Incidents of Foreign Sport and Travel by Colonel Pollok

CsJ
O
C\J
INCIDENTS
OF
FOREIGN SPORT AND TRAVEL
/ 1
INCIDENTS OF FOREIGN
SPORT AND TRAVEL
BY
COLONEL POLLOK
AUTHOR OF "SPORT IN BRITISH BURMA," "REMINISCENCES OF AN INDIAN OFFICER," "A LADY'S CAPTIVITY AMONGST THE NAGAS," ETC., ETC.
ILLUSTRATED
LONDON
CHAPMAN & HALL,

1894
[All Rights Reserved]
LD.
RICHARD CLAY AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BUNGAY.
PREFACE
THE
"
Incidents
"
related in this
work have been
put together as a guide to the numerous class of sportsmen who, year by year, go abroad in search
of game.
Very many men
lose their
lives yearly,
;
and the simply from a superabundance of pluck want of training in wild sports, which is as necessary to a successful hunter as learning A B C is to a
youth prior to reading and writing.
royal road to learning,
proficient as
There
is
no
a
nor can a
man become
of
toil
hunter who has not acquired the

great
deal
;
knack by undergoing a
experience
is
for
only learnt after years of practice.
The author may be said to have commenced his novitiate before he was six years old, as he was
then allowed to
sit
in the back seat of his father's
an orderly, and as soon as he was capable of using a gun or a rifle, he graduated in sport under competent guidance, and learned
in charge of
howdah
how
the ferce naturce should be followed up to the
bitter
end with safety to himself and attendants.
513251
vi
Preface.
He was
one
over.
exceptionally
lucky in being sent to a

barely
province teeming with

years
of
twentyage, which had never been hunted

for
game when
twenty-one years in the best sporting countries under our rule he had under him
;
He was
work lay in surveying, and laying out roads, which enabled him to travel over virgin he had numerous elephants he forests and jungles
vast districts
;
his
was not only young, but had the constitution of a buffalo, ample means, and had shooting and hunting
on the
tunities
brain.
He made
the most of his
oppor-
to the best of
his ability,
and hopes, by
relating his
experiences, to
not only instruct the
young, but also to afford an hour or two's amusement to far better and more successful sportsmen than
himself.
A few
of these
"
Incidents
in the pages of the Field,
Land
have appeared and Water, and
"
Shooting Times, and are reproduced with the kind

permission of the proprietors of those journals.
March, 1894.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER
I.
PAGE
TIGER SHOOTING
II.
RHINOCEROS
(ASIATIC)
SHOOTING
64
85
III.
ELEPHANT SHOOTING
(ASIATIC)
IV.
INDIAN BUFFALO SHOOTING
125
V.
HOG HUNTING
BEARS (ASIATIC)
179
VI.
VII.
220
SAMBUR
PANTHERS AND LEOPARDS (ASIATIC)
243
278
VIII.
IX.
A MIXED BAG IN SOUTHERN INDIA

SPORT IN SYRIA
333
342
X. XI.
XII.
MAHSEER FISHING
IN THE AZORES
355
368
XIII.
A WEST AFRICAN EPISODE

ESCAPE FROM HYDROPHOBIA
378
XIV.
387
XV.
XVI.
AN EXCITING DAY'S SPORT
390
THREE YEARS WITH MURDERERS ON A SOLITARY ISLAND 399
INDEX
423
ILLUSTRATIONS
TO FACE PAGE
'ONE OF THEM THREW 1W HER THAMIN OVER HIS HEAD RETREATED BACKWARDS INTO THE RIVER "... Frontispiece
.
.
THE NOOSE OVER

"
ITS
HEAD
"
114
OUR SHIKARIES WERE UNEXPECTEDLY CHARGED BY AN ELEPHANT "
124
"THE BULL CHARGED US SO SUDDENLY THAT RAISE THE RIFLE TO MY SHOULDER "
"
HAD NOT TIME TO

162
SENT HIS OWNER OVER HIS HEAD, RIGHT IN FRONT OF THE BOAR, WHO MADE AT HIM "
202
"
ON THE BANKS OF WHICH WAS AN ENORMOUS CROCODILE "
217
SPEARING BEARS IN THE DECKHAN
233
CAME UPON FOUR LEOPARDS WATCHING A HERD OF HARTEBEESTS

"
.
332
"
A TIGER BOUNDED OUT ON ONE SIDE AND WAS PROMPTLY MET BY A BULL-BUFFALO " 397
,
.
"
THE ELEPHANT SPUN ROUND TO BOLT, BUT THE FELINE WAS TOO " 399 QUICK FOR HIM, AND SPRANG UPON HIS HIND QUARTERS
.
INCIDENTS OF FOREIGN SPORT AND TRAVEL

CHAPTER
I.
TIGER SHOOTING.
TIGER shooting in India is carried out in various ways. Off Machans (raised platforms). Out of Marts (circular pits dug in the ground). The former can be used either for day or night
shooting, the latter for night work alone. On Foot. Principally in Central, and parts Southern, India.
of
In Bengal, Assam, Burma and Off Elephants. other parts of India where grassy plains abound. Tigers are also killed, during inundations, out of
boats and also
speared
by being surrounded by nets and then but these two sports cannot be separated
from such shooting or spearing as would represent general shooting for, for one tiger so killed, a dozen
other animals will be accounted
I
for.
personally detest night shooting in and care very little for shooting even
any form, by day off

are
machans, but
very often
when no elephants
procurable and the nature of the country prohibitive
Intid&tt>t$ \of
Foreign Field Sport.
tq\ hunting on foot,, posting guns and beating up to them is the only alternative. There are men, who can boast of having killed, it
is
asserted, five
it is
But
felines,
machans. an expensive mode of warfare against the for buffaloes have to be purchased and tied up,
tigers
hundred
mostly
off
and an army of beaters
is
required to drive the
game
towards the guns, but having tried it pretty often, I have come to the conclusion that it is unsatisfactory
and scarcely worth the cost. man is posted on a tree, a
Very often when a tiger passes him within
easy distance, yet so uncomfortable is his position that he cannot turn round to get the shot. But tastes
do not care to pot a tiger from a coign of vantage some twenty feet high, and although I have done so several times, yet I always felt less pleasure in thus slaying the foe than when I have followed it
differ.
up
either
I will
on
foot, or
beat for
it
with elephants.
I
here briefly relate incidents of the various

tigers, in
modes of slaying
In
which
I
have had a share.
my
at
boyhood, at sixteen,
I
and
nineteen
commanded
entered the service, a detachment at
Condapilly.
In those happy days there were no railways, telegraphs were unknown and the posts came " " I had a good writer and a only every other day.
good native Muster over,
commissioned
I
officer
Peer
Bukh.
for the
used
to
sign the
returns
month, frank the necessary official envelopes, direct the subadar to have three parades a week, and then disappear for a fortnight or more to hunt and shoot the neighbouring jungles which swarmed with game. but I need not enumerate it here. I had fine sport At Condapilly itself, leopards were numerous, and
Tiger Shooting.
tigers fairly plentiful.
My
bungalow was situated at
the foot of a range of hills, some 600 feet high, once the stronghold of Mahratta chiefs, more noted as
freebooters than as peaceable inhabitants. broad, in led laid out to the road, steps, winding, we]l-paved
where were then, and are still, the remains of a Solid palace. The whole country was rudely fortified. stone walls with flanking towers extended for miles around, being carried up hill and down dale, and
top,
must have been the work of ages. In ancient times, before ordnance was known, these defences were all but impregnable in my day even, they would have
;
given a great deal of trouble to
any enemy to carry, if he were unprovided with artillery. The population had disappeared with the fall of the power of the chiefs, and the whole country was a wilderness, inhabited by a few deer, a few tigers, many leopards and thousands of lungoor and other varieties of monkey, and
occasionally
yea, twenty
by a few
bears.
You might go
fifteen,
miles, without encountering
an inhabitant.
Condapilly, a considerable village, amounting almost to a town, vast flocks of goats and sheep and herds of cattle were taken daily past my house for
From
grazing purposes, and as in those good old times, when the country was ruled by the Honourable the East
had passed the greater part of their lives in India and knew how to rule the natives, every village and every district had
India
Company, whose
directors
its
nerick, or a fixed price for every article of food required either by Europeans or the people of the
country, there
selected
for one
fat
was no bargaining. The price of a sheep was one rupee (two shillings)
B 2
taken at haphazard out of the flock twelve
Incidents of Foreign Field Sport.
annas, or eighteenpence.
Of course I was a constant knew and and was known well by every purchaser herdsman, and as I rewarded them liberally for " Jcubber" if an animal was killed, as happened almost Thus whenever I daily, I was sure to hear of it. was at Condapilly, during the moonlight nights I had
full occupation.
Mogul Beg, the shikarie, and I had sat up no less than sixteen nights without getting a shot. It is one thing to sit up, and quite another to be successful
in slaying the object of your quest. Tigers and leopards are wary creatures, and as they lie up not
from the animal they have slain so are often scared away from their prey by the shikarie's talking or
far
" in the vicinity of the kill," when they are erecting a machan. Not only do the beasts of prey disappoint by not returning to their
cutting
down branches
victim, but
is
when one comes, shooting by moonlight

an animal
fired
so uncertain, that oftener than not,

is
at,
missed, or gets
away more
or less
severely
wounded. I had returned from hog-hunting with the Nugied Rajah, and was reclining en deshabille, in my long armed chair, when Mogul Beg appeared, and informed me, that a gwala reported that a leopard had killed a three-parts-grown heifer, and that if I would start at once, he thought we might get a shot, for, said he, The moon is nearly at the full, and no portion of the
'
animal has been eaten."

"
Well,
Mogul Beg,"
?
said
"
I,
how
often have
we sat
up and never got a shot

of the range. I
It is a long trudge to the top
am very tired, for I have been riding since
daybreak, and don't care to go so far for nothing."
Tiger Shooting.
"
But gurreeh pumvah"

likely, if
us long to get there
" it won't take replied he, the spot is a secluded one, and
there early, and make no noise, the borbutcha (leopard) will come before dark.
more than
we get
Our nusseeb
soon." "
(luck) has
been so bad,
it
must change
too lazy to change my clothes I'll put on a pair of shoes and be with you Take down two guns and the ammunition, directly. and if we don't get a shot to-night, I'll be hanged if
Well," said
"
I,
am
go again." My night suit, in which I was robed, was a dark gray. I soon drew on a pair of socks, and a stout pair of shoes, and then the shikarie and I
I
commenced the ascent

at
of the hill
a fatiguing thing
the
best of times, but particularly so then, as
body ached from my previous exertions. It took us half an hour to get to the ruins of the palace, and three-quarters of an hour more to reach the " kill," where we were met by a herdsman who had been left behind to act as our He pointed out the heifer, and as there was guide. no tree suitable for a machan, Mogul Beg, and the givala collected brushwood and formed a circular
every bone in
my
enclosure within about four yards of the dead beast. By the time our cache was completed, the sun
and as there is little or no twilight in the the herdsman hurried off home, as the jungles East, were not over safe, for a lone man to wander in after
set,
had
dark.
The fence thrown up was about three
feet high
excepting opposite the dead heifer, where it was about four feet and loop-holed for us to fire through.
Mogul Beg was
a strongly
made man,
cool,
plucky
and determined, in age about thirty years, and liad killed several tigers and many leopards. Like most a was lie fatalist. His Mussulmans, eyesight was he was a moreover dead shot at keen, remarkably
close quarters, either never failed him.
by day
or night, for his nerve
we had settled down, the moon rose, but unfortunately behind a conical, abrupt peak, so would be some time before its light would be shed upon where we were in hiding. We were thus
By
the time
in semi-darkness,
success
for
Young
as
and therefore I did not anticipate hope deferred had made my heart sick. I was I had had now nearly three years'
so although not
experience of sport
expecting
to
see anything, I sat perfectly quiet about a couple of feet to Mogul Beg's right. had been watching
We
barely an hour, the place we were in was still obscured in semi-gloom, when we heard the booming, if I may term it so, of the lungoor monkeys and chatterings
of smaller species.
"
Atta hi"
(He
is
coming), said
Mogul Beg.
without
the
Well, in about a quarter of an hour, slightest noise, an indistinct outline
" came between us and the " kill and squatted down on its hams like a dog, and lo it was not a leopard, but
!
a right royal tiger It sat so close to our fence, that by thrusting our guns out of the port-holes we could
!
have touched it. My heart beat faster than it was wont to do I felt a hand laid on my arm, and a voice
muttered,
"
Durro mut (Don't
every bit of pluck in

