Soap Making

The Process
of
Cold Process Soap Making
Now that you have all your ingredients and equipment prepared, you are ready to begin the
actual lye soap making procedure.
At this point, make sure that you are wearing your rubber gloves and goggles. Don't take
them off until you are completely done with all the cold process soap making steps!
Step 1: First, you need to prepare the lye solution by mixing the carefully weighed dry lye
according to the recipe with the appropriate amount of water.
Make sure that you never use hard water for cold process soap making because the unwanted
substances within the water could take part in the reaction. You can get your water tested for
hardness at your local appliance store.
Tip: If you have hard water, and don't want to undergo the expense of purchasing a water
softener, I urge you to buy distilled water. I personally always use distilled water in my soap
recipes... I think it's just good practice.
Measure out the dry lye in a small Ziploc bag or a container with a lid so that you can safely seal
it in case of interruption. Be sure to make your lye measurement exact!
Once you are ready to mix the components Remember to always pour the lye into the water,
not the water into the lye!
Mix the lye and water combination continuously until all the lye is dissolved. Do not break in
mixing. Keep in mind that the reaction alone will cause the solution to heat to more then 200
degrees Fahrenheit; so be careful and only use a container that can easily withstand that type of
heat!
How much water do you use? Well, most soap recipes will tell you, but as a general rule, use
an approximate 1/3 lye to water ration - 3 ounces of water for every 1 ounce of lye.
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----------------------------------------------------------------------Understand that the H2O molecules do not actually take part in the cold process soap making
reaction, but merely serve as a solvent. If only dry sodium hydroxide is used, it won't all be able
to interact with all the oils or fats in the recipe. The addition of water ensures the equal spread of
the sodium hydroxide throughout each and every ingredient.
Although the amount of water doesn't need to be exact for successful lye soap making, too much
water can cause the soap to become soft while too little water can cause the soap to become
caustic and dry.
OK... take a deep breath and relax. You've successfully created your lye solution! Now insert
one of your two soap making thermometers into the liquid and Set the mixture to the side for
later use. Be sure to keep it in a safe area away from children, pets, or any other passerby.
Step 2: Prepare the acid by pouring the appropriate weights of the oils or fats into the large
soap making pot. At this point, Make sure that you only insert the liquids.
Next, put the appropriate weights of your solid fats or oils into the 3 quart saucepan and melt to
liquid form. Add this to the other liquid oils in the large pot.
Keep in mind that The measuring of oils and fats (and all other ingredients) must always be
done by weight, never by volume. This is because the measurements need to be exact for the
best soap making results.
With too little fats or oils, the soap will be caustic as there is leftover lye that couldn't take part in
the reaction.
With too much fats or oils, the soap will become extremely soft as there will be extra
unadulterated acids that could not react with any lye.
Most soap makers purposely add extra beneficial fats and oils to their recipe so that consumers
can experience the added skin care effects of these oils in non saponified form. This is called
super fatting or lye discounting. As super fatting on your own is a more advanced and delicate
technique, just remember to follow the recipe to a tee when first starting out. Pretty much all
recipes are already super-fatted for you so that there's no risk of extra lye in your soap.
You can also add a natural preservative (antioxidant) like rosemary oleoresin extract to the fats
and oils mixture before moving forward.
Now insert your second thermometer into this concoction and set the mixture to the side for
future use.
At this point, you should have one container with a lye and water mixture (the base), and one
container with the oils, fats and optional preservative (your acid).
Step 3. Now wait till both mixtures drop to the recommended temperature. Most soap recipes
will indicate what temperature to mix the lye with the fats and oils, but remember that this part of
the cold process soap making method is mostly subjective.
As for me, I like to mix my solutions at around 95 degrees Fahrenheit for castile soap or any
other all vegetable oil soap. Although I don't personally make soap with animal fats like tallow
and lard, I hear that it is recommended that you combine your ingredients at a higher temperature
somewhere around 110 degrees Fahrenheit for these ingredients. Experiment, once you are more
experienced, but for the time being just follow whichever recipe you may be using.
If you are extremely lucky, the two mixtures will hit the desired temperature at the same time,
but more then likely you will have to adjust the temperatures to get them just right.
You can warm up either solution by inserting the container into hot water or cool it down by
inserting the container into cold water until the temperatures are equal. I usually do this right in
my kitchen sink.
Step 4. After the desired temperatures are met, slowly pour the lye into the oils and fats mixture
while stirring vigorously. Notice that I transfered my lye solution into a Pyrex measuring cup to
make it easier to slowly pour the chemical into the oils. I did this after the lye cooled down
substantially as not to risk breaking the glass with the hot lye/water solution.
This is the most important step in the cold process soap making procedure. You must stir the
solution constantly and rather briskly in order for all the necessary molecules to interact. I find it
best to stir the liquid in a figure eight pattern. For even faster results, you can use a powered
stick blender.
How do you know when the soap mixture is ready? Well, when it starts to saponify. Test the
mixture to see if the reaction is occurring by drizzling some soap from your mixing spoon onto
the surface of the liquid.
If the soap stays on top of the solution for a brief period before sinking back into the rest of the
solution, saponification has taken place, and the soap is ready. This stage is commonly called
trace.
Keep on mixing until you reach trace... this should take 45 minutes to 1 hour for most cold
process soap making recipes if stirred manually, but keep in mind that the time it takes for the
formula to saponify may vary drastically. If a stick blender is used, trace can sometimes occur in
as little as 2 minutes!
Step 5. After trace is reached, add the other ingredients including essential oils or fragrances and
other various nutrients. Be creative, or do as the recipe calls for. At this point, you can also add
your soap making dye.
Mix the concoction until everything looks even toned.
Step 6. Pour the soap into your choice of soap making molds. From PVC pipe to elegant
decorative shapes, there is a large variety of molds to choose from. I personally like to pour my
soap into a wooden loaf mold, and then cut it into bars after it hardens, but use your own
creativity. After all, that's part of the fun!
Step 7. Cover the mold with its lid (or a piece of cardboard) and then wrap it with towels. You
can never insulate your soap too generously! I use about 6 - 8 towels. You want to make sure that
no heat can escape, as this is essential for the initial curing process.
Now leave the soap for about 18 - 36 hours depending on the ingredients used. Once again, the
recipe should suggest how long to let the soap initially cure before cutting.
Step 8. Once the soap has somewhat solidified within the wooden soap mold and is hard enough
to slice, carefully measure and cut it into equal bars... or, if you are using my wooden soap mold
with built in cutting slots, begin slicing your bars using the integrated guide. If needed, trim and
carve the soap until the desired shape is formed.
If you used individual molds, remove the already formed soap bars.
Lay the new soap on a rack so that air can circulate around it. Flip them over about once every 6
- 8 days. The soap will now need to cure for 3 - 8 weeks depending on the recipe. Patience is
essential for cold process soap making, but the wait is well worth the reward!
During this time, the soaps PH level will remarkably drop and your finished product will be
wonderful mild and natural homemade soap.
Before you use your soap, be sure to scrape off any white powder (soda ash) that formed on the
top of the bars. This substance can be drying to the skin.
Clean Up Time...
Remember to label every single tool as "use for soap making only" so that it's not mixed in with
your cooking supplies. Even if you feel that your supplies are cleaned thoroughly, I wouldn't
risk cooking with it!
Make sure to wash everything by hand. Don't use the dishwasher, because the leftover soapy
residue can cause it to leak! This will also help avoid contaminating other kitchen utensils with
the harmful lye.
Finally, be sure to store all extra supplies (especially lye) in a safe area away from children
and pets.
Congratulations! You now know how to make soap at home using the cold process soap
making method. Pick from one of my many soap recipes and give it a try! I hope that as you
continue to learn about soap making, you will be able to use this website as your own personal
resource.
Oh, and Don't forget, you can contact me anytime with your questions. I'm more then happy
to help!
Soapmaking Ingredients
This is Part 1 of 4 in A Beginners Guide to Soapmaking.
Next: Tools
There are tons of recipes available for soapmaking, using a wide variety of ingredients. This is my recipe
to make an all-vegetable soap using a few common oils. I recommend you follow a tried and true recipe
first before you start experimenting with your own recipes. I have to admit though, I found a recipe
similar to what I wanted, then scaled it down and changed it.
Ingredients:
18.5 ounces Olive oil moisturizing
12 ounces Coconut oil for good lather
9 ounces Palm oil for a firm bar
1 ounce Shea butter moisturizing
5.8 ounces Lye a.k.a. Sodium Hydroxide
13.5 ounces water
These ingredients yield 51 ounces of soap, which I cut into 14 bars. The total cost of ingredients
per ounce of soap was only 15 cents! (This is for a pure, unscented bar. This would not include
the cost for any essential oils for fragrance, which can be expensive.)
More notes about ingredients:
I purchased the olive oil and coconut oil locally. I purchased the palm oil, shea butter, and lye
from The Soap Dish. I did purchase some of the oils in large quantities for a better price, but I
know I will use them.
Many people are concerned about using lye, but the fact is you have to use it. I found that as long
as you are careful, there is nothing to be fearful about. The lye reacts with the oils to create soap.
This is called saponification. If you measure your ingredients properly, there will be no lye
remaining in your final soap product.
This brings me to my next point: always double-check someones soap recipe to make sure it has
the right amount of lye. Each oil requires a certain amount of lye per ounce. You can calculate it
yourself using a saponification table, or by using an online lye calculator such as this one from
Majestic Mountain Sage. You want just enough lye to react with all but about 5% of your oils.
Having 5% excess oils will give you a mild, smooth bar.
Soapmaking Tools
Previously: Ingredients | Next: Process
Tools Needed for Making Cold-Process Soap
Stick Blender- Also called an immersion blender, it does an hours worth of stirring in about 5
minutes, which ensures a better result. I have a Cuisinart immersion blender, and I recommend it.
Its sturdy, and with the push of a button the stick detaches from the handle for washing it.
Digital Scale Precise measuring of ingredients by weight is essential, especially for smaller
batches. I have this digital scale. (I use it for baking and calculating postage too.)
Stainless Steel Pot Stainless steel is recommended for your soapmaking pot. The lye will react
to an aluminum, teflon-coated, or cast iron pot. An enamel-covered pot could work well, but I
would be concerned about the stick blender chipping the enamel.
Bowls a couple of bowls for measuring and mixing. At least one needs to be stainless steel or
pyrex, so it can withstand high heat. Use stainless steel, glass, or plastic for your bowls and
spoons. Do not use any made of aluminum or wood.
Spoons for measuring and stirring. I use my stainless silverware spoons. Do not use wooden
spoons.
Thermometer a candy or cooking thermometer.
Soap Mold a wood or plastic box. Your soap mold can be any container. I used a wooden plant
box from Ikea. Some people have even used milk cartons or pringle cans.
Freezer Paper to line the soap mold, so the soap wont stick.
Cardboard Box large enough to cover the soap mold.
Knife Use a kitchen knife with a large blade.
Glasses & Gloves for safety when handling lye. I wore an old pair of glasses. Rubber gloves
will protect your hands from becoming irritated by the lye.

