CBSE CIT Textile Chemical Processing-XII Text PDF

Textile Chemical
Processing
Students Handbook + Waa Danua
ass yII
CENTRAL BOARD OF SECONDARY EDUCATION

Shiksha Kendra, 2, Community Centre, Preet Vihar, Delhi-110301
In collaboration with
National Institute of Fashion Technology

Textile Chemical Processing
Students Handbook + Practical Manual Class XII
PRICE : `
FIRST EDITION : 2014

CBSE, India
COPIES : 1,000
No Part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted,

in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical photocopying, recording or
otherwise without the prior permission of the publisher.
PUBLISHED BY : The Secretary, Central Board of Secondary Education,

Shiksha Kendra, 2, Community Centre, Preet Vihar,
Delhi - 110301
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THE CONSTITUTION OF INDIA
PREAMBLE
WE, THE PEOPLE OF INDIA, having solemnly resolved to constitute India into a SOVEIGN
SOCIALIST SECULAR DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC and to secure to all its citizens:
JUSTICE, Social Economic and political;
LIBERTY of thought, expression, belief, faith and worship;
EQUALITY of status and of opportunity; and to promote among them all;
FRATERNITY assuring the dignity of the individual and the [unity and integrity of the Nation];
IN OUT CONSTITUENT ASSEMBLY this twenty-sixth day of November, 1949, do HEREBY ADOPT
ENACT AND GIVE TO OURSELVES THIS CONSTITUTION.
1. Subs, by the Constitution (Forty-Second Amendment) Act. 1976, sec. 2, for "Sovereign Democratic Republic
(w.e.f. 3.1.1977)
2. Subs, by the Constitution (Forty-Second Amendment) Act. 1976, sec. 2, for "unity of the Nation (w.e.f. 3.1.1977)
THE CONSTITUTION OF INDIA

Chapter IV A
Fundamental Duties
ARTICLE 51A
Fundamental Duties - It shall be the duty of every citizen of India-
(a) to abide by the Constitution and respect its ideals and institutions, the National Flag and the
National Anthem;
(b) to cherish and follow the noble ideals which inspired our national struggle for freedom;
(c) to uphold and protect the sovereignty, unity and integrity of India;
(d) to defend the country and render national service when called upon to do so;
(e) to promote harmony and the spirit of common brotherhood amongst all the people of India
transcending religious, linguistic and regional or sectional diversities; to renounce practices
derogatory to the dignity of women;
(f) to value and preserve the rich heritage of our composite culture;
(g) to protect and improve the natural environment including forests, lakes, rivers, wild life and to
have compassion for living creatures;
(h) to develop the scientic temper, humanism and the spirit of inTuiry and reform;
(i) to safeguard public property and to abjure violence;
(j) to strive towards excellence in all spheres of individual and collective activity so that the nation
constantly rises to higher levels of endeavour and achievement.
3UHIDFH
W e take the opportunity to present this standard handbook entitled as "Textile

Chemical Processing" to the students of Class XII of CBSE Vocational
course. The objective of this book is to present the subject matter in most
concise, compact, to the point and lucid manner.
:hile writing this book, the reTuirements, of all the students regarding understanding of
terminology used in the Industries were constantly kept in the mind.
To make it more useful, the book has been written in an easy language and special care
has been taken to explain all the terminology in simple manner. I hope that the book will
fulll the reTuirement of the students, for which it has been designed.
The Faculty of the National Institute of Fashion Technology has developed the curriculum
and the learning Material. I place on record the Boards thankful acknowledgement of
the services rendered by Shri P.K. Gera, Director General, NIFT, Sr. Prof Banhi Jha,
Dean- Academics, Project In-charge and Ms. Savita Sheoran Rana, Chairperson, Textile
Design Department, Project Anchor - Textile Design. The course is developed and
prepared by faculty members from across the NIFT centers. CBSE also acknowledges
the contribution by Prof. Kripal Mathur, Prof. V. Shivalingam, Director, NIFT Bangaluru,
Prof. Sudha Dhingra, NIFT New Delhi, Ms. Savita Sheoran Rana, Associate Prof. &
Chairperson, NIFT New Delhi,Mr. Manish Bhargava, Associate Prof., Gandhinagar and
Ms. Ruby Kashyup Sood, Associate Prof, NIFT New Delhi . The Board also acknowledges
the co-ordination and guidance provided by Dr. Biswajit Saha, Additional Director and
Ms Swati Gupta, Deputy Director (Vocational Education).
Although every care has been taken to check mistakes and misprints, in case there
has been any omission or error kindly bring it to our notice. Your suggestions will be
incorporated in the next edition.
Vineet Joshi
Chairman, CBSE
v
$FNQRZOHGJHPHQWV
Preamble
Textile Chemical Processing provide the complete basic understanding of the fabrics
processing of all type of fabrics which are used into Apparel or Home fashion Industry.
It includes Pre-treatments, Dyeing, Printing and Finishing of fabrics
In order to develop knowledge of value addition on fabric, "Textile Chemical
Processing" course is introduced as an elementary course. The course will provide
an overview of textile chemical processing in the Textile mills. The overall objective
of this course is to provide the fundamental understanding of basic process used in
the industry to improve the feel, appearance and Tuality of fabrics
CBSE NIFT
Mr. Vineet Joshi, IAS, Chairman Mr. Prem Kumar Gera, IAS, D.G.
Sh. M.V.V. Prasada Rao, Director Sr. Prof. Banhi Jha, Dean (A).
Voc & Edusat.
Dr. Biswajit Saha, Additional Director, Prof. Kripal Mathur, Registrar,
Vocational Education. NIFT H.O.
Ms Swati Gupta, Deputy Director,
Vocational Education, CBSE Anchor.
Anchor
Ms. Savita Sheoran Rana, Chairperson, Textile Design Department1,)7'HOKL
Contributors
Prof. V. Sivalingam, Director NIFT- Bangaluru
Mr. Manish Bhargava, Associate Professor, Textile Design Department,
NIFT, Gandhinagar.
vi
INDEX
UNIT - I : TEXTILE CHEMICAL PROCESSING 1
1.1 Textile Chemical Processing for the Fibres (Preparatory Operations) 1
1.2 Singeing 2
1.3 De-Sizing 3
1.4 Scouring 3
1.5 Bleaching 4
1.6 Mercerization 5
UNIT - II : TEXTILE DYEING 7

2.1 Colouring Materials 7
2.2 Important Features of Dyes 8
2.2.1 Vat Dyes 8
2.2.2 Azoic/Napthol Dyes 9
2.2.3 Direct Dyes 10
2.2.4 Sulfur Dyes 10
2.2.5 Reactive Dyes 12
2.2.6 Disperse Dyes 13
2.2.7 Basic Dyes 13
2.2.8 Acid Dyes 14
2.2.9 Chrome / Mordant / Metallic Dyes 14
2.3 The Selection of Dyes 15
2.4 Dyeing Objectives 15
2.5 Dyeing Methods 15
2.6 Batch Dyeing Processes 16
2.7 Continuous Dyeing ProcesVH 17
2.8 Semi Continuous Dyeing Proces 19
2.9 Styles of Dyeing 34
UNIT III : TEXTILE PRINTING 39

3.1 Stencil Printing 42
3.2 Block Printing 42
3.3 Hand Screen-Printing 43
3.4 Automatic Flat Bed Screen Printing 44
3.5 Rotary Screen Printing 45
3.6 Heat Transfer Printing 46
vii
Textile Chemical Processing Class XII
3.7 Styles of Prints 47

3.8 Direct Prints 47
3.9 Discharge Prints 47
3.10 Resist Prints 49
3.11 Pigment Prints 49
3.12 Blotch Prints 50
3.13 Flock Printing 51
3.14 Burn-Out Prints 52
3.15 Duplex Prints 52
3.16 Engineered Prints 52
3.17 Warp Prints 53
UNIT IV : TEXTILE FINISHES 56
4.1 Classication of Finishes 57
4.2 According to Textile Chemists 58
4.3 According to Degree of Performance 59
4.4 General Finishes 59
4.5 Napping / Brushing 62
4.6 Emerizing, Sueding, Sanding or Peach Finish 63
4.7 Parchmentising Organdy 63
4.8 Functional Finishes 63
4.9 Shrinkage Control Methods 69
4.10 Soil Release / Stain Proof / Stain Repellent Finishes 71
4.11 Water Repellent / Water Proof Finishes 71
4.12 Anti Microbial Finishes 72
4.13 Insect & Moth Control Finishes 73
4.14 Durable Flame Retardant 73
4.15 Fabric and Garment Washes 74
4.16 Micro Encapsulated Finishes 75
Glossary 78
viii
UNIT I
TEXTILE CHEMICAL PROCESSING
UNIT - I
Learning Outcome
After nishing this unit, students will be able to understand
Various technical terminology used in the industry.
Various types of impurities presents in the substrates.
The processes involved in removing impurities.
Overview
In this chapter students will get to know about various techniTues of preparatory process
of textile material which is the essential part of the processing. Without preparatory
process it is very difcult to achieve the desire result in the dyeing , printing and nishing
process.
After studying this chapter, the students will be familiarized and will be able to understand
terminology used in the Industry, impurities present in natural and synthetic bers (Raw
Cotton, Wool, Silk, Polyester, Nylon and Acrylic) and their effective and cost economic
removal.
This unit also deals with Chemical Processes, Chemical Treatment , Process Flowcharts
of Cotton, Wool, Silk and Synthetic bers, Elementary Knowledge of Sizing, Desizing,
Scouring & Bleaching. After understanding these terminology students will be able to
know the processes involved in achieving desired fabric Tuality.
Introduction To Chemical Processing : Pre-treatments

1.1 Textile Chemical Processing for the Fibres (Preparatory Operations)
The fabric collected from various weaving setups, can not be used directly for
manufacturing various textile products. There are number of impurities present in the
fabric such as dust, dirt, oil stains, oil and waxes, starches or other sizing materials,
seed particles, and natural coloring materials. These impurities can be classied as.
I. Natural Impurities &
II. Added Impurities
1
Natural Impurities :- Natural impurities are generally presents in the natural bres in
the form of oil, waxes, natural colour, vegetable matters ( such as leaves particles, Seed
particles, etc), Dust particle. In case of wool sweat is also considered as impurities
UNIT - I
which is deposited on the sheeps or goats hair.

Added Impurities:- These type of impurities are manually added to the yarn or bres
during the manufacturing process to increase the efciency of the weaving process
such as, Sizing materials (which includes starches, or polyvinyl alcohol are applied on
the surfaces of the yarn to reduces the breakage of yarn during the weaving operation
and increase the weaving efcacy.) Spin nishes are another example of the added
impurities. This type of impurities are generally added to synthetic yarns which contains
Antistatic agents and Lubricants. which reduces the statics charge buildup and friction
during the weaving operation.
These impurities make fabric hydrophobic in nature and limit the fabric for further
processing.
The main objectives of preparatory treatments of textile materials are,
To remove all the impurities, both naturals and those added during production
that may interfere in subseTuent dyeing or nishing process.
Improve the ability of the bers to absorb water, dyes solutions and chemicals.
Impart proper brightness or whiteness to fabrics according to need, especially
when brilliant or pastel shades are desired.
All of these impurities can not be removed by a single operations. It reTuires seTuences of
operations, which is called Processing. All the operations before the dyeing of fabrics are
called Preparatory Process or Pretreatments. These pretreatments includes Singeing,
Desizing, Scouring, Souring, Bleaching and Mercerizing. All of these Operations have
the specic objectives and it is not necessary to use all the operation to all the fabrics.
It generally depends on the type of fabrics, contains of the fabric and the end uses of
the fabric.
1.2 Singeing
During the weaving operations, warp yarns pass though heild wires, and reed. It is
continuously under friction during weaving process. Due to continuous friction, yarn
develops hairiness. This hairiness is undesirable in the fabric and provides an unpleasant
feel to the fabric or garment.
The main objective of the Singeing is removal of protruding bers from both sides of
fabric. For this purpose, the fabric is passed through singeing Machine in open width,
2
at and under tension. Fabric is passed over an open ame at a high speed (300 yards/
min) to prevent scorching. Uneven singeing leads to unleveled dyeing.
UNIT - I
Pic. 1.1: Plate Singeing Machine Pic. 1.2: Singeing Machine
1.3 De-sizing
Size are added during the weaving preparatory process. Main objective of the sizing is
to provide strength to the yarn. This improves the weaving efciency by reducing the
yarn breakage. After the weaving is completed, the size material is undesirable in the
fabric and it makes the fabric stiff and hydrophobic in nature. The main objective of the
De-sizing is removal of starch from fabric. For this purpose, the fabric is impregnated
in the de-sizing bath and stored for 8-12 hrs. The Impregnating bath contains reTuired
amount of enzyme, Wetting agent and Sodium Chloride (Nacl). After this process, fabric
is thoroughly washed with hot water.
In Enzyme application of De-sizing, the fabric padded with enzyme bath is then passed
through steam of 96-100C temp. This is a rapid process in which De-sizing process
complete in less than one minute. The main advantage of De-sizing with enzymes is
that there is no risk of damaging the bres. The process is an eco- friendly and relatively
expensive.
1.4 Scouring
The yarn made of natural bres contains natural oils and waxes. These oils and waxes
make fabric hydrophobic and do not allow dyes and chemicals to penetrate into the
bre. The Scouring is a cleaning treatment in which oil, waxes and residual sizes are
removed from the fabric by the chemicals. After scouring the fabric becomes absorbent
in nature.
In this process, fabric is treated with strong alkali solution (5-10 gm/lit NaOH or mixture
of NaOH & Sodium Carbonate) close to or above the boiling temp. for 1-2 hours with hot
3
rinse and nal cold rinse with acetic acid. The nal rinse with acetic acid is also called
souring process.
UNIT - I
1) solvent impregnation unit

2) sulphuric acid impregnation unit
3) carbonising unit
Pic. 1.3: De-sizing & Scouring Machine Pic. 1.4: De-sizing & Scouring fabric
1.5 Bleaching
After scouring process, the fabric is free from oils and waxes, however natural colouring
matter are still present in the bre. If this colour is not removed at this stage than it will
be very difcult to attain the desired shade in dyeing process.
The main objective of the bleaching process is removal of natural coloring matter
and to make the fabric perfect white with minimum damage to bres and within the
shortest possible time. Bleaching is generally carried out by oxidative process. Some
of the example of the Bleaching agents are: Sodium hypo chlorite, Sodium chlorite and
Hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide is also called as Universal bleaching agent.
Since, it is a very mild bleaching agent, It is used for almost all type of cotton, polyester/
cotton blends and silk fabrics.
Pic. 1.5: Before Bleaching Pic. 1.6: After Bleaching
4
Peroxide bleaching is carried out generally near or above boiling temperature, under
pressure, for one hour or more. After bleaching, the fabric is thoroughly rinsed with slight
amount of basic solution to avoid formulation of insoluble salts of silicates.
UNIT - I
After bleaching, fabric may be sold as perfect white cloth. For achieving perfect white
cloth, fabric is treated with Optical whitening Agents, such as Tinopal , Ranipol etc and
blueing agents such as Robin blue, Ujala etc.
1.6 Mercerization
Mercerization process was invented by John Mercer. He was a young chemist. One
day, while he was ltering some chemical solution using cotton cloth, he observed
some changes in the cotton fabrics. He studied the changes in detail to standardize the
process.
In the Mercerization process, cotton fabric or yarn is treated with a cold concentrated
solution of sodium hydroxide for one minute or less. In this process cotton bers swell,
untwist and their bean shaped cross section changes into a round form.
Mercerization improves the following properties of the cotton fabric.