finger-ends, I
my
be afraid), Sahib." body had oozed out of
If
my
would rather have been torn
expose any signs of funk before my comrade, so I whispered back as indignantly as
than
to pieces sable
my
Tiger Shooting.
trepidation would permit, "
afraid)
?
Khoon durta" (Who is " Bahut acha, Sahib (Very good), replied
"
"
Mogul Beg.
I
thought it tiger began his meal, as he would then be a yard further off, but seeing my comrade poke his gun through the loop-hole, I did the same, and, taking a
careful aim, for
jelde (Fire quickly). would be better if we waited until the
Maro
"
the barrels of our guns were not a
foot from the brute's body, we both fired at the same instant Mogul Beg his two barrels, and I but one.
For the next moment or two what occurred I could not tell there was a deep roar, a huge body struggling about, scattering our fence right and left, a tail swishing madly to and fro, and two wretched mortals
crouched in the smallest possible space in the furthest corner of the cache, anxious only to be clear of it and observers at a greater distance. It was too close work
to be pleasant.
get a shot at the foe's head, but the body was gyrating like a teetotum where the head was one moment the tail was the next, the
I tried to
;
In vain
whole body threatening every second to be on the top
Mogul Beg could not load, for his powder-flask had been sent flying by a whisk of the tail, and I was just thinking of jumping up and taking the further fence at a leap, when I felt an iron grip on my
of us.
shoulder,
It takes
and a voice said

tell
in
my
"
ear,
Don't move."
time to
the
tale,
its
but the occurrence did
struggles the beast, after within a of us, went further off, and coming yard whilst struggling to get on its feet, fell over the
not last a minute.
In
dead
calf,
gave it on us, for we could hear the crunching of bones
and although almost at the last gasp, it a grip, which we were thankful was not inflicted

flesh.
and the tearing of

rolled over, slid
down
the tiger a steep declivity and fell into

after,
moment
nullah (ravine) which was covered In that we heard with a carpeting of long grass.
the
bed of
some little time, then followed a few moans, a gasp or two succeeded, and all was still. "Murffya" (He is dead), said the shikarie, and stood up. I was not sorry to follow his example, for I was bent and doubled, and so cramped that I could scarcely We consulted together and straighten my limbs. decided that, though the tiger was more than probably dead, we had better not approach it until the morning, so we made our way homewards. Whilst Mogul Beg went to his domicile in the village, about a quarter of a mile from mine, I tumbled into bed. I am a light sleeper and am generally wide awake at daybreak, a habit which has stuck to me through life. But that I was very tired I had ridden out eighteen night miles, had hunted the whole day, securing four first spears, and had returned home barely an hour when Mogul Beg had induced me to go up the hill. So, thoroughly wearied, I did not awake that morning till past six. By the time I had had my cJwta hazarie and had bathed and dressed, Mogul Beg, accompanied He was as by eight coolies, presented himself.
it
struggle
for
pleased as Punch, for he thought the reward then given for a dead tiger, Rs.50, was as good as in his It must have been past seven before we set pocket.
out, for there did not
seem
to be
much need
to be
in a hurry. climbed the hill, arrived at the scene of action, searched everywhere, but could find no
tiger
!
We
it
Was
all
dream
the
lay
the
dead
heifer,
for there Scarcely debris of our mart,

!
Tiger Shooting.
quantities of blood, and the broad trail where the tiger had rolled down the bank into the bottom of
Moreover the undergrowth was trampled marks except of blood, were visible, but no down, for the ground was parched and as hard as if comthe hollow.
posed of granite. Like fools we spent a couple of hours searching far and near, but were no wiser at the
end of that^ time, than we were at the commencement.
"I
its
am
afraid,"
said
I,
"it
has
got
away."
"Impossible,
"
Sahib,"
said
the
shikarie,
death-rattle."
is
"Then
where
said
can
the
"I heard he be?"

Mussulman.
coolies, as if suddenly with an idea, he asked if any of them had " heard any one leave the village early. Well," said " one of them, I saw Peecheemootoo go out at five with some of our people to bring in, as he said, a
what puzzles me," Then, turning round to the

struck
That
sambur he had shot over night." " Why," said Mogul " the fellow was standing close to my house at Beg, ten last night and heard me tell my brother that the sahib and I had killed a tiger on the hill. He must have stolen it before daybreak, but we will soon find him, and the sahib will teach him not to play
such pranks."
Now
for
Peecheemootoo was a
rival
low caste Hindoo
very good for marking down small game, which purpose I often employed him, and there was no love between him and Mogul Beg. We
shikarie,
hurried back and lost another hour or two in searching

for the suspect and his prey, but in vain ; no one had seen him, since he went to fetch his sambur. Some
one suggested that as the Tahsildar was holding
io
cutchery at Ebrampatam, eight miles off, perhaps he had gone there by bye paths, and taken the dead tiger to claim the reward. I was in a rage. " Why had the " fool not told us cutchery was being held so near ? So on a tat and over as bidding Mogul Beg get gallop fast as he could, I hurried back to my bungalow, mounted my horse, and made the best of my way to Ebrampatam, and the first thing I saw when I got there was a fine tiger lying in front of the cutchery. I dismounted and had an interview with the Tahsildar (an Eurasian) and he informed me that Peecheemootoo had brought in the beast and claimed the reward, which had been paid him. He asked what proof I had that the tiger was the one Mogul Beg and I had killed, "for," said he, "tigers are plentiful, and I only yesterday, paid another man a similar reward." Proof I had none, for w e had fired at such close quarters that our bullets had gone clean through the carcass. I pointed to the three holes and asked the official if he believed they were produced by a rusty old matchlock, such as native shikaries use, but he responded that he had no other course than to give the reward to the person who brought in the dead body. I then asked for the skin, but the Tahsildar had taken a fancy to it for So Mogul Beg himself, and declined to part with it. and I went back lamenting, but determined to thrash Peecheemootoo within an inch of his life but the wily native was not at home for many a long day, and when he did appear I had left Condapilly on sick certificate, having miraculously escaped from death Thus I after a six weeks' bout of jungle fever.
r ;
assisted to kill, yet lost
my
first tiger.
Somewhere about a month afterwards
a large
cow
Tiger Shooting.
1 1
had
off
its
back broken by a
tiger,
but
it
had been driven
by the gwalas before doing further damage. As the victim was not dead, I made sure the tiger would
return, so
route,
went about
five o'clock to sit
up over it.
En
an unusual object on a ledge of rocks far up caught my eyesight, and bringing my glass to bear upon it I saw that it was a tiger crouching down and noting our movements, so although I sat up all
the
hill
night, I need not say that the tiger did not put in an appearance. On another occasion a large bullock was killed near
a lot of detached rocks, and as but very little of it had been eaten, the givalas covered it up to protect it from vultures, which (ever on the look out for
carrion) soar about in the sky far beyond vision of the keenest of human sight. In
the
the
constructed a screen under the ledge of some rocks, with loopholes in front the carcase being secured with strong ropes to pegs driven well into
the ground. It must have been somewhere about ten, just as the moon was declining over some tall trees,
struggle and the body was jerked away, taken to our rear, and there the brute remained That he knew feeding the greater part of the night.
afternoon
we
when we heard a
we were there was evident, for if we moved there was a snarl, accompanied doubtless by a of
ivories.
There was nothing to prevent the
display brute
About three o'clock, after keepspringing upon us. us on tenter hooks for five mortal hours, he left off ing
we believed, went to a rivulet about a of a mile off for a drink. That opportunity quarter was taken to stretch our limbs, which were benumbed from the crouching position we had so been in.
eating, and,
long

to
and
a portion of the screen, so as to get a This In* sight of the tiger when he should return. commenced to do about four A.M. We could hear his
footsteps as he trod over fallen leaves, and we were but his prepared to give him a warm reception quick eyesight must have shown him the alteration w;
move
had made, and to our great chagrin we heard him retreat, and the sound of his steps gradually die away.
As soon as we could distinguish objects in the early dawn, we got out of our crib and took a stroll, more
for exercise
than anything
else,
and walked towards
the rivulet where very often jungle fowl were to be seen. The shore on one side was clayey that on the opposite was sandy and covered with pebbles and lo<
;
stones. The spoor of the tiger where he had crossed the river was distinct, and I was admiring the size of the pugs and regretting that he had not given us a
me on
chance of securing his pelt, when Mogul Beg touched the shoulder and with the other arm pointed at
something across the river. I thought it was probably a jungle fowl and held out the rifle to exchange it for a smooth bore, when he thrust aside my arm
abruptly, and pointed again.
thing.
I I still failed to see
any-
was evidently overlooking the object that
he wished to attract
attention to, so looking inI noted amongst some in the direction indicated tently low bushes a pair of ears, with the unmistakable white
spots
my
He was not watching us they were a tiger's his back was towards us, his head away something moving in the jungle beyond must have riveted his
!
gaze.
I
had a very accurate rifle in hand. 1 With it had practised a good deal, and I could break more
I
1
Made by Westley
Richar-1-.
Tiger Shooting.
13
limes at a hundred yards than I missed, and here the object to be struck was not more than fifty yards off.
a snap shot, but firing at a mark of course I align the sights. On this occasion I brought the fore sight to bear in the centre of the two white
As a
rule I
am
spots,
as a rock,
I was as steady and gradually pressed the trigger, holding my breath the while. A bang the smoke hung badly and when it cleared, nothing was to be seen. I was afraid I had missed, but could scarcely credit it, as I never fired more steadily in my life, so I asked " Has he run away ? " " Ne, Sahib," said falteringly,
but three or four inches lower.
Mogul Beg, murgya" He stepped into the rivulet, and I followed and found a fine tiger, measuring nine feet nine inches in length, and proportionately heavy, That was one of the happiest moments lying dead. of my early experiences the ball had struck the junction of the head and neck and death must have
;
"
been instantaneous. On another occasion
I had to keep tryst with some I whom was with friends, going on a shooting trip, into the Nizam's country that borders on the banks
of the Godavery, the rendezvous being Eagapore. was then temporarily with the headquarters of
my
regiment, at the time stationed at Samulcottah. month's leave wT as granted me, and Tom Prendergast, the Collector, having kindly sent on a purwannah
to
the
Deputy-Commissioner
of
Rajahniimdry
and
given me a general order on all native officials within his province to aid me in all " " daked out to Eajahniundiy, crossed things. I
the river and got into a
hackery, or native
cart,
which awaited
baggage
my
arrival.
My
guns and heavy

via,
had been sent on some days before
14
Incidents of Foreign Field Sport,
Ellore, only one boy remaining behind with food, &c., These carts are not sufficient for a couple of days. to be despised for travelling in. With a heap of straw
.
the bottom, a light mattress on the top, and a couple of pillows, one can be comfortable enough in
at
them, especially if you travel over the Government roads but I was going across country, my sole guide
;
being a section of the
by
of the district compiled the Topographical Department. These are wonder-
map
bye ways, villages, and even I had examined my map caresmall sheets of water. I The route proposed taking was not only far fully. shorter than that by Ellore, but it would be novel to
fully correct,
and show
all
had travelled the habitually used course several times. All went well until I had got half way, I then halted for a few hours at a considerable village,
me, as
I
put up in the choultry, a place

for
set apart principally
native travellers, intending to be again on the which would be directly the moon was well up, at 2 A.M. About 1 A.M. I was awoke by a voice uttering. " " Sahib, Sahib, chota hazarie tyar hi (Sir, your early I was out of bed in a moment, breakfast is ready).
move
to
my cup of coffee, poured half a dozen chatties (earthenware pots) of water over my head, and did not " Are the bullocks put take long to adorn my person. "
swallowed
?
I asked.
"
the reply.
The peon has gone to get them," was was getting very impatient at being
kept waiting, when the peon, a fine soldierly-looking old Mussulman, said he had been to the Tahsildar
(who had only just retired to rest, having had a nautch at his house) and that he had said that there " How is that ? " said I, were no bullocks procurable. "Did not the Burra Sahib send punvannahs to have " " Ho, Sahib," replied the man, everything ready ?
Tiger Shooting.
but the Tahsildar may his mother saluting. 1 is a banshoot all his female relations be denied
!
15
"
and and
"
?
thinks he can do as he likes."

