ArtTrader Issue9
ArtTrader Issue9
ArtTrader Issue9
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Fair Use
The term fair use originated as part of US Copyright law. It grants individuals the ability to use
very limited amounts of copyrighted material for certain purposes, such as teaching, research,
scholarship, criticism or satire, and reporting. US Copyright Law recognizes four provisions that
must be in place for fair use:
1. The purpose and character of the use, including whether such use is of a commercial nature
or is for nonproft educational purposes;
2. The nature of the copyrighted work;
3. The amount and substantiality of the portion used in relation to the copyrighted work as a
whole; and
4. The effect of the use upon the potential market for or value of the copyrighted work. (From
the Copyright Act of 1976)
Notice that these guidelines hardly tell an artist what she can and cant do with a copyrighted
work. An article by Tim Wu in Slate Magazine gives a more useful defnition: fair use aids
secondary creativity, or creativity that builds on an original. In both cases, the key here is that
an artist is building on, altering, and substantially changing the original work.
What this means for artists who create original work: Be aware that copyright does not
guarantee that 100% of your work is free from others use. Fair use does allow for some use of
copyrighted images, although the language and lines are very unclear. Legal action is generally
required to enforce copyright law.
What this means for artists who want to use others work in their own: Ive seen a number
of suggestions to artists concerning fair use and images. The best suggestion I can give is to
not use copyrighted images because if the original owner of the copyright disagrees with your
fair use of their image, you may be in for a legal battle. However, many other options exist for
using images in your work, including images in the Public Domain and images under a Creative
Commons license (described below).
What About Fan Art?
Fan art inhabits the murky waters of fair use and is considered a derivative work or even a
parody. Some companies and artists encourage fan art (such as Neil Gaiman or J.K. Rowling)
while others send out cease and desist letters and engage in lawsuits (such as Disney). When
you create fan art, little is certain. However, the fact that so much fan art exists and is produced
indicates that most copyright holders of such work do not see it as a threat provided that you are
not attempting to proft from it in any way.
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Conclusion
Fair use, copyrights, and the Public Domain are
generally quite complicated, legal issues. This
article has only scratched the surface of what
these issues mean for artists. This article is not
considered legal advice, and we suggest that you
seek legal advice out if necessary.
To summarize:
You can safely use images or works
produced before 1923
You can safely use images that are in the
public domain (which may include images
after 1923 that are specifcally marked
Public Domain)
You can safely use images that have a
Creative Commons license on them (check
the individual license for stipulations)
You should not use images that are
copyrighted (with some very limited
exceptions under fair use)
Under no circumstances should you sell
work that contains copyrighted images
Resources for more information:
Rights for Artists:
http://www.rightsforartists.com/copyright.html
Copyrights and Fair Use
Misconceptions
Here are some common misconceptions
on Fair Use and Copyright:
By acknowledging the source, I
am within the bounds of fair use.
Wrong! If you copy an image from
another artist and use it unaltered
in your collage, even if you give
credit to the artist, that is not fair use.
If the work doesnt have a copyright
on it, I can use it. Incorrect! In the US
and in many countries internationally,
creating the work itself automatically
gives a person access to a copyright.
Unless you are certain it is listed in
the public domain, has a creative
commons license, or you have explicit
permission, it is likely not fair use.
Non-commercial use is fair use. Nope!
Just because you are making art to
trade does not immediately mean that
your use of the work falls under fair use.
Everything on the Internet or found in
an image search is in the public domain.
Everything on the Internet is not public
domainin fact, most of it is copyrighted.
This means that a google image search
will likely bring up nothing but copyrighted
imagesso use some of the alternative
methods described in this article.
If an image doesnt have a watermark
or copyright symbol, it is not copyrighted.
This is incorrect. Most images, especially
those found through a Google image
search, are copyrighted.
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A T C
Illustrations
From the Pencil & Paint artists on
www.IllustratedATCs.com
AMY TURNER
CYNTHIA COUCH
ASHLEY GARCIA
ALEXANDRA HOSE
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OBLIRO
ANDREA MELIONE
SUVITUULI PAAJANEN
ELINA LUNDAHL
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As an artist I am always seeking out new ways of creating my art with the materials I have at
hand. What will happen if I use a beat-up brush this way? Or, what if I combine these two
materials that way?
Frankly, I am impatient when it comes to art. I think this may actually be the fault of ATCs, where
I am able to achieve instant gratifcation due to the small scale; it takes less time to paint an
ATC than it does to paint an 18 x 24 canvas. In addition to this, I am also a cheapskate when it
comes to art supplies. I am always armed with coupons whenever I walk into an art store, and I
balk at paying $12.00 for a small jar of acrylic paint. So, the new technique I demonstrate in this
article was developed from a combination of extreme impatience and a lack of funds.