Strength would be increased to 15-25.
Enhanced luster.
Greater afnity to water, dyes and other chemical nishes.
Shrinkage control in both the direction of the fabric.
Cadena - Mercerizing compartment
Pic. 1.7: Fabric passing through Pic. 1.8 Cross Sectional changes in Cotton
Mercerization solution
5
Fabric is padded with about 20-25 NaOH solution containing a wetting agent. Fabric
is passed over several cans to allow a doweling time of approximately one minute.
During this time, NaOH will penetrate the bres and react with them. At this stage
UNIT - I
the tension is applied lengthwise. The fabric is then placed on a Stenter machine
and is pulled to its desired dimensions.
Exercise
Fill in the blanks
1. Removal of protruding bers from both sides of fabric is called as . .
2. Removal of starch from fabric is called as . .
3. . treatment removes oil, waxes and residual sizes from the fabric.
4. Objective of the . process is to remove natural coloring matter to
make perfect white fabric.
5. Hydrogen peroxide is also called as . .
6. The treatment of cotton fabrics or yarns with a cold concentrated solution of
sodium hydroxide solution for one minute or less is called . .
Short answer questions

1. What are the chemicals used in De- Sizing?
2. What are the chemicals used in Scouring?
3. What are the chemicals used in Mercerizing?
4. What are the chemicals used in Bleaching?
5. What are the main objectives of preparation treatments?
6. What are the main objectives of De- Sizing?
7. What are the main objectives of Scouring process?
8. What are the main objectives of Bleaching process?
9. What are the main objectives of Mercerizing process?
6
UNIT II
TEXTILE DYEING
Learning Outcome
After nishing the unit, students will be able to
Dye all kind of textile fabrics.
Select dyes as per the type of fabrics.
Identify dyeing methods used in the industry.
UNIT - II
Overview
In this unit students will gain knowledge about Dyes and Pigments, Suitability of Dyes
for various kinds of fabrics, method of dyeing by important classes of dyes, important
features of dyes and basic knowledge of dyeing technology. This chapter also describes
various machines used in Dyeing.
After studying this unit, the students will be able to Dye all kind of textile fabrics, and get
better understanding of roles of chemicals and auxiliaries in fabric dyeing.
2.1 Colouring Materials

Fabric, you see in the daily life has various colours. These colors can be divided in to
two category - Dyes and pigments. These dyes and pigments are used to impart color to
the textile materials. In order to perform the coloring of the materials, dyes and pigments
should have the following features.
PIGMENTS DYES
Intense color, insoluble in water or & Intense color, must have solubility in water
Common solvents during dyeing stage
Are not made to have substantivity to 0ust have substantivity to the ber during
bers dyeing stage.
Molecular size varies from small to Molecular size must be small enough to allow
large size the molecules to penetrate the bers.
Stable to further treatments in Stable to further treatment in production and
production & normal use normal use.
Durability depends upon binders used Able to acquire durability to wet treatments.
7
O2N
CI H
N N HO
N =
N N
O=S=O HO N N N
OH N
N H
Cu N
O Ca**O N
=
O N CH3
S = Quinacridone, (Pigment Violet 19), N N
(5,12-Dihydro-quino [2,3-b]
=
O acridine-7,14-dione) N
CI Pigment Orange 3
C.I. Pigment Red 53:2,
Phthalocyanine blue, Pigment Blue 15
C.I. 15585:2, 5-Chloro-2-[-(2-hydroxy-1-naphthaleny1)
diazenyl]-4-methylbenzenesulfonic acid calcium salt R
N O
Ar
H3CN NCH3
O Ar
N
R CI Pigment red 179 (N, N'-Dimethyl-3,4,9,10-
UNIT - II
Diketopyrrolopyrrole perylenedicarboximide)
Pic.2.1 Structure of Dyes & Pigments

2.2 Important Features of Dyes
There are various classes of dyes, which are having different fastness properties, afnity,
towards bres such as Direct dyes, Vat dyes, Reactive dyes, Sulphur dyes, Disperse
dyes, Acid dyes and Metal complex dyes.
2.2.1 Vat Dyes

Vat dyes are insoluble organic compounds and do not have any substantivity to cellulose.
These dyes are widely used for cellulose bers and can also be used for protein and
nylon bers. They produce good color range but limited
selection of orange, blue. Bright green are more popular
in this class. Large amount of dyes are reTuired to
attain deeper shade.
Application
Since these dyes are insoluble in water, it can not be
applied directly to the fabrics. First these dyes are
converted into water soluble form, by reducing it with
the help of Caustic soda and Sodium hydro sulphite.
When these dyes become soluble
H
N in water, they can be applied on a Pic.2.2 Vat Dyes
N
H
fabric.
Indigo, (2, 2'-Bis
(2, 3-dihydro-3-oxoindolyliden). Indigotin After the application, these dyes are again converted into water
Pic.2.3 Structure of insoluble form by oxidation process, with the use of hydrogen
Indigo Dye peroxide and acetic acid or simply by air oxidation.
8
These dyes are most difcult to process and reTuire a skilled person to dye the fabric.
Vat dyes have excellent fastness to crocking, perspiration, chlorine bleaching, oxidizing
agents and high temperature treatments.
This is a very expensive dyeing process and high initial cost of dye and chemicals prevent
it from uses in normal fabrics dyeing. Vat dyes are used on best Tuality of the fabrics
where all round fastness is reTuired. Indigo is the rst known class of Natural Vat dye.
2.2.2 Azoic/Napthol Dyes

Azoic Dyes are derived from aryl amides organic compounds. These chemical compounds
UNIT - II
can not be used directly as dyes. However, the dyes are formed inside the bre by the
reaction of primary Amines with Napthols, under controlled conditions. Hence, these
dyes are also called ingrain dyes. Azo group is generally present in this class of dyes,
so it is also called Azo dyes.
These classes of dyes are also insoluble in water and primarily used for cellulose bers.
Some times these are used with triacetate to produce black shades;
These dyes produces full range of red , orange, brilliant yellow colour along with maroons,
scarlet, deep black and burgundies. Azoic dyes lack green and bright blue colors.
Application
These dyes are applied in two stages; rst stage is called Naptholation of the fabric.
In the second stage, the fabric is treated with soluble salt of primary amines, at
cold condition, generally
0C 5C. Hence these dyes
are also called Ice colour. Due
to this, these dyes are the rst
choice of the dyers for Batik
printing.
These dyes have good color
fastness to washing and dry
cleaning and poor to good
fastness to light. Dark colors OH
have poor fastness to crocking.

Azoic Dyeing process is complex 2 - Napthol, Dia]o
and time consuming. Coupling Component
Pic.2.4 Color & Structure of Azoic Dyes
9
2.2.3 Direct Dyes

These dyes are derived from a formulation of Benzedrine salts. These are water soluble
dyes and least expensive one. These dyes are easy to apply and can be applied directly
on the fabric, without any pretreatment. Dye xing
agents are not reTuired to x this category of dye.
These dyes are widely used on cellulosic bers.
Direct dyes are having wide range of colors and
shades. The fabric dyed with the direct dyes
generally does not have bright colors. Among the
UNIT - II
bright colors, only bright greens are available, but is

more expensive than any other color.
Application
These are water soluble dyes; hence, can be directly
applied on the fabric. These dyes have good color
fastness to perspiration and dry cleaning. Light Pic.2.5 Direct Dyes
fastness of these dyes varies widely from poor to
very good.
COONa Some direct dyes are metalized with copper to

H increase their light fastness. In other cases, copper
N O
N salts are applied as an after treatment for improving
NaO3S N
N COONa light and wash fastness.
OH These dyes have poor fastness to washing and
Direct Red 185
crocking. Majority of the direct dyes are used as
Pic: 2.6 Direct Dye Structure back ground color for discharge printing.
2.2.4 Sulfur Dyes
These dyes are derived from the formulation of compounds containing sulfur. These
are water insoluble dyes and applied by exhaust dyeing method. Sulfur dyes are widely
used for cellulosic bres for darker shades
Application
These are water insoluble dyes, and can not be applied on fabric directly. Sulfur dyes
are made water soluble by reducing with Sodium Sulphite and sodium hydroxide. If
dye are still insoluble than small amount of Sodium Hydro Sulphite is added with warm
water. Once the dye becomes water soluble, it is applied by exhaust dyeing method.
10
After completion of dyeing, Sulfur dyes are again converted into water insoluble by
oxidation process. These dyes are generally used for darker shades especially Navy
blues, Jet black, Brown and Khakhi colors. These dyes are not having full spectrum of
colors, true yellow color is not available in this dye category.
Properties
Sulfur dyes are relatively easy
to dye cellulosic bre with OH OH
NO2
good-to-excellent washes -
O O
-
and lights fastness at a low N N
UNIT - II
O O
cost. It produces a complete
NO2
range of colors in dull shade Sulphur Black, CI 53185 Leuco Sulphur Black - 1, CI 53185
and gives poor light fastness
in pastel shades. These NO2 H H
dyes are mainly used for N N
N
H
dyeing black, brown, navy SO3Na
blue or olive, in medium to O2N

OH
HO
dark shades. Some yellows Sulphur Blue Dyes, CI 53235 Sulphur Brilliant Green, CI 53570
and blues shades are also
available but there is only one Pic.2.6 Structure of Sulfur Dyes
red and a green dye.
Sometimes, these dyes are also used for

improving the wash fastness of the Direct dyed
fabric called topping.
Sulfur dyes are having good fastness to light,

washing, dry cleaning and perspiration. However,
these dyes have poor fastness to chlorine
bleach. Sulfur dyed materials can not be stored
for longer periods at higher than normal room
temperature because in presence of moisture , It
tends to oxidize and form sulfuric acids, and then
this acid cause tendering to cellulose fabric. Due
to this tendering process, sometimes the color of
the fabric also changes and become dull. This is
Pic.2.7:Color of Sulfur Dyes
called bronziness of the shade.
11
2.2.5 Reactive Dyes

Reactive dyes are water soluble dyes, which are anionic in nature. Since these type of
dyes react with bers and make covalent type of bonding with the ber, hence they are
called Reactive dyes. These dyes can be classied as hot brand reactive dyes and cold
brand dyes.
Procion (Triazine type)-H, is a hot type
of reactive dye and it react with cellulose O NH2
in presence of sodium carbonate at SO3Na
the temperature range of 75-90C.
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Procion-C is cold type of reactive dyes,

reacts at room temperature in presence O N SO2CH2CH2OSO3Na
H
of sodium carbonate.
Ramazol is another type of reactive
dyes (Vinyl sulfone reactive dye) and CI Reactive Blue 19
react in presence of base and under
goes elimination reaction to form vinyl- Pic.2.8 Structure Of Reactive Dye
sulfone group, which then combines
with cellulose and make bonding. It is a time consuming process.
These dyes are primarily used for cotton and other cellulose ber at an alkaline pH of
9-12. However, these dyes can also be used for wool, silk and polyamide bers in weak
acidic dye baths.
Application
Reactive dyes can be applied by exhaust method, as well as pad batch method also.
Reactive dyes are available in complete range of colors. They are very bright in colors.
These dyes are having very good fastness to washing, Good-very good fastness to
light, Good fastness to dry cleaning, perspiration, crocking and poor fastness to chlorine
bleaching.
It is very easy to obtain level dyeing using reactive dyes. These dyes are having high
exibility in the choice of method of application of dyeing.
Cost of using reactive dyeing is high, because of price, loss of dyes during application
and extensive washing. These dyes take excessive time for the dyeing process.
12
2.2.6 Disperse Dyes

These dyes were originally developed for the dyeing of cellulose acetate but now a
days, they are used to dye nylon, cellulose triacetate and acrylic bres too.
These dyes were largely used for dyeing of polyester material. OH O NH2
Disperse dyes are Non-ionic aromatic compounds with relatively

low molecular weight and has an extremely low solubility Br
in water. These dyes are available in the form of powders,

NH2 O OH
granular, liTuid or paste form. These dyes can be sublimize at
higher temperature and this sublimation properties of Disperse CI Disperse Blue 56
UNIT - II
dyes at high temperature is used in the transfer printing and
rapid dyeing process.
Dyeing of polyester is generally carried out at high O NH2
temperature and high pressure. These dyes are also used O
for heat transfer printing. Disperse dyes produces very
good range of shades except dark blue and black. These
dyes are having good -excellent fastness to perspiration, O OH
crocking and dry cleaning and Fair-Good fastness to light CI Disperse Red 60
and washing. When these dyes are used on acetate, it Pic.2.9 Structure of
exhibit poor fastness to light and subject to gas fading. Disperse Dye
2.2.7 Basic Dyes

Basic dyes are derived from salts of tri phenyl methane -
CI H2N+ NH2
derivatives. These are water-soluble dyes and contains
CH3
cationic group. These dyes are mainly used for dyeing of
acrylic and mod acrylics materials. Apart from these, basic
dyes can also be used for effectively dyeing of wool and silk NH2
but with poor fastness properties. It can also be used for Basic Dye Meganta
dyeing of nylon.
+
(H3C)2N N(CH3)2
Some variety of polyester can also be dyed with Basic
class of dyes. A basic dye produces complete range of
bright color with Good color fastness to light, washing, CI
-
perspiration and crocking for acrylic and mod acrylic. CI
However, it exhibit very poor fastness to washing and
light on wool and silk. Basic blue-1, CI 42025
Pic.2.10 Structure of Basic Dye
13
2.2.8 Acid Dyes

These dyes are sodium salt of sulphonic acid
that are having very good afnity to wool and OH O NH2
silk bre under acidic medium. These dyes NaO3S
are available in a form of salts and are water-
soluble. These dyes are applied in acid medium
SO3Na
by exhaust method. Acid dyes are mainly used
for dyeing of wool and silk. However, Acrylic, NH2 O OH
nylon and spandex can also be dyed with acid CI Acid Blue 45
dyes with excellent fastness properties.
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Pic.2.11 Structure of Acid Dye

An acid dye produces complete range of color
except bright red and greenish blue. However, some of the bright colors tend to bleed
while some colors have good colorfastness to light, dry cleaning and crocking. Few of
the Acid dye have poor fastness to washing.
2.2.9 Chrome / Mordant / Metallic Dyes

In this class of dyes, Metallic salt of cobalts, aluminum or copper are added to dye
molecules for improving fastness properties of the dyes. These dyes are generally
water soluble in nature and are applied in acidic medium. Mordent dyes takes more
time compare to other class of dyeing. These dyes can be applied in ber, yarn or fabric
form.
Metallic dyes are effectively used for dyeing of wool & silk, where maximum wet fastness
is reTuired.
However, Acrylic, nylon, and spandex can also be dyed with mordent dyes. Mordent
dyes have excellent fastness to perspiration and washing. Good fastness to light and
dry cleaning and very good fastness to crocking.
H2O
O
H2
H2
O
+
+
Na O Cr
Na
O
O
S O OH HO S O
N O
N
Acid Blue 158 Pre metallized Acid dyes
Pic.2.12 Structure of Metal Complex Dye
14
2.3 The Selection of Dyes

There are various choices available to dye given fabric. The main criteria for selection of
dyes depend upon the following factor.
End uses of fabric.
Fiber content.
Fabric structure.
ReTuirement of color fastness.
Penetration and absorption of dyes.
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Cost of dye stuff.
Methods of application etc.
2.4 Dyeing Objectives

The main objectives of dyeing are.
To impart color to the Textile substrates [bers, yarns, fabrics & garments]
uniformly and producing uniform leveling.
To achieve acceptable durability of color to further treatments in production and
normal end use.
To reproduce the reTuired shade from batch to batch.
To use reasonably priced dyes and dyeing procedure.
To provide and use eco friendly process.
Fixing the color in the shortest possible time.
2.5 Dyeing Methods

Textile materials can be dyed using following methods
1. Batch Dyeing.
2. Continuous Dyeing.
3. Semi-continuous Dyeing Processes.
Various type of dyeing methods are used in the industry to dye the textile materials such
as bre dyeing, yarn dyeing, fabric dyeing, and garment dyeing. Apart from these some
of the bre, which are difcult to dye in a conventional dyeing process can be dyed as
Dope Dyeing Process.
15
The type of dying process used depends on several things including type of material
(ber, yarn, fabric, fabric construction and garment), type of ber, size of fabric lots and
Tuality reTuirements in the dyed fabric.
Machinery used for dyeing must be resistant to attack by acids, bases, and other auxiliary
chemicals and dyes. Stainless steel is normally used as the construction material for all
parts of dyeing machines that will come in contact with dye formulations.
2.6 Batch Dyeing Processes

Batch processes are the most commonly used to dye textile materials. Batch dyeing is
UNIT - II
also called exhaust dyeing method, because the dye slowly migrating from a dye bath
to the material being dyed over a relatively longer period of time. The dye is said to be
exhaust -from the dye bath to the substrate. Textile substrates can be dyed in batch
processes in almost any stage of their assembly into a textile product including ber,
yarn, fabric or garment. The main advantage of the batch dyeing process is , exibility
in color selection and cost of dyeing is lower.
Some batch dyeing machines operate at below 100C temperatures only. Closed type
of dyeing machine are manufactured in such a ways so that it can be pressurized and
provides the capability to dye more than 100C temperatures. cotton, rayon, nylon, wool
and some other bers dye well at temperatures below 100C. Polyester and some other
synthetic bers dye more easily at temperatures higher than 130C.
There are three general types of batch dyeing machines:
Machines in which the fabric is circulated

Machines in which the dye liTuor is circulated while the material being dyed is
stationary and
Machines in which both dye liTuor and material are circulated.
Fabrics and garments are commonly dyed in machines in which the fabric is circulated.
The formulation is in turn agitated by movement of the material being dyed. Fiber, yarn
and fabric can all be dyed in machines which hold the material stationary and circulate
the dye liTuor. Jet dyeing is the best example of a machine that circulates both the
fabric and the dye bath. Jet dye machines are excellent for knit fabrics, but woven
fabrics can also be dyed using jet machines. The some of the examples of batch dyeing
machines are Jigger dyeing machine, Winch dyeing machine, soft ow dyeing machine
and others.
16
Optimizing the Batch Dyeing Process
For any dyers, the ultimate dream is to get the maximum out of the process of dyeing
at minimal cost. For a batch dyeing process, the following techniTues can prove to be
effective for optimum utilization of the machine and cost of dyeing.
Use machinery that are tted with latest state-of-the-art automatic controllers.
Control of temperature and other dyeing cycle parameters.
Indirect system of cooling and heating.
Innovative hoods and doors that reduces losses of steam and temperature.
UNIT - II
Choosing the machinery that is exactly sized for the batch that needs to be
processed.
Also conrmation that it is operated exactly within the specied range of nominal
material to liTuor ratios for which it is designed.
It has been observed that machines that are operated with a consistent material to liTuor
ratio while being loaded at 60 percent level of their nominal capacity gives optimum
results.
With yarn dyeing machines this level can stretch to even 30 of the nominal capacity.
Opting new machineries which adheres to the following reTuirements:
LiTuor ratio that is low-or-ultra-low.
Complete in process separation of bath from substrate.
Mechanism that involves smooth internal separation of process liTuor.
Mechanical liTuor extraction that brings the carry-over to minimum.
Reduced cycle duration.
Replacement of conventional overow-ood rinsing method with methods like
drain and ll or other methods (for example smart rinsing for fabric).
Proper re-use of rinsed water for the next dyeing session.
Re-use of the dye bath if technical considerations allows.
2.7 Continuous Dyeing Processes

In the continuous dyeing process, textile substrates are continuously fed into a dyeing
range. The speeds of dyeing range can vary between 50 to 250 meters per minute
depending on the type of the machine and type of fabric used.
17
A continuous dyeing process typically consists of the following:
Dye application.
Dye xation with heat or chemicals and
Rinsing or Washing.
Continuous dyeing has been found to be most suitable for woven fabrics. Mostly
continuous dye ranges are designed for dyeing blends of polyester and cotton. The step
of padding plays a key role in the operation of continuous dyeing. Sometimes Nylon
carpets are also dyed in continuous processes, but the design ranges for them is at
UNIT - II
fabrics. Warps yarns are also dyed in continuous process in denim industry.
Very good examples of such warp dyeing are long chain warp dyeing and slasher
dyeing using indigo. A continuous dye range has been found useful and economically
sustainable for dyeing long runs of a given shade. One important factor that separates
continuous dyeing from batch dyeing is the tolerance factor for color variation. That is
more for continuous dyeing as compared to batch dyeing.
This is because of two reasons:
a) The speed of the process.
b) Presence of a large number of process variables which affects dye application.
Some of the popular methods in continuous dyeing process are Pad-steam, Wet-steam,
thermosol dyeing, space dyeing, pad-steam dyeing and long chain warp dyeing.
Optimizing of Continuous Dyeing Process