said
"
I.
"
He
he
does, does he
Take some one with you and bring him here

if
is
by
the scruff of his neck, and
not before
me
I'll fetch him myself in a way he won't Bhoot atclia" replied the peon who by the bye was a pensioned sepoy saluting and spinning round on his heels in the most approved military style In a few minutes I of that day, took his departure.
like."
in five minutes "
heard a good deal of hubbub, and much native galee or abuse just as I was on the point of going after
;
the
myself, the peon entered, followed by fat, greasy, half-naked native, and a posse of his He barely salaamed, and I could see that followers.
man
he was not inclined to be
show that deference for a European in Government employment which, in those days, was our due from all,
civil,
or
to
whatever their position.

said
I.
"
How
is this,
Tahsildar
"
?
"
The
Collector Sahib sent
you orders
to have
relays of bullocks for " "
me two days
ago.
Why
"
are they
'
'
not ready ? Sir," said the native in fair English, " no no grass, provender got. How can make biles ?
Bad
"
I
season, all cattle sent away."
not send for them when you got the order
Why" did
?
you
I asked.
plenty business forgot," said the native. He saw was I young, and doubtless thought he could be I was on the impertinent with impunity. point of
teaching him
a
lesson,
when the peon remarked,
"Sub
jitt
bat
pair of
Mysore
"
1
Tahsildar got fine (All lies), Sahib. bullocks. If master give hukJcum, I
bring."
Oh, Sapperee bcqi" replied the greasy common term of abuse untranslatable.

"
Hindoo,
those not
last
who arrived " Not true,
my poor mother's, night and leaves for Ell ore to day." there was Sir," said the Mussulman
biles
my
'
'
but
they have evidently no love lost between them been here for more than a year and are the Tahsildar's " own." Bring them at once," said I, and ejected the official with a toe behind, which considerably
detracted from his dignity in the sight of his com" " if the bullocks are not and," I added, patriots here in five minutes, I'll have you punished." The
"
swagger was taken out of the man, but he kept protesting the bullocks were not his, but his mother's. The peon and Ramasawmy, my boy, returned with as fine a pair of Mysore cattle as I ever wish to see.
They had been pampered, and were somewhat

than they should have
fatter
hard work, but, thought I, they'll be thinner before I am done with I had them harnessed to my cart, and amid them.
been
for
the lamentations of the native

off
official
and his
satellites,
we went.
The bullocks went along merrily for some time. They were an excellent pair and could not have cost
than Rs.150 each, which sum doubtless the I native had accumulated by bribes and extortions. bullocks for those saw again, may here say he never He brought an reasons to be presently related.
less
action against me, putting his damages at Rs.500. Prendergast gave a decree in his favour for Rs.300,
the original cost, but fined him a similar sum for disobedience to orders, and removed him far away from the locality where he had ruled the roost so
long.
Thus he did not gain much by his action. The so-called road was a mere track, had never
Tiger Shooting.
17
been levelled for boulders were cropping up here and there, amidst numerous ruts while the waterThe animals, unused to courses were unbridged.
tired. Twisting their tails and had no effect, and at last they lay belabouring them down and refused to budge we were miles away from any village, it was not yet daylight, and if I
such travelling, soon
did not get to Eagapore that afternoon,
my
comrades
would have left. Urgent cases require drastic measures, thought my driver so, collecting a lot of dry grass, who cared little for the Tahsildar, the "ghariwan" as he belonged to another district placed it under the bullocks and set it alight. The effect was magical. " Up jumped the biles," and off they went threatening to upset the hackerie over the numerous rocks, " What is but presently there was another stoppage.
;
the matter
said
now
"
?
I asked.
"
Two
bears are in front,"
Eamasawmy, every
fright.
tooth in his head rattling

I,
with
the
What
a fool I was, thought

;
not to
have brought
my
gun with me
but between us and

long but
a
brutes the track was

grass,
covered with
dry
for
there
had been a drought, and
lighted match thrown into it, soon caused a blaze. The bears scampered away, and we continued our The moon was now obscured. course more sedately. We came to a nullah which the cart was not driven down properly, so it went in with a flop, and the As everything was getting wet, axletree broke Ramasawmy and I dragged my mattress, on which I
!
had been
little
lying,
on
It
to the
bank, and the driver unyoked
the cattle and
tethered
way
off.
some creepers, a was too dark and the jungle too

to
them
-dense for the people to venture into it at night for
the purpose of cutting a fresh pole to act as an axletree, but the driver said he knew of a village a
little
way
off,
and would go there
for fresh bullocks
for help. On his starting, Ramasawmy lit a fire, set a pot upon it, and prepared the ingredients for making an egg and sardine currie. Dawn, such as
and
it
is
in
the
East,
was approaching, jungle
and
pea cocks were crowing their matutinal greetings, and with that exception all was as still as death,
when
there was a rush and something sprang on to The other broke away and one of the bullocks.
rushed into the jungle, where could hear it struggling, so
it
too was felled.
We
it
was evident there

I
were more foes than one. My own position was not a comfortable one.
dared
not move, for I was only three or four yards away from the tiger who was slaking his thirst, drinking
the life-blood of one of the Tahsildar's pet cattle. Where Kamasawmy was I did not know he had
;
good tiger, mysteriously disappeared. drink, dragged the bullock with the greatest ease into the jungle, and I could hear the tearing of flesh and
the crunching of bones for some time, but directly After lookthe sun rose, the depredators departed.
The
after a
ing
I for some time, espied my boy on the of a tree close by, branches perched topmost and it required some threats and considerable per-
about
suasion to induce
him
to descend.
He
trembled so he
cou]d scarcely stand, but I gave him a tot of brandy and after a while he resumed his functions as cook.
sowar rode up with a letter from my friends, saying they were all ready to start and only waited for my arrival. I wrote across the
o'clock, a
About eight
Tiger Shooting.
letter
19
my
me
at once, as I felt sure
" " chit two, tigers. Instructing the sowar that the was of the greatest importance, he mounted and went
adventures and begged them to come to we could bag one, if not
then explored the locality and found the dead bullocks one partially eaten and the
off at full gallop.
I
other
all
but untouched
help to rig up a
wood which would machan, and then sat down to an

collected
early breakfast, but whilst I was still eating, the "ghariwan " arrived with a fresh pole and a relay of cattle.
was soon after repaired, dragged across the watercourse, and sent off to a distance. This done, with the help of a villager or two I erected two machans about eight feet high, for the trees were not large, and besides I anticipated no danger. The carcases were then dragged into the open in front of my perches and covered over with long grass to hide them from the birds of prey which otherwise would not have long left a scrap of them remaining. About 4 P.M. I was glad to see several coolies arrive with pittaralis (leather-covered baskets, which they sling across their shoulders on a bamboo) containing things
cart
r necessary for a dinner, as w ell as wines, beer, &c., the latter being immediately after their production submerged in the stream as an impromptu excellent
The
substitute for icing.

arrived.
I will
denote them as
had gone ahead to The adventures of the previous night we join him. discussed over our early dinner, and mounted our machans just as the sun was setting. As Eamasawmy was afraid to go alone to the village where the other people had gone, B took him into his perch. The
c 2
two of my friends and B the third our future camp, where we were to
5 P.M.,
About
2O

in a blue funk,
boy was
better
being with an than walking alone through the forest. We had a young moon about ten, and about eleven, or
but thought that of two evils, armed sahib on an elevation was
a tell-tale pit-a-pat, and a tiger appeared from one direction and another from the opposite. The two beauties commenced to
perhaps nearer twelve,
we heard
snarl at each other, so
see the upshot.
wishing to The duo gradually approached each

fire,
we reserved our
other with manes erect and lips drawn back, exposing formidable ivories, when a third, evidently a female,
showed herself on the scene and commenced to make a meal of the untouched ox which was opposite B's machan. When the lady commenced to satisfy her appetite the males sprung at one another, and whilst
and I fired four barrels. B also fired two struggling at the tigress. The belligerents, however, would not
and whilst struggling got right under B's At the same instant, the wounded tigress looked up, saw B, and with a roar sprang at him, The next lighting on the edge of his hiding-place. second there was a crash, a cloud of dust, and an awful cry. There was not much light, for the moon was then obscured behind a fleeting cloud, but we jumped off
separate,
machan.
our machan. and ran to the assistance of our comrade.
Nothing could we see of him. In vain we called, begging for a reply. A heap of debris only lay under where his perch had been. All this did not take up more than a minute, when we heard a shot, and hurrying towards the report and falling over creepers and torn with thorns, we came upon the body of our comrade lying under that of the tigress. Dragging the beast off we found B insensible, but alive, with
Tiger Shooting.
21
one arm broken in two places. Taking him into an open space, we did what we could to resuscitate him,
and when he came

ging him
barrelled
off,
to,
he told us that as they
fell
the tigress had seized

in
him by the arm, and was dragwhen he remembered he had a doublehis

belt.
;
Fortunately at that this enabled instant the brute paused for a moment him to draw the weapon and, putting it to her ear, fired,
pistol
and then became unconscious. We asked him, did he see anything of the two tigers ? He said he fell almost on top of them, but that they were engaged in too deadly a conflict to notice him and that they were still
He the tigress dragged him away. was very faint, but not seriously wounded a glass of grog revived him, and as he was a plucky fellow and
struggling
when
not despondent
as are
too
many who have been
mauled by a tiger we anticipated that he was in no immediate danger. Hearing the monotonous cry
of palanquin bearers, to intercept them did not take us long. Our delight may be imagined when in the occupant we recognised the superin1 tending surgeon, who was going his rounds of inof a set
He was spection, en route to Eagapore and Ell ore. out of his conveyance in a moment and soon dressed
B's
deposited him in the palanquin, saying he himself would walk but just then two of the sowars, who had been sent some way off, hear-
arm
and
One was dismounted and ing our shots, rode up. the doctor got on his horse and altered his course
from Eagapore to
Ellore. As soon as we had seen them off we thought of Eamasawmy, and fruitlessly we searched everywhere, to find only one tiger dead,
1
Dr. Lo Veil, a well-known shot.
22
more by the wounds inflicted on him by his antagonist than by the bullet one of us had given him. As we could find no trace of the servant, we thought the other tiger must have carried him off and so in all probability he was dead. At daybreak we moved off under the guidance of a native, and about two o'clock overtook C. We then went on to Buddrechellum, had rare sport with gaur and sambur, but got no more tigers. I had been probably a at couple of months headquarters, when one
killed
day
bent
decrepit,
half-naked
double,
walked
feet,
on
to
clasped
my
rubbing
man, almost and verandah my his head on them and

old
I blubbering violently. thought " Who are you ? " maltreated him.
some one
had
I asked, I fear in
no gentle
wretch,
in
tones.
"
Get out, or
"
at you."
I'll
set
Bob
"
bull terrier of mine) "
"
?
Oh !"
"
(an ugly cried the poor
Never saw you and never to see my life, hope you again. Get out " The man, still on his knees Here, Bob, seize him showed no fear of the dog, and the beast, cringing, contrary to his custom for he disliked strange natives and was apt to go for them went up to the unknown and instead of seizing him, began to lick his " face and otherwise to fawn upon him. See, master,"
!
master not know
me
"
the fellow, master's maty boy."

cried
"
Bob know me.

I
Eamasawmy,
"
burst out laughing.

