Bucharest

Bucharest
April - May 2014

N88 - 15.00 lei
inyourpocket.com
15 Years!
Bucharest In Your Pocket
celebrates its birthday
New Look
In Your Pocket gets a
thoroughly modern makeover
Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
April - May 2014 3 facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket
Contents
E S S E N T I A L
C I T Y G U I D E S
15 Years of Bucharest IYP 6
From terrible covers to law suits and Romania Mare
Arriving & Getting Around 12
Bucharest Basics 18
Culture & Events Listings 22
Whats on in Bucharest
Restaurants 28
The tastiest places in the city to eat
Nightlife 47
The citys best pubs and clubs
Sightseeing 51
Dont leave Bucharest without seeing the essentials
Old Town 60
Where Bucharest goes to party
Shopping 79
Souvenirs, local designers and local wine
Hotels 81
Directory 90
Maps
Northern Bucharest map 94-95
Central & Southern Bucharest map 96-97
Street register 98
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A traditional Romanian dance troupe celebrate 15 years of Bucharest In Your Pocket
4 Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Foreword
Bucharest In Your Pocket
IYP Romania Srl
Str. Stefan Burileanu 1-3
Bl. 21E, Sc. 1, Ap. 8,
Bucuresti 014191, Romania
Tel. (+4) 021 321 44 18
[email protected]
ISSN 1454-5276 IYP Romania Srl. Printed at MEGAPress SA,
Bucharest (tel. (+4) 021 461 08 08/09). Published six times per
year, up to 20,000 copies produced each issue. Bucharest In
Your Pocket is a member of the Romanian Audit Bureau of
Circulation (BRAT).
Editorial
Editor Craig Turp Photography IYP Romania Srl unless
otherwise stated Cover Dreamstime Metro Map Maximilian
Turp-Balazs from an idea by Alexander Sirbu
Sales
To contact a member of our sales team send an email to the
address [email protected], or call our oce and
ask for the sales department.
Copyright notice
Text, photos and maps copyright IYP Romania Srl 1999-2014
unless otherwise stated. All rights reserved. No part of this pub-
lication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts
for the purpose of its review, without written permission from
the copyright owner. The trademark In Your Pocket is used
under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernadinu g. 9-4,
Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
E S S E N T I A L
C I T Y G U I D E S
THE NEW IN YOUR POCKET
Regular readers would have no doubt noticed that
this issue of In Your Pocket is sporting something of a
new look. Designed entirely with our readers in mind,
we have taken on board hundreds of comments we
have received over the past few years to come up with
a new format for our guides to make them more dy-
namic, streamlined and easier on the eye than ever be-
fore. With far less clutter than in past editions, we now
emphasise the very best a city has to oer, while still
ensuring that we point your way to all of those quirky,
o-the-beaten track places you will not nd in any
other, lesser city guides.
Where on earth have all those years gone? It feels like only
yesterday that In Your Pocket turned up in Romania, wet be-
hind the ears with dreams of dropping a half-decent city
guide on the countrys capital Bucharest. That we managed to
do so, and that we this issue celebrate 15 years in the business
is testament not to our staying power, but to the simple fact
that Bucharest grabbed us with both arms, pulled us to her
ample bosom and refused let us go. Its that kind of city: you
dont visit, live or work in Bucharest, it visits, lives and works
in you. And we doubt anyone would have it any other way.
Bucharest has seen many changes over the 15 years we
have been publishing our little guide. The city has grown,
become wealthier, more sophisticated and far more visitor
friendly. One thing remains consistent, however: this is still
the smokiest city in Europe, the continents smoking sec-
tion, where it is increasingly dicult to go anywhere to eat
or drink without your clothes reeking of tobacco by the end
of the night. Surely, 15 years on, its time for this to nally
change?
CZECH
REPUBLIC
SOUTH
AFRICA
POLAND
ROMANIA
HUNGARY
SERBIA BOSNIA
ALBANIA
GREECE
FYR MACEDONIA
BULGARIA
MONTENEGRO
ITALY
CROATIA
SLOVENIA
AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND
UKRAINE
GEORGIA
BELARUS
LITHUANIA
LATVIA
ESTONIA
RUSSIA
GERMANY
BELGIUM
NETHERLANDS
NORTHERN
IRELAND
IRELAND
ABOUT IYP
Its now 22 years since we published
the rst In Your Pocket guide - to Vilni-
us in Lithuania - in which time we have
grown to become the largest publisher
of locally produced city guides in Euro-
pe. We now cover more than 100 cities
across the continent and the number of
concise, witty, well-written and downri-
ght indispensable In Your Pocket guides
published each year is approaching
ve million. We will be expanding even
further in 2014, with the publication
of a guide to the islands of the Dutch
Caribbean: our rst in the Western He-
misphere.
To keep up to date with all thats new at
In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (face-
book.com/inyourpocket) or follow us
on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).
15 Years of Bucharest In Your Pocket
15 Years of Bucharest
In Your Pocket
BUCHAREST IN YOUR POCKET TAKES A SELF
INDULGENT STROLL ALONG MEMORY LANE
When we researched the rst issue
of Bucharest In Your Pocket we had a
feeling that the city was too big to be
put in a pocket. Fifteen years and 88
issues later we have proven that we
can actually put the essence of this
city in our handy guide.
Matthias Luefkens, Founder
What can only be described as Eclipse Fever was gripping
the nation when the rst Bucharest In Your Pocket was pub-
lished in May, 1999. Bucharest was, you see, being heralded
as the best place in the world to view one of natures rari-
ties: a total eclipse of the sun scheduled for August 11th,
and which would darken the sky for three minutes and
make stars visible at midday.
Bizarre as it may seem now but many people in Roma-
nia were counting on the eclipse kickstarting the countrys
tourist industry. Ocial projections of visitor numbers went
into the millions, with Interior Minister Dudu Ionescu tell-
ing Reuters in April 1999 that he expected crowds to over-
whelm the capital.
He neednt have worried, for as it turned out of course
nobody - and we mean nobody - came, and the eclipse
passed overhead without event. Indeed, cloud cover and
light drizzle meant that most people in the capital - the ma-
jority of whom had assembled on rooftops and balconies
wearing ridiculous sunglasses emblazoned with Coca-Cola
logos saw nothing.
Yet it was not just the Romanian authorities who were
in optimistic mood back in 1999. Even Bucharest In Your
Pocket, today of course a gnarled, bitten and pessimistic
publication with an enormous chip on its shoulder, was
back then all too often quick to give Bucharest the benet
of the doubt. In issue one we stated with barely disguised
pride that drivers should know that the speed limit of 50km
is strictly enforced by the Romanian police. Strictly en-
forced? Has anyone ever seen the Romanian police strictly
enforce anything?
Not that we were blind to all realities. We printed the
national average wage (1,172,000 lei, then US$82) and not-
ed how pensioners were expected to scratch out a living
on US$35. We also a publishing rst in Romania, we be-
lieve stated the price charged by the high-class hookers
that frequented the citys ve-star hotels (US$200), as well
as that charged by the less classy ladies at the bottom end
of Calea Victoriei (US$50). Interestingly, it was that piece of
information above all others which won us our rst friends.
For a view of how much has changed in Bucharest
since our rst issue, and how far the city has come, it is
enough just to look at the listings we had then, and those
we have now.
In Where to Stay we presented all of Bucharests hotels,
30 of them. In this issue we feature more than double that,
and there are some we have had to ditch for a lack of space.
The Nightlife section of issue one ran to just two pages,
while in the Getting Around chapter we listed all of Bucha-
rests petrol stations (there were 18).
The biggest section back then as it remains today
was of course Restaurants. In BIYP 1 we featured 41 places
to eat, and that included just about everywhere in and
around the city centre. In this issue we have more than 100
restaurants included, and tens more in our database (and
online at inyourpocket.com) that we simply do not have
room for in print.
In the fteen years we have been publishing our re-
views - not all of which are of course complimentary - we
have had too many threats of legal action to remember.
Only twice, however, have we actually been brought before
a court on libel charges. And I am happy to report that on
both occasions we won.
The rst case, in 2002, was brought against us by the
Becker Brau Brewery on Calea Rahova, after we dared to
criticize the service. The second case, in 2004, was brought
by the Marele Zid Chinese restaurant in Brasov, after we
told the readers of a special Brasov supplement to run, run
away before they were tempted to go inside and eat. In
both cases the two judges dismissed claims of libel, invok-
ing our right to criticize.
We have also had to deal regularly with copyright theft.
Back in 2000 the entire contents of an early issue were
translated into French and used in Petit Futes Romania
guide. Our legal team had it removed from sale - and we
8 Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com April - May 2014 9 facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket
15 Years of Bucharest In Your Pocket 15 Years of Bucharest In Your Pocket
ably with the Ceausescu regime. One client pulled an ad-
vert in objection to our stance.
Support came from the British ambassador, who raised
spirits with a letter of support, while Tim Johnson who
would later became an In Your Pocket ad sales guru - wrote
about the commotion in the weekly English-language (as
it was then) newspaper Bucharest Business Week, with a
charming picture of editor Jeroen van Marle feeding a copy
of our guide to a stray dog (who had been enticed to do so
with the promise of meat). Happy days, may there be many
more to come. Woof!
The cover of the rst issue of Bucharest In Your Pocket. Its a wonder
we ever made it to issue two
UNIMAGINABLE SWINERY
In 2000 the marketing director of a very well known tel-
ecoms company told us in no uncertain terms that he
would never, ever advertise in Bucharest In Your Pocket
because our vision of Bucharest does not match yours.
In a nutshell, we did not paint a rosy enough picture of
the city.
Though masked in language that was far more civil,
the message we got was much the same as that which
Romania Mare, newspaper of the nationalist Greater Ro-
mania Party, had greeted the rst issue of BIYP with a year
earlier. AT ODORHIEU SECUIESC THE HUNGARIANS HAVE
PRINTED AN UNIMAGINABLE SWINERY AGAINST ROMA-
NIA, they barked, in an article we reproduce below. They
said that we claimed Bucharest was a dirty, smoky and
polluted city of two million people.
That Romania was a country with Europes last leper
colony, a country of extreme poverty, institutionalised
homophobia and nationwide discrimination against
gypsies. Well, we said it, we meant it, and by and large
much of what we wrote then remains valid today.
Later in 2000 we were again in the headlines, after daily
newspaper Adevarul featured on the front cover - an in-
terview with a senator, Emil Tocaci, who called for nothing
less than our guide to be banned, saying that this tourist
brochure says things that will not encourage foreign visi-
tors to Romania.
Adevarul went on to do a further hatchet job on us,
claiming in a double-page spread that we promote Bu-
charest as a city of thieves, false policemen, pimps and
prostitutes, using the money of Romanian companies to
do so. The simple fact that an elected senator was call-
ing for the state to ban an independent publication (and
thinking that the state would have the power to do so)
betrays the statist-era mindset of many Romanian poli-
ticians at that time. It also, however, shows how far the
country has come since then.
Romania Mare, Senator Emil Tocaci and the marketing
director of the telecoms company all got worked up for
one simple reason: they completely misunderstood what
Bucharest In Your Pocket is. Damn right we do not attract
visitors to Bucharest: that is not our job. (Though given
that visitor numbers in the fteen years since we rst ap-
peared have gone up by about three million per cent, we
can hardly have been said to put anyone o). As a visitors
guide our job is simply to provide those foreigners who
do come here with the most accurate information about
the city as possible. If that means warning people about
stray dogs so be it. If it means pointing out that much of
the city is without proper sewerage, so be it. We do not
promote Bucharest, we simply report what we see. We
have done that now for fteen years, and 88 issues. We
will continue to do so for another 88. And another...
are talking every copy, worldwide - at no small cost to Petit
Fute. Local copycats have been two to a penny, with almost
every other visitors guide to Bucharest that has appeared
(and in many cases promptly disappeared) using our con-
tent at one stage or another. Insiders Guide to Bucharest and
Bucharest Guide being just two of the (now defunct) charla-
tans who have felt the wrath of our legal team.
Over the years though, no subject has been more con-
troversial than the shaggy dog story that is Bucharests stray
dog situation. We have gained a certain reputation for be-
ing outspoken on the subject, going all the way back to
issue one, when we wrote: In this town, you cant swing a
cat without hitting a stray dog.
What had happened was that the writer of issue one,
Leeore Schnairson, had been bitten by a stray in the city
centre and was subjected to some nasty rabies shots,
turning opinion in the oce against the mutts and the
misguided fools who feed, protect and defend them. Lazy
television journalists picked up the topic and broadcast
nonsense, with Pro TV being the only station that bothered
to come and interview us on the subject, running the full
story on the evening news.
Our comments in subsequent issues (including one
which suggested all strays should be exterminated and
perhaps served as a national dish) got us angry faxes from
a French animal rights association, comparing us unfavour-
ROLL OF HONOUR
We would not be here today were it not for the drive,
ideas, support and contributions given to BIYP over
the years by the following people: Jeroen van Marle,
Matthias Luefkens, Tim Johnson, Martin Kitson, George
Ortiz, Oliver Ortiz, Nicolas Ortiz, Reine Ortiz, Nicola Wil-
liams, Martins Zaprauskis, Oana Sav, Adriana Doltea,
Loredana Racaru, Eduard Cristea, Adrian Ojog, Magda
Paa, Alexander Srbu, Miruna Popescu, Angela Arutei,
Mihaela Glavan, Andreea Pasca, Oana Bakovic, Catalin
Cazacu, Anca Bucataru, Raluca Tanasa, Tim Judy, Deb-
bie Stowe, Scott Alexander Young, Craig Young, Leeore
Schnairson, Ruta Klimaviciute, Tomas Haman, Sebastian
Grzymala.
15 Years of Bucharest In Your Pocket
THE EARLY DAYS
Jeroen van Marle, whose persistence gave birth to Bucha-
rest In Your Pocket, writes about the guides earliest days...
Since its foundation in 1992, the In Your Pocket (IYP) se-
ries had become increasingly successful in the Baltic re-
gion, and by 1999 its owners were looking to expand. I
had used one of the rst editions of Vilnius In Your Pock-
et on a trip to the Baltic States in 1992, and some years
later - after my studies had brought me to Romania - I
dug out my old copy of Vilnius IYP and realised Romania
would be a great place to start a similar guide. I sent an
email to IYP in August 1998, and moved to Romania six
months later to set up two new In Your Pocket guides,
Bucharest and Southern Transylvania, the rst of doz-
ens of new IYP guides to be published across Europe.
At the time, In Your Pocket didnt have useful manuals
for how to write a rst issue or how to run an oce, and
there was an enormous amount of work to be done,
from hiring sta, setting up the company and nding
oce space (a tiny apartment overlooking the Cercul
Militar) to getting the phones and internet to work
and writing the guide. In 1999, Romania wasnt the
most stable of countries. There was high ination that
made accounting problematic, and just when we had
ordered and paid for the oce computers, the leu fell
by some 15 per cent overnight and the computer shop
refused to deliver without extra payment.
Then we needed to nd a bank. This was not easy, as
none of the Romanian ones appeared reliable - these
were the days of Bancorex and Banca Nationala a Re-
ligiilor, remember - and corporate giants such as ABN
AMRO refused to take us on as clients. Ill always re-
member the monthly taxi ride to ING (the one foreign
bank that did want our custom) to fetch millions and
millions of lei in brown paper bags to pay the salaries.
The rst months at Romania In Your Pocket were cha-
otic, sleepless and highly educational, but resulted in a
cracking rst edition of Bucharest In Your Pocket, albeit
with a ghastly cover photo that immediately made an
impact locally. The rst proper English-language visitor
guide to a city that still had no tourist oce was well-
received.
After two intensive but enjoyable years in Romania, I
was asked to help InYour Pocket expand elsewhere, and I
handed Bucharest IYP over to Craig Turp, who has looked
after things in one capacity or another ever since.
Im delighted to see that 15 years on Bucharest In Your
Pocket is still the quality city guide that we had in mind
from day one, and has managed to help hundreds of
thousands of travellers with its honest reviews, and
oer dozens of Romanians a career in an international
publishing company. Heres to many more years!
COVER PARADE
After something of a bad start (see page 9), we have
had some fantastic covers: the six featured here are just
a selection. Above left is the cover of BIYP 11: boats on
Herastrau Lake by Andreea Pasca. Given that is the only
cover that both the editorial and sales teams agree is
fantastic, it probably ranks as the oce all-time favour-
ite; BIYP 18 is an editorial favourite, the CEC building,
while BIYP 22 (below left), an espresso machine in a Bu-
charest cafe, is the sales teams choice. BIYP 33 next to it
was novel: bereft of ideas we visited a shop and took a
photo of a box of chocolates.
BIYP 35 (below left) was a gift from the organisers of
Bucharests rst Cow Parade, while the cover of BIYP 87
- which launched our new-look design, really did put
Bucharest back on the map...
Bucharest
February - March 2014
N87 - 15.00 lei
inyourpocket.com
Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.
The New York Times
Arriving & Getting Around Arriving & Getting Around
ARRIVING AT OTOPENI
Bucharests only commercial airport is Otopeni (ocial-
ly Henri Coanda), 17km north of the city on the DN1.
Opened in 1970 and recently extended, it is a spacious,
ecient airport. After getting o the plane and easing
your way through passport control, youll nd yourself in
the baggage reclaim area. Ignore all of the services on of-
fer here, especially the currency exchange desks. Instead,
grab your luggage (if it fails to arrive head for the small
oce on the right hand of side of the exit), and head o
through customs to the arrivals area. Here there are loads
of ATMs, a press shop and a small cafe. To the right is a
passage leading to the departures terminal, lined with
car hire desks and a few shops, including a chemist.
To order a taxi, look for the touchscreens in the arrivals
hall. They are fully automated and very easy to use (and
oer multiple-language options), and you can choose
a taxi from just about the full range of Bucharest taxi
companies: all have their taris clearly displayed. Once
the taxi company of your choice has informed you (via
the screen) how long the taxi will take to arrive, and
what ID number the taxi has, you simply go outside to
wait for your taxi. Make sure you get into the correct
taxi: check the company name and ID number. Ignore
the Rapid taxis which wait on the lower level.
For those who want to head into town in a bit more
comfort than your average visitor, a good option is
TransVision, who oer airport transfers in a eet of
smart vehicles from as little as 5 per person. Call (+4)
755 05 26 21 or go to visit their website, www.airport-
transfer-bucharest.com.
You can also get to town by taking bus 783, which stops
underneath the arrivals hall, in front of internal arrivals
and leaves for the city centre (stopping at Piata Victoriei,
Piata Romana and Piata Universitatii) every 30 minutes
during the day, and then every 40 minutes throughout
the night. The full timetable of the 783 bus is online at
ratb.ro. Another bus, the 780, runs from the airport to
Gara de Nord from 05:15 to 23:00 roughly every 30 min-
utes. You need to purchase an Activ Card before board-
ing (get it from the little booth which youll nd on your
right hand side as you exit). A return journey into the
city and back costs 7 lei (no singles are available, but
there is no time limit on using the return). You also need
to pay 3.70 lei for the card itself, but it can be recharged
as often as you like at any ticket kiosk in Bucharest, with
as much credit as you wish, and used on all Bucharest
buses, trolleybuses and trams. These cards cannot be
bought on board. There is also a train which connects
the airport to the main railway station, Gara de Nord.
The train departs at irregular intervals, however, and to
get to the airports station you need to take a minibus.
Timetables and tickets are available from a counter in
the Arrivals hall. Look out for the Bilete CFR sign.
ARRIVING AT GARA DE NORD
If you arrive in Bucharest by train you will arrive at Gara
de Nord. It is OK, but has the usual collection of rogues,
tramps and thieves to contend with. There are ATMs,
shops, kiosks, a McDonalds and a KFC. It even now has
free Wi. To get to town take an honest taxi from the of-
cial taxi station outside (ignore anyone who approach-
es you inside the station). Currently, only taxis from two
reliable Bucharest companies, Meridian and Pelican, are
allowed to pick up fares here. If no taxi is waiting, use
one of the two touch screens to order one. You can also
hop on the metro: you are just one stop away from Piata
Victoriei, or take the bus: No. 123 goes to Piata Unirii,
No. 85 to Piata Universitatii. Tram 44 goes to Cismigiu.
Tickets (in the form of a Card Activ) from the kiosk next
to the bus stop (itself next to the taxi rank).
WARNING: None of Bucharests reputable hostels send
people to Gara de Nord to speculatively meet trains.
Anyone who approaches you (and if you have just got
o the Budapest train and have a backpack, you will
be approached) is trying to scam you: they will try and
divert you from your intended destination (often by say-
ing that the place you want to go to is closed) towards
another hostel or hotel that they will recommend to
you. Just ignore anything they say and wave them away.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Bucharest is served by an extensive public transport net-
work, made up of bus, trolleybus, tram and metro. All forms
of public transport in Bucharest are very cheap.
BUCHAREST METRO Opened in 1979, Bucharests metro
was primarily built to ship workers from the vast housing
estates of Titan, Berceni and Militari out to the huge indus-
trial plants at Pipera, IMGB, Republica and Industriilor. Thats
all very well if you are resident of Titan working at IMGB, but
useless to almost everybody else. The city centre is poorly
served by the metro and only the north-south M2 line, from
Pipera to Berceni, which passes through Piatas Victoriei, Ro-
mana and Unirii, and the M1 branch to the Gara de Nord, is
likely to be of any use to visitors.
METRO TICKETS Tickets for the Bucharest metro are
cheap: they cost either 4 lei (valid for two trips; doua ca-
latorii) or 15 lei (ten trips; zece calatorii) and can be bought
from any metro station. You can also buy tickets valid for
one day (abonament de o zi), costing 6 lei. The metro runs
from around 05:00 to 23:00.
TRAMS, BUSES & TROLLEYBUSES (RATB)
Even the most remote corners of Bucharest are served by
bus, trolleybus or tram, and most main roads in the city cen-
tre benet from three or four dierent transport routes. Most
buses are overcrowded, however, and travelling on them can
often be a less than pleasant experience. Buses, trolleybuses
and trams run from very early in the morning (around 04:30)
to around 23:00 (earlier at weekends), after which the night
buses take over. The night bus network is extensive, and
operates an hourly service throughout the night. All night
buses depart from PiataUnirii. Look out too for the open-top,
hop-on, hop-o Sightseeing Bus. It runs each summer and
follows a circular route from Piata Presei Libere to Piata Unirii
and back. It should be in service again by mid-May, but at
press time we had not been able to conrm a date, or this
years ticket prices. Tickets valid all day last year cost 25 lei for
adults. They can be bought on board.
RATB TICKETS To use a bus, trolleybus or tram you will
need to buy an Activ Card before climbing aboard. These
cards cost 3.70 lei, and can be bought from the little kiosks
next to major stops. They need to be loaded with credit
(minimum 5 lei, maximum 50 lei) and are reusable. The card
is then debited each time you validate it at one of the orange
devices located on buses, trams and trolleybuses, or at the
entrance to the metro. One trip costs 1.30 lei. On all forms of
public transport in Bucharest children under the age of seven
travel free. After that age they need a full-price ticket.
TRAINS
Given that Romanias roads are terrible, its comforting to
know that the countrys railways are equally crap. Having
said that, many long years of upgrade work on the Bucha-
Arriving & Getting Around
TRAIN SCHEDULE
From BUCHAREST To BUCHAREST
Dep. Arr. Dep. Arr.
05:52 08:35 BRASOV 05:30 08:15
13:00 15:28 BRASOV 09:42 12:10
15:30 18:10 BRASOV 13:40 16:05
16:45 19:35 BRASOV 16:16 19:06
17:30 20:00 BRASOV 20:45 23:09
13:00 22:22 CLUJ-NAPOCA 14:00 23:09
10:15 13:03 CONSTANTA 08:30 11:20
17:00 19:48 CONSTANTA 16:50 19:39
15:45 18:47 CRAIOVA 16:20 19:20
13:40 17:23 GALATI 17:40 21:34
16:00 23:06 IASI 06:00 13:10
18:40 07:13 ORADEA 19:08 07:48
18:40 09:29 SATU MARE 16:50 07:48
10:30 15:38 SIBIU 15:01 20:40
13:00 17:55 SIGHISOARA 18:26 23:09
11:10 19:21 TIRGU MURES 13:07 21:20
05:45 14:15 TIMISOARA 05:45 14:28
Veried on March 31, 2014. The full Romanian
railway schedule is online at: cfrcalatori.ro
rest - Brasov and Bucharest - Constanta routes are now
complete, and journey times are back to something ap-
proaching 1989 levels: just over 2 hrs 30 mins to Brasov, 2
hrs 50 mins to Constanta. Should you have to take a train,
always try to get an InterCity (IC) or InterRegio (IR) as they
are the fastest and usually have the most modern rolling
stock. Regio (R-) trains are slow and use much older roll-
ing stock. You will also see trains designated as ICN: these
are InterCity trains which stop at more stations than usual,
and are more like InterRegios. Prices on all types of train are
relatively cheap, but are rising fast. An InterCity adult single
from Bucharest to Brasov costs 90.50 lei. To buy train tickets
visit either the station, a CFR agency or buy online at bilete.
cfrcalatori.ro. (Note that if buying online you need to do so
at least 24 hours in advance). Tickets cannot be purchased
on the train, though you can try bribing the guard.
AGENTIA DE VOIAJ CFR CFRs advance booking oces.
QA-4, Calea Grivitei 139, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021
313 26 42, www.cfr.ro. Open 08:00-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
WASTEELS Advance reservations for all types of trains.
QA-4, Gara de Nord, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 317
03 70, (+4) 021 300 27 30, www.triptkts.ro. Open 08:00
- 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
MOVING ON
With the exception of Budapest - served by several planes
and trains each day - getting from Bucharest to the capitals
of neighbouring countries is not as easy, quick or inexpen-
sive as you would expect. Here is a rundown of the fastest
and cheapest ways of getting from capital to capital...
BUCHAREST - BELGRADE
Tarom ies to Belgrade once a day, with prices from
218 return. Air Serbia is cheaper, with returns from
around 157. Incredibly, there is currently no train ser-
vice between Bucharest and Belgrade.
BUCHAREST - BUDAPEST
There are three ights from Bucharest to Budapest
each day, all operated by Tarom. Standard return pric-
es start at 207, although you can often nd cheaper
tickets if you book in advance. There are also three di-
rect trains connecting the two cities: the fastest day-
time service leaves at 05:45 (arriving in Budapest at
18:50) while the night train leaves at 17:40 and arrives
at 08:50. The price for a berth in a sleeping wagon is
around 90 (one way), while a bed in a cuseta (sharing
with up to ve others) costs 53.
BUCHAREST - CHISINAU
There are four ights a day between Bucharest and
Chisinau, and if bought far enough in advance return
plane tickets with Tarom can cost as little as 122. Air
Moldova also y the same route, tickets usually costing
slightly more, around 144 return. The overnight train
to Chisinau departs Bucharest at 19:40, and arrives in
the Moldovan capital at 09:02 the next morning. Tick-
ets cost from 41 (single).
BUCHAREST - KYIV
Getting to Kyiv from Bucharest takes plenty of spare
cash or patience. Just one airline ies direct to Kyiv
from Bucharest, Aerosvit, and prices start at a monop-
oly-tastic 334 return. The train to Kyiv takes a whop-
ping 30 hours and 17 minutes, leaving Bucharest at
19:40, arriving in Kyiv at 00:57 the following night. The
train is not direct: you need to change in Chisinau.
Tickets cost from 63 (single).
BUCHAREST - SOFIA
Flying to Soa from Bucharest costs around 140, with
either Tarom or Bulgaria Air. There are two direct (if very
slow) trains per day, one at 12:30 (arriving Soa 22:00)
and a night train leaving at 23:12 (arriving in Soa at
09:25). Single tickets cost from 59. Much faster than
the train is the daily coach linking Bucharest and Soa. It
leaves the Gara Filaret coach station next to Parcul Carol
(B-7) each day at 16:00, arriving in Soa just under seven
hours later. Tickets cost 100 lei and can be bought direct
from the driver, or online at www.oetapgroup.com.
Arriving & Getting Around Arriving & Getting Around
CAR RENTAL IN BUCHAREST
All of the major international car hire rms are present in
Bucharest, alongside a number of local outts. You usually
need to be over 21 to hire a car in Romania, and to have
held a license for at least three years.
AVIS
A delivery and collection service is available free of charge
within the city limits; the service is on request, and it de-
pends on the availability of the Avis rental oce.QB-dul
Theodor Pallady 51, tel. *AVIS (*2847) - OSSN (One Star
Smart Number), (+4) 021 210 43 44, fax (+4) 021 210
69 12, [email protected], www.avis.ro. Open 09:00
- 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at (C-5) InterContinental,
tel. (+4) 021 314 18 37, Open 08:00 - 20:00; Henri Coan-
da International Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 19 57, Open
07:00 - 02:00 and Avis Porsche Bucharest North, tel.
(+4) 0723 612 011, Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00,
Closed Sun.
BAVARIA RENT QDrumul Garii Otopeni 1B, tel. (+4)
0730 33 37 07, (+4) 031 802 22 22, fax (+4) 031 802 22
28, [email protected], www.bavariarent.ro. Open
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at Otopeni Airport,
tel. (+4) 021 201 45 34, (+4) 0730 33 37 05, Open 08:00-
02:00, Sat 08:00-20:00.
BUDGET QB-4, Str. Mihail Moxa 9, tel. (+4) 021 210 28
67, fax (+4) 021 210 29 95, [email protected],
www.budgetro.ro. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Also at (B-3) Calea Dorobanti 5 - 7 (Howard Johnson Ho-
tel), tel. (+4) 021 201 50 89, Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun and Henri Coanda International Airport, tel.
(+4) 021 204 16 67, Open 08:00 - 20:00.
CARS4RENT QStr. Drumul Odaii 1D (Hotel Charter),
tel. (+4) 0723 34 71 92/(+4) 0372 99 99 99, fax (+4)
021 352 87 16, [email protected], www.cars4rent.ro.
Open 24 hrs.
COMPACT RENT-A-CAR QA-4, B-dul N. Titulescu
1, bl A7, sc. 1, et. 6, ap. 16, tel. (+4) 0744 58 67 24, (+4)
021 312 98 57, fax (+4) 021 312 99 82, ofce@compact-
rentacar.ro, www.compact-rentacar.ro. Prices from
18/day.
EUROPCAR QD-6, Str. Grigore Mora 17, tel. (+4) 021
310 17 97, (+4) 0747 28 06 49, fax (+4) 021 310 17 96,
[email protected], www.europcar.ro.
Open 09:00 - 18:00. Also at Otopeni Airport tel. (+4)
0374 00 40, Open 08:00 - 22:00. Service also available
in Cluj, Constanta, Sibiu, Timisoara, Iasi.
HERTZ QA-1, Piata Montreal 10, entrance F, 1st Floor,
ofce 1.20, tel. (+4) 021 407 82 00, reservations@hertz.
ro, www.hertz.ro. Also at Henri Coanda Airport, tel. (+4)
021 204 12 78, Open 08:00 - 22:00.
SIXT NEW KOPEL QCalea Bucurestilor 201-203, tel.
(+4) 021 9400, (+4) 0372 37 20 05, [email protected],
www.sixt.ro. Open 09:00 - 17:30.
BUCHAREST TAXIS
By and large, Bucharests trustworthy taxis are easy to
spot as they are emblazoned with the name and phone
number of the company they are associated with. To
counter this, however, the dodgy ones have also start-
ed to plaster phone numbers over their cars, alongside
copy-cat logos that look cunningly like those of decent
taxi companies. Be extra careful when getting into a
taxi around Gara de Nord, Bucuresti Mall, Piata Universi-
tatii, Piata Unirii and the Old Town / Lipscani area. When
leaving a hotel or restaurant, always have the concierge
or waiter order you a cab. Never pay more than 1.77 lei
per kilometre in any taxi.
At Otopeni Airport, ignore any taxi drivers who ap-
proach you in the arrivals hall, as well as those which
wait downstairs: use the taxi ordering system. More
about that and arriving at Otopeni in the Arriving sec-
tion on page 6.
Some of Bucharests taxi companies now have smartphone
apps which make use of your phones GPS capabilities to
get the closest taxi to you as fast as possible. The best is Star-
Taxi: search for it on Google Play or the AppStore.
As an alternative to the standard taxis, there is also
now Black Cab to consider. Black Cab is a taxi service
which oers cabs at much the same price as standard
taxis, the only dierence being that there is a minimum
charge (14 lei). Regular users can pay monthly, and -
best of all - Black Cabs will travel to the suburbs (Pipera
and the like: many ordinary taxis will not). Black Cabs
cannot be hailed on the street, but can be pre-ordered
in a number of ways. Take a look at blackcab.ro.
TRUSTED TAXI COMPANIES:
Autogeneral 021 9401, Cobalcescu 021 9451, Con-
fort 021 9455, Cristaxi 021 9461, Leone 021 9425,
Mavi 021 9450 Meridian 021 9444, Mondial 021
9423, Speed Taxi 021 9477, Taxi As 021 9435, Taxi To-
tal 021 9424. Most of these companies have at least one
operator who speaks English.
TOURIST INFORMATION
INFO TOURIST CENTER A new, privately-run tourist
information centre on Calea Victoriei which is phenom-
enally helpful and - dare we say it - perhaps even better
than the citys ocial tourist information oce. Its open
Sundays too.QC-5, Calea Victoriei 68-70, tel. (+4) 021
211 33 66. Open 9:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Bucharest Basics
CRIME & SAFETY
We do not exaggerate when we say that Bucharest is one of
the safest capital cities in Europe. Violent crime is rare and
almost always carried out exclusively between rival gangs
in the citys less-salubrious areas. If you do not go looking
for trouble, the chances of you getting into any are tiny.
While pickpockets are everywhere (you should be particu-
larly careful on crowded buses), violent crime is unheard of,
and even women can walk the citys streets alone at night
in relative safety.
The Romanian police force is also far better and less
corrupt than it used to be and keeps a visual presence on
the citys streets, especially in busy areas such as Old Town
at night. The main police station in Bucharest is on B-dul
Lascar Cartagiu (B-4), halfway between Piata Romana and
Piata Victoriei. If you are driving, or are out late at night, it is
a good idea to carry at least a photocopy of your passport
and driving license. Drinking in public (except in designat-
ed areas) leaves you open to a ne, and despite appearanc-
es to the contrary, prostitution is illegal. If you are arrested
ask to speak to your embassy. There is a list on pages 90-91.
In a nutshell though, do not worry. Of all Bucharests
many problems, crime really is one of the least of them.
DOGS
It was once written that you couldnt swing a cat in Bucha-
rest without hitting a dog (by us, in fact, in our rst issue,
some 14 years ago) and it remains true - up to a point. Ac-
cording to a census carried out by the city council last year
there are still more than 64,000 stray dogs on Bucharests
streets (64,704 to be precise), although the vast majority
are found outside of the city centre. There are still some
packs of dogs in the city centre but these tend to be less
aggressive than those which live in the citys suburbs. How-
ever, the number of people being bitten each year in the
city is rising. In 2012 more than 16,000 people were bitten
by Bucharests strays, an increase of more than 30 per cent
on 2011. Despite this, there appears to be little real urgency
about any of the eorts being made to eradicate the prob-
lem. Indeed, to all intents and purposes the city council
has washed its hands of the issue. Add in the fact that a
large and vociferous minority of Bucharests citizens actu-
ally want the dogs to remain on the streets and it becomes
clear that the problem will not be dealt with anytime soon.