Continuous and to some extent semi-continuous dyeing processes both are less prone
to water consumption than batch dyeing, but results in high concentration of residues. If
some strict control measures are taken up then it is possible to reduce these losses of
concentrated liTuor. The following steps may prove useful.
Applying low add-on liTuor application systems along with minimizing of volume
capacity of the dip through when pad dyeing techniTues are in operation.
Adoption of latest dispensing systems, where the chemicals get dispensed on-
line as separate streams. They get mixed only at the moment just before the
delivery to the applicator.
Using any of the following systems for dosing of the padding liTuor. Important to
18
know that it should be strictly according to the measurement of the pick up.
A proper measurement of the dyeing liTuor Tuantity consumption in comparison
to the processed fabric.
The resulting values thus obtained are processed automatically and applied in
preparing the next comparable batch.
Application Technique of Rapid Batch Dyeing

Here the dyestuff solution is prepared just in time, with steps that are based on on-
line measurement of the pick-up. This proves better than those dyestuffs that are kept
UNIT - II
prepared already for the whole batch before the commencement of the dyeing batch. To
increase washing efciency based on the proven principles like reduction of carry-over
and counter-current washing.
2.8 Semi Continuous Dyeing Process

The process of semi-continuous dyeing consists of pad-batch, pad-jig, pad-roll. In this
process, the fabric is rst passed though with the dye-liTuor, that is called a padding
machine or padding mangle. Then it is subjected to batch wise treatment in a jigger. It
could also be stored with a slow rotation for many hours. In the pad-batch this treatment
is done at room temperature while in pad-roll it is done at increased temperature by
employing a heating chamber. This helps in xation of the dyes on to the ber. After this
xation process, the material in full width is thoroughly cleansed and rinsed in continuous
washing machines.
There is only one point of difference between Continuous and semi-continuous dyeing
process, that in semi-continuous dyeing, the dye is applied continuously by a padding.
The xation and washing remains discontinuous. Material to LiTuor Ratio in semi-
continuous dyeing is not of much importance and is not taken as a parameter.
One of the widely used techniTues for semi-continuous dyeing process is the Pad Batch
Dyeing.
2.8.1 Solution Dyeing or Dope Dyeing or Mass Coloration

This type of dyeing process is generally used to dye polyethylene, polypropylene,
polyester and viscose rayon. Dope dyeing process is generally used for dyeing of
synthetic or semi- synthetic polymers. This method of coloring is actually a part of the
manufacturing process of Man made bers in which the coloring agents are mixed to
polymer solution of man made ber before it is extruded through a spinneret.
19
Some of the important feature of dope dyeing is as follows:
Dyed colors solution are fade proof under all conditions.
Color fastness to light is out standing and is mainly used for Draperies, out
door carpets, Automotive fabrics and other applications where long sun light
exposure is reTuired.
To produce darker shades in blue, black, brown and green widely used in fashion
apparel fabrics because, range of colors is very limited.
Very expensive.
UNIT - II
Perfect color and re-production consistency from dye lot to lot can be achieved.
Solution-dyed fabrics of acetate do not gas fade.
2.8.2 Dyeing Machines / Equipment
Objectives of Dyeing Machines
To provide maximum contact between the dye liTuor and the bers within reasonable
amount of time, without causing damage to the substrates.
&ODVVLFDWLRQRI7H[WLOH'\HLQJ0DFKLQHV
For a broader understanding, of the dyeing machines, the Dyeing machines are classied
into two types:
1. Rope Dyeing Machine
2. Open Width Dyeing Machine
The selection process of the dyeing machines i.e. whether to opt for rope or open-width
is totally dependent on the ability of the fabric to withstand the mechanical demands that
is involved in the two processes. Both the type of machine is eTually popular. Popular
varieties of rope dyeing machines are jets and becks, while the popular varieties of
open-width dyeing machines are beams, followed by jigs and pad-batch.
Rope Dyeing & Rope Dyeing Machine
In the case of rope dyeing machines, the fabric gets transported via the machine in a
20
loosely collapsed form that looks like a rope. Rope dyeing has the tendency for abrasion
of fabrics and result in permanent, cracks, creases and streaks.
Open Width Dyeing Machines
In the case of open width dyeing machine, the fabric gets maintained at all times in a at
and open condition. As Open-width dyeing works by applying tension to fabrics and this
has the potential to form edge marks along with creases in tubular knit goods.
Types of Textile Dyeing Machines
UNIT - II
Most of the Textile Dyeing Machines utilize latest advancement in the dyeing technology
to give high capacity dyeing along with uniformity and smooth nishes.
1. Beam Dyeing Machine
2. Hank Dyeing Machine
3. Jet Dyeing Machine
4. Jig Dyeing Machine
5. Paddle Dyeing Machine
6. Package Dyeing Machine
7. Winch Dyeing Machine
8. Sample Dyeing Machine
2.8.3 Stock Dyeing

In this process of dyeing, loose bers are dyed by circulating the dye liTuor continuously
through bers.
Important Features of Stock Dyeing:

Expensive method of dyeing
Production is less
10-15 waste of dyed bers during dyeing
Excellent penetration of dye in to ber
21
Fashion risk - It means that nal color of the fabric has to be decided in earliest
stage in its manufacture
Reason for use:

Heather-like effect for woolen yarns or to produce Melange yarns
UNIT - II
Pic.2.13 Stock Dyeing Machine

2.8.4 Yarn Dyeing
In this type of Dyeing machines, dyeing is carried out in yarn stage. There are various
types of yarn dyeing machines; such as Slacer Dyeing Machine, Rope Dyeing Machine,
Hank dyeing Machine ,Package Dyeing and Space dyeing.
Important Features of Yarn Dyeing

Some of these dyeing machines are cheaper than Stock Dyeing Machine:
Excellent color penetrations of dye into ber than piece dyeing
22
Reason for Use,

To produce stripes, plaids and checks and other multi colored designs.
UNIT - II
Pic.2.14: Yarn Dyeing Machine
2.8.5 Skein Dyeing
In this type of dyeing loosely wound hanks (skeins) of yarn are immersed into dye
containers.
Important features of Skein Dyeing:

It is Suitable for knits and carpets where a fuller bulk is more desirable
Cotton, woolen, silk and bulk acrylic yarns are generally dyed by this method.
23
UNIT - II
Pic.2.15 Skein Dyeing Machine

2.8.6 Package Dyeing
In this type of dyeing, yarns are wind on package in the form of spools, cones or similar
units and these packages of yarn are stacked on perforated rods in a rack and then
immersed in a tank. In that tank, the dye is forced outward from the rods under pressure
through the spools and then back to the packages towards the center to penetrate the
entire yarn as thoroughly as possible.
Important Features of Package Dyeing
More suitable for woven and knitted fabrics.
Can be performed larger scale.
Gives uniform results.
Yarn package is stationary and dye liTuor
is circulated from inside to outside of the
package.
Package tension is critical factor to get uniform
dyeing; Can be used for to due loose bers,
slivers, warp yarns and fabric with proper
modication.
2.8.7 Beam Dyeing Pic.2.16 Package Dyeing Machine
It is a larger version of package dyeing, in which, Yarns or full width of woven or knitted
fabric is wound on a perforated cylindrical beams and enclosed in to a container. Dyestuff
24
is circulated under pressure through perforation, same as package dyeing machines. In

this type of dyeing Warp yarns are dyed in the solid colour, prior to weaving or warp
knitting
Important Features Beam Dyeing

Provides for good color absorption.
Better color fastness than piece dyed methods.
Advantages of a Beam Dyeing Machine

The fabric is put under controlled tension, and is wound on to a perforated beam. This
UNIT - II
results in elimination of creases from the fabric. It also ensures total control of dimensions
of the roll of fabric. The fabric is not allowed to do any movement during the process of
dyeing. This actually means that there is no application of mechanical action on to the
fabric. As shown in the Pic.2.17, there is no movement of the fabric as the hydrostatic
pressure of the pump forces the dye liTuor through the fabric roll.
Pic.2.17 Beam Dyeing Machine

2.8.8 Piece Dyeing
In this method, dyeing of cloth is carried out, after it is being woven or knitted is known
as piece dyeing. It is the most common method of dyeing. The various methods used for
this type of dyeing include jet dyeing. Jig dyeing, pad dyeing and beam dyeing. Dyeing
is carried out in fabric stage, generally to produce single solid color in the substrate.
2.8.9 Winch Dyeing/Beck Dyeing

It is a conventional type of dyeing machine consisting of a tub containing the dye liTuor
and an elliptical winch or reel which is located horizontally above the dye bath. In this
machine both the ends of fabric are stitched together to make continuous rope form and
is passed through the dye bath . The fabric is submerged in the dye bath and circulated
repeatedly. Fabric is held in a slack or loose condition during dyeing.
25
Important Features of Winch Dyeing

Mainly used for knits and
lightweight fabrics.
Filament yarn fabrics should not
be dyed.
Very light weight fabrics should
also be avoided.
Dyeing is carried out at high liTuor
UNIT - II
ratios. (1:20 to 1:50).
Disadvantages of Winch Dyeing

Low substantivity dyes (Reactive
dyes) are not advisable.
Pic.2.17 Winch Dyeing Machine
Difcult to maintain uniform temp
throughout the dye bath.
2.8.10 Space Dyeing

In this method, the yarn is dyed at intervals along its length. For these two procedures-
knit- de-knit method and OPI Space-Dye Applicator- are adopted. In the rst method,
the yarn is knitted on either a circular or at-bed knitting machine and the knitted cloth is
then dyed and subseTuently it is de-knitted. Since the dye does not readily penetrate the
areas of the yarn where it crosses itself, alternated dyed and undyed spaces appear.
The OPI Space-Dye Applicator techniTue produces multi coloured space dyed yarns.
The yarns are dyed intermittently as they run at high speeds of upto 1000 yards (900
m) per minute through spaced dye baths with continuous subjection to shock waves
produced by compressed air assuming supersonic velocities.
2.8.11 Jig Dyeing Machine

In this machine, Fabric is dyed in its open or full width. The machine consists of a small
tub and two drawing rollers located above the dye bath. First the fabric is wound around
one of the rollers; during dyeing the fabric is passed through the dye bath and rewind
on to the second roller. When all the fabric is passed through the dye bath the direction
of movement is reversed, this would be repeated until the dyeing is completed. During
dyeing tension is imparted in length of the fabric:
26
Important Features of Jig Dyeing

Machine
Suitable for Medium Weight

fabrics & Heavy Weight Fabric.
Low liTuors ratios (1:2 to 1:6).
The consumption of chemicals
and energy is low.
In new jigs are eTuipped with
UNIT - II
devices that allow a reduction in
tension applied in lengthwise.
Pic.2.18 Jig Dyeing Machine
Limitation of Jig Dyeing Machine
Knitted and stretch woven fabrics can not be used.
Possibility of shade variation center to selvedge.
2.8.12 Jet Dyeing Machine:
Jet dyeing machines are a very efcient in term of contact between the dye liTuor and
fabric . In this machine both fabric and dye liTuor are in continuous movement. This
improves level of dyeing in shorter dyeing time. Fabric is circulated through the dye bath
in rope form. The movement of the fabric occurs by circulating the dye-liTuor through
a venturi jet. Jet dyeing machines are pressurized and dyeing can takes place at high
temperature 135-150C. Jets are builds to be used at low liTuor ratios between 10:1 and
5:1 and lower.
Advantages of Jet Dyeing Machines:
Less consumption of water, energy and chemicals
Shorter dyeing cycle time
Efcient and high production rate
Delicate woven / Knits, textured and lightweight fabrics can be dyed.
27
There are three types of Jet Dyeing Machines

(i) Jet Dyeing - Overow Dyeing Machine
(ii) Soft Flow Dyeing Machine
(iii) Airow Dyeing Machine
Overow Dyeing Machines are designed for use in delicate knitted and woven fabrics
that are made up of natural as well as synthetic bres. They are also extensively used
in the production of carpets. The main difference between jet and overows machines
is that in jet machines the fabric gets transported by a bath that ows at high speed
UNIT - II
through the nozzle, while in Overow Dyeing Machine it is the gravitational force of the
liTuor overow that is responsible for fabric transportation.
)XQFWLRQLQJRID2YHURZ'\HLQJ0DFKLQH
In a typical Overow Dyeing Machine a winch that is not motor driven usually is located
in the top side of the machine where the fabric is hanged. A longer length of textile is
made to hang from the exit side of the winch as compared to the inlet side. By applying
the force of gravitation the longer length of textile is pulled downward more strongly
than the shorter one. ConseTuently the fabric is soaked in the bath without any sort of
tension.
Pic.2.19: OveroZ Dyeing Machine

$GYDQWDJHVRI2YHURZ'\HLQJ0DFKLQH
No Evaporative Losses- As the dyeing vessel is closed, there is no evaporative losses
of steam from the dye bath. Further, depending on the situation the temperature may be
28
raised to more than 100C.

No Build Up Of Steam Condensate In The Dye Bath- The latest technology implies that
the Dye bath gets heated by a heat transducer which is steam driven. This technology
apart from being very efcient ensures that there is no build up of steam condensate in
the dye bath.
Low Liquor Ratios- Dyeing is conducted at relatively low liTuor ratios, e.g. 10:1 and
may be lesser resulting in substantial savings in water and energy.
Excellent Dye Liquor Contact- Excellent dye liTuor contact with the fabric rope results
in better and more improved level dyeing.
UNIT - II
Computer Control- The machines are operated by computer and hence, operator error
is eliminated.
(ii) Soft Flow Dyeing Machine

In the soft ow dyeing machine water is used for keeping the fabric in circulation.
The Connectional difference of this eTuipment from a conventional jets that
operates with a hydraulic system is that the fabric rope is kept circulating during
the whole processing cycle (right from loading to unloading). There is no stopping
of liTuor or fabric circulation for usual drain and ll steps.
The principle working behind the techniTue is very uniTue. There is a system
for fresh water to enter the vessel via a heat exchanger to a special interchange
zone. At the same time the contaminated liTuor is allowed channel out through
a drain without any sort of contact with the fabric or for that matter the new bath
in the machine.
Key Features of Soft Flow Dyeing Machine

Signicant savings in processing time.
Savings in water that is around 50.
Excellent separation of different streams results in optimum heat recovery and a
distinct possibility of further use or a dedicated treatment.
Types of Soft Flow Dyeing Machine

A few of the commercially popular brands along with their particular technical specications
are listed below.
29
(A) Multi Nozzle Soft Flow Dyeing Machine

Technical Features:
Very Low LiTuor ratio - around 1:1 (Wet Fabric) Can Reach High Temp. up to
140C
Easy to Dye 30 to 450 g/mt.sT. of Fabrics (Woven & Knitted Fabrics)
Number of Very Soft-ow Nozzles
No Pilling Effect
UNIT - II
Wide Capacity
(B) High Temperature High Pressure Soft Flow Dyeing Machine

Technical Features:
Compact Body made of Stainless Steel.
High Efciency Heat Exchanger for 4uick Heating / Cooling.
Heating Rate - Around 4C/Min upto 90C - Around 3C/Min up to 135C At steam
pressure of 6 Bar.
Cooling Rate- Around 4C/ Min At Water Pressure of 4 Bar and 15C.
Maximum Working Temp is 135C.
Maximum Working Pressure of 3.2 Bar.
Control Manual as well as Automatic.
Heavy Duty Stainless Steel Pump.
LLL-HW'\HLQJ0DFKLQH$LURZ'\HLQJ0DFKLQH
This is another development of the very popular jet dyeing machines. The main difference
between the Air Flow Machine and Jet Dyeing machine is that the airow machine utilizes
an air jet instead of the water jet for keeping the fabric in circulation. Typically the fabric
is allowed to pass into the storage area that has a very small amount of free liTuor. This
results in a reduction in consumption of water, energy and chemicals. Here the fabric
does not remain in touch with the liTuor (the bath used is below the basket that holds
the fabric in circulation). This invariably means that the bath conditions can be altered
without having any impact on the process phase of the substrate.
30
$GYDQWDJHVRI$LURZ0DFKLQH
Completely Separated circuit for liTuor circulation without getting in touch with the
textile
Bath less Dyeing Operation
Rinsing Process offers all the added benets of continuous processing as it is no
longer a batch operation
Extremely Low LiTuor Ratio
Virtually Non Stop Process
UNIT - II
Comparatively lesser energy reTuirement due to faster heating/cooling and optimum
heat recovery from the hot exhausted dye liTuors
Reduction in consumption of the chemicals (e.g. salt) dosage of which is based on
the amount of dye bath
Lesser Water Consumption savings up to 50 from the Conventional Jet Dyeing
Machines
Sensitivity towards Ecology
Economical Operation
More Safety while Dyeing
UniTue Water Saving Capacity Of Air Flow Machine
Water remains a perpetual challenge for the world as the most precious resource
and textile dyeing processes are notorious for consuming gallons of water. The latest
technology of Airow Machine surely takes care of such problem.
Airow dyeing machine can operate at a liTuor ratio that is even below 1:5 while
a conventional hydraulic dyeing system generally operates with a liTuor ratio of
about 1:10. It is worthwhile to know that exchanging the liTuor ratio of 1:10 from a
single 300 kg dye lot to ratio of 1:5, can result in water savings corresponding to an
average monthly water consumption of one person in a big country like Germany.
2.8.13 Garment Dyeing

This type of dyeing is generally carried out for the garments of non-tailored categories,
such as sweaters swat shirts, hosiery and panty hoses etc. Tailored items like suits or
dresses cannot be dyed as garments because the difference in shrinkage of the various
components of the garments will provide the distortion and misshape the article.
31
Garment dyeing is done by, placing suitable

number of garments depending on the capacity
of the machine into large nylon net bag. Loosely
packed 10-50 bags are then placed in dye bath
and kept agitated by a motor driven paddle.
This type of machine is also called as Paddle
dyer
Important Features of Garment Dyeing:

