Trend Collection

AW 13/14

www.stoll.com
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Winter
Since the 16th century, when Europes interest in countries in the In addition to established Stoll knitting techniques like intarsia
East rose, European art became distinctly influenced by and multigauge, we rediscovered an almost forgotten technique:
non-Western art.First stimulated by trade with the East, faraway Stoll-devor knitoffers a unique method of knitting trans-

INS
countries became easier accessible with the advent of the parent and opaque areas simultaneously. It allows to design
railroad and steamship. Travellers took transparency into knits like known from
home not only exotic objects, but also ins- the appearance of burn-out techniques
piration that influenced their taste at home or so called devor fabrics.
and led to a new aesthetic in the West, a The colour pallet is also inspired by the

PIR
combination of the seemingly incompatible. opulence of exotic subjects, from earth
Western artists, designers and architects tones to rich purples, reds and greens
drew from oriental subjects, costumes, and shiny metallics.
ornamental motifs and complex geometric The collection includes 4 designs created
patterns and portrayed the Orient as exotic, by students as a result of a joint project

ATI
colourful and sensual.Exoticism in the betweenthe Stuttgart State Academy of
decorative arts and interior decoration was Arts and Design,the Italian yarn manufac-
associated with fantasies of opulence and turer Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia and
barbaric splendor. Stoll Germany. The designs wereshown
By the middle of the 19th century,many during Pitti Filati in Florence on the booth

ON
non-Western forms and ornamental motifs of ZegnaBaruffa Lane Borgosesia and in
had found their way into the vocabulary of the Stoll showroom in Manhattan.
European decorative arts. Wilhelma, the zoological and botanical
For AW 13/14 we drew inspiration from this garden of Stuttgart,with its impressive
rich clash of aesthetics and from flamboyant 19th century Moorish style buildings and
style icons of the time. The collection greenhouses made the right setting for
combines long and elegant silhouettes, draped cuts and layered the photo shoot ofthe collection.
knits with ornaments, exotic motifs and graphic patterns. Hairy Indulge in the opulent pieces and be inspired by the influences
textures, achieved by the use of mohair, chenille and alpaca yarns of Oriental culture from the past centuries translated by Stoll
form a contrast to shiny yarns with viscose blends. into modern techniques!
 1210060
CMS 530 HP
E 18

intarsia rib dress with separate

tubular starts for each colour with
28 (30) intarsia yarn carriers, top
part with smooth transition from the
ribs into straps (ending in neckline),
indicated V-neck by ribs without
intarsia binding, ribs with smallest
intarsia-colour field width
8
 1210103
CMS 822 HP KNIT & WEAR
E 7.2

long sleeveless Fully Fashion dress

with shoulder straps in 1x1 rib with
transfer structure, double jersey
structure with needle set out and
origami pleats, godet insert at
the rear, dress knitted from top
to bottom
9
 1210084
CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE
E 7.2

Fully Fashion pullover with cascading

neckline and relief-diamond motif in
plated pointelle and float structure

11
 1210034
CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE
E 7.2

STOLL-MULTI GAUGES
dress with V-neck and fringe decoration,
1x1 rib in chest area, shoulder part in
1x1 tubular, skirt part knitted with all
needles in tubular with slub yarn

14
 1210034
CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE
E 7.2

STOLL-MULTI GAUGES
dress with V-neck and fringe
decoration, 1x1 rib in chest area,
shoulder part in 1x1 tubular,
skirt part knitted with all needles
in tubular with slub yarn
15
 1210109
CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE
E 8.2

long sleeveless Fully Fashion dress

in double jersey float structure with
godet insert at the rear and deep
back cut-out

16
 1210019
CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE
E 7.2

STOLL-DEVOR KNIT
STOLL-MULTI GAUGES
sleeveless Fully Fashion dress with
filigree motif around the neckline,
knitted with all needles, skirt part
with rolled hem in plush and tubular
structure with filigree motifs and
striped background with connection
points, knitted with all needles and
1x1 technique, top and skirt part
combined with 1x1 tubular drawcord
17
 1210019
CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE
E 7.2

