Discourse and The Nothingness of Culture
Discourse and The Nothingness of Culture
Discourse and The Nothingness of Culture
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Figure 14. Unveiling of the sake aroma wheel Ronn Wiegand, in Wine & Spirits,
February 1994, 39. 1993 by Ronn Wiegand. Used by permission.
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taxonomies in a single circular displayeven for beer in gure 15, bringing this
drink and its consuming public formerly culturally opposed to wine into the
aesthetic fold.
For indeed the second broadly institutionalized realm intersected in enophily
is, to be sure, aesthetic connoisseurship and the communities of practice it en-
gages around any particular focus of attention organizing, at least in part,
ones style of life. The analogue is, of course, art connoisseurship as made clear
in William Hamiltons cartoon in g. 11. There are professional connoisseurs
Figure 15. The beer avor wheel. American Society of Brewing Chemists. Used by
permission.
Discourse and the No-thing-ness of Culture 355
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who set price in the art market, and these people are valued for the subtlety
of their judgment in discerning and projecting futurities amid all the risks to
collectors and other avocational enthusiasts who are, at the same time, inves-
tors in a commodity that accrues monetary value in the market. Just as there
are published the Wine Spectator and the Wine Advocate and, according to the
Google search engine as of July 2013, 14,800,000 sites accessible through the
expression wine appreciation and 1,130,000,000 through the expression wine
terms,
7
so also do we now have the Beer Advocate, the Malt Advocate i.e.,
scotch whiskey, the Cheese Advocate, and so forth, both in print and online.
The imitative parallelismhow these forms of avocational fandom mimic that
of wineis extraordinary.
The third macro-institution is life-style retailing, which relies on the existence
of the rst two. What you are in consumption class is what you eat, drink, wear,
et ceteraand what you consciously discover you have to think or say about
the experience. In such retailing, a product that can be a performative emblem
of distinction always hovers between total individuation of an artisanal experi-
ence and the repetition of brand dependability, of course. Total individuation in
wine gets down to the level of the individual bottle; the best enological connois-
seurs facing the most rareed of wines operate at this level. Note how this cul-
tural concept of distinctiveness informs the practice, at serving, of never lling
a glass with bottle number two if there is still present in the glass some of wine
of bottle number one, for example. Even where it is ridiculous not to do so, it
is an indexically pregnant gesture of interdiscursive reference to the top-and-
center of viticultural distinction. At the other extreme, it is brand, brand, brand
that is the principle of marketing, like the mass-produced couturier lines that
self-advertise on the products themselves.
8
At the middle ranges of the wine
market in the United Sates, brandedness is the key to marketing; the consumer
must be made to feel the equivalentfor wine, certainly anchored in France and
Frenchof prominently showing off a Prada article of clothing on the body,
or a Miele dishwasher in the fabulously up-to-date kitchen. In this light, look
at the clever Clos du Bois ad in gure 16 which, summoning to consciousness
what we might term the wine brands Frenchness, of which a host serving it
7. An earlier Google search, done almost four years earlier on October 1, 2009, yielded 422,000 sites keyed
by wine appreciation and 25,300,000 by wine terms, giving some sense of either the phenomenal growth of
online information, as consumerist desire in this realm reaches out to the trendy newer media, or of the
eciency of the search engine, or some combination of both.
8. For illuminatingly semiotic discussions of brand, see Moore 2003, Manning 2010, and Nakassis
2012, the latter in particular worrying the citational Nakassis 2013 nature of branded commodities.
356 Signs and Society
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to guests can be proud, notwithstanding emphasizes itssurprise!Califor-
nian provenance.
The emanation of these cultural forms constructing wine with exceedingly
high register effects to other prestige comestibles and their connoisseurs is, in
fact coming to dene what a prestige comestible is. Early on in the Starbucks
coffee phenomenon, for example, the company circulated a take one newslet-
ter educating its consumer-customers about the rareed purchasing experience
they were having at Starbucks. As can be seen in gure 17, the prose of these
informativeindeed, educationalmaterials takes the genred form of wine-
tasting notes: seductive Ethiopian Sidamo has owery bouquet with a hint
of eucalyptus, light and elegant body, and a honeyed natural sweetness; Har-
rars Chiantiesque, slightly gamy aroma gives it a certain rustic charrn as a
Figure 16. The Frenchness of wine illustrated. 1996 Clos Du Bois Winery
Discourse and the No-thing-ness of Culture 357
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coffee for people who like excitement at the cost of subtlety. And speaking of
subtlety, what could be less subtle in analogical form, as revealed in gure 18,
than the full-page glossy magazine advertisement for Colombian coffeea cof-
fee varietal that is, we should surely appreciate, akin to wine itself in its most
characteristically French denomination, an AOC, appellation dorigine contrle.
Every prestige comestible is now wrapped in oinoglossia, wine talk, some
literally. Here, in gure 19, is the wrapper of one of Lindts chocolate bars. It
teaches the consumer that chocolate must be aesthetically perceived just like
Figure 17. Kevin Knoxs tasting notes on African varietal coffees Inside Scoop, JuneJuly
1991, 2. Starbucks Coffee Co.. 1991 Starbucks Coffee Company. Quoted by permission.
