General information

This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and
peak performance.
The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task
in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to
the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of
the various components.
Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections
will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals, will not produce
the same results.
As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can - and should - be grouped
together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the proximity of two otherwise
unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be
inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components.
The first step in this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and
gather all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a
dealer service department.

1 Intensive maintenance
1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks
are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in
relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised.
2
It is possible that there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular
maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance
checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular
maintenance intervals.
3
If engine wear is suspected, a compression test (refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 2) will provide
valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used
as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If. for example, a compression test indicates
serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the
performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work is carried
out first.
4 The following series of operations are those most often required to improve the performance of a generally
poor-running engine:

Primary operations
a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (See Weekly Checks").
b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See Weekly Checks").
c) Check the condition and tension of the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 25).
d) Renew the sparkplugs (Section 19).
e) Inspect the distributor cap and rotor arm (Section 23).
f) Check the condition of the air filter, and renew if necessary (Section 20).
g) Check the fuel filter (Section 27).
h) Check the condition of all hoses, and check for fluid leaks (Section 7).
i) Check the exhaust gas emissions (Section 30).
5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations:

Secondary operations
All items listed under Primary operations, plus the following:
a) Check the charging system (see relevant Part of Chapter 5).
b) Check the ignition system (see relevant Part of Chapter 5).
c) Check the fuel system (see relevant Part of Chapter 4).
d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm (Section 23).
e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 23)

Oil change service - OEL on interval display

improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands (see Jacking
and Vehicle Support"). Whichever method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle,
that the drain plug is at the lowest point.
1 Using a socket and wrench or a ring spanner, slacken the drain plug about half a turn (see illustration).
Position the draining
container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely (see Haynes Hint). Recover the sealing ring
from the drain plug.

2 Engine oil and filter renewal f^>

2 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by
the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.
3
Before starting this procedure, gather all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you
have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as
it will drain better, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust
or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to
protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to
wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly
3.3 Slackening the sump drain plug
HAYNES

Keep the drain plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand last couple of turns. 4s the plug releases,
move it away sharply so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the container, not up your sleeve!

Oil change service - Petrol 1A.9

3.7 Using a chain wrench to slacken the oil filter

4 Allow
some
time
for
the
old
oil
noting
that
it
may
be
necessary
to
the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
5
After
all
the
oil
has
drained,
wipe

to

drain,
reposition
off

the

drain
plug
with
a
clean
rag,
and
fit
a
new
sealing
washer.
Clean
the
area
around
the
drain
plug
opening,
and
refit
the
plug.
Tighten
the plug securely.
6
If
the
filter
is
also
to
be
renewed,
move
the
container
into
position
under
the
oil
filter,
which
is
located
on
the
front
side
of
the
cylinder block, below the inlet manifold.
7
Using
an
oil
filter
removal
tool
if
necessary,
slacken
the
filter
initially,
then
unscrew
it
by
hand
the rest of the way (see illustration). Empty the
oilin
the
filter
into
the
container;
puncture
holes
in
the
filter
to
ensure
it
drains
completely,
then
dispose properly of the empty filter.
8 Use
a
clean
rag
to
remove
all
oil,
dirt
and
sludge
from
the
filter
sealing
area
on
the
engine.
Check
the
old
filter
to
make
sure
that
the
rubber
sealing
ring
has
not
stuck
to
the
engine. If it has, carefully remove it.
9 Apply
a
light
coating
of
clean
engine
oil
to
the
sealing
ring
on
the
new
filter,
then
screw
it
into
position
on
the
engine.
Tighten
the
filter
firmly by hand only - do not use any tools.
Note:
It
is
antisocial
and
illegal
to
dump
oil
down the drain.
To
find
the
location
of
your
local
oil
recycling
bank,
call
this
number free.
10 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the car then lower the car to the ground (if applicable).
11
Remove the dipstick, then unscrew the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover. Fill the engine, using
the correct grade and type of oil (see Lubricants and fluids). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce
spillage. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump.
Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the cross-hatched on the dipstick. Refit the
filler cap.
12
Start the engine and run it for a few minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump
drain plug. Note that there may be a few seconds delay before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the
engine is started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter (where fitted) before
the pressure builds up.
13
Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new
oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
14
Dispose of the used engine oil and filter safely, with reference to General repair procedures" in the
Reference section of this manual.

3 Front brake pad check

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands. Remove
the front roadwheels.
2
For a comprehensive check, the brake pads should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the
caliper can then also be checked, and the condition of the brake disc itself can be fully examined on both sides.
Refer to Chapter 9 (see Haynes Hint).
3 If any pads friction material is worn to the specified thickness or less, all four pads must be renewed as a set.