My quandary was this: how could I create a piece of art that was rich with color, yet wasnt
something I spent hours blending and laboring over with oils, or acrylics and a bottle of extender
medium (to lengthen drying time)? The answer to this arose from a happy accident, when I
spilled watercolor on a 4x4 chunky book page that I had already painted with craft-grade acrylic
paint. The watercolor stuck to the matte acrylic paint and created some great effects. I began to
experiment and refne the process, and I am pleased to share the results with you here.
Before you begin experimenting at home, I would like to make a few suggestions on the types
of paint to use.
For the acrylics, I recommend using either Folk Art acrylic paint by Plaid or Ceramcoat acrylic
by Delta Creative. These two paints have a higher pigment-to-binder ratio than other craft-
grade acrylic paint companies. In addition, you cannot use Liqitex or Golden (or other artist-
grade acrylics) because they dry with a semi-gloss fnish and will resist the watercolor applied
over the top.
For watercolors, I recommend anything with high pigment content; therefore, Crayola and
other low-end art products are not a good choice. You can use either opaque or transparent
watercolor for this technique.
Illustration Technique:
Acrylic and Watercolor
By Andrea Melione
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Additionally, since this technique is heavy on water media, I recommend
using mat board (used for framing artwork) or illustration board. Both
will support the media. Canvas is not a good choice as it is not smooth
enough.
Image 1)
First I begin by painting a layer of yellow acrylic over an inked drawing.
If the paint is too opaque, I thin it down with a little water. Not much,
though, because I want to faintly see my inked drawing underneath.
In this example, my paint smudged the ink, but that is okay.
Image 2)
Now I have taken some light turquoise acrylic paint and applied it
around my two drawn fgures. I could have used any two colors, but
I chose analogous colors because I didnt want the background color
to stand out too much. I also took the light turquoise and splattered
it around for some interesting texture
and color interaction.
Image 3)
At this point I re-inked my drawing. I
could have also used this opportunity to make corrections or fx
anything I didnt like about my original drawing.
Image 4)
At this stage I took watercolor to color in the fgures. I started
with a wash of light brown and daubed in a few experimental
colors. The great thing about this technique is that I can erase
my watercolor at any point. The watercolor sits on the acrylic
paint and can be lifted off with a clean brush or Q-tip. If I were
doing this on watercolor paper, the paint would become almost
permanently soaked into the fbers.
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Image 5)
I have now decided exactly what colors I want to use and layered
colors over one another. If I let each layer dry completely, I can
layer new watercolor over the top. I am careful, however, not to
make scrubbing motions or apply too much pressure with the brush.
Doing so will lift off the previous layers of color, even if they have
dried.
Image 6)
This is the fnal image. I have applied more ink to areas where many
paint layers have dulled the ink (as in this image I want visible black
ink outlines showing.) I also lifted any unwated watercolor paint and
added white detailing and highlights with a white gel pen.
Below are more examples created by myself using this technique!
Visit Andrea Melione on the Web:
Blog: http://artpfunkcentral.blogspot.com/
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/user/EraserqueenStudio
In addition to her writing and graphic design for ArtTrader
Magazine, Andrea also teaches online workshops (also at
ArtTrader) and is co-administrator of www.IllustratedATCs.com
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Chimerical Critter Creation
A Tutorial on Making Mutants
by Angela Kingston-Smith
What is a Chimera?
In Greek mythology, a Chimera is a twisted hybrid of lion, goat
and snake. But biologically speaking, Chimera is applied to any
organism consisting of two or more tissues of different genetical
compostion, produced as a result of genetic engineering or
surgery (grafting and transplants). It is also a monster made out of grotesquely disparage parts.
In other words, a mutant hybrid freak.
One of my favorite personal challenges was to ask the intended recepient what their two or three
favorite animals were and combine them into one, weird but not too adnormal, specimen. I have
also hosted a number of swaps in this theme, where six or seven people each nominate their
animals and then interpret each others hybrids as they see ft. It provides an interesting range of
results, and also provides something of an artistic challenge.
So youve gotten yourself into one of these groups and now youre stuckwhere do you begin?
Well, luckily Im here to help. Just remember the one and only Chimerical rulethere are no right
nor wrong ways to hybridise two completely unrelated species. This tutorial is designed as an
inspiration and guide, not the Chimerical Creation Rules.
For this tutorial, I shall show you how I conceptualise and design a bird/mammal hybrid, where
the bird is a Crowned Crane and the mammal is a Kinkajou.
Step One: Choosing your creatures
What animals you select to make up your chimera may be decided by you, or may be dictated by
someone else in your swap group if youve joined such a swap. There are some important factors
to consider before making your choice. Choosing two animals that are similar in appearance
are diffcult to hybridise (see the challenges section below) and do not produce nearly as
interesting results. I have found that it is the most fun to choose one animal with rather dramatic
appearance, the other fairly straightforward. Selecting from different animal classesfor example
bird/mammal, reptile/bird, fsh/mammal also leads to more interesting results. Some animals are
also rather more popular than others. In the four chimera swaps I have hosted, the most popular
species are: panda, peacock, tiger, cat, horse and lemur (although the latter is probably my fault).