358 Signs and Society
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wine, through stages of apperceptive evaluationsight, break-feel, aroma, taste,
aftertastein which, of course, this brand will be seen to be the best.
As we can see, from wine emanates a notion of what it is to be part of the
prestige economy of aesthetic comestibles, people and things linked therein, in
which all the signs from language on out are deeply enmeshed in register effects
that construct both the comestible and at the same time the consumer in a system
of cultural values that is still growinglike good vines. And even beyond hu-
mans: gure 20 is an image of the impeccable taste appropriately enough imag-
ined to be enregistered by the noble king of beasts.
Finally, it is important to note that such cultural processes of enveloping
semioticization have a temporality such that what is happening at the institu-
tional center of emanation may be already shifting just as its inuence is being
Figure 18. Colombian coffee in the image of French wine. 1997 Federacin Nacional de
Cafeteros de Colombia.
Discourse and the No-thing-ness of Culture 359
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felt elsewhere in social space-time. Thus, on September 9, 2009, the New York
Timess wine critic, Eric Asimov, wrote about the populist proletarianization of
wine connoisseurship on the online video blog of one Gary Vaynerchuk, pro-
prietor of The Wine Library formerly Shoppers Discount Liquor in Spring-
eld, New Jersey, a couple of miles west of Newark Airport. As revealed in
gure 21, Everymanto use the medieval generic nameis here revealed
to be a prole connoisseur in the illustrative photo shoot: open-shirted, tieless,
expressive-faced, perhaps visibly ethnic, tasting wine in the upstairs storeroom.
You, Everyman, can borrow taste from The Wine Library! And on the very same
day, Thomas Conner of the Chicago Sun-Times wrote about tea sommeliers,
tea-tasting ritual, stylistically vinied tea merchants elegantly dressed and ele-
gant of ritual, and the emergence of regimes of certication of expertise par-
allel to that of wine experts by the American Tea Masters Association, a self-
proclaimed certifying board. Observe the dress, the comportment, the demeanor
exemplied in gure 22: is that emanation, or what? The waves in the pond
of culture continue to ripple at the circumference of the circular undulations
created where the stone is rst dropped inperhaps, to mix the metaphor, leav-
ing us with an ironic aftertaste.
Figure 20. A tasting note by the noblest of beasts Paul Wood. New Yorker cartoonbank.
com, cartoon image no. 8544718, reprinted by permission.
Discourse and the No-thing-ness of Culture 361
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Especially in institutionally complex and mass social formations, emanations
proceed simultaneously from many competing centers of regimentation; in-
deed, they must operate in a socio-spatio-temporality somewhat slower and
more scale-encompassing than mere interdiscursivity as such, mere circulation,
which is the semiotic infrastructure and medium of emanation.
Figure 21. Gary Vaynerchuk of The Wine Library videotaping his wine blog. Richard Perry/
New York Times/Redux. Used by permission.
362 Signs and Society
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So there you have it: whatever one might want to call cultural manifests in
this trimodal semiotic. As anthropologists we may be attracted to one of them
but always nd that we must take account of the other two in order really to
locate, to nd, culture. Phenomenally and epistemologically semiotic signica-
tion emerges in the rst instance in events of discursive interaction, though as
weve seen, to explain the interactional text frequently involves at least under-
standing the interdiscursivities of circulation. Circulation as such encompasses a
social organization of communication, frequently and especially as institutional-
ized across structural sites that are implicitly referencedin renvoi and in pro-
lepsisin some particular site we seek to understand and interpret. And nally,
emanation denes an overall structure of tiered nodes in a network of sites of
practice, generative centers of semiosis and paths to their peripheries. In or
through such emergent structures, semiotic value via genres of textuality, ever
of the moment, ows and intersects that coming from other generative centers,
such that complex cultural forms as experienced are inevitably multiply deter-
mined from several such centers of emanation. Wine and its oinoglossic regis-
ters of verbal, visual, et cetera, semiosis seem socio-historically to have crystal-
lized at such an intersection, as we have seen, and we have caught it as it, in turn,
Figure 22. Rod Markus, a tea sommelier, examines a brewing pot of tea. Keith Hale/
Chicago Sun-Times/Redux. Used by permission.
Discourse and the No-thing-ness of Culture 363
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has seemed to emerge as a relatively autonomous center of emanation, semioti-
cally informing the more general stratication of consumption.
We have moved away fromthe essentializing and enumerating concept of cul-
tures as distinctive stuff to the contemporary semiotic world of cultural pro-
cesses. Yet even in this semiotic world the ontological claim to unique cultures
see Silverstein 2005b has itself become a genred discursive form asserting
locality Appadurai 1996, 17899 that emanates from numerous interested
centers and spreads accordingly as it licenses such claims. But one hopes that
contemporary sociocultural anthropology and any of its allied meta-semiotics
escape these emanations at an analytic plane all the while recognizing them as
a force in the circulation and signication of culture.
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