STOLL-DEVOR KNIT
STOLL-MULTI GAUGES
sleeveless Fully Fashion dress with
filigree motif around the neckline,
knitted with all needles, skirt part
with rolled hem in plush and tubular
structure with filigree motifs and
striped background with connection
points, knitted with all needles and
1x1 technique, top and skirt part
combined with 1x1 tubular drawcord
19
 1210110
CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE
E 7.2

STOLL-APPLICATIONS
Fully Fashion raglan coat in A-line
with open radial intarsia wave
applications on inside striped tubular
structure, knitted on trim with
intarsia waves

20
 1210020
CMS 520 C
E 3 m.3L

STOLL-MULTI GAUGES
sleeveless Fully Fashion dress in
different gauge optics with 1-needle
intarsia stripes and initial row in
manual work look, bottom and
middle part knitted in 1x1 technique
with and without cast off, upper part
knitted with all needles
22
23
 1210021
CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE
E 7.2

STOLL-APPLICATIONS
dress knitted in 1x1 technique with
purl stripes and applications in
interlock purl, made up across
the knitting direction, sleeves with
open rhombic intarsia pattern
in double jersey
25
 1210144
CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE
E 7.2

STOLL-DEVOR KNIT
jersey wrap-around dress with
different filigree motifs and
asymmetrical hem

26
 1210036
CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGES
E 3,5.2

dress in stripe design with gore and

cast off technique and knitted on
jersey undergarment

27
29
 1210035
CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE
E 7.2

STOLL-MULTI GAUGES
Full Fashion dress, top with different
pointelle structures, tails in 2-layered,
racked mesh structure with stitch
doubling to the top part, underskirt
in jersey with V-goring

30
31
 1210003 / 1210004 / 1210005
CMS 502 HP
E 18

Fully Fashion pullover with leopard

skin motif in pointelle structure, cuffs
in interlock
 1210041
CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE
E 8.2

Fully Fashion dress with vertical

intarsia stripes in jersey and 2-colour
tubular with openings, pattern offset
from skirt to top part

34
35
 1210120
CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE
E 7.2

sleeveless asymmetrical Fully Fashion

mini dress with layered skirt part
and side openings, skirt in 1-needle
relief-diamond structure with
2-colour twined floats, top part in
2-colour jersey structure
 1210101
CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE
E 3,5.2

Fully Fashion coat in intarsia wave

structure with holding stitches and
goring, transparent areas in 1x1
technique, knitted on trim in
reverse tubular
38
 1210134
CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE
E 3,5.2

STOLL-MULTI GAUGES
Fully Fashion pullover with degrad
patterning in 2-colour jacquard with
1x1 net back and intarsia neckline
40
 1210121
CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE
E 3,5.2

Fully Fashion top with pointelle

diamond-motif in continually
decreasing size achieved by Fair Isle

1210071
CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE
E 8.2

Fully Fashion mini skirt in pointelle

and float structure mix with holding
stitches, intarsia areas and bordure
with shell-pointelle structure, shape
achieved by goring

41
 1210040
CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE
E 3,5.2

STOLL-MULTI GAUGES
Fully Fashion dress with intarsia areas
in honeycomb and shell-float
structure, 2x2 rib waistband

42
 1210033
CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE
E 7.2

STOLL-MULTI GAUGES
Fully Fashion dress, knitted in one
piece, consisting of intarsia ribbons,
skirt part with plated, crinkled
reverse jersey

44
 1210046
CMS 530 HP
E 14

STOLL-DEVOR KNIT
sleeveless Fully Fashion jersey dress
with cheetah motif in intarsia-cross
tubular jacquard and filigree motif

45
 DETAILS

1210084 P. 10/11 1210110 P. 19 1210021 P. 22/23 1210021 P. 22/23

1210041 P. 33 1210035 P. 29 1210035 P. 29 1210120 P. 34/35

1210101 P. 37 1210101 P. 37 1210071 P. 40 1210121 P. 40

47
 YARN DETAILS
Page N Yarn Details

7 1210060 Zegna Baruffa: Millennium, Nm 60/2 (100% WV)