Whether you choose to go with the popular or the weird and wonderful, is entirely up to you.
Of course, if youre participating in a hosted swap, you have little choice on what you will be
combining.
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Step Two: Conceptualising
Youve been given the names of two completely different animal species but you cant even
imagine what the freakish offspring might look like. Its time to start conceptualising and see
where the imagination takes you. Here are a few tips on directions you might like to go:
The Species:Species Ratio
How much of each species should you use?
Chimeras can range from a funny-coloured individual of one species, to a
complex, multi-headed monstrosity.
Unnatural Coloration
This is probably the simplest option. If one of your animals has particularly
distinctive coloration, whereas the other is monocolored, you might like to
take this option. Simply take one animal and color it as though it were the
other. Its almost too easy.
Pairing: Elephant/Gouldian Finch
Just Add Wings
Another simple optionif youve been given a bird and a mammal, its
simple - just add wings, and maybe funkify up the colouration a little. This
also works for insect/mammal, bird/reptile or if one of the options is bat. If
one species has a particularly distinctive featurea
long striped tail, a crest of feathers etc, this method
can be utilised as well.
Pairing: Pig/Any bird species
The Gryphon (aka cut n splice)
To put it simply, take the front half of one animal and combine it with the
back half of the other. Tradtionally this works best between bird/mammal
pairings but can be utilised for many other pairings as well. It also works
well for creating Mer-creatures.
Pairing: Bluejay/Red Panda
Traditional Chimera
The mythological two or three (in this case) headed creature. The
body can have legs from each of the different species too.
Pairing: Goat/lion/serpent
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True Blend Amalgamation
These are probably the trickiest to conceptualise. They involve taking features from the two
species and combining them into weird and wild random creations. The following tutorial is
designed to help you create something where the division isif not naturalat least not the cut
n splice method.
Pairings above: Panda/Peacock, Toucan/Lobster, Peacock/Turtle
Step Three: Determining Key Features
One of the frst things you should do whenever you are given an artistic challenge is to fnd
reference images. Hunt down several interesting photographs (NOT other artists interpretations)
of the selected species. It is best to fnd at least one headshot and one that shows the full body.
The bigger the better!
Examine the reference photographs and take note
of the features that stand out for that creature. You
need to make it distinctly obvious what animals
your mutant is based on.
Kinkajou:
round bear-like face, small neat ears, big eyes
prehensile tail
stocky streamlined golden body
feet that somewhat resemble hands
Image courtesy of Margaret E. Poggio
http://www.fickr.com/photos/26021073@N03/
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Crowned Crane:
tall and stately
striking facial mask with wattles
impressive crown/crest of feathers
large, powerful wings
Step Four: Basic Anatomy
What you have here is a bird/mammal hybrid. It would
be very easy to use the cut and splice method to create
a gryphon. This would make for an impressive set of
forequarters, but the hindquaters
would be fairly nondescript, aside
from the feet and the tail. A kinkajous
face is too cute to just ignore
besides, the hindlegs are a bit short.
Another option would be to use a combination of the unnatural colours and
just add wingstaking the basic shape of a kinkajou and adding on the
crown of the crane and the striking facial mask.
However, if you want to go for a True Blend the
frst step is choose which animal you want the
basic anatomy to most closely resemble. This
is important if you want the animal to look plausible, not ridiculous. If
you want something that looks rather over-the-top and silly, it is also
quite possible to combine all the distinct features into one:
But if you want something that looks
kinda like one animal, kinda like the other, you might like to use
this means instead.
1. Select the animal that you wish to base the body-type on.
Are you tending towards the stocky and streamlined or the tall
and stately?
2. Decide on a pose. Static standing there poses are all well
and good, but lack dynamics. What you really want is some
sort of action pose. If youre focussing on the bird aspects, you
might like to use references of the bird in fight. Or you could
highlight the monkey-like aspects of the Kinkajou and go for an
arboreal stance.
Image courtesy of Dane Lykins
http://macropus-rufus.deviantart.com
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3. Card orientation is also important. I often tend towards a portrait (vertical) alignment for my
cards, which speaks more towards the tall and stately whereas you might prefer to work in a
landscape (horizontal) format, in which case the mammal form would ft the structure better.
Now that youve determined which species is the dominant, body wise, sketch it up lightly. Were
about to mutate it!
Step Five: Crossing Species
Now comes the fun part. Take some of the noteable features
from the other animal and apply it to your sketch. Be careful not
to overdo it!
Here are some useful techniques:
Characteristic features: these should always
be included. For example: cranes crown and
the kinkajous tail.
Distinctive markings: these can lead to instant species recognitionsuch things as a tigers
stripes, a pandas patches, or a crowned cranes facial mask.