There are also a number of well-funded animal-rights NGOs
which reject any proposal to rid the city of its dogs.
All of these factors combined to tragic eect in Sep-
tember 2013, when a four-year-old boy was killed by a pack
of strays on some waste ground next to a park in northern
Bucharest. This awful incident immediately prompted the
authorities to pass new legislation designed to eradicate
dogs from Romanias streets once and for all. It remains to
SO WHERE AM I?
Bucharest, capital of Romania. Situated in that part of
the world which will - to those of a certain age - always
be known as Eastern Europe, it would be more accurate
to describe Bucharests geographical location as south-
eastern Europe.
Founded, legend has it, in the 14th century, Bucharest is
in that part of Romania known as Wallachia, one of the
three historic principalities which make up the modern
country (the others are Moldavia and Transylvania).
The ocial population of Bucharest is just under two
million, but as many migrants from the rest of the coun-
try do not bother to register as citizens of the capital,
the true number is thought to be closer to three million.
Bucharest is close to the Danube (which is just 69 kilo-
metres to the south), the border between Romania and
Bulgaria. The main crossing point is at Giurgiu, linked by
a bridge with Ruse, the Bulgarian town on the other side
of the river, whose pleasant centre is well worth a day
trip. Alas you will need a car, as train services between
Bucharest and Ruse (and the rest of Bulgaria) are poor.
Bucharest is around 240 kilometres from Constanta and
the Black Sea coast, and now that the A2 motorway goes
all the way to the Black Sea port, the journey can be done
in just over two hours. The train service to Constanta is
slower. To the north of Bucharest is Ploiesti - the centre of
Romanias oil industry, and beyond that the Carpathian
Mountains, a two hour drive away.
Bucharest Basics Bucharest Basics
be seen, however, if local councils - including that in Bucha-
rest - will act upon it.
Should the worst come to the worst and you are bitten
during your time in Bucharest, present yourself at once to
the casualty unit (Camera de Garda) at the Institutul Matei
Bals, (D-3) Str. Dr. Calistrat Grozovici 1, tel. (+4) 021 318 60
90. The wound will be cleaned up, and you will be admin-
istered both an anti-tetanus and an anti-rabies vaccine (the
anti-rabies injection is the rst of a course three: the others
must be done seven and then 21 days afterwards). You will
also get a prescription for a course of antibiotics.
LEFT LUGGAGE
Garade Nord oers left luggage facilities, but no luggage lock-
ers. You will nd the left luggage counter opposite the Was-
teels oce, a short walk from the platforms. The charge is 5 lei
per small bag per 24 hours, 9 lei for a bigger bag. You will need
to present valid ID when dropping o or picking up a bag.
MONEY
Romanias currency is the leu (plural lei), divided into 100
bani. Leu notes come in denominations of 500, 200, 100, 50,
10, 5 and 1. These are supplemented by 50, 10 and 5 bani
coins. 1 is currently worth 4.52 lei. The best place to get
your hands on Romanian money is at an ATM. If you have to
change cash, do it inside a bank. Credit and debit cards (Mas-
terCard and Visa) are accepted almost everywhere. American
Express and Diners Club cards are less widely accepted.
POLITICS
Since the bloody revolution of December 1989, Romania
has been a parliamentary democracy. Of sorts. The Head
of State is the president (currently Traian Basescu, who has
been in oce since 2004), elected for ve year terms. The
president may serve no more than two terms of oce.
Suspended twice by parliament, Basescu has survived two
A BRIEF HISTORY OF
BUCHAREST (1)
Bucharest is a relatively new city: mention of it is not
made until 1459, as one of the residences of Vlad III (the
Impaler), ruler of Wallachia. The exact origins of the city
are therefore unknown. Folklore has it that a shepherd,
Bucur, founded the city, but a more likely candidate is
Radu Voda (also known as Radu Negru), ruler of Wal-
lachia from c. 1290-1300.
It was under Vlad the Impaler that the city grew to any
real size, when it became the preferred site of the Wal-
lachian court. This was based in what is today known
as the Old Town, around the Curtea Veche. The city was
sacked for the rst time in 1476, by the Moldavian ruler
Stephen the Great (Stefan cel Mare), and again by the
Turks in 1554. During Mihai Bravus uprising against the
Turks in 1594, Bucharest was all but destroyed in heavy
ghting. It was not until the reign of Wallachian prince
Matei Basarab in the 1640s that the city fully recovered,
and the princely court rebuilt. Sacked again in 1655 (by
the Transylvanians) Bucharest suered plague and fam-
ine for much of the rest of the 1600s.
It was the accession to the Wallachian throne of Con-
stantin Brancoveanu in 1688 which changed Bucha-
rests fortunes. Brancoveanu negotiated alliances with
the Hapsburgs and Russians - keeping the Turks at bay -
while overseeing a cultural renaissance at home. It was
during his reign that the Brancovenesc-style - a mix of
the Renaissance and the Byzantine, so popular with the
citys architects for centuries after - rst appeared.
The Turks nally got the better of Brancoveanu in 1714:
ordered to Constantinople to account for himself he was
beheaded by Sultan Ahmed III. No longer trusting lo-
cal Wallachian princes to serve their interests, the Turks
instead appointed a long line of Greek administrators
to rule the principality. Known as the Phanariots (they
came from the Greek district of Constantinople, Phanar)
they would rule over Bucharest until 1821. During this
time the city grew in size and importance, despite regu-
lar disasters: there were major earthquakes in 1802, 1804
and 1812, while plague returned in 1813-14. As many as
40,000 people died in Wallachia during the plague.
While still nominally a Turkish province, the Peace of
Adrianople which ended the Russo-Turkish war of
1828-9 left Wallachia (and Bucharest with it) under Rus-
sian occupation. Fortunately, the general the Russians
appointed to govern Bucharest, Pavel Kisele, was an
enlightened man who during his 14 years in charge of
the city (1829-1843) oversaw sweeping changes. He
carved out new boulevards (one of which, Sos. Kisele,
today carries his name), introduced running water and
a sewerage system, built schools and hospitals and
centralised the citys chaotic re-ghting service.
A BRIEF HISTORY OF
BUCHAREST (2)
In January 1859, at the Hotel Concordia on Strada
Smardan, Wallachias nascent parliament elected Alex-
andru Ioan Cuza as the principalitys new ruler. Given
that the Moldovian parliament had elected the same
man to be their leader a few days before, the vote at the
Concordia in eect created the rst state of Romania.
Nevertheless, it would be another 19 years (and require
another Russo-Turkish War) before Romania was ocial-
ly able to declare itself independent of Turkey, in 1878.
Bucharest grew - and ourished - during the reign of
Carol I (1866-1914), Romanias rst king. Electricity was
introduced in 1882, and the city hosted a grand exhibi-
tion, Romania in the World, in 1906. The Carol Park in
southern Bucharest was built to host the fair.
During the 1920s and 1930s Bucharest was one of Eu-
ropes most dynamic, and architecturally avant-garde cit-
ies. Large numbers of art deco buildings were construct-
ed around the city. The Lido and Ambassador hotels on
Bulevardul Magheru, as well as the Telephone Palace on
Calea Victoriei are just three examples of this new wave.
Bucharest was heavily bombed during the latter part of
World War II, but in comparison with much of Europe,
the city was relatively unscathed. The communist au-
thorities therefore initially made their mark on the city
not by rebuilding it but by greatly extending it. The rst
major project was the district of Bucurestii Noi, construct-
ed at the beginning of the 1950s. It was followed by the
vast housing estates of Militari and Titan: huge dormito-
ries for workers shipped in from the countryside to sta
the newly created industrial platforms of Industriilor,
Republica and IMGB. The citys population doubled from
900,000 at the end of World War II to 1.8 million in 1980.
In 1977 the biggest earthquake in the citys history
killed more than 1,500 people. Many buildings were
destroyed or damaged beyond repair, and Romanias
leader Nicolae Ceausescu took the opportunity to re-
model the city in his own vision. By 1989 almost a fth
of Bucharest had been destroyed to make way for the
new Centru Civic, the centrepiece of which was Casa
Poporului, today known as Palatul Parlamentului.
Bucharest was the scene of the heaviest ghting dur-
ing the Romanian Revolution of 1989, most of which
centred on Piata Revolutiei, Piata Universitatii, the TVR
building and Otopeni Airport.
Since the revolution Bucharest has continued to grow,
although much of that growth has been outside the city
limits. The population of the city proper in fact peaked in
2000, at 2.3 million: it is ocially now down to 1.9 million
(2011 census).
impeachment referendums, but his second term in oce
nally ends this year. The election to choose his successor
will be held over two rounds at the end of November. Roma-
nians will also go to the polls in June, to vote in elections for
the European Parliament. A referendum on a new constitu-
tion will be held at the same time.
Executive power in Romania is held by the govern-
ment, led by the prime minister, currently Victor Ponta.
Ponta, the leader of the socialist PSD, has been in post (as
the head of no fewer than four dierent governments) since
May 2012.
TOILETS
The only decent public toilets in town are those at Gara de
Nord (for which you have to pay, 1 leu). You will nd free por-
taloos around the city but these should be used only by the
very desperate. Otherwise, nd the nearest McDonalds and
make use of their loos. Note, however, that entrance to some
McDonalds toilets in Bucharest is protected with a four-digit
code, which you will get when you buy something.
A WORD FROM THE MAYOR
I am one of the over two million
inhabitants of Bucharest. This is
where I was born, and where I grew
up. I know both the bright and dark
sides of every nook and cranny. I
have learned the history of each
stone, and experienced romance
while wandering in Herastrau Park
or admiring the city by night.
I have travelled a lot, but I have always come back
home with innite joy in order to discover my Bucharest
over and over again. I am sure that there would have
been no better place in Romania to build my medical
career, with all the professional and academic opportu-
nities that a capital city like Bucharest can oer. Yet I un-
derstood that for everything you get in this life you have
to give something back. That is why now, as the Mayor of
Bucharest, I commit myself to giving the people of this
city a place to live in, not just a place to dwell in.
Bucharest is Romanias most important cultural,
economic, nancial and political centre. It generates
more than 20 per cent of the countrys GDP and is
inhabited by more than 10 per cent of the Romanian
population. All major nancial and political institutions
are based here.
As one of 28 European capitals, Bucharest is ea-
ger to share its cultural heritage with the community
and the whole world. I therefore invite you to explore
this wonderful city, to discover its mystery and take its
pulse: Bucharest is always ready to surprise and impress
its guests with its eternal and motley poetry.
Sorin Oprescu, Mayor of Bucharest
WHEN THINGS GO WRONG
In an emergency call 112. You do not need to use the
city code. You will be asked which service you require
(Politia/Police, Ambulanta/Ambulance or Pomp-
ierii/Firemen). Emergency call centre operators should
speak English or French but in our experience they do
not always do so. At least make sure you know the
name of the street you are calling from. If you get into
trouble with the Police, demand to call your embassy.
There is a list on page 90. The citys main police station
is at (B-4) Str. Lascar Cartagiu 22, tel. (+4) 021 212 56 84.
The best Casualty Unit (Emergency Room) in the city
is at Spitalul de Urgente, (C-3) Calea Floreasca 8, next to
Dinamo Stadium. There is a list of Pharmacies on pag-
es 92-93, and an English speaking Dentist on page 90.
Culture & Events Listings
Bucharest In Your Pocket is the citys best source of listings
of rock and pop concerts, opera and ballet, special events,
club nights and exhibitions. We welcome submissions, so
if you have an event you want to publicise, however big or
small, you can do so here: absolutely free. Send details of
your event to [email protected].
CINEMAS
Bucharest has a number of good cinemas, from big multi-
plexes in the shopping malls to small, musty, independent
cinemas in the city centre. Films in Romania are shown in
their original language with Romanian subtitles. The excep-
tions are animated lms: these are usually dubbed into Ro-
manian, although in larger multiplexes you may also nd an
original language version. The key words to look for are dub-
lat (dubbed) and subtitrat (subtitled). To nd out which lms
are showing, check the listings at the website cinemagia.ro
CINEMA PRO City centre, one-screen cinema behind
Universitate, which shows the latest releases, with the lm
changing each Friday. Seats are comfy, sightlines are good
and ticket prices cheap.QC-5, Str. Ion Ghica 3, MUni-
versitate, tel. (+4) 031 824 13 60, www.cinemapro.ro.
Tickets 13-22 lei.
HOLLYWOOD MULTIPLEX The best complex of cin-
emas in the city, oering ten screens, good popcorn and
comfortable seats.QE-7, Calea Vitan 55-59 (Bucuresti
Mall), tel. (+4) 021 327 70 20/(+4) 021 327 70 21, www.
hmultiplex.ro. Tickets 17.40 - 32 lei.
LIVE MUSIC: APRIL
4 April - Kraak & Smaak @ Club Colectiv
4 April - The Pistols @ Mojo
4 April - Speak Floyd @ Puzzle
5 April - Alexandrina @ Sala Radio
5 April - Jaya the Cat @ Fabrica
7 April - Watain & Degial @ Club Colectiv
10 April - Dhafer Youssef @ Sala Radio
10 April - Taxi @ Hard Rock Cafe
11 April - Smiley @ True Club
12 April - God Is An Astronaut @ Fabrica
12 April - Iyeoka @ Hard Rock Cafe
13 April - Divna @ Ateneu Roman
16 April - British Legends Night (The Troggs, The
Animals, The Yardbirds & Mungo Jerry) @ Sala
Palatului
24 April - Bosquito @ Hard Rock Cafe
24 April - Valerinne & Keira is You @ Club Control
25 April - Armada Night Live @ Arenele Romane
25 April - Dope D. O. D. @ Turbohalle
26 April - Thomas Azier @ Club Colectiv
26 April - Stars of Romanian Rock (Cristi Mincules-
cu, Nutu Olteanu, Ovidiu Ioncu Kempes and many
more) @ Arenele Romane
27 April - Florian Pittis Tribute Concert (featuring
Mircea Baniciu, Mircea Vintil, Ducu Bertzi and
many others) @ Parcul Titan
29 April - Amon Amarth @ Arenele Romane
IMAX/CINEMA CITY
The only IMAX cinema in Romania, part of the enormous
Cinema City complex in the Cotroceni Palace shopping
centre.QB-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul Timisoara, MPo-
litehnica, tel. (+4) 021 407 00 00, www.afcotroceni.ro.
Tickets 15-37.50 lei.
Sex Pistols tribute act The Pistols play Mojo on April 4th.
Culture & Events Listings Culture & Events Listings
CLASSICAL MUSIC CONCERTS
April Venue
4 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC BRAHMS Ateneu Roman Sala Mare
5 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC BRAHMS Ateneu Roman Sala Mare
8 19:00 CHAMBER RECITAL HAYDN, BERLIOZ, DINESCU Ateneu Roman Sala Mare
8 19:00 CELLO RECITAL GLIERE, POPPER, SOLLIMA Ateneu Roman Sala Mica
9 19:00 RADIO CHAMBER ORCHESTRA VIVALDI, MERCADENTE Sala Radio
10 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC BEETHOVEN, MAHLER Ateneu Roman Sala Mare
11 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC BEETHOVEN, MAHLER Ateneu Roman Sala Mare
11 19:00 NATIONAL RADIO ORCHESTRA BACH Sala Radio
15 19:00 FLORIN MITREA (PIANO) DEBUSSY, LISZT, SCHUBERT, PROKOFIEV Ateneu Roman Sala Mica
17 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC & CHOIR KORNGOLD, DAVID Ateneu Roman Sala Mare
23 19:00 HORIA MIHAIL (PIANO) MOZART Sala Radio
24 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC & CHOIR MENDELSSOHN Ateneu Roman Sala Mare
24 19:00 BRANCUSI TRIO ENESCU, FRANCK Sala Radio
25 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC & CHOIR MENDELSSOHN Ateneu Roman Sala Mare
25 19:00 HORIA MIHAIL (PIANO) MOZART Sala Radio
26 19:00 RADIO CHILDRENS CHOIR ROMANAN ROOTS Sala Radio
29 19:00 CHAMBER RECITAL BACH, KARG-ELERT Ateneu Roman Sala Mica
30 19:00 RADIO CHAMBER ORCHESTRA HAYDN, WAGNER, MOZART Sala Radio
May
1 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC & CHOIR GRIEG, SCHUBERT Ateneu Roman Sala Mare
2 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC & CHOIR GRIEG, SCHUBERT Ateneu Roman Sala Mare
7 19:00 CHAMBER RECITAL BRADE, BACH, GIULIANI, PAGANINI Sala Radio
8 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC RAVEL Ateneu Roman Sala Mare
8 19:00 ANDREEA BUTNARU (PIANO) SCHUMANN, BARTOK, SHOSTAKOVICH Sala Radio
9 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC RAVEL Ateneu Roman Sala Mare
9 19:00 NATIONAL RADIO ORCHESTRA BEETHOVEN Sala Radio
14 19:00 RADIO CHAMBER ORCHESTRA MOZART, SAINT-SAENS, MOZART Sala Radio
15 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC GRIEG, MOZART, BEETHOVEN Ateneu Roman Sala Mare
16 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC GRIEG, MOZART, BEETHOVEN Ateneu Roman Sala Mare
16 19:00 NATIONAL RADIO ORCHESTRA BEETHOVEN, RAVEL Sala Radio
21 19:00 RADIO BIG BAND CONDUCTED BY IONEL TUDOR Sala Radio
22 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC MAHLER Ateneu Roman Sala Mare
23 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC MAHLER Ateneu Roman Sala Mare
23 19:00 NATIONAL RADIO ORCHESTRA BEETHOVEN, MENDELSSOHN Sala Radio
28 19:00 RADIO CHAMBER ORCHESTRA TARANU, DEDIU, LUTOWLOWSKI Sala Radio
29 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC SHOSTAKOVICH Ateneu Roman Sala Mare
29 19:00 SIMN 2014: RADIO CHAMBER CHOIR Sala Radio
30 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC SHOSTAKOVICH Ateneu Roman Sala Mare
30 19:00 NATIONAL RADIO ORCHESTRA GLODEANU, VIERU, ROUSE Sala Radio
OPERA & BALLET LISTINGS
All performances take place at the Romanian
National Opera. See foot of the page for details.
April
Opera
8 11:00 HANSEL & GRETEL CHILDRENS OPERA
11 19:00 AIDA GIUSEPPE VERDI
25 19:00 OTHELLO GIUSEPPE VERDI
26 19:00 LA BOHEME GIACOMO PUCCINI
Ballet & Contemporary Dance
4 19:00 DON QUIXOTE LUDWIG MINKUS
6 19:00
TANGO: RADION & JULIET
EDWARD CLUG
13 19:00
ANNA KARENINA
PYOTR ILYICH TCHAIKOVSKY
26 19:00 LE CORSAIRE ADOLPHE ADAM
30 19:00 BAIADERA LUDWIG MINKUS
May
Opera
4 18:30 OEDIPUS IGOR STRAVINSKY
7 19:00 RIGOLETTO GIUSEPPE VERDI
14 11:00 PUSS IN BOOTS CHILDRENS OPERA
16 19:00 DON GIOVANNI W. A. MOZART
17 19:00 LA TRAVIATA GIUSEPPE VERDI
23 18:30 LOHENGRIN RICHARD WAGNER
24 19:00
THE MARRIAGE OF FIGARO
W. A. MOZART
29 19:00
MADAME BUTTERFLY
GIACOMO PUCCINI
Ballet
11 19:00
SWAN LAKE
25 19:00
SWAN LAKE
ROMANIAN NATIONAL OPERA Bucharests el-
egant opera house (whose exterior is currently being
spruced up) was built in the early 1950s. Productions
here are invariably excellent, and prices are relatively
cheap.QA-5, B-dul Kogalniceanu 70-72, MEroilor,
tel. (+4) 021 314 69 80, www.operanb.ro. Box ofce
open 09:00-13:00, 15:00-19:00.
LIVE MUSIC: MAY
7 May - Al Bano @ Sala Palatului
8 May - Peter Gabriel @ Romexpo
8 May - Zdob si Zdub @ Hard Rock Cafe
9 May - 3 Sud Est @ Sala Palatului
13 May - Dog Eat Dog @ Club Colectiv
13 May - Maria Nazionale @ Sala Palatului
14 May - Mircea Baniciu @ Sala Polivalenta
15 May - Kyla La Grange @ The Silver Church
15 May - Mariza @ Sala Palatului
15 May - Cargo @ Hard Rock Cafe
16 May - Krypton @ Music Club
23 May - Arch Enemy @ Turbohalle
29 May - Vama @ Hard Rock Cafe
30 May - Yanni @ Sala Palatului
Besides the gigs listed here look out too for regular live
music at Mojo in the Old Town (p.74) which hosts top
local bands alongside its resident Mojo Band. Sankt
Petersburg (p.73) opposite also has live music a cou-
ple of times per week, while Club A (p.75) is another
decent bet. Outside of the Old Town, Hard Rock Cafe
(p.28), Control (p.49) and Panic (p.50) are known for
their range of live music, while Kulturhaus (p.50) simi-
larly has live bands on most evenings. For live jazz, try
Big Mamou (p.77). At Divan (p.59) there is live oriental
music and dancing, and a Turkish DJ, every Friday and
Saturday night at 21:30.
TICKETS
Tickets for most of the concerts listed here can be usu-
ally be bought from the venues themselves (opera and
classical concert tickets have to purchased from the
relevant venues) or from the ticket resellers listed here.
The websites myticket.ro, bilete.ro and vreaubilet.ro.
BILETOO.RO
Buy tickets online at biletoo.ro or at the various outlets
around the city: the most central is in Unirea, on the
ground oor just inside the entrance next to McDon-
alds.QC-6, Piata Unirii 1 (Unirea Shopping Centre),
MPiata Unirii, www.biletoo.ro.
DIVERTA MUSIC & FILM
Sells tickets for most Bucharest concerts and events.
The most central branch is on the third oor of Unirea
Shopping Centre.QC-6, Piata Unirii 1 (Unirea Shop-
ping Centre), MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 031 805 65 33,
www.diverta.net. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Culture & Events Listings
BUCHAREST WITH CHILDREN
The rst stop for families visiting Bucharest should
probably be the outstanding Village Museum (p.52).
Children love it, as they can scurry around the houses,
explore and generally be kids without worrying too
much about grump security guards telling them o.
The confectionery stand at the entrance selling tasty
Romanian sweets helps too. The Peasant Museum
(p.52) will please older children, especially those who
want to nd out a little about Romanian history (and
note that the Clubul Taranului, around the back of the
museum, has puppet shows most weekend mornings
at 10:30am and 12pm). The Grigore Antipa Natural
History Museum is another sure-re hit for kids, while
the curious little place that is the National Technical
Museum at the entrance to Parcul Carol may be old
fashioned and a bit dusty, but kids love it, as it is packed
with models and exhibits of things which are right up
their street: trains, cars, engines, jet packs, planes and
such like.
Bucharests zoo on Aleea Priveghetorilor is better than
it has been for years. It has a ne collection of exotic
birds, and it is a good half-day out. Entrance costs 13
lei for adults, 6.50 lei for kids. The zoo is open daily from
09:00-17:00. And then of course there are the parks.
Cismigiu (B-5) and Herastrau (A/B-2) are the best and
most central, but Tineretului (take the metro to Tiner-
etului), with its fabulous playgrounds, is also worth ex-
ploring. An excellent indoor playground can be found
at Funland Romania: a cracking place to take the kids
on days when it rains. Featuring perhaps the biggest
indoor playground we have seen (15 lei Mon-Fri, 20 lei
Sat, Sun), bowling, billiards, arcade games and plenty
of space for Mums and Dads to relax and have coee
in, it is a weekend-must. Find it on the fourth oor of
the Unirea Shopping Centre in (C-6) Piata Unirii. There
is also a very good playground and year-round indoor
skating rink at the AFI Palace shopping centre.
For kids who want to swim there is Daimon, a good
sports club in Parcul Tineretului, where under ves
swim for free. There are also pools open to the public
at most of the ve-star hotels.
Most restaurants in Bucharest are child-friendly, even
if the amount of smoke in some of them means that
you will probably not want to enter with kids. Those
deserving a special mention include the big hotels - all
of which have kids entertainers during their fabulous
brunches - the Hard Rock Cafe: always happy to see
kids and which is packed with them at weekends, Phill
which has a playground, Osho and Vacamuu, all of
which have a great kids menu: some oer kids activi-
ties at weekend lunchtimes.
VENUES
ATHENEUM (ATENEU ROMN)
The most beautiful building in Romania plays host to
the George Enescu Philharmonic Orchestra as well as a
wide range of other top performers. The acoustics are
brilliantQC-5, Str. Franklin 1-3, MUniversitate, www.
fge.org.ro. Box Ofce Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 16:00
- 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 11:00, 16:00-19:00. Closed Mon.
ARENELE ROMANE QB-7, Str. Cutitul de Argint
26 (Parcul Carol), MEroii Revolutiei.
CLUB COLECTIV QC-7, Str. Tabacarilor 7, www.
colectiv.ro.
CLUB CONTROL QC-5, Str. Constantin Mille
4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0733 92 78 61, www.
control-club.ro.
HARD ROCK CAFE The home of the best burger
in Bucharest doubles up as one of the citys top live
music venues.QA-2, Sos. Kiselef 32, tel. (+4) 021 206
62 61, www.hardrock.com/bucharest. Open 12:00 -
24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.
MOJO MUSIC CLUBQC-6, Str. Gabroveni 14,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0760 26 34 96, www.
mojomusic.ro.
MUSIC CLUBQC-6, Str. Baratiei 31, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 0720 88 71 15, www.music-club.ro. Open
22:00 - 04:00.
ROMEXPOQB-dul Mrsti 65-67, tel. (+4) 021 207
70 00, www.romexpo.org.
SALA PALATULUI QB-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 28,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 73 72. Box Ofce
Open Tue-Fri 10:00-19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
SALA POLIVALENTA QB-dul Tineretului 1 (Parc
Tineretului/Calea Piscului 10), MTineretului, tel.
(+4) 031 425 78 01, www.salapolivalenta.ro.
SALA RADIO The National Radio Orchestra is one
of the best in the country and has its very own music
hall in the radio building.QB-5, Str. Berthelot 60-64,
tel. (+4) 021 314 77 70, www.srr.ro. Box ofce open
09:00-18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The box ofce remains
open until 20:00 on concert evenings.
SILVER CHURCHQA-5, Calea Plevnei 61, MIzvor,
tel. (+4) 0723 37 90 26, www.tscarena.ro.
TURBOHALLEQB-dul Iuliu Maniu 220B, MPacii,
tel. (+4) 0733 106 064, www.turbohalle.ro.
Restaurants
AMERICAN
CHAMPIONS Still serving one of the very best burgers in
Bucharest (you can choose one or design your own from
an endless choice of toppings), a fact undisputed by any-
one weve ever met. It is also one of the biggest. In fact,
now we think of it, the portions of everything here are
enormous: even the childrens servings are very healthy
indeed. Besides the burgers you will nd a great selection
of American pub food, as well as Tex Mex treats and even
some more rened, slow food options. Famously good
cocktails, and more televisions showing sport than you
could ever hope for. Find it in the Marriott: up the stairs as
you go in and to your right.QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie
90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021
403 19 17, www.championsrestaurant.ro. Open 12:00 -
24:00. . PTLSW
HARD ROCK CAFE One of the largest Hard Rocks in Eu-
rope, you cant go wrong here, whatever time of day you
visit. Come for lunch with the kids (who are always well
looked after, and have their own menu), dinner with the
crowd from work or late drinks and live music with your
mates. All things to all people the burgers and ribs are a
cut above the usual, desserts are as outsized and sweet as
they should be, and the service comes from smiley wait-
resses and expert bar sta. We love it. Lets rock.QA-2, Sos.
Kiselef 32, tel. (+4) 021 206 62 61, www.hardrock.com/
bucharest. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.
. PLESW
ASIAN
THE GANG RESTAURANT The Gang has moved to a
new location - closer to the centre of town than before
- and is, dare we say it, better than ever. The food - a genu-
ine fusion of avours - is sensational in every way: inven-
tion, taste, presentation and quality of ingredients. The
jumbo prawns with cauliower for example: where else
will you nd such a combination in this town? The place
itself is nicely done out: we loved the white wooden oors
in particular. Top selection of wines too, courtesy of Ethic
Wine.QStr. Alecu Russo 4, tel. (+4) 0721 51 22 91. Open
12:00 - 03:00. . PLESW
BRITISH
THE TRAFALGAR PUB Popular with all sorts of expats
who have a regular rendezvous here, this place is a pub
and bistro in one, where you can get a decent meal for
little money while enjoying usually decent company. The
menu has a few British dishes - we can recommend the
Spinach and Stilton Pie - but best of all we like the ciorba
de vacuta - one of the best in the city, and the ciolan cu
varza - pork knuckle with cabbage and beans. Guinness on
draught at a decent price. Accepts Amex: not everywhere
in Bucharest does.QC-4, Str. David Emmanuel 4A, tel.
(+4) 021 211 31 51, www.trafalgarpub.eu. Open 12:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PLVESW
Restaurants Restaurants
BUCHAREST BURGERS
Bucharest has gone burger crazy over the past year or
so, and no, we are not referring to McDonalds or such
like. Instead, what we are talking about here are gourmet
burgers, made with only the very best beef, cooked to
order and served with top quality bread and trimmings,
be it French blue cheese or Danish bacon. There are now
more than a dozen places serving gourmet burgers in
this city, and while a couple of places probably just about
stand out as being the best of the best (the Hard Rock
Cafe and the Cafe Athenee: would any readers beg to
dier?) we can guarantee that all of those we list here will
serve you nothing less than a rst class burger: Burger
Bar (p.65), Cafe Athenee (Athenee Palace Hilton, p.39),
Champions (JW Marriott, p.28), Embassy (p.31), Hard
Rock Cafe (p.28), The Harp (p.48), Osho (p.44), The
Pub (p.73), Vacamuu (p.44).
CHINESE
ORASUL INTERZIS Bucharests rst upmarket Chinese
restaurant combines all the cuisines of that great country
and delivers them to your plate with real aplomb. The
menu is adventurous and features all sorts of dishes, such
as the rst class gong bau duck, the seafood nest and the
spicy crab. To get the best out of this place though round
up three friends and go for one of the set menus. Tremen-
dous value.QD-5, Str. Silvestru 3, tel. (+4) 031 425 47 47/
(+4) 0720 99 33 33, www.orasul-interzis.ro. Open 12:30
- 24:00. Last food order 23:00. . PVSW
RESTAURANT NAN JING Dating back to 1980 this little
piece of Bucharest history was the rst Chinese restaurant in
the land. It is still one of the best, as its longevity (no mean
feat in a city where good eateries come and go fast) testies.
Prices are reasonable, the setting is good, with a nice cov-
ered terrace overlooking busy Bulevardul Lascar Cartagiu.
On weekday afternoons from 14:00-17:00 their Happy Lunch
oers a 50 per cent discount.QB-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu
2-4 (Minerva Hotel), MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 318 12
85, www.restaurantnanjing.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
PLVBSW
FINE DINING
AD HOC BISTRO Fine dining at a more than reason-
able price at the top end of Calea Victoriei. The venue is
contemporary, the design minimalist and the food is a
rather delicious mix of the old and new: modern twists of
classic dishes which always includes a good range of fresh
seafood and sh. The menu is as the name suggests: ad
hoc, and is chalked up on a blackboard daily. The smart,
ecient waiters then quite literally bring the blackboard
to your table. Its a nice touch and very bistro-esque. Well
worth a visit.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 214, tel. (+4) 0770 21
42 14. Open 09:00 - 23:30. . PSW
VERANDA CASA FRUMOASA
Simply put, this one of the top ve restaurants in Bucharest.
Combining a contemporary setting with ne food, this is
a gourmets delight. The frequently changing menu is a
mix of cuisines and avours and always - no matter how
often you come - features something new and exciting to
try. The conservatory-esque setting is terric, and there
are outstanding wines and champagnes to complement
the food.QB-4, Str. Clopotarii Vechi 5, MPiata Victoriei,
tel. (+4) 0733 73 59 32, www.verandacasafrumoasa.ro.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. . PLSW
FOOD & DRINK
18 LOUNGE Lunch or dinner with a view? This is the
place to come people. On the 18th oor of one of the tall-
est oce buildings in the city, this place doesnt need to
serve decent food to attract clients: fortunately, it does.
More than just a restaurant the lunch is a great deal, and
late in the evening it becomes a smooth, relaxed pace to
hang out. It is also a self-declared anti-tze establishment
(much like its sister locations in the centre of town) and
the vibe is always a little trendy but never kitsch. We like
it.QA-1, P-ta Presei Libere 3-5, tel. (+4) 0733 50 14 01,
www.18lounge.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 -
24:30. . PLW
EMBASSY Popular with a wealthy crowd, the central and
original Embassy has been around a few years now, and in
this city longevity alone is a sign of how good it is. Serving
a good gourmet burger - widely regarded as one of the
citys best - and much else besides (including some great
cocktails) it is the kind of place that grows on you as the
evening wears on, and in all likeliness you will stay until
very late. We usually do.QC-4, P-ta Lahovari 8, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 0733 50 03 00, www.embassy-club.
ro. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Mon 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 -
03:00. . SW
LA BELLE EPOQUE A big, bright and open-plan Belgian
beer cafe on Radu Beller in Dorobanti. There are plenty of
Belgian beers on oer - with Stella, Lee and Hoegaarden
available on tap - as well as more than a few nice Belgian
touches in and around the bar. While the food is more
local than Belgian, it is very good, with lots of seasonal
specials, and something of a legendary dessert menu.
QB-2, Str. Radu Beller 6, tel. (+4) 021 230 07 70, www.
labelleepoque.ro. Open 11:30 - 24:00. Last orders 23:00.
. PIBW
REOPENS IN MAY
THE GARDEN
First-class terrace to the right of the big hotel. Its some-
thing of an oasis of greenery in the middle of busy Bucha-
rest, and there is plenty of room, making it just right for
afternoons and evenings with family or friends. Relax and
enjoy the rather special homemade ice tea and barbeque
food while the kids play in the childrens corner: there are
all sorts of toys to keep them entertained. We should add
that the service is good, and the prices are more than af-
fordable.QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott
Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 19, www.
championsrestaurant.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. In case
of bad weather, Champions (inside the hotel) will be
happy to welcome you. . TULBSW
THE HARBOUR A top location in Piata Amzei. The at-
mosphere is relaxing, the food better than average, and
there is a great view to the market. We came here for lunch
recently and were stunned by how many foreigners were
eating here: it must be one of the most popular tourist and
visitor spots in town.QB-4, P-ta Amzei 10-22, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 021 319 72 57, www.harbour.ro. Open
11:30 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. . PLVSW
FRENCH
BOUTIQUE DU PAIN Everything you want from a city-
centre eatery and a lot more. This is in fact more bistro than
anything, serving breakfast, lunch and evening meals in
fresh, bright surroundings. The selection of morning pas-
tries is the best in the city, with oce workers going out of
their way to stop here for fresh supplies. For lunch there
is a range of sandwiches hard to beat anywhere else, and
the small selection of hot meals of an evening - the menu
changes daily - are perfect for a casual dinner.QC-5, Str.
