Denim Fading
Denim Fading
Denim Fading
Enzyme Treatment
C. W. Kan, C. W. M. Yuen, W. Y. Wong
Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hung Hom, Kowloon, Hong Kong
Received 18 August 2010; accepted 4 October 2010
DOI 10.1002/app.33561
Published online 14 February 2011 in Wiley Online Library (wileyonlinelibrary.com).
ABSTRACT: In this article, the effect of enzyme treatment using neutral cellulase on the color fading property
of cotton denim fabric was studied. Four enzyme processing parameters namely treatment temperature, treatment
time, pH value, and agitation were considered. To investigate the optimum condition for the enzyme treatment, an
orthogonal analysis was used and, based on the K/S summation value (K/S Sum), the optimum condition for
enzyme treatment in this study was treatment temperature 50 C; treatment time 30 min; pH value 8; and
agitation 50 steel balls (simulated mild agitation) for
INTRODUCTION
Denim garment plays an important role in fashion
and textiles industry. Denim jeans provide durability
and slightly worn look for fashionable appearance
which is the reason why denim jeans are welcomed
by most people over the world. However, it also gives
wearers heavy and rigid sensations due to the sturdy
construction of twill weave and the finishing processes involved. Nowadays, consumers are more concerned with garment comfortable attributes such as
lightweight, smoothness, and softness.1 There are a
number of methods for denim garment for achieving
smooth and soft hand feel1,2 and among these methods, enzyme treatment produces novel fashionable
stone-washing appearance.24 It can also improve fabric quality such as softer hand feel and smoother surface by removing protruding fibers on fabric surface.
Recently, cellulase, as an enzyme, can be used for
treating denim fabric biologically for getting desired
worn and aged effect without going through conventional denim washing with pumice stone.5,6 The
action of cellulases and mechanical agitation, simultaneously or sequentially, will abrade fiber surface,
releasing cotton fiber and causing defrillation at the
surface. In the denim fabrics, due to the enzyme ab-
TABLE I
Factors and Levels Used in Orthogonal Analysis
Factor
level
Treatment
temperature
( C)
Treatment
time (min)
pH
Agitation
(No. steel balls)
I
II
III
50
55
60
30
60
90
6
7
8
0
50
100
3597
(1)
Treatment
temperature ( C)
Treatment
time (min)
pH
Agitation
(No. steel balls)
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
50
50
50
55
55
55
60
60
60
30
60
90
30
60
90
30
60
90
6
7
8
7
8
6
8
6
7
0
50
100
100
0
50
50
100
0
3598
TABLE III
Orthogonal Table for the Optimization
of Cellulase Treatment
Factors
Test
Run
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
RI
RII
RIII
Difference
Temperature
Agitation
( C)
50
50
50
55
55
55
60
60
60
1918.47
1669.86
1869.78
248.61
0
50
100
100
0
50
50
100
0
1744.37
1866.30
1847.44
121.93
Time
(min)
pH
30
6
60
7
90
8
30
7
60
8
90
6
30
8
60
6
90
7
1919.37 1822.15
1781.35 1805.00
1757.39 1830.96
161.98
25.96
K/S
sum
648.75
637.67
632.05
594.52
522.81
552.53
676.10
620.87
572.81
3599
3600
value of the control fabric (724.64). Inside the cellulosic fiber, it consists of the crystalline and amorphorous regions. In the crystalline region, the molecular
chains are well organize and closely packed, the size
of cellulase is not small enough to enter this region
to initiate hydrolysis action.20 The cellulase is then
entering the amorphous region easily where the
space is sufficient for the cellulase to enter and consequently hydrolysis is taking place here.3 After hydrolysis, some of the cellulosic fibers together with
the dye in the amorphous region would be removed.
The amount of dye in the fiber would then be
reduced resulting in the reduction of K/S Sum
value.
Weight loss
The action of enzyme and mechanical agitation will
abrade fiber surface and cotton fiber would be
released resulting in weight reduction. Figure 2 illustrates the weight loss of denim fabrics under different treatment conditions as shown in Table II. After
enzyme treatment, weight loss was observed but the
degree of weight loss was various with different
TABLE IV
Colour Fastness to Laundering of Different Fabric Samples
Staining
Treatment
condition
Colour
change
Wool
Acrylic
Polyester
Nylon
Cotton
Acetate Rayon
Control
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Optimum condition
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
4
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
4
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
23
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
3601
TABLE V
Colour Fastness to Crocking of Different Fabric Samples
Warp
Weft
Treatment
condition
Dry
Wet
Dry
Wet
Control
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Optimum condition
3
34
34
34
4
34
34
34
34
34
4
12
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
3
34
34
34
34
34
34
34
34
34
4
12
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
Figure 3 L* value of denim fabrics treated under the different treatment conditions.
Figure 4 a* value of denim fabrics treated under the different treatment conditions.
CIE L* value
Figure 3 shows the L* values of denim fabrics
treated under the different treatment conditions. L*
value indicates the lightness of the sample. The
higher L* value is, the lighter the sample is. It is a
fact that after the cellulase treatment, the L* values
increased accordingly. The lightness depends on
greatly on the surface texture of the sample. There
are two factors contributing the lightness of cellulosic materials influenced by cellulase action. The
first factor is that the cellulase action gives indigodyed cotton fabric an aged appearance (i.e., biostoning) while the second factor is to give cotton fabric a
revived appearance by removing the surface fiber
(i.e., depilling or biopolishing). Both factors contribute to change the lightness of the cellulase treated
denim fabric. During the action of cellulase and mechanical agitation, the depilling or biopolishing
effect occurs at the fabric surface and consequently
the surface fibers were removed.11 At the same time,
Figure 5 b* value of denim fabrics treated under the different treatment conditions.
Journal of Applied Polymer Science DOI 10.1002/app
3602
TABLE VI
DE of Different Fabric Samples
Sample
DE
Optimum condition
1.63
1.48
1.48
0.90
3.21
2.62
1.83
2.72
2.23
4.68
3603
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