Previously: Ingredients | Next: Process
Soapmaking Process
Previously: Tools | Next: Finish
1. Gather your ingredients and tools. Line your soap mold with freezer paper, shiny side to face
the soap.
2. Place your stainless steel pot on your digital scale, and measure your solid oils into your pot.
(Coconut oil, palm oil, and shea butter are solid at room temperature.) Use the tare button on
your scale as you add each one.
3. After youve measured the solid oils, warm the pot over low heat for the solid oils to melt.
(This is my little kitchen. Soapmaking doesnt require a lot of space.)
4. Measure your lye (sodium hydroxide) carefully into a bowl. Its poison, people.
5. Measure your water.
6. Pour your water into a heat-resistant bowl. Then pour your lye into the bowl of water. Stir. It
will have a chemical reaction, giving off fumes and heat. After a minute or two the water will
turn clear. Use hot pads if you pick up the bowl. I wore glasses as a safety precaution. It would
have been a good idea to wear rubber gloves, too. I went outside to do this, assuming there
would be a lot of fumes. It wasnt too bad, maybe because I was working with a small batch.
Next time I will stay inside, and not risk spilling it by carrying it around.
7. Find a strong man to open the olive oil for you when the lid is stuck. Measure your liquid oils
(in this case olive oil) into a separate bowl. Once the solid oils are melted, add the liquid oils to
the pot. Turn the stove burner off, its probably hot enough. You want the oils to reach about 110
degrees (F).
8. To help the lye solution cool down, put it in a sink of cold water. Check the temperature of the
lye solution. You want it to be around 110 degrees (F), but it doesnt have to be exact.
9. Once the lye solution is cooled, pour it slowly into the pot. Blend with the stick blender until it
looks smooth.
10. Blend with the stick blender. Every now and then leave the blender off and just stir with it.
Alternate blending and stirring. Be careful not to raise the blender up so that it would stir in air
bubbles. Next time I will use a pot that is deeper and not as wide, so I wont have to be so careful
about that.
11. This batch was blended and stirred for about 5 minutes. It starts to resemble pancake batter.
12. It will start to look dull on the surface and thinly coat the blender. This is called trace.
Fragrances and colors would be added at this point, but since this is a beginner process, well
skip those for now. Pour the soap into the mold before it gets too thick.
13. I used a mold that was a little deep. You could also use a mold that is more wide and shallow.
14. I put the mold inside a cardboard shoe box, put the lid on it, and then covered it with a towel
to keep it warm. Ill find out later that I probably didnt need the towel. The cardboard box
covering it should be enough.
15. Rinse off the lye from your bowls and utensils, and then wash everything in soapy water.
Total time for this process start to finish: 1 hour.

Previously: Tools | Next: Finish
Soapmaking Finish
Previously: Process
When we last saw the soap, it was poured into the mold, and then covered up.
16. After 30 minutes, I checked on it. What is that big crack in the middle? I think it was too
warm. But no problem, I just press the edges back down with my fingers, and fix it right up.
The soap is dark and shiny in the middle, and light and opaque on the edges. The dark, shiny part
indicates it is going through the gel stage.
17. After 10 more minutes, the gel stage has spread to the edges. Keep the soap inside the
cardboard box so it will remain insulated.
18. An hour after it was poured, the soap is starting to harden.
19. I keep the soap in the cardboard box overnight.
20. The next morning, the soap is hard and opaque. Its ready to cut, but I dont have time, so Ill
do it the next day.
21. When its ready to be cut, lift the soap out of the mold, and peel off the freezer paper. Use a
knife to score the soap where you plan to cut it.
22. The knife smoothly cuts the soap into bars. Some people will then use a potato peeler to
bevel the edges, but I dont mind the natural cut edges of the soap.
23. Line the bars of soap in rows in the cardboard box so they can dry and age. The box keeps
the soap away from drafts, but it shouldnt be air tight.
24. The soap feels nice and smooth, but it needs to age for at least 4 weeks before it can be used.
25. Four weeks later: I was very excited to try my soap. It turned out great! It has a nice, silky
texture. It lathers well, and rinses well. It makes my skin feel soft and clean, but not dry. Perfect!

Previously: Process
4 Steps to Making Homemade Soap

I've been blogging for many years and for a couple of those years I went through a soap phase,
writing about soap making. This is one of those posts. I still make my own soap but I don't write
about it much these days.
Some of the information may be a little dated, no doubt new books have been written and new
discoveries made about different oils, etc.
This post shares the resources I used to learn to make soap, over 5 years ago, and tips for you to
learn soap making also.
I got an e-mail from my aunt earlier this week. She recently visited my parents and became the
recipient of some of my soap (my mom keeps a stash) and now wants to make some for herself.
A quick note about my aunt, she's actually only 5 years older than me and we were roommates
during her last and my first year of university. This little side story has nothing to do with
making soap.
She asked a few questions about getting started and I am happy to oblige and thought I'd share
those tips here for the benefit of everyone interested in soap making.
Step 1: Learn the process

Basically cold process soap making (I don't know why it's called cold process) is a chemical
reaction between a lye and water solution with fats/oils. From there it can be as simple or as
complicated as you like. There are a lot of great web resources on soap making, here's a few I'm
familiar with:
A Beginner's Guide to Soapmaking from Small Notebook for a Simple Home.

Miller's Homemade Soap Page Information compiled by Kathy Miller, perhaps the on-line bible
of soapmaking.
There are many books on the subject. The one I used to get started is Clean, Naturally. It's kind
of old but I like how simple the recipes are. You could check out these books also:
The Soapmaker's Companion: A Comprehensive Guide with Recipes, Techniques & Know-How
Soap Maker's Workshop: The Art and Craft of Natural Homemade Soap
The Natural Soap Book: Making Herbal and Vegetable-Based Soaps
Step 2: Choose your recipe

After reading books and perusing websites you'll be either overwhelmed or inspired, maybe a bit
of both. I highly recommend you start with a simple recipe that doesn't involve a lot of capital
investment. If, after you make your first batch you're hooked, you can think about getting fancy.
Oils
The simplest recipe of all is pure castille soap. I have never tried that for 2 reasons:
1. Olive oil is a relatively expensive oil to use exclusively for soap.
2. I like to blend oils to achieve different properties.
If you want to give it a go check out this recipe for Pure Olive Oil Soap from Little House in the
Suburbs.
Here's what I know about the properties of different oils - for the life of me I can't remember
where I found this or I would give proper credit.
Properties of oils (for soapmaking)
Hard, stable, long lasting - palm, lard, tallow

Lathering - coconut, castor, palm kernel
Moisturizing/Conditioning - olive oil, canola, sunflower, soybean
Luxury/extra moisturizing - cocoa butter, shea butter, almond, hemp, jojoba
But I did start off by saying to keep it simple. So I recommend you watch my How to Make
Simple Soap Video.
Alternately, you could try this basic recipe found in Clean, Naturally.
24 oz. Coconut oil