Academiei 28-30, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 44 33
00, www.boutiquedupain.com. Open 08:30 - 22:00,
Sun 8:30 - 20:00. . PSW
ESCARGOT BISTRO A little non-descript from the out-
side, it is a sensational French restaurant where the love
and care the chef has for his food oozes onto your plate.
Duck that takes 48 hours to prepare, an onion soup of the
like weve never eaten in Bucharest, fresh snails, outstand-
ing wines and all served in minimalist surroundings: the
food is king here. Lovely terrace.QD-4, Str. Toamnei 101,
tel. (+4) 0746 79 50 29, www.escargot.ro. Open 17:00 -
24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. . SW
FRENCH BAKERY LE RESTAURANT The menu fea-
tures a number of simple, new-wave French dishes which -
for this city - are very well-priced. Excellent wine list which,
while featuring a great selection of French wines, for once
acknowledges that the New World can make a decent
grape too. In short, this place is worthy of your time.QC-5,
Str. Nicolae Golescu 17, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021
310 33 02, www.frenchbakery.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
. PESW
ICI ET LA As regular readers will know we are suckers for
an open kitchen, and that is what we have here: sit and
watch the chef and owner prepare your gorgeous home-
made French meal. They are rather proud of their smoked
salmon here (and rightly so) and the wine list features
plenty of aordable grape. Top it all o with the creme bru-
lee.QC-4, Str. Mendeleev 43, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4)
0731 45 36 08/(+4) 0731 35 26 08, www.icietla.ro. Open
10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. . PVEBSW
ICONIC FOOD WINE & DESIGN BY CAMELIA
SUCU This place is the work of David Contant, a chef for
whom no Bucharest foodie will need an introduction: he
has been creating consistently brilliant food for years. This
latest Contant creation is indeed an icon in the making,
an eatery in the middle of a design showroom for which
he has teamed up with local entrepreneur Camelia Sucu.
Expect superb, beautifully presented and supremely
healthy food, served in an environment which implores
you stick around and indulge a little. Theres a wine bar
on the premises too, whose stock is one of the citys best.
QB-3, Aleea Alexandru 7, tel. (+4) 0720 33 35 50, www.
iconic-fwd.ro. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
. PLSW
LA CANTINE DE NICOLAI Those who know their food
know that this place is one of the top ten restaurants in
the land. This is French du terroir, where simple yet perfect
avours are allowed to breathe by a gifted chef who cooks
for his customers as though he is cooking for his best
mates. It is not cheap, but then dishes like scallops with
mash potatoes and a true and veal sauce never can be.
Special.QB-4, Str. Povernei 15-17, MPiata Romana, tel.
(+4) 0725 21 06 08, www.lacantinedenicolai.ro. Open
12:00 - 23:00. . PSW
LATELIER The restaurant at the Hotel Epoque is as ne
and elegant as the hotel itself. This is a restaurant where art
means putting together original dishes of the highest order,
all prepared by the amazing head chef. American Black Angus
beef cooked in a Cabernet sauce and served with potato and
back true puree: you will not nd such things on too many
menus in Bucharest. For those of you who like your desserts,
the lemon cake with caremelized meringue and homemade
ice cream is a dream come true. Add in an ambience which is
classy, outstanding service and you have one of the citys nest
dining experiences.QB-5, Str. Intrarea Aurora 17C (Epoque
Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 312 32 32, www.latelier-restaurant.ro.
Open 12:00 23:00. . PLBSW
GERMAN
DIE DEUTSCHE KNEIPE Really, one of our favourite
places in Bucharest, now as ever (and it has been around
for more than 15 years). Serving giant portions of great
German sausages (all made on the premises) as well as
pork knuckles, kraut and the like, they keep the prices
down and their punters very happy. You usually need a
reservation at weekends. Good place for a simple pint of
German beer too.QC-3, Str. Stockholm 9, tel. (+4) 021
233 94 62, www.diedeutschekneipe.ro. Open 15:00 -
23:00, Sat 14:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. . PNSW
INDIAN
HAVELI Convincingly authentic Indian cuisine served in
a brightly decorated villa, where the sauces are by nature
toned down for locals but where chef will - with pleasure
- spice things up for the more experienced Indian diner.
We like the long list of vegetarian dishes, of which the
Bhangan Bharta (aubergine with tomato and onion) is a
particular favourite. The onion bhajis are good too, while
the lamb rogan josh never fails to hit the spot. Does home
delivery too.QD-4, Str. Episcop Radu 3, tel. (+4) 021 211
03 90/(+4) 0721 72 16 40, [email protected], www.
haveli.ro. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon 19:00 - 23:00. .
PLVSW
KARISHMA
A good Indian-in-Bucharest option where the menu
boasts no fewer than 10 lamb dishes: a rare treat in these
parts where the raw material is so hard to nd. There is
much more besides of course, including an extensive
range of vegetarian food, and the chefs will happily
tone down (or up) all dishes according to your spice tol-
erance levels. The place itself is nice and the sta know
their stu.QD-5, Str. Iancu Capitanu 36, tel. (+4) 021
252 51 57, www.karishma.ro. Open 13:00 - 24:00. .
PVEBSW
INTERNATIONAL
BARBIZON STEAK HOUSE
Found at the Pullman, this is probably the best eatery
weve been to so far at this particular top-notch hotel. As
you would expect, steaks top the bill, and what steaks!
All the beef is shipped in fresh from South America, and
though prices reect the quality you will not argue at the
end of the evening. Good wine list (we like the inclusion of
Moldovan wines) and an open kitchen is always welcome.
Great steak-based Saturday brunch: La Boucherie.QA-1,
P-ta Montreal 10 (Pullman Bucharest World Trade Cen-
ter), tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00, www.pullmanhotels.com.
Open 12:00 - 15:30, 18:00 - 23:30. Saturday Brunch
11:30-15:30, 190 lei/pers, 90 lei children. Kids under 10
free. . PLW
BARKA SAFFRON We have been coming here since
the last century, when there was precious little choice in
Bucharest for people wanting something a little dierent;
a little more spicy. Now there is plenty of choice but we
still trot up to Barka whenever we can. On our last visit we
went for the lamb with spinach in tomato sauce which was
as good as we had hoped. The onion bhajis remain Bucha-
rests best. First class cocktail list, and regular live music
and arty events. Also of note is that the owner has his
own bualo farm in Transylvania, and sells fantastic buf-
falo telemea cheese here at the restaurant.QA-2, Str. Av.
Sntescu 1, tel. (+4) 021 224 10 04. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
. ESW
BISTRO MON CHER One of those places that merits
praise simply for having been around for so long. Weve
been coming here for years, and have always loved the
welcoming atmosphere and simple, tasty bistro food.
There is something for everyone, from sandwiches for the
lunchtime crowd to good coee and even hot chocolate
for the kids. Leafy terrace in summer.QB-3, Calea Doro-
bantilor 20-28, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 211 46 98.
Open 08:00 - 06:00. . PVSW
CHEZ MARIE Popular with the crowd from the UK
embassy, including the ambassador himself, Chez Marie
serves perhaps the widest variety of dishes you are likely
to nd in a Bucharest restaurant. Both the steak with gor-
gonzola and the beef strogano are top eorts, while we
have long thought that the goulash is one of Bucharests
very best. Good drinks list and the place itself is rather nice.
QC-4, Str. Dionisie Lupu 48, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4)
031 107 20 33, www.chezmarie.ro. Open 11:00 - 24:00.
. PLSW
COLLAGE Opposite the Peasant Museum this is a de-
signer restaurant, lounge and bar which opens early
enough to be a breakfast venue for late-risers, and lets
face it, the kind of people who come here are not your
average nine to ve crowd. Its arty, its smart and it has
just the right amount of attitude. And we love the dogs on
chains outside keeping the parking spaces for the rich and
famous. Lounge that stays open until 03:00 at weekends.
QA-3, B-dul Ion Mihalache 10-12, MPiata Victoriei, tel.
(+4) 0758 10 10 40, www.collageworld.ro. Open 10:00 -
24:00. . PLEW
DACIA FELIX The Radisson Blu opens its cracking
breakfast (possibly the best in the city) to all comers:
simply turn up before 10:30, pay your money and ll up
for the day.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu),
tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-
bucharest. Open 06:30 - 10:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00.
. PLEGSW
DONCAFE BRASSERIE
Open early for breakfast (they do a decent English fry and
delicious pain chocolat) its busy throughout the day, ca-
tering to lunching ladies and business types as well as a
trendy crowd in the evenings. Great salads, a good range
of homemade pasta (and we mean homemade: it is put
together on the premises), a terric osso bucco and a divine
cheese cake are our fave dishes from the menu. You go
pick your own.QB-3, Str. Ankara 7, tel. (+4) 0746 22 24
44, www.doncafe-brasserie.ro. Open 08:30 - 24:00. .
PLSW
GARGANTUA Bright and airy place that gloriously lets
the light in through its huge windows. Fine food, includ-
ing a luscious fried brie with onion marmelade, an out-
standing chicken and artichoke salad, a couple of duck
dishes and good steaks. Prices are more than fair given the
location, setting and quality of food. Find it on the corner
of Stradas Calderon and Verona.QC-5, Str. J.L. Calderon
69, tel. (+4) 0726 55 56 93, www.restaurantgargantua.
ro. Open 09:00 - 01:00. . PVBSW
LA BRASSERIE Redesigned and reinvented, La Brasse-
rie is now less about ne dining (pop over to The Vineyard
for that) and more about good quality, simple food for all
the family. The menu is available buet-style or a-la-carte,
and makes a great choice for families or groups on the run.
The wine list remains a work of art and the atmosphere is
now cosier than ever.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafei 1 (Crowne
Plaza), tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.laveranda.ro. Open
06:00 - 24:00. Sunday Brunch 12:30 - 16:30, 177 lei/pers,
children between six and 12 years half price, children
under six free. . PEGSW
LA CONAC Weve eaten here a number of times, and on
each occasion weve left with that rather satisfying feeling
which comes from paying far less than you really ought to
for some very good food. La Conac (Conac means Manor
House in Romanian) is a warm, welcoming restaurant with
a huge variety of dishes, all of which hit the spot. Its rare
that such an ambitious menu delivers top quality consis-
tently, but La Conac pulls it o. The place itself is a delight,
set over a number of levels, with a big, popular terrace
out front in the warmer months.QD-5, B-dul Pache Pro-
topopescu 38, tel. (+4) 0737 85 11 03, www.conacul-
nobil.ro. Open 10:00 - 23:00. . PLBSW
PARIS BUCHAREST BRASSERIE The Pullmans bright
and airy brasserie is open for breakfast and lunch, and
oers a huge buet packed with more than you could
possibly eat in one setting. Very good value.QA-1, P-ta
Montreal 10 (Pullman Bucharest), tel. (+4) 021 202 16
34, www.pullmanhotels.com. Open 06:00 - 10:00, Tue-
Thu 06:00 - 10:00, 12-14:30, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 11:00. .
PLGW
PHILL Avant garde to the point of being futuristic, yet unlike
so many upmarket restaurants this one positively welcomes
families with children. Indeed, so welcome are kids that they
have play areas and people to look after the kids while you
enjoy the food. Which is another reason to come here: this is a
culinary journey around the world. Not one great cuisine has
been left out, and in our experience they get everything right.
Go for the squid ink risotto, the seafood stew and simple plea-
sure of new Zealand lamb chops.QStr. Drumul Potcoavei
120, tel. (+4) 0743 17 20 03, www.phill.ro. Open 12:00 -
24:00. Closed Mon. . PLVSW
RESTAURANT 1880 One of the best hotel-based restau-
rants in the city is this bright, smart place at theCapital Plaza.
The interiors are amongst the most striking in Bucharest, and
the food more than matches the surroundings. We adored
the celery soup with scallops, while the seafood risotto was
as good as any weve eaten in Romania. Well worth a trip.
QC-4, B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 54, MStefan cel Mare,
tel. (+4) 0372 08 00 80, www.restaurant1880.ro. Open
12:00 - 23:00. . PBSW
TEATRO Teatro is so-called because the Novotel stands on
the former site of Bucharests National Theatre, the hotels
main restaurant is open to all for breakfast, lunch or dinner.
Good, inventive food (the menu changes regularly) served in
bright, colourful surroundings, with a nice terrace.QB-4, Calea
Victoriei 37B (Novotel Bucharest City Centre), MUniversi-
tate, tel. (+4) 021 308 85 30, www.novotel.com. Open 06:00
- 23:00. Sunday Brunch 12:30 - 16:00, 190 lei/pers, free for
children under 12. . PTULGW
THE VINYARD The feather in the Crowne Plazas cap, this
is a work of great detail where everything is lovingly pre-
pared by exec chef Ashlie Dias - who has been here for years
- and his highly experienced team. Based around Mediter-
ranean cuisine you can always expect to nd something
exotic and a bit dierent on the daring menu, and a number
of the dishes require waiter or diner participation. A treat.
QA-1, B-dul Poligrafei 1 (Crowne Plaza), tel. (+4) 021 224
00 34, www.crowneplaza.ro. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. . PEW
UPTOWN BAR & GRILL Uptown indeed. In the
wealthiest part of the wealthiest part of the city, the citys
wealthiest people come here to eat. The real draw is the
enclosed terrace which means you can eat al fresco even
when its raining outside. The food is good, a mix of Italian-
esque and modern European dishes, which share a menu
with an excellent wine list. Prices not cheap but value for
money very high. Make sure you reserve well in advance
or turn up with a local celebrity if you want a table on the
terrace.QB-3, Str. Rabat 2, tel. (+4) 021 231 40 77, www.
uptown.ro. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. .
PLBSW
ITALIAN
CAFFE CITTA
Styled as a Northern Italian city centre cafe/bistro the em-
phasis here is on good, simple, urban food. Try the risotto
with saron, the saltim bocca and the tiramisu: all signature
dishes and all done to perfection. The drinks menu is a bit
special: go for the apple mojito (as delicious as it sounds)
or try any number of great wines, all available by the glass.
Keep the kids happy with the freshly made ice cream.QB-
4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021 601
34 36, www.cafe-citta.ro. Open 11:00 - 23:30. .
PLGBW
CAPRICCIOSA
A bustling Italian restaurant and pizzeria whose menu is
a veritable dictionary of pizza. They even do trues and,
lets face it, you dont see those every day on a menu in Bu-
charest. Well worth making the journey uptown for both
the food and the atmosphere, which demonstrates that
top restaurants dont have to be tze.QB-dul Ion Ionescu
de la Brad 2, tel. (+4) 021 233 06 35/(+4) 0722 22 47 99
(+) 0723 26 90 30, [email protected],
www.restaurantcapricciosa.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
PLSW
CUCINA
Bright and breezy, Cucina at the JW Marriott is a wonder-
ful Italian restaurant where you can nd probably the best
(and perhaps only) buttersh steak in the city. All of the
other ne Italian dishes are equally memorable, and note
that all of the pasta is homemade on the premises No few-
er than 26 good Italian reds grace the wine menu.QB-6,
Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand
Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 02, www.cucinarestaurant.
ro. Open 12:30 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00.
. PLESW
MODIGLIANI PASTA/CARNE Amazingly good res-
taurant. Boasting top chef Alfonso Salvaggio in the kitch-
en, there is a new menu and the Italian stakes continue
to get ratcheted up another notch, all to the benet of us
diners. All the pasta here is made fresh, the meat is the n-
est Argentine and Scottish beef or New Zealand lamb, and
the wine is a selection of the best the world has to oer.
QC-5, Str. Batistei 9 (InterContinental), MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 0730 64 48 06. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
. PLBW
NONNA MIA Looks the part, feels the part and - when
the food arrives - you will know that it tastes the part too.
Very good Italian food, from treats such as rabbit in a glo-
rious wine sauce to fresh pasta made right here on the
premises, as well as choice cuts of top imported salamis
and cheese. Good range of wines at all prices, and the ser-
vice is a cut above the Bucharest norm.QC-3, Str. Chile 10,
tel. (+4) 0728 60 22 83, www.nonnamia.ro. Open 12:00
- 24:00. Also at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 52, tel. (+4) 021. 313
00 21, Open daily 08:00 - 22:00. . PESW
ROBERTOS & LA STRADA A fabulous place, boasting
an open kitchen, three distinct dining areas and a private
dining room. The food is classical, with the menu boasting
the best dishes from a number of Italian regions. Its not
cheap, but prices reect the high quality, and note that the
lunchtime set menu is in fact very competitively priced.
In a nutshell, its worth every penny: this is one of the top
ve restaurants in the land. Robertos is also the home of
the Hiltons now legendary and not-to-be-missed Sunday
Brunch, while in summer the La Strada terrace is the city's
best.QC-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton),
tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, fax (+4) 021 315 21 21. Open
06:30 - 10:00, 12:00 - 23:00. Sunday Brunch from 13:00-
16:30, 155 lei/pers. . PTGSW
TRATTORIA DON VITO RISTORANTE
They get a lot right here. Excellent salads, and the seafood-
packed signature Don Vito pasta was memorable. There is
NEW
ZAITOONE What have lovers of Lebanese food done to
deserve so much quality choice? Here is another winner, a
spacious, elegant place and the food more than lives up
to the surroundings. There are loads of good mezze, and
the grilled meats and kebabs are exemplary. For dessert,
the katayef are delicious: they even do a small portion if
you cant handle the full one! Oh, and note that they ac-
cept Amex cards (not many places in Bucharest do).QStr.
Virgil Madgearu 25-27 (Persepolis Complex), tel. (+4)
0737 29 99 00, www.zaitoone.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
. PLVSW
MEDITERRANEAN
CERISIERS We attended a Christening at this place re-
cently, and were blown away by the quality of the food:
really outstanding. The seafood and sh dishes are the
best of whats on the menu, but there is more than that
to enjoy: try the cracking salads or the beef carpaccio. As
for the rooftop terrace, there is no more romantic place to
eat in the city.QA-2, Str. Al. Constantinescu 33, tel. (+4)
0722 59 98 05, www.restaurantcerisiers.ro. Open 12:00
- 24:00. . PLBSW
JOSEPH BY JOSEPH HADAD This is an outstanding
place in every way: not only is the food sensational but the
villa in which it is served is also something of a Bucharest
treasure. In brief, this is as good as modern, contempo-
rary dining gets in this city and a visit here is worth every
penny.QB-2, Str. Prof. Dr. Ioan Cantacuzino 8, MAvia-
torilor, tel. (+4) 0753 99 93 33, www.josephrestaurant.
ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PLSW
OLIVIERS Can a hotel restaurant be this good? Yes. The
ambitious owners of the Residence hotel are very keen to
promote their excellent restaurant, and with good reason.
A small but perfectly formed dining room is the setting
for a tantalising menu of Oriental, Mediterranean and lo-
cal dishes. The gourmet menu (for two) is outstanding.
QA-3, Str. Clucerului 19, tel. (+4) 0733 10 91 37, www.
restaurantoliviers.ro. Open 12:00 - 23:30. . PLW
SHARKIA Sharkia blows in to the Radisson like the epony-
mous wind and brings with it some top class dining at the
hotels latest restaurant. What we have here is a dining room
where the focus is on Eastern Mediterranean food, the fresh-
est seasonal ingredients and supremely healthy eating. You
can feast on a great range of dishes from across the region,
there are some ne wines and its all done with that Radisson
swish.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4)
021 311 90 00. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . PLG
MODERN EUROPEAN
CAFE ATHENEE We love it. This is Bucharests village
pub, where the city comes to meet and have a terric
breakfast, lunch or early dinner. The new breakfast menu
oers something for everyone, from a full English to nasi
goreng, while the legendary Hilton burger remains one
pizza too, the sweets are delicious and the place itself is
decked out well without ever overdoing it. Well worth a
look. Note that downstairs is a totally non-smoking section.
Commendable.QC-4, Str. Mendeleev 1, MPiata Romana,
tel. (+4) 0735 33 30 21, www.trattoriadonvito.ro. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PSW
JAPANESE
YOSHI Sushi and teppanyaki - and more besides - at the
best new Japanese restaurant to open in Bucharest for
some time. Located in upmarket Dorobanti it is not cheap
(good Japanese food rarely is) but it is very good and the
set-menu at lunchtime is excellent value. The place itself is
spacious and very contemporary, and the perfect setting
for a meal of this quality.QStr. Banul Antonache 40-44,
tel. (+4) 0749 97 95 21, www.restaurantyoshi.ro. Open
12:00 - 00:00. . PVSW
LEBANESE
CHEZ TONI Terric Lebanese food in the leafy, away-
from-it-all setting of the Pescariu Tennis and Sports Club. All
your Middle Eastern favourites are here, from Antaki, Adana
and Beiti kebabs to sujuk (those tangy, spicy little sausages)
and simple yet perfectly grilled sea bass (and a ton of other
fresh sh). Everything is cooked by the resident Lebanese
chef.QC-2, Str. Glodeni 3, tel. (+4) 021 242 02 04, www.
cheztoni.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PLBSW
NEW
FOUR SEASONS DOROBANTI From the same people
who have long been serving some of the best Lebanese
food in the city at their Vasile Lascar location comes Four Sea-
sons Dorobanti, a more upmarket place to indulge yourself.
The food is fabulous and features the full range of Lebanese
food, including one of the best selections of mezze in the
city. There are grilled meats and sh too, while vegetarians
will also nd plenty to tempt them with. Make sure you try
the superb Lebanese yoghurt - made with mint and garlic -
and the amazing homemade lemonade.QB-3, Calea Doro-
bantilor 177, tel. (+4) 021 233 94 31, www.four-seasons.
ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Also at (C-4) Str.
Vasle Lascar 81, tel. (+40) 21 212 29 92. . PBSW
of the best in the city. There is also a bites menu of sub-
stantial nger food for executive snacking, and a bigger,
wider range of beers, wines and cocktails then ever, which
is why it is now as popular as an after-work venue as it is at
lunchtime.QC-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hil-
ton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, www.hiltonbucharest.com.
Open 08:00-20:00. . PESW
PRIME STEAKS & SEAFOOD Boasting a menu put
together by Executive Chef Bernd Kirsch, who has been in
charge of the kitchen here since Prime opened more than
ve years ago, what is perhaps Bucharests best restaurant
recently got better. Now serving the nest llet steak in
the world (the Irish Hereford Prime - which we can tell you,
as we have eaten it, is amazing), we can also recommend
the duet of foie gras with raspberry mousse and caremel-
ized pineapple, the grilled scallops and the lobster bisque.
(And just about everything else). Its genuinely amazing
this place, and worth every last penny.QB-4, Calea Victo-
riei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00, www.
prime-restaurant.ro. Open 12:30-15.00, 18.00-23.00,
Sat 18:00-23:00. Closed Sun. . PLG
MOLDOVAN
LA PLACINTE Popular Moldovan chain of eateries (there
are more than 10 of these restaurants in Chisinau) comes
to the centre of Bucharest. Charmingly decorated in a bril-
liant mix of traditional and hip you will love it the moment
you walk in. The food is good, and as the name suggests
(placinte means pies) there is a big range of pie on oer:
potatoe pie, cheese pie, pumpkin pie and even apple pie.
They are all good, made fresh (so you might have to wait
a bit) and come served piping hot. There is much else be-
sides, including the entirely recommended pelmeni.QB-4,
B-dul Dacia 20, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 031 410 80 21,
www.laplacinte.ro. Open 10.00 - 23.00. . PSW
PERUVIAN
NEW
PERU BISTRO Fed up with hearing about new dining
concepts in Bucharest which turn out to be nothing of the
sort? Well, here is something genuinely new and dierent:
Peruvian cuisine. A fusion of South American and Asian
you will nd superb beef and pork steaks on the menu
alongside some good sh. We were blown away by the
beef served in a slightly spicy orange sauce (lomo salsa aji)
while the Leche assado is the perfect desert. The place itself
is very nice: a large villa in the leafy north of the city with a
huge, gorgeous terrace at the rear.QA-2, Str. Aviator Pe-
tre Creu 63, tel. (+4) 0744 62 42 97, www.perubistro.ro.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PLVBSW
ROMANIAN
BISTRO LA TAIFAS La Taifas means having a chat and
thats exactly what you and your friends will feel like doing
at this tres jolie venue. We remain convinced that the origi-
nal venue behind the Hilton on Str. Episcopiei was better,
but this latest location is more spacious, and hosts more
regular musical soirees. The food is great, and booking is
still essential, especially if you want to sit on the terrace
in good weather.QB-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 16, tel. (+4)
021 212 77 88, www.bistrotaifas.ro. Open 12:00 - 01:00.
. PLVESW
CASA DOINA Alma mater of Romanian restaurants, an
integral part of the citys rich tapestry. This classy place
pulls in the cream of Bucharest society, served by charm-
ing, splendid waiters in smart dress. The food is superb,
and in a city where standards rise only to fall so often, Casa
Doina can be considered a paragon of consistency. Boasts
a large, gorgeous leafy terrace in the right weather.QB-3,
Sos. Kiselef 4, tel. (+4) 021 222 67 17, www.casadoina.
ro. Open 11:00 - 01:00. . PLEBSW
CORSO BRASSERIE & TERRACE
We brought our mother-in-law here recently to try out
the sarmale , and after careful consideration she admitted
that they were even better than her own: now thats high
praise indeed. In a top location, if this place doesnt occupy
the very best people-watching spot in the whole of the
city, then we dont know where does. Open for breakfast,
lunch (usually an excellent-value buet) and dinner, it is
seriously good. Oh, and then there is the Sunday Brunch:
currently the best in the city.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu
4 (Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021
310 20 20. Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 06:30
- 11:30, 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 11:00. 12:00 - 23:00.
Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 175 lei/pers, children un-
der six free, children between six and 12 half price. .
PTLEBW
GOOD OLD TIMES (GOLDEN TULIP TIMES HO-
TEL) A very good restaurant indeed. Featuring a very
good range of Romanian and international dishes, the
menu here changes regularly, usually in time with the sea-
sons. The young chef is not afraid to try something new
and dierent and note that if you fancy something which
is not on the menu, dont be afraid to ask. Good local wine
list. Note the last kitchen order is at 22:30.QE-6, B-dul De-
cebal 19, MPiata Muncii, tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16, info@
restauranttimes.ro, www.restauranttimes.ro. Open
12:00 - 23:00. . PLGSW
LA SIPOTE (PULLMAN BUCHAREST WORLD
TRADE CENTER) Oh yes. Another Romanian restaurant of
the new school (this one at the Pullman) where the accent is
on ne local food made with the best ingredients brought
direct from the countrys nest producers. The place is
dedicated to Ciprian Porumbescu, a 19th century composer
born in the town of Sipotele Sucevei (from whence the name).
QA-1, P-ta Montreal 10, tel. (+4) 021 202 16 30, www.
pullmanhotels.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. . PLW
LOCANTA JARISTEA This is that rarity in Bucharest
(and indeed Romania): an upmarket Romanian restaurant.
The surroundings, location, exquisitely decorated dining
rooms, service and choice of high quality food will con-
vince you of that. This is one of very few places in Romania
where you can enjoy an entire suckling pig (though note
that you will need to phone ahead and ask them to start
preparing it a day in advance) and sample some of the
best vintage wines Romania has ever produced.QB-6, Str.
George Georgescu 50-52, tel. (+4) 021 335 33 38, www.
jaristea.ro. Open 11:00 - 02:00. . PLESW
ROSSETYA Rossetya is a restaurant which tries harder
than most to take Romanian cuisine to new levels. As
such, this is as upmarket as Romanian food can get, and
the beef dishes here are especially good. Try the sote de
vacuta aromat cu cognac: tender beef sauteed in cognac
with mushrooms and tomatoes. Also worth trying is the
iahnie de fasole: a Romanian bean stew that packs some-
thing of a kick and proof that Romanian does do vegetarian
food.QC-5, Str. Dimitrie Bolintineanu 9, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 031 805 91 99/(+4) 0748 22 02 20, rossetya@
gmail.com, www.rossetya.ro. Open 11:00 - 23:30. .
PSW
SEAFOOD & FISH
CHERHANAUA ANCORA
Cherhana in Romanian means shery, so you will already
know what to expect here: ne sh and seafood. The inte-
rior is rather special: bright and contemporary, with more
than a hint of local avour. In a city now boasting more
than a few seriously good interiors, this is up with the best
of them. The food is very good too, from simple yet bril-
liantly executed local sh dishes (hamsii, carp and pike) to
more exotic sh shipped in direct from the Mediterranean
and beyond: sea bass, prawns, fresh tuna and much more.
We should add that there are some ne meat choices for
those who are not sh fans. Desserts as good as every-
thing else.QB-1, Sos. Nordului 7-9, tel. (+4) 0721 33 55
55, www.ancora-cherhana.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
PLSW
FISHBONE LUNCH & PUB
Another sh restaurant more than worth the name adds
itself to the growing list of such establishments in Bucha-
rest. Well prepared, fresh sh in bright, modern surround-
ings with a great selection of side dishes and plenty of
cracking wine to wash it all down with. Good lunchtime
deals and friendly, happy sta ready to make your time
here memorable. Certainly one of our fave places to open
this year.QC-4, Str. Gen. Ernest Brosteanu 2, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 0721 98 28 48, www.fshbonegrill.ro.
Open 10:00 - 24:00. . PESW
LA PESCADOR
A decent seafood eatery close to the city centre. The place
is nice, although it can feel a little dark inside (especially
during the sunnier months) as the windows are not huge,
so try and grab a seat on the small terrace if you can (make
a reservation). What we like best is the lunchtime deal, one
of the best value in the city and the only we know of which
features a decent bit of sh. Top marks.QD-4, Str. Mihai
Eminescu 181, tel. (+4) 0768 92 49 60, www.lapescador.
ro. Open 10:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. PLVBSW
LA VERANDA
One of three superb restaurants at the Crowne Plaza. This
one is housed inside a glass terrace oering wonderful
views of the garden outside: a joy in any weather. It serves
deceptively simple yet exquisite sh and sea food as fresh
as the day it was caught, and the chef will happily cook to
order.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafei 1 (Crowne Plaza), tel. (+4)
021 224 00 34, www.laveranda.ro. Open 06:00 - 10:30,
12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 11:30, 12:30
- 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00. . PLEW
SLOW FOOD
BEAUTYFOOD Love it. Another brilliant little Slow Food
venue pops up in Bucharest, this time on the site of the old
Violetas. Check the blackboard for whats on the menu - if
they have it we can recommend the burger with the home
fries. Always has a good lunchtime deal on: two delicious
courses usually priced around 20 lei.QC-5, Str. Jean Louis
Calderon 34, tel. (+4) 0759 03 06 09, www.beauty-food.
ro. Open 9:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 -
22:00. Closed Mon. .
METUKA
Slow Food in every sense of the phrase: the food is sea-
sonal, all prepared fresh, and made from locally-sourced
ingredients. The menu changes every day, but there is
always a good choice for either lunch or dinner (soups,
nger food and more substantial dishes), as well as some
terric desserts. Well worth a visit.QB-4, B-dul Lascar
Catargiu 7, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0734 16 57 46.
Open 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. . PVSW
THE LONDON STREET BISTRO
The London Street Atelier has been making delicious home-
made food for those in the know for a while, and now there
is this rather super little bistro to go with it. Expect a menu
that changes weekly, fresh, seasonal ingredients and a
whole host of inventive treats you will not nd elsewhere
(we were lucky enough to hit upon some Feteasca Neagra
sausages). Not as expensive as it probably should be, theres
a great set lunch deal each day which includes - unlike many
others in this town - a glass of wine. Has a wonderful seclud-
ed terrace at this time of year, set back from the trac with
a deck and plenty of greenery.QC-3, Str. Putul Lui Zamfr
15, tel. (+4) 0736 93 35 31, www.thelondonstreetatelier.
com. Open 09:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. . VBW
VIOLETAS BISTRO Traditional and modern Romanian
food (the cook is not afraid to experiment) with more than a
nod towards the vegetarian served o a menu that changes
regularly. You can check the latest menu online (it is always
up to date) and then decide if you fancy anything before set-
ting o. Chances are you will spot plenty you like. The brunch
from 11:00-16:00 on Saturdays is excellent value at 80 lei per
person: kids under seven are free. The place itself is lovely, and
the sta wonderful.QD-6, Str. George Ionescu-Gion 9, tel.
(+4) 0722 52 56 43, www.violetas.ro. Open 12:00 - 22:00,
Sat 10:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. . PGBSW
SPANISH
LA RAMBLA Spanish food as it well and truly should be:
its not often you can write that in Bucharest. From an expert
gazpacho to a paella made in Heaven to the most superb
piece of salted cod, everything we have ever eaten here has
been rst class. It helps of course that the ingredients are all
the real thing: the hams, olives and just about everything
else is shipped in direct from Spain. Oh, and the Sangria?
Cafs Restaurants
of them are well worth trying. Great desserts too.QC-5,
Str. Hristo Botev 18-20, tel. (+4) 021 314 28 25, www.
goldenfalcon.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PLSW
URBAN CONTEMPORARY
RESTAURANT MADAME POGANY
Fine, upmarket yet casual restaurant of the new school in
Floreasca/Dorobanti. The spacious, modern, well-lit din-
ing room gives you a real sense of grandeur without ever
becoming kitsch: a trick few have managed to pull o in
Bucharest. There is little point telling you about the food
as the menu changes almost daily: what we can say is that
whatever you order you are likely to be happy with it. This
is a great restaurant.QC-3, Str. Banu Antonache 40-44,
tel. (+4) 0744 10 56 13, www.madamepogany.ro. Open
09:00 - 00:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. . PLSW
VEGETARIAN
CASA SATYA
The concept is Ayurveda, as in the pseudo-scientic sys-
tem of natural healing. Food wise, that means everything
here is meat free, and made with only organic ingredients.
That does not mean forgoing taste: the delicious chutneys
served with the poppadoms will convince you of that right
from the o. The toilets by the way are amazing, and as you
might expect, it is totally non-smoking.QA-3, B-dul Banu
Manta 25, tel. (+4) 0736 39 25 87, www.satya.ro. Open
12:00 - 24:00. . PVGBSW
BUCHAREST CAFES
ARISTOCATS BISTRO Charming, in a word. Set in a gor-
geous old Bucharest house its like a coee shop and tea house
and bistro and much more besides. Huge big omelettes for
breakfast, soups at lunchtime, freshly made pasta for dinner:
the menu changes all the time so just ask whats good the
day you go. Oh, and they have muns, wonderful muns.
Its also licensed so you can have a beer or cocktail.QC-5, Str.