4 Resetting the
service interval display

1 After all necessary maintenance work has

For a quick check, the thickness of the friction material on each brake pad can be measured through the aperture in
the caliper body
been completed, the relevant service interval display code must be reset. If more than one service schedule is
carried out, note that the relevant display intervals must be reset individually.
2 The display is reset using the reset button on the left-hand side of the instrument panel (below the
speedometer) and the clock setting button on the right-hand side of the panel (below the clock/tachometer); on
models with a digital clock the lower (minute) button is used. Resetting is carried out as follows.
3
Turn the ignition switch and check that the speedometer mileage indicator is set to the mileage setting
and not the trip meter setting. When this is so, press and hold in the button on the left of the instrument panel.
Keeping the button depressed, switch off the ignition and release the button. The word OEL should be shown on
the display, by depressing the left-hand button again the display will change to IN 01" followed by IN 02. Set
the display to the relevant service which has just been performed, then depress the clock adjustment button
briefly until
------- is displayed; this indicates that the
service interval display has been reset. Repeat the reset procedure for all the relevant service display intervals.
4 Once the resetting procedure is complete, switch on the ignition and check that IN 00 is shown in the display.

0S00 66 33 66

www.oltbanhllno.org.uk

Annual inspection - IN 01 on interval display

5 Automatic transmission fluid level check

096 transmission

1 Take the vehicle on a short journey, to

warm the transmission up to normal operating temperature, then park the vehicle on level ground. The fluid level
is checked using the dipstick located at the front of the engine compartment, on the front of the transmission unit.
2 With the engine idling and the selector lever
in the P" (Park) position, withdraw the dipstick from the tube, and wipe all the fluid from its end with a clean rag
or paper towel. Insert the clean dipstick back into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it once more. Note
the fluid level on the end of the dipstick; it should be between the MAX and MIN marks

amo Annual inspection - Petrol

6.9 01M automatic transmission fluid level check

1 Level plug
2 Level tube
2 Filler cap 4 Retaining clip

6.2 Note the fluid level on the end of the dipstick; it should be between the "MAX and MIN marks
(see illustration). Note: If the engine has not been warmed up, the fluid level should be at the 20C mark.
3 If topping-up is necessary, add the required quantity of the specified fluid to the transmission through the

dipstick tube. Use a funnel with a fine mesh gauze, to avoid spillage, and to ensure that no foreign matter enters
the transmission. Note: Never overfill the transmission so that the fluid level is above the upper mark.
4
After topping-up. take the vehicle on a short run to distribute the fresh fluid, then recheck the level
again, topping-up if necessary.
5
Always maintain the level between the two dipstick marks. If the level is allowed to fall below the lower
mark, fluid starvation may result, which could lead to severe transmission damage. If the level is too high, the
excess fluid may be ejected. In either case, an incorrect level will adversely affect the operation of the
transmission.
6 Frequent need for topping-up indicates that there is a leak, which should be found and corrected before it
becomes serious.

01M transmission
Note: An accurate fluid level check can only be made with the transmission fluid at a temperature of between 35C and 45C;
if it is not possible to ascertain this temperature, it is strongly recommended that the check be made by a VW dealer who will
have the instrumentation to check the temperature and to check the transmission electronics for fault codes. Overfilling or
underfilling adversely affects the function of the transmission.
7 Take the vehicle on a short journey to warm the transmission slightly (see Note above), then park the vehicle
on level ground and engage P with the selector lever. Raise the front and rear of the vehicle and support it on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), ensuring the vehicle is kept level. Undo the retaining screws and
remove the engine undershield(s) to gain access to the base of the transmission unit.
8
Start the engine and run it at idle speed until the transmission fluid temperature reaches 35C.
9 Unscrew the fluid level plug from the
bottom of the transmission sump (see illustration).
10 If fluid continually drips from the level tube as the fluid temperature increases, the fluid level is correct and
does not need to be topped-up. Note that there will be some fluid already present in the level tube, and it will be
necessary to observe when this amount has drained before making the level check. Make sure that the check is
made before the fluid temperature reaches 45C. Check the condition of the seal on the level plug and renew it if
necessary by cutting off the old seal and fitting a new one. Refit the plug and tighten to the specified torque.
11
If no fluid drips from the level tube, even when the fluid temperature has reached 45C, it will be
necessary to add fluid as follows while the engine is still running.
12 Using a screwdriver, lever off the cap from the filler tube on the side of the transmission sump. Note: On some
models the locking device will be permanently damaged and a new cap must be obtained. On other models, the cap securing
clip must be renewed.
13 With the cap removed, pull out the filler tube plug then add the specified fluid until it drips out of the level
tube. Check the condition of the seal on the level plug and renew it if necessary by cutting off the old seal and
fitting a new one. Refit the plug and tighten to the specified torque.
14
Refit the filler tube plug and the new cap or cap securing clip.
15
Switch off the ignition then refit the engine undershield(s), tighten the retaining screws securely, and
lower the vehicle to the ground.
16
Frequent need for topping-up indicates that there is a leak, which should be found and corrected before
it becomes serious.

Hose and fluid leak check