24 oz. Olive oil
38 oz. Vegetable shortening
12 oz. lye
32 oz. water
4 oz. essential oils of your choice, added at trace
This recipe will produce 32 bars approximately 3.5 oz.
This is a good recipe to start with because the ingredients are easily obtainable and relatively
inexpensive.
Having said that, I don't follow it anymore because I don't like how the plants used for making
shortening (soybean and cottonseed usually) are grown - heavily sprayed and such. But searching
for ecologically sustainable alternatives isn't easy either. Nor does this recipe produce a really
hard bar but I still recommend it for a first time around.
For more recipes you can check the few I've posted in Homemade Soap and Body Care Products.
Lye
If you decide to craft your own recipes you'll need to use a lye calculator to determine how much
lye and water you'll need.
For example, if you want to make a batch of soap with 20 oz olive oil, 20 oz emu oil (oh yeah,
that does exist) and 20 oz coconut oil you simply enter those values into the chart and it tells you
how much lye and water you need. The science behind this part is rather tricky so just use the online tools available, they do all them math for you - something I've never even attempted.
A note about lye: I am repeatedly asked if you need lye to make cold process homemade
soap. Yes, you do.
This is not melt and pour soap this is actual soap making. This is chemistry, mixing a strong
alkali with oils (which contain fatty acids), to saponify the oils. Soap is saponified oils. It is
the saponified oils that provide the cleaning action.
Don't be scared of using lye. Homemade soap makers have done it for years.
Essential oils & additives
Adding essential oils and good-for-skin natural additives is the really fun part of soap
making.
Here you need to read other recipes and use your own creativity to come up with combinations
you like. If you want to keep it simple to start, use a basic (& relatively inexpensive) lavender or
peppermint essential oil.
And when I talk about essential oils I am not talking about fragrances which are chemically
derived, I have no experience using them.
I love adding texture and color to my soaps but I've had some less than desirable results in some
batches, ie: colors that don't turn out like I'd hoped. For beginners I'd start simple, maybe some
cornmeal or oatmeal for an exfoliant. Or calendula flowers for color and skin healing properties.
Step 3: Find your supplies
This could possibly be step 2 because you don't want to pick a recipe with really exotic
ingredients that are difficult to find.
Oils
If you choose a fairly basic recipe, like the one listed above, most of those oils can found in a
grocery store. Here's a list of places to look:
Grocery store - olive oil, shortening, canola oil, lard, soybean and others can be found easily.
Health food store/Natural food stores - these might have a soap making section as does our
little local store. This is where I often buy my coconut oil, palm oil and other luxury oils.
However, you don't need to use food grade coconut oil, it will be more expensive than soap
making grade oil.
Local farm - if you decide to use animal fats you might be able to get these cheap from an
animal producer.
On-line/Mail order - If you can't find what you need locally or decide to start making soap in
bulk you can order on-line. See the suppliers lists on Homemade Soap and Body Care.
Lye
I have to admit, finding this can be tricky. Many companies now offer lye via online mail
ordering. Find a list of suppliers here or on my post Soap Making Supplies and Where to Buy
Them.
Essential oils & additives
You can find these at most any health food store but they can be quite costly. I'm now looking
into buying my essential oils in bulk from online companies.
Other plant based additives (for color, texture and skin healing properties) can be found in your
garden, kitchen cupboard and the spice or bulk section at the grocery/health food store. I love
this natural colorant's list at Muller Lane Farms.
Molds & Tools
You can use almost any container for a soap mold.

Shoeboxes or other cardboard boxes lined with plastic work really well. For years this is what I
used.
I now have a wooden mold (that I line with re-used heavy plastic bags) that Damien made me for
me. A mold should be fairly shallow and wide instead of deep and tall, lesson learned the hard
way.
Almost all the other tools you need can be found in your kitchen. It's an absolute must to
have a scale (maybe you could borrow one if you don't own one) and also a thermometer.
Certain tools can be used for both cooking food and making soap - glass & stainless steel bowls
and utensils. But all wooden and plastics should be set aside for just soap making.
Step 4: Making the Soap

It could take you some time to get to the actual making the soap stage.
I find that making the soap is the easiest step of all, it's figuring out my recipe and gathering
supplies that takes the most time and effort.
Plan to set aside at least 2-3 hours of uninterrupted time for your first batch. Be especially
cautious if you have little ones in the house. Soap making is dangerous and you don't want to
cause injury in the process.
I should add I've never had an accident but I wear rubber gloves and keep vinegar handy (to
neutralize a lye spill) should anything happen. When I first started 2 years ago I did it after the
kids were in bed. Now I make it while I'm cleaning up from supper and I just tell everyone to
stay out of the kitchen.
Making the soap is a 2 stage process:
1. Melting, mixing and pouring.
2. Cutting and curing.
Soap sits in the mold at least 24 hours and then is removed and cut into bars. These bars then
cure (the chemical process of turning oil into soap - called saponification is happening during
this time) for about one month. At the end of that time they are ready to use.
Questions & Feedback

I hope it helps you get started in your soap making journey. Please ask questions you might have
in the comments. (Updated later: I also have a Soap Q & A post with lots of questions and
answers in the comments section.)
Also, if you know of any good books, resources or on-line companies please tell us.
Handmade
Readers Ask
Resources:
How to Make Soap
Hot Process Soap Making

Step-by-Step Instructions for Hot Process Soap Making.
Hot-Process Soap Tutorial:
As Presented by: Candles By Shannon.
Before we begin, you want to make sure you have

everything you need at hand. Once things get going you will not have time to go looking for
stuff? ok here is my list of tools:
Wooden Spoon
Glass pyrex measuring cup
Digital scale
Mold (mini-loaf pan from wal-mart)
Rubber gloves (wal-mart)
Face mask (wa-lmart)
Crockpot (has low & high setting)
Hand blender (this will be your best friend
Plastic or ceramic bowl
NOTICE: there is nothing aluminum here. Aluminum and LYE do not mix!! Please do not try to
use one of your candle molds for soap!! They will come out ugly and tarnished. Dont even ask
me how how I know!
Step 2:
Now you turn your crockpot to high. Weigh all

your hard oils & soft oils and throw them in your crock pot.
Hard oils oils like, shortening, lard, Shea butter, Cocoa butter
Soft oils oils like, almond oil, sunflower oil, castor oil
Then we wait until everything melts, it helps to put the top on the pot and walk away for about
10 minutes.
Step 3:
After all the oils are melted, put on your rubber or

latex gloves and face mask (if you dont you might get some lye on you and it will burn, or your
may cough and gag, your choice). Use the plastic or ceramic bowl to weigh your lye. Next use
your glass pyrex cup to weigh your cold water (I use the glass because it can withstand high
temperatures).
Next pour your lye SLOWLY into your water while stirring. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT,
PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE, do not pour your water into your lye. Ever seen a volcano? Well
you will if you do this. The water will get hot, the temp will get near 200 degrees so please use
cold water. You will want to stir long enough for the water to be almost clear again, it will be
kinda cloudy, but all the lye needs to be dissolved.
Step 4:
Now you dont have to wait on a certain temp,

just pour your lye/water mixture into your crock pot with the oils. Take out your stick blender
and leter rip. (now you can take off the gloves and mask)* You will just stir with your blender
for about 5 -10 minute s, or until your reach trace.
Trace is when your oils and lye are mixed and it starts to thicken up.
This is a thick trace. You will be able to make

patterns like this. You will notice that my mixture is rather white. Remember when we let all the
oils melt? Well I added a soap colorant called Titanium Dioxide. Its a white pigment but thats
a different topic. At this point you put the top on and leave it alone.
*Note: Removal of gloves and/or mask is optional. You should continue to proceed with caution,
as spattering can still occur and can result in serious injury. Always use caution when working
with lye.
Step 5:
Now we get our colors and fragrances ready. I use the ceramic bowl for this. I use crayons or
candle color for my soaps. I havent broken out yet, so they seem fine to me. I shave some in the
bowl and measure about 3/4 to 1 oz of FO per 16oz of oils I used. In this batch I used 3lbs of
oils, so I will use 2.5 oz of FO.
editorial note: readers may wish to consider dyes and pigments specifically intended for soap
making.
Step 6:
It has been about 5-10 minutes, back to our pot its very thick now, I couldnt stir if I wanted
to. So we put the top back on and we wait.
Step 7:
10 more minutes pass and now were cookin! Now the oils are startin to separate and its breaking
up again. You just stir this down and put the top back on. Dont leave!
Dont leave your soap alone for too long. If you wait too long to stir, this is what you will get.
So, just keep stirring, if you leave it now, it may boil out of the pot. After stirring for a few
minutes you should get something that looks like applesauce.
Keep stirring and it i will change to the consistency of mashed potatoes at this point turn off the
crock pot. If you can, take it out of the base.
Keep stirring and in less than 1 minute you will have thick mashed potatoes.
Step 8:
At this point add your FO to the pot and mix well, then take out a few blops and put it in the
ceramic dish with the color.
Mix it up good.
Then add your blobs back to the big pot.
Dont stir it up good, just stir it up a little. (I stirred too much here.)
Then plop in into your mold. A little hint, if you plan on using bakery stuff from WalMart,
please use Pam in the bottom or some sort of bakers release, your soap wont come out if you
dont. Dont ask me how I know that either.
Recent Articles
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candles.
Learn how to make Autumn leaves soaps.
Learn how to make Autumn leaves soaps.
Learn how to make paw prints soaps.
Learn how to make birthday cake candles.
Learn how to make palm wax container candles.
Learn how to make palm wax pillar candles.
Learn how to make mottled pillar candles.
Learn how to make wax melts, tarts, or cubes.
How to Make Palm Wax Container Candles

