Vermicomposting Using Local Varieties of Earthworms
Vermicomposting Using Local Varieties of Earthworms
Vermicomposting Using Local Varieties of Earthworms
EARTHWORMS
About two thousand five hundred species of earthworms have been
identified in the world of which more than five hundred species of
earthworms have been identified in India. These earthworms can be
cultured or used in composting applying simple procedures either in pits,
crates, tanks, concrete rings or any containers. Organic material to be used
is recommended only after pre-processing or pre-digestion of respective
material through partial anaerobic phase (done under black polythene cover
or with a clay seal layer). The biodung composting technology standardised
by Dr Priti Joshi is highly recommended as a pre-digestion mechanism.
Diversity of earthworm species varies with different types of soils and hence
choosing a local or native species of earthworm for the local soil and for
vermicomposting is an important step. There is no need to import
earthworms from elsewhere. Local species of earthworms that are generally
used in India are Perionyx excavatus and Lampito mauritii.
Compost pit of any convenient dimension can be dug in the backyard or
garden or in a field. The most convenient pit of easily manageable size is
2m x 1m x 0.75m. [A tank may be constructed with brick and mortar with
proper water outlets, or a plastic crate (600 mm x 300 mm x 300 mm) with
holes drilled at the bottom or empty wooden crates (deal wood boxes/apple
cases) or well rings made of cement or clay of 750 mm diameter and 300 to
450 mm height can also be used with slight modifications in the thickness of
layers used. If nothing is available then four worn out car-tyres be placed
one above the other and composting started in it. To make it simpler it can
also be done in a 25-litre bucket]
Vermibed (vermes= earthworms; bed= bedding) is the actual layer of good
moist loamy soil placed at the bottom, about 150 to 200 mm thick above a
thin layer (50 mm) of broken bricks and coarse sand. Earthworms are
introduced into the loamy soil, which the worms will inhabit as their home.
About 100 earthworms (a combination of epigeics and anecics) may be
introduced into a compost pit of about 2m x 1m x 0.75m, with a vermibed
of about 15 to 20 cm thick. The vermibed should always be kept moist, but
should never be flooded.
Handful? lumps of fresh cattle dung are then placed at random over the
vermibed. The compost pit is then layered to about 50 mm with dry leaves
or preferably chopped hay/straw. For the next 30 days the pit is kept moist
by watering it whenever necessary. The bed should neither be dry nor
soggy. The pit may then be covered with coconut or Palmyra leaves or an
old jute (gunny) bag to discourage birds. Plastic sheets on the bed are to be
avoided as they trap heat. After the first 30 days, as above, wet organic
waste of animal and/or plant origin from the kitchen or hotel or hostel or
farm that has been pre-digested is spread over it to a thickness of about 50
mm. This can be repeated twice a week. All these organic wastes can be
turned over or mixed periodically with a pickaxe or a spade. Care should be
taken not to disturb the vermibed in which the worms live. Keep adding
garbage till the compost pit is nearly full. Continue to keep the pit moist for
another 30 to 45 days, turning over the material in the pit with care
avoiding injury to the worms. Turning over can be done on every fifth or
seventh day with the help of a forked spade.
Regular watering should be done to keep the right amount of moisture in
the pits. In 60 to 90 days the compost should be ready as indicated by the
presence of earthworm castings (vermicompost) on the top of the bed.
The compost should be turned occasionally since this allows for aeration. If
the weather is very dry it should be dampened periodically. The pile should
be moist not wet and soggy.
Vermicompost can now be harvested from the bin/pit. The material should
be placed in a heap in the sun so that most of the worms move down to the
cool base of the heap. The compost is then sieved before being packed. .
The earthworms and the thicker material, which remains on top of the
sieve, goes back in the bin and the process starts again. Compost works
best with a mixture of coarse and fine materials, layered together.
An interesting fact is that it was Charles Darwin who was one of the first
persons who noted the importance of earthworms, more than a century
ago. These "creepy-crawly" creatures are the most useful gardeners. They
break down dead plant material and other organic wastes, recycle the
nutrients, and turn over the soil. You can collect earthworms from your
neighbourhood or get earthworms from nurseries. One can also contact the
local agricultural department, municipalities, and nurseries of the forest
departments for earthworms. Since earthworms are now becoming big
business one can also check in the firms/horticultures/nurseries, which deal
in earthworms, but is always desirable to collect them yourselves.
FOUR-TANK SYSTEM
To simplify the loading procedure for
composting in rural sectors where the
availability of organic material is not in
bulk, a four-tank system can be set up
based on a combination of biodung
Tank
Process
000 030
01
01
02
Collection of biomass
01
Inoculation of earthworms
02
Biodung preparation
03
Biomass collection
01
02
Vermicomposting
03
Biodung preparation
030 060
060 090
090 120
120 140
04
Biomass collection
01
02
03
Vermicomposting
04
Biodung preparation
TWO-TANK SYSTEM
Another layering of waste over a
period of time follows this and it takes
about two months for the tank to be
filled. This is then covered with a black
polythene sheet. The waste is now
added to the second tank. The
polythene sheet is removed after 15 to
20 days, allowed to cool for a day and
about 150 to 200 locally collected
earthworms are released into the
biomass. It takes approximately 45 to 60 days for the biomass to be now
converted into vermicompost. In the mean time the second tank gets filled
and starts decomposing. The earthworms from the first tank by now start
migrating into the second tank through the vents. The vermicompost is
harvested from the first tank, which is now again ready for being filled.
The tank may be kept closed with a steel mesh cover to keep other animals
away from damaging the set up. Out door plan requires about 10-20%
more worms than the indoor method, as there are more predators and
other climatic variables in open cage system.
Activity:
How to collect native earthworms?
Identify worm-inhabited soils marked by visible earthworm castings on the
soil surface. Dissolve about 500gm jaggery (native sugar) and 500gm fresh
cattle dung in 20 litres of water. Sprinkle on an area 1m x 1m. Cover with
straw, leave cattle dung lumps and cover with an old gunny bag. Keep
watering for about 20 to 30 days. A combination of epigeic and anecic
native worms will aggregate here that could be collected and used.