No 27 Aug 2007
No 27 Aug 2007
No 27 Aug 2007
Nr. 27
August 2007
TOF on air!
On Thursday of every third
week of the month, you can hear The
Organic Farmer on the Kiswahili Service of
KBC from 8.30 pm to 8.45 pm. In the next
programme we will talk about income
generation with dairy goats, poultry and
mushrooms. Tune in on Thursday 20th
August, 2007, 8.30pm!
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OPINIONS
Quote: There is, of course, a gold
mine or a buried treasure on every
mortgaged homestead. Whether the
farmer ever digs for it or not, it is
there, haunting his daydreams when
the burden of debt is most unbearable.
Quote: Life on a farm is a school of
patience; you cant hurry the crops or
make an ox in two days.
Quote: No one hates his job so
heartily as a farmer. H.L. Mencken
Quote: Never answer a question
from a farmer. Hubert H. Humphrey
magazine
August 2007
Row intercropping
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August 2007
How to
use green manures
If you grow green manures in crop
rotation, the time of sowing must be
chosen such that the green manures
can be cut down and worked into the
soil before the next crop is sown.
Green manures need water for germination and growth!
If legumes and green manure are
grown in a field for the first time,
inoculation of the seeds with the
specific rhizobia (soil bacteria) may
be necessary to benefit from nitrogen
fixation by the legume; you can find
the inoculation material in Kenya
Seed Company stores and shops.
In the undersown method, the
green manure is sown at the same
time as the main crop or a little bit
later, if the green manure grows
faster than the main crop.
The time gap between digging in
the green manure into the soil and
planting the next crop should not
be longer than 2 to 3 weeks, so as to
prevent nutrient losses from decomposing green manure.
Green manures are worked in easily
when the plants are still young; if
they are taller or too bulky, it is preferabe to chop the plants. The best
time to dig in green manures is just
before flowering.
Green manures should be incorporated near the surface of the soil,
not too deep: In heavy soils, dig in
5 to 15 cm; in light soils, 10 cm to a
maximum of 20 cm!
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August 2007
Control methods
There are several methods of controlling fruit flies. The approach that is
being promoted by ICIPE is to adopt a
combination of methods by applying
Integrated Pest Management (IPM)
techniques.
Baiting technique: The traditional
method of fruit fly control is based
on use of food baits. The bait attracts
the fruit flies from a distance to the
spot of application, where the flies
feed on the bait, ingest the pesticide
and die. The bait is normally applied
to a 1 square meter (1 m)spot on the
canopy of each tree in the orchard on
a weekly basis, starting from when
the fruits are about 1 cm in size
and continues till the very end of
the harvest. Several commercial baits
are available in the market, such as
NuLure, Buminal and Solbait, that
can be mixed with pesticide such
as Spinosad and applied as above.
Another commercial product is GF120 (Success). This bait is already
pre-mixed with pesticide (Spinosad)
Con
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August 2007
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August 2007
Compost kitchen
waste well before use
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July 2007
James Gacheru,
P.O Box 521-00902 Kikuyu
Mushroom-story helped us
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August 2007