Posted on July 16, 2014 by chelsea No Comments
Palm Wax is natural wax which produces a beautiful crystallized effect on your finished candle.
In this tutorial we will show you step by step instructions on how to achieve the perfect crystals
for a container palm wax candle.
You will need:

-Container Palm Wax (Glass Glow or Sparkle Light)
-Glass containers (We used 11.5 oz Straight Sided Tumblers)
-Pre-tabbed Wicks (RRD is recommended for Palm Wax. We used the RRD-40)
-Fragrance Oil
-Concentrated Liquid Candle Dye
-Hot Glue or Wick Stickers
-Heat Gun (optional)
-Paper towels, bubble wrap, cloth, or other form of insulation
Step 1. Choose which Container Palm Wax you wish to use and measure out the amount of wax
you will need for your container. Try our handy calculator if you need help determining the
appropriate amount of wax. Melt the wax using a double boiler method.
Step 2. While your wax is melting wick your container using the proper wick for the diameter
you have chosen. For container Palm Wax we recommend to use the RRD Pre-Tabbed Wicks.
RRD wicks are designed for more viscous waxes such as Palm Wax. Therefore needing to wick
up is usually not necessary. Since our diameter is 3 inches for the 11.5 oz Straight Sided
Tumblers we will use a RRD 40. (Testing is always encouraged in order to find a wick that
works best for your particular recipe). Secure the wick to the bottom of the container using hot
glue or wick stickers.
Step 3. Once your container is wicked, you can use a heat gun to preheat your container. This
helps the crystals form more effectively. If you dont have a heat gun, you can place the jars on a
cookie sheet in the oven for a few minutes on the lowest setting. Once your container is warm to
the touch, wrap some paper towels (or chosen medium) around your container and hold using
tape. This helps keep container insulated. The slower the wax cools, the better the crystal
patterns will come out.
Step 4. Once your wax has melted and reached a temperature of 180-210 degrees F, add your
fragrance and dye and mix thoroughly. Recommended fragrance usage for container palm waxes
is about 3% by weight. (Approximately oz per pound). Once you are ready to pour, ensure that
your temperature is around 200 degrees F. If not, put your wax back in the double boiler until it
reaches 200 degrees. It is important to pour at this temperature to help the crystal patterns form.
Step 5. Allow the candle to cool completely, but do not attempt to speed up the cooling process
by removing the insulation or placing it in the refrigerator, as this will inhibit the crystal
formations. Once your candle has completely cooled you can remove the insulation, trim your
wick to about and enjoy!
Note: Palm wax is much more viscous than other waxes, and has different burn properties. Palm
wax will often leave some wax hang-up on the sides of the jars, even with the proper wick size.
Although this is not considered ideal with other types of waxes, with palm wax, it provides a
beautiful glow as the candle burns down and the light from the flame shimmers through the
crystal patterns. Be patient and attentive with your wick testing to find the burn that you like
best!
DIY: Make Your Own All-Natural Moisturizing Face Cream

by Catherine Winter-Hebert, 08/25/13
filed under: DIY
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Image via Shutterstock

It seems like every other day, a new report gets shunted about online that lists all the horrible,
harmful effects that ingredients in daily personal care products can wreak on our health.
Parabens and phthalates are showing up in breast milk and body tissues; synthetic preservatives
are polluting waterways Just about everywhere we turn, the bad news bears peer around
corners, admonishing us for the toxins we slather ourselves in. There is a way to absolutely
ensure that the products we use are gentle on both our bodies and our environment, and that is to
make our own.
Ads by Google
How to Get A Clear Skin

See how this C&C facewash can clear your pimples & make it healthy!
www.cleanandclear. in/clearskin
Image Diamond Geyser

Many naysayers will decry making products at home for a variety of reasons, from the possibility
of homemade products going bad quickly to the negative stigma associated with being a barkeating hippie slathering oneself with mashed avocado (which actually works amazingly well,
fyi).
This recipe is a variation on the WildCraft Face Cream recipe from Mountain Rose Herbs. Its a
personal favorite, and very rich. As its such a thick, oil-based cream, its likely most effective
for those of you who have dry skin that likes to suck up moisturizer as soon as its applied.
What Youll Need:
Measuring cups
Measuring spoons
Whisk(s)
Various stirring implements
Glass or stainless steel bowls
Glass or stainless steel saucepans
A double-boiler
A blender or food processor
The ingredients listed below
A variety of clean lidded jars (sterilize these in a boiling water bath and then let them air-dry)
A spatula
Image Deb
Ingredients:
1/4 cup organic olive oil

1/4 cup organic sweet almond oil
1/4cup organic grapeseed oil
1/16 cup organic coconut oil
1/16 cup beeswax pastilles (for a vegan version, use carnauba wax)
1 cup organic hydrosol of your choice (I use rose hydrosol, and it smells gorgeous)
1/2 cup organic aloe vera gel
1/4 tsp vitamin E oil (a punctured capsule should be perfect)
8-15 drops of essential oil (lavender, rose, orange, neroli, or sandalwood all work well)
Image Moomin Molly
Prep:
STEP 1: Blend the oils together in a stainless steel or glass saucepan, and warm on very low
heat; the oils should be warmed through, but not be allowed to really heat up.
STEP 2: In another saucepan or double boiler, also on low heat, heat the wax pastilles until
theyve melted completely.
STEP 3: Take your hydrosol and the aloe vera gel, and combine them gently in a bowl. I
generally use a small whisk to blend these, but take care not to whip them up: just swish them
together slowly.
STEP 4: If you have a double boiler, warm it on low heat to prepare it for the last step. If you
dont have one, you can place a pyrex measuring jug or a clean, thick glass jar in a heat-proof
saucepan thats filled with enough water to surround the glass to the halfway mark.
STEP 5: As this will make a fairly sizeable batch of cream, be sure to have several clean glass
jars and lids ready to go. I find that I can fill 5 baby food jars (the ones that are around 4 oz/128
ml) 3/4 of the way full, but you can also use smaller lidded cosmetic tins (1 oz or 2 oz sizes) as
well.
Image Moomin Molly
Making the Cream:

STEP 1: Take half of the warmed oil mixture and pour it into the double-boiler youve preheated. Add about 1/4 oz of the melted wax, and stir gently. This mixture should be wholly
liquid, so if you find that the wax is starting to harden or congeal, the water in the lower part of
the double-boiler isnt warm enough: raise the heat a little bit and stir softly until everythings
liquid again.
STEP 2: In either an upright blender or food processor, combine about 6 oz (3/4 cup) of the
hydrosol/aloe blend with the vitamin E oil and the essential oil* of your choice.
*Note that you dont have to add essential oils if youd prefer a fragrance-free cream, but if you
do decide to add them, either just use one scent (such as rose, lavender, etc.) or a combination of
two that complement one another well (like jasmine/neroli, or rose/sandalwood).
STEP 3: If youre using an upright blender, remove the lid, turn the blender on low, and pour the
warmed oil/wax mixture slowly into the very center of the spinning mixture below, taking very
special care that you pour it in a steady, slow, thin stream. This is to ensure that the ingredients
emulsify smoothly and dont clump up. If youre using a food processor, divide the warmed oil
mixture in half and get a friend to stand across from you and pour slowly and steadily at the
same time that you do: this will allow the mixture to be divided equally.
The cream will look a bit weird until it starts to thicken, but the sound the blender blades make
will change to a lower pitch as the ingredients get thicker and creamier. Turn off the machine and
use your spatula to scrape around the inside of the blender/food processor bowl and around the
blades. This will scoop up any errant bits and moosh it all together well. Once youve done this,
pulse the machine a couple of times to mix it well one last time.
STEP 4: Use your spatula and spoons to decant the cream into your jars. Use the spatula for getting every last bit out of nooks and crannies, but
use the spoons to actually transfer the cream into the containers, as youll have greater control. Label these jars clearly with the date you created
them and the scent that you used. If you keep the jars refrigerated, theyll last for up to a year. Should you happen to notice that the contents smell
a bit off, or if you see any mould on the cream, discard it immediately.
Image Chiots Run

Youll repeat this entire process for the second batch of your cream. Making your moisturizer in
two batches like this is actually ideal, as you can create two different scents, if youre so
inclined. Feel free to experiment with different oil combinations, essential oil scents, etc. to see
which work best for you. For example, the original recipe called for sesame oil instead of sweet
almond, but that made me break out like crazy so I switched it out.
If you find that this cream is too rich and oily to use on your face, you can use it as a hand cream
insteadfor a hand salve, youll have far more options with regard to the EO scents that you
choose, as the skin on your hands is much less sensitive than facial skin, and is less likely to
break out or react negatively to oils like lemon, rose geranium, calendula, and such.
An avid permaculture gardener, locavore, and novice (but enthusiastic!) canner, Lana WinterHbert joins Inhabitat after spending the last decade working as a writer and event guru for nonprofit/eco organizations. In addition to her work with this site, she writes features and blog posts
for Vegan Cuts, Green Pigeon, and several event planning websites based in London, UK.
Currently, Lana divides her time between writing, and doing collaborative projects with WinterHbert: the design studio she runs with her husband. Best described as endearingly eccentric,
she spends any spare moments wrestling with knitting projects, and devouring novels by obscure
Czech writers. A Toronto native, she has recently chosen to leave that splendid city in favor of a
tranquil lakeside nook in rural Quebec, where she and her Sir co-habitate with two hand-raised
sparrows that live in their writing-desk.
14
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Related Posts
DIY: All-Natural Creams and Salves for Cold-Battered Hands