Teodor Stefanescu 1, tel. (+4) 0758 90 05 82. Open 10:00 -
24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PLSW
CAFE TIMES Free Wi with your (excellent) coee and a
can-do attitude from the sta who appear to realise that
sometimes people are busy, and need their coee double
quick. Not every cafe in Bucharest does realise that... Hav-
ing said that, this is the kind of laid-back place that you
end up spending the whole afternoon in, no matter how
busy you are.QE-6, B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata Muncii,
tel. (+4) 031 224 80 16, www.cafetimes.ro. Open 07:30 -
24:00. PLESW
CAFE VERONA Sublime. The brilliant Carturesti book-
shop has long served coee with its books, and now there
is wine; and cocktails too. And if there is a better place to
drink coee this close to the centre of Bucharest than this
place then we know not of it. For long lazy afternoons or
laid-back evenings with friends it is great, while for brunch
it makes a brilliant (and bargain) alternative to the big, ex-
pensive hotels. Always packed, a reservation is a good idea.
More than worthy a jug or two.QStr. Grigore Alexandres-
cu 8, tel. (+4) 0765 55 58 33, [email protected], www.
larambla.ro. Open 09:00 - 01:00. PVEBSW
STEAK HOUSES
JW STEAKHOUSE BUCHAREST
The JW Marriott hosts one of Bucharests best chophouses:
the JW Steakhouse, only the second such signature venue
to open in Europe. You can expect a very American steak-
house experience, right down to the Black Angus beef
imported from the US. The Tomahawk steak - weighing in
at nearly a kilo - is the pick of the steaks, but there is much
more besides, including broiled lobster and Australian
lamb chops. There is a great selection of new world wines,
and they open early for breakfast.QB-6, Calea 13 Sep-
tembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), MIz-
vor/Eroilor, tel. (+4) 021 403 19 03, www.jwsteakhouse.
ro. Open 06:30 - 11:00, 12:30 - 16:00, 18:30 - 23:30, Sat
06:30 - 11:00, 18:30 - 23:30. Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00,
210 lei/pers, children between six and twelve half price,
children under six free. . PLESW
OSHO
This is a butchers shop and restaurant serving T-bone
steaks you would scream for in the dark. There is more
than steak on the menu though, such as a top burger
(which comes in three sizes), tangy lamb chops and an
outstanding selection of fresh sh. Plus, theres a kids
menu. We also have to admit to being pleasantly surprised
about the prices: given the location (this is Beverly Hills,
Bucharest) they are more than reasonable considering you
get the best of the best. Packed at lunchtime.QB-2, B-dul
Primaverii 19-21, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 021 568 30 31,
www.osho-restaurant.ro. Open 10:30 - 23:30, Sat 10:00
- 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. . PVBSW
VACAMUUU
Currently the most talked-about chophouse in the city.
Serving a range of steaks so wide and so good that even
the most jaded of beefeaters will be drooling, you can also
feast on lamb, veal and pork chops, while the burgers are
a match for anywhere else. There is a kids menu, and the
weekend all-you-can-eat breakfast buet is top value. Most
of the meat can be bought to take home and cook yourself
should you wish, and then theres the wine list: a surprise we
will let you discover yourself.QC-3, Calea Floreasca 111, tel.
(+4) 0731 35 11 35, www.vacamuuu.com. Open 09:00 -
23:00. . PTSW
THAI
KUNNAI At last, place for those of us who have been
craving something Thai since Moods closed a while ago
now. This place is terric, found on the ground oor of a
new apartment block in a leafy northern part of Bucharest.
The food is the real deal, of which the food will convince
you immediately. We had the Pla Praew Waan sh stir-fry
followed by the prawn Phad Thai: both were sensational
and well worth the money (its good value if not exactly
cheap). Get there now.QStr. Copilului 6, tel. (+4) 0722 68
73 43/(+4) 0722 68 74 54, www.kunnai.ro. Open 12:00 -
24:00 Last kitchen order 23:00. . PTLSW
TURKISH
GOLDEN FALCON
Still the greatest kebab house in the land, and still pack-
ing in the punters who come back time and again. There
are no menus here: instead the waitresses will parade a
trolley-full of meze before you to pick from, before com-
ing round with the kebabs: pick which one you want
then send it to be cooked in the open kitchen. We usually
always go for the lamb kebabs, but in our experience all
Nightlife Cafs
BARS
Bucharests bars generally fall in one of three groups: Cock-
tail & Quirky where you will mainly nd good cocktails, a
laid-back atmosphere and the odd quirky feature, Upmar-
ket (often hotel-based) bars for business folk and those
looking to impress their dates, and Wine Bars, where ne
grape is the order of the day.
COCKTAILS & QUIRKY
BAR A1
A little bit of everything in a very nice package. Food (in-
cluding breakfast), drink (the milkshakes are fab, there is a
range of rather unusual beers, while the wine selection is
better than your average wine bar) and cakes that would
shame most bakeries. The place itself is delightfully chic in
that slightly shabby way, and the crowd that meets here
is equally relaxed. You will love the place.QB-4, Str. Piata
Amzei 1, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0723 12 48 47. Open
8:00 - 00:30. NS
INTERBELIC Having moved from its hidden location in
the Old Town you could have forgiven this now legendary
bar for going mainstream: the good news it that it hasnt.
Interbelic still has that speakeasy feel, like a well-kept secret
amongst people in the know. The new location is bigger,
serves food, has live music some evenings but is still rst
choice to bring somebody you really want to impress with
your insiders knowledge of Bucharest.QC-6, Calea Vic-
toriei 17, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 10 01 93, www.
interbelic.ro. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 -
05:00. PENW
RAMAYANA CAFE Looking like a cross between a Ma-
harajas bedroom and the most luxurious hotel in Delhi, this
cafe and cocktail bar is quite frankly unique. You will not nd
anywhere better in Bucharest quite so startling in design,
nor will you nd a better place to bring a secret date for a
little tete-a-tete. With more nooks and crannies than your
grandmothers country house, pull up a cushion, sup on a
hookah pipe and drink a green tea. Exceptional.QA-5, Str.
Baldovin Parcalabul 11, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 317
16 81, www.ramayana.ro. Open 24 hrs. PESW
UPMARKET
ENGLISH BAR One of our regular haunts. This little corner
of the Hiltonthat will forever be associated with intrigue and
spies (it has been around for nearly a century, as long as the
hotel) remains today a classy bar serving champagne by the
glass and much else besides (including a tremendous pint
of Guinness). Packed most days with business leaders it also
regularly hosts sophisticated parties, and on some Thursday
nights this little bar becomes the most happening venue in
town, a favourite of Bucharests fashionistas. Essential.QC-5,
Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021
303 37 77 ext. 6759. Open 11:00 - 02:00. PLW
INTERMEZZO PIANO BAR Legendary and rather his-
toric hotel bar in the lobby of the Inter, which was a den of
iniquity and intrigue during the communist period, all spies
and journalists, plots and honey traps. Now its merely a very
cool place to meet and have a drink in superb surroundings.
Another one of the many reasons why the InterContinental is
once again one of the top places in Bucharest to spend time.
QC-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 4 (Hotel InterContinental),
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20. Open 08:00 -
01:00. PLEW
PAVILION LOUNGE The JW Marriotts bar is a suitably
stylish and contemporary venue boasting one of the most
elegant bars in the city. There are various seating areas,
from the stools at the bar to comfy sofas and armchairs.
Throw in a top cocktail list and great sta and it all means
that the citys other business bars have some real competi-
tion at last. Top stu.QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW
Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 04,
www.jwmarriottbucharest.com. Open 08:00 - 01:00,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. PLEW
BEERHALL
BERARIE GAMBRINUS One of the most celebrated and
historic pubs in Bucharest - haunt, for decades, of Caragiale,
Gica Petrescu and every other local carouser - returns, as
something of a Heineken-pub. There is Romanian beer on tap
though, Gambrinus, Silva and Ciuc, available by the metre if
thats what you fancy. Theres some good pub grub too, not
least the sausages which were terric.QB-5, B-dul Regina
Elisabeta 38, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0744 31 51 10, www.
berariegambrinus.ro. Open 07:00 - 02:00. PSW
PUBS
ENERGIEA We like this place a lot: the high ceilings and
big windows make it a good choice day and night, the
original oor looks great and there are a number of dierent
rooms, not all of which carry the industrial-chic look of the
main bar. Best of all though we like the raised interior bal-
cony. Top cocktail-sipping territory.QB-6, Str. Brezoianu 4,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0736 37 44 32, www.energiea.
ro. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 15:00 - 02:00,
Sun 15:00 - 01:00. PLBSW
QC-5, Str. Pictor Arthur Verona 13-15, MPiata Romana,
tel. (+4) 0732 00 30 60, [email protected]. Open 09:00
- 24:00. PSW
CAMERA DIN FATA One of the best cafes to open in Bu-
charest for years. The name means Front room, and being
here is in many ways just like being somebodys front room.
Great coee and tea served in great mugs from gorgeous
tea pots at tables which ll up early as the world pops in for
espresso on its way to work. Lovely.QC-4, Str. Mendeleev
22, tel. (+4) 021 311 15 12, www.cameradinfata.ro. Open
08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PSW
COFTALE Much more than being merely a very good
cafe, this gorgeous place serves some of the best light
meals and nger food you will eat in Bucharest. The veg-
etable spring rolls for example: amazing. The coee is reas-
suringly wonderful, the hot chocolate with marshmallows
a legend in the making, and the desserts and cakes more
than tempting. Its well worth looking out for this place.
QD-5, Str. Stefan Mihaileanu 42, tel. (+4) 0748 84 86 78,
www.coftale.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00. PAESW
GREEN TEA We know that there have been tea houses in
Bucharest before, but none were ever like this. A gorgeous
villa whose many rooms have all been lovingly decorated
in a dierent theme (one is like your favourite Grans front
room, another is like a country house) the list of teas avail-
able is as long as your arm. Some are very exotic indeed.
And yes, besides taking tea here, you can buy just about
all of the teas in the shop.QD-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 24,
tel. (+4) 021 320 93 96, www.greentea.ro. Open 10:00 -
23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PGSW
KAFETERYA CAFE We know people who co e here so
often, and spend so much time here, that they should
probably be paying rent. It is that kind of place: a friendly,
local cafe serving top coee, cocktails, light meals, salads
and desserts to die for (the waes are probably the best
in Bucharest). Its packed with comfy sofas and armchairs,
and we can guarantee that one visit will not be enough.
QB-5, Str. Schitu Magureanu 8, MIzvor, tel. (+4)
0726 22 25 67, www.kafeterya.ro. Open 07:30 - 24:00.
PESW
LA GALETTE Classy cafe and patisserie at the Pullman,
a popular choice with guests and oce workers from the
World Trade Center. The range of pastries is just about sec-
ond to none in Bucharest, while the coees are great value
for what is after all a ve-star hotel.QA-1, P-ta Montreal 10
(Pullman Bucharest Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00/(+4)
021 202 16 33, www.pullmanhotels.com. Open 08:00 -
20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. PBSW
ORIGO A contender for the title of best coee shop in
Bucharest. This place is all about great coee from all over
the world, as well as a fairly decent selection of tea too.
Many of the more exotic coees can be bought by the
packet to make at home, and the design of the place is
not too shabby either: the coee cups hanging down over
the bar are a nice touch. Theres relaxing music, cocktails
and - here comes the big news - inside it is totally non-
smoking.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 9, tel. (+4) 0757 08 66 88.
Open 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00.
PGSW
READERS CAFE
This place is one of the great things about the Metropo-
lis Centre, of which the Starlight Suites and Loft restaurant
also form part. You will nd Readers on the ground oor,
a modern, bright and well-lit space where you can read,
drink great coee or eat - far better than you would ex-
pect. The breakfast is terric, the sandwiches tasty and
well-lled, the salads big and the pasta light. Live music
most evenings (early evening) and well separated smok-
ing and non-smoking sections. Nice.QB-4, Str. Grigore
Alexandrescu 89-97, MStefan cel Mare, tel. (+4) 0737
32 33 77, www.readerscafe.ro. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat
10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PLESW
SUBSOL BAR
Perhaps the most iconic building in Bucharest. Inside the
shell of an old house destroyed during the 1989 revolution
a new building has risen, home - ttingly - to Romanias
architectural association. The cafe and bar which occupies
part of the building is more than worthy of its location,
a contemporary space with walls decorated with scenes
from the revolution, where you can enjoy coee and cock-
tails in the company of a good young crowd. There are
tasty sandwiches too, which can be taken away if you are
in a hurry.QC-5, Str. Demetru Ion Dobrescu 5, MUniver-
sitate, tel. +(4) 021 315 60 98, www.subsolbar.ro. Open
10:00 - 24:00. PSW
TONKA SOUL CAFE
This place has indeed got soul, and plenty else besides.
Warm and quiet coee house by day, it becomes the per-
fect aperitivo spot when the sun goes down, then gets
really wild as the music gets louder and the hours get
shorter. Theres a good internet cafe in the basement.QB-
4, Str. Biserica Amzei 19, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0723
44 80 80, [email protected], www.tonka.ro. Open 24hrs.
PRESW
VIENNA LOUNGE
The Marriotts posh agship caf, which is exactly as youd
expect: classy, enjoyable and expensive. Sit and try to
read those unmanageable newspapers on a stick, while
enjoying the occasional live piano music, plus the sight
of business types buzzing about to conferences. Whats
more fun than leisurely watching others work when you
dont have to?QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Mar-
riott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 01,
[email protected]. Open 09:00 - 23:00.
PLESW
Nightlife Nightlife
is it has become rather popular again. If you want a table
(especially at the weekend) make a reservation.QC-6, Str.
Bibescu Voda 1, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 55 44 55,
www.theharp.ro. Open 08:30 - 02:00. PEW
CLUBS & DISCOS
As a general rule, Bucharests clubs can be divided into
three categories (as we have): the upmarket, Uber-Clubs,
where the trendy, fashionable and well-heeled go to party,
Student & Underground clubs where you will nd a
mainly local crowd of young partygoers, and Live Music
clubs which host live bands most nights of the week. There
is a fair bit of crossover of course, but we think these three
categories describe the citys club scene reasonably well.
LIVE MUSIC
CHAOS Smashing live music club. Expect good - mainly
local but often foreign - live acts most nights of the week,
with a reasonably big name performing at least once or
twice a month. Good beer, a very good atmosphere and
a real favourite of big groups of friends looking for a great
night out. You can eat here too: theres a restaurant serv-
ing some terric, big-portioned Romanian food on site.
QE-6, Str. Turturelelor 11, tel. (+4) 0731 49 51 14, www.
facebook.com/chaos.venue. Open 20:00 - 04:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PLEBSW
CONTROL CLUB Still tops our list of clubs for people
who do not like clubs. It is a brilliant place where there is
always something going on, be it a DJ or live music sup-
plied by one of Bucharests better live acts. Note also that
it opens early afternoon: it is now a pub as much as a club,
and when the weather is good enough it has a smart ter-
race. Fantastic.QC-5, Str. Constantin Mille 4, MUniversi-
tate, tel. (+4) 0733 92 78 61, www.control-club.ro. Open
13:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 06:00. PEW
MUSIC CLUB A live music venue where youll nd a
great resident band most evenings performing creditable
covers of all your favourite classic hits. They are more often
than not joined on stage in the early hours by leading Ro-
manian musicians who have quickly made this place their
preferred haunt. Very nice indeed: be prepared to have a
very good time.QC-6, Str. Baratiei 31, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0720 88 71 15, www.music-club.ro. Open 22:00 -
04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. PEW
TRIBUTE Besides a fantastic resident band, Tribute is also
regularly host to a number of the best live acts in the busi-
ness, who love the atmosphere provided by a great crowd
and wonderful acoustics. Basically, if the excitement of
live music is what you are looking for, this is one rst class
venue. Bang in the city centre (its on Calea Victoriei) its a
great choice if you are stuck in a downtown pub thinking
about where to move on to.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 118, tel.
(+4) 0728 74 28 83, www.tribute.ro. Open 22:00 - 06:00,
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PEW
HAPPY PUB
What could be termed as a good, solid, no frills pub that
eschews clutter and trendy crap and concentrates on the
beer, the cocktails and treating its customers well. Theres
a regular crowd of locals and foreigners, and its the kind of
place where you never feel too young or too old. Top se-
lection of brews (including several imported British beers
and stouts), decent music and bar food. We like it.QB-4,
Str. Caderea Bastiliei 36, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 0729
89 27 68/(+4) 0736 33 76 06, www.happypub.ro. Open
16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. PSW
LA CALDERON 80
With its wooden interior, inoensive music and gangs
of young people clustered around big tables, La 80 does
much to distinguish itself from a swathe of similar estab-
lishments. Reasonable food and prices, and this little place
opposite Gradina Icoanei is a nice retreat from more frantic
venues elsewhere.QC-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 80, tel. (+4)
021 212 48 86/(+4) 0728 92 06 20, www.lacalderon80.
ro. Open 11:00 - 01:00. PBSW
PRIMUS Big pub that goes a long way towards convinc-
ing us that we do not need to go to Old Town to nd a
decent drinker in Bucharest. From the very good attempt
at an English breakfast to a decent pint of both Guinness
and Kilkenny you can add their own beer, Primus, a decent-
tasting bargain. The huge windows make it feel much like
a street cafe. Service is good too, and we love the retro-
style black and white tiled oor.QB-5, Str. George En-
escu 3, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0732 22 26 66, www.
primuspub.ro. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00,
Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PBW
SHIFT
Its doubtful that youve seen anything like this place in Bu-
charest before. Shift is a Bohemian restaurant/bar/club of
some style. It is, in a word, gorgeous, and has been packed
since opening day with the hippest and coolest people in
the land. Late at night this is the smartest chill-out venue
in the city, and we (and just about everybody else) love
it.QC-4, Str. Eremia Grigorescu 17, tel. (+4) 021 211 22
72, [email protected], www.shiftpub.ro. Open 12:00 -
03:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 05:00. PSW
WHITE HORSE
The White Horse has been around so long it should prob-
ably consider going out to stud. Or should it? On a recent
visit we found it to be in surprisingly good shape, and
packed with both locals of the ordinary people variety,
as well as group of rowdy expats. There is still good food
in the more formal part upstairs, with bar snacks served
down. We have always loved the square bar.QB-3, Str.
George Clinescu 4A, tel. (+4) 021 231 27 95, ofce@
whitehorse.ro, www.whitehorse.ro. Open 12:00 - 02:00.
PBSW
IRISH PUBS
DUBLINER
Legendary boozer in the sense that it was the rst real pub
to open in Bucharest (back in 1995). Unchanged in years
the Dubliner remains a favourite of many old school ex-
pats, although the location makes it a bit of a trek for Old
Town or city centre-based visitors. Serves a good chicken
pie and English breakfast, an exemplary Guinness and of-
fers a wide range of sports courtesy of Sky TV.QA-4, B-dul
N. Titulescu 18, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 260 26
78. Open 09:00 - 02:00. PBSW
THE HARP IRISH PUB & RESTAURANT
The Harp is back, and is better than ever before. In fact, if
you havent been here for a while you might hardly recog-
nise the place. Set over two levels, with two great bars, the
Guinness is as exemplary as ever, and the food is fabulous, a
cut above your usual pub grub and bordering on the out-
standing. The enormous burger they have started serving
here might be a contender for the citys biggest. There is
live music some nights, and be warned: as big as this place
CASINOS
CASINO BUCHARESTQC-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu
4 (InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 83
38 28, www.casinobucharest.ro. Open 18:00 - 06:00.
GRAND CASINOQB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW
Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 08
00, www.grandcasinoromania.com. Open 24 hrs.
METROPOLIS CASINOQB-5, Str. Calea Victoriei
37B (Novotel), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0742 07
91 19, www.metropoliscasinobucharest.ro. Open
24hrs. PLKW
PLATINUM CASINOQB-4, Calea Victoriei 63-
81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 031 710 22 34, www.
platinumcasino.ro. Open 24 hrs. PLK
QUEEN CASINOQB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (How-
ard Johnson Grand Plaza), MP-ta Romana, tel. (+4)
0372 76 34 45, www.queen-casino.ro. Open 24 hrs.
VICE ADVICE
For visitors to Bucharest looking for a little debauchery,
there basically three options: one legal, one not exactly
legal but not exactly illegal either, and one completely il-
legal.
The legal option (and the only option we recommend) is
erotic massage at a reputable massage parlour. You will
certainly not be oered any sexual encounters at these
places, but there is still much fun to be had, from simple
hand assistance to full body massage from one, two or
even three nubile young ladies. Prices start at around 35
though climb higher at the more central, luxurious estab-
lishments.
The second (and not-always-above-board) option is
to simply head for a brothel (surely erotic nightclub?
Ed). These establishments advertise themselves in seedy
publications as legitimate strip clubs, but act mainly as
fronts for brothels, usually run by very dodgy, and often
quite dangerous businessmen. After sitting yourself down
at a table you will be served expensive drinks, before be-
ing joined by some very bored young ladies. These girls
sometimes lap dance for you, and always try to convince
you to buy them cocktails (in fact orange juice with an
umbrella, usually costing about 15). After half an hour of
bored conversation you may be asked if you would like to
retreat to a more intimate location, usually a room above,
or even in, the night club itself. For an hour of whatever it is
you fancy expect to pay a minimum of 100, as well as the
obligatory bottle of sparkling wine, which usually costs at
least another 50. All this on top of your already huge tab.
The third option is to call one of the escorts who adver-
tise in many of the poor quality city guides found around
town. This is completely illegal and you really ought to
think twice before picking up the phone.
The places we list below can all be vouched for as up-
standing businesses which oer high standards and total
discretion. All oer full erotic massage, and will even col-
lect you from your hotel.
ARTEMIS MASAJQA-6, Str. Costache Negri 18,
MEroilor, tel. (+4) 0754 96 31 67, www.artemis-
masaj.ro. Open 12:00 - 04:00.
INTERDIT NIGHT CLUBQC-5, Str. Batistei 11 (Pia-
ta Universitatii), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0768 80 67
74. Open 12:00 - 05:00.
TAO MASSAGEQB-5, Calea Victoriei 83-85, tel.
(+4) 0788 77 86 60, www.tao-erotic-massage.ro.
Open 13:00 - 24:00.
VIP OBSESSION SALOONQC-6, B-dul Unirii 16,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0755 14 18 68, (+4) 0733 53
34 22, www.vip-obsession.ro.
Sightseeing Nightlife
ESSENTIAL BUCHAREST
The rst port of call for any visitor to Bucharest these days
should probably be the Historic Centre, or Old Town. The
Peasant and Village Museums should also not be missed,
as well as the Grigore Antipa National History Museum.
While still the most famous building in the city and usu-
ally top of the agenda for most visitors, Casa Poporului/
Palatul Parlamentului tends to be a bit of a let down for
most. Art lovers should pencil in at least an afternoon at
the National Art Museum. Last but not least, half a day at
the Bellu Cemetery is a wonderful trip through Romanian
literary, artistic, political and architectural history.
CASA POPORULUI (PARLIAMENT PALACE; PAL-
ATUL PARLAMENTULUI) Palatul Parlamentului (known
universally as Casa Poporului) was built during the dark-
est days of the Nicolae Ceausescu regime. Standing 84m
above ground level on 12 oors, the building has long been
shrouded in mystery, rumour and hyperbole. Originally
designed (by a young architect, Anca Petrescu, who was
just 28 at the time) to house almost all the organs of the
communist state, it today plays host to the Romanian parlia-
ment, as well as Romanias Museumof Contemporary Art. The
public tour of the building is thoroughly recommended (it
is the only way to see the building, in fact) though the com-
mentary often consists of little more than a guide reeling
o endless superlative statistics. Youll see plenty of grand
staircases, marble-plated halls and conference rooms, while
- if you pay the extra - you may also have the chance to go
on the roof, which oers perhaps the best view of central
Bucharest. You can even now take a trip into the bowels of
the building down below, though again this costs extra. To
join one of the tours you will need to bring your passport.
Use the entrance on the right-hand side of the palace (if
youre looking at it front-on). Izvor is the nearest metro sta-
tion. QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 1, intrarea A3, MIzvor,
tel. (+4) 021 311 36 11, www.cdep.ro. Open 10:00 - 16:00
(last tour 15:30). Admission 25-45 lei adults, 13-23 lei stu-
dents. Free for children under 18 and the disabled. An
additional fee of 30.00 lei is payable by those with cam-
eras, either still or video.
GEORGE ENESCU MUSEUM (MUZEUL NATION-
AL GEORGE ENESCU) Mistakenly believed to be the
great Romanian composer George Enescus former home,
this outstanding Secession house was in fact built for
landowner George Cantacuzino in 1905, and many older
Bucharest residents still refer to it as the Cantacuzino Pal-
ace. It became state property in 1955, the year of Enescus
death, and a year later opened as a museum dedicated
to his life and work. You will nd rooms full of the usual
memorabilia and artefacts from the eventful life of Roma-
nias most famous composer, as well as a full telling of the
story of Romanian music in general. QB-4, Calea Victo-
riei 141, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 318 14 50, www.
georgeenescu.ro. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Ad-
mission 6 lei, children 1.50 lei. Free entry on the 26th of
each month.
GRIGORE ANTIPA MUSEUM OF NATURAL HIS-
TORY (MUZEUL DE ISTORIE NATURAL GRI-
GORE ANTIPA) One of Romanias nest museums, and
one of the best natural history museums in Europe. Packed
with terric exhibits which will keep kids of all ages and
their parents occupied for the best part of the day, there
are all sorts of hands-on, interactive displays, as well as 3D
lms, articial caves and - in the basement - a thorough
guide to the incredible amount of animal and plant life
native to Romania. The building which houses it all is it-
self worthy of note, purpose built in 1908 at the behest
BELLU CEMETERY
Founded in the 1850s, this is Bucharests most historic
cemetery, the nal resting place of just about every
great Romanian academic, scientist, artist, writer, mu-
sician and poet you can think of, as well as the odd
politician. Each has his or her own plot, usually with
an accompanying monument (our favourite is that
devoted to the comic actor Toma Caragiu, killed in the
Bucharest earthquake of 1977). You could spend half a
day here wandering between the gravestones, memo-
rials and statues (the graves are grouped by profession:
scientists in one part, actors in another etc). Next to the
cemetery is the Cimitirul Eroilor, where those killed in
Bucharest during the 1989 revolution are buried. QCa-
lea Serban Voda 249, MEroii Revolutiei, tel. (+4) 021
636 35 71, www.bellu.ro. Open 08:00 - 16:00.
STUDENT & UNDERGROUND
EXPIRAT & OTHERSIDE CLUB
A club with two faces. Expirat is home to some of Bucha-
rests most eclectic sounds, and as it has an OtherSide (Ex-
pirats club within a club), chances are there is bound to be
something going on you fancy. The music policy is a bit of
everything: folk (usually live on Mondays), electro, alterna-
tive, rock and indie with hip-hop, reggae and disco some-
times thrown in for good measure. (Check the venues
Facebook page to see whats on the night you fancy go-
ing). Drinks are well priced, and there are two bars mean-
ing that you never have to wait too long to get served.
Top notch.QB-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 4, MPiata Unirii/
Izvor, tel. (+4) 0733 97 47 28/(+4) 0726 80 41 42, www.
expirat.org. Open 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.
(Expirat); 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. (The
OtherSide). PEW
KULTURHAUS
The student favourite. A nakedly non-commercial club
that attracts a nakedly non-commercial crowd on two lev-
els oering hard rock, folk rock, new wave, punk and indie
upstairs, and pretty much the same downstairs (though
it depends on the DJ...) Has a live band playing at least
once a week, bags of other events and refreshingly says
NO to table service: yes, you will have to get your sorry ass
to the bar to get a drink. We are fans.QC-6, Str. Sf. Vineri
4, MPiata Unirii/Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 55 92,
www.kulturhaus.ro. Open 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Sun. PLE
PANIC!
Panic!, possibly the rst club in Bucharest named after a
song by The Smiths, oers a mix of music centering on (but
in no way conned to) alternative rock. There are plenty of
live acts performing regularly and theres always a good
crowd of music lovers to share it all with. Refreshingly, its
open every night of the week (many clubs in Bucharest
are not) and there is always, always something going on.
Get in.QC-5, Str. Academiei 19, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0766 05 61 70, [email protected], www.panic-
club.ro. Open 14:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 06:00.
PEW
UPMARKET CLUBS
BARLETTO CLUB It has now had a few names this place,
but it remains one of the citys best, most exclusive and
of course most expensive uber-clubs. Featuring some of
the sexiest dancers in Romania Friday and Saturday nights
here are wild. The music is supplied by the worlds best
DJs. You will need to take a taxi here, but then this is not
the kind of place for people who use public transport
anyway. Note that Barlettos large pool is open during the
summer from 10:00-18:00. entrance is 20 lei Mon-Fri, 40 lei
Sat, Sun.QStr. Oltetului 30, tel. (+4) 0751 04 04 06, www.
barletto.ro. Open 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
Thu, Sun. PLEW
BOA (BEAT OF ANGELS) From the outside a fairly non-
descript building that looks vaguely like a warehouse, but
once in, wow! It is an enormous place that mixes luxury
with great music courtesy of two top local resident DJs.
There is plenty of space to dance, plenty of places to
chill out and even the toilets are spacious and damn well
luxurious. You will leave wanting to go back and cursing
your luck that it is only open twice a week.QB-3, Sos.
Kiselef 32, tel. (+4) 0736 30 07 00, www.boaclub.ro.
Open 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.
PLEBW
CUZCO CLUB One of the biggest clubs in central Bu-
charest. Oers a mix of house and South American beats
on the music front, as well as regular live events. Its a bit
classier than your average Bucharest club, and the crowd
it attracts is a rich mix of age groups. No chance of feeling
either too young or too old here. Worth a look.QC-4, Str.
Mendeelev 35, tel. (+4) 0722 50 17 93, www.cuzcoclub.
ro. Open 20:00 - 08:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
FRATELLI Top notch. One of Bucharests uber-clubs, where
the richest and best looking people in the city come to see
and be seen. Serving up a neverending supply of top DJs
from both Romania and abroad, it is clear that the people
who run this place consider the music to be as important
as anything else: something not every club in this town can
boast. Not cheap if you stick to the beer and do not sit at
a table then you can still have a reasonably priced night
out here. Brilliant.QStr. Glodeni 1-3, tel. (+4) 0731 03 62
22, www.fratelli.ro. Open 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Thu, Sun. PL
KRISTAL GLAM CLUB Bucharests longest-running
uber-club, still probably your rst reference point for top
international DJs and hedonistic nights. It has been in a few
locations over the years, but the latest, in a converted cin-
ema close to the city centre is - in our opinion - the best
yet. Whats more, unlike a few clubs of the upmarket kind,
which are merely for posing, Kristal has a proper dance oor
for those who actually like to enjoy themselves.QB-5, B-dul
Regina Elisabeta 34, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 79 51
84, www.clubkristal.ro. Open 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PNW
Sightseeing Sightseeing
of Grigore Antipa, a noted Romanian naturalist who then
set-up and ran the museum for almost ve decades until
his death in 1944. QB-3, os. Kiselef 1, MPiata Victo-
riei, tel. (+4) 021 312 88 26, www.antipa.ro. Open 10:00
- 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 20 lei, pensioners
10 lei, children/students 5 lei.
NATIONAL ART MUSEUM (MNAR; MUZEUL NA-
TIONAL DE ARTA) The countrys largest, and most
impressive art collection is housed inside the splendid
former Royal Palace, rst built in 1812 as a private home
by the wealthy trader Dinicu Golescu. It became a royal
residence in 1859, when it was chosen as the site of the
court of the rst prince of the united principalities, Alexan-
dru Ion Cuza. There are two permanent galleries, split over
three oors of the main building. National Art (itself di-
vided into Medieval Romanian Art - featuring icons, carved
altars, illustrated manuscripts and bibles, and fragments of
frescoes, and Modern Romanian Art, with all of Romanias
greatest 20th century artists well represented, including
Theodor Aman, Constantin Brancui, Gheorghe Patracu,
and Gheorghe Tattarescu); and European Paintings and
Sculpture, which plays host to a ne collection of Old Eu-
ropean Masters from all of the major schools. The museum
also hosts a ne selection of temporary exhibitions. QB/C-
5, Calea Victoriei 49-53, tel. (+4) 021 313 30 30/(+4) 021
314 81 19, www.mnar.arts.ro. Open April 10:00-18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Open May 11:00-19:00. Closed Mon,
Tue. Admission 8 lei for The Gallery of European Art, 10 lei
for The National Gallery (Treasure included) and 15 lei for
combined tickets (both galleries).
PEASANT MUSEUM (MUZEUL TARANULUI RO-
MAN) The Peasant Museum is one of the most enjoyable
in Bucharest, and one of the best in the country. Housed
in a wonderful red brick building designed by Nicolae
Ghica-Budeti dating from 1912, the museum oers a
range of exhibitions showing you all you need to know
about the diverse and fascinating history of life around
the Romanian countryside over the past four centuries.
There are exhibitions covering all aspects of Romanian
peasant life, from handpainted Easter eggs to terracotta
pottery, from colourful religious icons to a huge range of
traditional clothing. Replicas of some of what is on display
can be bought in the excellent museum shop. Fittingly
for the building that from 1948-89 was home to the Mu-
seum of the Communist Party and Romanian Revolutionary
Workers Movement, there is a collectivisation exhibition in
the basement. The Peasant Museum hosts excellent craft
fairs in its courtyard at least once a month. It also puts on
childrens puppet shows at weekends (usually at 10:30 and
12:00, both Saturday and Sunday) and has a terrace cafe.
QB-3, os. Kiselef 3, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 317
96 61, www.muzeultaranuluiroman.ro. Open 10:00 -
18:00. Closed Mon. Last admission 17:00. Admission 8
lei, students and children 2 lei, pensioners 4 lei. Audio
guides are available in English, French, German and
Romanian, from 12 lei. Entrance to the craft fairs (held
every month or so) usually costs around 6 lei.
VILLAGE MUSEUM (MUZEUL NAIONAL AL
SATULUI DIMITRIE GUSTI) Founded in 1936 and cov-
ering 15 hectares on the shores of Lake Herstru, Muzeul
Satului is one of the greatest outdoor museums in the Bal-
kans. There are more than 60 original houses, farmsteads,
windmills, watermills and churches from all of Romanias
historic regions: Transylvania, Oltenia, Dobrogea and Molda-
via. Every exhibit has a plaque showing exactly where in Ro-
mania it was brought from. Some even now have recorded
commentary in four languages (if the stickers are missing,
press the second button for English). Most of the houses
date from the mid 19th-century, but there are some, such
as those from Berbeti, in the heart of Romania - celebrated
for their intricately carved entrances - which date from as
early as 1775. The highlight of the museum is probably the
steep belfry of the wooden Maramure church, complete
with exquisite but faded icons. You should also not miss
the earth houses of Straja, dug in to the ground and topped
with thatched roofs. The museum has a great souvenir shop,
and stalls selling traditional Romanian sweets and cakes. It
even has a restaurant, La Francu, set in a 19th-century inn.
Children love the museum, and it makes for a perfect fam-
ily outing. QA-2, Sos. Kiselef 28-30, MAviatorilor, tel.
(+4) 021 317 91 10, www.muzeul-satului.ro. Open April
09:00 - 19:00, Mon 09:00 - 17:00. Open May 09:00-19:00,
Mon 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 10 lei, pensioners 5 lei, stu-
dents/children 2.50 lei. Audio guides available for 50 lei,
guided tours in English, French, Spanish, Italian, Russian
300 lei: call in advance. Note that while the museum is
open on Mondays, the houses are not.