Less fashion risk
UNIT - II
Material need not be dyed until shortly

before the actual sale of the merchandise Pic.2.20: Garment Dyeing Machine
Limitations
All fabric used in one garment must come from the same lot of fabric.
Fabric must be tested for shrinkage before cutting of garments, and must be given
reTuired tolerance to allow for shrinkage so that size will be accurate.
Thread must be selected carefully and tested to be sure it will accept the dye in the
same way as the fabric.
Labels, buttons and zippers must be compatible with the garment fabric in terms of
reaction to the dye and shrinkage.
2.8.14 Special Dyeing Effects
Cross Dyeing
Yarn, fabric or even garment made with two or more generic ber types Blends having
different dyeing Tualities is dyed a single dye bath containing different classes of dyes.
E.g. If a fabric is made of 67 Polyester and 33 cotton bres. In such case both
the bre reTuires two different classes of dyes. And if we choose one colour to dye the
polyester bre (say Yellow) than any colour other than yellow can be used in the to dye
the cotton, then such type of dyeing is called Cross dyeing.
If different bers are blended in the same yarn a Heather-like effect is obtained. Different
ber content yarns used in fabric construction can obtain plaids, stripes and checks.
32
UNIT - II
Pic.2.21 Cross Dyeing Fabric
Union Dyeing
Union dyeing can be dened in the blended fabrics. If a fabric is made of 67 Polyester
and 33 cotton bres. In such case both the bre reTuires two different class of dyes.
And if we choose one colour to dye the polyester bre than similar colour must be used in
the same intensity to dye the cotton, then such type of dyeing is called Union dyeing.
It means that Union dyeing is achieving single solid color on blended fabrics.
Warp-Beam Dyeing
It is similar to package dyeing but more economical. Here, yarn is wound on to a
perforated warp beam, immersed in a tank and dyed under pressure.
Batchwise or Exhaust Dyeing

This method is uses lot of water, because such type of machines are designed with high
material to LiTuor Ratio (ratio between water and goods) This should immerge the
goods into dye solution for a long time in order to let the dye penetrate into the goods.
This will lead to produce more waste water than the continuous process.
Terminology Used in Dyeing Process

Material to Liquor Ratio (M:L Ratio)
Volume of water taken in relation to weight of material (bre, yarn or fabric)
33
E.g. M:L :: 1:10 means, for 1 kg of textile material, 10 litres of water taken for dyeing
% Dyebath Exhaustion: Amount of dye gone from solution phase to bre phase at the
end of dyeing period expressed in terms of . It is a measure of dye substantivity. The
term is mainly applicable to batchwise dyeing.
% Fixation: Amount of dye xed (interacted) with bre after washing/soaping.
2.9 Styles of Dyeing

Resist Dyeing
Resist-dyeing is a term for a number of traditional methods of dyeing textiles with
UNIT - II
patterns. Methods are used to resist or prevent the dye from reaching all the cloth,
thereby creating a pattern and ground. The most common forms use wax, some type
of paste, or a mechanical resist that manipulates the cloth such as tying or stitching.
Another form of resist involves using a chemical agent in a specic type of dye that
will repel another type of dye printed over the top. The most well-known varieties today
include tie-dye and batik.
Basic Methods
Wax or Resist: Melted wax or some form of paste is applied to cloth before being dipped
in dye. Wherever the wax has seeped through the fabric, the dye will not penetrate.
Sometimes several colors are used, with a series of dyeing, drying and waxing steps.
The wax may also be applied to another piece of cloth to make a stencil, which is then
placed over the cloth, and dye applied to the assembly. this is known as resist printing.
Paper stencils may also be used as another type of resist printing. The same method is
used in art in printmaking or in one form of screen printing.
Mechanical Resist: The cloth is tied, stitched, or clamped using clothes pegs or wooden
blocks to shield areas of the fabric.
Chemical Resist: a modern textile printing method, commonly achieved using two
different classes of ber reactive dyes, one of which must be of the vinyl sulfone type. A
chemical-resisting agent is combined with dye Type A, and printed using the screen print
method and allowed to dry. A second dye, Type B, is then printed overtop. The resist
agent in Type A chemically prevents Type B from reacting with the fabric, resulting in a
crisp pattern/ground relationship.
Tie-Dye
Tie-dye is a process of resist dyeing textiles or clothing which is made from knit or woven
34
fabric, usually cotton; typically using bright colors. It is a modern version of traditional
dyeing methods used in many cultures throughout the world. Tie-dye can also describe
the resulting pattern or an item which features this pattern. Tie-dyeing became fashionable
in the West in the late 1960s and early 1970s as part of hippie style.
Tie-dyeing is accomplished by folding the material into a pattern, and binding it with
string or rubber bands. Dye is then applied to only parts of the material. The ties prevent
the entire material from being dyed. Designs are formed by applying different colors of
dyes to different sections of the wet fabric. A wet t-shirt is much easier to use rather than
just dyeing on a dry t-shirt. Once complete, the material is rinsed, and the dye is set.
UNIT - II
Mudmee Tie-Dye
Mudmee tie-dye is mainly created in Thailand and neighboring part of Laos. It uses
different shapes and colors than other types of tie-dye, and the colors are, in general,
more subdued. Another difference is that the base color is black.
Fold And Patterns

Below is a list of common modern tie-dyeing folds and patterns.
Spiral
Spiral patterns are created by gathering a small section, usually with a clothes pin or
a kitchen fork, in the middle of the fabric and slowly rotating the piece creating pleats
of fabric arranged in swirls around a central point. It is then gathered into a at round
bundle and the different wedges of the circular bundle are usually dyed different colors
to create a greater spiral effect.
V
The V shape is achieved by folding a shirt in half vertically, then a line is drawn diagonally
from the shoulder area down to the center fold of the shirt. The fabric is then accordingly
folded along the line and bound into one or more areas to which the dye is applied. This
will show in the shape of a V.
Random
This category can hold several different patterns, the majority of which have nothing to
do with each other; they can be combinations or they can be as chaotic as bundling the
item to be dyed.
35
Random Circles
This effect is made by tying knots with string or elastic bands in different places. More
the distance from the centre of the fabric that is tied, the larger the circles.
Batik
Batik is a cloth that traditionally uses a manual wax-resist dyeing techniTue. Batik or
fabrics with the traditional batik patterns are found in Indonesia, Japan, China, Azerbaijan,
India, Sri Lanka, Egypt, Nigeria, Senegal, Malaysia and Singapore ,Javanese traditional
batik, especially from Yogyakarta and Surakarta, has notable meanings rooted to the
Javanese conceptualization of the universe. Traditional colors include indigo, dark brown,
UNIT - II
and white, which represent the three major Hindu Gods (Brahm, Visnu and iva). This
is related to the fact that natural dyes are most commonly available in indigo and brown.
Certain patterns can only be worn by noble people; traditionally, wider stripes or wavy
lines of greater width indicated higher rank. ConseTuently, during Javanese ceremonies,
one could determine the royal lineage of a person by the cloth he or she was wearing.
Types and Variations of Batik
Javanese Kraton Batik (Javanese court Batik)Javanese kraton (court) Batik is the
oldest batik tradition known in Java. This type of batik has earthy color tones such as
black, brown, and dark yellow (sogan), sometimes against a white background. The
motifs of traditional court batik have symbolic meanings. Some designs are restricted:
larger motifs can only be worn by royalty; and certain motifs are not suitable for women,
or for specic occasions (e.g., weddings).The palace courts (keratonan) in two cities in
central Java are known for preserving and fostering batik traditions.
Surakarta (Solo City) Batik Traditional Surakarta court batik is preserved and fostered
by the Susuhunan and Mangkunegaran courts. The main areas that produce Solo batik
are the Laweyan and Kauman districts of the city. Solo batik typically has sogan as the
background color. PasarKlewer near the Susuhunan palace is a retail trade center.
Yogyakarta Batik Traditional Yogya batik is preserved and fostered by the Yogyakarta
Sultanate and the Pakualaman court. Usually Yogya Batik has white as the background
color. Fine batik is produced at Kampung Taman district. Beringharjo market near
Malioboro street is well known as a retail batik trade center in Yogyakarta
Pesisir Batik (Coastal Batik)

Pesisir batik is created and produced by several areas on the northern coast of Java and
on Madura. As a conseTuence of maritime trading, the Pesisir batik tradition was more
36
open to foreign inuences in textile design, coloring, and motifs, in contrast to inland
batik, which was relatively independent of outside inuences. For example, Pesisir batik
utilizes vivid colors and Chinese motifs such as clouds, phoenix, dragon, Tilin, lotus,
peony, and oral patterns.
Pekalongan Batik The most famous Pesisir Batik production area is the town of
Pekalongan in Central Java province. Batik Pekalongan was inuenced by both
DutchEuropean and Chinese motifs, for example the buketan motifs was inuenced by
European ower bouTuet.
Exercise
UNIT - II
Fill in the blanks
1. ..are used to impart color to the textile materials.
2. ..must have substantively to the ber during dyeing stage.
3. . must have solubility in water during dyeing stage.
4. Durability of the .depends upon binders used.
5. Vat dyes are .organic compounds and not substantive to cellulose.
6. .are derived from aryl amides organic compounds.
7. .. derived from formulation of Benzedrine salts.
8. .. derived from the formulation of compounds containing sulfur.
9. Ramazol is . type of reactive dye.
10. can be used for heat transfer printing.
11. .. dyeing is generally carried out high temperature/pressure
12. ... dyes are derived from salts of tri phenyl methane derivatives.
13. are water-soluble and contains cationic group.
14. .. are water-soluble and are applied in acid medium; Mainly used for wool
and silk; acrylic, nylon and spandex.
15. Metallic salt of cobalts, aluminum or copper are added in .. dye molecules
for xing dyes.
37
16. In .. the coloring agents are mixed to polymer solution of man made ber
before it is extruded through a spinneret.
17. Yarn, fabric or even garment made with two or more generic ber types Blends
having different dyeing Tualities is dyed a single dye bath containing different
classes of dyes is called as .
18. ..is achieving single solid color on blended fabrics.
Write short notes on
1. Stock dyeing machines

UNIT - II
2. Yarn dyeing machines
3. Winch dyeing machines
4. Jig dyeing Machine
5. Jet dyeing Machine
6. Garment Dyeing
7. Cross dyeing
8. Union dyeing
9. Solution dyeing Dope Dyeing Mass Coloration
10. Write important feature of the following dyes

Vat dyes
Azoic/Napthol dyes
Direct dyes
Sulfur dyes
Reactive dyes
Disperse dyes
Basic dyes
Acid dyes
Chrome / mordant / metallic dyes
38
UNIT III
TEXTILE PRINTING
Learning Outcome
After nishing the unit, students will be able to understand
Various terminology used in textile printing.
Styles and methods involved in printing.
Various effects produced by various styles of printing.
Limitation of the printing methods.
Overview
In this unit the students will get to know about the printing, printing methods, techniTues
and various styles used in the mills. After studying this chapter student will be able to
recognize various types of prints available in the markets and how these prints are
UNIT - III
produced in the industry. They will also able to understand the limitation and advantages
of each types of prints.
TEXTILE PRINTING
Printing is a surface ornamentation techniTue, in which boundary of each colour are
xed by the manufacturer. Or we can say that Color designs are developed on fabrics
by printing with dyes and pigments in a paste form with specially designed machines.
Printing is used to apply coloring in localized areas only so it is also called localized
Dyeing. Printed fabrics usually have clear- cut edges in the printed portions on the
face of the fabric. Printing allows for great design exibility and relatively inexpensive
patterned fabric.
To restrict the boundary of the colour printing paste is prepared. Printing pastes main
ingredients are colouring matter and thickener, apart from these number of other
chemicals are also used in the printing paste which is having specic purpose. The
essential ingredients should be selected from the following.
I. Dyes/ Pigments
II. Solvents
III. Hygroscopic Agents
39
IV. Wetting Agents

V. Thickeners
VI. Oxidising Agents
VII. Reducing Agents
VIII. Catalyst
IX. Defomer or Defoaming Agents
X. Mild Oxidising Agents
XI. Acids or Alkalis
XII. Carriers
XIII. Miscellaneous Chemicals
Dyes or Pigments:- Dyes or Pigment are selected as per the Fibres and shade percent.
Such as Acid dyes should be used for Wool and silk printing, or Disperse dyes should be
used for the Polyester printing paste.
UNIT - III
Solvents:- Solvents are used for to dissolve the dyes and pigments and prevent
precipitation. Such as Water, Ethylene glycol, Diethylene glycol, Thiodiethylene glycol.
Hygroscopic Agents :- Urea and Glycerine are generally used as hygroscopic agents
in the Printing paste. They absorb sufcient amount of water and dissolve the dyes and
carries it deeper into the bres, during the xing of dyes in the printing .It also helps in
the subseTuent removal of printing paste in washing operation. Optimum amount of
Hygroscopic agents must be used in the printing paste for better results. If too much
Hygroscopic agents are used then we will not get sharp printed boundary, and if too less
is used then their will be lighter printed surface.
Wetting Agents :- Wetting agents are generally used to get the smooth and lump free
paste. In case of insoluble dyestuff like Vat, Napthol, and Sulphur dyes the wetting
agents are used. Turkey Red Oil is Most commonly used wetting agents.
Thickeners:- Thickener are used to provide the body to the printing paste. The main
objective of the thickener is to prevent the spreading of dyes beyond the specied
boundry. The thickener should be compatible with dyes and should not have afnity
or reactivity with dyes and other chemical present in the printing paste.The commonly
used thickener are Starches and Gums, Sodium Alginate, Carboxy Methyle cellulose,
Methyle Cellulose, ethyle cellulose and emulsion thickener.
40
Oxidizing Agents :- These are used for developing of nal colour in case of Solubilised
vat dyes, aniline black, etc.Sodium dichromate is used an oxidizing agents in Discharge
printing of Indigo. Some of the examples of Oxidising agents are Sodium bromate,
Chlorates, Nitrates, Nitrites, and Potassium Ferrocyanide.
Reducing Agents :- These chemicals are used mainly for discharge printing .Some
of the common discharging agents are Sodium hydrosulphite, Rangolite C (Sodium
Sulphoxylate Formaldehyde))and Sodium bisulphite.
Catalyst :- These are used to accelerate the rate of reaction of development of oxidizing
agents, reduce the risk of tendering of bres.Some of the common catalyst are Potassium
Ferrocyanide, Copper Sulphide, Ammonium Vanadate.
Defomer of Defoaming Agents :- The wetting agents present in the printing paste,
during continuous churning and mixing operation generate considerable amount of
foams, which produces lighter shades or faulty printing. To avoid this problem , Defoaming
agents are used .Emulsion of sulphated sperm oil and pine oil mixture are generally
used as Defomer.
UNIT - III
Mild Oxidizing Agents :- These are used to prevents the reduction of colour during
steaming. The commonly used chemical for mild oxidation is Sodium meta nitro benzene
sulphonate.
Acids or Acid liberating agents :- Weak acids like citric acid, tartaric acid are generally
used to adjust the pH of the Printing Paste. Sometimes acid liberating agents are also
used to create the acidic conditions at the time of steaming.Some of the examples of these
chemicals are Ammonium Chloride, Aluminium Sulphate, Ammonium sulphocyanide
etc.
Carriers :- They are mainly used for xing of disperse dyes on polyester or polyester
blents at temperature below 100C.
Miscellaneous Chemicals :- Cellulose ethers and esters are used as auxiliaries to
thicken the paste and protect the Dyes. These chemical dissolve in water but coagulate
on boiling, they also cogulate under alkaline condition.
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Printing can be divided in to two categories
1. Methods of Printing
2. Style of Printing
41
There are various methods of printing
Stencil Printing
Hand Block Printing
Hand Screen Printing
Flat Bed Screen Printing
Rotary Printing
Roller Printing
Digital or Inkjet Printing
3.1 Stencil Printing
This is the oldest method of printing in which design are cut out from at sheet of metal
or waterproof paper or plastic sheet or laminated sheet and colour is applied by brushing
or spraying on it.
UNIT - III
Advantages of Stencil Printing
This is simplest and cost effective method & does not reTuire expensive
eTuipment.
Change in design is rapid process and can be used to execute small order.
Great variety of graded colour effect can be achieved from one stencil by blending
different colours on different parts of stencils with one single stroke of brush.
Limitations of Stencil Printing
Complete rings or circles as well as unbroken lines can not be printed by this
method.
The process is manual and laborious.
This method is not suitable for large scale of production.
3.2 Block Printing
This is also very old and simplest method of printing in which the designs are engraved
on the seasoned Teak wood. This blocks are then immersed into the oil for several
weeks which makes it water and chemical resistant.
42
To print the correct registration of block on the cloth, Pitch Pins are xed around the
side of the block, which print tiny dots on the cloth, These pins are so arranged that they
coincide in the pattern and each impression joins up and make perfect print.
Advantages of Block Printing

It is simple to operate and does not reTuire expensive eTuipment.
There is no limitation of number of colours and reproduction of design is very easy.
The prints produced by this method are have great decorative value and
craftsmanship.
Limitations of Block Printing

This is slow process and cost of production is high.
Making a new blocks are time consuming and difcult.
It is somewhat difcult to join the each impression of repeat perfectly each time.
UNIT - III
Printing of very long blocks or wide repeat is not possible due to weight and
handling issues.
It is difcult to produce ne lines by this method.
3.3 Hand Screen-Printing

This is the best method for printing of low yardage, samples of exclusive limited Tuality
of designs. Screens are generally made of polyester fabric. Sometimes this fabric is also
called bolting Cloth, because fabric is tightened on a light weight metal frame. In this
type of printing large repeat sizes are possible (up to 120).
Advantage of Hand Screen Printing

Wet-on dry prints effect possible.
Better penetration of color than roller prints due to heavier lay-on of color.
Acceptable to all woven & knitted fabrics.
Rapid preparation of screens and rapid pattern changes over possible.
Ability to print cut garment parts and small items (towels, scarves etc.)
43
Limitations of Hand Screen Printing

Half tone designs are not possible
Fine-line paisley prints are not possible
Lengthwise stripe designs can not be printed
Slow production
Uneconomical for large scale production of yardage.
UNIT - III
Pic.3.1 Hand Screen-Printing

3.4 Automatic Flat Bed Screen Printing
This is very similar to hand screen printing, but here the fabric is put on the movable bed.
And after each printing application, new surface comes on the bed for next application.
Important Features of Automatic Flat Bed Screen Printing

Large repeat size (up to 60)is possible
Better color denition than roller prints; and eTual to hand screen printing.
Adaptable to all woven & knits.
Rapid changeover of designs possible.
Best machine registration.
Limitations of Automatic Flat Bed Screen Printing

Cost of screen preparation and special mountings are more costly than hand
screen printing.
Not adaptable to low yardage.
Half-tone designs are not possible.
44
Fine-line paisley prints are not possible to print.