"
Why
impostor," said I, Eamasawmy was about twenty-four, and has been dead these three " Sahib," months, whilst you are seventy, at least." said the mendicant, for he looked like one if ever a man did, " I Ramasawmy. Tiger done eat me up. I
you
vile old
then come back to
life.
live in jungle
many
days
Tiger Shooting.
23
'
and then
asked them, " Is that
come to master and lie say, You not Eamasawmy,' and not know me." By this time several of my other servants had come up, and I
I
"
all replied,
"
Kamasawmy
"
No, Sahib,"
peared, and when appealed

us,
; that," " " the to an old thief." If mendicant, pointing you don't know me," said the individual, " I know you," and he called each by his name. old butler then ap"
they
maty boy young man
My
to, said,
Sahib, he
knows
but we don't
wife
is
still
know
him.
"
his
here, I
But stay," said he, will call her, and if he is
He was surely she will know him." some little and then returned time, gone accompanied by a comely-looking wench, who, with the vanity of her sex, had kept him waiting to adorn her person before appearing before the Lord Sahib She was dressed in spotless muslin, and displayed not only various jewels, but a good deal of her charms I had often seen her. She was uncommonly well-made, not bad looking and young probably not over fifteen
Eamasawmy
!
but supposing her to be the wife of one of retainers, I had not given her a second thought.
she
I
my
As
air,
now appeared
before me, with a
mock modest
could not help thinking what a fine animal she " "Well," said I, "is that Eamasawmy." Oh,
wa,s. sir,"
she replied in fair English, and with as she thought " old enough to many a killing look, that old man
!
Here the mendicant went off She responded, and for five minutes the two railed at and abused each " Hold your tongues," said I "I don't want other. " all this talk, Is that Eamasawmy or not ? Here a " broke that in, saying, Sahib, horsekeeper very bad
be
my
"
grandfather
into torrents of abuse in Tamil.
24

too
woman
much tongue
got
she
tell
me Kam-
asawmy dead eaten by a tiger- and I marry her, but she too much bobbery make, and now Kamasawmy
comeback, he may take her again." Here the woman was nearly flying at him but the more she stormed and raved, the more the servants laughed, and at last I had to dismiss them all and tell them to settle amongst themselves whether the claimant was Kam;
asawmy
or not.
In the afternoon the butler told
me
that they had questioned the old man, that there was no doubt he was my former maty boy, but that fright
had blanched
want of food and exposure to the weather for several months had doubled him up with rheumatism, that he was now half-witted but harmless, and if I sent him away he would die of starvation, "for who would employ him, Sahib ?" So " I told him to let the poor fellow have a godown." He did a little work now and then, but often he wandered away no one knew where, and would be absent for days at a time, for a week or more. Occasionally woodcutters would bring him in and say they had found him in the depths of the forest and were afraid he would be killed. But if this was said in his hearing he would rejoin that he was already dead, and had been eaten, and nothing could hurt him again this went on for a year or The man was truly harmless, so was allowed two.
his hair,
do as he liked, but one day he disappeared the forest for good and was never heard of again wild beasts he had so dreaded, had a strange and
to
;
fascination for him,
and whether he
died,
or
was
In the eventually killed and eaten, I cannot say. meantime his wife was the cause of so much dis-
Tiger Shooting.
turbance,
25
had
she
that after tolerating her for some time I eventually to order her off, and I believe
ayah, but whether she became reformed in character I doubt for she was innately a bad woman.
became
an
instance of machan shooting and I Years after these on that subject. events I found myself once again at Eajahmundry in command of a wing of a regiment. We were cursed with a fussy commandant, and a fool for an adjutant. They were some way off it is true, but not a day passed without telegrams arriving about nothing, but to which an answer was expected then there were idiotic returns, of no earthly use to anybody, to be prepared daily, weekly, and monthly, so one had not a moment's respite from work. After sending off a budget, which I thought would
One more
done
have
take
head-quarters a week to digest, I sent on a boat ahead, "daked" out thirty miles, and by next evening found myself on the
the
martinets
at
top
of
Bison
had good sport

further on.
on the Godavery. I for two days, which will be related On the third day, on a further hill, I
Hill,
situated
killed a particularly large gaur," and sent some low caste coolies to fetch in the head. They returned
"
about noon saying that they could not approach the game as a family of tigers had taken possession of
it,
adding, that if I would start at once I should be sure of a shot and be back by night. Just as I was
prepared to go a coolie arrived with two telegrams from headquarters, the first asking whether it was true Yenketsawmy had cholera, and the second to
know why
the
first
had not been answered.
"
Con-
26
found
the
asses,
why
could
they
not
apply to
the doctor?" mentally I ejaculated. So scribbling a note to my wife, telling her to find out from the
medico and embody the answer in a telegram, I bid the man hasten back and in reward for his expedition he would get a good enam I then, (present).
accompanied by my shikarie carrying an extra rifle, and two coolies, not in the best of tempers setout.
About 3
P.M.
we got
to
our destination.
could hear the big cats at work, but they had dragged the gaur into a patch of heavy grass and there was no getting at them on foot. A convenient tree, however, overlooked the spot where they were feasting, so I planted light bamboo ladder, which I
my
always
It
carried about with
me when
I visit that locality.
was about four
feet too short to reach the

first
lowest
branch, but I sent the shikarie up

his assistance climbed
up into
my
and then with perch, the two
coolies betaking themselves to a small tree a little

off.
way
always have a few cartridges in my pockets, but the greater number were in my waterproof bag,
I
which it was the business of the shikarie to carry, but on this occasion, although I did not notice it at the time, he had given it to one of the coolies, so with the exception of those I had on my person, I was without ammunition. Fortunately both rifles were twelve bore. After climbing some way up the tree, I got a good view of a large and a medium sized tiger the first had the whole of his broadside exposed, but the second was partially hidden by the long grass. Taking a careful aim I fired at the centre of the shoulder of the large one and took a snap shot at the other as it bolted, and broke its back, and there it lay roaring
;
Tiger Shooting.
27
most
Instantaneously there were responding roars, and whether we were seen or not, a tiger rushed at our tree, apparently with a view of ascending it
lustily.
!
However, the only result of this effort was, that the ladder was knocked down. Taking the second rifle I fired a hurried shot, and slightly wounded the beast,
it took up its quarters in a heavy patch of There I fired about ten yards from our perch. grass five shots at it, but the brute shifted its position
when
each
us.
time,
and
continued to
roar
and
snarl
at
This tiger at the same time kept guard not only on us but over the two coolies. Feeling in
my
pockets I found I had but two cartridges left, so held out my hand to the shikarie for more, but my
disgust and rage minus the bag.
may be imagined when I found him What to do I did not know. Only a
monkey or
a native could descend from our tree with-
out the help of the ladder, and to do so under the circumstances would be madness, so there we were imprisoned for an indefinite period, and probably more
insane
commanding
!
immediate replies found us out, and led us a most lively time. The brute whose back I had broken was only a youngster and he did roar, while his mother responded throughout the entire night.
If I
telegrams waiting for The great red ants also soon

officer's
had had cartridges
should
have kept up
fire
driving her away, but
in the hopes of either killing her or I was obliged to retain the only
two I had left for an emergency. Thus passed I think the most wretched period I ever experienced in my life. An hour before daybreak the tigers became silent, so
telling the shikarie to break off a
fling
it
dead branch and

so.
towards the patch of grass, he did
An
28
immediate roar answered this salute, so we knew the sentry was still on guard, but as such a slight thing as a stick seemed to disturb her, I concluded to do what I should have thought of long before. I
my unmentionables, stuck a forked branch into them, hung my coat on that, stuffed both as full as I could of leaves, and thus made a guy which
as
divested myself of
much resembled
I
the
human figure
divine as a scare-
crow does a man.

turban,
tore
it
Bidding the shikarie take off his into strips, then sent him as far
safe,
and taking up a position to command the spot where the dummy would touch the ground, I, with rifle on full cock, waited events. " Chordoa," (let it go), I said. The man let it down and as it reached the ground the tigress sprang upon it and tore my habiliments to bits, but I fired in so doing exposed the whole of her body. steadily, and rolled her over with a ball through the neck and the other through her shoulder she died
;
out on to a lateral branch as was
Calling out to the coolies to descend and re-erect the ladder which they did after a little
without a groan.
delay, for the brute of a cub was not yet dead, and they were afraid to touch terra firma I eventually came
down, and ultimately killed the youngster. The shikarie then got admonished for parting with the cartridge-bag in such a way as he was likely to remember. On exto be the trousers found were amining my garments,
torn to pieces, the coat a mere shred. So there I was, more undressed than a Scot in full parade costume, and with a good four-mile walk through thorny
jungles before
me
ere I reached
my
tent.
En
route
we came
a
across two bears, and these charged viciously, unusual occurrence with these brutes when very
Tiger Shooting.
29
unwounded,
off seriously
so I floored the first
and sent the second

rifle
wounded.
a
Taking the second
followed the retreating animal quickly up, with

shirt
tails flying like
my
bunch of homeward-bound
Nevertheless luck favoured me. pennants. Then the secret of their pugnaciousness came out they had two cubs with them, of the size of
:
spaniels.
These interesting "varmints" we secured
after a severe struggle, for

like
they bit and scratched

"
demons.
I
from my wife begging me to return at once, as there were numerous official letters with "immediate" on them, waiting for me. On receipt of it I am afraid my language was more forcible than polite, but donning some fresh
raiment, leaving the shikarie to collect the pelts, I walked down the hill, got into my boat, and was back " "
at
At my camp
found a " chit
Eajahmundry by
three.
The
immediate
letters
were of no account, so answering them briefly and not over-politely, I consigned all fussy commandants
adjutants to Hades and once more resigned myself to the humdrum existence of detacharid their foolish
ment life. Some years
had been surveying in the Yomahs, Burmah, and having completed that season's work I was hurrying back
before
this
occurrence
so as to
before the rains set
have a few days' shooting at Myetchin, in. My servants and elephants
went along cleared paths, but hearing jungle fowl crowing and my shikarie elephant being sick, Mong-Oo (Mr. Egg) and I walked down the long slope which stretched from the foot of the hills to the plain below. The country was wonderfully free from that curse of
30

grass, the surface of the
Burma, the long kine
ground
being covered with a substitute which never exceeds In this cover we saw several ghee three feet in height.
(barking deer), a few pheasants, and jungle fowl. time we got in sight of a cluster of Karen huts,
By the
Mong-
Oo was
ers,
well laden, as he had a buck over his shouldand some six or seven birds attached to his belt.
for such
These Karens
was the race of
my neighbours
;
are scattered about in the remoter parts of Burma they and the Burmese do not agree, and their habits are
totally
dissimilar.
Whilst the former wander

or
about
forming
the
townyahs,
clearances
reclaimed
after
from
primaeval
forests,
and abandoned
two years' cultivation, the latter congregate together, and grow different cereals, principally rice. The Karens are a sturdy race, bigger and stronger than the Burmese. This distinction is more marked even among the women, who when obtained young, and We were taught cleanliness, make capital ayahs.
sufficiently
near
to
distinguish
groups of
women
hoeing a
field,
and others pounding paddy, when
skedaddle, the women made for the huts screaming, whilst the men rushed out of their
there was a
houses and gardens, with such arms as they could

lay hands upon.
"What
is
up?"
"
I
said
I.
"Surely
they can't be frightened of us."