Mismatched limbs: if the specimen has four limbs, you can base the forelegs on one species,
and the hindlegs on the other. Note that wings are forelimbs. Whilst you can give your
chimera three sets of limbs, this does lead to a less natural pairing. Not that there is anything
wrong with that!
Eyes: some animalslike the crowned crane, have very pale eyes, whereas kinkajous have
much darker. Swapping eyes between species can be effective.
Pseudowings: if one creation has wings but you dont want to create a third pair of limbs, you
can create the illusion of wings by adding on a frilled cape, not unlike that found in a colubus
monkey. This is particularly useful for the crowned crane, which has a frill-like edge to its
primary feathers.
Once youve created a passable hybrid, its time to
ink your sketch and proceed to Step Six.
As you can see, these two pictures contain all
roughly the same elements, whilst also looking
rather disimilar. Note the crowned cranes lanky
legs mutate into a kinkajous fuzzy paws. And the
Kinkjaou now sports a fne feather-frill mane and
cape. Other options would have been switching
beak for muzzle and vice versa. But this lends a
rather more unnatural look.
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Step Six: Applying Color
It is very important when applying color to take both species into consideration but also to make
use of your own artistic knowledge. Some color combinations work better than others, some clash
or look distinctly unnatural. In the Kinkajou/Crowned Crane pairing I have chosen one animal that
is all a pure color (honey-gold) and another that has a multitude of colors. Thus we shall focus
on the colors of the Crowned Crane
for the most part. Much of his body
coloration is a sort of steely blue-grey,
offset by the stark black and white of
his wings. Fortunately, blue and gold
work most awesomely together.
For the Kinkajou-based piece I
have made the majority of the body
the honey-gold color. This is partly
because not a lot of his actual body is
visible (merely front paws, belly and
tail). Also as his face and frills are quite
dramatic, I do not want to distract from
them with too much color. His mane I
colored like the Crowned Cranes, but
I took some liberties with his cape. Having the frills change from blue to white gives a smoother
change from the blue of the ruff to the white of the last frills. If I had coloured them all in the light
blue/white it would have looked too stark.
For the Crowned Crane-based piece I have used a classic division technique. Many animals
have a different colored belly from upper quarters, and the majority have a paler belly. As the blue
and gold work nicely together, this looks quite natural and I have continued it onto the tail and
lower fanks where the gold dominates. Although the legs are rather bizarre (being half bird/half
mammal) because of the color distribution it looks almost natural - like hes wearing really fuffy
Ug boots.
As these pieces are rather bigger than the regular ATC, I have utilized the circle cut-out for
my background. This is a technique I like to employ for my larger pieces, allowing me to give a
detailed background that was not cluttered nor detracted from the main image. This moves us
onto the next step.
Step Seven: Adding a Background
The frst thing to take into consideration here is what is the animals natural habitat likely to
be? To answer this, you need to look at where the base animals live and take into consideration
whether your creature could still survive in that environment. In the case of my two critters, both
are still pretty well suited to their original habitats.
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The above is how others have interpreted this same theme:
From left to right: Angela Brereton, Sal Scheibe, Tabitha Ladin, Margaret Baxter, and Nadine Thome
Crowned Crane are found in the dry savannah
of Africa but choose to nest near water. With
his long legs and neck, our elegant chap is
still well suited to this habitat. Although his
large feet may make more of a splash when
he wades! His prehensile tail would serve little
purpose, except perhaps to help him balance
should he choose to roost. So swampy
grassland will suit him just fne.
Kinkajou are arboreal and found in the
South American rainforests. As my wee
fellow is an over-embellished kinkajou, lets
add some tree trunks and orchids into his
background.
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Challenges
The mammal/bird hybrid is a fairly straight forward one. But what about more tricksy combinations?
Here are some trouble-shooting tips:
Where the two animals are very similar
You may be given two animals that look
very much alikefor example: a ringtailed
lemur and a house cat. These creatures
share a similar body shape, the ringtailed
lemur is even known as Lemur catta. In this
situation you need to study your subjects
closely. Look for distinctive markings and
typical features of those animals. The tail of
the lemur, for example, or the variable coat
patterns, lengths and colours of the cat.
Pinpoint the trademark characteristics.
Compare the facial structure. Cats have
round muzzles and their ears are placed
high on their head, whereas lemurs have a narrower, more foxy, snout and their ears are much
lower down. The eyes are distinctly different. And dont forget the hands and feet!
Hybridising three animals
This is not much harder than hybridising two creatures,
except that is becomes much easier to lose one of the
animals. Choose the animal with the least distinctive
markings as the base animal. For example, in my
Sloth/Chameleon/Toucan combination the bodyshape is
based on the Sloth. Now select the two most distinctive
characteristics for each animal and work them into the
picture. Then move onto the lesser ones. The eyes,
hands, feet and tail are all good to alterjust make
sure that you leave in enough of the base animal for
it still to be recognisable.