Lengthwise stripes are not possible to print.
UNIT - III
Pic.3.2 Flat Bed Screen Printing Machine
3.5 Rotary Screen Printing
In this type of printing, the screen is circular in shape. And screen are made up of ne
guage of perforated and chemical resistant metal sheets.
Important Features of Rotary Screen Printing

Up to 40-inch repeat size are possible that are larger than roller printing but
smaller than at bed screen.
Lengthwise stripe effect are possible to print.
Fall-on designs are possible to print.
Adaptable to all woven & knitted fabrics.
Cleaner and brighter colors are possible to compare to roller print.
Excellent color penetration, but less than at bed screen prints.
Rapid change over of designs are possible.
Efcient for long runs and moderately small (1000 yards) runs.
45
Limitations of Rotary Screen Printing

Fine-line and paisley prints are not possible to print.
Half tone designs are not as effective as in roller printing.
Pic.3.3 Rotary Screen Printing Machine

UNIT - III
3.6 Heat Transfer Printing

In this process of printing, the designs are rst printed with special type of disperse dyes
on the paper and then this paper is put on the fabrics and High temperature is applied
on the fabric for very short duration,
Since the disperse dyes are having properties of sublimation, so colours as per the
design will transfer from paper to fabric and redeposit on the fabric surface permanently.
This type of printing is also called as Transfer Printing.
Important Features of Heat Transfer Printing

Produces bright, sharp, clear ne-line designs.
Ability to print cut garment parts and small items.
Adaptable to long and short yardage runs.
Rapid pattern changeover are possible.
Simple, low-investment installation steamers, washers, dryers, etc are not
reTuired.
Fewest seconds are reTuired for all printing processes.
Heat setting is also accomplished.
46
Limitation of Heat Transfer Printing

Lead-time for paper preparation can cause problems in high fashion markets.
Fiber content in fabric should be minimum 50 synthetic Fiber.
Celluloses & protein bers cannot be printed.
Over print only on pastels or else will not completely cover the original color.
3.7 Styles of Prints

These are specic features in the prints, which provide the uniTue identity to the prints.
Such types of effects are not possible by any other methods of the prints. Such as the
merging effects of two or more colours are only possible in the Tie and Dye styles or the
cracking effect within the colour are only possible in the Batik style of printing.
3.8 Direct Prints

This print is also called an application print and it is most popular types of print style.
UNIT - III
In this print design is printed directly onto a white cloth or over a previously dyed pale
coloured fabric. In this print, the printed portion is considerably darker than the dyed
backgrounds.
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The background is generally white, or has larger portions of white background.
The printed design is lighter in shade on back of the fabric than on the face. This may not
be evident on lightweight fabrics because of the strike-through of the print paste.
,GHQWLFDWLRQVRI2YHU3ULQW
The background color is the same shade as on the face and the back (piece dyed) and
the print design are substantially darker than the background.
3.9 Discharge Prints

In this type of prints, Fabrics are generally dyed in a solid color, prior to printing, the
design is applied by screen or roller with a chemical (sodium sulphoxylate formaldehyde,
a reducing agent). This reducing agent will destroy the colour in the printed portion and
white background will appear in the printed area.
47
For example.White discharge print White

polka dot on a blue back ground can be made
by rst dyeing the fabric blue, then printing
appropriate dots with the chemical which
removes the blue color.
The colour-destroying chemical does not

affect on vat dyes so that Color discharge
Print can also be produced. For color
discharge, these two substances (the color
removing chemical and vat dye) may be
mixed together in the same print paste and
applied in the similar fashion.
When printing with this mixture, the color-

removing chemical removes the previously Pic.3.5 Discharge Prints on Red Background
dyed background color while the vat dye
color is simultaneously printed on the fabric.
UNIT - III
A yellow polka dot on a blue background can be made by rst dyeing the fabric Blue
then printing with a yellow vat dye mixed with the colour-removing chemical.
Discharge print can be made by roller & screen methods, but not by heat transfer
printing.
Discharge Prints are not widely used due to following reasons :
Production is more costly than direct print because fabric is to be dyed prior to
printing.
Very careful and precise process control is reTuired.
Developments of automatic rotary screen-printing, high Tuality blotch prints, which can
produce the same effect at lower lost.
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The background is the same shade on the face and back of the fabric (piece
dyed).
Print design area is white or a different removing or shade than background.
Back of the print design reveals traces of the background removing.
48
Pic.3.5.1Discharge Printed Fabric

3.10 Resist Prints
In this type of prints, the fabric is printed in two steps. In rst step, pattern or design
is printed on a white fabric with a chemical (wax-like
resinous substance) that will prevent or resist the
penetration of dyes. In second step, the fabric is dyed
by piece dyeing method.
Resist prints are not popular type of printing on fabric.
UNIT - III
It is generally used where removing of background
colour from the fabric is very difcult. It is performed as
craft or hand printing rather than on production basis.
Generally used for Batik prints, tie-dye prints and ikat
prints. Pic.3.6 Resist Printed Fabric
3.11 Pigment Prints

Pigment prints are called direct prints. In this type of prints, Pigments are used as colouring
matter compare to dyes. After printing with pigments, it does not reTuire washing of the
fabric, hence it is also called dry printing.
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Comparing the differences in fabric stiffness
between a designs printed portion and a non-
printed portion of the same fabric. The pigment
print area will be slightly stiffer and a bit thicker
than the non-print area.
Deep shades are stiffer than light shades.
Pigment prints are least costly. Pic.3.7 Pigment Printed Fabric
49
Advantages of Pigment Prints
Simple to apply
Less amount of processing
No after treatments are reTuired
(steaming & washing)
Pigments produces bright and rich colors

Pic.3.7 Pigment Printed Fabric
Can be applied to all bers
Good to excellent fastness to light and dry cleaning
Widely used for drapery and curtain fabrics
Excellent lot-to-lot shades matching attainable

UNIT - III
Colour removes gradually and become more faded with each laundering
Poor fastness to crocking (rubbing) especially in dark colors.
3.12 Blotch Prints
In this type of printing, complete background has been obtained by printing. It is also
called Direct Print. The print and pattern design color are printed on fabric in one printing
operation that imitates the discharge or resist style of print effects.
,GHQWLFDWLRQRI%ORWFK3ULQWV
The blotch print background color is lighter on backside of the fabric.
Possibilities of large background color areas of the print are not covered with full
depth of colors.
Precise control is necessary.
If pigment are used in blotch prints, then fabrics very often result in objectionable
stiff hand.
50
3.13 Flock Printing

In this type of printing, velvet like
effect are produced on the printed
surface. For this purpose, designs is
rst printed with adhesive and tiny
particles of bers (1/10 1/4) are
made to adhere to a fabric surface in
accordance with a particular design
and then exposing the bre ock
adhere to the fabric at very high
temperature.
There are two type of Flock printing:

Pic.3.9 Mechanical Flock Printing
1. Mechanical Flocking
2. Electrostatic Flocking
Mechanical Flocking
UNIT - III
In this method of printing, the fabric is passed in open width through ocking chamber
in which bre ock is shifted on to the fabric surface while mechanical beaters cause
fabrics to vibrate and ocks sticks on fabric.
Electrostatic Flocking
In this type of printing, Flock particles are given electrostatic charges, and passed
though a high voltage chamber , Since
all the ock are previously charged,
all bers orient in an upright position
when they adhere to fabric. This is
slower and more costly process. This
method is generally used for rayons
and nylon bers. The bers are dyed
prior to ocking to impart various colour
to design. The ability of ocked fabric
to withstand dry cleaning and washing
completely depends on the Tuality &
characteristics of adhesive.
Pic.3.10 Electrostatic Flock Printing
51
3.14 Burn-Out Prints

This type of printing is normally carried out
on polyester/ cotton , or polyester /Viscose
blends. In this type of printing acid liberating
substance (Ammonium Chloride, Aluminium
Sulfate) are used. That substance will
destroy the cotton or viscose ber in the print
area and printed portion will have mesh like
structure; such types of prints are generally
used in low-cost summer blouses and cotton
lingerie. Interesting designs can be created
with blends. Pic.3.11 Burn-Out Printing
3.15 Duplex Prints

In this style of prints, Fabrics is printed on both the sides. This generally provides imitate
JacTuard & Dobby woven pattern to the fabrics. It is very expensive printing.
UNIT - III
Pic.3.12 Duplex Printing
3.16 Engineered Prints

This style of printing have two or more distinct designs and each of them is located in
separate areas of the fabric, and each area is designed to become a specic part of the
garment; such type of printing is called Engineered Prints. The fabric is generally printed
by hand screen or heat transfer methods.
52
Pic.3.13 Engineered Printing
3.17 Warp Prints

Warp Prints involve printing the warp yarns of a fabric before it is placed on the loom
for weaving, then, the fabric is woven with a solid color weft usually white or contrast
UNIT - III
color.
The result is a soft, shadowy design on the fabric. Producing warp prints reTuire careful
and skilled labor. These prints are found almost exclusively on high Tuantity and
expensive fabrics.
Pic.3.14 Warp Printing (Patola Saree)
53
Exercise
Fill in the blanks
1. ..is used to apply coloring localized areas only.
2. . Best method for low yardage samples exclusive limited Tuality designs.
3. Half tone designs not possible in ...
4. Fine-line paisley prints not possible...
5. Lengthwise stripe designs not possible...
6. Large repeat size (up to 60) are possible in .
7. Lengthwise stripe effect is possible in .
8. Ability to print cut garment parts and small items is possible in ..
9. is also called an application print & most popular print types.
10. .. fabrics are dyed in solid color prior to printing & the design is applied
UNIT - III
by screen or roller with a chemical.

11. In production is more costly than direct print because fabric is to be dyed
prior to printing.
12. The background removing is the same shade on the face and back of the fabric
in ..
13. Batik prints, tie-dye prints and ikat prints are example of .
14. In the area will be slightly stiffer and a bit thicker than the non-print area.
15. The .background color is lighter on backside of the fabric.
16. Printing with chemical substance that will destroy the bre in the printed area is
called.. .
17. Prints in which both sides of the fabric have been printed are called
..
18. Prints that have two or more distinct designs, each located in separate areas of
the fabric, and each designed to become a specic part of the garment is called
.
54

1. Write down the limitation of the Screen Printing.
2. Write the Specic features of the Screen printing.
3. Write down the limitation and specic features of the Flat bed screen printing.
4. Write down the limitation and specic features of the Rotary screen printing.
5. Write down the limitation and specic features of the Heat transfer printing.
6. What are the specic features of Direct prints?
7. How do you identies Direct print on the given fabric?
8. What are the specic features of Resist prints?
9. How do you identies Resist print on the given fabric?
10. How do you identify the Pigment print on the given fabric?
11. How do you identify the Blotch print on the given fabric?
UNIT - III
12. Write down the Specic features of the Following Prints
Flock Prints
Burn Out Prints
Duplex Prints
Engineered Prints
55
UNIT IV
TEXTILE FINISHES
Learning outcome
After nishing this unit, students will be able to understand
Types of nishes and their performance.
Overview
This unit deals with the Textile Finishing. In this chapter students will be able to learn,
the objectives of nishing and how these nishes will change the feels of the fabrics.
They will also get to know about the special purpose nishes such as ame retardancy,
water repellency, easy care etc. After completion of this chapter the students will able
to understand that what type of nishes are suitable to which kind of end use of the
fabric.
TEXTILE FINISHES
Finishing is the integral part of the textiles, without nishing fabrics can not be sold to
the desired customer. Finishing is the seTuence of operations, other than scouring,
bleaching, and coloring, by which fabrics are improved in appearance and feel and
provide desirable as well as essential properties. Fabric coming directly from the loom
is unattractive. To make the fabric attractive and acceptable to the consumer several
nishing processes are applied. Sometimes special nishes are also applied to the
UNIT - IV
fabric to make it serviceable for particular operations. Following are the objectives of
nishing operations.
Objectives of Finishing
The objectives of nishing are:
To improve the appearance of the fabric, that is, to make it more attractive by
operations like calendering, optical whitening
To improve the feel of the fabric by softening, stiffening
To cover faults in the original fabric
To improve wearing Tualities of cloth by making it shrink resistant, crease
resistant or free from pills and soiling
56
To make garments hold their shape and enable them to be worn without
ironing.
To impart special properties to the fabric for specic end uses (eg. ame retardant,
water repellant).
To set the texture of certain fabrics and make them dimensionally stable.
To produce stronger and more durable fabrics.
Selection of Finishes
Selection of the nishes generally depends on the following factors:
Contains of fabrics which means type of the ber and yarn used in the fabrics
Thread count (Total no of yarns presents in the one sTuare inches of fabric)
Method of fabric construction
Hand, weight, drapability Tualities
End use of the fabric or garment
Finishes are generally classied by different persons into different category, which are
briey explained below
&ODVVLFDWLRQRI)LQLVKHV
According to Designer / Merchandiser / Sales Personals
Aesthetic Finishes
UNIT - IV
Functional Finishes
According to Textile Chemist
Mechanical Finishes / Dry Finishes
Chemical Finishes / Wet Finishes
According to Degree of performance
Permanent Finishes
Durable Finishes
Semi Durable Finishes
Temporary Finishes
57
According to Designer / Merchandiser / Sales Personals

4.1.1 Aesthetic Finishes
Aesthetic nishes are the nishes which change or modify the appearance and / or hand
of the completed garment and gives fabrics a distinct surface effect which are pleasing
to hand and eye. for examples improving the softness of fabric.
4.1.2 Functional Finishes
Functional nishes are the nishes, which alter or improve the wear ability and
performance of fabric or garment and provide for: Additional comfort, Safety measures,
Environmental and Biological resistance, Durability for wear life of garment, improved
care performance. Some of the example of such nishes are
I. Encapsulated nishes
II. Smart textiles
III. Anti-Static
IV. Moisture management
V. Odor free
VI. Non ironing
VII. Anti-microbial
VIII. UV absorbers
IX. Cool nish
UNIT - IV
X. Water proof nish and many more
4.2 According to Textile Chemists
Mechanical Finishes / Dry Finishes

Such type of nishes generally causes a physical change in the fabric. These nishes
are applied by mechanical eTuipment such as copper plates, drying cylinders, perforated
cylinders or stenter frames. Generally temperature, Pressure and Steam are used during
the mechanical nishes . Fabrics are handled in dry state hence these type of nishes
are also called mechanical nishes.
58
Chemical Finishes / Wet Finishes

In such type of nishing Acids, alkalis, bleaches, detergents, softeners, resins and other
chemical substances cause a reaction and produce permanent change in ber, yarn or
fabric. These nishes are generally permanent in nature. Mercerization is the example
of a chemical nishes.
4.3 According to Degree of Performance

This type of classication is based on numbers of wash cycles
Permanent Finishes
This type of nish Involve a chemical change in the ber structure. Once it is applied
on the fabric, it will not change or alter throughout the life of fabric. Effectiveness of the
nish will withstand throughout the life of the garment / fabric. Water proong of umbrella
fabric is the example of this type of nish.
Durable Finishes
Such type of nishes usually last throughout the life of the garment. However, Effectiveness
of such nish will withstand for 50 60 cleanings. Near the end of the normal use life
of the garment, the nish is completely removed. Softness of terry towel belongs to this
class.
Semi Durable Finishes

Majority of nishes available in the market belongs to this class. Such types of nishes
UNIT - IV
Last through 25 30 launderings / dry cleaning. Many of such nishes are renewable
type and can be carried out during home laundering / dry cleaning.
Temporary Finishes
Such type of nishes is provided to the fabrics to add body or to improve appearance or
hand of the fabric. Some time to increase the salability of inferior fabric. Such types of
nishes are removed completely in 1 2 laundering or Dry Cleaning operations.
4.4 General Finishes
Calendaring
In this nishing operation, fabric is compressed between two heavy rolls to provide
59
attened, smooth appearance of fabric by the action of heat and pressure. Surface
of the roller can be either smooth or engraved. These rollers are generally made of
hardened chromium plated or elastic thermoplastic materials.
Calendaring is done for many purposes. The main effects are as follows:
To improve the Smoothness of the fabric
To increasing the luster of fabric
For closing the threads of woven fabric
For decreasing the air permeability
For increasing the fabric opacity
To improve the fabric handle
To atten the slubs
For obtaining silk like / high gloss nish
To obtain Surface patterning by embossing
Consolidation of non-woven fabrics
Swissing or Normal Gloss

This is a cold calendar process which produces a smooth and at fabric the steel bowl
of the calendar is heated thus produces lustrous fabric. If a 7-bowl calendaring is used
then the result is smooth fabric with surface gloss on both sides of the fabric.
UNIT - IV
Chintz or Glazing or Friction Calendaring

This type of calendaring gives highly polished
surface like Glazed Chintz Cotton fabric. If a
very high gloss is reTuired, then fabric is pre-
impregnated with a wax emulsion and calendaring
is carried out. If the fabric is pre-treated with resin
then this is a semi-durable type of nish.
Cire Calendaring
This is a Three-bowl calendaring where top bowl
Pic.4.1 chintz
60
rotates with much greater than friction calendaring (400 rpm). The resultant fabric
becomes highly lustrous. Fabrics of cotton, rayon, polyester, nylon and blends may be
given cire nish. The fabrics are pre-treated with wax or resin, to get highly polished
effect. When synthetics are cire nished, the fabrics become moderately water-repellent
due to attening or partially fusing of fabric.
Embossed Calendaring
It produces three-dimensional design on fabric.
Embossing calendar consists of heated hollow metallic
roller engraved with the embossing design and solid
paper roller, twice the size of engraved roller. Fabric is
drawn between the two rollers and designs are embossed
on the fabric surfaces. If Celluloses fabrics are used for
embossing purpose then effect will be temporary nish,
however, Celluloses pre treated with resin will provide
Semi durable embossing effect.
Permanent embossing can be achieved on the Synthetic
fabrics Pic.4.2 Embossed Fabric
Moir Calendaring
Produces wood grain design on the face side of the fabric. There are two ways to achieve
this result.
Method One:
UNIT - IV
Rib fabric (Faille / Taffeta) and balanced plain weave
fabric are placed face to face. Both the fabrics are
fed into smooth heated metal rolls for calendaring
keeping the speed of the rib fabric greater than that of
the plain woven fabric. The pressure on the calendar
rolls is maintained at about 8 10 tons
The result is undened watermark or moirp effect is
formed on rib woven fabric
Pic.4.3 Moir Pattern
61
Another Method of Embossing:

In this method, Embossed moirp pattern are engraved on the metal roll. When the roll
passes over a Rib fabric, the ribs are attened and a moirp pattern is created.
If Celluloses fabrics is used for embossing then temporary effects are achieved, However
Celluloses or blends pre treated with resin will give Semi Durable nish. Permanent
embossing effect can be obtained on the Synthetic fabrics.
Schrenier Calendaring
This type of calendaring produces low, soft, smooth and luster on the fabric. 3-bowl
calendaring is used to produce this effect, in this type of calendaring top metal roller are
engraved with 200-300 ne diagonal lines per inch. This nish scatters light rays and
produces a deep-seated luster rather shines. It can upgrade low Tuality cotton fabric.
Also produces a softer hand and improved fabric cover. If Celluloses fabrics is used for
embossing then temporary effects are achieved. However, Celluloses or its blends,
when pre treated with resin will give semi durable nish. Permanent embossing effect
can be obtained on the Synthetic fabrics.
4.5 Napping / Brushing

This is Mechanical nish used for woven or knitted fabrics. To provide napping, fabric
should be made from medium twist warp, and low twist weft yarn.
In this nish, fabrics are passed against
rotating bristled wire covered rollers.
UNIT - IV
Thereby distorting the weave of the fabric

and raising the bers from fabric surface.
Example: Cotton, Woolen, Rayon, Melton,
Wool Fleece annels etc (Plain weave).
This provides softer hand and better
insulation to the fabric; such nishes is
widely used in blankets, sleep wear and
winter clothing. The main drawback of
Napped fabrics is that, these fabrics are
more prone to pilling in particularly sleeve Pic.4.4 Napping roller
ends, coat fronts, buttonholes, elbows and
other rubbing areas.
62
4.6 Emerizing, Sueding, Sanding or Peach Finish

This is a mechanical type of nish which
produces soft and smooth / silky feel to
the fabric. The fabric moves at a speed of
1520 meters / minute under two or more
rollers with ne emery paper on rst roller to
more abrasive paper in each successive roller.
This process abrades the surface causing
brils to split from the bres. High abrasion
and coarse abrasive sheet causes damage to
fabric strength. Abrasion generate heat may
cause harshness on synthetic fabric.
Strength of the fabric are generally decreases
the by 60 in this process. Dry cleaning is
preferred for this fabric. Emerizing can be
applied to Polyester/Cotton, Polyester/Nylon Pic.4.5 Peach Finished Fabric
blends, and 100 Polyester, Nylon and Micro
denier synthetics. This nish is generally given to sportswear.
4.7 Parchmentising or Organdy

This is the process in which cellulosic fabric are treated (ne count light weight) with
concentrated Sulfuric acid which produces beautiful transparent and stiffer fabric. The
action of Sulfuric acid produces different effects depending on its strength of the Acid
UNIT - IV
and duration of treatment. The degree of luster and interesting surface effect can be
obtained depending on pre-treatment of bleaching and mercerization of cotton fabric.
Fancy and novel effect is obtained by well bleached and mercerized fabric. Embossed
calendared cotton when treated with Sulfuric acid provides damask effect.
4.8 Functional Finishes

Functional nishes or special purpose nishes are applied to textile materials to enhance
their performance properties in a specic area. Although these nishes do not changes
the appearance of textiles they do address some consumer problem or make the textile
substrate suitable for a specic purpose. Functional nishes generally govern the surface
properties of the textile bers such as adhesion property and optical appearance of the
substrate.
63
Some of the functional nishes are listed below

Encapsulated nishes
Smart textiles
Anti-static
Moisture management
Odor free
Non ironing
Anti-microbial
UV absorbers
Cool nish
Water proof nish and many more
Shape Retention Finishes

It is an essential property of a garment to retain its shape. Apparel products must retain
their shape and pleats same even after many wearing, washings and dry cleaning .
Such type of nishing are called Durable Press / Wrinkle Free / Wrinkle Resistant and
Permanent Press.
Wrinkles are due to pressure on the fabric during day today use and care. These nishes
are used on cotton, rayon and linen because these three bres wrinkle easily. In these
nishes the fabric is treated with resin and then the resin is cured at higher temperatures.
UNIT - IV
After this nishes fabric becomes stiffer, less absorbent and more resistant to wrinkling.
Resin treatments also results in loss of tensile strength and reduction of abrasion
resistance in cellulosic bres. Most of these nishes are durable in nature.
Wrinkle recovery depends on Cross Linking of the resin in the inner molecular structure
of bre. Cross Links which hold adjacent molecular chain together and pull them back
in to position after the bre is bent, Thus preventing the formation of a wrinkle. Fibres
with strong inter molecular bonds have good molecular memory and they resist wrinkling.
Fibres with weak bonds wrinkle easily.
Resin like Dimethylol Dihydroxy Ethylene Urea (DMDHEU) Modied glyoxal based
Poly Carboxylic Acid derived (Recent development) are generally used in the Durable
Press nishes.
64
There are two type of process for the application of Durable Press Finish
Pre- Cured Process
Post Cured Process
Both the process are described in detail,
Precured process of Durable Press
Application Procedure
1. Treat the fabric with resin and dry.
2. Cure the fabric in curing chamber to form cross-linking between molecular
chains.
3. Cut and sew the products and press
General advantage and disadvantages are given in the table below.

Disadvantages Advantages
1. No permanent creases Smooth fabric
2. Puckered seams Dimensionally stable
3. Strength loss Lowest cost
4. Abrasion sensitive
Such nishes are used for shirting, draperies and other items that do not reTuire
pleating such as (Curtains, Bed sheets). This nishes are commonly given in
UNIT - IV
Cotton / Polyester blends and can also be used for shaping the garments like
(pants with a center crease).
Such garments are pressed with high temperature pressing eTuipment (Hot
Head Pressers) to Heat sets the Polyester component.
65
Pic.4.6 Structure Of Chemicals Used in Durable Press Finish

Post Cured Process
UNIT - IV
Treat the fabric with resin and dry.

Cut and sew the product and press shape with Hot Head Press.
Cure the pressed item in a curing oven at 300 400oF.
Advantages and disadvantages of the post cured process are given below.
Advantages
Post cured durable press nishes are Dimensionally stable
Crease retention Properties of the durable press nishes are excellent
Post cured durable press nishes fabrics shows Minimum Seam Puckering
66
Disadvantages
Higher Cost of production of Post Cure Durable Finish .
Sometimes Post Cure Durable Finish May set prematurely
Over nished areas of the Post Cure Durable Finish also increase the cost of the
Fabric.
Such nishes are Commonly used for Polyester/Cotton and Polyester/Viscose
blends. The main reason to use of polyester blends is to compensate loss of
strength and Abrasion resistance due to resin treatment on cellulose materials.
This is a Durable nish and generally last for 40 50 laundering .
If Durable Press Finish is given to 100 Cotton fabrics, then specially constructed
fabric and modied techniTues are reTuired to reduce the resin induced loss , abrasion
resistance and tensile strength. For this purpose long staple cotton with tightly twisted
yarns and compactly constructed (more yarns per inch) is reTuired. This provides Semi
durable effect which last for 15 20 laundering cycle.
Special Problems of Durable Press Garments

Frosting: In these defects, localized color change takes place at creases, cuffs, collars
and elbows area. Repairs or Alterations is difcult in durable press Garments, When
seams are opened, It creases are impossible to remove.
General Care Guidelines of Durable Press Garments

Resins have a strong afnity for oil and grease stains; hence to avoid stains,
UNIT - IV
immediately spot removal agents should be used
Pre-treat stains at collars and cuffs areas to avoid the longer wash cycle
Keep wash loads small to minimize wrinkling
To avoid wrinkles to set, keep washing and drying temperature at optimally low
Remove items promptly when dry
Shrinkage Control Finishes

During the manufacturing process, Yarn passes though various types of stress and strain
and further in the processing operations fabrics is also passed though various tensions,
hence the fabrics has the tendency to shrink in daily uses, washing and relaxation
process.
67
A reduction in the length or width of a bre, yarn or fabric is known as shrinkage. Growth
occurs when a fabric increases in dimension. It is essential to know the shrinkage of the
fabrics in both the directions ( Warp wise and weft wise) to determine construction and
design of garment
Causes of Shrinkage
There are various factors which contribute in the shrinkage process.
Intermolecular structure of bres
Yarn twist
Fabric construction (Yarns / inch)
Weave / knit structure
Woven fabrics generally shrink more in the warp directions than in the weft direction
because the warp yarns are under excessive tension during weaving. When the fabric is
latter subjected in to wet treatment or heat treatment in the case of synthetic bres, the
stress and strain within the bres are relieved, and the fabric relaxes.
Fibres that are moisture absorbent absorb water and swell. Accordingly, the yarn diameter
increases, and the yarns in each direction must move closer together to accommodate
the yarns in the opposite direction and results in increase the crimp of weft yarns.
Knit fabrics tend to stretch more during production than woven fabrics, and therefore knit
fabrics are likely to shrink more than woven fabrics.
In commercial dry cleaning process, the procedures and solvents used ,do not permit
fabrics to relax, as washing does, so that garments that are dry-cleaned may not shrink
UNIT - IV
as readily. Shrinkage in dry cleaning generally results from the high moisture content in
the solvent or from steaming during pressing of the fabric .
&ODVVLFDWLRQRI6KULQNDJH
According to the behavior of the fabrics under various conditions, shrinkage of the fabrics
can be classied into four main category.
i. Relaxation Shrinkage
ii. Progressive Shrinkage
iii. Residual Shrinkage
iv. Compressive Shrinkage
68
Relaxation Shrinkage
Relaxation Shrinkage occurs due to the bres and yarns are under considerable tension,
during weaving, knitting and wet processing, the fabric undergoes stress and strain due
to tension. Later when fabric becomes wet or steamed in a tension less condition, the
stresses and strains are relaxed. Relaxation shrinkage occurs when fabric is laundered
at initial stages.
Progressive Shrinkage
Progressive Shrinkage occurs each time a fabric is laundered. This continuous shrinkage
is due to the surface scale of the wool bre, which also causes felting. In case of viscose
rayon this continuous shrinkage is mainly due to high absorbency and swelling nature.
Residual Shrinkage
Even after fabrics have been properly pre-shrunk in nishing, there is a small amount of
shrinkage potential still remaining. This shrinkage is called residual shrinkage.
Some times extension of the of the fabric is also observed, during relaxation process
,this term is referred as growth of the fabric. This is result of the excessive shrinkage is
given to the fabric during the pre shrinking process.
4.9 Shrinkage Control Methods
Compressive Shrinkage (Sanforization)
UNIT - IV
This is a shrinkage control
method, in which a sample
of fabric is measured, the
measurements are recorded,
and the fabric is laundered such
a way as to produce maximum
shrinkage. The shrunken fabric
is measured, and percentages
of shrinkage are calculated
in warp and weft direction.
This indicates, the amount of
compression to be given to the
Pic.4.5 Peach Finished Fabric
69
fabric so that fabric can become Anti - shrink.
In Compressive Shrinkage process, the fabric is dampened and is placed on a machine

eTuipped with a continuous thick woolen felt blanket. The blanket travels around a
smaller roller carrying the fabric with it as it stretches around the curve of the roller. As
the carrier moves from the curve to a straight area, it compresses in to a smaller, at
area. When the carrier compresses, the fabric it carries is also compressed and is then
heated to set in this compressed conguration. This process is also called Sanforization.
When Compressive shrinkage is applied on the fabrics and fabrics does not shrink in
any directions during relaxation process then this is called Zero Zero Finish. This is
very difcult to achieve during the processing.
Shrinkage Control for Wool
Wool and animal hair bers are among those few bres that show progressive shrinkage.
This continuous shrinkage is due to the scale structure of the woollen ber, which also
causes felting in the fabrics.
In addition to felting shrinkage, wool fabrics display the same type of residual shrinkage
from relaxation that other bres show. Unlike cotton fabrics, however, wool may continue
to shrink if the relaxation of the bres is not complete after one or two washings.
Shrinkage treatments for wool are of two types: those that minimize the problems of
relaxation shrinkage and those that eliminate felting shrinkage.
Decating or Decatizing
UNIT - IV
This is stress relaxation process of

woolen fabrics. In this process, wool
fabric is wound on a perforated cylinder,
with a blanket of another fabric between
those layers. Jets of stream are released
through the holes in the cylinders, causing
the fabric to be dampened and relaxed.
Cold air is then blown through to set the
fabric. Not only does this process set the
wool fabric, but it also increases its luster.
This is Mechanical type of nishing.
Pic.4.8 Decatizing Machine
70
4.10 Soil Release / Stain Proof / Stain Repellent Finishes

This type of nish Improve the resistance to soil
during the day to day use of the fabric and provide
easy releasing of soil during the washing operations
and prevent the soil to redeposit on the fabric and
retaining whiteness or the original colour of fabric
.The Soil Release Finish reduces the degree of
soiling of the fabrics by:
Repelling the soil
Preventing formation of bond between soil
and fabric Pic.4.9 Water & Soil Repellent Finish
Following chemicals are commonly used chemical based nishes
and applied by pad system
1. Silicone Durable
2. Pyridinium Durable
3. Fluoro carbon Durable
4. Fluoro Carbon / Pyridinium Durable - Water / Oil borne
5. Wax and metallic salt Semi durable
Mainly applied for P/C, P/V blends and resin treated fabrics. These nishes helps to
improve wet ability during laundering for easy removal of soils by action of detergents
/ agitation.
UNIT - IV
4.11 Water Repellent / Water Proof Finishes
Water repellency depends on surface tension and fabric penetrability. Water repellent
fabric resist wetting but air / moisture can penetrate. It is achieved by combination of
fabric structure and nish.
Commonly used chemicals are:

Parafn Wax ! Spray
Parafn Wax with Al or Cr Salt ! Spray
Pyridinum Salt ! Pad -! Dry -! Bake
71
Reactive Silicon Resins ! Pad -! Dry -! Bake

Fluoro Carbon Emulsion ! Pad -! Dry -! Bake
These chemicals ll the gaps between yarns in fabric.
Performance of repellency depends upon: Nature of fabric and Soaps / detergents in

cleaning
Water Proof Fabrics

This is a completely moisture proof fabric which provide protection under all conditions
of wet weather. Fabric is coated or laminated with a lm of natural or synthetic rubber or
plastic such as Vinyl or Polyurethane. This is a permanent type of nish.
Water Proof Breathable Laminated Fabric

Laminated fabric, consisting of extremely thin laminate (0.001 inch) made from Teon
(Poly Tetra Fluroethylene). It provides a water proof yet breathable fabric. The Laminate
sheet contains over one billion extremely ne holes per inch. Laminate can be applied
on to woven / knitted fabric.
Applications: Heavy duty, foul whether clothings, special military protective clothing, rain
wear, ski wear, golf suits, sports footwear linings, hospital drapes, mattress, tarpaulins,
tents and sleeping bag covers.
4.12 Anti Microbial Finishes

UNIT - IV
This nish prevents growth of bacteria

and odor-causing germs, prevent decay
and damage from perspiration, control
the spread of disease and reduces the
risk of infection following injury. This
nish is generally applied in intimate
apparels, body-t garments, jogging
and exercise clothing, sportswear, shoe
linings, hospital linen and carpets.
Pic.4.10 Anti Microbial Finished Fabric
72
Chemicals Used Are:

1. 4uarternary Ammonium Compounds
2. Zirconium Peroxides and N-halamines
Usually applied by padding; Semi durable nish ! 20 25 launderings
A variety of terms are used to describe the antimicrobial nishes applied to fabric. These
include sterilization, disinfectant, antiseptic, and fungistat, mildew-resistant and rot proof
nishes.
4.13 Insect & Moth Control Finishes

This nish is mainly applied for Wool and Wool Blends. The Chemical nish Permethrin
is applied at the scouring or dyeing stage. It is a Semi Durable Finish ! 15 20
launderings.
The prime reTuirement of mothproong agent is that it to be toxic to moths and beetles
that attack wool, but it must not be toxic to human beings at concentration levels used
for mothproong.
4.14 Durable Flame Retardant

Durable ame retardant is chemical nishes, which react with or physically held on
the surface of the fabric or within the ber. These nishes must withstand laundering
and other cleaning procedures throughout the expected life of the fabric. Durable
UNIT - IV
ames retardant are generally organic compounds, which contain phosphorus,
nitrogen and / or halogen (chlorine or bromine) or combination of these in the
chemical structure.
Durable ame retardant nishes are applied to a fabric by a pad-dry-cure process.
The nish formulation usually contains the ame retardant chemical, a softener, a resin
binder or cross-linking agent and catalyst.
Fabric Flammability
Fabrics can be placed in different categories with regard to ammability.
Flammable: Completely consumed when exposed to re
73
Flame Resistant: Chemically treated to resist the spread of the ame

Flame Proof: Fabrics made of bres that are inherently non-ammable
Example: Glass, Kevlar, Nomex
Factors: which Affect the Degree of Fabric Flammability
Fibre content: More air spaces within the fabric to burn more easily; Light weight
fabric: Low twist in yarn; Thin yarn; Low yarn / stitches per inch; Pile or napped
surface
4.15 Fabric and Garment Washes
Chemical Washes / Acid Wash
In this process a chemical is added to the wash solution to alter fabric surface.
Chemicals include alkalis, oxidizing agents, and others that are specic to the bre
being treated. These chemicals partially destroy the bre and create and modify the
surface conguration of fabric.
Acid Wash
In this case oxidative bleaching agent such as sodium hypochlorite or potassium

permanganate is added during the washing. No acid is used for this process. However,
to neutralize the colour of potassium permanganate, fabrics are treated with acid,
hence it is called acid wash. In this process, colour of denim fabric destroyed and white
background appeared so this processes is also
UNIT - IV
referred as white wash or snow wash.
This techniTue is used to produce fashion denims,

comfort polyester and washed silks.
Enzyme Washes / Bio Polishing
In this process, Cellulase enzyme is used that

dissolves part of cellulose molecule, which
permanently effect on surface of the fabric. The
hand of the fabric becomes softer after this nish;
It also removes surface fuzz and reduce pilling
and Improves
Pic.4.11 T-Shirts Bio Polish Finish
74
moisture absorption and dye ability of the fabric. The main limitation of enzyme wash is
that it decreases fabric weight and strength 5 10. This nish is mostly used for cotton,
rayon, tencel fabrics . If enzyme nishing is applied after fabric has been dyed with Vat /
Sulfur or Pigment dyes than Stone Wash Effect can be produced on the fabric
Stone Wash / Abrasive Washes
With abrasive washes, pumice stones

or some other abrasive material
is saturated with a chemical like
potassium permanganate and tumbled
with the fabric or garment for 30-60
minutes.
The abrasive material is removed and

the chemical is neutralized in a bath;
with fabrics like cotton, the abrasion
is controlled by the length of time the
fabric is treated and the style and type
of stone used.
With fabrics like silk that are lighter Pic.4.12 Stone Wash Denim
weight, the excessive abrasion may
damage the fabric by tumbling.
UNIT - IV
Fabrics nished in this manner are referred to by a variety of fashion terms including
stone washed denim, sanded silk, golf washed cotton and mud washed silk.
4.16 Micro Encapsulated Finishes

Micro capsules are between 5 50 microns and may contain fragrance, insect repellents,
disinfectants, cleaning agents or activated charcoal Micro capsule are sprayed on to a
fabric and held in place with Poly Vinyl Alcohol or Acrylic binder
Fragrance Finish is generally applied in : Handkerchiefs, Scarves, Curtains, Fur, Womens
hosiery, Sweaters and T- shirts; Normal rubbing during wear rupture the capsules and
release the fragrance
75
Moth Protecting agents have micro capsulated for application to wool products. Micro
capsules containing bactericidal agents are applied to socks underwear, womens
intimate apparel and active wear.
Activated charcoal is used as a deodorant nish to absorb body odor for gym wear
active sports wear, intimate apparels and hunter clothing.
Exercise
Fill in the blanks
1. Finishes that are applied by mechanical eTuipment such as copper plates, drying
cylinders, perforated cylinders or stenter frames are called ................. .
2. A chemical substances that cause a reaction and produce permanent change in
bre, yarn or fabric are called ..................
3. The nishes that involve a chemical change in the bre structure & will not change
or alter throughout the life of fabric is called ................. .
4. Effectiveness of .................will withstand for 50 60 cleanings.
5. .................last through 25 30 launderings / dry cleaning.
6. .................are removed completely in 1 2 laundering / Dry Cleaning.
7. ................. produces 3-dimensional design on fabric.
8. ................. occurs when fabric is laundered at initial stages.
UNIT - IV
9. ................. occurs each time a fabric is laundered.