has been
Shikarie.
killed,
think some one
and probably by a tiger," said the on and when near enough heard the death wail, and on reaching the village were told The that a girl had been carried off by a tiger. people were fearfully excited they had lived there over a year, and had not before been molested. The parents of the girl and her affianced husband
We hurried
Tiger Shooting.
31
were in great grief, sobbing and crying incessantly. It was some time before I could ascertain particulars, and then found that a tiger had rushed out of a
seized the nearest girl close by, had and retreated with her to his lair. I told them I would endeavour to kill the beast and recover the in the meantime body, if they would assist me they must keep quiet, collect all the so-called musical instruments they could lay their hands upon, and then I would place myself ahead for While the people them to beat towards me. were obeying my behest Mong-Oo and I explored. The extremity of the nullah commenced within two hundred yards of the cultivation, and the body had been dragged into it. Skirting the bank, we looked for a clearance or a tree into which we could climb and thus obtain a better view of the bed of the The only spot we could find was where a trunk ravine. had fallen, or had been felled, and formed a frail bridge It was very old and extending from bank to bank. able to bear our weight, and but decayed apparently as the grass had been trampled down either by wild beasts or the few buffaloes belonging to the Karens immediately in its front, I thought it would answer
nullah
our purpose, so walking along the stem we sat down about the centre, a few feet apart, and found, that we were about seven feet off the ground and could see
some distance
in advance,
and that nothing could pass
us without going under our perch. All being ready, stood waved the 'kerchief he usually tied up, Mong-Oo
it
round his top-knot, and the beat commenced. First was tried to set the grass alight, but the heavy dews had rendered it for the time fire -proof. After this
32
failure the natives
advanced in a compact body. Maneaters, indeed any tigers, are not to be dreaded when a lot of people act together and present an unbroken front, while the din the Karens made was enough to frighten the old gentleman himself. They were still only about half way between the starting point and us, when, without a rustle even, a brindled body bounded forward as if from a catapult, and lit between us, on the debris hanging over the trunk, which, being more rotten than we thought, cracked in two,
and fell with a great crash into the bed of the ravine. Over we all tumbled, luckily clear of the fallen mass, which was of no mean weight. I rolled over and over, until I was some way off fortunately retaining
hold of
at
my rifle
then recovered
my feet.
Mong-Oo
was on the opposite bank yelling to

?
me to fire.
What
could see nothing but a cloud of dust, but " " and deep groans, I looked aughs hearing sundry towards where we had been sitting, and under the
I
fallen tree I could see a tail flourishing and a part of a brindled body struggling violently in its endeavours
to extricate
itself.
Not
if I
know
it,
thought
I,
and
put a couple of balls in just stepping up behind the jaw, at the junction of the neck, for the animal, a tiger, was on its back, all four feet in the
quickly, I
air,
and the log resting across

rifle
its
mechanically I reloaded my it would be required, but out of sheer habit
While body. not that I thought
Mong-Oo
advanced to pick up the 'kerchief which had done duty for a turban, and had fallen off in the
scrimmage.
very slight movement in the grass
caught his eye. In a warning.
He
hesitated
I
moment
held up his hand as a was behind him, capped
Tiger Shooting.
33
my
Out nipples, and had both barrels full cocked. outstretched sprang a tigress, down went Mong-Oo,
my
rifle
exploded, and I was thrown to the ground, the Her chest beast falling just beyond me in a heap. of muzzle with the come into had contact my rifle,
she left the marks of her fangs on the barrels, but the bullets had done their work, passing clean through the heart into the abdomen, and breaking the spine
there was some Karens to advance through the long grass, and they began to scatter, but re-collecting them together, I placed myself at their head. With half-a-dozen tom-toms and four cholera horns beating and blowing, we made a din which, if it did not frighten a tiger into fits, would certainly render him deaf for some considerable time Soon we came otherwise unthe stone but dead, poor girl, upon touched. After the body was removed, the beat was continued on till within fifty yards of the fallen trunk, when cubs were found, which the Karens knocked on the head. I halted at their village that day, got the people to collect a quantity of brushwood ''and dry grass, and about 3 P.M., set the grass in the This time it burnt merrily and ravine again on fire. was not extinguished till midnight, when the dew put it out. Still the conflagration had cleared the nullah for several miles, and the villagers ran little or no risk of wild animals visiting them, until the cover had regrown. I fancy these tigers had wandered The female to where we found them by mistake. had been confined only a few days, and as they could find no game, they had taken to homicidal
close
to
the
loins.
After this
hesitation on the part of
practices.
'
34
Shooting Tigers on Foot is exceedingly dangerous. tiger can hide behind a bush and be invisible
where you would think a hare could not conceal itself. Again they will lie perdu until their pursuer is within striking distance, when even if shot through the heart, will at times have enough vitality left to kill a dozen men. Only when the spine is
brain penetrated, can one reckon on a mortally-wounded tiger being harmless. Never
severed,
or
the
approach a tiger, With one expiring

if it
even when in articulo mortis.

effort
he
may
deal a blow, which,
maim. This is a mode of sport which should be undertaken only by experienced and cool hunters, who can rely on They unfailing nerves and accuracy of eyesight.
does not
kill, will seriously
who made
I
follow
their lives
tiger in thick bush, carry in their hands. I don't pretend that I
up a wounded
a practice of this
it
mode
have had to do
many
of tiger slaying, but times, and of the two*
I think I prefer
running the risk attached to killing

tree. I will
a tiger on foot, to potting him off a give a few experiences.
here
of a tiger having killed a grasscutter's tat (pony) was brought in one day, and three of us sallied out accompanied by thirty Ghoorkhas, those well-
News
known plucky
amongst the The pony lay in a best of our soldiery in the East. hills in the slight depression (Cossyah) and it was easy We at first to trace the line its destroyer had taken. followed up in single file, Colonel H. leading, until we came to an extensive elevated plain, covered with We then formed grass from three to four feet high. line, H. in the centre, B. on the right, and I on
little
fellows
who
are
Tiger Shooting.
the
us.
left,
35
We
moved along
with the sepoys equally divided between quickly, hoping to find the
marauder lying out in the open, the only sound to be heard besides our footsteps being an occasional tap on the ground given by the men every now and
then with the long laities or sticks with which they were armed. The dew had been very heavy, the grass
so were we before long. It was a animal to trace trail of the easy large through this savannah. Within half a mile the track we had been
was saturated, and
following bifurcated but the two led towards a nasty ravine, which had before now proved a stronghold of not only tigers, but also of leopards and bears. The
;
excepting a sapling here and there, intermixed with a few dwarf scattered pines. Seeing the ravine so close at hand we
plain
treeless
we were on was almost
despaired of finding our

carelessly
strolling
game out
with
of cover
shoulders, "
tiger),
when one
!
Dekho, Sahib
along of the Ghoorkhas called out, baghjata hi" (Look, sirs, there is a
our
rifles
and were on our
and sure enough, between H. and me, a tiger was making the best of its way over the plain. We could only see him now and then as he cantered along,
we both saluted him. He responded with a deep " " but continued growl as much as to say Curse you his course. No sooner had we fired than a cry of
yet
!
"
Bagh ! bagh
"
!
arose
all
along the
;
line.
Three
other tigers were scampering along two appeared full opened a fusillade, all grown, the other a cub.
We
three firing three or four shots, for the orderlies promptly handed us the spare rifles, reloading those we had discharged they were breechloaders, of course.
One, a
tigress, rolled
over, but regaining her feet,
D 2
36
pulled herself together with her head towards us, and no sooner did she spy us than she came at us with a
She made straight for H., who reserved his fire, B. and I blazed away, apparently without any result. H., who was a plucky, phlegmatic sort of fellow, cool and collected, waited until she was within ten paces of him he then gave her the right barrel. This caused her to stumble, but recovering herself, growling and roaring most diabolically, she almost sprang upon him. B. and I had closed up whilst she was in the air H. sprang aside, turned round, the three of us fired. and seizing a rifle from his orderly gave her both barrels but she was dead, pierced by no less than nine bullets. The slain was a small hill tigress, measuring only eight feet five inches. We covered her over with grass, which the sepoys cut with their kookries, and placing a handkerchief on a stick in a bush, to indicate the spot, we followed the other tigers. There was blood only on one spoor, and the beasts were well in the
will.
T
w hilst
ravine before
we got
to its edge.
It
Now the ticklish part

as nasty a place
of the work commenced.

to go into after a
was about
The ground was
tiger as can be imagined. uneven, cut up into fissures ; there
wounded
were dense bushes in parts, rocks in others, just the spot for a tiger to hide in and charge when
least expected.
manner
in
was amusing to see the nonchalant which the Ghoorkhas advanced, stooping
It
to pick the ripe tiparie, or cape gooseberry, which This fruit is grew in profusion perfectly wild.
delicious,
even
when
made
into
preserve.
Our
advance was slow and cautious, and whenever we came to a boulder higher than its neighbours, a man
quickly ascended
it
and spied around.
We
had de-
Tiger Shooting.
scended one
side,
37
reached the bed, which was some twenty yards broad, but densely jungly, then followed the trace of blood, as the bushes were liberally
Evidently the fugitive was hard hit, so we all got as close together as the nature of the ground would admit, our rifles at full cock and our
sprinkled with
it.
orderlies
this
in
close
attendance.
The sepoys knew
ground well, as here, only a short time before, they had by themselves traced up and shot a tigress, and they said, " The tigers will not lie up until they
reach that ledge of rocks yonder," pointing to the hill side, some way off, where the action of water had worn
the stone into
crude caverns.
It certainly
was a
nasty-looking place, and we feared that if the game took up their position among them our task was fruit-
but before we got half way, a roar from the left was answered by one on the right, and two tigers bore
less,
down upon
us.
We
fired,
but not before the beasts
had penetrated our line. Over went a man close to me and another near to H., and before we could seize our extra weapons, turn round and fire, both assailants had disappeared. The men who had been floored were happily only slightly wounded one lost a part of an ear, and the other had been clawed on the shoulder but the beast had not got off scot free, as
a Ghoorkha, the Havildar
one of our best cricketers
and
football players, who unhappily was afterwards killed in an attack on a Naga where he ' o stronghold, o
greatly distinguished himself had given the brute a blow with his kookrie, which we found afterwards
had
was bleeding to death when we finally came upon it lying under a bush. Not fifty yards further had we proceeded
all
but severed
its foreleg.
It
38

there was another charge, this time of course It was well riddled but not killed. only one beast.
when
by
Fearing some casualty amongst our followers, deeming the beasts mortally wounded, we were for leaving
them
plucky
until the
little
next day. but the

H., their
blood
of
the
hill-men was up and they begged

the fight.
us
to continue
He and against our going on. not on the best of terms, and he
would be blamed. But the Ghoorkhas were determined
killed he
commandant, was the brigadier were feared if a man was B. and I, seeing how and it is not wise
is
to thwart
them when
their blood
up
begged
him two
had
to gratify them. gave the Havildar and of the best shots our spare rifles, telling them to
We
use them
necessary, and then advanced. The sepoys silently dropped their laities and drawn their
if
Jcookries (a
weapon without which no Ghoorkha will we knew if the beasts were not killed by and move), our bullets, the men would force a settlement with
their knives.
However, when the brute charged the next time, he was duly rolled over. As the trail went no further we came to the conclusion that one tiger
had been left behind, so thus retraced our steps. A Ghoorkha on the extreme left soon spied the tigress wounded by the Havildar, rushed at her in the most insane manner, and gave her a crack wilich laid open her head. She, although all but dead and weak from loss of blood, made a grab at him with her sound paw which tore the sleeve off his arm and left deep marks of her claws in the flesh. It is a wonder that he fared no worse. Thankful that w e had got off so well, and satisfied with the day's work, we told the men to collect the slain and bring them to the Mess
r
Tiger Shooting.
39
House, and while they went to get their laities we trudged home. We had forgotten all about the cub
Directly our backs were turned, they searched for him, found him, and literally hacked him to pieces, receiving sundry wounds in the encounter
not so the men.
for
he was fully as large as a big
St.
Bernard dog
but these
men made nothing
of the mauling they got,
only treating their wounds with laughter and joke. Such are these plucky good-natured Ghoorkhas, with whom I have had many a hunt. On service they are
no troops in the world. They do not fear death in the least, and would, if ordered, as soon march up to a loaded battery of guns as enter into a game of football. The only drawback, if it can be called one, is, that if they meet with a stubborn then there resistance they get wild with excitement In such emergencies is no holding them in hand. they drop their rifles, and rush in with their kookries, when the strife becomes a case of slaughter: for
inferior to
;
I either they are killed or slay all opposed to them. wish we had a couple of hundred thousand of them in I think they would astonish the a European war. flower of Continental troops. I
have been at other hunts after tigers on
foot,
alone and in company, but space is limited for I have to give instances of other modes of killing the right
royal beasts.
Shooting off Elephants out of Hoivdcihs is very There is just enough danger in it to stir exciting.
up
one's
blood.
If
every elephant used could be
thoroughly depended upon at all times, there would be little risk, but an elephant that is perfectly staunch
4O
one day will probably turn tail the next, and a powerful tiger is capable of pulling down a large When your mount gets really frightened, elephant. it becomes ungovernable, and is as likely to tumble
into a pitfall, or to go over the steep side of a nullah or precipice, or what is far worse and far more frequent,
if
it,
a forest be anywhere near, to run
amuck through
will be smashed to pieces, and tossed you about, and if you are your weapons not killed, well, you are lucky These leviathans,
!
when your howdah
so sagacious at times, when in a panic are really idiotic, and rush for the very place they should avoid I have killed more tigers off elephants than in any
!
way but then for twenty-one years I had a number of elephants at my command, and the right
other
;
of travelling over districts extending over 400 miles in length and some 200 in breadth, in which were
extensive plains covered with grass of from three or four to twenty feet high, and swarming with game. Departmental elephants I took care should also be
good
for shikar, as I
had the purchasing of them, not
unfrequently adding Ks.500 to their price out of my own purse in addition to the Es.2000 allowed by Government, that I might obtain really good beasts.
The same animals I used incessantly for years and With good feeding, careful years, and never lost one. and never handling, overworking, when I made them
over to
my
and
in
as
successor, they were in prime condition good of their kind as could be obtained
I
India.
regret
to
say, however, that, within
eighteen months not one out of six I left behind me was alive. Besides the Departmental elephants, I had one or two of my own, and the right of
Tiger Shooting.
41
indenting on the Commissariat for four, and as the head of that Department was an old brother officer
gomastha worked under me, I got the (sub rosa) pick of the keddah and knew far more about the elephants than did any one in charge of the
his principal
and a great chum and

as
contractor
animals.
On
one occasion Archie
missioner of
Kamroop,
lately Deputy Comthen in the charge of the