Pairing: Toucan/Sloth/Chameleon
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Combining fora and fauna
This is actually quite a simple combination
probaby even easier than an animal/
animal hybridhowever likely harder
to conceptualise. Use the animal as the
base, and study the various parts of the
plant: the leaves, the fowers, the seeds.
Work out how to incorporate them into your
creature. Perhaps it could have leaves or
fowers sprouting randomly from its body?
For example, it could have a ruff around
its neck or a mane of foliage. Consider
covering the body in bark or adding a
small amount of armor.
Pairing: Coyote/Lichen
The creation just looks silly
Sometimes it is just impossible to make
the animal look realistic or natural. In
which case, remember the one and
only rule for making Chimerasthere
is no wrong or right way. Whatever you
conceive of is correct. And try to embrace
the inner silliness!
If, however, you just cant seem to get
it looking right, try changing the base
species or adjusting the pose. It took me several sketches to get this fellow looking vaguely
passable. Dont give up! And if you really just cant make it workfall back to the frst three
techniques discussed above.
Pairing: Tiger/Lionfsh/Monarch Butterfy
I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial. Now go forth and MUTATE!
Whimsical Mermaids
Workshop!
Two Week 35$ USD Program
videos and PDF books
include:
Designing Your Mermaids
Anatomy, textures, colors and
brainstorming!
Media Techniques
acrylics
colored pencils
watercolor and ink
Step by Step projects
including Mermaid ATCs
www.arttradermagazine.com
For more information and to sign up, go to:
Welcome to the underwater world of whimsical
mermaids; fat, funky, ethereal and bizarre!
Full-color workbooks are flled with
inspirational artwork and instructions for
creative design and brainstorming, and
step by-step images of projects. Videos
show techniques in slow motion and real
time to help you draw your designs and learn
various rendering techniques to create your
own personal mermaid art!
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Critique Corner
with Andrea Melione
For this issue of critique corner, Corrie Manning sent me a lovely mixed media still life. Frankly,
I was a little puzzled as to how I would approach this piece, because when I look at submitted
art, not only do I try to identify strong points, I also seek out ways to strengthen or improve the
piece. In this work however, I felt that most of the
elements of a strong artwork were present. So I
will use Corries piece to illustrate the defnitions
of concepts that are the hallmark of a successful
work.
The following pointers are also something you can
keep in mid if you are applying to a juried art show,
trading site or submitting work for commercial
gallery consideration. Many of those looking at
your work will be using the following objectives
below to analyze your artwork. If you are successful
in all but one or so of these areas, you will have a
higher likelihood of being accepted.
Drawing ability:
Drawing ability only applies to drawn work of
course, but it does apply in the case of Corries
work here. It is important to look at drawn work
objectively. A great deal of drawn art submitted
to art juries is in a kind of limbo stage; it is not
technically advanced enough for realism, nor
is it developed and consentient enough to be
considered stylized. Corrie has obviously studied apples and branches, which are well drawn
and painted with watercolor and colored pencils. The leaves are possibly the only minor weak
spot of the entire work. The shapes of the leaves look a little too regular, as though one shape
were made different in size, but basically repeated throughout. Creating leaves of varying shape
(perhaps folded, wrinkled or showing the underside) would help the foliage to look slightly more
varied.
Corrie Manning
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Composition: The composition in nicely asymmetrical. While the apple is, in fact, almost dead
center (a composition choice usually to be avoided), this is softened by the placement of branches
and leaves which are primarily on the upper right
side of the composition.
Color: Many beginning artists are tempted to keep
red apples red and green leaves green, but Corrie
takes colors beyond assumptions and interjects
splashes of blue on the green leaves, and subtle
orange and yellow on the apple. These colors are
good choices because blue is analogous to green
and yellow and orange are analogous to red. In
real life, surfaces will absorb and even blend the
colors refected around them. Keep this in mind
when you are coloring your work.
Contrast: Corrie has created wonderful contrast
between the deep color of the fruit and foliage with
the misty ethereal white of the background. Instead of leaving her background a plain fat color,
she has layered whites over text to create a sense of depth and texture. Careful attention to the
background of your work is important when trying to create contrast; make sure it compliments
your foreground elements. I cannot stress the importance of this enough: jurors will pay just as
much consideration to your background as to the main elements of your artwork, so pay equal
attention to both.
Rendering: The ability to use media (or render) effectively is important in your art. Understand
the paints, mediums, papers, pens and glues you use. This isnt to say dont experiment, but dont
submit experiments you may be unsure of to a panel of judges. Corrie has a clear understanding
of her media; she knows how to manipulate, blend and layer without creating muddy color (easy
to do when working with red, yellow and blue!)