10. ................. are among those few bres that show progressive shrinkage.
11. In ................. process, wool fabric is wound on a perforated cylinder.
12. ................. improve in resistance to soil / releasing soil and retaining whiteness of
fabric.
13. ................. depends on surface tension and fabric penetrability.
14. Water repellent fabric resist wetting but ................. can penetrate.
15. ................. prevents growth of bacteria and odor-causing germs.
16. Insect & Moth Control nishes are mainly applied for ................. .
76
17. Durable ame retardant nishes are applied to fabric by a .................process.

1. Classify the textile nishes as per Textile Designers.
2. Classify the textile nishes as per the Degree of performance.
3. Write Short notes on
4. Calendaring.
5. Swissing
6. Friction Calendaring
7. Cire Calendaring
8. Embossed Calendaring
9. Moirp Calendaring
10. Schrenier Calendaring
11. Emerizing, Sue ding, Sanding Or Peach Finish
12. Parchmentising Organdy
13. Compressive Shrinkage (Sanforization)
14. Soil Release / Stain Proof / Stain Repellent Finishes
15. Anti Microbial Finishes
16. Fabric and Garment Washes
UNIT - IV
17. Micro Encapsulated Finishes
77
Glossary
1. Singeing: Removal of protruding bers from both sides of fabric by
Burning.
2. De-sizing: Removal of starch from fabric.
3. Scouring: Cleaning treatment in which oil, waxes and residual sizes are
removed from the fabric by the chemicals.
4. Bleaching: Removal of natural coloring matter and makes the fabric in
perfect white.
5. Mercerization: Treated with a cold concentrated solution of sodium
Hydroxide.
6. Solution Dyeing Manufacturing process of Man made bers in which the coloring
Dope Dyeing agents are mixed to polymer solution of man made ber before it
Mass Coloration: is extruded through a spinneret.
7. Melange yarns: Heather-like effect for woolen yarns.
8. Cross Dyeing: Yarn, fabric or even garment made with two or more generic
ber types Blends having different dyeing Tualities is dyed a
single dye bath containing different classes of dyes.
9. Union Dyeing: Achieving single solid color on blended fabrics.
10. Mudmee Tie-Dye: Mudmee tie-dye is mainly created in Thailand and neighboring
part of Laos. It uses different shapes and colors than other types
UNIT - IV
of tie-dye, and the colors are, in general, more subdued.

11. Batik: Manual wax-resist dyeing techniTue.
12. Resist Dyeing: Prevent the dye from reaching all the cloth.
13. Curing: Treatment with high temperature.
78
Textile Chemical
Processing
Waa Danua
ass yII
79
UNIT - I : Pretreatments 82
Practical I. Desizing of Cotton Fabrics by Acid Desizing method
UNIT - I
and calculate the weight loss in the Process. 82

Practical II. Scouring of Cotton by Sodium Hydroxide and
measure water absorbency and shrinkage. 83
Practical III. Bleach the Cotton fabric with the bleaching powder. 84
Practical IV. Bleach the Cotton fabric by Hydrogen Peroxide 85
Practical V. Degumming of the Silk 86
Practical VI. Bleaching of the Silk with the Hydrogen Peroxide. 87
UNIT - II : Textile Dyeing 88

Practical VII. Dyeing of Cotton with Direct Dyes. 88
Practical VIII. Dyeing of Cotton with Reactive Dyes. 90
Practical IX. Dyeing of Cotton with Vat Dyes. 92
Practical X. Dyeing of Cotton with Sulphur Dyes. 94
Practical XI. Dyeing of Cotton with Azo Dyes. 96
Practical XII. Dyeing of Wool with Acid Dyes. 98
Practical XIII. Dyeing of Wool with Reactive Dyes. 100
Practical XIV. Dyeing of Silk with Acid Dyes. 102
Practical XV. Dyeing of Nylon with Acid Dyes. 104
UNIT - III : Textile Printing 106

Practical XVI. Tie and Dye of Cotton with Direct Dyes (Resist Print). 106
Practical XVII. Batik Print on the Cotton Fabrics (Resist Print). 108
Practical XVIII. Printing on the Polyester fabrics by Pigment Dyes. 110
Practical XIX. Printing on Cotton fabrics by Napthol Dyes. 111
Practical XX. Printing on Cotton fabric with Natural Dyes. 113
UNIT - IV : Textile Finishes 115

Practical XXI. Collect the sample of nished fabrics and describe
the type of nishes it may have. 115
80
Sample Practical Sheet
PRACTICAL MANUAL
81
UNIT - I : Pretreatments
Practical - I
Objective
Desizing of Cotton Fabrics by Acid Desizing method and calculate the weight loss in the
Process.
Materials /Chemical Required

Greige Cotton fabric/ Yarn, Hydrochloric Acid, Water
Procedure
x Take the oven dry weight of the given Cotton Fabric
x Wet it in the running water.
x Pour 2 Hydrochloric Acid solution in dye bath .
x Put the fabric in the dye bath Solution.
x Temperature of the bath should be maintained 40C.
x Gently stir the fabric at constant interval.
x Take the fabric out after two hours
x Wash the fabric though running water
x Allow it to dry in the Oven at 60C.
x Take the oven dry weight of the Desize Fabric
x Calculate the weight loss by the Given Formula
x Iron the fabric and mount it on the sample layout sheet.
Oven Dry Weight of the Desize Fabric

Weight Loss BBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBB X 100
PRACTICAL MANUAL
Oven Dry Weight of the Greige Fabric
Results
Given sample is having .................... of starch materials
82
Practical - II
Objective
Scouring of Cotton by Sodium Hydroxide and measure water absorbency and shrinkage.
Desize Cotton fabric, Sodium Hydroxide, Soda ash, Wetting Agent and Water.
Procedure
x Take a Cotton fabric of 20cm x 20cm size.
x Take oven dried weight of the fabric.
x Mark the fabric at distance of 10 cm in both direction (Warp and Weft).
x Soak the fabric in 3 Sodium Hydroxide solution.
x Add 1 Wetting agent to the solution.
x Maintain the material to liTuor ratio 1:50.
x Raise the temperature up to 90C.
x Maintain the temperature for 3 hours.
x Take the fabric out, wash it thoroughly, dried it and weight it.
x Measured the dimensional in both the direction and calculate percentage
shrinkage and weight loss.
x Take a stripe of fabric of 2cm x 20cm size and suspend it vertically.
x Insert the stripe into water bath.
x Measure the time taken by water to rise up to 2.5cm up the stripe.
x This should be done before scouring as well as after scouring.
x Compare the result to determine the absorbency of fabric.
Result
PRACTICAL MANUAL
x .................... weight loss is observed.
x Shrinkage in Warp direction ....................
x Shrinkage in Weft direction ....................
x Measure the absorbency of the fabric by measuring the time in seconds before
the scouring and after the scouring by putting a 2cm x 20cm size and suspend it
vertically in water.
83
Practical - III
Objective
Bleach the Cotton fabric with the Bleaching Powder

Scoured Cotton Fabric, Bleaching Powder, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydrochloric Acid and
Water.
Procedure
x Take desize and scour cotton fabric of 20cm x 20cm size and weight it.
x Prepare a water bath with 7-8 gram per liter bleaching powder
x Maintain 1:20 material to liTuor ratio.
x Maintain the pH 11 with the help of Caustic Soda.
x Soak the fabric in the water bath for one hour at room temperature.
x Take the fabric out, sTueeze it and rinse through running water.
x Soak it in the souring bath, containing 0.5 1 of Hydrochloric Acid for 5-10
min.
x After souring wash the sample with cold water.
x Compare the sample with scoured cotton fabric.
Result
Compare the whiteness of the fabric with desize, and soured fabric.
PRACTICAL MANUAL
84
Practical - IV
Objective
Bleach the Cotton fabric by Hydrogen Peroxide

Scoured Cotton Fabric, Hydrogen Peroxide, Sodium Silicate, Caustic Soda and Water.
Procedure
x Take a Cotton fabric of 20cm x 20cm size which is previously desize and
scoured.
x Prepare a water bath containing following recipe
Hydrogen Peroxide- 2
Caustic Soda 2
Sodium Silicate 3
Material to liTuor ratio 1:30.
x Take the calculated amount of solution in the pot.
x Enter the material into bath.
x Raise the temperature upto 90 degree centigrade.
x Maintain the temperature for 2 hours with continuous steering.
x Take the fabric out and sTueeze it.
x Wash the fabric with running water.
Result
x Compare the dried fabric with scoured fabric for whiteness.
PRACTICAL MANUAL
85
Practical - V
Objective
Degumming of the Silk

Silk Cocum, Non Ionic Soap and water.
Procedure
x Prepare a bath with following recipe
Soap 2 gram / liter
Soda 1 gram / liter
M: L ratio 1:40
Temperature Boil
Time 1 hr
x Take silk cocoon or raw silk yarn/fabric of 20cm x 20cm2 size for degumming.
x Weight the martial and calculate the amount of liTuor reTuired for degumming.
x Soak the material into the solution and allow it to boil for two hours.
x Take the material out and wash it thoroughly in running water.
x Dried it and weight the degummed silk material.
Result
Calculate the weight before and after degumming of silk and note the percentage weight
loss.
PRACTICAL MANUAL
86
Practical - VI
Objective
Bleaching of the Silk with the Hydrogen Peroxide.
Chemical Required
Degummed Silk yarn or fabric, Hydrogen Peroxide, Sodium Silicate, Magnesium
Chloride, Water.
Procedure
x Take the degummed silk yarn or fabric of 20cm x 20cm size.
x Prepare the bath containing following recipes-
Hydrogen Peroxide 5 gram / liter
Sodium Silicate 0.5
Magnesium Chloride 0.02
M: L ratio 1:30
Temperature 60C
Time 2 hours
x Take the weight of material.
x Take calculate amount of solution in the bath.
x Enter the material into the bath.
x Run the material for 2 hours maintaining the temperature 60C.
x Take the sample out, sTueeze it and rinse it in cold water.
x After drying is over , Iron the fabric and mount it on the sample layout sheet.
Result
PRACTICAL MANUAL
x Compare its whiteness, with the degummed silk material.
87
UNIT - II : Textile Dyeing

Practical - VII
Objective
Dyeing of Cotton with Direct Dyes

Bleached Cotton Fabric, Direct Dyes, Water, Sodium Chloride and Sodium Sulphate.
Preparation of Stock Solution

x Weight accurately 0.5 gram of dye stuff.
x Paste it thoroughly with the help of water.
x Add small amount of hot water to the paste and dissolve it completely.
x If necessary solution can be heated till it becomes clear.
x Dilute the solution to 100 ml with cold water.
x This solution is called 0.5 stock solution.
x From this solution, pipette out the calculated amount of dye solution.
Calculations:
Weight of fabric (gram) x Shade

Amount of stock solution reTuired in (ml) BBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBB
Shade of stock solution
Amount of water reTuired Weight of fabric x ML ratio Amount of stock solution

reTuired
PRACTICAL MANUAL
Procedure
x Take desize, scoured and bleached cotton yarn or fabric of 20cm x 20cm size.
x Weight it accurately.
x Immerse it into water bath for 10 minutes.
x Prepare stock solution separately.
88
x Take the calculated amount of stock solution.

x Add it into water bath.
x Slowly raise the temperature of water bath up to 90C .
x Stir the dye liTuor continuously for 20 minutes.
x Add calculated amount of sodium chloride to the dye bath.
x Increase the temperature up to boil.
x Continue dyeing for 20 more minutes.
x Add another calculated amount of sodium chloride solution to the dye bath.
x At the end of dyeing take the fabric out and sTueeze and rinse it in running
water.
x Soak the fabric or yarn in presence of 3 gram/liter soap solution and 2 gram/liter
soda ash.
x Rinse the fabric in cold water and keep it for drying.
x When drying is over , Iron the fabric and mount it on the sample layout sheet.
Result
x The given cotton fabric is dyed with the Direct Dyes ........... in ........... Shade.
PRACTICAL MANUAL
89
Practical - VIII
Objective
Dyeing of Cotton with Reactive Dyes
Material/Chemical Required
Bleached Cotton Fabric, Water, Soda Ash, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Sulphate, Tri
Sodium Phosphate.
Preparation of Cotton
x Take desize, scoured and bleached cotton yarn or fabric of 20cm x 20cm size.
x Weight it accurately.
x Immerse it in water bath for 10 minutes.

x Paste it thoroughly with the help water.
x From this solution pipette out the calculated amount of dye solution.
Procedure (A) :- Cold Brand Reactive Dyes

PRACTICAL MANUAL
x Stir the dye liTuor and enter the weighted cotton material.
x Raise the temperature up to 40C.
x Run it for 10 minutes.
x Add calculated amount of common salt or glauber salt.
90
x Continue dying for 30 more minutes.

x Stir the material freTuently to obtain the even dying.
x Add calculated amount of Soda Ash.
x Continue dying for 60 minutes.
x At the end of dying, take the cotton fabric out sTueeze it, and rinse with running
water.
x Soak the fabric or yarn in presence of 3gram/liters soap solution and 2gram/liters
soda ash.
x Rinse the fabric in cold water and keep it for drying.
x After drying is over , Iron the fabric and mount it on the sample layout sheet.
Result
x The given cotton fabric is dyed with the Reactive Dyes ......... in ......... Shade.
PRACTICAL MANUAL
91
Practical - IX
Objective
Dyeing of Cotton with Vat Dyes.
Material/ Chemical Required

Bleached Cotton Fabric, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydros, Wetting Agents (Terkey Red Oil) &
Water, Hydrogen Peroxide .
Calculations:
Amount of stock solution reTuired (ml) Weight of fabric (gram) x shade

BBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBB
shade of stock solution
Amount of water reTuired Weight of fabric x ML ratio amount of stock solution

reTuired
Preparation of Sample
x Take a desized, scoured & bleached cotton fabric of 20cm x 20cm size
x Weight it accurately
x Prepare 0.5 stock solution with standard method
Wetting (Preparation of Stock Solution)

x Take 0.5 gram of dyes
x Paste it with Terkey Red Oil
x Add 2-3 gram of NaOH (Dissolved in small water)
x Add 2-3 gram of Hydro (Dissolved in water)
x Make the volume of solution 100 ml.
PRACTICAL MANUAL
x If reTuired then heat the solution up to 50C

x Stock solution of 0.5 conc. is ready for dyeing
Dyeing Procedure:-
x Calculate the amount of stock solution reTuired.
x Maintain the M: L ratio 1.30 in water bath.
92
x Enter the cotton fabric in the dye bath

x Raise the temperature of bath up to 60C
x Run the cotton fabric for 40 min.
x Maintain the level of caustic & hydro in the water bath (2-3)
x Take the sample out & put the sample in for oxidation.
Oxidation
x Prepare a bath with 2 HCl & 3 H2O2 solution
x Enter the fabric in the oxidation bath & run it for 5 min.
Soaping
x Take the sample out & run it in 2-3 soap solution for 20 min at 60C.
x Take the sample out and rinse it thoroughly with water
x Keep the sample for drying
x When drying is over, Iron the fabric and mount it on the sample layout sheet.
Result
x The given cotton fabric is dyed with the Vat Dyes .......... in .......... Shade.
PRACTICAL MANUAL
93
Practical - X
Objective
Dyeing of Cotton with Sulphur Dyes.
Dyeing of cotton with sulpher dyes consists of four steps.
x Dissolving of Dyes.
x Application of Sulphur Dyes
x Oxidation
x Soaping
Material / Chemical Required