BUILDINGS WITH A HISTORY
Bucharest has a number of curious, historical buildings,
which t none of our other categories all that well.
As a result, weve thrown them all to together here, under
the heading Buildings with a history.
ARCUL DE TRIUMF Bucharests Arc de triumf was raised
in 1922 to commemorate Romanias World War I dead. The
original Arc was made of wood, replaced by the present,
Petru Antonescu designed concrete structure only in 1935.
Standing 25 metres high, the Arc has a staircase that allows
visitors to climb to the terrace on the top of the monu-
ment, though it is strangely closed most of the time and
only opened on special occasions (usually on national
holidays). The sculptures and reliefs that decorate the
monument were created by the leading artists of the day,
including Ion Jalea, Constantin Medrea and Constantin
Baraschi. The Arc is currently being renovated, and a pe-
destrian underpass built which will allow people to get to
it without risking their lives. QA-2, Piata Arcul de Triumf,
MAviatorilor.
ATHENEUM (ATENEUL ROMN) Possibly the n-
est building in the city, the Romanian Atheneum, with its
sublime baroque cupola, stands proudly at the ux of the
citys busiest public square, competing with the Athenee
Palace Hilton hotel, the Royal Palace and the old national
library for attention. The work of French architect Albert
Galleron, who also designed the National Bank of Roma-
nia, the building was inaugurated on February 26, 1888,
and was built almost entirely with money donated by
ordinary citizens of the capital, when a campaign called
Give a penny for the Atheneum (Dati un leu pentru Ateneu)
rescued the project from folly after the original patrons ran
out of funds. Today the seat of the Romanian Philarmonic
George Enescu, the auditorium can seat 800 spectators
comfortably, and is renowned worldwide for its outstand-
ing acoustics. QC-5, Str. Benjamin Franklin 1-3, tel. (+4)
021 315 25 67, www.fge.org.ro. Open 14:00 - 16:00.
CASA PRESEI LIBERE (CASA SCNTEII)
An impressive edice standing somewhat menacingly at
the entrance to the capital, Casa Scanteii (as it is still uni-
versally known) was designed by architect Horia Maicu
and completed in 1956, one year after the strikingly similar
(though much taller) Palace of Science andCulture in Warsaw,
Poland. Originally housing the editorial oces of almost all
of the capitals newspapers, it today carries out pretty much
the same function. The impressive archive of Rompres, the
state press and photo agency, is also housed here. The fa-
cade has in recent years been defaced by the addition of
advertising hoardings. QA-1, Piata Presei Libere 1.
CEC The home of the National Savings Bank (Casa de
Economii si Consemnaiuni; CEC) is one of the most fabu-
lous Neo-Classical facades in the city: the enormous arch
that houses the entrance, with its mighty Corinthian col-
umns, is a highlight of any architectural tour of Bucharest.
Built during the last decade of the nineteenth century, to
the designs of French architect Paul Gottereau, the build-
ing is no less impressive on the inside, not least the huge
entrance hall with its sensational glass roof, and dome that
nods towards the style of later Byzantine cathedrals.QB-4,
Calea Victoriei 13.
PALATUL DIN PIATA VICTORIEI (PALATUL VICTO-
RIEI) Today the home of the Romanian government, this
linear construction was built in 1937 to the design of Duiliu
Marcu, originally to house the Foreign Ministry (which is
now elsewhere). Note that ever since several thousand un-
invited coal miners trashed the place in 1991, entrance to
the building has been granted only to those on government
business. QB-4, B-dul Ilie Pintilie 1, MPiata Victoriei.
HISTORIC CHURCHES
ANTIM MONASTERY (MANASTIREA ANTIM)
The splendid Antim Monastery, with its elegant dome and
gold nish was constructed between 1708 and 1715 on
the orders of polymath Antim Ivireanul, patriarch of the
Orthodox Church in Wallachia at the time. Antim originally
intended the monastery to be a refuge for fallen women
and refugees, as well as a seat of learning. The bell tower
through which we today enter the monastery was added in
1857. The monastery church is particularly worth admiring
for its icons featuring the Nativity and Revelations, painted
in 1812 by Petre Alexandrescu.QB-6, Str. Antim 29.
Sightseeing
APOSTLES CHURCH (BISERICA SFINTII APOS-
TOLI) One of the oldest churches in Bucharest (with
parts dating back to the 16th century, when it served
as the church of the Trnovului Monastery) the Apostles
Church is notable for its sublime steeple, built in 1715 and
restored in 1936. Inside the church is brimming with some
rather strange portraits, all of which are well worth see-
ing. Among the portraits are those of the churchs founder,
Voivod Matei. QB-6, Str. Sfntii Apostoli 33A, MPiata
Unirii.
ARMENIAN CHURCH (BISERICA ARMENEASC)
Now overlooked by a hideous skyscraper, this is never-
theless one of the largest and best preserved Orthodox
churches in central Bucharest. The church (built between
1911-15) is an exact replica of a cathedral in the Armenian
city of Ecmiazin, and serves the citys once large but now
miniscule Armenian population. Next to the church is
an interesting library with a large number of documents
relating to the Armenian population (phone ahead for
access). QD-5, B-dul Carol I 43, tel. (+4) 021 313 90 70,
www.armenianchurch.ro.
BARATIEI CHURCH (BISERICA BARATIEI)
Almost poking into Bulevardul Bratianu, this particular
Roman-Catholic church was built in 1828, although there
has been a church here since the late 1590s. Boasting a
couple of superb stained-glass windows the church holds
services in Romanian and Hungarian. The name, Baratiei,
derives from the Hungarian word for friend, barat. QC-6,
Str. Baratiei 27, MPiata Unirii/Universitate.
BUCUR CHURCH First built perhaps as early as 1416, this
could well be the site of the oldest church in Bucharest.
Nobody is exactly sure how long there has been a church
here, but we do know that it predates the Radu Voda
monastery opposite, which was rst constructed in 1506.
Today, the Bucur Church is often ignored, hidden as it is on
a hill above the street and hemmed in by two blocks. The
current church was built around 1720 (thoroughly reno-
vated in 1909-10) to serve as a chapel for the cemetery
of the Radu Voda monastery. The church - and the hill on
which it stand were recently consolidated in order to pre-
vent them falling further towards the Dambovita river, just
a few metres behind. The church is named for Bucur the
Shepherd, the legendary founder of Bucharest. QC-7, Str.
Radu Voda 33, www.biserica-bucur.ro.
COLEA CHURCH (BISERICA COLEA) To the left
(face on) of the Colea hospital, the church of the same
name was built from 1701-2 on the site of an older, wooden
construction. Recent renovation has restored much of
the rich ornamentation of the interior, most of which was
painted in 1876 by Gheorghe Tattarescu. Look out for the
Cantacuzino family crest above the vaguely Italian baroque
portal. The church (like the hospital which surrounds it) was
founded by courtier Mihai Cantacuzino. A statue of Canta-
cuzino stands just inside the entrance to the hospital court-
yard. QC-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 1, MUniversitate.
CREULESCU CHURCH (BISERICA CREULESCU)
Probably the most celebrated historic church in Bucharest.
Biserica Creulescu was raised from 1720-2 by Iordache
Creulescu and his wife Safta, a daughter of Romanian
ruler Constantin Brncoveanu. The outstanding paintings
on the entrance are original, the work of an unknown art-
ist, while the interior icons were added in 1859 by the pro-
lic Gheorghe Tattarescu. Damaged during the ghting
of December 1989, the church has recently been restored
to its full glory, and is a must. QC-5, Calea Victoriei 47,
MUniversitate.
DOMNIA BALAA CHURCH
To say this church has been the victim of bad luck is an
understatement. Built in 1885, the church is named after
Constantin Brncoveanus sixth daughter, who built an ear-
lier church on the site in 1744, but which burnt down soon
after. In 1751 a second church was built; but that was also
later damaged, during an earthquake in 1838. Building work
almost immediately started on a third church, but that too
proved unstable and just 40 years later it was replaced by
the current, orange-coloured, Neo-Romanesque building.
Serious cracks that appeared after another earthquake in
1940 were repaired in the 1960s, only to be damaged again
in the massive earthquake of 1977.QB-6, Str. Sfntii Apos-
toli, MPiata Unirii.
ICON CHURCH (BISERICA ICOANEI)
The Church of the Icon is named after the 17th century
icon of the Holy Virgin in the nave, a gift from Constantin
Brncoveanu. A wooden church was built on this site as
early 1681-82, the rst brick church being erected in 1745-
50, only for it to collapse during a devastating earthquake
in 1838. Rebuilt the same year, the high altar was added
in 1850. Note the grave of General Ioan Odobescu (1793-
1857) alongside the church, adorned with a helmet. QC-
4, Str. Icoanei 12.
ITALIAN CHURCH (CHIESA ITALIANA/BISERICA
ITALIAN) Juxtaposed by 1930s blocks on the busiest
street in the city, the red brick Italian church looks a little
uncomfortable in its setting. Look at it from the other side
of the road however, and its glorious Neo-Gothic exterior,
complete with Florentine tower is quite stunning. The in-
terior is nothing of note, but acts as a lovely refuge from
the bustling street outside. The church is owned by the
Italian government. QC-5, B-dul N. Blcescu 28, MU-
niversitate. Daily services (in Romanian) at 18:00. On
Sundays, services are as follows: 09:00 (German), 10:00
(Romanian), 11:00 (Italian), 17:00 (Polish).
MIHAI VOD MONASTERY (MNSTIREA MIHAI
VOD) One of the churches that was moved to make
way for the Civic Centre, Mihai Vod was originally built
in 1601. After a re in 1761 it was left to rot before thor-
ough rebuilding was carried out from 1827-38. In 1985 it
was moved 285 metres east - on rails - and hidden in its
present location behind the apartment blocks. QB-6, Str.
Sapienei 2, MIzvor.
NEW ST. GEORGES CHURCH (BISERICA SF. GHE-
ORGHE NOU)
The largest of the churches built in Bucharest during the
reign of Constantin Brncoveanu, New St. Georges Church
was consecrated on June 29th, 1707. It was a wonder of
the age, having been designed by an Italian, Vaseleli, and
decorated by the great Romanian maestros of the times:
the painter Mutu, the carpenter Istrate and the sculptor
Caragea. Damaged in a re in 1847, the church was reno-
vated from 1852-3 by the Spanish architect Villacrosse.
New and outstanding interior murals were added by Mar-
ian Popp. Brncoveanu is himself allegedly buried under
the church, in an unmarked grave. QC-6, Piata Sf. Gheo-
rghe, MPiata Unirii.
NEW ST. JOHNS CHURCH (BISERICA SFANTUL
IOAN NOU)
Entirely hidden by blocks, few visitors to - or even residents
of - Bucharest are even aware of this churchs existence.
It is in fact right in the centre of the city, opposite Unirea
Shopping Centre, behind the Raifeissen bank on the corner
of B-dul Corneliu Coposu and B-dul I. C. Bratianu. Founded
in 1774 the small church boasts two exterior frescoes as
well as a richly ornamental interior, complete with golden
altar. One of the churchs wooden icons dates from 1711
and was formerly housed in the Sarindar Church (situ-
ated where the Cercul Militar is today). QC-6, Piata Unirii,
MPiata Unirii.
PATRIARCHAL CATHEDRAL (PATRIARHIA)
Set atop one of the citys few hills, known as Mitropoliei,
the Patriarchal Cathedral has been the centrepiece of the
Romanian Orthodox faith since the seventeenth century.
Built to a design based on the Curtea de Arges, near Pitesti,
it has undergone a number of facelifts over the years, but
the overwhelming majority of the cathedrals structure is
the original, built between 1654 and 1658. The outstanding
bell-tower at the entrance was built in 1698, and restored in
1958. Next to the church - and closed to the public - is the
Patriarchal Palace, residence of Daniel Ciobotea, the Patri-
arch of the Romanian Orthodox Church. It was built in 1708.
QC-6/7, Str. Dealul Mitropoliei, MPiata Unirii.
RADU VOD MONASTERY (MNSTIREA RADU
VOD)
The church of the former Radu Vod Monastery stands on
a hill on the banks of the Dmbovia, though the construc-
tion of the Civic Centre hid it from the river and from gen-
eral view. There was originally a wooden church on this
site, built during the reign of Mihnea the Bad, around 1508.
The monastery was added in 1570, and was dedicated to
the Holy Trinity. The present church - which resembles
the Curtea de Arge, outside Piteti - dates from 1613-4,
though it was extensively rebuilt during the 19th century,
when the frescoes (all the work of peerless painter Gheo-
rghe Tattarescu) were added. QC-6, Str. Radu Vod 24A,
MPiata Unirii.
SCHITUL DARVARI (DARVARI HERMITAGE)
The walled Schitul Darvari - with its lovely grounds - is
a gorgeous oasis of peace and quiet in busy central Bu-
charest. Founded in 1834 by Mihai Darvari and his wife
Elena - who purchased the site from the Biserica Icoanei - it
was originally a private church for the Darvari family and
their close acquaintances. Renovated extensively in 1894
and again from 1933-4, a community of monks lived here
continuously from 1835 to 1959, when they were forced to
move to Cernica Monastery by Romanias communist au-
thorities. Made a national monument in 1992 the church
is richly decorated both inside and out. QC-5, Str. Schitul
Darvari 3, www.schituldarvari.ro. Open 07:30 - 19:30.
MUSEUMS
ART COLLECTION MUSEUM (MUZEUL COLECTI-
ILOR DE ART) Firstly, a few words about the building.
The Casa Romanit was constructed in 1822 as a private
residence, before being bought by the state in 1883 to
serve as the countrys supreme court. There are presently
some fantastic works on show here, including paintings
by all of Romanias greatest artists, from Nicolae Grigore-
scu to Theodor Pallady. In terms of artistic importance the
collections here are second only to those at the National
Museum of Art. QB-4, Calea Victoriei 111, tel. (+4) 021
212 96 41/(+4) 021 212 96 42. Open 11:00-19:00. Closed
Thu, Fri. Admission 7.00 lei, students/children 3.50 lei.
COTROCENI MUSEUM
Constructed from 1888-93 at the behest of Romanias rst
king, Carol I, Cotroceni Palace has since 1991 been the of-
cial residence of the Romanian President. Built on the
site of a former monastery (the foundations and cellars of
which remain, and form part of the tour of the palace), the
palace was designed by a French team of architects, led
by Paul Gottereau. The design would form something of
a blueprint for Romanian domestic architecture for years
to come. It served as the Bucharest residence of the Ro-
manian royal family until 1939. Part of the palace is open
to the public, and can be visited on a tour. You will see
a number of function rooms, many of which were deco-
rated to the whims of Marie, the English wife of Carols heir,
his nephew Crown Prince Ferdinand.QB-dul Geniului 1,
MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 021 317 31 07, www.muzeulco-
troceni.ro. Open 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission
27.00 lei, students and children 21.00 lei. Admission in-
cludes entrance and the compulsory guided tour. Tours
are available in Romanian, French and English. Last tour
begins at 16:30.
GEOLOGY MUSEUM
Far more than just a collection of old rocks and fossils, Bu-
charests Geology Museum is one of the citys must sees.
First o, there is the museum building itself to admire. Built
in 1906 on the orders of King Carol I to house what was
then known as the Royal Romanian Geology Society, the
building is a splendid example of Neo-Brancovenesque
architecture, and is far more impressive than its red-brick
neighbour, the Peasant Museum. The museums perma-
nent collections are impressive in size and - being logically
presented - clarity, with a decent number of English cap-
tions. The museum is also one of the most active in the
city, playing host to varied and never less than fascinating
temporary exhibitions. It also runs creative workshops for
children some Saturday mornings. QB-3, Sos. Kiselef 2,
MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 212 89 52, www.geology.
ro. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8.00 lei,
students and children 4.00 lei. There is an extra charge
for cameras of 30 lei. Guided tours in Romanian 20 lei,
English and French 30 lei.
MINOVICI MUSEUM OF ANCIENT WESTERN ART
(MUZEUL DE ARTA VECHE APUSEANA ING. D.
MINOVICI) This amazing red brick, mock-Tudor house
holds the small yet stunning renaissance art collection
CONTEMPORARY ART GALLERIES
GALATECA GALLERY (NEOGALATECA GAL-
LERY-SHOP) A gallery of applied art, housed in the rath-
er splendid University Library on Piata Revolutiei. Features
local and international contemporary artists, while the
NeoGalateca shop sells fashion, accessories and designer
objects from names including Muuto, Pols Potten, Seletti
and ToyWatch, as well as local designers Andreea Badala
(Murmur), Carla Szabo, Lucian Broscatean, Miki Puran (Ma-
racuja), Cosmina Nicolescu (Fandacsia), Agnes Keszeg and
Ciprian Vrabie. QC-5, Str. C.A. Rosetti 2-4, tel. (+4) 0376
20 31 77, www.galateca.ro. Open 12:00 20:00, Sat
11:00 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
ZORZINI GALLERY Fine contemporary art gallery
working with both established and emerging Roma-
nian artists that correspond to the gallerys aesthetic
agenda, which includes graphics, painting, installation
and mixed media. Currently represents Nicolae Co-
manescu, Andrei Gamart and Oana Lohan. QC-5, Str.
Thomas Masaryk 31, tel. (+4) 0727 89 07 20, www.
zorzinigallery.com. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
PLBSW
of Dumitru Minovici, who made barrels of lei in the oil
business in the 1930s. Inside are ne collections of Bel-
gian tapestries, Dutch furniture, Swiss stained glass, a
complete library and Italian paintings from the 16th/17th
centuries. The house itself is a thing of wonder, from the
stained glass windows to the wooden balustrades and
overgrown garden. To get there, walk north-east from
Piaa Presei Libere or take bus No. 131, 301, 335 or 783 to
the Mioria Fountain. QStr. Dr. Minovici 3, tel. (+4) 021
665 73 34. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed.
Free admission.
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART
(MNAC; MUZEUL NATIONAL DE ARTA CONTEM-
PORANA)
Making excellent use of the wide open spaces of the Par-
liament Palace, this vast gallery displays the work of Ro-
manias nest contemporary artists. There are also works
on display by international artists, and regular topical ex-
hibitions. We think its one of the highlights of the citys
cultural scene and a visit here has the added bonus of get-
ting you into the Casa Poporului without taking the guided
tour. QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 1, entrance E4 (Palatul
Parlamentului), MIzvor, tel. (+4) 021 318 91 37, www.
mnac.ro. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admis-
sion 10 lei. Free entrance for children.
NATIONAL TECHNICAL MUSEUM (MUZEUL
TEHNIC DIMITRIE LEONIDA)
Often unfairly derided as an outdated museum of technol-
ogy, it should be remembered that the machines, turbines,
inventions and gadgets on display here are not meant to
be cutting edge. At least not in this day and age. They
were all, however, cutting edge when they rst appeared,
with some of the older steam engines dating back to the
beginning of the 19th century. The museum is housed in
something of a cherished relic itself: the last remaining pa-
vilion (of many) built to host the 1906 Romania Fair. QC-7,
Str. Gen. Candiano Popescu 2, tel. (+4) 021 336 93 90.
Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 4.00
lei, students, children 2.00 lei.
THEODOR PALLADY MUSEUM (CASA MELIK,
MUZEUL THEODOR PALLADY)
Theodor Pallady (1871-1953) was an early Cubist artist
widely regarded as Romanias most inuential 20th cen-
tury painter. Schooled in Dresden and Paris, Pallady was
inuenced by the Symbolist environment of the late 19th
century, and his paintings before 1916 contain Symbolist
motifs, sometimes with echoes of Moreau and Puvis de
Chavannes. Alas the small museum that today bears his
name has only six of his paintings, a couple of his sketches
and assorted other art. The museums saving grace is
the house in which it is hosted: the oldest in Bucharest.
Originally called the Casa Melik, it was built around 1750
by the rich Armenian Hagi Kevork Nazaretoglu.QD-5, Str.
Sptarului 22, tel. (+4) 021 211 49 79. Open 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 5.00 lei, students and chil-
dren 2.50 lei.
PARKS & GARDENS
BOTANICAL GARDENS (GRDINA BOTANIC)
Bucharests fabulous Botanical Gardens were founded in
1860 with the signicant nancial backing of Prince Al-
exandru Ioan Cuza, at the time the leader of the nascent
Romanian state. Completed in 1866 to the designs and
instructions of Ulrich Homann, they were originally in
the grounds of the Cotroceni Monastery, moving to their
present location in 1884. The garden, administratively part
of Bucharest Universitys Botanical Institute, today extends
over an area of more than 17 hectares, and hosts more
than 10,000 species of plants, approximately half of which
are cultivated in the impressive glasshouses. Of particular
note are the exotic owers (more than 1000 are on display)
and the bizarre Symphytum ottomanum, a plant which
can appear to vanish without trace only to reappear up to
50 metres away. The recently renovated glasshouses are
fabulous, and kids love the wide variety of strange plants
inside, especially the cacti and the Venus y traps. Many
locals like to take advantage of the bargain entrance fee
and use the exterior of the gardens as a park, and thus the
place can often be far more full with courting couples than
with lovers of more oral delights. Whatever your reasons
for going, its a terric place to spend a morning. QSos.
Cotroceni 32, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 021 410 91 39,
www.gradina-botanica.ro. Gardens Open 08:00-20:00.
Botanical Museum Open 10:00-15:00, 09:00-13:00 Sat,
Sun, Closed Fri. Greenhouses Open 10:00-13:00, Closed
Mon, Wed, Fri. Admission to the gardens 5.00 lei, stu-
dents and children 2.00 lei. Museum and greenhouses
cost extra: 2 lei adults, 1 leu children.
CAROL PARK (PARCUL CAROL I)
Designed in 1906 by the French landscape artist Eduard
Redont, Carol Park is today dominated by the massive
Monument to the Heroes of the Struggle for Free-
dom and Socialism (it stands 48 metres high) built in
1963 and which until 1990 housed the remains of com-
munist leaders Gheorghe Gheorghiu-Dej and Petre Groza
(it is today the site of the tomb of the unknown Romanian
soldier). The park oers some pleasant walks along tree-
lined paths, playgrounds and terraces, and a good view
of central Bucharest from the monument. The Arenele Ro-
mane in the west of the park, next to the observatory
of the Astronomic Institute of the Romanian Academy is
a popular venue for concerts. Close by is the gorgeous
Cutitul de Argint Church, built in 1796 and famous for
its many exterior icons. On the other side of the park it is
worth looking out for the medieval-looking Tepes Castle
(which in fact dates from 1906), once a water tower but
now used as oces by the Romanian Armys veterans as-
sociation. QC-7, Calea Serban Vod, MEroii Revolutiei.
CISMIGIU GARDENS (GRDINA CISMIGIU)
The most central of the citys public gardens, Cismigiu is a
haven of lawns, trees, owers and lakes. Cismigiu was rst
designed and laid out in 1845 by the German landscape ar-
chitect Carl Meyer, but not completed until 1860. More than
30,000 trees and plants were brought in from the Romanian
mountains, while exotic plants were fetched from the bo-
tanical gardens in Vienna. Highlights of the 17 hectare garden
include the Roman Garden, laid out in the style of ancient
Rome, and including busts of Romanias most famous writers,
the lake, which can be explored by rowing boat in summer
or skated upon during the winter, and Ion Jaleas French Me-
morial in Carrara marble, which commemorates those French
troops killed on Romanian territory during World War I.QB-5,
Between B-dul Regina Elisabeta, Calea Victoriei, Str. Stirbei
Vod and B-dul Schitu Mgureanu, MUniversitate.
HERSTRU PARK
Anyone who still thinks that Bucharest is a city of concrete
and cement has clearly never been to the citys lung, the in-
comparable Herastrau Park. Quite simply, this glorious park,
spread over 187 hectares around Herastrau lake is one of
the jewels in Bucharests crown, which might explain why
half of the city chooses to spend its Sunday afternoons
here. The rst thing you will see when entering the park
from Piata Charles de Gaulle is a tall, bronze, rather bizarre
statue of de Gaulle himself. Unveiled in 2006 the statue is
the work of local artist Mircea Corneliu Spataru, and was
commissioned by the Ministry of Culture to commemorate
Bucharests hosting that year of the Francophonie confer-
ence. Charles de Gaulle is not the only historic gure hon-
oured in this part of the park with a statue or bust, however.
In fact, the alleyways and paths which fan out from the en-
trance are all dotted with famous people, from Romanian
revolutionary Nicolae Balcescu to Bengali literatures most
important gure, Rabindranath Tagore. Look out also for
local artists Nicolae Grigorescu, Constantin Brancusi and
Theodor Aman, as well as writers George Cosbuc, Alexan-
dru Vlahuta and Romanias national poet, Mihai Eminescu.
Other foreigners honoured with statues include William
Shakespeare, Ady Endre, Sandor Peto and Victor Hugo.
Oh, and theres a memorial to Michael Jackson too. Yes, re-
ally.QB-3, Sos. Kiselef 32, MAviatorilor.
TINERETULUI PARK (PARCUL COPIILOR, PAR-
CUL VACARESTI) A large, mostly lovely park featuring
some of the best playgrounds in the city. Divided into two
parts, the main section (closest to Tineretului metro) oers
a few rides for kids, trampolines and dodgems, as well as
playgrounds and plenty of tree-lined avenues great for
strolling. In the middle of the park is the Sala Polivalenta
a popular venue for concerts, exhibitions and big indoor
sporting events - set above a large articial lake. Up by Sala
Polivalenta you will also nd the entrance to Oraselul Co-
piilor, a large childrens funfair, complete with big wheel
and zillions of other rides of varying scariness.QB-dul Ti-
neretului, MTineretului.
SIGHTSEEING TOURS
CULTURAL TRAVEL & TOURS
CT&T provides tailor-made heritage sightseeing tours of
Bucharest (from 29), a number of themed tours around
Wallachia and Transylvania, and several nationwide
tours of varying lengths. Other exible services and
guides in a variety of languages are available on request.
Qtel./fax (+4) 021 336 31 63, tel. (+4) 0724 71 88 48,
[email protected], www.cttours.ro.
MR. TRIPP
Mr. Tripp oers a number of terric tours, not the least of
which is the excellent value four-hour tour of Mogosoaia
and Snagov for 49, which includes the tomb of Vlad
Tepes (Dracula): notoriously dicult to get to indepen-
dently. There is also a full-day trip of Sighisoara, Brasov
and Sinaia (79), and they will even pick you up from,
and drop you o back at, your hotel for free. All entrance
fees also included. QC-5, Calea Victoriei 68-70, tel.
(+4) 0745 75 27 53, [email protected],
www.traveltobucharest.com.
ROMANIATOGO Visit Romania, pretty much all of it
with these people. Besides organising no fewer than
four tours of Bucharest (including a Communist Heri-
tage Tour) there are also loads of Romania excursions to
choose from to. These include Transylvania In One Day,
RomaniaToGo, Must See Romania and Meeting Dracula.
All tours feature free hotel pick-ups and drop-os, as
well as a local guide. Can also arrange airport transfers.
Qtel. (+4) 0733 55 78 50, [email protected],
www.romania-to-go.com.
TRANSVISION
TransVision runs a number of tours around Romania,
including a Dracula Tour which takes in Peles Castle,
Rasnov Citadel and Dracula (Bran) Castle in Transylvania.
The price is 59/person. Another option is a two-day
tour of Transylvania, also including Sibiu, Sighisoara and
Brasov. The price is 159/person and includes a night at
a three-star hotel with breakfast. All tours include free
pick-up and return from any Bucharest hotel, as well as
the services of a professional English-speaking guide
(other languages are availble on request). For both tours,
if you book online you can get a ten per cent discount.
Qtel. (+4) 0755 05 26 21, [email protected], www.
transvision.ro.
TRAVELMAKER
TravelMaker operates escorted group tours from and
around Bucharest, an airport shuttle service and private
transfers. Their half-day tour of the city (29) is an excel-
lent introduction to Bucharest. They also provide hotel
accommodation all over Romania, city break packages
and short trips. The agency oers the only daily group
tour (which anyone can join) to Peles Castle and Bran
(Draculas) Castle for 69 per person. QStr. Elena Va-
carescu 9, bl. XXI-2, tel. (+4) 021 232 03 31, (+4) 0735
52 57 10, fax (+4) 021 232 03 31, reservations@trav-
elmaker.ro, www.bucharestcitytour.com. Open 09:00
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Old Town
Z Boutique
K&K
Elisabeta
Novotel
Grand
Continental
Capitol
Majestic
Casa Capsa
Central
Cismigiu
Opera
History
Museum
Domnita
Balasa
Old Court Palace
& Church Cocor
Baratiei
Coltea Church
& Hospital
Russian
Church
Stavropoleos
Church
Sf. Dumitru
Doamnei
Mihai Voda
Museum of
Bucharest
Rembrandt
Tania
Europa Royale
Old Town - which most locals call Centru Vechi (Old Centre)
- is a little pocket of 19th and early 20th century Bucharest
which survived both the bombing of World War II and the
bulldozers of Romanias communist planners. It is described
by Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta and Piata Universitatii to the
north, Bulevardul IC Bratianu to the east, the river to the
south and Calea Victoriei to the west. Not more than one
kilometre square, the area boasts more restaurants, pubs
and clubs than any other district in the city.
GETTING THERE
You can walk to the Old Town from most parts of the city
centre. Two metro stations serve the area: Piata Universitatii
to the north and Piata Unirii to the south. Note that most
of the Old Towns streets are pedestrianised, with access for
vehicles strictly limited. There is an underground car park at
Piata Universitatii, accessed via Strada Doamnei. Taxis will
usually drop you o at what is known as La Bariera (at the
bottom end of Strada Selari) or at the National Bank. When
leaving the Old Town always be careful to take an honest
taxi: see page 10 for more on taxis in Bucharest.
OLD TOWN WALK
Begin your exploration of Old Town at the four statues in
Piata Universitatii, before heading to the Russian Church
(ocially called the St. Nicholas Students Church). From
here, its worth popping along to the Museum of Bucha-
rest in the Sutu Palace before doubling back along Strada
Old Town
Ion Ghica until you get to the National Bank, on the other
side of which is the majestic Pasajul Macca-Villacrosse, and
Strada Lipscani: the street whose name is often used to
describe the whole Old Town area. Then make sure you
head along Strada Stavropoleos to see its architectural
gems: the church which shares its name and the Caru cu
Bere pub and restaurant. Head out on to Calea Victoriei to
take a look at the Zlatari Church, National History Museum
and CEC building before coming back into the Old Town
via Strada Franceza and the Sf. Dumitru Church. At the far
end, in Piata Sf Anton, is the Old Court Palace and Church:
the very raison detre of the entire Old Town area. The Hanul
Manuc is opposite. For more details on all of the sights you
will spot along the way, see the Old Town Sights listings.
OLD TOWN CAFES
BRUNO WINE & COFFEE SHOP So much more than
wine and coee on oer here you will be forgiven for
thinking you have the wrong place! This is a bistro really, a
genuine French style place, where good wine by the glass
is available next to a decent spread of simple food, with
a regularly changing menu.QC-6, Str. Covaci 3, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 317 17 41/(+4) 0757 55 72 91, www.
brunowine.ro. Open 16:00 - 24:00. PBSW
FRENCH BAKERY Bucharests smartest chain of baker-
ies comes to Old Town, complete with its ne selection of
sandwiches, delicious tarts and cakes, great coee and a
super terrace - in the right weather - outside on the sexi-
est part of Old Town. Could be just about the best place
in Bucharest for coee, regardless of the time of day.
QC-6, Str. Smardan 13, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021
316 10 27, www.frenchbakery.ro. Open 09:30 - 24:00.
PBSW
GODOT CAFE TEATRU Cafe, bistro and theatre on
Strada Blanari in the Old Town. There are performances
every day (with matinees at weekends) of all sorts of plays,
from Shakespeare to Neil Simon and contemporary Ro-
manian productions, and feature plenty of top local act-
ing talent. Even actors used to bigger stages make a habit
of performing here in the uniquely intimate auditorium.
Theres some good simple food too, such as pasta, salads,
omelettes: that kind of thing. A highly recommendable
experience.QC-6, Str. Blanari 14, tel. (+4) 021 316 16 82,
www.godotcafeteatru.ro. Open 12:00 - 05:00. Box of-
fce open daily 12:00-19:00. PW
GRADINA HANULUI MANUC The courtyard at the Ha-
nul lui Manuc is without question one of the most amazing
places to eat and drink in Bucharest, especially the tables on
the balconies overlooking the main part of the courtyard.
Whats more, you can choose from the menus of any of the
Hans restaurants and cafes.QC-6, Str. Franceza 62, MP-ta
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0769 07 58 44/(+4) 021 313 14 11, www.
hanulluimanuc.ro. Open 11:00 - 01:00. BSW
GRAND CAFE VAN GOGH Amazing how quickly this
place became the default Bucharest meet you there venue.
Its genius is that its ideal at every time of day: morning cof-
fee or breakfast sat in front of one of the long windows, a
business lunch at one of the wooden tables, a meal and
a late night at the bar. The food is good - simple and very
reasonably priced - and this Dutch owned, friendly cafe is
a winner: you will go back more than once. There is also a
specialist wine bar downstairs, meeting and function rooms
upstairs, and they now do a great brunch, on Saturday and
Sunday from 10:00-16:00.QC-6, Str. Smardan 9, MUniver-
sitate, tel. (+4) 031 107 63 71, www.vangogh.ro. Open
08:30 - 24:00, Fri 08:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun
10:00 - 24:00. Non-smoking lounge open 17:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 -24:00. PSW
Old Town
KLEIN CAFE Good cafe situated on the mezzanine oor
of the Rembrandt hotel; it is the only non-smoking cafe in
the Old Town we believe. They serve a great continental
breakfast until 10am, with a vast selection of croissants,
muns, Dutch cheeses, meats, yoghurts, cereals and
freshly squeezed orange juice, while throughout the rest
of the day fresh, warm waes are served with a choice
of toppings.QC-6, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro. Open 07:00 -
24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PGSW
LES BOURGEOIS A veritable Strada Smardan legend of a
venue, whose longevity is a credit to its management who
keep rethinking and reinventing the menu and making sure
there is always good reason to come and eat, drink or just have
one of over 30 (we counted) coees here. Foodwise, there is
plenty to choose from: so much in fact that making individual
recommendations is pointless. Everyone will nd something
they like. Top desserts, too. QC-6, Str. Smardan 20, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 310 60 52, www.lesbourgeois.ro. Open
10:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. PSW
VALEA REGILOR Thick Turkish coee served in one of
Calea Victorieis grand old passages. Alongside the coee
and cakes - sweet and sickly but irresistible - you can also
get your hands on a Nargile, those Turkish water pipes.QB-
4, Calea Victoriei 16-20 (Pasajul Villacrosse), MUniversi-
tate, tel. (+4) 021 311 29 69, www.valea-regilor.ro. Open
09:00 - 03:00. NBSW
OLD TOWN RESTAURANTS:
FINE DINING
MULANRUJ DINING THEATRE & CLUB Upstairs
at Bordellos is the Mulanruj Dining Theatre, a dinner and
events venue where there is regular cabaret, stand-up
comedy, live music and theme parties and such like. There
is a wide range of dining options, and the food - as you
would expect from the people who run Bordellos - is very
good. Details about coming events from Bordellos or the
venues Facebook page.QC-6, Str. Selari 9-11, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0748 88 10 85, www.bordellos.ro. Open
19:00 - 24:00. . PEW
THE ARTIST RESTAURANT Food as art: a rst for Bu-
charest and a rst for Romania. The work of a young Dutch
chef, this amazing restaurant is something special. The
menu changes with the seasons, and the Atlantic salmon
with coconut and mushrooms is probably our pick of the
current menu, alongside the baby rooster with chick-
peas and lemon. The restaurant oers a tasting menu for
those who want to try all the main courses currently be-
ing served. In keeping with the food the restaurant itself
is contemporary and upmarket, a mix of the bright and
the simple, chic without ever going over the top. Prices
reect the amazing quality.QC-6, Str. Nicolae Tonitza 13,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0728 31 88 71, www.theartist.
ro. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. . PW
FOOD & DRINK
BURGERBAR Not just another Bucharest burger bar, this
place could well be the Bucharest burger bar. Served with
fantastic, chunky, Belgian-style fries and Heinz ketchup
they have gone the extra mile here. The desserts would
be worthy of a gourmet restaurant: you havent eaten a
fudge in Bucharest until youve tried the one theyre serv-
ing here. Add in funky contemporary decor and you have
a place we are more than happy to recommend.QC-6, Str.