Thanks for your submission, Corrie! This column exists because of our readers. Keep submitting
your artwork! You can email your images to [email protected]
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ATCs as Inspirations for Professional Art
by Kathryn B. Launey
The ATC community is one that often inspires unexpected,
yet welcome, opportunities for artistic exploration. The
themes of ATC swaps, open communication with other
artists, and frequent exposure to new techniques are among
the benefts of belonging to a large group of generously
supportive and friendly artists.
Last year I created this ATC of an underwater reef using mixed
media collage (right). The card was made in preparation for
an ATC swap I hosted with the theme of Water. Fellow
artists encouraged me to use that card as the inspiration for
larger pieces. First,
I created a series
of 5 x 7 collages,
including the work
pictured (left).
Positive reactions to
the resulting series of
5 x 7 artwork further
encouraged me to challenge myself to tackle an even
larger project.
By that time, I learned enlarging an image was not simply
a one-to-one ratio. Patterns in a piece of paper in an
ATC collage can create a powerful impact, but the same
pattern is lost in a larger work. Pen work that provided
cohesiveness to the original ATC needed to be greatly
increased in the larger piece. I started the new creation
with a basic shape for the reef made out of handmade
paper from Bangladesh. Then working with other specialty
papers, I drew the individual elements. I hoped that if a real reef could grow one cell at a time,
then so could an artistic representation. The photo (page 43, upper left) shows a close-up of
several collage elements that I drew and cut out to include in this artwork.
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The backgrounds water effect in this artwork was created using
watercolor pencils and acid-free markers. This combination of
techniques is one I was exposed to at the 2009 Art for All conference
hosted Indianapolis, Indiana
by the web site www.atcsforall.
com.
Next, I started arranging the
elements on the reef (pictured
right). At this stage, the collage
became a collaboration of
sorts. I believe that there is a
point at which art stops being a
one-way activity and becomes
a conversation between the art
and the artist. The composition starts singing or begs for more
color; elements either work together or are rejected by the
emerging, cohesive image.
Throughout the collage process, the
conversation continued until both the art
and the artist were satisfed with the result;
the fnished artwork is pictured (lower
left). The fnish coat on the collage is
created with a dimensional glue that was
recommended by another ATC artist.
The artistic process that began with my
connection to the ATC community resulted
in winning second place in the annual
show of the Fine Arts League of Cary, in
North Carolina.
After this experience, I encourage you to
reexamine your favorite ATC creations.
They may be calling you to new artistic
explorations.
Underwater World
20 x 16 Mixed-Media Collage
Rene Nault is a professional illustrator in Canada, and she has found a passion in the no-
pressure world of creating and collecting ATCs. Her watercolor technique is fresh, colorful and a
little fanciful. Rene takes time from her busy schedule to discuss her art and infuences.
Youre a professional Illustrator. Can you tell us a little about your background?
RN: I grew up in Vancouver and later Victoria in British Columbia, Canada. Then I attended
Sheridan college in Oakville, Ontario, for a 3 year illustration program. I do illustration for things
like newspapers, magazines, advertising, books, and CD covers.
What is your favorite media to use in your work and what drew you to it?
RN: I love watercolor because it can be so spontaneous and unpredictable, especially the way I
like to use it, which is very wet and blobby. You cant really control it, you can just kind of guide
it and then see what it does and work with that. Its fun!
The Art of
Rene Nault
Interview by Andrea Melione
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Have you any watercolor tips or techniques
youd like to share?
RN: Dont be afraid to let watercolors do their
own thing! The mistakes, like drips, blobs,
and halos are the best part.
Have you any advice for someone who has
never worked with watercolor before?
RN: The most common mistake for artists
who are brand new to watercolor is to get
nervous and smudge it around too much.
You can do that with oils or acrylics, but with
watercoloronce the paint is down you have
to just leave it and let it dry, or else you just
end up with a muddy mess.
That can be really frustrating at frst, but once you
embrace the no going back rule, it can be very
liberating!
Deer and trees show up in your work a lot; do
they have any symbolic meaning for you?
RN: The short answer is yes! Trees and antlers
both start small and concealed and then grow
upwards, branching out and reaching up. They
also mirror the shape of organic support structures
like roots and veins. Theres something very
resonant to me about that imagery.
What do you fnd inspiring in art, music, and
nature?
RN: Forests, underwater landscapes, dreams,
mythology, fairy tales, all kinds of music, flm,
fashion, history, travel, ephemera.
Some of Renes
Favorite books
I love books and have a pretty big
library, most of which I would have
a hard time parting with. A few art
books that Im referring back to a lot
lately are...
Beardsleys Illustrations For Le
Morte DArthur
The Hokusai Sketchbooks
Little Nemo, by Windsor McCay,
1905-1914
Le Petit Prince by Antoine De Saint-
Exupery
Ertes Fashion Designs, 218
illustrations for Harpers Bazaar,
1918-1932
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What other artists do you admire?
RN: Wow, it would take forever to list all the artists I admire!
