the dried 5. Tie the two ends together and the
leaves and flowers in the bowl, sprinkle fragrant necklace is done.
some of your homemade perfume on
them with a pipette and fill the heart > A tip: If the flower necklace should
shaped sachet with the mixture. lose its fragrance over time or if the fra-
grance is too light for you, revive it with a
6. Turn the edges of the filling opening few drops of your favorite perfume mix-
inward and sew it together as neatly as ture.
possible with fine stitches. Your sachet is
finished.

32
 Compositions of the Perfume Oils and Finisher

Contents of Flory Amount [%] Contents of Tropica Amount [%]

Dipropylene glycol 90100 Dipropylene glycol 90100
Methyl dihydrojasmonate 110 4-Undecanolide 110
3-Methyl-5-phenylpentanol 0.11 Ethyl 6-acetoxyhexanoate 0.11
Tetrahydrolinalool 0.11 2-tert-Butylcyclohexyl acetate 0.11
2-Phenoxyethyl 2-methylpropionate 0.11 Hexyl acetate 0.11
Dimethyl benzyl carbinyl acetate 0.11 trans-2-Hexenyl acetate 0.11
4-Methyl-3-decen-5-ol 0.010.1 4-(1,3-Benzodioxol-5-yl)butan-2-one 0.11
6,10-Dimethyl-5,9-undecadien- Frambinone 0.11
2-yl acetate 0.010.1 Benzaldehyde 0.010.1
Jasmone 0.010.1 Vanillin 0.010.1
Frambinone 0.010.1 Ethyl maltol 0.010.1
5-(2,2,3-Trimethyl-3-cyclopentenyl)- Denatoniumbenzoate 0.00010.01
3-methylpentan-2-ol 0.00010.01
10-Undecenal 0.00010.01
Denatonium benzoate 0.00010.01 Contents of Mentha Amount [%]
Dipropylene glycol 90100
2-sec-Butylcyclohexanone 110
Contents of Woody Amount [%] trans-Menthone (trans-2-Isopropyl-5-
Dipropylene glycol 90100 methylcyclohexanone) 110
4-tert-Butylcyclohexyl acetate 0.11 Denatoniumbenzoate 0.00010.01
1-(2,2,6-Trimethylcyclohexyl)-3-hexanol 0.11
Cedrenyl acetate 0.11
Cedrol 0.11 Contents of Mella Amount [%]
4-tert-Butylcyclohexanol 0.11 Dipropylene glycol 90100
Dodecahydro-3a,6,6,9a- Octahydro-2H-1-benzopyran-2-one 0.11
tetramethylnaphtho(2,1-b)furan 0.00010.01 4-Isobutyrate-3-methoxybenzaldehyde 0.11
5-(2,2,3-Trimethyl-3-cyclopentenyl)- Benzyl acetate 0.11
3-methylpentan-2-ol 0.00010.01 Vanillin 0.11
2-Methylundecanal 0.00010.01 Ethyl maltol 0.11
Methyl atrarate 0.00010.01 gamma-Decalactone 0.010.1
Denatonium benzoate 0.00010.01 Diacetyl 0.010.1
4-Undecanolide 0.010.1
gamma-Nonalactone 0.010.1
Contents of Lemony Amount [%] Dodecahydro-3a,6,6,9a-
Dipropylene glycol 90100 tetramethylnaphtho(2,1-b)furan 0.00010.01
Tetrahydrolinalool 110 1-(4-Methylphenyl)ethanone 0.00010.01
Dihydromyrcenol 110 Denatoniumbenzoate 0.00010.01
2-Ethenyl-2,6,6-trimethyltetrahydropyran 0.11
6,10-Dimethyl-5,9-undecadien-2-yl acetate 0.11
3,7-Dimethyl-2(3),6-nonadienonitrile 0.11 Contents of Orienta Amount [%]
Peonile (2-Cyclohexylidene-2- Dipropylene glycol 90100
phenylacetonitrile) 0.11 Ethyl ((2-ethyl-6,6-dimethyl) or
Lime oxide / Monoterpenes C10H16 & (2,3,6,6-tetramethyl))-cyclohex-
Cyclic Monoterpene Ethers C10H18O 0.010.1 2-encarboxylate 0.11
Denatonium benzoate 0.00010.01 Eugenyl acetate 0.11
2-Butyl-4,4,6-trimethyl-2,3-dioxane 0.11
p-Anisaldehyde 0.11
Contents of Musky Amount [%] 4-tert-Butylcyclohexanol 0.11
Dipropylene glycol 90100 Vanillin 0.010.1
Oxacycloheptadec-10-en-2-one 110 Ethyl maltol 0.010.1
Cyclopentadecanolide 110 Methyl cyclopentylideneacetate 0.010.1
Methyl dihydrojasmonate 0.11 Denatoniumbenzoate 0.00010.01
5-(2,2,3-Trimethyl-3-cyclopentenyl)-3-
methylpentan-2-ol 0.010.1
Frambinone 0.010,1 Contents of Finalio Amount [%]
Dodecahydro-3a,6,6,9a- Ethanol 70
tetramethylnaphtho(2,1-b)furan 0.00010.01 Water 30
Skatol 0.00010.01 Tert-Butanol 0.00010.01
Denatonium benzoate 0.00010.01 Denatonium benzoate 0.00010.01
Poison Control Centers in the United States
In an emergency, your nearest Poison Control Center can be reached
everywhere in the United States by dialing:

1 800 222 1222

If you prefer a local number, you will be able to find it on the first
page of your local phone book, right below the 911 listing for FIRE,
POLICE AND AMBULANCE, usually under OTHER EMERGENCY
NUMBERS.

First Aid For Injuries

Most important: In case of injury, get immediate medical assistance.

1. In case of contact with the eyes: Flush the eye generously with water while
holding it open if necessary. Flush from the nose outward. Get immediate
medical assistance.

2. In case of swallowing: Flush the mouth clean with water; drink fresh water.
Do not induce vomiting. Get immediate medical assistance.

3. In case of contact with the skin and for burns: Flush the affected skin area
for five minutes with plenty of water. Cover lesions with burn dressings. Nev-
er apply oil, powder, or flour to burn lesions. Do not puncture burn blisters.
Seek medical assistance for large burns.

4. In case of cuts: Do not touch and do not flush with water. Do not use oint-
ments, powder, or the like. Cover wounds with sterile, dry adhesive dressings.
Foreign bodies (for example glass splinters) should only be removed from the
wound by a doctor. Also seek medical advice if the lesion stings."

If the symptoms persist, seek immediate medical assistance. In case of acci-

dents with chemicals, bring the chemical involved as well as the container to
the doctor, or describe them to the doctor.

In this box, write the telephone number of your nearest Poison Control Cen-
ter that can be reached in an emergency:

Poison Control Center:

The number for your states Poison Control Center can be found in the front
pages of your telephone book.