C.,
Burpetta subdivision, and I were beating in the dooars for whatever we could get. Our luck had not
a couple of hogdeer, when a givala appeared on the scene and told us a family of tigers had killed no less than six of his cattle. Now an Assamese cow or bullock is a
;
been great
for
we had only bagged
miserable
little beast.
One would
scarcely suffice as a
for a leopard, so is therefore little more than a flea-bite for his royal relation. On this account very
meal
often tigers will kill a lot of cattle more than they can consume drag them into densely- wooded nullahs
or jungles, where they are safe from the ken of carrion The birds, and there eat them at their leisure.
higher the meat the more tigers seem to like it, and woe betide any stray jackal that dares to encroach on
their larder, for the proprietor is never far off. But to return to the givala s story. The cattle killed
were untouched
not even cold so, ahead towards a small forming line, straight bheel where there was sufficient water and cover to afford tigers good shelter. General D. Hamilton no mean authority has said that he has never seen a tiger take a bath but then his experience was acquired
several
were
we beat
principally in the Neilgherry
and other
hill ranges,
42

;
where the climate is cold but in other parts of India, Assam and Burma, in the hot season, the
tiger dearly loves
plains, if
a moist
locality.
In
vast hot
there be any bheels about, and you are in search of tigers, make for them, for if there is one
in the vicinity, there he will be found.
r
anywhere
So
in the full assurance that before long w e should make the acquaintance of the royal family, we continued to advance, C. on the left and I on the right, with eight
Our mahouts elephants closely jammed between us. were always very keen when out with us, for we divided all Government rewards between them. We
none exist in Assam. A Cacharie mahout, who was afterwards for some years in my
had no
shikaries, as
employment, a plucky fellow, knew every inch of the dooars and he was besides without exception
the very best
tracker
ever saw.
till
The elephants
to the edge unsteady, to
moved along
of the bheel
;
briskly enough
we got
they then began to be
give tongue, in other words to make dismal noises, and as there was no solid ground, they flickled the
tips of
their trunks against their own legs, and in other ways gave us plainly to understand that they
advanced under compulsion. shot and had entered about

marsh, when, as
several
tigers,
if
We
had not
fired
fifteen
yards into the
as
far
by a preconcerted arrangement, as we could judge, rushed
could see the water roaring in our direction. hidden by the were themselves the but splash, tigers
We
opened fire a little ahead of the but I don't think we touched one of moving grass, them. The uproar now was more than our elephants
vegetation.
We
could stand even packed as they were, so they broke
Tiger Shooting.
43
away from the mahouts, spun round on their own axis, and made a strategic movement to the rear One tiger which followed my mount to the very edge
!
of the cover I got a glimpse of, for I had turned round and stood in the howdah, ]ooking back, expectAt it I took a snap shot ing what had occurred.
and
hit it
somewhere, for
of course,
it
bit of
luck,
as
gave a roar this was a no one can be sure of

;
killing an object even the size of a tiger when " But " Lutchmee carried along at racing speed. was a very smooth goer, and so used was I to living, as it were, on an elephant's back, that I was tolerably
at
my
ease whether
it
was standing
still,
walking, or
at full gallop, which
is by the way an amble, for move both legs on one side at the same elephants From constant practice I could shoot snipe time.
backs nearly as well as I could on foot, and this knack has stood me in good stead when being
off their
chased either by a buffalo, rhinoceros or tiger, as I think the reader will acknowledge when he has read
more
not stop the " kills," elephants until we had got as far as the which, by the bye, were being devoured by thousands
of
this
volume.
We
could
of vultures
who pounced down upon them from

of
every
quarter
their
the
heavens.
told them,
After
if
into the mahouts,
we
pitching they did not
keep
beasts
together
and
in
their heads to the foe, they would get but instead a taste of the stick.
If the elephants
with line, no backsheesh
ankus," or driving hook, they could be induced to advance. Again the
now doubly so, was only by a
were in a funk before, they were literally trembling with fear, and it
"
free use of the
44
tigers tried the
same
had
tricks,
but with
less success this

it
time.
One charged home (we found afterwards that

I
was the one
fired at)
and
the leg, near the foot, but C. neatly bowled it over ; the others, finding our phalanx unbreakable, wheeled off to the right and left, and
an elephant in who was the nearest,

bit
took refuge in a nasty boggy part of the bheel, into which the elephants could not penetrate. Fortunately
had some rockets and other fireworks with him, and after discharging a few infernal machines,
C.
we
started the
game
afresh.
They did not attempt
marsh, as the country on our right side was open, and on the other our elephants had
to leave the
trodden down the grass, so that there was no cover C. now for them to hide in if out of the quagmire.
went to one side of the bheel and I to the other, where I was on pretty firm ground. Everywhere
we
beat about, but could not see a sign of a tiger, and there ought to have been one, if not two.
Getting out
bush, to
fire,
of
the
C.
watch
swamp I I saw him
halted close
raise
to
his
gun and
moment
and
over the side of his howdah, and the next a tiger sprang clean off the ground, and
it with both teeth There was a crash, the elephant fell on sending C. and the mahout flying, and
seized hold of the lower bar of

claws.
to its side,
then there was the
devil's
own
hallabaloo where the
mass of
was struggling. I was glad to see the bipeds pick themselves up as I started for the On moving off, a sound scene of the accident. made me turn round, and from the very bush by which I had been standing for five minutes or more,
flesh
out rushed a
tiger.
fired in
such a hurry, that
Tiger Shooting.
45 both
barrels.
am ashamed
to
say
missed
with
Before I could get to the fallen elephant, a huge
"mucknah" (a tuskless male), he, after moving his legs up and down like a pendulum, recovered his feet, and immediately commenced to play football with the tiger,
kicking
it
forward with a hind foot, and throwing if the brute had not been back with a fore
it
;
dead, he could not have long survived such treatment. We had to take two female elephants, one on either side of him, before we could pacify him
and get him away. The only wounds he had on him, were the claw marks of the tiger's hind legs, by which he had clung to the elephant's belly. The howdah was smashed to bits, one of C.'s guns had a broken stock, so, considering all things, the elephant, On and the two men escaped wonderfully well. in the found we almost bone tiger every examining for he was literally kicked into a his body broken C.'s last shot had caught the foe fairly in the jelly. chest, passed through the lungs and stomach, and
;
its exit close to the rump. If the elephant, who was standing on a declivity which gave way, and caused him to fall, had not squashed him, the tiger must have died of his wounds. My comrade was terribly shaken, but no bones were broken. Leaving the mahouts to pad the slain, C. got on to a pad elephant, and we went back to camp, whence we sent in to Burpettah for a howdah.
made
Next morning
beat about
all
my
out, so taking all
comrade was too poorly to go the elephants, I went alone. We
day, getting only a small deer or " " two, and then a cry of Bayh ! arose, and from a
detached clump of long grass out rushed a
tigress,
46

for the
making
same bheel as witnessed the previous I was quickly after her, and, odd to day's adventure. the behaved elephants admirably. I suppose from say, carrying home the tigers the day before, they had become accustomed to the smell, so when we put the game up and she made the usual feints at charging,
the elephants did not budge. At length we got her into a corner, where we lost sight of her, but presently she sprung from the stump of a tree clean on to the back of a small beating elephant, lighting on the pad
as noiselessly as a cat
might have done.
As she was
now
only a few yards from me, I dropped her stone dead, and she remained on the pad as if she had been
These were the placed there for removal to camp. only tigers we got that trip, but I believe that the
family consisted of six in all, for we heard of several " " afterwards in that neighbourhood, but kills
although we went after them time after time, they always managed to evade us.
could multiply indefinitely instances of tiger shooting off elephants, but the following, I think, I was once beating a particularly deserves mention.
I
chur below Doobree, and the Deputy Commissioner of the Garow Hills, a clever plucky fellow, a splendid shot, and the most rising man in the Assam Commission, We killed several tigers and speared joined me. numerous hog, which run big there and fight hard. One day we came across a huge tiger, which W. hit
hard.
It
took up
its
position in a
dense thicket
which no elephant would go into. W. dismounted his mahout, took his place, drove the elephant in as far as he could, then stooping well over his beast's head got a glimpse of the tiger, and shot it
Tiger Shooting.
dead.
It
47
as I ever
was as plucky and cool a thing

life.
saw
I
in
my
it
once met with a curious adventure and

here.
It
may
mention
smacks of the marvellous, but it is I had sent my wife and nevertheless perfectly true. children for a change to Ootacamund. During the
;
monsoon the works on the lighthouse, in the construction of which I was then engaged, were in abeyance, and therefore there was no difficulty in obtaining leave. I crossed over from Burma, spent a month or two at Ooty, and then tried for elephants and gaur in the
Wynaud Forest, making Coimbatore my headquarters.
A fortnight
had been shooting and had had fair sport, killing several gaur, sambur and one elephant, but it was hard work, and I was thinking of returning to Ooty, when some Corumbirs, who live in the dense jungles much as the Karens do in Burma, and have but an apology for clothing, appeared one day and
I
reported that a wonderful tusker frequented the forest in their vicinity. Casually they mentioned too that
a tiger had lately been killing a good I had still a fortnight remaining of the
many
month
people.
I
had
devoted to sport, so thought that

try and pick up a good country of a man-eater.
might just as well pair of tusks and rid the

I
Packing up my goods on bullocks I returned with them. I searched the jungles for five days. The marks of a large elephant were
certainly visible, but the animal himself
we
could
never come across.