Plus Im sure I would accidentally offend a few people by
leaving them out
Sticking to artists whove directly infuenced my worka
lot of great illustrators like Aubrey Beardsley, Kay Neilsen,
Alphonse Mucha, Erte, Edward DuLac, Arthur Rackham,
Windsor McCay. Also, Ukiyo-e artists like Hokusai and
Hiroshige.
How did you fnd out about Mailart and ATCs?
RN: Back in college I saw a little blurb about mail art in
some kind of flm we were watching. It looked fun, but I
certainly didnt have time for it then! I came back to it when
I saw people trading online and wanted to join in.
What themes do you enjoy collecting?
RN: The most important thing is that they refect the artists own personal artistic style.
I love references to kitsch, ephemera, and low art like comic books, pulp novels, B movies,
advertising. I also love all kinds of fairy tales and mythology, especially if approached in an
original or unexpected way. I love animals. I love fashion, current and past. I can always be
tempted by anything French, anything Japanese, anything 1920s related, or anything with a
satyr, faun, or horned/antlered person of any kind.
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As a professional artist, how have ATCs affected
your work?
RN: Theyre really fun and relaxing.
The style I work in involves a lot of waiting, because I use
very wet washes of color and they have to dry completely
before I can continue work on the piece. So while my
larger works are drying, Ill cut some scrap watercolor
paper down to ATC sizes and work on those for awhile.
Theyre great because theres no pressure. I also get to
try out new techniques, or different styles that dont quite
ft with my body of professional work.
Find Rene on the web:
website: www.reneenault.com
art blog: www.reneenault.com/blog
Etsy: www.reneenault.etsy.com
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Gallery of Found Poetry Art
From the arti sts of ATCsForAl l . com
Dar Mariano
Greer Gschwind
Ann DAngelo
Carolyn Streeter
Cheryl Duncan-Molloy
Dar Mariano
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Dar Mariano
Katie Vlasov
Robin Panzer
Greer Gschwind
Carolyn Streeter
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Incorporating Found Poetry into
Mixed Media and Collage Art
by Amy L. Sargent
Found poetry has been around for decadesmost sources
indicate that the genre was created in the late 1960s or
early 1970s. The Academy of American Poets offers the
following defnition:
Found poems take existing texts and refashion them,
reorder them, and present them as poems. The literary
equivalent of a collage, found poetry is often made from
newspaper articles, street signs, graffti, speeches,
letters, or even other poems. A pure found poem consists
exclusively of outside texts.
The technique is used by many writers as an exercise that
requires them to reexamine their vocabulary and expand
the language they regularly use in their work. It often can
reinvigorate our love of language and demonstrate the malleability of words meanings.
Similarly, artists may fnd that incorporating found poems into collage can expand an artworks
meaning or mystery. Found poetry can add a binding layer to a simple paper collage, or it can be
used as merely one component of a layered mixed media work.
The key to found poetry is to allow oneself to remain open to the possibilities of a random page of
text. I will select a single page from
a vintage text, without scanning
the page for potential words I
might want to use. I actively enjoy
the thrill of fnding the unexpected,
or of making do with the banal,
once I sit down with my scissors to
begin creating.
When I work, I typically have a few
collage/mixed media ATCs ready.
Sometimes, these are cards that
are complete, but just seem a little
too boring or are missing a little
something to make them pop.
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I pull a few pages from a vintage book or from my drawer of loose pages. [Figure 1]
For the card Im making here, I used a page from the book The Bobbsey Twinss Secret. I dont
look for phrases, but I cut words that I know Ill needa few defnite articles, a few pronouns,
and a few verbs. Then, I look for words that appeal to meon this page, I found Daddy and
shuffing and noises, among others. [Figure 2]
After cutting twenty-fve or thirty words, Ill take a look at what I have, and Ill rearrange them into
a series of phrases to create my found poem [Figure 3]. I
ended up using all but about fve of the words I clipped.
Often, Ill fnd that my found poem is too long for a single
card. In this case, Ill often break the poem over two cards, so
that I can use the entire creation. Glue is important because
I dont want words sloughing off of my cards. I embed my
words in Rangers Matte Accents or Glossy Accents most
often, so that theyre protected and permanently adhered.
Ive added my resulting poem on two separate cards.
And by using about twenty words from a single page of a
Bobbsey Twins novel, two ATCs have gained a mysterious
narrative that ultimately refocuses and deepens the collage
on which the words are fxed. Im delighted with the creepy
undertone the poem hasespecially considering it came
from a childrens book.
Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3
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The concept of deconstructing an original text in order to create something new can be daunting
but I believe its important to move beyond the original meaning of the text. What I mean is, if I
take a page from a 1950s romance novel, I work to create something entirely new, avoiding the
temptation to create a found poem that is romantic in nature. The exercise is about challenge:
taking a page from the same romance novel and creating a poem about something completely
unexpected, like the virtues of solitude, is my goal.