Lipscani (Pasajul Selari), MPiata Universitatii, tel. (+4)
021 313 03 76. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00.
. PSW
EMBASSY HANUL CU TEI Making very good use of the
courtyard of Hanul cu Tei, always one of our favourite parts
of Lipscani, Embassy is a terrace (in summer) and indoor
lounge which serves food and drink to an older, wiser and
simply nicer crowd than many other places we could men-
tion in Old Town. Good bistro food, decent cocktails and
reasonable prices. For those in the know, this is the sister es-
tablishment of the original Embassy on Piata Lahovari.QC-6,
Str. Lipscani 63-65, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0733 50 03
03, www.embassy-hanulcutei.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00.
. PSW
FRENCH
BON Fabulous food in a wonderful setting, created using
antique doors and window frames, the work of the de-
signer du jour in this part of the world, who also came up
with the concept for Energiea, Atelier Mecanic, Biutiful and
La Bonne Bouche (to which it bears a passing resemblance).
The food is worthy of the surroundings: the onion soup
with Gruyere is amazing, the New Zealand lamb chops ten-
der, and the mussels fresh. Prices are reasonable given the
quality, although if you hit the oysters and champagne of
course the bill will be high!QC-6, Str. Smardan 33, MPi-
ata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 367 21 98, www.bonrestaurant.
ro. Open 12:30 - 24:00. Closed Mon. . PSW
LA BONNE BOUCHE Does what it does - simple French
bistro food - better than anywhere else in the city. Try the
sublime onion soup, calves liver with sage and garlic mash
and the lemon meringue pie. Look for the chefs specials
too. An open kitchen is always a good sign, and we love the
variety of reading material in the toilets. Just a brilliantly
simple place. Note that they accept Amex cards: not every-
where does in Bucharest.QC-6, Str. Franceza 30, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0731 24 78 76, www.labonnebouche.ro.
Open 12:00 - 23:30. . PESW
GERMAN
BRAUHAUS 41 If you like a tasty bit of German sausage
(and lets face it, who doesnt?) then this is the place to
head for if you are in Old Town. There is much else besides
sausage on the menu, however, and if you add in tremen-
dous beer and good prices you have another reason to
Old Town Old Town
hail Strada Smardan as the citys top entertainment street.
Worth checking out.QC-6, Str. Smardan 41, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0725 52 30 81. Open 09:00 - 03:00. .
PSW
GREEK
MEZE TAVERNA Another excellent Greek restaurant. It
even looks the part - we love the lampshades made from
empty olive oil cans - while the food itself is seriously,
seriously good. There is tons of seafood on the gorgeous
menu (the sh soup and the prawns with tomatoes and
cheese are musts), alongside what is some of the best
lamb weve eaten in Bucharest. The Greek burger is a nice
treat too. The chef, Georgios, is always coming up with
tasty daily specials, so ask your waiter whats cooking.
The house red is a drinkable bargain.QC-6, Str. Nicolae
Tonita 6, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 539 53 53, www.
mezetaverna.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00. . PESW
HUNGARIAN
ST. GEORGE This has long been one of our favourite res-
taurants, a place that had the vision to open up a good
year or two before Old Town became fashionable. The
food is excellent, authentic Hungarian cuisine, featuring a
wealth great dishes - try the mutton stew with dumplings
- and a wine list that oers the very best Hungarys vine-
yards have to oer. Cracking open a bottle of Tokaji Aszu
is the perfect way to end an evening here. Live music is
provided by a happy, table wandering troupe every night.
QC-6, Str. Francez 44, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 317
10 87, www.stgeorge.ro. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 01:00. . PESW
INDIAN
NEW
LITTLE INDIA
It was about time Old Town got itself a decent curry house,
and Little India is it. From the same people who have been
cooking up rst class Indian food at Karishma for more
than a decade now, this superb place has quickly become
the talk of Lipscani. Expect a similar menu to the one at
Karishma, including a couple of searing vindaloos, and a
lamb rogan josh to rival that of any Indian anywhere. Plen-
ty for vegetarians, and the mango shake is a treat.QC-6,
Str. Franceza 7, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0720 78 67 86.
Open 12:00 - 23:30. . PVSW
ITALIAN
COCO BONGO
Love the name, love the attitude. Looks more like a pub
from outside, and in fact it is both pub and restaurant,
the kind of place you can eat very well but nobody minds
if you just spend all night on the sauce. The food is Ital-
ian, is good if a little pricey (some of the dishes, anyway).
The pizzas are good and cheap though, and the service
good, quick and friendly. Worth a look.QC-6, Str. Covaci
1, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0754 02 04 34, www.coco-
bongo.ro. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. .
PESW
MACCHERONI
Roman cuisine served in superb surroundings in the Old
Town. The menu is big on seafood and sh, alongside a
decent selection of grilled meat and vegetables. Theres
superb antipasti - everything is made with original pro-
duce shipped in from Rome - and the pasta is freshly
made here. Good wine list too and prices are OK.QC-6, Str.
Franceza 15, tel. (+4) 0722 25 93 60, www.maccheroni.
ro. Open 12:00 - 2:00. . PSW
TRATTORIA BUONGIORNO We have always loved
Trattoria Buongiorno, and have quickly become big fans
of its most recent location in the Old Town. Decent Ital-
ian food (there is a small but good selection of sh dishes
which are well worth looking out for). and one of the big-
gest and busiest terraces in Bucharest (at the right time of
year) make it a seriously good eat and watch the world go
by type place. (And at weekends, it can feel like the whole
city is going by).QC-6, Str. Franceza 52, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 0733 11 04 64, www.trattoriabuongiorno.ro.
Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. Also at (B-2)
Str. Herstru 2; (B-4) B-dul Lascar Cartagiu 56; Baneasa
Shopping Center, 1st foor. . PBSW
VECCHIO 1812 We love it. Making fantastic use of a gor-
geous old building on Strada Covaci, this Italian restaurant
looks and feels like the kind of place you want spend all
evening in. The food is superior Italian, as you would ex-
pect from one of the citys best chefs, and while prices are
not cheap they certainly reect quality. The jacket pota-
toes in a salt crust are one of the best (and most original)
starters we have ever tasted in Bucharest. Go there.QC-6,
Str. Covaci 16, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 031 430 95 77,
[email protected], www.vecchio1812.ro. Open 11:00 -
24:30. . PSW
LEBANESE
AL SAJ Its the venue that brings the punters in: a big,
heated, glassed-in terrace which means you can eat al
fresco even while its snowing outside. The food is decent,
fairly standard Lebanese fare, no worse or better than the
many other Middle Eastern eateries in the area. Its the
location and people-watching spot you will come for.
OLD TOWN SHOPS
SOUVENIR SHOP Everything you would want from
a decent souvenir shop - with both Romania and Bu-
charest branded gifts available - and more besides. We
came across the best Dracula T-Shirts weve seen so
far here, complete with the slogan: Send more tour-
ists, the last ones tasted great. We bought two.QC-5,
Str. Smardan 13, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 32
25 40/(+4) 0723 65 55 84, www.souvenir-shop.com.
ro. Open 10:00 - 21:00.
THOMAS ANTIQUES By common consent the best
antique shop in the city. Stocks everything from fur-
niture and paintings to clocks and decorations, with
new pieces being added all the time. Upstairs you can
even drink coee, beer or cocktails in the bar: yep,
sit and drink coee on an antique chair and picture
yourself doing the same at home.QC-6, Str. Covaci
19, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0752 44 08 18, (+4) 021
310 43 89, www.thomas-antiques.ro. Open 12:00 -
22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PW
Old Town Old Town
QC-6, Str. Selari 10, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 311 90
52, www.alsaj.ro. Open 10:30 - 01:30. Fri, Sat, Sun open
24hrs. . PBSW
SINDBAD Lebanese restaurant in Old Town serving what
might just be the best lentil soup in Bucharest. Fabulous
fresh bread too (made on site) and a decent range of mut-
ton dishes as main courses. Theres both an exterior (at
the right time of year) and interior terrace, and the decor
is vaguely Middle Eastern without over-doing it. We liked
the comfy chairs.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 19, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 317 77 88, www.restaurantsindbad.ro.
Open 11:00 - 01:00. . PVSW
MEDITERRANEAN
CHARME Some of the nest food in Old Town, served
in one of the most elegant and classiest locations around.
Check out the nice little touches such as high quality
bread and olives, the high ceilings and airy atmosphere,
then order some ne, light Californian-inspired cuisine.
Its a winner from start to nish.QC-6, Str. Smardan 12,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0737 50 38 90, www.charme.
ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. .
PBSW
ROMANIAN
CARU CU BERE
Should probably be the rst stop on the food and drink list
of any visitor to Bucharest. Wonderful interiors - painted
ceilings, ornate woodwork - make the place an attraction
in itself, but do not leave without trying some food. The
breakfast is worth getting up early for, the sarmale with
mamaliga terric, and the baked apple a simple, tasty
treat. They even serve their own rather good beer. The
service is usually good (now: it never used to be; back in
the 1980s and 1990s it was infamously bad) and there is
a terrace in summer. We should also mention the touristy
but nevertheless enjoyable folklore show which takes
place most evenings.QC-6, Str. Stavropoleos 5, MU-
niversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 75 60/(+4) 0726 28 23 73,
[email protected], www.carucubere.ro. Open
08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. . PESW
CITY GRILL They call these places your dining room in
the city, and given the homely food and cheap prices (the
lunchtime deals are just about unbeatable) they might just
be right. Dont expect haute cuisine, but do expect big por-
tions of simple Romanian food. We like the carnati de plescoi,
tasty smoked sausages made with mutton and pork. Theres
a good selection of local beers to choose from too. Recently
renovated, the place itself looks better than ever too.QC-
6, Str. Lipscani 12, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0729 62 62
62, www.citygrill.ro. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 -
02:00.. Also at (B-2) B-dul Primaverii 3, tel. (+4) 021 233
98 18 and many other locations. . PVEBSW
CRAMA DOMNEASCA Right in the heart of Bucha-
rests historic centre, this is Romanian food of indeed
historic proportions. You can expect right royal portions
of all your Romanian favourites, from spare ribs and mut-
ton to tender pork steaks. The home baked bread is al-
ways served warm (if it is not, send it back) and the wine
ows copiously as evenings get longer and longer. Its the
kind of place where you will be discretely but content-
edly loosening your belt before the night is done.QC-6,
Str. Selari 13-15, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0733 15 98 46,
www.cramadomneasca.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
PVESW
LACRIMI SI SFINTI Romanian poet, revolutionary and
raconteur Mircea Dinescus latest culinary adventure is
this classy place in the Old Town. As much a showcase for
the (very good) wines Dinescu produces on his country
estate as anything else, the food is good: a selection of
traditional Romanian dishes with a big focus on game. The
prices are decent enough and though a little spartanly
furnished and decorated the ambience is good: you want
to stay way after you have nished your meal.QC-6, Str.
Sepcari 16, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0372 77 39 99, www.
lacrimisisfnti.com. Open 12:30 - 02:00, Mon 18:00 -
02:00. . PESW
MANUC BISTRO Bucharests oldest inn (and one of
only two surviving 19th century caravanserai in Europe -
the other is in Albania). Nowhere else in the city can rival
the setting, and fortunately the food is more than a match
for the surroundings. Sit in the gorgeous courtyard (when
the weather allows, of course) and enjoy a beer or good
Romanian food: dont miss the mici, the local speciality,
but there is much more besides. We rather liked the baked
duck served with stewed cabbage, and the mixed grill for
two people is good value. The orange and chocolate cake
is the pick of the desserts.QC-6, Str. Franceza 62, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 313 14 11, www.hanulluimanuc.ro.
Open 11:00 - 01:00. . PEBSW
TURKISH
DIVAN From the Middle Eastern atmosphere and superb
decor to the great service, Divan is a lesson in creating a
good restaurant. The well-priced food is good value Turk-
ish/Middle Eastern, and its very good indeed. They will
even cook you a whole lamb if you give them 24 hours
notice. We opted for the less Sultan-like beef and lamb
kebabs. Very good they were too. After your meal you
can enjoy a smoke on a hookah pipe.QC-6, Str. Franceza
46-48, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 312 30 34, www.
thedivan.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00. Also at (C-2) Calea Flo-
reasca 111-113. . PBSW
OLD TOWN BARS
Bucharests bars generally fall in one of three groups: Cock-
tail & Quirky where you will mainly nd good cocktails, a
laid-back atmosphere and the odd quirky feature, Upmar-
ket (often hotel-based) bars for business folk and those
looking to impress their dates, and Wine Bars, where ne
grape is the order of the day.
COCKTAILS & QUIRKY
55 JAZZ
Old Town likes jazz, baby. This place is not a jazz club per se
- there are not that many live events - but is instead a bohe-
mian delight where the coolest dudes in town come to chat
and enjoy the smooth easy listening sounds that get played
on the sound system while sipping cocktails or outstand-
ingly good coee. Indeed, by day the remarkable design of
this place - bright and colourful - makes it look more like a
retro Italian coee house than a smokey jazz den. We loved
the drinks menu: a nice reminder of the days of vinyl, while
the pretty waitresses are super ecient.QC-6, Str. Franceza
9, MP-ta Unirii, tel. (+4) 0731 67 27 28, www.55jazz.ro.
Open 12:00 - 04:00. PEBW
BICICLETA The name means Bicycle, and it will not take
you long to work out why: the place is by and large furnished
and decorated with parts of old bicycles. On the second
oor of a Lipscani house the place boasts a good long bar,
plenty of stools (some of which incorporate old bike seats)
and a couple of leather sofas for those who want something
a bit more comfortable. Coee by day and cocktails by night
is the order of things, and at the weekend the place has a DJ
and quite frankly rocks. Tour de France? Tour de force.QC-6,
Str. Lipscani 38, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 61 62 98.
Open 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00. PW
Old Town Old Town
GOLF PLANET Something very dierent. Its an 18-hole
crazy-golf course, with added cafe, cocktail bar and comfy
sofas. And it is all in the dark. Kind of: the lights are all uo-
rescent and futuristic. Brilliant for families during the day, at
night grab a group of mates and get down here for a game
of golf and a few beers. QC-6, Str. Halelor 5, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 021 310 64 69, www.golfplanet.ro. Open 14:00 -
24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. PW
LABORATORUL DE COCKTAILURI Our new favourite
Old Town location? Possibly. Its a cocktail bar (there is beer
too, of course, on tap, as well as hundreds of teas) where
everything has been thought out to the minutest detail.
The name means Cocktail Factory, so you get your Tom Col-
lins or Mojito or whatever takes your fancy in a conical ask,
while the bar itself looks like an old pharmacy. Unusually,
they have even invested in decent bar stools.QC-6, Str.
Stavropoleos 8, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 52 80 40.
Open 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 06:00. PNW
PAPIOTA Papiota is one of our favourite Bucharest bars. It
is at rst glance a lot like a certain other bar we will not name
(packed with odd chairs, tables and industrial bits and
bobs), but without the hipster attitude. Add in the fact that
it is a bit bigger than many Old Town bars and that late
on a Friday you stand a chance of getting in the door and
you have a top place. It also has lots of big windows, the
drinks are reasonably well priced (this is Old Town) and the
music is clubby without over- (or under-) doing it.QC-6,
Str. Lipscani 43, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 367 27 77,
www.papiota.ro. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 14:00
- 05:30. PBW
REHAB BAR
An Old Town bar has to be a bit dierent these days to grab
our attention: Rehab is just that. Its the kind of place you
see anywhere and everywhere, except in Bucharest. Until
now. With cushions on wooden steps making impromptu
seats and a sofa at the window, its just very dierent and
highly welcome. The drinks menu is done in the style of
a medical journal, and oers the usual mix of coee, tea,
cocktails and smoothies. For added quirkiness you get the
bill in a sample bottle.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 19, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0726 12 25 52. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 14:00 - 04:00. PW
UPMARKET
ENTOURAGE CENTRUL VECHI
You will like this place. A nice long bar, proper tall bar
stools and even leather armchairs for those who want to
chill. Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner from one of the
best bar menus in Bucharest: you will nd something on it
you fancy. There must be 100 lamps hanging down from
the ceiling: all dierent. Startlingly brilliant place, refresh-
ingly free of brewery branding too: always a bonus these
days.QC-6, Str. Eugen Carada 5-7, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 0722 93 79 72. Open 10:00 - 02:00. PSW
KLEIN BAR & BISTRO
Bar and bistro inside the Rembrandt hotel. Its a great place
to enjoy a drink with friends, and the location at the edge
of Bucharests newly-formed pedestrian zone makes it a
favourite for those looking for something just a little more
restful. Good bistro food too, and like the hotel itself, ev-
erything comes at very reasonable prices. Even acts as an
ad hoc Tourist Info Centre.QC-6, Str. Smardan 11, MUni-
versitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro.
Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PGW
SILK SKY BAR
One of Bucharests genuine hidden gems. On the top oor
of the itself rather discrete Z Boutique Hotel you are unlikely
to see this place in passing: you need to know about it
in advance. You can therefore really impress people with
your inside knowledge of Bucharest by bringing them
here. Expect drinks, good food, an in-the-know crowd and
ne views over Piata Universitatii.QC-5, Str. Ion Nistor 4
(Z Boutique Hotel), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 55 55
05. Open 10:00 - 2:00.
THE BAZAAR Club Tropicana. Its not every day you see
a palm tree or two in a Bucharest bar, neither are there
too many places in Old Town as big as this: theres up-
stairs (complete with comfy armchairs), downstairs, and
on warmer evenings everyone spills out on to the street
outside. On one of Old Towns less-crowded streets this
is a good alternative to the madness elsewhere. Music is
loungesque, supplied by a DJ who knows his onions. Fun
and sunshine.QC-6, Str. Covaci 10, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0721 99 99 99, www.thebazaar.ro. Open 10:00 -
02:30, Fri 10:00 - 04:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 04:30. PW
THE DRUNKEN LORDS
Its alright this place. We found a good, lively pub playing
decent music and oering a vibe a little more upmarket
than most other places in the Old Town (especially those
in and around this little alleyway). Hosts live music, sports
and regular cultural events. Not easy to nd, its worth
seeking out.QC-6, Intr. Nicolae Selari 3-5, MUniversi-
tate, tel. (+4) 0736 23 88 15, www.thedrunkenlords.ro.
Open 17:00 - 5:00. PEBSW
WINE BARS
CORKS COZY BAR Nice little wine bar tucked away on
an Old Town side street which quickly won itself a handy
following of admirers and regulars. A look at the wine list
will be enough to tell you why, oering as it does a vast
range of wines from across the world. Almost all of them
are available by the glass. The idea behind this place was
to create a wine bar where anyone - no matter how little
they know about wine - would feel welcome, comfortable
and not be intimidated. In that regard, its a total success.
QStr. Bacani 1, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 311 22 65,
www.corks.ro. Open 13:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 04:00,
Sun 13:00 - 24:00. PSW
Old Town Old Town
THOMAS ANTIQUES BAR Above the Thomas Antiques
shop in Old Town is a cafe, tea house and bar where you
can enjoy a hot white chocolate (or something stronger)
while discussing the merits of the goods youve been ad-
miring. Theres nothing quite like taking tea on an antique
chair you might end up taking home. Regular events too,
from string quartets to book launches and the like.QC-6,
Str. Covaci 19, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0752 44 08 18,
www.thomas-antiques.ro. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PW
OLD TOWN PUBS
BEER OCLOCK This little pub in Pasajul Villacrosse has
probably the biggest selection bottled beers in the city: so
it is aptly named. With brews from all over the world you
could drink a dierent beer every night for a month and
not try the same one twice. Whats more, besides the beer
they also have the appropriate glass in which to serve it:
great attention to details. Tiny, with only a few places to sit,
its worth reserving if you want to be sure of a seat. Note:
there is a much bigger Beer OClock on Strada Gabroveni
further down in Old Town. We prefer the tiny original.QC-
6, Pasajul Vilacrosse, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0767 23
33 35, www.beeroclock.ro. Open 16:00 - 02:00. Also at
(C-6) Str. Gabroveni 4. Open 17:00 - 02:00. PVSW
BIUTIFUL When you walk in, you will see where the
name comes from: it is indeed biutiful, an enormous indus-
trial-chic space with a little added glamour (check out the
lights and the comfy sofas), creating a rather special atmo-
sphere rather like an upmarket, contemporary central Lon-
don bar and grill. The food is more than decent - salads,
tapas and burgers - with the beef and horseradish sand-
wich a conrmed winner; The sh and chips wasnt bad ei-
ther. A must visit for either drinks or food, preferably both.
Note that they only take reservations up to 19:00, after
that its rst come rst served.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 6-8,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0737 29 72 97, www.biutiful.ro.
Open 12:00 - 01:00, Mon 17:00 - 01:00. PSW
BORDELLO There is always something going on here,
every night of the week. From quiz nights and live music
to the burlesque every Friday night, this is a one-stop shop
for great nights out. Theres Heineken, Murphys and Pau-
laner on tap and Sky Sports on four screens. The food is
great, with some rather special tapas, including the ribs
which are just about the best weve ever had in Bucharest.
At the weekends, head downstairs to the Boudoir, and note
that upstairs is the new Mulanruj Dining Theatre, with live
cabaret on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. You cant
miss this place by the way: just look for the tarts in their
underwear beckoning you in.QC-6, Str. Selari 9-11, MPi-
ata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0748 88 10 85, www.bordellos.ro.
Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 14:00 - 06:00,
Sun 14:00 - 02:00. PESW
EXPLORERS PUB A likeable Irish pub on Strada
Franceza whose biggest attraction - besides a more than
decent pint of Guinness - is the vast collection of maps
on the walls. We also like the fact that you can sit at the
bar on a proper bar stool, while the selection of food is
better - and more varied - than you would expect to nd
at your average pub. Very nicely done indeed.QC-6, Str.
Franceza 9, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 19 01 31, www.
explorerspub.ro. Open 12:00 - 03:00. PW
LA 100 DE BERI The name (as you might have guessed)
means 100 Beers, and thats exactly what they have here:
beer, and lots of it, from all over the world. In fact, look-
ing at the menu they have considerably more than 100
beers, and there is more besides: shorts and cocktails for
those who dont fancy a beer. Nice long, English-style bar.
QC-6, Str. Covaci 8, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0784 24 60
46. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PBW
OKTOBERFEST
What makes this place so special is how very ordinary it is.
You will nd the crowd more local than foreign - never a
bad thing - and ordinary out for a drink and a good time
locals at that, not the tze crowd. The owners try to make
something happen every night, whether its football on
the television or impromptu drinking competitions. The
house Oktoberfest beer is a bargain at 4 lei a glass. Up-
stairs is Oktoberfest 2, which has a small terrace. The club
Octopus is also inside (on the ground oor).QC-6, Str. Se-
lari 9 -11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0724 33 32 33, www.
oktoberfest-pub.ro. Open 24hrs. PNBW
RE:PUBLIC BRASSERIE
Re:Public is the best thing to happen to the Old Town in
many a day. A big, bold venue which both looks and feels
just right, its a party-central kind of place with a top selec-
tion of beer, live music downstairs in the Bierhalle and some
very good bistro food. There are top German sausages for
a start (including currywurst), alongside one of the tastiest
pork knuckles you will eat in this city. Oxtail stew and the
chocolate and Guinness mousse were the other stand-out
dishes we tried. Top draught beer selection too.QC-6, Str.
Selari 14, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0748 88 10 86, www.
therepublic.ro. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat
14:00 - 05:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. PESW
SANKT PETERSBURG PUB At the end of a well-
marked passageway on Strada Gabroveni is this place, a
bright, colourful bar and club that puts on something dif-
ferent every night of the week. Besides the long cocktail list
there are also - as you would expect for a Russian-themed
placed - no fewer than seven kinds of vodka, and they even
serve caviar pancakes. Denitely a rst in Bucharest!QC-6,
Str. Gabroveni 55, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 311 89 68/
(+4) 0729 19 18 55, www.sanktpetersburgpub.ro. Open
12:00 - 04:00. PESW
SAPPHO PUB & GARDEN
Set around a sunken courtyard just o Strada Covaci Sap-
pho boasts a large terrace (which is great in good weather)
and cavernous interior (which has various rooms, all dier-
ently themed). Hosts live music and various party nights,
and besides the beer and cocktails there is food if youre
hungry.QC-6, Str. Soarelui 3, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0754 25 33 83. Open 15:00 - 04:00. PEB
ST. PATRICK Big, well located and quite frankly cracking
Irish pub in the Old Town area: it really sets the standard for
the many others in the area. Looking every inch just like a
proper Irish boozer, its a real pub all right with decent pub
grub, Guinness and Kilkenny on tap, and more than ecient
sta who ensure you do not have to wait long for a drink.
Look out for the St. Patrick Party Room on the other side of
the street: a kind of mini-St. Patrick. Quirky and cool.QC-6,
Str. Smardan 23-25, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 313 03
36/(+4) 0755 11 00 08, www.stpatrick.ro. Open 11:00 -
02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PBSW
THE PUB - UNIVERSITATII
Good food and drink in a big, lively pub right on Piata
Universitatii: very much Bucharests beating heart. The
food in fact is what perked our interest in the rst place:
we had heard about the amazing burgers and just had to
come and try them. We can conrm that The Pub serves
one of Bucharests best burgers. There are wings, ribs and
salads too, while on the beer front there is Staropramen,
Stella, Hoegaarden, Lee and Becks on tap. We also liked the
fact that you can reserve the exat table you want directly
on the venues website. A Bucharest rst, we think.QC-5,
Regina Elisabeta 9, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 84 37
82, www.thepubro.com/club. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00.
Old Town Old Town
OLD TOWN BEERHALLS
BERARIA HANUL CU TEI
With its big long bar, lively atmosphere and regular crowd
of beer drinkers out for a good time and not to pose, it
would be easy to nominate this place as the best pub in
the Old Town. Add in a brilliant range of sausages (weiss-
wurst, bratwurst, Polish bangers and local mici) and it
starts to get very dicult not to call this the best pub in
Old Town. And when we tell you there is live music from a
resident band at the weekends you will know you need to
go there immediately.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 63-65, tel. (+4)
0727 57 13 71, www.berariahanulcutei.ro. Open 10:00 -
02:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 05:00. PESW
BERARIA KOVACI
Beer (more than 40 kinds), very good pizza and fair bit else
besides in a rather nice setting on Strada Covaci, which,
with the recent opening of a few other decent places is
quickly becoming the new Lipscani street-to-be. Beraria
Kovaci is a sweet little place, decked out with wood and
boasting perhaps the comest chairs of any pub in the
city. Drinks are well priced and service comes with a smile.
An excellent place for a livener or two.QC-6, Str. Covaci
3, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 312 05 52/(+4) 0722 80
01 86, www.berariakovaci.ro. Open 14:00 - 02:00.
PNW
CURTEA BERARILOR
Once upon a time the whole of the Curtea Sticlarilor was
given over to artisans - especially glassmakers - from
whence the name. Now only a few survive and no less
than four bars have opened here. This one has given itself
the rather cheeky name Curtea Berarilor (Brewers Court-
yard), though there is no brewing done on the site. Instead
make do with plenty of on-tap pints, of which the default
option is Timisoreana.QC-6, Str. Selari 9-11, MPiata Uni-
rii, tel. (+4) 021 313 75 32, www.curteaberarilor.com.
Open 13:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 13:00 - 01:00, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. PBSW
RE:PUBLIC BIERHALLE Downstairs at Re:Public is the
Bierhalle, which besides oering decent regular live music
serves what is probably the best selection of draught beer
in the city. Theres an IPA, a Brown Ale and even cider on
tap. With big long tables in classic beerhall style there are
usually enough seats to keep punters happy, but at the
weekend you will do well to reserve: it can get very busy.
QC-6, Str. Selari 14, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0748 88 10
86, [email protected], www.therepublic.ro. Open
12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat 14:00 - 05:00, Sun
14:00 - 01:00. PESW
OLD TOWN CLUBS & DISCOS
As a general rule, Bucharests clubs can be divided into
three categories (as we have): the upmarket, Uber-
Clubs, where the trendy, fashionable and well-heeled
go to party, Student & Underground clubs where you
will nd a mainly local crowd of young partygoers, and
Live Music clubs which host live bands most nights of
the week. There is a fair bit of crossover of course, but we
think these three categories describe the citys club scene
reasonably well.
LIVE MUSIC
MOJO Three level extravaganza of a venue. On the
ground oor is the pub, upstairs is the most popular kara-
oke venue in the land, while downstairs in the cavernous
cellar there is live music, and then some. In a nutshell, this
place sets the standard for nights out in Old Town. The
beer is a decent price, the crowd a mix of ages and nation-
alities and the manager is a top bloke who makes a point
of being nice to his customers. When ace local bands are
not playing, the resident Mojo band usually is. Also now
puts on regular quiz nights and live British stand-up come-
dy too. Top notch.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 14, MPiata Uni-
rii, tel. (+4) 0760 26 34 96, www.mojomusic.ro. Open
13:00 - 05:00. PEBW
OLD CITY Good pub and club with regular live music and
other events on Lipscani with a huge beer garden out the
back. Serves very good cocktails (a sweet as you like moji-
to went down very well with Mrs. In Your Pocket) and some
pub grub that is far better than you would assume. A big
screen shows football and the like.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 45,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0729 37 77 74, www.oldcity-
lipscani.ro. Open 10:00 - 05:00. PEBSW
THE TUBE The concept, as the name suggests, is a
tube station, and although the roundels are not the most
convincing the rest of the signage (some of it from New
York) and the concave walls make it more than passably
tube-like. The entertainment is mainly live music from lo-
cal bands, and the sound down here is outstanding. Weve
been twice and both times the crowd has been a good
one: neither too young nor too old. Drinks are priced OK,
and service decent enough. Worth a look.QC-6, Str. Lip-
scani 30-34, tel. (+4) 0751 04 50 47, www.thetube.ro.
Open , Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 21:00 - 05:00. E
TRUE SOCIAL CLUB In that wonderful location once
known as Temple (on the corner of Strada Selari and Splai-
ul Independentei) is True Club, an exclusively live music
venue well worthy of your time (its owned and run by two
legends of the Bucharest nightlife scene, who have a track
record of delivering the goods). When the resident covers
band or top local act isnt performing you will nd karaoke,
and the sheer variety of themed nights and parties usually
means that there is always something here for everyone.
Drinks are a decent price and there are plenty of them to
choose from.QC-6, Splaiul Independentei (corner with
Str. Selari), MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0727 48 80 87, www.
trueclub.ro. Open 22:00 - 05:00, Fri 20:00 - 05:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PEW
STUDENT & UNDERGROUND
BASTARDS Is that really what it is called? Yes: that is re-
ally what it is called. In a Lipscani basement, with the walls
stripped back to the red brick, this is a cocktail bar and club
where the mood is dierent every night. It could be kara-
oke, it could be rock night, it could be DJ Andrei Nicolescu
spinning his old school electro tunes. Regardless of what is
going on you will probably enjoy it.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 28,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0723 20 34 63, www.bastards.
ro. Open 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PENB
CLUB A Selling the cheapest beer in the Old Town, this
place is a legend. If you want a local, unpretentious, up-
for-a-laugh studenty crowd getting down to classic songs
that you wont have heard for ages, this is the one place
in town you can be guaranteed to nd it, every night of
the week. Live music on most weekend nights, as well as
all sorts of events during the week, from theme nights
to theatre.QC-6, Str. Blnari 14, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 021 316 16 67, www.cluba.ro. Open 10:30 - 05:00,
Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat 16:00 - 06:00, Sun 16:00 - 04:00.
PEBW
FIRE CLUB A much-changed venue which over the past
year or so has shed its shabby-chic look and which has be-
come a bigger, brighter and less smokey venue than ever
before. Still plays mainly rock for a crowd of the young and
not-so-young, and to be honest it is as good as ever. We
have always liked the place and if you want to go local
it is one of your better options in the Old Town. There is
also now Fire Pub out the back (although the entrance is
from Strada Covaci): a small yet rather good boozer with
a huge and very nice covered terrace/atrium.QC-6, Str.
Gabroveni 12, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0732 16 66 04,
www.fre.ro. Open 10:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00.
PBSW
UPMARKET CLUBS
CLICHE Big club on Strada Smardan. A modern and el-
egant place serving coee and cocktails the music caters
pretty much to all tastes and there are various regular
theme nights (Friday is Fashionable Friday, for example).
Youngish crowd. Comfy sofas for crashing on a bonus.QC-
6, Str. Smardan 41, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0729 05 62 54,
www.clubcliche.ro. Open 12:00 - 05:00. PEBSW
FINNISH COCKTAIL & CLUB A little more chic and up-
market than most other places in the Old Town, Finnish is
a cocktail bar and club which brings a little contemporary
Scandinavian design to the Romanian capital. The house
drink is of course Finlandia vodka, available in more variet-
ies than you ever thought possible, but there is more to
this place than vodka: cocktails, wine, champagne and
beer. They even have Guinness on draught. The music -
usually provided by a DJ - is as contemporary and as good
Old Town Old Town
as the design, the crowd is a trendy one and we defy you
not to enjoy yourself here.QC-6, Str. Selari 28, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0753 57 82 09, www.fnnish.ro. Open
13:30 - 05:00. PBW
FREDDO The biggest, boldest place on Strada Smardan.
Smart too: when it started raining we were about to run
for cover only for the roof to be extended, keeping us all
dry. Impressive. Now get there and enjoy sound cocktails,
pizza and decent salads: and note you can enjoy it all at
proper, big wooden tables. You might want to reserve
at the weekends: this place is damn popular.QC-6, Str.