"
"
As
for the man-eater, there
were
kill here and a kill there, but when reports of a I got to the place the replies were indefinite or nobody visible. On the sixth day a man rushed into
"
"
my
camp, and said his daughter had been killed that
48
morning at daybreak, and if I would come at once they would beat for the beast, and that people had surrounded it. I hurried there, but the corpse had been removed and was being cremated. Also the circle formed round the man-eater had been so defective that he or she had got away. I was very angry, and swore they might all be decimated before
I
trudged a mile to save them.
These people are
very superstitious, and believe that if the body of a person killed by a tiger is not recovered and burnt,
the defunct will arise and destroy all its relatives who have failed to give it the rights of burial, which in most cases means being burnt. I then removed my
camp
the
further inland about ten miles, searching for tusker daily without getting a sight of him.
Hearing of a human being being killed here and there, notwithstanding what I had stated, I did go frequently to try and get a shot at the homicide, but it was all in vain the people would not leave the victims, but
;
could get to the scene of the the eleventh On day I came upon fresher tragedies. marks than usual of the tusker, and was following them up, accompanied by my shikarie, a local man,
drove the tiger
off before I
and a Karumba. We were far from the haunts of man, and all was solitude, when there was heard a piercing shriek of some cry, which was unmistakably the death
miserable creature struck
down by
a beast of prey.
I rushed forward, followed most reluctantly by two attendants, and found a poor wood-cutter.
my
He
was a small, wiry, probably about forty years of was scarcely out of age, all but naked, and the breath him to ascertain whether over his body. As I stooped
there was the least hope of his recovery, I found that
man
Tiger
S/looting.
in, as
49
with a
the back of his skull had been beaten
sledge-hammer.
When
turned round the
Karumba
was making
tracks, evidently with a
view of giving
some villagers, and as I knew if he once got away we should have a posse of men with torches coming for the body, I caught him by the scruff of his neck and told him if he attempted Now to leave I would break every bone in his body. that I had a corpse I meant to utilise it, so I forcibly detained him and made him and the shikarie, collect wood and erect a " machan." The body lay with the face uppermost, and had fallen amid some brushwood close to a stout sapling, while a fair-sized tree commanded the position from a distance of about fifteen yards. There was fortunately a good moon, so soon before dusk we climbed into our perch, the villager muttering that it was sacrilege we were guilty of, and that surely the corpse would arise and slay us. Finally
notice of the misfortune to
I
procured silence by telling the men,
if
they made
the least noise, I would tie them up as living bait. It was a gruesome sight, watching that dead body as
the
I
moon shone on its face,
must own, were it try and rid the country man-eater, I would even
to camp.
exaggerating every feature. not that I considered it a duty to

of that awful infliction, a
at the last
moment have
Eleven o'clock
gone back The time went by but slowly. arrived no appearance of the tiger.
;
Some
I
tall trees
cast a
shadow over the
corpse, but
could not take
my eyes off that poor, thin, ghastly upturned face, when,

one eye opened, then the other soon after an arm moved, succeeded by a shiver of the body.
oh, horror
!
Was
it
going to
rise
and
kill
us as the
men
asserted
5O
It
was too absurd.

too, felt as if icy
The
sight
was too much
for
my
companions.
I,
They dropped
Even cold water was being poured down

forward in a swoon.
the back of
getting,
I
my
neck.
Demoralised
I
was certainly
do not think that
could have borne the
gruesome sight much longer, when there was a roar, and a brindled mass sprang at something which was invisible
to me. Instantaneously a vast speckled body coiled itself round the brindled matter, there was a struggle,
bones seemed to be crunched to

feeble
bits,
all
the tiger gave a
roar
or
two, and then
was
still
except
an occasional convulsive upheaving. In that fearful effort, the corpse had been shifted so that its wide and sightless orbs no longer stared upwards. That What had occurred I could not alone was a relief.
1
lay prone with their hands over their faces, muttering that we were now as good as dead. 'Giving one a slight kick, I asked him what he
still
conjecture. their faint,
The men, when they recovered from
The corpse wil] kill us, "he muttered. "Why, you fools," said I, "the dead come not to The woodcutter is dead, and something life again.
was
afraid
of.
"
We shall know all about it has killed his destroyer. in the morning. I am going to sleep you had better
;
do
so too."
I
knew they were
from the machan and seek a

night, so
I
in too great a fright to descend village at that time of
making myself
as comfortable as I could,
and dozed off, giving a convulsive start now and then as I dreamt that the woodcutter was threatening me. But everything has
turned over on
my
side
.an end.
1
That long, long night at length terminated,
There was a good deal of brushwood and debris about.
Tiger Shooting.
and thankful
day and hear the jungle fowls proclaim that sunrise was at hand. Losing no time I descended to solve last night's mystery, the sight that met my eyes was marvellousI
was to
see the
dawn
of
A huge rock snake,
a python, just over twenty-one feet
in length, lay coiled round the body of the tiger, whose fangs in turn were imbedded in the back of the snake's
head, while the reptile's folds, after enveloping the a purchase by lashing its tail round the tiger, had got adjoining sapling, and so assisted the vast muscular
power it possessed in crushing the tiger to death. On examining the corpse of the man, we found saliva or slime over the face and the upper part of the body, and so I have no doubt the snake had thus
prepared the
human
tiger sprang upon their deaths as described.
prize for swallowing when the it, resulting in the two meeting
The movements of the
man's body were doubtless cavised by the snake's pressure and by its progress round and about the
carcase.
still
sufficient
The python, though dead some hours, had muscular power left to make it appear
These reptiles are properly called boa
dangerous.
constrictors, for their
have a purchase to heard the natives tell wonderful tales about their strength, even to their making buffaloes their victims.
Snakes
power of contraction, when they aid them, is immense, and I have
may have
meal
the power, but as they could not
they would have no object in assaulting them, unless under similar circumstances
a
off a buffalo,
make
to those related above.
Having procured coolies, with the united strength of twenty men, aided with coils of strong rope, we unwound the snake from its hold on the tree, when a
E 2
52
cart being procured, the two, lying dead in each other's embrace, were conveyed to the village.
Having secured a rough sketch of the extraordinary scene, I had the snake skinned, but the people failed to hang it out of the reach of prowling jackals, and five feet of it was torn away. It was thus lost as a specimen. I thought it very large at the time, but subsequently I saw two snakes killed each over twenty-four feet in length. But one live to the of wander in and Methuselah, might age the forests for five hundred years and never see such a sight as that witnessed by me that night. The dead woodcutter was duly cremated. I remained a week longer, got the " tusker," but heard no more of
anybody being killed. fore, that it was the
There
is
little
doubt there-
veritable man-eater that
was
1 destroyed by the snake. The tiger was only eight feet one inch long, in perfect condition as to skin, but very
her food either did not agree with her or she did not get enough of it, and I strongly
emaciated, as
if
suspect the latter was the case, for so vigilant were these people that they never gave the depredator time
to
make a square meal off her numerous victims. But for the chance of my having witnessed the woodcutter's death,
and so prevented the men removing
the corpse, the probabilities are the man-eater would have lived many a day longer and continued its
ravages upon the human family. In the Yonzaleen, Burma, man-eating tigers are very numerous, in other parts of that country they
comparatively speaking, unknown. But occasionof a person being killed here and ally one hears
are,
1
It turned out to be a tigress.
Tiger Shooting.
53
there, although the remoter villages are protected by either a palisade or by a strong fence of thorny
bushes.
had a lime quarry about thirteen miles from Tongho. There I had built a good house, out-offices, etc., but a tiger one night killed a valuable pony of mine in the stable. I sat up for him, and hit him hard, but never got him. Then for about a year we heard nothing more of tigers, but news was brought to me by one of my workmen that several people had disI
appeared from an inland village, about fifteen miles from the limekiln station, so I determined to pay
it
a visit
and arrange
for a hunt.
The country was
very rough, being a series of low hills covered with dense bamboos with other jungle, nasty swamps
occurring between
them,
were utterly useless. seldom burnt, so undergrowth was excessive, making Thus alike impracticable. stalking and beating chance of a shot was to sit up over a the only *
"
kill."
elephants as beaters Moreover the interstices were

so
day's journey from the "kilns" up the lovely Thouk-y-ghat, or drinking-water stream, the country
was opener, and yit, (pheasants), jungle fowl and So I had a hut built barking deer were to be found. there close to a toivnyali or clearance, where three or four Karens lived, who looked after my effects I was well known and friendly during my absence. with all the people, and about once a year I used to send invitations to the different head men within a
day's journey to attend a pooay, or native theatricals, which the Burmese dearly love. One April it was
if I
mistake not the 21st
left for
my
hut on
54
the Thouk-y-gliat, put up there that night, and the
next morning, accompanied by

I set
my lugalay, or Burmese
village of Shoaydeik, boy, distant about twelve miles, intending to sleep there and make inquiries about a reported man-eater.
out
to visit
the
few necessaries, especially a set of curtains for mosquitoes, for these wretches
coolie also carried a
make
burden to all in Burma unless protected by a muslin curtain which enwraps the whole
life
of one's crib.
When
safely ensconced thus, I could

it,
sleep on anything, but without

carried
sleep
even
on
lad
1
the downiest couch would be impossible.

a
short
double-barrelled
My
rifle,
No.
12
splendid weapon, and my special favourite, smooth bore which threw ball and shot at short range
equally well, and were the
possessed.
first
breechloaders I ever
We had gone probably six or seven miles without seeing anything, but in crossing a well- wooded watercourse a sambur ran up the hillside, exposing
the whole of his broadside at a distance of not more
lucky shot with the left barrel, which was loaded with ball, broke his back. I cut
than
fifty yards.
its
throat,
and
as
I
the head was
a particularly fine
one for Burma
wanted
cut
it
was proceeding
to
to preserve it entire, and off and hang it on a tree

coolie said there
until our return,
when the
was a
small village about two miles off, and the people would be glad of some of the meat, and that we could send
in the head and the rest of the flesh for the use of
the
workmen at
the quarry.
So
I told
him
would wait
there until his return, but he said he was afraid to go 1 They were made in 1863, by Westley Richards.
Tiger Shooting.
alone,
him
and asked me so telling them
to allow the lad to to
accompany
put their
"packs" down on a
knoll overlooking a clear, bright streamlet, and cuttingbranches and grass to cover over the sambur and pro-
body from the vultures, which would otherwise have swept down upon it, I let them start, then leaving the beaten path, about one hundred yards.
tect the
r
I sat
down.
little
made myself
as comfortable as I could,
choosing for
just a
my
below
perch a projecting rock, with another it on which I could rest my feet, my
gun and rifle being close at hand. It was just the r kind of jungle where one might expect to see "yit' and jungle fowl, who are very fond of scratching and
pecking about for ants and larvae near the banks of
mountain streams, especially when they are shaded, as this one was, by a grass which much resembles young bamboos. At my back was a small "bear" bush, 1 against the stem of which I leant my back, and on either side of me the undergrowth was rather heavy,
but down to
my
front I could see very distinctly.
did not think that even a hare could have gone by To pass the time I ate without being observed.
and drank some of Crabbie's ginger-wine, for the day was sultry, not a breath of air moving the atmosphere. Here I had been perched for nearly an hour and was getting drowsy, when I heard the musical laughter and voices of some I thought they probapproaching Burmese girls. ably belonged to the village my people had gone to ? and that the men were following yet they appeared
some hard-boiled
eggs,
This is a thorny, stunted tree and bears a fruit somewhat resembling a small crab apple which are not bad eating if
1
thoroughly
ripe.
56
to
come from
if
a different direction.
did not move,
as
me when
they followed the path they must pass close to I could question them.
Presently four lassies, the eldest not more than seventeen and the others between fifteen and that
age, with trays on their heads and in gala costume, came in view on the opening at the further side of
the river's bank.
It did
not take them a minute to
deposit their burdens, take off their thin jackets, lay " aside their thamins," and throw themselves into the
which nowhere was much above their knees. themselves playing and romping with amused They each other, totally unconscious that there was a man I was sitting down within thirty yards of them.
river,
absorbed in the spectacle, for the

fact
girls
of Europe
you might and not meet with such

Asiatics,
left
travel through the length

to
were pretty, in and breadth
But and
nature,
strangers
perfect figures. to corsets
develop in a manner unknown to people of colder climes, who, though oftener prettier in the face, are sadly deficient in the contour of the
tight-lacing,
The Elders who peeped at Susanna, would body. have gone raving mad could they have seen the I had been inwardly abandon of these four damsels and conceived the idea of chuckling jumping up and
!
overwhelming them with confusion, when a movement

in the grass attracted my attention. As I said before, I did not think that a hare could have passed without
being seen, but though
took
my
eyes off the fascin-
ating spectacle in the stream, and bent them on the attention had spot, I could see nothing, but once instinct as a been called away from the nymphs,
hunter predominated.
So
I seized
my my my rifle,
loaded the
Tiger Shooting.
57
gun with ball so as to be ready for any contingencies, and silently cocked both weapons. For the space of half a minute nothing moved and nothing was visible and the girls continued splashing one another and enjoying their douche amidst fits of laughter. Then there was another slight rustle, yet I could
;
I surmised it might be a snake, see no living thing. or a yit, so thought of replacing the shot cartridges,
when another movement
riveted
my
attention.
forgot the girls, my eyes protruding out of my head in a vain attempt to penetrate the mystery, but although
the whole time was not more than a couple of minutes, it appeared an hour, before I obtained a view of a
brindled
ing towards
the
mass which, crouching with belly touchground, was creeping slowly but surely
its
unconscious victims in the water

is
Why,
thought
I'll
I, it
a tiger,
It is
we have heard of.

