Knots

1. Introduction 7. Double Fishermans

2. Figure of Eight 8. Clove Hitch

3. Overhand 9. Italian Hitch

4. Bowline 10. Prusik

5. Bowline for chest 11. Kleimheist

and harness

6. Fishermans 12. Tape knot

Produced by the BMC Technical Committee, web version 2009

Photos: George Steele

The BMC
The BMC (British The BMC recognises that
Mountaineering Council) climbing, hill walking and
is the representative body mountaineering are activities with
that exists to protect the a danger of personal injury or
freedoms and promote the death. Participants in these
interests of climbers, hill activities should be aware of and
walkers and accept these risks and be
mountaineers, including responsible for their own actions.
ski-mountaineers.

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Tel: 0161 445 6111

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Introduction Figure of Eight
on the bight* and rethreaded

Advantages Uses
This is the second revision and Which knot? This is a comparatively simple 1. For tying on to the rope
first web version of this booklet The main reason for the choice knot to tie which will stay tied
which has received much of a particular knot for use in a even with a fairly stiff rope. 2. For attaching to anchors
support from novices and mountaineering or climbing
experienced people alike. situation are its strength, The two different uses involve
Disadvantages
security and ease of tying. Few, but it is not so easy to tying the knot differently as
All knots require practice and All the knots recommended in shown below
must be checked regularly. Stiff adjust as the bowline. Can be
this booklet have been chosen difficult to untie after loading.
ropes will be more difficult to tie as the strongest and most
than soft ones and the knots Advice
suitable knot for the purpose Can be inflexible when used for
may be less secure. Some mentioned under use.
knots can be tied by several anchoring as it is difficult to
different methods. adjust. If tied wrongly it usually
Length required for turns into an OVERHAND Knot
knots (q,v).The Figure of Eight
All knots require a significant is a stable knot but a
amount of rope in order to be stopper knot is often
tied. To emphasise this point used to tidy up the loose
the length required is stated for end.
each knot.
Length required:
I I mm - 150 cm
9mm - 120 cm.

* bight = a fold at any

point in the rope with
which the knot is tied

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Overhand Knot Bowline and variant
on the bight
This is the classic knot for tying on to the rope.
Advantages Advice
Easy to tie. Does not come Best avoided because of the
undone even with fairly stiff difficulty of untying after
ropes loading.

Disadvantages Length required:

Not easy to adjust. Very difficult I I mm - 80cm
to untie after being loaded. 9mm - 65cm.

Uses
Poor alternative to the Figure of
Eight for tying onto the rope as Advantages
It is easily adjustable but should Length required. I I mm - 85cm,
it is less strong and more
be finished with a stopper knot 9mm - 75 cm.
difficult to untie. Equally poor
alternative for anchoring. tight against the bowline since a
bowline can work loose. Bowline Variant
To join two ropes for abseiling.
Disadvantages Advantages
In stiffer ropes it often will not Less likely to work loose once
'bed down' and can work loose. tightened. Stronger and more
secure. Stopper knot
Uses unnecessary.
Suitable for tying on to the end
of the rope. It can be used Disadvantages
either when tying around the More complex to tie.
waist or to a harness.
Convenient for tying around
large anchors (e.g. blocks).

Advice
Care should be taken when
tying this knot because if tied
too loosely it may turn into a
slip knot. It is important to
finish off the knot with a
'stopper' knot.

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Bowline Fishermans Knot
for chest & sit harness
Advantages Advice
Most harnesses (but not the As shown in the diagram, the Fairly easy to tie. The ends should be taped in
Whillans harness!) can be most comfortable (and the order to minimise the possibility
connected to a chest harness to safest) angle is achieved by Disadvantages of the knot working loose but it
give the higher point of adjustment of the two loops Can work loose, especially with is important to check regularly
attachment which is desirable (one through the chest harness stiff ropes. to ensure it is still bed firmly.
when carrying a sack as in and the other through the sit
alpine or winter climbing. harness). Don't forget to finish Length required:
Uses
off the knot with a stopper 11mm - 85cm, 9mm - 60cm.
Joining two ropes for abseiling.
The method shown is very knot after adjustment.
Forming rope slings.
suitable for this purpose. The
Poor alternative to Double
user is advised to experiment When attached to the rope in
Fishermans.
with the adjustment of the knot this manner it is best to anchor
by hanging suspended in the to the mountain from the front
harness. and to use a belaying method
other than a body or shoulder
belay (such as a Sticht plate or
the Italian Hitch method

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Double Fishermans Clove Hitch
Knot Advantages
Fast and relatively simple to tie
and adjust.

Advantages Advice Disadvantages

Strongest knot for joining ropes. Ends should be taped to Not as strong as the FIGURE
minimise the possibility of the OF EIGHT on the bight for
Disadvantages knot working loose. Check anchoring. Not safe to use at
Care needed to tie correctly. regularly to ensure it is still tied the end of a rope.
Relatively bulky. firmly. A Triple Fishermans may
be appropriate for particularly
Uses
Uses slippy cord.
Anchoring the non-climbing
Joining ropes such as for a long members of the party on fixed
abseil or forming rope slings. Length required: ring belays.
11mm - 105cm, 9mm - 75cm
Advice
Practice in tying the knot is
essential because its normal
use is in situations where speed
may be important.

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Italian Hitch Prusik French
(A friction hitch, not a knot)

A very useful means of

Prusik
absorbing the energy of a fall. Uses Advantages
Used with an HMS karabiner it As a direct belay with an HMS
Advantages
Relatively simple to tie. Can be moved by hand when
provides a useful friction hitch karabiner, for abseiling or
for belaying, lowering and lowering off. under tension.
abseiling.
Disadvantages
Can slip on wet or icy ropes. Disadvantages
Advice
Advantages Practice in tying and using this Can release under tension so
Very quick to set up. Uses should not be used for
knot is essential in order to
Ascending ropes, often in a ascending.
ensure its correct application.
self-rescue situation.
Disadvantages
Easy to tie incorrectly. Uses
Advice Protection during abseil or
It is essential that the PRUSIK locking off by the belayer after a
knot is tied using rope much fall. Hoist and pulley systems.
thinner than the rope around
which it is tied. Advice
Best tied with a fairly short loop.
Length required: 30 cm required As with the Prusik , relatively
for knot alone in 5 mm rope thin rope should be used.
sling.

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Klemheist Tape Knot
Advantages Advice Advantages Advice
Can be tied with any size of Three or more complete turns Relatively simple to tie. Make sure the knot is tight. The
tape used for slings. usually required. For clarity end should be taped to
diagram shows the Kleimheist Disadvantages minimise the possibility of the
Disadvantages being tied with cord - the Can easily work loose. It is knot working loose. Check
Cannot be released under process is identical when tape essential that the knot is regularly to ensure it is still tied
tension. May jam up. is used. tightened under load before firmly.
use.
Length required: 25mm tape -
Uses 65cm.
Can be used in any prusiking Uses
situation. Ideal when only tape
slings available. The only knot suitable for tying tape

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