I know that most people arent quite ready to say the w word just yet, but that season of sleet
and snow will be upon
DIY: 5 All-Natural Facial and Body Mists to Battle Breakouts and Ultra Dry Skin
Winter isnt merely the season when people slog through sleet and suffer from cracked skin and
windburn: its also the time when many folks head
DIY: How To Make Your Own Lip Balms

There are a plethora of lip balm recipes available online to choose fromdo a quick search on
Pinterest for lip balm recipe and youll see what
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14 Comments
1.
kaybergin December 19, 2014 at 8:57 am
I would like to make my own face creams and body lotions. I am very allergic to various
products. How do I know if I am allergic to natural products.
2.
Meritxell Paneque November 13, 2014 at 7:41 am
I\\\ll try everything but maybe Stacy Gamble is right. It is necessary to use emulsifier to
combine the water and oil ingredients
What do you think?
Thanks
3.
Sarah Boxer October 20, 2014 at 7:02 pm
I\\\m 43 years old and was looking for a good organic facial cream for a long time. I
tried the one you mentioned, but Im sticking with the Somaluxe Moisturizer I put on
my face every night and mornings my skin looks radiant. You don\\\t need to put a large
amount on, just a small dime size will do. It moisturize my skin perfectly, and I really
like the smell of it.
4.
milie Blisle-Daly July 26, 2014 at 11:08 am
Hello Lana, I just made this cream with a few adjustments (no olive oil, replaced
grapeseed oil passion fruit oil, etc.). It turned out beautiful and I am happy to have such a
great, easy recipe for face cream. Next I will replace the rose water with distilled water as
I find the scent a *little* strong, but overall so happy about this cream. The fact that it can
be modified to adapt to each persons preferences is fantastic, too!
5.
Vickibe April 29, 2014 at 8:51 pm
If you are allergic to coconut what can you use in its place? I really want to make a great
olive oil based face cream or lotion.
6.
LookGoodSmellGood April 5, 2014 at 6:24 am
The requirements, the ingredients & the process is very thorough & meaningful.I will
definitely try this
Thx Lana for sharing
7.
jcbooth March 22, 2014 at 4:14 pm
Automatically I find myself trying to convert the receipt from cup measurements to
weight measurements. Do you know of any converter tool that will help with this
quickly?
Thanks!
Jan
8.
Lana Winter-Hbert March 15, 2014 at 9:24 am
That has happened to me as well. Making cream tends to take a few tries to get the
process right: Ive actually found that I prefer to use an electric mixer on its highest
setting rather than a blender, and when I pour the liquid into the oil, I pour very, very
slowly, in a stream thats no more than a couple of mm wide (barely a trickle), right into
the blades themselves.
If you try another batch and have the same issue, please let me know!
9.
Jess Wishon March 14, 2014 at 6:11 pm
My batch did not emulsify very well at all. I had a very thick cream and then about a
quarter cup of excess liquid. Not sure what I did wrong.
10.
Lana Winter-Hbert February 24, 2014 at 12:47 pm
When it comes to preservation and such, sure: preservatives and emulsifiers are needed to
keep a cream like this shelf-stable and safe at room temperature for long periods of time.
That said, much like food that hasnt been filled with preservatives, it will remain safe
and stable for a shorter period of time if kept refrigerated. Some people choose to use a
beeswax + borax emulsifier in their creams, but I havent found it necessary for the small
amounts that Ive created, especially since theyre usually used up before theyd even
dream of separating.
This recipe was created by Rosemary Gladstar, one of North Americas foremost
herbalists, and has been created by countless people around the world for many years,
without any issues. Keeping things safe really just requires a bit of diligence with regard
to hygiene, and common sense: make small batches with sterile equipment, keep the
cream refrigerated, make sure hands are clean before scooping and applying, and discard
if it separates or goes off in any way.
Ive been using this recipe for years with no negative results whatsoever.
11.
Stacy Gamble February 23, 2014 at 9:56 am
With all do respect, youre promoting a dangerous and overall bad formulation: You have
water based botonic ingredients with no preservative, no heating and holding to kill
bacteria and lack of an emulsifier to combine and stabilize the mixture of oil and water
ingredients.
Starting with the most important, any water based botonical such as aloe and hydrosols
MUST be properly preservred (and no, essential oils are not preservatives, theyre
antioxidants).Otherwise, a host of bacteria and mold will overtake your creation before
you can even see it. Preservatives were created for your protecion, theyre not an evil
company additive thats been developed to harm you. Lack of a broad spectrum
preservative can make you very, very ill.
Heating and holding: again, with water based ingredients the formula but be heated to an
adequate temperature and held to ensure unseen mold and bacteria is killed. No matter
how sterile your environment, there are always unseen creepies that you do not want
mixed into your formula.
Lastly, unless you use an emulsifier to combine the water and oil ingredients youre
going to have a lumpy, separated mess. The mechanical mixing may emulsify it for a
short time but it will soon separate.
For your readers safety, please dont knock preservatives then promote a dangerous
formula that absolutly requires them .
12.
killu60 January 30, 2014 at 4:24 am
How many ml is 1 cup?
13.
Bella1953 December 31, 2013 at 12:20 am
Where can I find 2 oz. and 4 oz. Glass jars? I am looking for brown or blue glass.
14.
Lisa Drudge November 13, 2013 at 10:03 pm
I made this today and the first part of my batch turned out perfect! The second very
runnynot sure what I did. Is there anything I can do to try to firm it up a little bit? I
appreciate any help you can give me.
Featured Author
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Read more: DIY: Making Your Own All-Natural Moisturizing Face Cream | Inhabitat - Sustainable Design
Innovation, Eco Architecture, Green Building

filed under: Design for Health, DIY
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I'm a lip balm fiend, as are my sister and my mother-in-law. In fact, most of the people I know (male and
female) have a strong fondness for lip balmsparticularly in the winter months when we get all
chapped and sore from talking too much while traipsing about in snowstorms. Instead of spending a
ridiculous amount of cash on these lip-lubing accoutrements, why not concoct your own? They're supereasy to make, and you can customize them to suit everyone's tastes.
Ads by Google
shop.adidas.co.in
Image IMakeGuernsey
Pinterest for lip balm recipe and youll see what I meanso you have oodles to sort through.
From personal experience, Ive found that guys tend to prefer minty, soothing balms while girls
like sweeter, more fragrant ones, but thats a generalization you know your loved ones best,
so go with the scents/flavors you think would make them happiest. The basics of lip balm
creation are really simple: you need a fat (vegetable-based butter or oil), and a wax (beeswax, or
carnauba wax if you want to keep it vegan). Flavoring agents and essential oils are optional, but
with the two ingredients listed above, youre in lip balm heaven.
What youll need:
Oils/butters and wax (as your recipe dictates)

A small pot and a large pot for melting/mixing (or a double-boiler)
A whisk or spoon to stir it all (the whisk is better)
Glass droppers
Pots or tubes to contain your amazing lip balm of awesomeness
I generally prefer the little metal screw-top or slider tins for my balms, but if youre a tube lover
you can find tubes (and tins) at a number of online retailers like The Sage and Etsy, and of
course, Mountain Rose Herbs. Mountain Rose Herbs is also where I happened to find my
favorite lip balm recipe:
Image Kurichan
Lemon Coconut Lip Balm
1 Tablespoon Coconut Oil

2 Tablespoons Sunflower Oil
1 Tablespoon & 1 teaspoon Beeswax or Carnauba Wax
10 drops Lemon essential oil*
Chop or grate your wax quite finely, and scoop it into your smaller pot (or pyrex measuring cup)
along with your butters and oils. Heat about 2 of water in the larger pot/double boiler, and once
its warm, place the wax-filled pot inside it, ensuring that the water doesnt spill into the smaller
pot at all.
Keep the water on medium-high heat until the wax and oil mixture has melted, whisking or
stirring it gently to dissolve it evenly. Once its all melted, remove it from the heat, set it aside,
and add your essential oils. (Note: The scent of them will dissipate a little bit, so feel free to add
a few more drops than listed in the recipe if you feel its necessary. If you find that the mixture is
starting to firm up, put it back over the heat to melt into liquid again.)
Use your dropper to transfer the liquid balm into your empty containers, and let them cool
overnight (or about 10 hours) before closing them. Add cute labels as desired, and moisten up
everyones lips to your hearts content!
Lead image by The Crafty Goat
Read more: DIY Holiday Gift: How To Make Your Own Lip Balms | Inhabitat - Sustainable Design
DIY: Make Your Own All-Natural Moisturizing Face Cream

filed under: DIY
Share on Tumblr
Email
Image via Shutterstock
It seems like every other day, a new report gets shunted about online that lists all the horrible,
harmful effects that ingredients in daily personal care products can wreak on our health.
Parabens and phthalates are showing up in breast milk and body tissues; synthetic preservatives
are polluting waterways Just about everywhere we turn, the bad news bears peer around
corners, admonishing us for the toxins we slather ourselves in. There is a way to absolutely
ensure that the products we use are gentle on both our bodies and our environment, and that is to
make our own.
Image Diamond Geyser