8/9 1210103 Lineapi: Image, Nm 46 (80% VI, 20% PES)
Zegna Baruffa: Millennium, Nm 60/2 (100% WV)
Di.V: Confort, Nm 118 (90% PA, 10% EA)
Sesia: Glac, Nm 67 (70% CO, 30% PES)
Zimmermann: 6348XX (74,7% PA, 25,3% EA)
10/11 1210084 Lineapi: Giselle, Nm 24 (63% VI, 37% PA)
Lineapi: Image, Nm 46 (80% VI, 20% PES)
13/14 1210034 Lineapi: Renoir, Nm 16 (37% PA, 32% WM, 31% WV)
Zegna Baruffa: Cashwool, Nm 30/2 (100% WV)
15 1210109 Lineapi: Image, Nm 46 (80% VI, 20% PES)
Colorific: Monofil T, 80 den (100% PA)
16/17/18 1210019 Zegna Baruffa: Millennium, Nm 60/2 (100% WV)
Igea: Shanty, Nm 50 (88% VI, 12% PA)
Be.Mi.Va.: Cellophane, Nm 150/1 (100% PA)
19 1210110 Zegna Baruffa: Raja, Nm 48/2 (70% WV, 30% WS)
Zegna Baruffa: Millennium, Nm 60/2 (100% WV)
Lineapi: Image, Nm 46 (80% VI, 20% PES)
Igea: Shanty, Nm 50 (88% VI, 12% PA)
21 1210020 Igea: Airsoft, Nm 2,9 (45% WV, 45% PES, 10% PC)
Sesia: Ulisse, Nm 1,2 (100% WV)
22/23 1210021 Lineapi: Giselle, Nm 24 (63% VI, 37% PA)
Sesia: Glac, Nm 67 (70% CO, 30% PES)
24/25 1210144 Zegna Baruffa: Millennium, Nm 60/2 (100% WV)
Be.Mi.Va.: Cellophane, Nm 150/1 (100% PA)
26/27 1210036 Igea: Shanty, Nm 50 (88% VI, 12% PA)
Itessa: Alpaboom Antiflame, Nm 2,5 (50% WP, 45% PC, 5% WV)
Lineapi: Image, Nm 46 (80% VI, 20% PES)
29 1210035 Zegna Baruffa: Cashwool, Nm 30/2 (100% WV)
Sesia: Glac, Nm 67 (70% CO, 30% PES)
Lineapi: Image, Nm 46 (80% VI, 20% PES)
30/31 1210003 Zegna Baruffa: Millennium, Nm 60/2 (100% WV)
1210004 Emilcotoni: York Bright, Nm 200/2 (100% CO)
1210005 Lineapi: Margot, Nm 44 (100% SE)
33 1210041 Lineapi: Image, Nm 46 (80% VI, 20% PES)
Zegna Baruffa: Millennium, Nm 60/2 (100% WV)
Igea: Shanty, Nm 50 (88% VI, 12% PA)
34/35 1210120 Lineapi: Camelot, Nm 22 (44% WM, 37% PA,19% WV)
Lineapi: Image, Nm 46 (80% VI, 20% PES)
37 1210101 Zegna Baruffa: Cashwool, Nm 30/2 (100% WV)
Zegna Baruffa: Noon, Nm 14/2 (70% WV, 30% PA)
Zegna Baruffa: Millennium, Nm 60/2 (100% WV)
Lineapi: Image, Nm 46 (80% VI, 20% PES)
Colorific: Monofil T, 80 den (100% PA)
38/39 1210134 Zegna Baruffa: Cashwool, Nm 30/2 (100% WV)
Igea: Airsoft, Nm 2,9 (45% WV, 45% PES, 10% PC)
40 1210121 Itessa: Alpaca, Nm 16/2 (100% WP)
Igea: Shanty, Nm 50 (88% VI, 12% PA)
1210071 Zegna Baruffa: Millennium, Nm 60/2 (100% WV)
Igea: Shanty, Nm 50 (88% VI, 12% PA)
Lineapi: Image, Nm 46 (80% VI, 20% PES)
Sesia: Glac, Nm 67 (70% CO, 30% PES)
Igea: Pepe, Nm 13,5 (66% VI, 34% WV)
41 1210040 Igea: Airsoft, Nm 2,9 (45% WV, 45% PES, 10% PC)
Zegna Baruffa: Cashwool, Nm 30/2 (100% WV)
Zimmermann: 4495X (93,8% PA, 6,2% EA)
42/43 1210033 Lineapi: Giselle, Nm 24 (63% VI, 37% PA)
Igea: Shanty, Nm 50 (88% VI, 12% PA)
Lineapi: Camelot, Nm 22 (44% WM, 37% PA,19% WV)
44 1210046 Zegna Baruffa: Millennium, Nm 60/2 (100% WV)
Lineapi: Image, Nm 46 (80% VI, 20% PES)
Be.Mi.Va.: Cellophane, Nm 150/1 (100% PA)