Smardan 24, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0722 37 33 36,
[email protected], www.freddo.ro. Open 12:00 -
05:00. PNBSW
LA MUSE
Last time we popped in we met up with almost everyone
we know in Bucharest. Thats the kind of place this is: on
the surface it looks posh and ash and out-of-your-league
(the lady at the entrance clutches a clipboard as though
her life depends on it) but it is in fact a down-to-earth,
come-as-you-are venue playing dance oor hits from
across the decades to a crowd a bit older than elsewhere,
which can aord the prices of the drinks. We love it.QC-6,
Str Lipscani 53, MPiata Unirii/Universitate, tel. (+4)
0734 00 02 36/(+4) 0745 02 42 17, [email protected],
www.lamuse.ro. Open 09:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00
- 06:00. PBW
THE VAULT
We love the (long) nights we spend in this place, not least
because you never know what to expect on the music front:
it could be a night of pop, a night of disco classics, a night of
indie beats or a night of up-to-the-minute clubby sounds.
We suggest you take a chance and delve inside. Chances
are you will enjoy yourself.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 29-33, MU-
niversitate, tel. (+4) 0723 19 99 77. Open 22:00 - 07:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PNBW
OLD TOWN SIGHTS
BANCA NATIONALA A ROMANIEI
The National Bank (BNR) stands on the site of one of the
most famous buildings in Romania: the Hanul Serban
Voda, which from 1678 until 1883 was the home of various
things, from a pub, to an inn to a dormitory for a nearby
girls school. After two res gutted the building however,
the land was levelled and in 1883 work began on the BNR,
completed to the designs of French architects Cassien
Bernard and Albert Galleron in 1885. The building boasts a
facade with Corinthian columns, and an enormous central
banking hall.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 25, MUniversitate.
HANUL LUI MANUC (HANUL MANUC, MANUCS
INN) Built in 1808 the eneormous, three-level Hanul lui
Manuc (Manucs Inn) is one of Europes last remaining car-
avanserai. The interior courtyard is a spectacular sight and
essential for any visitor to Bucharest, not least the grand
staircase to your left as you enter from Strada Franceza. A
hostelry ever since it opened the Han has seldom looked
better, and is currently home to two restaurants: Manucs
Bistro which serves Romanian food) and Levantin, a Leba-
nese eatery. There is also a cafe, and in summer the court-
yard is packed.QC-6, Str. Franceza, MPiata Unirii.
NATIONAL HISTORY MUSEUM (MUZEUL NA-
TIONAL DE ISTORIE) The beautiful, monumental and
simply superb Neo-Classical building that houses Romanias
National History Museum was constructed from 1894-1900
to the designs of local architect Alexandru Svulescu. It
originally served as the headquarters of Pota Roman, the
Romanian postal service. When the post oce moved away
in 1970, the History Museum moved in. The museums ex-
hibitions are spread over 60 display rooms, although many
are currently closed for renovation. The museums two most
important collections, however, are very much open: the
Lapidarium and the Romanian Treasury. The Lapidarium
includes statues brought from a Bronze Age necropolis
close to present day Cernavoda and a full-scale replica of
Trajans Column. The Romanian Treasury includes jewellery
from the time of the Geto-Dacians, as well as the current
Romanian Crown Jewels, including the kings crown and an
amazing selection of emeralds made for Queen Mary. The
bizarre statue on the museums steps allegedly represents
the emperor Trajan holding a wolf.QC-5, Calea Victoriei
12, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 82 07, www.mnir.
ro. Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 25 lei,
pensioners 15 lei, students and children 7 lei.
OLD COURT PALACE & CHURCH (PALATUL I BI-
SERICA CURTEA VECHE) The Old Court, rst built on
this site in the second part of the 15th-century by Vlad
epe, was considerably extended during the 16th cen-
tury, by Mircea Ciobanul, and again a century later, this
time at the hand of Constantin Brancoveanu. The palace
was by and large destroyed by a series of res in the 19th
century however, and subsequently neglected. Much of
what remains today was uncovered during archaeological
digs that took place from 1967-72, when the palace ruins
were rst opened as a museum. There are fragments of
the original 15th century walls, as well as remnants of the
voievodal palace throne room, in which most of the relics
found on the site are exhibited. Next door to the palace is
the Old Court Church dating from 1545. It was enlarged
in 1715, during the reign of tefan Cantacuzino, and the
frescoes inside, painted by maestros Constantin Lecca
and Miu Papa, were added in 1847.QC-6, Str. Franceza,
MPiata Unirii. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
PASAJUL MACCA-VILACROSSE
Today packed with cafes - most of which oer hookah
pipes and exotic tobaccos - Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse
was built in 1891 as a conduit between Calea Victoriei -
then the busiest street in the city - and the National Bank.
It is named for a Catalan architect, Xavier Villacrosse, who
from 1840-50 was the chief architect of Bucharest, and Mi-
halache Macca, son-in-law of the buildings architect, Felix
Xenopol. It is covered with an arcade yellow glass roof to
allow natural light, also intended to encourage commerce
at street level. In other words, this was Bucharests rst
shopping mall.QC-6, Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse; Calea
Victoriei, MUniversitate.
STAVROPOLEOS CHURCH (BISERICA STAV-
ROPOLEOS) The church was built in 1724 at the insis-
tence of a Greek monk, Ioanikie Stratonikeas. It is charac-
terized by its beautiful stone and wood carvings, of which
the nest are on the main doors. The courtyard outside has
a curious collection of tombstones dating from the 18th
century, and you might often see skilled craftsmen work-
ing on restoring them.QC-6, Str. Stavropoleos 4, MUni-
versitate, tel. (+40) 21 313 47 47, www.stavropoleos.ro.
ROMANIAN BEER
Romania has a long, proud history of brewing good beer,
and while today there are just 20 breweries in the coun-
try (there were more than 120 breweries in 1989), such
statistics do not tell the whole story of beer in Romania,
which is far from being a sorry one. With large amounts
of investment from big foreign brewers the countrys
best known beers have been saved from extinction
and improved, and in a number of cases new brews
launched: the current trend for unltered and lemon
beers is one such example.
Fortunately for the visitor, improvements in quality have
not increased prices: Romania remains home to one of
the cheapest pints of beer in Europe. We have long sug-
gested that the countrys marketing people use the fact
in their international campaigns.
The best known local brands of beer are probably Ursus,
Ciuc and Timisoreana. Ursus has been brewed since the
1870s, and if you ask ten Romanians what the national
beer is, it is likely that at least nine will respond Ursus.
Both Ursus and Timisoreana (brewed since 1718) are now
owned by SAB Miller, which also produces the smaller
brands Ciucas, Azuga and Stejar.
Ciuc (along with Silva) is owned by Heineken, while Carls-
bergs locally brewed Tuborg is also ubiquitous and popu-
lar. Other notable beers include Interbrews Bergenbier.
Unltered wheat beers (bere neltrata) are very popular
in Romania, the best probably being Ciucs, though you
should also keep a look out for Paulaners white beer, found
on tap in a number of Bucharest bars and pubs.
Also worth trying is the dark, bitter Ursus Black, a very
dierent beer to most local brews. Silvas Strong Dark
is similar and equally good. A few venues in Bucharest
have microbreweries, producing their own beer, or at
least serve their own bespoke brew made elsewhere:
Caru cu bere, Oktoberfest, Re:Public and Biutiful are three
such places.
Imported beers are popular amongst young, wealthy
urbanites, and you should never have too much trouble
nding the major international brands: Heineken, Carls-
berg, Peroni, Lee, Hoegaarden and Stella Artois are all
popular in Romania. And while imported beer is usually
a couple of lei more expensive than the local stu, no
beer in Romania is likely to cost more than 10-12 lei, even
in a club or trendy bar. A pint (or the local equivalent)
of local draught (la halba) beer costs from 7-8 lei, often
even cheaper. The one exception is Guinness. Found all
over the country (it is very popular amongst Romanians)
it is also relatively expensive.
Key Romanian words on the beer front include la halba
(draught) and la sticla (bottled). In most bars and restau-
rants the menu lists draught and bottled beers separately.
OLD TOWN JAZZ
BIG MAMOU CLUB In a city that is hardly awash
with live jazz clubs, this place is now something of a
legend. Though it looks less than inviting from out-
side, once through the door you are in a world of
great music and well-priced drinks. It is everything a
good jazz and blues club should be, complete with a
smoky atmosphere and a vast range of live acts who
regularly play here.QC-6, Splaiul Independentei 2B,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0724 67 11 08/(+4) 0744 52
01 49, www.bigmamou.ro. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 18:00 - 03:00, Sun 19:00 - 24:00. N
Shopping Old Town
Bucharests main shopping areas are the shopping centres
and malls listed below, as well as B-dul Magheru and -
increasingly - Calea Victoriei.
BOOKSHOPS
ANTHONY FROST ENGLISH BOOKSHOP
Stocks a good range of ction and non-ction, plenty of
childrens books, and a decent selection of books about
Romania and Bucharest.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 45, MUni-
versitate, tel. (+4) 021 311 51 38, www.anthonyfrost.ro.
Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
HUMANITAS KRETZULESCU
Large bookshop selling a wide range of both Romanian
and foreign language books.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 45,
MUniversitate, www.libhumanitas.ro. Open 10:00 -
20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
SALA DALLES Bookshop with a large exhibition space
out back that often hosts book and gift fairs. Always has a
decent selection of books in English.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae
Balcescu 18, MUniversitate. Open 10:00 - 21:00.
SHOPPING CENTRES
AFI PALACE COTROCENI One of Bucharests biggest
malls, with loads of top brand names and the added at-
traction of an IMAX cinema, a large ice skating rink (open
year round) and even an indoor roller coaster and chil-
drens funfair.QB-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul Timisoara,
MPolitehnica, www.afcotroceni.ro. Open 10:00 -
22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:30.
BANEASA SHOPPING CITY The largest mall in Bucha-
rest. With more than 220 shops it makes everywhere else
look quite small. Just past the old Baneasa airport you can
get here on buses 131 or 301 from Piata Romana.Qos.
Bucureti-Ploieti 42D, www.baneasashoppingcity.ro.
Open 10:00 - 22:00, Restaurants Open 10:00 -23:00.
BUCURESTI MALL Recently extended in a major rede-
velopment, this place - when opened in 1999 - was the
rst mall in the city. Hundreds of shops, including Marks
& Spencer and H&M.QE-7, Calea Vitan 55-59, www.
bucurestimall.com.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
PROMENADA MALL Opened in October 2013, this is
currently Bucharests most talked-about mall. Featuring the
usual mix of top stores, restaurants and cinemas, there is also
a rooftop recreation area.QCalea Floreasca 246B, MAurel
Vlaicu, www.promenada.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
UNIREA SHOPPING CENTRE A good shopping cen-
tre in the heart of the city. There are fashion stores on the
rst and second oors with electronics and kids shops on
oors three and four. An excellent Mega Image supermar-
ket can be found in the basement.QC-6, Piata Unirii 1,
MPiata Unirii, www.unireashop.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
MARKETS
Bucharest is home to a number of good markets, most of
which stock a wide range of produce, at prices often (but
not always) cheaper than the supermarkets. In season fruit
and vegetables tend to be local, but do check what you
are buying if you really want to make sure you are getting
local produce. In winter, expect almost everything to be im-
ported, and priced accordingly. Beyond the produce mar-
kets there are a couple of bazaar-type places worth visiting,
not least Complex Comercial Rahova, a place that stocks
cheap everything. Take tram No. 32 from Piata Unirii to (al-
most) the end of the line to nd it. The big Flower Market
on Calea Rahovei is also well worth a visit.
PIATA OBOR
Bucharests biggest and perhaps most famous market. Co-
lourful, huge, and always lively, it is not what it once was:
where you used to be able to buy almost anything here,
it is now a strictly meat, sh, dairy produce, fruit and veg-
etable market, with Romanian goods (tuica and the like)
also available in the newer of the two market halls.QE-4,
Piata Obor, MObor. Open 06:00 - 20:00.
TARGUL VITAN-BARZESTI
Every Sunday morning this place becomes Bucharests
biggest and busiest ea market. Its mayhem. More or less
everything you can imagine can be found here, all prices
negotiable. Next door is an enormous second-hand car
lot. Bus 123 from Piata Unirii will get you here. Be brave.
QSos. Vitan-Barzesti/Splaiul Unirii. Open 08:00-16:00.
Closed Mon-Sat.
CONTEMPORARY ART GALLERIES
GALATECA GALLERY (NEOGALATECA GAL-
LERY-SHOP) A gallery of applied art, housed in the rath-
er splendid University Library on Piata Revolutiei. Features
local and international contemporary artists, while the
NeoGalateca shop sells fashion, accessories and designer
objects from names including Muuto, Pols Potten, Seletti
and ToyWatch, as well as local designers Andreea Badala
(Murmur), Carla Szabo, Lucian Broscatean, Miki Puran (Ma-
racuja), Cosmina Nicolescu (Fandacsia), Agnes Keszeg and
Ciprian Vrabie. QC-5, Str. C.A. Rosetti 2-4, tel. (+4) 0376
20 31 77, www.galateca.ro. Open 12:00 20:00, Sat
11:00 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
ZORZINI GALLERY
Fine contemporary art gallery working with both
established and emerging Romanian artists that cor-
respond to the gallerys aesthetic agenda, which in-
cludes graphics, painting, installation and mixed me-
dia. Currently represents Nicolae Comanescu, Andrei
Gamart and Oana Lohan. QC-5, Str. Thomas Masaryk
31, tel. (+4) 0727 89 07 20, www.zorzinigallery.com.
Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. PLBSW
ST. DUMITRU CHURCH (BISERICA SF. DUMITRU
DE JURAMANT)
St. Dumitru Church (Biserica Sf. Dumitru) dates back to the
15th century. It was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1847 and
the current building dates from 1852 but it has undergone
numerous renovations due to damage from earthquakes.
St. Dumitru is the patron saint of Bucharest.QC-6, Str. Pos-
tei 2, MPiata Unirii.
ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH (BISERICA SFANTUL
NICOLAE - BLANARI) The church was built in the 1880s
as a private chapel for Romanias rst royal couple: Note that
the king and queen still have special seats on the left and
right of the churchs 18th century icon kept for them should
they ever return.QC-6, Str. Blanari 16, MUniversitate.
ST. NICHOLAS STUDENTS CHURCH (SFN-
TUL NICOLAE BISERICA STUDENILOR) Built in
1905-09 with a 600,000 gold rouble donation from Tsar
Alexander II, this Russian orthodox church is topped with
seven typically Russian onion domes and crowned with
an orthodox cross. The wooden, gold-gilded iconostasis
(catapeteasm) is allegedly a copy of the altar in Arhan-
gelsk Cathedral, in Moscows Kremlin.QC-5, Str. I. Ghica
9, MUniversitate.
STRADA LIPSCANI & HANUL CU TEI
Strada Lipscani gets its name from the large number of
traders who, in the 18th century, sold wares here brought
from Leipzig, which at the time was one of the largest trad-
ing posts in Europe. As Str. Lipscani was the main commer-
cial street in the Old Town, it over time lent its name to the
whole area. Ironically, its name and history aside, modern
Str. Lipscani has little to recommend it, although it does
have some exceptional bars, pubs and clubs, and a theatre.
About two thirds of the way along Str. Lipscani is the Ha-
nul cu Tei, a wonderful courtyard (once part of a large inn)
which today houses art galleries, antique shops, second-
hand book shops, gift shops, studios and portrait artists,
as well as a lively terrace (in summer) and pub/restaurant,
and an excellent souvenir shop.QC-6, Str. Lipscani, MU-
niversitate.
SUTU PALACE / MUSEUM OF BUCHAREST
Much overlooked museum, despite its location in the very
centre of the city. The highlight is probably the selection of
maps of Bucharest through the ages, while there is also an
original log from the Podul Mogosoaia: the forerunner of
Calea Victoriei, in the days when the street was paved with
logs. The exhibition is well captioned in Romanian and
English, and while small an enjoyable hour can be spent
here. You will leave feeling as though you want more, how-
ever. The museum is housed in the elegant, Neo-Gothic
uu Palace, built from 1833-4 for the wealthy merchant
Costache uu.QC-5, B-dul I.C. Bratianu 2, MUniversi-
tate, tel. (+4) 021 315 68 58, www.muzeulbucurestiului.
ro. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6
lei, 3 lei children, students and pensioners. Children un-
der seven free. Some temporary exhibitions cost extra.
UNIVERSITATE
The twin semi-circular buildings in Piata Universitatii
which are in many ways the entrance to the Old Town
were built in 1906 to serve as the headquarters of Roma-
nias largest insurance company. In front of them are four
statues, of Gheorghe Lazar (founder, in 1818, of the rst
Romanian school in Bucharest), Ion Heliade Radulescu
(a founding member of the Romanian Academy), Mihai
Voievod Viteazul (the rst person to unite the three
Romanian provinces, in 1600) and Spiru Haret (a math-
ematician, astronomer and politician who as education
minister in the 1880s and 1890s created the foundations of
the modern Romanian education system). Opposite is the
university building itself (pictured below), constructed
over a twelve year period from 1857 to 1869 at the behest
of Alexandru Ioan Cuza, at the time Prince of Romania. It
originally housed three faculties (Law, Humanities and Sci-
ence), but today houses just the Faculty of Letters and Lan-
guages, as well as the universitys administrative depart-
ments. The central corp of the building was entirely rebuilt
in the late 1940s after it was destroyed during heavy allied
bombing in 1944. Though rebuilt as an exact replica of the
original, many sculptures and basreliefs by Carol Storck
were deemed irreplaceable and lost forever.QC-5, Piata
Universitatii, MUniversitate.
HANUL GABROVENI... OR IS IT?
HANUL GABROVENI (GABROVENIS INN)
Few Bucharest locals - let alone visitors to the city -
are aware that the newly renovated Hanul Gabroveni,
set to become a cultural centre this summer, is not,
in fact, the original 18th century Hanul Gabroveni. Ac-
cording to a group of local architects who publish the
website rezistenta.ro, the building actually dates from
the mid-19th century, and is named Hanul Hagi-Tudo-
rachi. The rather plain facade - touted as a replica of
the original Hanul Gabroveni - was actually renovated
using a sketch from 1923 which may or may not have
resembled the original. For what its worth, the actual
Hanul Gabroveni, long since gone, was on the other
side of the road, where Fire Club is today.QC-6, Str.
Gabroveni, MPiata Unirii.
Hotels Shopping
SOUVENIRS
MUZEUL TARANULUI ROMAN (PEASANT MUSE-
UM) The shop at the Peasant Museum has an outstanding
selection of souvenirs and gifts. Of particular note are the
traditional peasant clothes, as well as the icons and naive
art.QB-3, os. Kiselef 3, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021
317 96 61. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
PAIDEIA Wonderful local gifts, including books, post-
ers, greetings cards, objets dart and even Romanian deli-
cacies, from rened palinca to gourmet salts and honey.
QB-dul Nicolae Balcescu 2-4 (Hotel InterContinental),
MUniversitate, www.cadouriculturale.ro. Open 10:00
- 16:00. Also at (C-6) Unirea Shopping Centre (Ground
Floor).
SECOND CHANCE A wide range of good Romanian
souvenirs handmade by people from disadvantaged
backgrounds.QSos.Bucuresti-Ploiesti 42D (Baneasa
Shopping City), tel. (+4) 0726 17 36 43, www.romania-
handmade.ro. Open 10:00 - 22.00.
SOUVENIR SHOP Everything you would want from a
decent souvenir shop - with both Romania and Bucha-
rest branded gifts available - and more besides. We came
across the best Dracula T-Shirts weve seen so far here,
complete with the slogan: Send more tourists, the last
ones tasted great. We bought two.QC-5, Str. Smardan 13,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 32 25 40/(+4) 0723 65 55
84, [email protected], www.souvenir-shop.
com.ro. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
WINE
Bucharest has a decent selection of specialist wine stores,
of which we list the best here.
BVS WINE BAR & SHOP Super little place on the edge of
the Old Town run by the same people as the Van Gogh Cafe.
Its a wine bar and shop where you can nd a ne selection
of self-imported wines, tasting them all before you buy. You
can also just pop in for a glass or two, although in our expe-
rience once weve sat down at this charming place we tend
not to get up again until closing time.QC-6, Str. Covaci 19,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 31 00 580, www.bvswines.ro.
Open 14:00 - 22:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 01:30.
ETHIC WINE Wonderful wine shop, run by a friendly
Englishman and his lovely wife, both of whom really know
their stu. There is a wide range of local grape, as well as
a good selection of wines from Cricova in the Republic of
Moldova.QC-3, Str. Banu Antonache 55, tel. (+4) 0722
63 37 89, www.ethicwine.ro. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Mon
15:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
THE WINERY OUTLET Bucharest outlet of the excel-
lent Halewood Winery. You will nd some of the best wines
produced in Romania sold here.QSos. Mihai Bravu 132,
tel. (+4) 021 252 10 32, www.halewood.com.ro. Open
09:30 - 21:30, Sun 09:30 - 14:30.
VINEXPERT There is always something worth spend-
ing your money on here, whether its the latest vintage
from Cricova or Tokaji, or more prosaic delights such as the
dreaded Unicum (Vinexpert being one of the few places
in Romania where we have found said liqueur). Will de-
liver.QD-6, B-dul Octavian Goga 24, tel. (+4) 021 327 49
74, www.evinoteca.ro. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Also at (C-6) Unirea Shopping Center (P-a Unirii 1), and
(C-6) Cocor (B-dul I.C. Bratianu 29-33).
LOCAL DESIGNERS
A pair of handmade shoes from Romanias top shoe
designer, Mihaela Glavan, may not be the cheapest of
souvenirs, but they will certainly be unique. All of Gla-
vans designs can be customised: visit her showroom
at (A-4) Str. Sabinelor 104, tel. (+40) 730 09 73 23. For
clothes by local designers, check out the huge Roma-
nian Designers Gallery on the second oor of the
Cocor Department Store, at (C-6) B-dul Ion Bratianu
29-33. You will nd a wide range of designs by many of
Romanias best designers.
LOCAL ART
Look out for craft fairs being held at the citys better mu-
seums in order to nd some gorgeous naive art. The Peas-
ant Museum hosts regular such fairs, although not every
weekend: you will simply have to get lucky. Suvenir de
Bucuresti, a small art gallery specialising in classic scenes
of Bucharest and Romania always has a great selection
of paintings for sale: nd it on (C-5) Strada Academiei.
For those with more contemporary tastes, head for the
Zorzini Gallery on (C-5) Strada Thomas Masaryk. The gal-
lery represents three of Romanias leading contemporary
artists: Nicolae Comanescu, Andrei Gamart and Oana
Lohan. Galateca on (C-5) Strada C.A. Rosetti is a gallery
of applied art, housed in the rather splendid University
Library on Piata Revolutiei. Its NeoGalateca shop sells
fashion, accessories and designer objects from a num-
ber of top local designers.
BUCHAREST MONOPOLY
We have long said that this should be the rst thing
on any list of must-have Romanian souvenirs. The clas-
sic board game as you know and love it (or otherwise)
given a local twist. The streets of London have been
replaced with the streets of Bucharest. The cheapest
property on the board is Rahova, while the most ex-
pensive is Bulevardul Primaverii. Found in most good
toy shops and larger supermarkets and hypermarkets, it
sells for around 110 lei.
With the exception of the ve-star hotels listed in the
Cream of the Crop category, the price bands used refer to
the rack rate for a double room.
CREAM OF THE CROP
ATHENEE PALACE HILTON
Simply put, this has been one of Bucharests nest ho-
tels for almost a century. It is a living piece of the citys
history - it dates from 1914 - and yet inside its historic
facade you will nd a most modern place to stay. There
is a wide range of rooms to choose from: the best are
those with views over Piata Revolutiei. Indoor pool and
health club, terric onsite dining and of course this is
the home of the English Bar: probably Bucharests most
famous bar.QC-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3, tel. (+4) 021
303 37 77, www.hiltonbucharest.com. 272 rooms.
POTHR6UFLGKDCW
CAROL PARC Luxurious, certainly, but oering some-
thing a bit dierent to the bigger players, the Carol Park
is coquette and secluded: you have to know about this
place, as you do not nd it by chance. A gorgeous place
where the nest things are oered to all who pass through
its doors, expect only ne, classic furnishings and very
personal service. International stars who value discretion
above all else tend to stay here when visiting Bucharest.
QAleea Suter 23-25, tel. (+4) 021 336 33 77, www.
carolparchotel.ro. 17 rooms. PHRLGKW
CROWNE PLAZA BUCHAREST
Contemporary and welcoming, the Crowne Plaza
Bucharest oers all the reassuring global standards you
would expect of the brand, from rst class accommoda-
tion to world class facilities. With a renowned reputation
for individual and friendly service, the hotel can also of-
fer the greenest setting in the capital, surrounded as it is
by beautifully maintained grounds. Can also boast a large
swimming pool, big, comfortable rooms (and bathrooms
to match) and some outstanding drinking and dining
options.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafei 1, tel. (+4) 021 224 00
34, www.crowneplaza.com/bucharest. 164 rooms.
PTHRUFGKDCW
EPOQUE
Now heres a hotel we have no problem in recommend-
ing. Opened during the Autumn of 2010 the Epoque has a
number of things going for it, not least its location on the
edge of Cismigiu Park: close enough to the heart of the city
yet at the same time oering the impression of a retreat.
Rooms are large and tastefully furnished, there are plenty
of extras (not least a plunge pool), breakfast is good and
for what you get, the prices are a steal.QB-5, Str. Intrarea
Aurora 17C, tel. (+4) 021 312 32 32, www.hotelepoque.
ro. 44 rooms. PTHRUFLGKDCW
GRAND HOTEL CONTINENTAL
Making the very best of a wonderful building (which dates
from 1886) on chic Calea Victoriei, todays Grand Hotel
Continental is the result of more than two years of loving
renovation and restoration. Theres marble at every turn,
though do not think that modern touches are missing, for
they are not. The audio-visual systems in the rooms for
example are state of the art. For the great location and for
a change from the big chains, its well worth trying out.
QC-5, Calea Victoriei 56, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0372
01 03 00, www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. 59 rooms.
PTHR6UFLGKDW
HOWARD JOHNSON GRAND PLAZA BUCHA-
REST HOTEL This is a high-rise hotel in the busy centre
of Bucharest, where the sleek, modern exterior is matched
by the interiors, all of which carry the signatures of top-
name designers. The breakfast is perhaps the best in the
city, coming as it does with champagne, and the dining
opportunities in general are excellent: there is a wonder-
ful Japanese restaurant, Benihana, on site. To really get the
best out of this place though, ask for a room on one of the
upper oors, for the views over the city.QB-3, Calea Doro-
bantilor 5-7, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50 00,
www.hojoplaza.ro. 285 rooms. POTHR6U
FLGKDW
INTERCONTINENTAL Still the tallest hotel in Bucharest
(complete with a swimming pool on the top oor) the In-
terContinental was the rst major ve star hotel to open in
Romania, at the beginning of the 1970s. Today it is one of
many but remains something of a rst choice for journal-
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
F Fitness centre L Guarded parking
6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant
D Sauna C Swimming pool
W Wi
Hotels Hotels
ists and business people, many of whom have been loyal
guests for decades. The rooms here all boast big balconies
with great views of the city, there is rst class dining in the
building, and the management is commendably hands-
on. The new Club Lounge on the 21st oor is the best in
the city, oering great views of Bucharest, cocktails, meet-
ing rooms, internet, a library and an all round exclusive
atmosphere. Non-guests can use the Club Lounge for
35 per day. Its open 06:30-22:30.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae
Blcescu 2-4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20,
www.intercontinental.com/bucharest. 257 rooms.
POTHR6FLGKDCW
JW MARRIOTT BUCHAREST GRAND HOTEL
To the south of Casa Poporului the JW Marriott occupies
something of a palatial building that at rst glance prob-
ably makes it the most immediately impressive of Bu-
charests big ve star hotels. The scale of the place, and
its cavernous interiors, betray the fact that it was built as
part of the same grand plan as the Casa Poporului itself.
Yet the rooms are homely and well-furnished, providing
a welcome contrast to the building. Plenty of good dining
options, and home to the biggest swimming pool in the
city (we think).QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90, tel. (+4)
021 403 00 00, www.jwmarriottbucharest.com. 401
rooms. POTHR6UFLGKDCW
NOVOTEL BUCHAREST CITY CENTRE
Few locations are better than this, right on fashionable
Calea Victoriei. The entrance is impressive: a replica of the
old neoclassical National Theatre which stood on this ex-
act site until the British bombed it to next week during
the Second World War. Shiny and new the main part of
the hotel is wonderful: rooms are big, with bathrooms
particularly impressive. Excellent, lively lobby bar and a
big indoor swimming pool are other added benets of
staying here.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 37B, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 308 85 00, www.novotel.com. 258 rooms.
POTHR6UFLGKDCW
PULLMAN BUCHAREST WORLD TRADE CENTER
The spacious, luxurious rooms are the main attraction at
this high rise in the north of the city, where the bathrooms
boast perhaps the deepest bathtubs in the city. There are
separate showers, and all in all we think that the square-me-
terage-per-euro ratio is higher here than anywhere else in
Bucharest. A good on-site steak house keeps you well fed,
and though there is no pool there is a good tness centre
with sauna and massage available.QA-1, P-ta Montreal
10, tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00, www.pullmanhotels.com.
203 rooms. PTHR6UFLGKDW
RADISSON BLU A gleaming temple of steel and glass
amongst the more classical buildings of Calea Victoriei,
the Radisson excels in playing the role of futuristic Bucha-
rest hotel of choice. As you walk in the glass bar strikes
you as daring and modern, and the rooms themselves are
equally avant garde in design. Bathrooms oer both tubs
and showers, and there is both an indoor and outdoor
pool, so you can swim whatever the weather. Excellent restaurants, especially the sublime Prime Steaks and Sea-
food.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81, tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00,
www.radissonblu.com/hotel-bucharest. 718 rooms.
PHRUFLGKDCW
OVER 150
ALEXANDER Big, plush hotel close to Bucharests high-
rise business district of Pipera. Rooms are all well-sized and
impeccably furnished and come with a host of extras. The
bathrooms are particularly luxurious. The hotel has a good
little spa centre with sauna, Turkish bath and jacuzzi. Great
breakfast - which is amongst the citys best - included
in the price of your room.QSos. Pipera-Tunari 1/VI, tel.
(+4) 021 569 51 10, www.alexanderhotel.ro. 73 rooms.
PHRFLKDW
CISMIGIU One of the most famous hotels in Bucharest
(there is even a song about the place: Hotel Cismigiu, by
Vama Veche) reopens its doors after being closed for al-
most two decades. In a fantastic location right in the heart
of the city, millions have been spent making the hotel
look better than at any time in its century-old history.
The contemporary rooms - all of which are in fact suites
- are enormous, many even boasting kitchens. Theres a
tness centre, wi throughout, a great breakfast is includ-
ed and there is even onsite parking. Worth every penny.
QC-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 38, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 031 403 05 00, www.hotelcismigiu.ro. 60 rooms.
PTHRUFLGKW
NH BUCHAREST
Not located in the most attractive area of the city, the
NH makes up for that by oering a modern, contem-
porary hotel experience for a fair amount of money:
you can usually stay here for far less than the rack rates.
Expect well sized rooms with plenty of extras and a
very good on site restaurant. Good place to stay with
children and babies: the sta make a point of making
them feel welcome.QD-6, B-dul Mircea Voda 21, tel.
(+4) 021 300 05 45, www.nh-hotels.com. 76 rooms.
PTHRUFLGKW
RAMADA BUCHAREST PARC
The Hotel Parc has been around a while, but only came
under the Ramada banner a short while ago. A high-rise
in a leafy suburb (close to Romexpo and Herastrau Park
- hence the name) it boasts nice rooms which - while not
huge - are comfortable and boast brightly coloured dcor
and gorgeous, soft cotton sheets on the beds. Great buet
breakfast included in the price.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafei 3-5,
tel. (+4) 021 549 20 00, www.ramadabucharestparc.ro.
267 rooms. PHRGKW
RAMADA MAJESTIC
Standing (dare we say it) majestically on Calea Victoriei, the
Majestic has long been one of Bucharests best hotels. It of-
fers very big rooms with glorious bathrooms, a great break-
fast and - a real bonus - a swimming pool (albeit a rather
small one). In a city in which even some of the ve star hotels
lack pools, the Majestics makes it well worth that little bit
Hotels Hotels
extra cash.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 38-40, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 310 27 72, www.ramadamajestic.ro. 111
rooms. PTHRUFLGKDCW
RAMADA PLAZA BUCHAREST Slightly more up-
market than its sister establishment across the road, what
you get here is a slightly bigger room than at the Parc,
and much bigger bathrooms. The design of the place is
nicely futuristic, and we loved the beds which we think
are amongst the best in Bucharest. Free Wi is a bonus,
there is a good lobby bar and a decent on site bistro. Good
value for the money.QB-dul Poligrafei 3-5, tel. (+4) 021
549 30 00, www.ramadaplazabucharest.ro. 298 rooms.
PHRUFGKW
100-150
ANGELO AIRPORTHOTEL BUCHAREST
The hotel closest to Bucharests Otopeni airport. The Angelo
is operated by Vienna International Hotels & Resorts, and its
bright exterior is matched by the interior: bold colours
abound in all the rooms and the common areas. There is
high speed Wi throughout, and a tness centre complete
with sauna. Transport to and from the airport is compli-
mentary. Great buet breakfast.QCalea Bucurestilor 283,
tel. (+4) 021 203 65 00, www.angelo-bucharest.com.
177 rooms. PTHR6UFLGKDW
BERTHELOT Smart, modern and dead central. What
more could you want? For your money you are getting
a good deal here: the rooms are big and well furnished
with plenty of mod cons, such as LCD televisions, while
the bathrobes in the sumptuous bathrooms are suitably
uy and the cosmetics a cut above the norm.QB-5,
Str. General Berthelot 9, tel. (+4) 031 425 58 60, www.
hotelberthelot.ro. 43 rooms. PTHRLGKW
CAPITAL PLAZA
Smart place at the northern edge of the city centre, about
ve minutes walk from Piata Victoriei. The rooms are big
and furnished in a modern style, with unobtrusive co-
lours and smart lines. Bathrooms are good, and the range
of free cosmetics is impressive. Top onsite restaurant
too, the 1880.QB-4, B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 54, tel.
(+4) 0372 08 00 80, www.capitalplaza.ro. 95 rooms.
PTHRUFLGKW
DUKE Now this place is central. A proverbial stones throw
from Piata Romana, this modern hotel is squeezed in to
a tight spot between two classic Bucharest buildings of
the past. Rooms are well-sized, bathrooms have tubs and
showers, and theres free and fast Wi throughout. Beds
get high marks for their excellent mattresses.QC-4, B-
dul Dacia 33, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 317 41 86,
www.hotelduke.ro. 37 rooms. PRGKW
RESIDENCE ARC DE TRIOMPHE
Fantastic hotel in a good area of the capital, oering large,
excellent value rooms and super services. There are little
touches of class all over the hotel that suggest they really
care. The wrought iron beds, for example, are fabulous, as
is the newly added spa, complete with sauna and jacuzzi.
The restaurant is also worth a visit, serving good interna-
tional cuisine.QA-3, Str. Clucerului 19, tel. (+4) 021 223
19 78/(+4) 0372 15 07 00, www.residencehotels.com.ro.