Many naysayers will decry making products at home for a variety of reasons, from the possibility
of homemade products going bad quickly to the negative stigma associated with being a barkeating hippie slathering oneself with mashed avocado (which actually works amazingly well,
fyi).
This recipe is a variation on the WildCraft Face Cream recipe from Mountain Rose Herbs. Its a
personal favorite, and very rich. As its such a thick, oil-based cream, its likely most effective
for those of you who have dry skin that likes to suck up moisturizer as soon as its applied.
What Youll Need:
Measuring cups
Measuring spoons
Whisk(s)
Various stirring implements
Glass or stainless steel bowls
Glass or stainless steel saucepans
A double-boiler
A blender or food processor
The ingredients listed below
A variety of clean lidded jars (sterilize these in a boiling water bath and then let them air-dry)
A spatula
Image Deb
Ingredients:
1/4 cup organic olive oil

1/4 cup organic sweet almond oil
1/4cup organic grapeseed oil
1/16 cup organic coconut oil
1/16 cup beeswax pastilles (for a vegan version, use carnauba wax)
1 cup organic hydrosol of your choice (I use rose hydrosol, and it smells gorgeous)
1/2 cup organic aloe vera gel
1/4 tsp vitamin E oil (a punctured capsule should be perfect)
8-15 drops of essential oil (lavender, rose, orange, neroli, or sandalwood all work well)
Image Moomin Molly
Prep:
STEP 1: Blend the oils together in a stainless steel or glass saucepan, and warm on very low
heat; the oils should be warmed through, but not be allowed to really heat up.
STEP 2: In another saucepan or double boiler, also on low heat, heat the wax pastilles until
theyve melted completely.
STEP 3: Take your hydrosol and the aloe vera gel, and combine them gently in a bowl. I
generally use a small whisk to blend these, but take care not to whip them up: just swish them
together slowly.
STEP 4: If you have a double boiler, warm it on low heat to prepare it for the last step. If you
dont have one, you can place a pyrex measuring jug or a clean, thick glass jar in a heat-proof
saucepan thats filled with enough water to surround the glass to the halfway mark.
STEP 5: As this will make a fairly sizeable batch of cream, be sure to have several clean glass
jars and lids ready to go. I find that I can fill 5 baby food jars (the ones that are around 4 oz/128
ml) 3/4 of the way full, but you can also use smaller lidded cosmetic tins (1 oz or 2 oz sizes) as
well.
Image Moomin Molly
Making the Cream:

STEP 1: Take half of the warmed oil mixture and pour it into the double-boiler youve preheated. Add about 1/4 oz of the melted wax, and stir gently. This mixture should be wholly
liquid, so if you find that the wax is starting to harden or congeal, the water in the lower part of
the double-boiler isnt warm enough: raise the heat a little bit and stir softly until everythings
liquid again.
STEP 2: In either an upright blender or food processor, combine about 6 oz (3/4 cup) of the
hydrosol/aloe blend with the vitamin E oil and the essential oil* of your choice.
*Note that you dont have to add essential oils if youd prefer a fragrance-free cream, but if you
do decide to add them, either just use one scent (such as rose, lavender, etc.) or a combination of
two that complement one another well (like jasmine/neroli, or rose/sandalwood).
STEP 3: If youre using an upright blender, remove the lid, turn the blender on low, and pour the
warmed oil/wax mixture slowly into the very center of the spinning mixture below, taking very
special care that you pour it in a steady, slow, thin stream. This is to ensure that the ingredients
emulsify smoothly and dont clump up. If youre using a food processor, divide the warmed oil
mixture in half and get a friend to stand across from you and pour slowly and steadily at the
same time that you do: this will allow the mixture to be divided equally.
The cream will look a bit weird until it starts to thicken, but the sound the blender blades make
will change to a lower pitch as the ingredients get thicker and creamier. Turn off the machine and
use your spatula to scrape around the inside of the blender/food processor bowl and around the
blades. This will scoop up any errant bits and moosh it all together well. Once youve done this,
pulse the machine a couple of times to mix it well one last time.
STEP 4: Use your spatula and spoons to decant the cream into your jars. Use the spatula for getting every last bit out of nooks and crannies,
but use the spoons to actually transfer the cream into the containers, as youll have greater control. Label these jars clearly with the date you
created them and the scent that you used. If you keep the jars refrigerated, theyll last for up to a year. Should you happen to notice that the
contents smell a bit off, or if you see any mould on the cream, discard it immediately.
Image Chiots Run

Youll repeat this entire process for the second batch of your cream. Making your moisturizer in
two batches like this is actually ideal, as you can create two different scents, if youre so
inclined. Feel free to experiment with different oil combinations, essential oil scents, etc. to see
which work best for you. For example, the original recipe called for sesame oil instead of sweet
almond, but that made me break out like crazy so I switched it out.
If you find that this cream is too rich and oily to use on your face, you can use it as a hand cream
insteadfor a hand salve, youll have far more options with regard to the EO scents that you
choose, as the skin on your hands is much less sensitive than facial skin, and is less likely to
break out or react negatively to oils like lemon, rose geranium, calendula, and such.
An avid permaculture gardener, locavore, and novice (but enthusiastic!) canner, Lana WinterHbert joins Inhabitat after spending the last decade working as a writer and event guru for nonprofit/eco organizations. In addition to her work with this site, she writes features and blog posts
for Vegan Cuts, Green Pigeon, and several event planning websites based in London, UK.
Currently, Lana divides her time between writing, and doing collaborative projects with WinterHbert: the design studio she runs with her husband. Best described as endearingly eccentric,
she spends any spare moments wrestling with knitting projects, and devouring novels by obscure
Czech writers. A Toronto native, she has recently chosen to leave that splendid city in favor of a
tranquil lakeside nook in rural Quebec, where she and her Sir co-habitate with two hand-raised
sparrows that live in their writing-desk.
14
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Nourish yourself from head to toe with aloe and coconut

Summer is here and the sun is hot! Well for us in Singapore the sun is always hot, which is why
we need to protect our skin that much more. This recipe is for an all-over, head-to-toe Aloe &
Coconut moisturizer that leaves your skin feeling gorgeous. I really cannot stop touching my
arms right now (I was covered after photographing this DIY!) Youll want to apply this all over
your body and you should. Its going to heal you from the damage of the harsh sun, hydrate your
skin (and hair!) and protect it for another day out.
Youll need:
An aloe vera leaf

2-3 Tablespoons of virgin raw coconut oil
(add more or less oil depending on whether you want a more light or intense moisturizer)
Read about the benefits of coconut oil here.
Aloe vera is a skin superfood! When you want to feel good, you eat healthy food. Well, if you
want to look good, feed your skin healthy food! Im in my 30s now and though my skin is
changing, Im not prepared to spend hundreds of dollars on anti-aging creams when natural
ingredients can provide so much. Our skin is put under constant stress from pollution, from the
sun and all the chemicals that we are exposed to. Aloe helps to heal and protect at a cellular
level. It pulls moisture into the skin and has an anti-inflammatory property which is great for
acne and eczema. Its properties are well documented and thats why you find it in so many
products but keeping it green means that we go straight to the natural source itself!
For the second ingredient, I chose to use coconut oil, because I love the instant results that I feel
as my skin soaks up this nourishing oil. Its brilliant for the hair as it can actually penetrate the
hair shaft, truly conditioning it. Its antibacterial, antifungul and helps with itchy or dry scalp
conditions. Its great for nails, skin its perfect.
There is a trick to getting the gel from the aloe vera
Between the inner gel and the rind, is a layer of a yellow sap called aloin that has an obnoxious
smell and can be irritating. I wash it off, and though some gel gets washed away too, theres so
much more in the leaf that to me its better to remove the sap. Can you see it in the cut leaf
below? Aloin is actually used separately as a laxative, so if you wan to eat your aloe, but do not
want the laxative effects, make sure to remove it!
After a quick rinse, you can then squeeze and scrape off the gel its messy fun and what youll
have is a lovely thick gel. For me its sometimes easier to just plop the whole thing into blender
and whizz it up with the coconut oil. The plant is made of 96% water, so it comes out like a
juice, which you can then pour into a spray-bottle and spray onto your body, or onto your hair as
a moisturizing treatment. Either way, gel or juice, you are getting all of the benefits!
I hope that you enjoy this summer and spent time outdoors, barefoot on the grass and under the
sun. Take care of your body, nourish your skin and radiate health and beauty!
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8 Comments
Amie
July 13, 2012 at 1:01 pm
Thanks for the tips :)