Found poems can, as the name suggests, be found anywhere from medical textbooks and fashion
magazines to tourist pamphlets and vintage handwritten letters. I hope that the accompanying
ATCs that incorporate or feature found poetry can inspire you to create some found poems of
your own.
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10 Minute Art Walkthrough
Funky Intuitive Watercolor Portraits
By Sal Scheibe
These fun little ATC watercolors shouldnt take more than
10 to 15 minutes each. Theyre quick and easy to create,
even for fairly new painters. The trick is to not worry about
getting things perfect. You need to paint intuitively, which
means you should be more interested in plopping down
some shapes and shadows to suggest facial features
rather than painting in actual features.
Start with a wet watercolor board or paper that you have
and plop on your paints to form a very basic facial shadow.
This should take about 20 seconds. Let dry and contine
with another shadow/shape layer, slowing forming into
a face. Each layer should take no more than a minute.
Youre painting intuitively here, not realistically. Once you
have a shape youre happy with, take your ink pen and
outline some features. Add funky lines and bubbles but
dont spend a lot of time making things perfect.These
little ATCs are 10-minute bits of fun!
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Funky Intuitive Watercolor
Portraits
10 minute time limit!
Workshop
Calendar
2010
ArtTrader offers many fantsatic online workshops
for our readers. We hope you can join us! Please
check the ArtTrader Mag website for details and
registration.
* January 12
Art Journals (8 week program)
* February 8
Whimsy Workshop Level 1 (4 weeks)
* February 16
Whimsical Mermaids (2 week program)
* March 8
Whimsy Workshop Level 2 (4 weeks)
* March 23
Altered Dominoes (2 week program)
* April 6
Whimsical Goddesses (2 week program)
* April 20
To be announced (2 week program)
* May 17
Mixed Media Gothic Art (2 week program)
* May 31
Color Exploration (2 week program)
* June 14
Colorful Funky Ladies (2 week program)
* June 28
Calligraphy (2 week program)
* July 12
Handmade / Recyled Paper (2 weeks)
* July 26
Mixed Media Canvases - Whimsical
Fantasy Art (4 week program)
* August 23
Artistic Expressions & Styles (4 weeks)
* Sept 20
Whimsical Mermaids (2 week program)
* Oct 4
Altered Dominoes (2 week program)
* Oct 18
Whimsical Goddesses (2 week program)
* Nov 8
Art Journals (8 week program)
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Colorful Funky Ladies
June 14, 2010
Color Exploration
May 31, 2010
Art Journals
January 12, 2010
Whimsy
Level I
Feb 8, 2010
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Art TRADER
www.arttradermag.com
Advertising. Product Reviews
& Partnership Inquiries
Sal Scheibe, Publisher
[email protected]
Article Submissions
Dana Driscoll, Editor
[email protected]
Artwork Submissions
Sal Scheibe, Art Director
[email protected]
Critique Corner
Andrea Melione
[email protected]
For additional details on our
submission and artwork guidelines,
please visit our website:
www.arttradermag.com
Call for Articles and Artwork
Thank you for your interest in contributing to ArtTrader Magazine.
ArtTrader Magazine is a web-based publication (in PDF format) focused
on Mail Art for trade such as ATCs (Artist Trading Cards), ACEOs, art
journals, chunky books, altered art and altered books.
We are always accepting the following types of materials:
How to or Step-by-step articles on artistic techniques. We are
interested in techniques that can be applied to any mail art. These
include illustrative techniques, and also works in fabric, digital, collage,
mixed media, and more.
Articles on artistic journeys or experiences. Do you have an interesting
story that you would like to share? We would like to hear it.
Artist Spotlight/Profle. Do you have a body of work you would like
share? We would love to feature you in our artist spotlight.
Showcasing Art. We are interested in showcasing assemblages,
mixed media work, creative journaling, chunky books, fat books, inchies,
ATCs (Artist Trading Cards), post cards and more. These types of articles
usually have a small bit of background accompanying them but primarily
are visual in nature.
Product and Book Reviews. If you are interested in writing a review of
a new product or book that is connected to the Mail Art world, we would
enjoy hearing about it.
Submissions of Artwork
Almost all of our articles require artwork submissions. You might also want
to submit artwork to appear in our webzine galleries. Our call for artwork
is always open and we welcome your submissions of ATCs, ACEOs, art
journals, chunky pages or altered books. Everyone is welcome to submit
their art. You do not need to be a member of IllustratedATCs.com to
submit artwork.
You must submit your work to us in digital format.
300-400 DPI is suffcient. Do not submit artwork lower than 300 DPI.
Acceptable formats include: JPG, BMP, TIF. Do not submit GIF fles.
Any submitted artwork should be at least 500 pixels wide and high
(they can be much larger than this, of course!) Cone Flowers
ATC by Sal Scheibe
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