48
 STOLL-DEVOR KNIT
THE REBIRTH OF AN
ALMOST FORGOTTEN
STOLL TECHNIQUE

After decades Stoll gives a new renaissance to

an old technique. This pattern technique offers
once again a unique method of knitting
transparent and opaque areas simultaneously.
It enables you to design transparency into your
knits just as you might know from the
appearance of burn-out techniques or so called
devor fabrics. We call it Stoll-devor knit .

Beside the sophisticated look which comes

across with this technology there are other
particular finesses related to this stitch
formation.

Using fine and coarse gauge yarns in one and

the same knit, a considerable reduction of
weight can be obtained. This directly translates
into savings on material and costs especially
for coarse gauge fabrics and precious yarns.
1210118

Devor patterns are knitting patterns that have 2 stitch structures

(stitch and float) laying above each other in one knitting row.

STITCH STITCH 1

2 STITCH FLOAT

The single jersey basic

structure (SJ) is formed
by a thin, transparent
monofilament thread
that is also called binding
thread. The motif results
by selecting stitches that
are formed by thicker
yarn. This yarn is called
motif yarn. The needles
that are not selected
for the stitch will be
driven out and the motif
yarn will be laid-in as
float. Both yarns will
be sunk together.
Devor-pattern Stitch notation
 EXAMPLES FROM THE COLLECTION

1210019 2-ply filigree

P. 16/17/18 structure with
monofilament
knitted in 1x1
with ringed back

with the same

machine setting
you will be also
enabled to knit
robust plush
fabrics if you
think of imitating
animal furs

front side 1210046

P. 44

reverse side
 STOLL HEADQUARTER YARN MANUFACTURERS

GERMANY FILATI BE.MI.VA. S.P.A

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[email protected], www.stoll.com
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[email protected], www.colorific-monofil.de
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INDIA

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CHINA, HONG KONG, TAIWAN, THAILAND, VIETNAM
GEWAND
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[email protected]
TEXTIL REHM
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STUDENTS PROJECT PARTNERS LOCATION

Velia Dietz (1210101 P. 37) Wilhelma

Pina Jax (1210110 P. 19) The Zoological and Botanical Garden
ZEGNA
ZEGNABARUFFA
BARUFFA- LANE
LANE BORGOSESIA
BORGOSESIA S.p.A.
S.p.A.
Sophie Probst (1210109 P. 15) FILATURA IN VALLE MOSSO - ITALY
Wilhelma 13, 70376 Stuttgart
Sarah Wendler (1210103 P. 8/9) WWW.BARUFFA.COM
WWW.BARUFFA.COM
www.wilhelma.de
 EDITORIAL DEPARTEMENT Fashion & Technology ART DIRECTION & GRAPHIC DESIGN ssawstudio.com
PHOTOGRAPHY rafaelkroetz.de HAIR & MAKEUP raheltaeubert.com MODEL Thea Stratton @ NEXT London
PRE-PRESS timeray.de PRINTING leibfarth-schwarz.de

2012 STOLL GMBH & CO. KG