Looks quite easy to prepare too..
militza
July 13, 2012 at 1:29 pm
Hi Amie! My pleasure! When you use such great ingredients, it really is just that
simple! :)
Dean N
July 13, 2012 at 1:02 pm
Hi, thank you for sharing the recipe. I have 2 questions to clarify :)
If I do not have a blender, how can I make juice out of the gel?
How long can this last (expiry)?
Looking forward to your reply ;)
militza
July 13, 2012 at 1:39 pm
Hi Dean! If you dont have a blender, you can scrape the gel or try putting it in a colander
and allow the gel to fall into a bowl, lightly pressing it with spoon. If you have a
cheesecloth, you can squeeze it out.
The gel really leaks out of the leaf!
As for how long it lasts.out of the fridge, it will last up to 3 days. Make a batch and
keep the bulk of it in the fridge. There is will last up to a month! So what you can do
then, is fill up a small bottle and keep it out. Every couple days just refill it as you use it
up.
The coconut oil will seperate and solidify in the fridge, but it melts very quickly after you
take it out!
hope that helps!
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Dean N
July 18, 2012 at 3:06 pm
Thank you!! :)
Maggie
July 8, 2013 at 10:35 am
Where can I buy/get an aloe leaf?
militza
July 9, 2013 at 12:45 pm
Hi Maggie! Are you in Singapore? I usually find aloe leafs sold in Fairprice
Finest and Giant. Or, you can order online from our local farm:
http://www.greencircle.com.sg/
Do check out plant nurseries too aloe is so easy to grow and basically
impossible to kill :)
Comments are closed.
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Aloe Vera and Almond Oil Simple Moisturizer recipe

by Natural and Healthy Living February 28, 2014
New here? Make sure you like naturalandhealthyliving.com on facebook where we post our
best information to revitalize and improve your health naturally, and get updated each
time we find something amazing!
All Natural Aloe Vera and Almond Oil Moisturizer

Weve written about the benefits of Aloe Vera before, check out our previous post on the
Amazing Health Benefits Of Aloe Vera. Aloe Vera can also rejuvenate fibroblast cells in the
skin, which helps keep skin looking young, and also protects against UV radiation which
damages the skin. Our Aloe Vera and almond oil moisturizer will not only keep the skin soft and
supple, but will help to tighten up the skin and remove wrinkles.
Aloe Vera isnt the only amazing ingredient however, almond oil also has lots of great
properties: it is rich in vitamin E and D, soothes irritated skin, relieves dry and chapped skin and
helps delay the ageing process.
These two ingredients together form a wonderfully simple moisturizer recipe that is a must for
everybody!
Ingredients:
4 tablespoons Aloe Vera gel (We use this brand, as mentioned in Shocking Truth About Aloe
Vera Products )
2 tablespoons of Coconut oil (Where to buy)

1 teaspoon liquid Vitamin E Oil (However, if you use the Genuine aloe vera that we recommend,
they add small amounts of pure vitamin E to the aloe, so you can save buying extra)
2 tablespoons Almond oil
You want to make sure that you buy high quality natural ingredients, such as the ones that are
recommended, as manufacturers can be sneaky! Read our post on the Shocking Truth About
Aloe Vera Products for more information.
Method:
Simply take a clean cup or bowl and add the Aloe and oil in, then mix it well.
Melt the coconut oil (slowly) and add it to the mixture.
Thats it! As simple as that, you have a moisturizer that you can use regularly for normal skin.
Some people like to combine the mixture with essential oils, however, we prefer to keep them
out of daily moisturizers as they can often leave you smelling too strongly whilst out and about.
http://www.quirkycooking.com.au/
Organic Face Lotion Recipe

For oily skin but also suitable to all type of skin in the summer. Kukui nut oil is definitely one of
my favorite oil; I often use it pure and undiluted in the morning on my face; it does not leave a
greasy film and absorbs very quickly. For hundreds of years, Hawaiians have used kukui nut oil
for its moisturizing and healing properties. Lavender; geranium and grapefruit essential oil are
known to balance the skin and are perfect for oily skinneedless to say the scent is heavenly!
Water Phase: 2.5

teaspoon total (25%)
2.5 teaspoons of organic rose flower water (you can substitute withlemongrass or Lavender
hydrosols)
Oil phase:7 teaspoon total (70%)

7 teaspoons of organic kukui nut oil
Natural Emulsifier: (5 %)
0.5 teaspoon of natural beeswax pellets unbleached
EO:
10 drops of organic Lavender essential oil
10 drops of organic Geranium essential oil
2 drops of organic grapefruit essential oil
Natural preservative (optional)
1 drop of organic grapeseed extract
Directions:
Combine the oils & beeswax in your double boiler on low heat.
At the same time, add the rose water in another double boiler on low heat so that it gets to the
same temperatures as the oils.
Once the oils are melted, take it off the heat and start whipping with an electric or manual mixer;
add the rose water drop by drop while mixing. Continue mixing until you reach the creamy
consistency desired. Add the essential oils and mix well.
A little goes a long way so dont use too much!
Word of wisdom: do not increase the dosage of grape seed essential oil as it is phototoxic. It is
advised not to use if you are going under the sun.
Yied: about 2OZ. Use within two months.
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This organic face shea chantilly recipe is as easy as it can get; you can whip it up in 5 minutes.
No water/oil phase, no double boiler needed, this is a cold process, all you need to to is WHIP IT
BABY!
This is the perfect face moisturizer for cold and dry weather as it contains no water and act as a
protective barrier. Shea butter is well known to have anti inflammatory, emollient and humectant
properties.
Argan oil has been used for centuries by Moroccan woman to reduce wrinkles and hydrates the
skin they call it liquid gold. Argan oil is full of rich in antioxidants, essential fatty acids,
carotenoids, ferulic acid, sterols, polyphenols, vitamin E and squalene. Camelia seed oil is non
greasy and has a light texture.
Whipped Shea Butter recipe Ingredients:
2 tbs organic Camellia seed oil

2 tbs organic Argan oil
4 tbs Shea Butter refined
organic EO (optional): 5 drops of frankincense, 5 drops of rose geranium and 5 drops of Palmarossa essential oils
Put all ingredients in a glass or metal bowl and start whipping with an electric whipper. Begin
whipping your mixture on low speed until it become foamy and frothy. Once the mixture is
foamy, increase the speed to high until they become whipped to the desired stage. Add essential
oils if desired at the end and whip for 1 min or less. Your butter will have a very fluffy and light
consistency, like a nice chantilly!
Since this butter has no water, it can keep from 6 month to a year depending on the shelve life of
the ingredients used.
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Natural Face Scrub Recipes

Easy AND Cheap Organic Japanese Face Wash and Scrub
Who would not trust Japanese women for their traditional ways of taking care of their beautiful
and flawless skin? One of their ancient secret is azuki bean which gently exfoliates and
removes dull skin. This is a great ingredient to create natural face scrub recipes. Azuki beans also
contain saponin which is a natural cleaning and foaming agent. No need to say more
It happened that I had some organic azuki beans (red beans) left over in my pantry and I was
looking for a new face scrub.Nutrition-wise, adzuki beans are a good source of magnesium,
phosphorus, potassium, iron, zinc, copper, manganese, and very rich in folic acid so dont
hesitate to include it in your daily diet!
natural face scrub recipes

Ingredients azuki beans face scrub
1 cup of dry organic azuki beans
Coffee grinder or your favorite fast speed blender like Ninja or Vitamix (make sure you use a
blender powerful enough to grind hard beans)
sieve (optional)
Directions Natural Face Scrub Recipes
Grind the azuki beans in your fast speed blender until they are completely grinded like coarse
flour.
Sift the azuki flour to remove the biggest part of the beans if necessary. Pour in a glass air tight
container. Take one tablespoon of the flour and add enough water to make a thick paste. Apply
on your face and massage for a few minutes. I like to leave the scrub on for 5 to 10 minutes
while I shower so the benefits of the azuki beans to soak in the skin. Rinse well. Moisturize with
a dab of camellia seed oil like the Japanese women used to do!
Arigat!
Yield: several applications do not mix with water until you are ready to use.
Organic Face Lotion Recipe

For oily skin but also suitable to all type of skin in the summer. Kukui nut oil is definitely one of
my favorite oil; I often use it pure and undiluted in the morning on my face; it does not leave a
greasy film and absorbs very quickly. For hundreds of years, Hawaiians have used kukui nut oil
for its moisturizing and healing properties. Lavender; geranium and grapefruit essential oil are
known to balance the skin and are perfect for oily skinneedless to say the scent is heavenly!
Water Phase: 2.5

teaspoon total (25%)
2.5 teaspoons of organic rose flower water (you can substitute withlemongrass or Lavender
hydrosols)
Oil phase:7 teaspoon total (70%)

7 teaspoons of organic kukui nut oil
Natural Emulsifier: (5 %)
0.5 teaspoon of natural beeswax pellets unbleached
EO:
10 drops of organic Lavender essential oil
10 drops of organic Geranium essential oil
2 drops of organic grapefruit essential oil
Natural preservative (optional)
1 drop of organic grapeseed extract
Directions:
Combine the oils & beeswax in your double boiler on low heat.
At the same time, add the rose water in another double boiler on low heat so that it gets to the
same temperatures as the oils.
Once the oils are melted, take it off the heat and start whipping with an electric or manual mixer;
add the rose water drop by drop while mixing. Continue mixing until you reach the creamy
consistency desired. Add the essential oils and mix well.
A little goes a long way so dont use too much!
Word of wisdom: do not increase the dosage of grape seed essential oil as it is phototoxic. It is
advised not to use if you are going under the sun.
Yied: about 2OZ. Use within two months.
Focus on Aloe Vera

