How To Paint Goblins
How To Paint Goblins
How To Paint Goblins
the series of Hobbit tutorials, this time concentrating on the evil Goblins. Within
the Eascape from Goblin Town boxset there are 38 Goblin Warriors, a Captain,
Grinnah, the Scribe on his swing and the monstrous Goblin King. Painting a large
horde can be daunting so the aim of this tutorial is to speed things up a bit.
Details after the jump.
This tutorial assumes you have a basic understanding of how to paint. For the
beginners, I will explain some techniques such as washing, drybrushing and
stippling as I go along. Each picture below shows four chronological steps.
Underneath each picture are the corresponding instructions. Each step shows the
paint I used during that step. It's good to have reference material close to hand
to check colours. I used google images for film stills and Games Workshop's 360
pictures on their website were a great help.
Paints you will need for this tutorial:
White Primer
Carroburg Crimson (shade)
Eldar Flesh (dry)
Pallid Wych Flesh (layer)
Rhinox Hide (base)
Balor Brown (layer)
Karak Stone (layer)
Gorthor Brown (layer)
Dawnstone (layer)
Administratum Grey (layer)
Skrag Brown (layer)
Jokero Orange (base)
Ironbreaker (layer)
Bloodletter (glaze)
Seraphim Sepia (shade)
Stirland Mud (texture)
XV-88 (base)
1. Undercoat the model white. I used Citadel Skull White spray. I recommend
applying double sided tape to the sides of a stick with a square profile and
sticking as many models to the stick as possible. You will maximise the use of
your spray can by catching models in different angles with the overspray.
2. Using a large brush, load it up with Carroburg Crimson and spread it over the
skin of the model. Don't worry if it goes over details.
3. Citadel Dry paints are more pigment then liquid. These paints have the
consistency of a Crme Brle. In this stage you need to dry brush Eldar Flesh
over the skin areas. To dry brush take a large brush with short bristles (splayed
out is good) dab the tip of the brush in to the paint pot and then wipe it off onto
a tissue until only a little remains on the brush. Then lightly flick across the
model with the brush multiple times to see the dry brush layer build up. It's best
to build it up with light layers to get a softer effect then to hit it with a fully
loaded brush.
4. Repeat the drybrushing stage above with Pallid Wych Flesh. This isn't a Citadel
Dry paint, so you will need to wipe more off onto a tissue.
5. Paint all the details such as weapons, loin cloths, rags, teeth and eyes with
Rhinox hide.
6. Paint the loin cloths, rags and ropes with Balor Brown. You'll notice I've painted
Grinnah's whip with this colour as well. Leave Rhinox Hide showing through
creases, folds and overlapping areas.
7. Highlight the previous stage's colour with Karak Stone.
8. Paint the straggly hair with Gorthor Brown.
13. Using a fine detail brush apply tiny dabs of Ironbreaker along the edges of
the blades.
14. Paint the eyes with Jokearo Orange (you can do this at stage 12 if you wish).
Then using a small brush use Bloodletter Glaze in the creases of the face, the
gums and on and around the eyes. This red tone gives a bit of life to the face and
I think makes them look more evil.
15. The Goblins are covered in pus filled spots and they live in the dank and dirty
Misty Mountains so we need to make the model a little more grubby. I used
Seraphim Sepia to wash over each individual spot/lump. I also used this colour
randomly and sparingly on the skin to show dirt. Small clumps of spotting work
nicely.
Finally base the model in a way which fits in with your collection. I used Stirland
Mud texture paint highlighted with Karak Stone and the base edge was painted
with XV-88. Static grass and scrub were glued on in small clumps.
In conclusion, the washing and drybrushing stages aren't pretty close up but
they really are useful techniques to speed up the painting of such a large
quantity of models. Obviously I've painted two models at the same time. This is
called batch painting, where multiple models are painted at the same time. You
can batch paint as many models as you feel comfortable. I will be batch painting
Hot on the heels of my Bilbo Baggins tutorial, I'm pleased to present to you a 23
step tutorial on how to paint the Wizard Gandalf the Grey. None shall pass... until
they've clicked 'more after the jump'.