35 rooms. PTHRLGKDW
RESIDENCE DOMENII PLAZA
A wonderful villa, this place oers real luxury and a qui-
et, understated atmosphere. Its a classy place for classy
people, basically. All the rooms, studios and apartments
are bright, big and have stunning bathrooms. It also has
a fantastic spa, complete with sauna, steam bath and
enormous jacuzzi, perfect for tired business types in need
of evening relaxation. The food in the restaurant is out-
standing.QA-2, Str. Al. Constantinescu 33, tel. (+4) 021
224 50 44, www.residencehotels.com.ro. 33 rooms.
PTHRLGKDW
UNDER 100
ANDY You can see Gara de Nord from your bedroom win-
dow if you stay here: you can decide for yourself if thats
good or bad. Its a decent hotel, especially compared
to those surrounding it, and if you are in two minds as
to which station hotel to stay in, make sure you choose
this one. It even has a sauna and jacuzzi.QA-4, Str. Wit-
ing 2, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 300 30 50, www.
andyhotels.ro. 49 rooms. PR6GKDW
BOUTIQUE HOTEL MONACO
A nice place on a quiet(ish) street yet still close enough
to the city centre to be within walking distance. There is
an elegance to the decoration that suggests theyve taken
real time and eort over things, and the beds are large,
comfortable and covered with crisp yet soft sheets. Wi,
atscreen TVs, good bathrooms. The kind of place you feel
should cost a lot more than it does: seriously good value
for money.QC-5, Str. J. L. Calderon 74, tel. (+4) 021 310
56 68, www.hotelmonaco.ro. 8 rooms. PTLW
CARO
The Caro is in fact three hotels in one: the Caro Golf, a four-
star establishment oering very swish rooms, the Caro
Parc: one of the best three-stars in the city, and the out-
standing value budget two-star Caro Horoscop. All three
oer bright rooms with excellent bathrooms, and there
is terric buet breakfast in the Belvedere restaurant. The
surroundings are leafy and yet the citys business district
is just across the street. There is free wi at the Caro Golf.
QC-1, B-dul Barbu Vcrescu 164A, MAurel Vlaicu,
tel. (+4) 021 208 61 00, www.carohotel.ro. 188 rooms.
PTH6UFLKDCW
CHARTER
For what you pay at this hotel, you get a large amount
of room indeed. Really: these must be the biggest hotel
rooms in Bucharest, and they cost about 1 per square
metre. Close to the airport (on the other side of the road to
Hotels Hotels
McDonalds) this place is perfect if you have an early ight,
though it is only fair to say that it is a good 30 minutes
or so to the city centre. Still, with rooms and services to
match anywhere, and at very low prices, we doubt any-
one will be complaining.QDrumul Odaii 1D, Otopeni,
tel. (+4) 021 352 87 19, www.hotelcharter.ro. 21 rooms.
PTRLGW
DAN
Serving a terric buet breakfast (until 11:00) this hotel
has long been one of our favourites. Its location a short
distance from the city centre is good, and the rooms are
well sized, as are the bathrooms: all of which have tubs,
not just showers. Good, friendly sta and the kind of
homely atmosphere you would expect of a small well-run
hotel.QB-4, B-dul Dacia 125, tel./fax (+4) 021 210 39 58,
www.hoteldan.ro. 15 rooms. PHRULGW
DOUBLETREE BY HILTON
Located just o Bulevardul Unirii, the DoubleTree is some-
thing of a beacon of glass and steel in an area not known
for anything except monumental socialist architecture.
The hotel is a decent place oering big-ish rooms, with
commendably big bathrooms. Happy, multi-lingual
sta are a bonus not always found in Bucharests ho-
tels. Good cafes (there are two) to choose from: one
has a covered terrace.QD-7, Str. Nerva Traian 3A, tel.
(+4) 021 200 62 70, www.doubletree.com. 87 rooms.
PTHRUFLGKDW
GOLDEN TULIP TIMES
This, people, is a very good hotel where you get a hell of a lot
of room for a relatively small amount of money. All come fur-
nished well with terric beds, big desks and comfy armchairs.
Bathrooms are equally impressive and modern. There is Wi
throughout and a host of extras: not least of which is the fan-
tastic breakfast. The on site restaurant is one of the best hotel-
based eateries in the city.QE-6, B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata
Muncii, tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16,, www.goldentuliptimes.
com. 70 rooms. PTHRLGKW
GOLDEN TULIP VICTORIA BUCHAREST
Half-way along Calea Victoriei, a pleasant walk to both Piata
Victoriei and Piata Universitatii, the Golden Tulip is a ne ho-
tel that makes great use of the space available. The bath-
rooms for example are not huge but feel far bigger than
they are, and all have enough room for bathtubs. Bright
and modern in design we think its suited best to business
travellers looking to get great value for their companys
dollar.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 166, MPiata Romana, tel.
(+4) 021 212 55 58, www.goldentulipbucharest.com. 81
rooms. PTHRUFLGKW
HELLO HOTELS
Two stars never looked so good. For your paltry amount
of cash you are getting a lot of hotel room here, complete
with at screen televisions and mattresses thicker than
many a ve-star. Bathrooms are a bit pokey but they are
more than adequate, and as far as value for money goes
we think this is one of the best deals in the city. Find the
place a short walk from the station.QB-4, Calea Grivitei
143, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 0372 12 18 00, www.
hellohotels.ro. 150 rooms. PR6ULGKW
HOTEL NONNA MIA
A bed and breakfast with an Italian twist (the fantastic
restaurant on the ground oor). Homely rooms with bags
of character, good bathrooms and kitchenettes. Add in
great sta and a quiet location and you have one of Bu-
charests real bargains. We love the place.QC-3, Str. Chile
10, MStefan cel Mare, tel. (+4) 021 231 22 83, www.
nonnamia.ro/hotel-nonnamia. 6 rooms.
IBIS GARA DE NORD
A hotel for more than 40 years this building (and the
whole area) was given a real lift when it became a good
old Ibis some several years ago now. Expect a room a
bit bigger than standard Ibis size, the usual services, few
frills (breakfast costs extra) and all in all a good value stay.
The name is not misleading: it is dead opposite the sta-
tion.QA-4, Calea Grivitei 143, MGara de Nord, tel.
(+4) 021 300 91 00, www.ibishotels.ro. 250 rooms.
PHR6ULGKW
IBIS PALATUL PARLAMENTULUI
If you want a view of Casa Poporului then this is perhaps
the best place in Bucharest to come. Other than that it
is a fairly standard Ibis hotel, just as you love them from
anywhere else on the planet. Not entirely ideally lo-
cated if you are not driving, it does boast non-smoking
rooms and very good sta.QB-6, Str. Izvor 82-84, tel.
(+4) 021 401 10 00, www.ibishotels.ro. 161 rooms.
PTHR6ULGKW
MINERVA
It is really hard to knock the Minerva so we will not even
try. Having been around so long it is entitled to a gold
watch, it remains a great choice for business people who
pay their own bills: you get great service, a good room
(a choice of smoking or non-smoking), a dead-central
location yet are only asked for a fraction of what the ve-
stars charge. The oldest Chinese restaurant in Romania
is located on the ground oor, there is a lively bar and
a good spa, complete with jacuzzi, sauna, Turkish bath
and massage.QB-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4, MPiata
Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 311 15 55, www.minerva.ro.
PHRFGKDW
RAMADA HOTEL & SUITES BUCHAREST NORTH
Well located in a quiet residential area near Herastrau
park. It has great rooms - amongst the biggest, on aver-
age, in Bucharest - and the bathrooms are tremendous:
all have bathtubs. There are also studios with kitch-
enettes for longer stays. The hotel boasts a good spa
centre (with excellent Turkish bath), a big tness room
with loads of equipment and an outdoor terrace and
Hotels Hotels
swimming pool. Good lobby bar and ne-dining in the
restaurant too.QC-6, Str. Daniel Danielopolu 44A, tel.
(+4) 021 233 50 00, www.ramadanorth.ro. 232 rooms.
PTHR6UFLGKDCW
SARROGLIA HOTEL
Bright, contemporary and architecturally stunning hotel
that looks expensive yet costs relatively little. The rooms
are minimalist yet chic and pack a real punch in the com-
fort stakes, and each comes with an individual feel to it,
often in the form of a full-wall mural. The location is close
enough to the centre to be attractive while remaining res-
idential: this is a quiet area of town. The hotels restaurant
and lounge provide colour and panache.QC-5, Str. Vasile
Lascar 59, tel. (+4) 031 412 60 00, www.sarrogliahotel.
com. 32 rooms. PHRUFLGKW
TRIANON
If location really is everything then you cant do much
better than this cracking place on Str. Cobalcescu, next
to the Ministry of Defence and opposite Cismigiu Park.
The building is a superb Secession renovation on a
street that boasts some extraordinary buildings: it is a
shame not all are up to this standard. Inside the rooms
are simple, tastefully decorated and oer excellent value
for money. Bathrooms have either a bath or a shower.
QB-5, Str. Grigore Cobalcescu 9, tel. (+4) 021 311 49
27/(+4) 021 311 49 28, www.hoteltrianon.ro. 26 rooms.
PTHR6UGKW
OLD TOWN HOTELS
EUROPA ROYALE BUCHAREST The Europa Royale
is a gorgeous place that complements instead of over-
powering its surroundings. Literally a stones throw from
where Bucharest began, at the Curtea Veche, facing Piata
Unirii, it is as ideally located as you ever hope for. Inside
the rooms are big, classy and we found the sta exem-
plary. QC-6, Str. Franceza 60, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
021 319 17 98, www.europaroyale.com. 92 rooms.
PTH6UGKW
REMBRANDT The Rembrandt is what happens when
people with taste renovate buildings in Old Town Bu-
charest (the gorgeous cafe next door belongs unsur-
prisingly to the same people). Luxurious without over-
doing it, expect to nd original 1920s wooden oors and
period furnishings complimented by up-to-the-minute
technology.QC-5, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15, fax (+4) 021 313 93 16, www.
rembrandt.ro. 16 rooms. PTRUGKW
TANIA-FRANKFURT This is a cracking little place in
the very heart of Old Town, just a shake or two away
from the citys best nightlife. Rooms are good value,
bright and airy, and are furnished in a modern, bright
and airy style. The best is the split level sky room, with
its sky light and raised sleeping area. Theres free inter-
net for guests.QC-6, Str. Selari 5, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 021 319 27 58, www.taniahotel.ro. 13 rooms.
PRGKW
Z EXECUTIVE BOUTIQUE HOTEL
In a building on a street hidden a little behind the
Sutu Palace this is a great place from which to enjoy
the delights of Old Town and indeed the whole of cen-
tral Bucharest. Rooms are big and modern, tastefully
furnished and come with comfortable beds and good
bathrooms. The breakfast room is great, and theres
an on site bistro with great views of the busy streets
outside.QC-5, Str. Ion Nistor 4, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 031 140 02 00, www.zhotels.ro. 21 rooms.
PTHR6ULGKW
SHORT-TERM RENTAL
APART HOMES A range of city-centre apartments,
from studios to two-bedroomed places, as well as a
villa in Baneasa. They have someone on call 24 hours
for any emergencies, maid service twice a week and
oer a variety of other services. Prices from 50-150.
QC-6, Str. George Valentin Bibescu 33, bl. X/2, sc. A,
ap. 6, tel. (+4) 021 232 04 06, www.aparthomes.ro.
20 rooms. PTR6GW
CERT ACCOMMODATION A very good selection of
fully furnished, elegant, serviced studios, one, two and
three bedroom apartments in and around the city cen-
tre. Cleaning is free, and they can also arrange car hire
and airport transfers. Prices from 40-100. Cheaper rates
for longer stays.QB-5, Piata Walter Maracineanu 1-3,
tel. (+4) 0720 77 27 72, www.cert-accommodation.
ro. 21 rooms. POTFLGKW
GRAND ACCOMMODATION
Grand Accommodation has a variety of well furnished
apartments and villas to suit all pockets in good loca-
tions available for both short and long term rentals.
Prices from 30-80/night.QB-5, Str. Ion Campineanu
29, tel. (+4) 0722 36 75 68/(+4) 021 314 49 50, www.
for-rent.ro.
HOSTELS & VILLAS
DOORS HOSTEL Clean, colourful and rather spacious
hostel a short walk south from Piata Unirii. Located in a
classic Bucharest house it benets from a gorgeous gar-
den/courtyard, an all you can eat breakfast and free Wi,
amongst much else. Note that they have only shared, mixed
dorms: there are no private rooms. Prices from 12-35.QC-7,
Str. Olimpului 13, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 336 21 27,
www.doorshostel.com. 5 rooms. PTLGKW
VILA 11 Located in a lovely 1920s house close to Gara de
Nord (one block east of Strada Vespatian and Dinicu Go-
lescu) Vila 11 has a variety of private rooms, dorm facilities
and family suites available for backpackers and families of
all ages. Friendly and welcoming the owners do a great
breakfast (included in the price) and are a wealth of inside
info when it comes to getting the best out of Bucharest.
Prices from 20-54.QA-4, Str. Institutul Medico Militar
11, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 0722 49 59 00, vila11bb@
hotmail.com. 6 rooms. T6GW
X HOSTEL Already forging for itself something of party-
central reputation. Good, clean dorms and bathrooms,
and a number of singles for those who can splash the
extra cash. Prices from 5-45. Free Wi, but breakfast not
included.QC-6, Str. Balcesti 9, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
021 312 76 13/(+4) 0785 21 15 15, www.xhostel.eu. 24
rooms. PT6GKDW
Directory
CLEANERS
EGNATE Professional cleaning service: apartments, hous-
es, oces etc. They will even come and clear up after you
have had the builders in, and can take care of tricky things
such as marble and furniture.QB-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu
10, tel. (+4) 0734 11 15 55/(+4) 0723 89 22 86, ofce@
egnate.ro, www.egnate.ro.
DENTISTS
B.B. CLINIC - GERMAN DENTIST
Unquestionably the best dentist in the city. Whats more,
you can bring the kids too, as they now have a special room
at the Dorobanti location equipped especially for younguns.
QD-6, Str. Ionescu Gion 4, tel./fax (+4) 021 320 01 51,
[email protected], www.germandentist.ro. Open
10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. For emergencies (24hrs)
tel. (+4) 0744 49 91 99. Also at (B-2) Calea Dorobantilor
208, tel. (+4) 021 231 88 56. PT
DRY CLEANERS
5ASEC
QB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 111, tel. (+4) 021 236 00 98/
(+4) 0762 28 53 47, www.5asec.ro. Open 08:00 - 20:00,
Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Also at (E-7) Calea Vitan
13, tel. (+4) 021 320 99 95; Jolie Ville, Str. Erou Iancu
Nicolae 103, tel. (+4) 021 206 80 80; Colosseum Mall,
Sos. Chitila, tel. (+4) 021 796 13 11; B-dul Alex. Serba-
nescu 60-64, tel. (+4) 021 891 98 44; Cora Alexandrei,
Sos. Alexandrei 152, tel. (+4) 021 776 91 21.
FOREIGN REPRESENTATIONS
AUSTRIA QC-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie 7, tel. (+4) 021
201 56 124.
BELGIUM QD-4, B-dul Dacia 58, tel. (+4) 021 210 29 69.
BULGARIA QB-3, Str. Rabat 5, tel. (+4) 021 230 21 50.
CANADAQA-3, Str. Tuberozelor 1-3, tel. (+4) 0213075000.
CROATIAQD-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea1, tel. (+4) 0213003655.
LA BIBLIOTEQUE
Wow, we like this place. Its unique, genuinely dier-
ent: a beauty salon and library, housed in one of the
most glorious villas in the city. It sounds as though it
shouldnt really work, but it does, thanks in the main
to terric design and a great community of people
and friends that has quickly grown up around the
place. Its popular for book launches and the like. We
recommend you go there, its a genuine Bucharest
rst.QB-3, Str. Duiliu Zamfrescu 10, tel. (+4) 021
212 51 71/(+4) 0749 77 77 77, www.labibliotheque.
ro. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Mon 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 -
19:00. Closed Sun. PW
Directory Directory
PLASTIC SURGERY
DR. INA PETRESCU
Ina Petrescu has more than 14 years plastic surgery
experience behind her at Bucharests leading hos-
pital: the University Hospital at Eroilor. Petrescu has
benetted from prestigious internships at some
of Europes leading clinics (including St. Andrews
Centre, Broomeld Hospital in the UK and the Villa
Bella Clinic in Italy) and her private practice oers
all kinds of plastic surgery at rates far below those
in western Europe. Petrescu can oer a full range of
interventions, including: abdominoplasty, bepharo-
plasty (eyelid surgery), body contouring (liposuction),
botox and hyaluronic acid injections, breast augmen-
tation, breast lifts, breast reconstruction after cancer,
ear reshaping, facelifts, labiaplasty, lipolling, lipocryo
(non-surgical fat reduction), EndyMed 3DEEP RF treat-
ments for tightening and contouring, radiofrequency
for rosacea and spider veins, peeling, hand surgery,
microsurgery of peripheral nerves, skin tumor surgery
and scar revision.QA-4, Str. Inginer Gheorghe Duca
26, Ap. 1, tel. (+4) 0722 55 68 38, www.facebook.
com/reconstructie.mamara.
CZECH REPUBLIC QC-5, Str. Ion Ghica 11, tel. (+4) 021
303 92 30.
DENMARKQD-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea3, tel. (+4) 0213000800.
FINLAND QB-3, Str. Atena 2bis, tel. (+4) 021 230 75 45.
France QB-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 13-15, tel. (+4) 021
303 10 00.
GERMANY QB-3, Cpt. Av. Gh. Demetriade 6-8, tel. (+4)
021 202 98 30.
GREECE QE-5, Str. Pache Protopopescu 1-3, tel. (+4)
021 209 41 70.
HUNGARY QC-4, Str. Jean Louis Calderon 63-65, tel.
(+4) 031 620 43 00.
IRELAND QB-4, Str. Buzesti 50-52, et. 3, tel. (+4) 021
310 21 31.
ITALY QB-4, Str. Henri Coanda 9, tel. (+4) 021 305 21 00.
MOLDOVA QB-3, Aleea Alexandru 40, tel. (+4) 021
230 04 74.
NETHERLANDS QB-3, Str. Aleea Alexandru 20, tel.
(+4) 021 208 60 30.
NORWAY QB-3, Str. Atena 18, tel. (+4) 021 306 98 00.
POLAND QB-3, Aleea Alexandru 23, tel. (+4) 021 308
22 00.
PORTUGAL QB-3, Str. Paris 55, tel. (+4) 021 230 41 36.
RUSSIA QB-3, Sos. Pavel Kiselef 6, tel. (+4) 021 222 31 70.
SERBIAQB-3, CaleaDorobantilor 34, tel. (+4) 0212119871.
SLOVAKIA QC-5, Str. Otetari 1, tel. (+4) 021 300 61 00.
SPAIN QB-3, Aleea Alexandru 43, tel. (+4) 021 318 10 80.
SWEDEN QB-3, Sos. Kiselef 43, tel. (+4) 021 406 71 00.
SWITZERLAND QB-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 16-
20, tel. (+4) 021 206 16 00.
UK QC-4, Str. Jules Michelet 24, tel. (+4) 021 201 72 00.
USA QB-dul Liviu Librescu 4-5, tel. (+4) 021 200 33 00.
PHARMACIES
HELP NET QC-6, B-dul Unirii 27, tel. (+4) 031 405 04 59,
www.helpnet.ro. Also at (B-3) Str. Av. Radu Beller 8, tel.
(+4) 031 405 04 79 and many other locations.
SENSIBLU QB-3, Str. Radu Beller 6, tel. (+4) 021 233 89
61, www.sensiblu.com. Open 00:00 - 24:00 Open 24hrs.
Also at (C-5) B-dul N. Balcescu 7, tel. (+4) 021 305 73 14
and many other locations.
REMOVALS / STORAGE
AGS WORLDWIDE MOVERS QB-dul Basarabia 256
(Faur Industrial Park, gate 4, entrance from B-dul 1
Decembrie 1918), tel. (+4) 021 345 06 66, www.ags-
worldwide-movers.com.
EURO MINI STORAGE QB-dul Theodor Pallady 42 J,
3rd District, Bucharest, tel. (+4) 031 100 18 88, www.
euroministorage.com.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
AMERICAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
QSos. Pipera-Tunari 196, Comuna Voluntari, tel.
(+4) 021 204 43 00/(+4) 021 204 43 01, www.aisb.ro.
ATHENA GREEK SCHOOL OF BUCHAREST
QD-6, Str. Parfumului 9, www.greekschool.ro.
BRITISH SCHOOL OF BUCHAREST
QErou Iancu Nicolae 42, tel. (+4) 021 267 89 19/(+4)
0728 13 34 33, www.britishschool.ro.
BUCHAREST CHRISTIAN ACADEMY
QD-7, Aleea Mizil 62B, tel. (+4) 021 323 58 87/(+4)
021 323 54 08, www.bcaromania.org.
CAMBRIDGE SCHOOL OF BUCHAREST
QB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 39, tel. (+4) 021 210 21 31/
(+4) 021 210 21 38, www.cambridgeschool.ro.
INTERNATIONAL BRITISH SCHOOL
QE-5, Str. Agricultori 21-23, tel. (+4) 021 253 16 98,
www.ibsb.ro.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL FOR PRIMARY ED-
UCATION (INSPE)
QStr. Petre Aurelian 72, Green Lake Residence, tel.
(+4) 021 380 35 35/(+4) 021 380 36 36, www.inspe.
ro.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BUCHAREST
QSos. Gara Catelu 1R, tel. (+4) 021 306 95 30, www.
isb.ro.
IOANID PRESCHOOL INTERNATIONAL EDU-
CATIONQStr. Jandarmeriei 14, tel. (+4) 0746 04 10
00, www.internationalkindergarden.ro.
JAPANESE SCHOOL IN BUCHAREST
QA-2, Str. Alexandru Constantinescu 61, tel. (+4)
021 222 19 85, www.jpschool.ro.
LAUDER-REUT
QC-6, Str. Iuliu Barasch 15, tel. (+4) 021 320 15 38,
www.lauder-reut.ro.
LYCEE FRANCAIS
QB-4, Str. Christian Tell 22, tel. (+4) 021 212 58 93/
(+4) 021 212 58 94, www.lyfrabuc.ro.
MARK TWAIN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
QStr. Erou Iancu Nicolae 25B, tel. (+4) 021 267 89
12/(+4) 0724 00 09 00, www.marktwainschool.ro.
MARKET VALUES
1 is currently worth 4.52 lei. A pint of local beer in a
central Bucharest bar or pub will cost you around 8 lei
(1.77). A McDonalds Big Mac costs 11 lei (2.45), while
a loaf of plain bread in a local store is 1.20 lei (0.27). A
packet of 20 international brand cigarettes costs 14.50
lei (3.21), and one litre of standard unleaded petrol
5.95 lei (1.32). A one-trip ticket for public transport
ticket costs 1.30 lei (0.29).
Golden Tulip
Moxa
Childrens
Emergency Hospital
Emergency Hospital
Romanian National
Rugby Stadium
Circus Globus
Dan
Duke
Howard Johnson
Grand Plaza
Starlight
Minerva
C
a
s
a
V
ic
to
r
Picollo Mondo Residence Arcul de Triumf
Hello
Ibis Gara
de Nord
Marshal Garden
Nonna Mia
Institutul Matei Bals
Peasant
Museum
Grigore
Antipa
Museum
Geology
Museum
Village
Museum
George Enescu
Museum
Yeshoah Tova
Romanian
Television (TVR)
Arc de Triumf
Piata Obor
Northern Bucharest
M
M
Radisson Blu
Athenee
Palace
Hilton
Z Boutique
Comfort
Suites
Carol Parc
Suter Inn
Double Tree by Hilton
Royal
International
NH
Confort Traian
K&K
Elisabeta
El Greco
Scala
Tempo
Horoscop
Novotel
Grand
Continental
Capitol
Majestic
Casa Capsa
JW Marriott
Ibis Parliament
Parliament
Epoque
Trianon
Ambassador Boutique Hotel Monaco
Andys
Volo
Central
Cismigiu
Opera
Berthelot
Art Collections
Museum
National
Art
Museum
(MNAR)
History
Museum
Contemporary Art
Museum
Technology
Museum
Interior
Ministry
Antim Monastery
Domnita
Balasa
Old Court Palace
& Church Cocor
Baratiei
Coltea Church
& Hospital
Russian
Church
Cretulescu
Revolution
Monument
Theodor
Aman
Museum
University
Library Carol I
Statue
Piata
Amzei
Radu Voda
Monastery
Bucur
Church
Stavropoleos
Church
Sf. Dumitru
Doamnei
Italian Church
Schitul
Darvari
Mihai Voda
Patriarchal
Cathedral
National
Art
Museum
(MNAR)
Museum of
Bucharest
Rembrandt
Tania
Europa Royale
InterContinental
Central & Southern Bucharest
Unirea
Street register
13 Septembrie, Calea B6
21 Decembrie 1989, Piata C5
Academiei, Str. C5
Alecsandri Vasile, Str. B4
Alexandrescu Grigore, Intr. C4
Alexandrescu Grigore, Str. B4
Aman Theodor, Str. B5
Amman, Str. C3
Amzei, Intr. B4
Apolodor, Str. B6
Argentina, Str. B3
Arghezi Tudor, Str. C5
Atelierului, Str. A4
Atena, Str. B3
Balaban Emil, Str. C4
Balcescu Nicolae, Bd. C5
Baniei, Str. C6
Banului, Str. B5
Baratiei, Str. C6
Batistei, Str. C5
Berna, Str. B3
Berthelot H. M., G-ral., Str. B5
Berzei, Str. A4
Biserica Amzei, Str. B4
Biserica Enei, Str. C5
Bitolia, Intr. B3
Blanari, Str. C6
Blanc Louis, Arh., Str. B3
Blanduziei, Str. C5
Bogdan Ion, Prof., Str. C4
Botez Eugen, Cmdr., Str. C3
Bratianu I.c., Bd. C6
Brazilia, Str. B3
Brebu, Str. E3
Brezoianu Ion, Str. B5
Brutus M.i., Str. B6
Bruxelles, Str. B3
Budisteanu Constantin,
G-ral, Str. B5
Buiestrului, Str. C3
Buzesti, Intr. B4
Buzesti, Piata A4
Buzesti, Str. B4
Buzoiani Iani, Str. C2
Buzoianu Ion, Lt.col., Intr. C6
Caderea Bastiliei, Intr. B4
Caderea Bastiliei, Str. B4
Caderon Jean Louis, Str. C5
Calin Ion, Erou, Str. C4
Cameliei, Str. A4
Carada Eugeniu, Str. C6
Caragea Ioan Voda, Str. C4
Caragiale I.l., Str. C5
Caragiale I.l.,intr. C5
Carol I, Bd. D5
Catargiu Lascar, Bd. B4
Cavafii Vechi, Str. C6
Cazzavillan Luigi, Str. B5
Cernat Alexandru,
G-ral, Str. A4
Cioranu Mihai, Str. A6
Clucerului, Str. A3
Clunet, Dr., Str. A6
Coanda Constantin, G-ral., Str.
B4
Coanda Henri, Str. B4
Cobalcescu Grigore,
Prof., Str. B5
Coltei, Str. C5
Constantin Daniel, Str. B4
Constitutiei, Piata B6
Conta Vasile, Str. C5
Coposu Corneliu, Bd. C6
Coposu Corneliu, Piata D6
Cornescu, Str. C3
Cotiturii, Str. A5
Covaci, Str. C6
Crisana, Str. A5
Crisului, Str. C6
Cronicarilor, Str. C3
Cuza Alexandru Ioan, Bd. A4
Dacia, Bd. D4
Dascalu Nicolae, Serg., Intr. B4
David Emmanuel, Str. C4
Davila Carol, Dr., Str A6
Dealul Mitropoliei, Alee C6
Demetriade Gheorghe, Cpt.
av., Str B3
Dianei, Str. C5
Doamna Oltea, Str. C3
Dona Nicolae, G-ral, Str. B5
Dorobanti, Calea B3
Dorobanti, Piata B3
Dragalina Ion, G-ral., Str. B6
Drobeta, Str. C4
Duca Gheorghe, Bd. A4
Dumbrava Rosie, Str. C4
Eforie, Str. C5
Eftimiu Victor, Intr. B5
Elie Radu, Str. B5
Eminescu Mihai, Intr. C4
Eminescu Mihai, Str. D4
Enescu George, Piata B5
Enescu George, Str. B5
Episcopiei, Str. C5
Eroii Sanitari, Bd. A5
Eroilor, Bd. A5
Eroilor, Piata A6
Felix Iacob, Dr., Str. A4
Filipescu Nicolae, Str. C5
Finlanda, Str. B3
Floreasca, Cale C3
Florescu Ion, G-ral, Str. C5
Franceza, Str. C6
Frumoasa, Intr. B4
Frumoasa, Str. B4
Furtuna Stefan, Intr. A5
Gabroveni, Str. C6
Gara De Nord, Piata A4
Gara De Nord, Str. A4
Georgescu George, Str. B6
Ghica Ion, Str. C5
Golescu Dinicu, Bd. A4
Golescu Nicolae, Str. C5
Greceanu Paul, Str. C4
Grigorescu Eremia, Str. C4
Grivitei, Cale B4
Gusti Dimitrie, Str. A5
Gutenberg, Str. B5
Haga, Str. B3
Hagi Moscu Maria, Str. A3
Halelor, Str. C6
Haret Spiru, Str. B5
Hasdeu Iulia, Intr. B4
Hasdeu Iulia, Str. B4
Horatiu, Str. B4
Hristo Botev, Bd. C5
Iancu De Hunedoara, Bd. B4
Icoanei, Str. C4
Ilfov, Str. B6
Iorga Nicolae, Intr. B4
Iorga Nicolae, Str. B4
Iosif O. Eugen, Dr., Str. A6
Iulian Stefan, Str. A3
Izvor, Str. A6
Justitiei, Str. B6
Kiseleff P.d., Bd. B3
Kogalniceanu Mihail, Bd B5
Kogalniceanu Mihail, Piata B5
Lacatusului, Str. C2
Lacul Tei, Bd. D3
Lahovari Alexandru, Piata C4
Lantului, Str. A6
Lascar Vasile, Str. C5
Lazar Gheorghe, Str. B5
Lebedei, Str. A3
Libertatii, Bd. B6
Libertatii, Piata B7
Lipova, Str. A5
Lipscani, Str. C6
Lisabona, Str. B3
Lister, Dr., Str. A6
Londra, Str. B3
Lupu Dionisie, Str. C5
Luterana, Str. B5
Macedoniei, Str. A5
Magheru Gheorghe, Bd C5
Magiresti, Str. A4
Maltopol, Str. A4
Mamulari, Str. C6
Manolescu Grigore, Str. A3
Manu Gheorghe, G-ral, Str. B4
Maracineanu Walter, Piata B5
Masaryk Thomas, Str. C5
Mendeleev D.i., Str. C4
Mexic, Str. B3
Michelet Julles, Str. C4
Micle Veronica, Str. A4
Mihai Voda, Str. B6
Mihalache Ion, Bd. A3
Mihnea Voda, Str. C6
Mille Constantin, Str. B5
Millo Matei, Str. B5
Mincu Ion, Arh., Str. B3
Mirinescu Mihail, Dr., Str. A6
Miron Costin, Str. A4
Mitropolit Antim Ivireanul, Str.
B6
Monetariei, Str. B3
Mosilor, Cale D4
Moxa Mihail, Str. B4
Muresanu Andrei, Str. B3
Musatescu Tudor, Piata B5
Natiunile Unite, Bd. B6
Natiunile Unite, Piata B6
Neculce Ion, Str. A3
Negri Costache, Str. A6
Negruzzi Iacob, Str. A4
Negulescu Stefan, Str. C3
Occidentului, Str. B4
Oslo, Str. B3
Ostasilor, Str. B5
Otetari,str. C5
Paris, Str. B3
Parvan Vasile, Str. B5
Pasteur Louis, Dr., Str. A6
Patriarhiei, Str. C6
Petrescu Camil, Intr. C4
Philippide Alexandru, Str. C4
Piata Amzei, Str. B4
Pitar Mos, Str. C5
Poenaru Bordea, Str. B6
Poiana Narciselor, Str. B5
Politie, Str. B6
Polizu Gheorghe, Str. A4
Polona, Str. C4
Poni Petru, Str. A4
Popa Tatu, Str. B5
Popescu-gopo Ion, Str. A6
Povernei, Str. B4
Praga, Str. B3
Praporgescu David,
G-ral., Str. C5
Pretorienilor, Str. A6
Putul Cu Plopi, Str. B5
Putul Lui Zamfir, Str. B3
Quinet Edgar, Str. C5
Quito, Piata B3
Rabat, Str. B3
Radu Voda, Str. C6
Ramniceanu Naum, Str. C3
Regina Elisabeta, Bd. C5
Regina Maria, Bd. C6
Revolutiei, Piata B5
Rigas, Intr. B5
Roma, Intr. B3
Roma, Str. B3
Romana, Piata B4
Rosetti C.a., Piata C5
Rosetti C.a., Str. C5
Rosetti Maria, Str. C5
Rossini Gioachino, Str. C3
Saligny Anghel, Ing., Str. B5
Sapientei, Str. B6
Sarandy Frosa, Str. A3
Scarlatescu, Str. A3
Schitul Magureanu, Bd. B5
Scoala Floreasca, Str. C3
Scoalei, Str. C5
Selari, Intr. C6
Selari, Str. C6
Sepcari, Str. C6
Sevastopol, Intr. B4
Sevastopol, Str. B4
Sfanta Vineri, Str. C6
Sfantul Constantin, Str. B5
Sfantul Elefterie, Str. A6
Sfintii Apostoli, Str. B6
Sfintii Voievozi, Piata B4
Sfintii Voievozi, Str. B4
Slanic, Str. C5
Slatineanu Ion, Str. C4
Slavesti, Str. C4
Smardan, Str. C6
Sofia, Str. B3
Stahi Constantin, Str. B5
Staicovici Nicolae, Dr., Str. A6
Stavropoleos, Str. C6
Stefan Cel Mare, Sosea D4
Stirbei Voda, Intr. B5
Stirbei Voda, Str. B5
Tirana, Str. B3
Titulescu Nicolae, Sosea A4
Tokio, Str. B3
Tomescu Toma, Dr., Intr. B4
Transilvaniei, Str. B5
Tudor Stefan, Intr. C3
Tunari, Str. C4
Unirii, Bd. C6
Unirii, Piata C6
Universitatii, Piata C5
Vacarescu Barbu, Str. C3
Venezuela, Str. B3
Verona Arthur, Pictor, Str. C5
Victoriei, Calea B4
Victoriei, Piata B4
Visarion I.c., Str. B4
Vladoianu Barbu, G-ral, Str. A3
Vlaicu Aurel, Str. C4
Vulcanescu Mircea, Str. B4
Washington, Str. B3
Witting, Str. A4
Xenopol Alexandru, Str. C4
Zalomit Z. Ion. Str. B5
Zola Emile, Str. B3

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