I use aloe vera in most of my beauty care recipes as this plant is very versatile.
Aloe vera is a species of succulent plant that grows in arid climates and is widely distributed in
Africa, India and other arid areas. Aloe vera is useful in the treatment of wound and burn
healing, minor skin infections
The best aloe vera gel you can find is from the fresh leaves but if do not live in a dry climate,
you can buy aloe vera gel or juice at any heath food stores.
Always buy organic aloe vera juice with 100% juice or gel with no preservatives. Unfortunately
most manufacturers add conservators and preservatives as aloe spoils easily so be sure to read
the labels. You must keep it refrigerated once the bottle is open.
Aloe vera recipes How to prepare aloe vera gel from fresh leaves:
Choose aloe vera leaves that are large and mature, but still soft and succulent with plenty of
moisture and gel inside. Avoid the small leaves. Cut the leave from the base of the plant and let
the yellow sap (called aloin) runs out of the leaves for a few minutes on a towel. When the
yellow sap is all gone Take a sharp knife and use it to remove the spiky edges from the leaves.
The leaves will have spiky edges to protect the plants from animals that also like the sweet gel
inside the leaves.
Once the thorns have been removed, use the paring knife to peel one side of the leaf, so that you
will have access to the gel. Use a tea spoon to transfer the gel to a sterilized can. Add a few drops
of grapefruit extract to help with the conservation. Always keep the fresh aloe Vera gel inside the
fridge.
Focus on Organic Argan Oil

On my last trip to Morocco I was introduced to Argan Oil, also called the golden oil for its
fabulous rich yellow color. Moroccan women still swear by it as a beauty oil which hydrate and
heal their hair and skins. Argan Oil has many benefits and is naturally rich in vitamin E,
carotenes (giving you that nice and natural tanned glow!), squalene and fatty acids. They
recommend me to use it every day as a massage on the face before going to bed and in the
morning for at least a month to show maximum results against wrinkles.
I like to create my own blend with other unique and rare oils like kukui oil to make it lighter but
it also works just by itself. You dont need a lotLess is better.
Seek organic Argan oil cold pressed from Morocco (to be honest even it is not certified organic;
it is most likely that no pesticides have been used since Morocco is still preserved from all that
crap). Be extremely wary of fake and diluted Argan oil, always read the labels! Make sure you
choose 100% Argan oil or nothing at all, otherwise you will end up with a fake argan oil.
Fun fact: In ancient time the Berbers of Morocco gathered Argan pits directly from the pooh of
goats which climbed the argan trees to eat their fruits. The pits left undigested on the floor were
cleaned and then pressed to make the nutty oil used in cooking and cosmetics.
You can also use organic argan oil (roasted for maximum flavor) in cooking, delicious nutty
flavor in salad vinaigrette!
Organic Rice Face Scrub

Create this gentle and easy to make Rice Face Scrub with two simple ingredients. You can use
this every other day but I would advise not to scrub your face too often so you do not disrupt the
fragile balance of your face skin.
Organic Rice Face Scrub Recipe Ingredients:

2 teaspoon of organic rice powder (rice flour)
2 teaspoon of organic rose flower water (or lemongrass flower water or mineral water)
1 drop of frankincense essential oil
Directions:
Mix all the ingredients together until you obtain a thick paste. Add a little more mineral or flower
water to get the consistency desired.
Apply this homemade rice face scrub on your face and gently do small circular movement with
your fingers. This face scrubs works wonders for me and does not creates pimples. Rinse off
with luke warm water. Clean with flower water on a cotton pad and moisturize with your daily
face cream. You can also apply a mask after the scrub.
Word of wisdom: Be careful not too increase the amount of peppermint essential oil as it can be
sensitizing.
The best organic and natural toners recipes

I never use commercial toners, never felt it was needed. In my opinion toners are just an
invention from cosmetic giants to make us consume more. That said, I will share with you two
easy to make, DIY Natural Toners Recipes below, Aloe vera gentle and soothing cleanser &
Rose and Neroli cleansing water.
Your skin pH is a result of the skins acid mantle, a mixture of sebum (skin oils) and sweat that
form on the surface of your skin. This acid mantle keeps the pH of your skin at about 4 to 4.5
(Remember, low pH like 1 to 5 is acidic, high pH 8 or above is basic, and the middle, around 7,
is neutral.) This slightly acidic pH is a good thing on your skin because it helps ward off harmful
bacteria.
When you wash your skin, you strip away this acid mantle. I never use any soap, neither wash
nor toner on my face and do not recommend you to use any.
Of course when you are use to wash your face with soap, the switch from washing your face to
just rinsing with warm water will be troublesome for most (it was for me when I made the switch
5 years ago) but you will be glad you did.
Washing your face with an alcohol base toner or soap remove the sebum that is suppose to
protect your skin and you end up with oily skin as your skin is trying to create more sebum to
create that natural barrier. In the end you end up with an imbalanced and too oily skin which can
create pimples and black heads.
To help you make the switch you can you natural alternative such as aloe vera juice, rose, neroli
and lavender flower water. They are very gently cleansing and hydrating without removing too
much of the natural sebum. You can use them every day but also try to just rinse your face with
warm (not hot) water. You can also use the floral water to remove make up.
Aloe vera gentle and soothing cleanser

Aloe Vera is anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and helps heal wounds of all kinds.
Suitable for all skin type.
Ingredients
1 cup of Aloe vera juice
1 capsule of vitamin e
5 drops of lavender essential oil or Chamomile essential oils (optional)
Direction:
Combine all ingredients in a dark colored glass. Keep in the fridge.
This can also be use on the body as an after sun soother.
Rose and Neroli cleansing water

Suitable for sensitive skin. Orange Blossom (Neroli) Oil is used in skin care preparations to
stimulate cell regeneration. It has antibiotic, antiseptic, calming and tonic properties. Rose
water is balancing. Use it only at night at neroli can be photosensitive.
1/2 cup of rose water

1/2 cup of neroli water (orange Blossom)
5 drops of rose essential oil
Combine all ingredients in a dark colored glass bottle. This liquid does not require refrigeration.
Apply with a cotton pad and let dry nat
Precious anti-wrinkle oil blend recipe for skin

In this oil blend recipe for skin and more precisely for your face, I have used one of my favorite
oil: Kukui Nut Oil is a fabulous moisturizer, and quickly penetrates the skin leaving a silkysmooth non-greasy feeling. It contains Vitamins A, C, and E, providing anti-oxidants that help to
protect the skin. Rosehip oil contains retinol, Vitamin A, vitamin C, essential fatty acids, omega6, omega-3 and is the perfect anti-aging oil. The essential oil blend and choice of carrier oil is
recommended for mature skin and will reduce wrinkles as well as scars.
Oil blend recipe for skin:

Oil phase: 10 teaspoon total (100%)
6 teaspoons organic or wild craft kukui oil

2 teaspoons organic rosehip oil
2 teaspoons organic evening primrose oil
Essential oils
10 drops organic frankincense essential oil
4 drops organic carrots essential oil
10 drops organic lavender essential oil
10 drops organic rose essential oil
10 drops Vitamin e
Directions:
Combine carrier oils and essential oils in a 50 ml (about 2 OZ) dark colored glass bottle. Shake
well before use and apply daily in the evening for at least a month to see results. See how easy it
is to create your own anti-wrinkle oil blend recipe for your face?! you can customize it too
depending on your skin type!
Yield about 1.50 OZ

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What are the main steps involved in cold process soap making?

What are the main steps involved in cold process soap making?

What should be considered when preparing the lye solution?

What should be considered when preparing the lye solution?

The Process

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Instantly receive one of my own soap recipe formulas.

Tools Needed for Making Cold-Process Soap

This is Part 2 of 4 in A Beginners Guide to Soapmaking.

5. Measure your water.

This is Part 3 of 4 in A Beginners Guide to Soapmaking.

18. An hour after it was poured, the soap is starting to harden.

19. I keep the soap in the cardboard box overnight.

This is Part 4 of 4 in A Beginners Guide to Soapmaking.

4 Steps to Making Homemade Soap

Step 1: Learn the process

A Beginner's Guide to Soapmaking from Small Notebook for a Simple Home.

Step 2: Choose your recipe

Hard, stable, long lasting - palm, lard, tallow

24 oz. Coconut oil

This recipe will produce 32 bars approximately 3.5 oz.

Step 3: Find your supplies

You can use almost any container for a soap mold.

Step 4: Making the Soap

2. Cutting and curing.

Questions & Feedback

How to Make Soap

Hot Process Soap Making

Before we begin, you want to make sure you have

Now you turn your crockpot to high. Weigh all

After all the oils are melted, put on your rubber or

Now you dont have to wait on a certain temp,

This is a thick trace. You will be able to make

Then add your blobs back to the big pot.

Learn how to make hot cocoa candles.

Learn how to make layered chocolate mint

Learn how to make Autumn leaves soaps.

Learn how to make Autumn leaves soaps.

Learn how to make paw prints soaps.

Learn how to make birthday cake candles.

Learn how to make palm wax container candles.

Learn how to make palm wax pillar candles.

Learn how to make mottled pillar candles.

Learn how to make wax melts, tarts, or cubes.

How to Make Palm Wax Container Candles

You will need:

DIY: Make Your Own All-Natural Moisturizing Face Cream

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How to Get A Clear Skin

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What Youll Need:

1/4 cup organic olive oil

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Making the Cream:

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DIY: All-Natural Creams and Salves for Cold-Battered Hands

DIY: How To Make Your Own Lip Balms

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