This tutorial assumes you have a basic understanding of how to paint and that
you understand terms such as washing, glazing and dry brushing. Each picture
below shows four chronological steps. Underneath each picture are the
corresponding instructions. Each step shows the paint I used during that step. It's
good to have reference material close to hand to check colours. I used google
images for film stills and Games Workshop's 360 pictures on their website were
a great help. We start the tutorial with a Gandalf model already primed black.
1. Paint the face and fingers with Cadian Fleshtone. This might take two coats.
2. Lightly glaze the skin areas with Bloodletter. This will give the flesh a healthy
red tint.
3. Water down Rhinox Hide and paint it into recesses such as between fingers,
under eyes, frown lines. It's important to water it down so it flows from the brush
and doesn't drag.
4. Highlight the skin areas with Kislev Flesh. Because Gandalf is squinting, I
didn't even try to attempt painting his tiny eyes. I just lined them with Rhinox
Hide.
5.
6.
7.
8.
17. Paint the staff, belt and shoes with Rhinox Hide.
18. Highlight the staff, belt and shoes with Gorthor Brown. Click the picture to
see the patterning on the belt and the grain on the staff. These require fine lines,
so use a decent tiny sable brush and thin your paints so it flows from the
bristles.
19. Highlight staff, belt and shoes sparingly on only the most raised edges with
Baneblade Brown. Paint Gandalf's fingerless gloves with Baneblade brown as well
and then wash them with Seraphim Sepia.
20. Highlight the gloves with Karak Stone.
21. Use Ironbreaker to paint Gandalf's sword Glamdring. Don't forget to paint his
belt buckles as well.
22. Highlight the blades edges with Runefang Steel. Use Macragge Blue to paint
the grip of the sword.
23. Base your model to fit in with your collection. I use XV-88 for the base edge
and Stirland Mud texture paint on the base. I lightly drybrush this once it's dry
(takes ages) with Baneblade Brown and then glue on some scrub and static
grass.
Gandalf was a lot of fun to paint, and I'm pleased with how soft his robes came
out all thanks to the glazing. If this tutorial proves popular I might create another
one. Maybe the next tutorial will be speed painted Goblins to help people get
through all 40 goblin models included in the box.
As documented in my review of The Hobbit box set and Stahly's review of White
Dwarf, it has been mentioned there are no detailed painting guides for the new
Hobbit models. If you want those then GW want's you to buy them for the iPad.
Here at Tale of Painters we believe in FREE tutorials and I'm pleased to present to
you a comprehensive 21 step guide to paint Bilbo Baggins using the latest GW
paints.
Each picture below shows six chronological steps. Underneath each picture are
the corresponding instructions. Each step shows the paint I used during that
step. it's good to have reference material close to hand to check colours. I
used google images for film stills and Games Workshop's 360 pictures on
their website were a great help.
1. I hand undercoated the model with Imperial Primer. I didn't want to risk
clogging the details with spray.
2. I painted all the skin areas with Cadian Fleshtone. Don't forget the ears like I
did.
3. I wanted to give my skin a red tone so I lightly glazed it with Bloodletter.
4. I then highlight the skin with Kislev Flesh.
5. One final highlight used sparingly of Pallid Wych Flesh.
6. The hair was painted with a couple of coats of Balor Brown.
13. Highlight the trousers with XV-88 and paint the scarf with this colour.
14. Highlight the scarf with Balor Brown.
15. If you're feeling brave enough paint the scarf pattern on with Eshin Grey. It's
just some microscopic lines and dots. Dot the spots with some Pallid Wych Flesh.
16. Use Khorne Red to paint the jacket.
17. Watered down (or Lahmian Medium) Rhinox Hide is used to shade the jacket
in the same way the trousers were shaded.
18. Highlight the jacket with Wazdakka Red.
19. Paint Bilbo's sword Sting with Runefang Steel. This blade is so small it doesn't
require a lot of work. I just shaded lightly with very watered down Abbadon black.
Don't forget to paint Bilbo's buttons silver as well.
20. Paint the base with the Citadel Texture paint of your choice. I chose Stirland
Mud.
21. I painted the base rim with XV-88, and highlighted the texture with
Baneblade brown. Some static grass and scrub was added to finish the model
off.