Bleached Cotton Fabric, Sulphur Dyes, Terkey Red Oil, , Sodium Sulphide, Soda Ash,
Common Salt/Sodium Sulphate, Sulphuric Acid, Potassium Dichromate, Acetic Acid &
Soap.
Preparation of Stock Solution:
Dissolving
x Take the calculated amount of Sulphur Dye (0.5 gram)
x Paste it with Terkey Red Oil
x Add 1 gram of Sodium Sulphate to the paste.
x Add small amount of warm water to the paste.
x Make it 100 ml with distill water.
x If dye is not dissolved completely, heat the solution until it becomes clear.
x If there are still some turbidity in the solution than add small amount of hydro to
the solution.
PRACTICAL MANUAL
Calculations:

94
Amount of water reTuired Weight of fabric x ML ratio amount of stock

solution reTuired
Dyeing Procedure
x Take the calculated amount of dyes from stock solution
x Maintain the M:L ratio 1:30
x Run the pre wetted fabric in the dye bath
x Increase the temperature of dye bath up to 80C
x Add sodium chloride in the dye bath in three installments during the dyeing
process.
x Continue the dyeing for 60 minutes.
Oxidation
x Prepare the oxidation bath with 3 Potassium Dichromate and 4 Acetic Acid
(33)
x Maintain the M:L ratio 1:30
x Immerse the dyed sample in to oxidation bath
x Increase the temperature of bath up to 60C
x Continue the oxidation process for 10 minutes
Soaping
x After oxidation, soaping should be carried out with 2gpl Soda Ash & 3 gpl Soap
at 60C for 20 min.
x Rinse with cold water and dry
x When drying is over , Iron the fabric and mount it on the sample layout sheet.
Result PRACTICAL MANUAL
x The given cotton fabric is dyed with the Sulphur Dyes .......... in .......... Shade.
95
Practical - XI
Objective
Dyeing of Cotton with Azo Dyes
Dyeing of cotton fabric with Azo dyes consists of four steps.
x Dissolving of Napthol
x Application of Napthol on cotton fabric
x Development colour with base or salt
x Soaping

Bleached Cotton Fabric, Water, Caustic Soda, Common Salt, Sodium Nitrate,
Formaldehyde 40, Sodium Acetate, Acetic Acid, Soap.
Dissolving of Napthol
x Take one gram of Napthol
x Paste it with TRO (Terkey red oil)
x Add 0.6 gram of Sodium Hydroxide solution
x Add small amount of boil water
x Boil the solution until it becomes clear
x Dilute the solution to 100 ml
Application of Napthol
x Take desize, soured & bleached cotton fabric
x Immerse it into the Napthol solution
x Add 3 gram of common salt to the solution
PRACTICAL MANUAL
x Run the fabric into the solution for 20 min.

x STueeze the fabric evenly
x Take the sample for developing the color
96
Preparation of Base
x Take 1 gram of base
x Add 1 gram Sodium Nitrate & Water to it
x Add 1.5 ml of Hydrochloric Acid to the solution
x Add 1 gram of Sodium Acetate & 0.8 ml of Acetic Acid solution to it.
x Add 1 gram of Alum to the solution
x Make the volume of this solution to 50 ml
Application of Base/Development Procedure

x Take Napthol treated cotton fabric
x Run it through the base solution for 20 min
x Take the material out, sTueeze and wash it
x Run the material in soap bath contain 5 gpl Soap & 2 gpl Soda ash
x Wash and dry the fabric
Result
x The given cotton fabric is dyed with the Napthol Dyes ---------- in ------ Shade
PRACTICAL MANUAL
97
Practical - XII
Objective
Dyeing of Wool With Acid Dyes

Wool Yarn or Fabric ,Acid Dyes, Formic Acid, Acetic Acid, Glauber Salt & Water.
Preparation of Stock Solution:

x From this solution, pipette out the calculated amount of dye solution.
Calculations:
Weight of fabric (gram) x shade

Amount of stock solution reTuired (ml) BBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBB

reTuired
Dyeing Procedure
x Prepare the 0.5 stock solution of acid dyes.
PRACTICAL MANUAL
x Take the weight of the wool fabrics

x Calculate the amount of dye reTuired as per the shade percentage.
x Prepare a dye bath with 1:30 ML ratio
x Run the sample in the dye bath for 10 minute
98
x Run the fabric for 30 min at 80C

x Add 2 (10 ml) Acetic Acid to the dye bath
x Run the fabric for 20 min at boil
x Add 10 ml of 2 Acetic Acid solution to the bath
x Run the fabric for another 10 min.
x Take the fabric out of water bath
x Rinse it thoroughly in the running water
x Dry the sample
Result
x The given Wool fabric is dyed with the Acid Dyes .......... in .......... Shade.
PRACTICAL MANUAL
99
Practical - XIII
Objective
Dyeing of Wool with Reactive Dyes

Bleached Wool Yarn Or Fabric, Reactive Dyes, Formic Acid, Acetic Acid, Glauber Salt
& Water.

Calculation:


reTuired
Dyeing Procedure
PRACTICAL MANUAL
x Prepare the 0.5 stock solution of Reactive dyes.

x Take the weight of the wool fabrics
x Prepare a dye bath with 1:30 ML ratio
100
x Run the sample in the dye bath for 10 minute

x Run the fabric for 30 min at 80C
x Add 2 (10 ml) Acetic Acid to the dye bath
x Run the fabric for 20 min at boil
x Add 10 ml of 2 Acetic Acid solution to the bath
x Rinse it thoroughly in the running water
x Dry the sample
Result
x The given Wool fabric is dyed with the Reactive Dyes ---------- in ------ Shade.
PRACTICAL MANUAL
101
Practical - XIV
Objective
Dyeing of Silk with Acid Dyes
Material / Chemical required

Bleached Silk Fabric, Acid Dyes, Formic Acid, Acetic Acid, Glauber Salt & Water.

Calculations:


reTuired
Dyeing Procedure
PRACTICAL MANUAL
x Take the weight of the silk fabrics.

x Prepare a dye bath with 1:30 ML ratio.
x Run the sample in the dye bath for 10 minute.
102
x Add 5 gram of glauber salt to the solution.

x Run the fabric for 30 min at 80C.
x Add 2 (10 ml) Acetic Acid to the dye bath .
x Run the fabric for 20 min at boil.
x Add 10 ml of 2 Acetic Acid solution to the bath.
x Take the fabric out of water bath.
x Rinse it thoroughly in the running water.
x Dry the sample.
Result
x The given Silk fabric is dyed with the Acid Dyes ---------- in ------ Shade.
PRACTICAL MANUAL
103
Practical - XV
Objective
Dyeing of Nylon With Acid Dyes

Bleached Nylon Fabric, Acid Dyes, Formic Acid, Acetic Acid, Glauber Salt & Water.

Calculations:


reTuired
Dyeing Procedure
PRACTICAL MANUAL
x Take the weight of the Nylon fabrics.

x Prepare a dye bath with 1:30 ML ratio.
x Run the sample in the dye bath for 10 minute.
104
x Run the fabric for 30 min at 80C.

x Add 2 (10 ml) Acetic Acid to the dye bath.
x Run the fabric for 20 min at boil.
x Add 10 ml of 2 Acetic Acid solution to the bath.
x Rinse it thoroughly in the running water.
x Dry the sample.
Result
x The Nylon fabric is dyed with the Acid Dyes ---------- in ------ Shade.
PRACTICAL MANUAL
105
UNIT - III : Textile Printing

Practical - XVI
Objective
Tie and Dye of Cotton fabric with Direct Dyes ( Resist Print)

Bleached Cotton Fabrics, Direct Dyes, Water, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Sulphate.
Preparation Of Stock Solution

x Weight accurately 2 gram of dye stuff.
x This solution is called 2 stock solution.
x Use this solution for Tie & Dye of fabric
Procedure
x Take desize scoured and bleached cotton yarn or fabric of 20cm x 20cm size.
x Tie the fabric by any one of the method taught in the classs (Folding, Pleating,
Spiraling, Twisting, Coiling, Marbelling, Simple Tying or Tritik).
x Immerse it in water bath for 10 minutes.
x Prepare stock solution separately.
PRACTICAL MANUAL

x Slowly raise the temperature of water bath up to 90C.
x Stir the dye liTuor continuously for 20 minutes.
x Add calculated amount of sodium chloride to the dye bath.
106
x Increase the temperature up to boil.

x Continue dyeing for 20 more minutes.
x Add another calculated amount of sodium chloride solution to the dye bath.
x At the end of dyeing take the fabric out and sTueeze and rinse it in running
water.
x Repeat the entire procedure for getting the another color.
x For getting the various effects students may explore the time of exposure and
position of the dipping, in the dye bath.
x Soak the fabric or yarn in presence of 3gram/liters soap solution and 2gram/liters
soda ash to avoid the bleeding problems.
x Rinse the fabric in cold water and open the fabrics to see the effects of dyeing
and keep it for drying.
Result
x The Cotton fabric is Tie and Dyed in various patterns.
PRACTICAL MANUAL
107
Practical - XVII
Objective
Batik Print on the Cotton Fabrics (Resist Print)
Batik printing of cotton fabric with Azo dyes consists of ve steps.
x Application of Wax on the Cotton Fabric.
x Dissolving of Napthol.
x Application of Napthol on Cotton fabric.
x Development Colour with base or salt.
x Soaping.

Bleached Cotton Fabric, Water, Caustic Soda, Common Salt, Sodium Nitrate,
Formaldehyde 40, Sodium Acetate, Acetic Acid, Soap, Natural Wax & Parafn Wax.
Application of Wax on the Cotton Fabric

x Mix the Parafn wax and Bee Wax in 60:40 Ratio.
x Put these mixture of wax in a utensil,
x Heat the mixture of wax until it melts completely. ( Melting temperature Appox
70C) Continue the heating the wax at lower temperature so that it will not
solidify.
x Apply this wax on the cotton fabric with the helps of the brush
x When the application of wax is complete then put this sample in the Napthol
bath
x Take one gram of Napthal.
PRACTICAL MANUAL
x Paste it with TRO (Terkey Red Oil).

x Add 0.6 gram of Sodium Hydroxide solution.
x Add small amount of boil amount.
x Boil the solution until it becomes clear.
x Dilute the solution to 100 ml.
108
x Take desize, soured & bleached cotton fabric on which wax is applied.
x Immerse it into the Napthol solution.
x Add 3 gram of Common Salt to the solution.
x Run the fabric in the solution for 5 min.
x STueeze the fabric evenly.
x Take the sample for developing the color.
Preparation of Base
x Take 1 gram of base.
x Add 1 gram Sodium Nitrate & Water to it.
x Add 1.5 ml of HCl to the solution.
x Add 1 gram of Sodium Acetate & 0.8 ml of Acetic Acid solution to it.
x Add 1 gram of Alum to the solution.
x Make the volume of this solution to 50 ml.
Application Of Base/Development Procedure

x Take Napthol treated cotton fabric.
x Run it through the base solution for 20 min.
x Take the material out, Do not sTueezed the fabric and wash it and keep it for
drying.
Repeat the entire process and develop the another colour by protecting the previous
shade.
x Run the material in soap bath contain 5 gpl soap & 2 gpl soda ash and keep it
boiling until and unless entire wax has not come out. PRACTICAL MANUAL
x Wash the fabric with cold water and dry the fabric.
Result
x The Cotton fabric is Resist Printed.
109
Practical - XVIII
Objective
Printing on the Polyester fabrics by Pigment Dyes.

Bleached Polyester Fabric, Binder, Low Viscosity CMC, Urea, Water, Kerosene Pigment
& Di Ammonium Phosphate.
Preparation of the Thickener

x Take 75 ml of kerosene.
x Add 6 gram of low viscosity CMC.
x Add 2 gram of urea.
x Add 7 ml of water.
x Add 10 gram of binder.
x Mix all this chemicals with high speed stirring.
Preparation of Printing Paste

x Take 90 gram of thickener.
x Add 4 gram of pigment.
x Add 3 gram of Di Ammonium Phosphate.
x Add 3 ml water.
x Stir well for uniform mixing.
Printing
x Print the fabric with the paste.
x Dry the printed fabric.
PRACTICAL MANUAL
x Fix the print by the application of dry heat treatment at 140C for 5 minutes by
ironing or by dryer.
Result
x The Polyester fabric is printed with Pigments.
110
Practical - XIX
Objective
Printing on Cotton fabrics by Napthol Dyes.
Printing with Napthol colour involve following steps
x Dissolving of Napthol
x Application of Napthol on cotton fabric
x Application of printing paste with base or salt
x Soaping

Bleached Cotton Fabric, Water, Caustic Soda, Common Salt, Sodium Nitrate, Formal-
dehyde 40, Sodium Acetate, Acetic Acid, Soap,
x Take one gram of napthal
x Paste it with TRO (Terkey Red Oil)
x Add 0.6 gram of Sodium Hydroxide solution
x Add small amount of boiled water
x Boil the solution until it becomes clear
x Dilute the solution to 100 ml
x Take desize, soured & bleached cotton fabric on which wax is applied.
x Immerse it into the Napthol solution
x Add 3 gram of common salt to the solution
PRACTICAL MANUAL
x Run the fabric in the solution for 5 min.
x STueeze the fabric evenly
x Take the sample for developing the color
111
Preparation of printing paste with Base/ Salt

x Take 77gram of thickener.
Separately dissolve the fast colour salt as per the recipe given below
x 5 gram of Fast color salt
x Add 1gram Sodium Nitrate & water to it
x Add 1.5 ml of HCl to the solution
x Add 1 gram of Sodium Acitate & 2 ml of Acetic Acid (50) solution to it.
x Add 1 gram of alum to the solution
x Make the volume of this solution to 23 ml
Mixed this solution with the thickener with continuous stirring.
Application of Base for Printing Procedure

x Take Napthol treated cotton fabric
x Print the fabric with this paste.
x Keep it for drying
x Soap the fabric with 2gram / liter soap solution
x Rinse the fabric
x Wash the fabric with cold water and dry the fabric.
Result
x The Cotton fabric is printed with Napthol colour.
PRACTICAL MANUAL
112
Practical - XX
Objective
Printing on cotton fabric with Natural Dyes
Printing with Natural Dyes involve following steps
x Fabric Preparation
x Application of Mordant on cotton fabric
x Dyeing with Natural Dyes

Bleached Cotton Fabric, Water, Alum , Ferrous Sulphate, Copper Sulphate, Herda
Powder, Natural Dyes , Tamarind Seed Powder.
Fabric Preparation
x Take 20 gram of Herda Powder
x Put it into 200 ml of water
x Put 20 X 20 cm Cloth into it for half an hour
x Dry the fabric in the shade
x Remove all the dusting of the Herda powder from the fabric
Preparation of Mordant Paste

x Take 50 Gram of the Tamarind Seed Powder.
x Pour 40 ml of water with continuous stirring
x Add 20 Gram of Mordants ( Alum or Copper Sulphate or Ferrous Sulphate any
one)
x Continue stirring the paste till it is mixed uniformly.
PRACTICAL MANUAL
x Adjust the viscosity of the paste by adding the small amount of water
x Print the fabric with this paste and keep it for drying.
x Wash the fabric in the running water and remove all the paste.
113
Dyeing
x Take 50 gram of the any natural dye (Termeric powder or Madder Root powder)
x Put it into the water and boil it
x Enter the printed cloth in this bath and continue boiling for one hour.
x Take the fabric out of the bath and rinse it with water.
x Put the fabric for drying
PRACTICAL MANUAL
114
UNIT - IV : Textile Finishes

Practical - XXI
Objective
Collect the sample of nished fabrics from the market and describe the type of nishes
it may have. The main objective of this exercise is to Identify the various type of the
nished fabrics are available in the market and to development the understanding the
end uses of the given fabric. Student are expected to collect at least 20 sample of the
different swatches and mount it in the sample sheet.
PRACTICAL MANUAL
115
PRACTICAL MANUAL
116

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Textile Chemical

CENTRAL BOARD OF SECONDARY EDUCATION

National Institute of Fashion Technology

FIRST EDITION : 2014

No Part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted,

PUBLISHED BY : The Secretary, Central Board of Secondary Education,

51 d- ewy dkZO; & Hkkjr ds izR;sd ukxfjd dk ;g dkZO; gksxk fd og &

THE CONSTITUTION OF INDIA

W e take the opportunity to present this standard handbook entitled as "Textile

UNIT - II : TEXTILE DYEING 7

UNIT III : TEXTILE PRINTING 39

3.7 Styles of Prints 47

Introduction To Chemical Processing : Pre-treatments

which is deposited on the sheeps or goats hair.

1) solvent impregnation unit

Pic. 1.5: Before Bleaching Pic. 1.6: After Bleaching

Mercerization improves the following properties of the cotton fabric.

Cadena - Mercerizing compartment

Short answer questions

2.1 Colouring Materials

Pic.2.1 Structure of Dyes & Pigments

2.2.1 Vat Dyes

2.2.2 Azoic/Napthol Dyes

have poor fastness to crocking.

2.2.3 Direct Dyes

bright colors, only bright greens are available, but is

COONa Some direct dyes are metalized with copper to

blue or olive, in medium to O2N

Sometimes, these dyes are also used for

Sulfur dyes are having good fastness to light,

2.2.5 Reactive Dyes

Procion-C is cold type of reactive dyes,

2.2.6 Disperse Dyes

Disperse dyes are Non-ionic aromatic compounds with relatively

in water. These dyes are available in the form of powders,

2.2.7 Basic Dyes

Pic.2.10 Structure of Basic Dye

2.2.8 Acid Dyes

Pic.2.11 Structure of Acid Dye

2.2.9 Chrome / Mordant / Metallic Dyes

Acid Blue 158 Pre metallized Acid dyes

Pic.2.12 Structure of Metal Complex Dye

2.3 The Selection of Dyes

2.4 Dyeing Objectives

2.5 Dyeing Methods

2.6 Batch Dyeing Processes

Machines in which the fabric is circulated

Optimizing the Batch Dyeing Process

2.7 Continuous Dyeing Processes

A continuous dyeing process typically consists of the following:

This is because of two reasons:

a) The speed of the process.

b) Presence of a large number of process variables which affects dye application.

Optimizing of Continuous Dyeing Process

Application Technique of Rapid Batch Dyeing

2.8 Semi Continuous Dyeing Process

2.8.1 Solution Dyeing or Dope Dyeing or Mass Coloration

Some of the important feature of dope dyeing is as follows:

Dyed colors solution are fade proof under all conditions.

10-15 waste of dyed bers during dyeing