spoil its little
and probably the man-eater d stalking the girls, but by G

I
its
game.
could distinctly trace the
murderous brute drawing
hind legs under
its
body
preparatory to springing forward, so I thought it time for me to interfere. I could see the two white marks
which are so conspicuous on the backs of a tiger's ears, and knew therefore that if I fired exactly between
them, that I should hit the back of the head at its junction with the spine a fatal spot if struck, no matter whether the animal be an elephant, a rhino-
any other living thing. Moreover was most advantageous, for my I was shooting downwards. The rifle 1 and I were old comrades. I had killed much game with it and
ceros, a buffalo, or
position for that shot
won many
1
a match, so provided
rifle,
my
nerve did not
It
was a two-groove No. 10
by Joseph Lang.
58
desert
me and
fail
would not
held the weapon straight, the bullet me. I had a splendid support, for
my
me
feet
resting
on a rock a
little
below, enabled
to place my elbows on my knees, so taking a rapid but careful sight, I fired. What happened for the next second or two I cannot tell, for at
the report of the rifle the girls screamed and made for the bank, luckily on the side they had entered
The smoke hung, but there was a roar and something flashed past me, and as the smoke cleared away I saw a tiger in the water bounding
the
river.
who, huddled together, appeared paralysed with fright and unable to move. Surely, thought I, I could not have missed. I never fired
girls,
towards the
more coolly or steadily in brute should be as dead

fact
my
life
and
if I
if
struck the
as a door-nail.
But the
disable
him
kill some of those roar remembered the behind me and girls. the flashing of something over me, and wondered whether there could be a second brute, but I had not much time for cogitation. Act I must, and that speedily. Fortunately I had not altered my position my elbows were still on my knees, and aiming at the
remains, there he is, and within the next minute he'll
don't
Then
would-be destroyer's broad back. I fired. Luckily a gust of wind at that moment blew the smoke aside
and I saw the tiger swim steadily forward.
rear up, give a gasp,

I
and then
the gun, but by of the water, and as he made for the girls I fired and broke a fore leg, but beyond stumbling and giving
dropped the rifle and seized that time the tiger was all but out
one snarling roar, he continued on his way. Again I pressed the trigger when over he rolled, almost within
Tiger Shooting.
59<
touching distance of the women, and as he struggled " " on the ground, one of them 1 threw her thamin over
and dragging her comrades with her, retreated backwards into the river, and made for my side of it,
his head,
as fast as they could. Before the tiger could clear for he had himself of the encumbrance over his head
a foreleg broken
girls
and was otherwise hard
hit
the
I
were
scrambling
for the
up
the
hill-side,
while
again was ready
would-be homicide.
The
tiger without a moment's hesitation plunged back into the river. I aimed at his head, the ball struck
him
just above the nose, but below the brain,
and
But passed through both jaws, breaking them. the enraged beast would not be denied, and he was
dragging his dripping body out of the water, when I hit him in the chest, but the ball did no great
passed downwards and did not penetrate a vital part, as it would have done had I been on the
as
it
harm
same
level. However he now stood still, uttering roar on roar, swaying about so that I hesitated to fire for fear of missing him altogether. The girls in the meantime had rushed past me and I knew they
would be up trees before the feline could overtake them in his crippled state, moreover now I wasbetween him and them. I had therefore time to in and another slip biding my time, as cartridge,
he turned his side to me, for he could not face the
steep ascent of the bank, I struck him in the centre of the shield and knocked him over. As he was not
dead, but
still
low growl,
1
gasping and reloaded the
now and then

rifle
uttering a
and going down put
She married a noted worker in gold in Tongho and was-
christened,
why
know
not,
"
Orangie."
<6o
the brute out of pain. my prize, T found that heard voices some way
the
girls'
Whilst
it
I was standing over was a very large tigress. I
off,
so crossed the river, seized

hill,
clothes, ran up the
and found them
as I
anticipated perched upon many branches. Laughing at them as they attempted to screen their nakedness from me, I told them not to be afraid as the tiger
so
was dead, but as a lot of villagers were not far off So not wishing they had better don their dresses. to add to their confusion, I turned my back on them and walked off, and in a few minutes my -boy and about a dozen men appeared, but from a
direction
girls
from that by which the had come, as the latter belonged to another
quite
different
village.
My
I
was
said they had heard the shots and thought firing at a mark for practice and to pass away
boy
;
the time
but
took them up to the tigress and told

'*
the
what had occurred. Some of the men examined carcase and exclaimed, Why, it is one of the dreaded man-eaters. Look here, she has lost two toes off a hind foot. That was done by a man " she seized about six weeks ago." But where can
" the other be, for they are never far apart ? Why," " said I, I think there must have been another, for I
"
-don't think this is the

I
one
I fired at first,
but
I fear
must have missed him."
"
Be ready
then, Tuckin"
one of the men, " now that the female is dead he will attack us to a certainty." So cocking my rifle, and bidding my boy to remain close behind
(Sir), said
with the gun, I went towards where I thought the first tiger should be. The men all separated and
me
went
into the trees in
minute.
The
girls
had
Tiger Shooting.
descended and clothed themselves, but seeing the
running, and climbing
aloft,
61:
men
they did likewise. My lugalay (boy) was very reluctant to come with me, but I told him if he moved or attempted to loiter, I
would
tie
him up
tiger.
as a bait, for I
have that
was determined to But there was no need for fear, or
further precautions, for after a little search I found a tiger stone dead, lying on its back, hidden by a
and on which he must have been crouching preparatory to springing on the girls. Calling out that the other tiger was also dead, I told the people to come down and drag both to the river bank, but until the boy had assured them that it was really true that both the beasts were defunct, not one of them would move. Indeed the girls were
rock,
the
first
perches and came
my
and
to set this example, for they slipped off their to where I was standing, clasping knees as they knelt down, and calling me their
preserver and goodness knows what, whereas if the truth be told, the whole time the scrimmage lasted
it
was not of
five minutes' duration
had not
given the women a thought, for my hunter's instinct had been so wrapped up in the death of the royal
had gone out of my But of course I was glad that I had been head. instrumental in having saved them from becoming food for such monsters, for the girls were far too fine specimens of the human race to have met with
cats,
that
everything
else
I was then told that these two tigers fate. in company, and that they had killed hunted always over twenty people in two months, a great mortality
such a
for a tract so sparsely populated.
62
escape must have been a narrow one, male was making for the girls, the female must have been stalking me, and I attribute her failure, to my having fired just as she was about to
But
my own
for whilst the
The report doubtless startled her, was enveloped in the smoke, she probably lost sight of me and miscalculating the distance, sprang over instead of on to me, and so the -impetus carried her down hill, where she probably saw the
take her spring.
as I
and
dead body of her mate, when she made for the girls determined on revenge. Her subsequent behaviour proved how utterly reckless she was of her own life provided she could avenge the death of her lord and
There was no excuse for their homicidal in the full propensities, for' both were young and The male measured nine vigour of their strength.
master.
feet
eight
inches,
and the female nine
feet
one
inch.
took us some time to deprive them of their time they were skinned it was too pelts, and by the late for me to go on, so taking six men with me,
It
of carrying the heads and skins, and a goodly supply sambur meat, I returned to my hut on the Thouk-yThe other villagers took the remainder of the ghat.
venison and went home.
The
girls
asked to be
allowed to accompany us, as they were too terrified cabin to them, I to travel alone, so giving up
my
slept in in it to
my
boat,
and the next day took them down

I
the limekilns.
found that one of
my
head quarrymen was the father of the eldest lass, who had so pluckily and at so critical a moment thrown " " her thamin over the tiger's head. All the others had
Tiger Shooting.
relations in
63
in
Tongho, most of them
men
my employ.
They often afterwards brought presents of flowers to my wife and children. They all married very well,
and whenever
met any of them alone I used to make her blush and run away by asking her when
I
she was going to the river to bathe again.
CHAPTER
II.
KHINOCEROS SHOOTING (ASIATIC).

IT
will
is
a current belief, that the skin of a rhinoceros
resist
an ordinary bullet
This is nonsense.
that
it
is
all
but
impervious. a 12 smooth bore, driven
A spherical ball
five
out of
by
drachms of black
powder, easier than

is
if
rightly placed, will kill a rhinoceros far it would a buffalo ; for though the skin
it is
very thick,
easily penetrated.
have seen a
"
man
of ordinary strength drive a shikar knife up to the hilt behind the shoulder of a prostrate rhinoceros. But still it is better to use heavy weapons, with large
"
charges and hardened bullets not on account of the denseness of the cuticle, but because the missile has to
;
through an immense quantity of flesh, well covered with muscle, before it can reach a vital part. Jerdon (the naturalist) recommends steel- tipped bullets and shells. The former are of course very well adapted
pass
for slaying all pachyderms, but the latter are simply I tried many kinds, notably Forsyth's, but useless.
never succeeded in killing a rhinoceros with one, though I fired with them at over thirty. I found the
I
belted bullets from
my
two grooved
rifles
hardened
Shooting
with a mixture of quicksilver, very deadly.
Rhinoceros Shooting.
65
I once put a ball right through a charging near the spine and made its exit entered beast I have shot two rhinoceros through the abdomen. but killing them with one ball each right and left
downwards,
;
it
they were very close and inclined to fight, so gave Most elephants dread these animals very easy shots. will go close to them. few If a ball and much,
be placed in the centre of the shield over the shoulder, rather low down, it penetrates the heart. If behind the shoulder, the lungs are perforated, and the animal
subsides in a few moments.
When thus
shot
it
runs a
little way, then falls down, and in its dying moments makes a peculiar noise which can be heard a long way off, and once heard can never be forgotten. In
hostilities,
Indian rhinoceros do not use the horn, but their tusks, with which they can inflict fearful gashes.
In Burma, the most common rhinoceros is the double horned, but two other species exist, yet are seldom
come across, as they inhabit morasses that may be termed quagmires, over which a loaded elephant cannot travel: In Assam, we have but two kinds of this genus, the larger and the lesser. They are
exceedingly plentiful in the Terai, at the foot of the Bhootaii and Himalaya ranges, and are also found in the swamps along the base of the Cossyah
and G arrow Hills.

favourite " "
Throughout the province there are

as
localities,
well
as
in
many
of
the
churs
(islands) of the
Brahmapootra
river.
The
larger Asiatic rhinoceros has only one horn, seldom eighteen inches long, generally a good deal less.
This horn
hairs,
is
is
said
and
conglomeration of liable to be detached through either

to
be
but a
injury or disease,
when another grows
in its place.
66

skin, as stated, is
The
at
the
setting
on
very thick, with a deep fold of the head, another being
behind
shoulder, and a third in front of the Two large incisors are in each jaw, with thighs. two smaller intermediate ones below, and two still
the
smaller outside the upper incisors, the last are not always present. The general colour is dusky black.
The dimensions of one
I bagged were as follows extreme length of body, twelve and a half feet tail, two feet height, six feet two inches horn, fourteen
:
inches.
These animals delight in swamps and mud " lie up" in holes, and even in running streams, and
during the heat of the day. The lesser is found in the Soonderbunds, near Calcutta,
all
them
rhinoceros
and in
suitable
localities
on the
left
bank of
I never came across it on the Brahmapootra river. the right bank, but doubtless it exists there too, as
these beasts wander about a good deal in search In appearance it somewhat resembles the of food.
all
larger,
but the folds are not so pronounced, and the shields have often tubercles on them, and it is
said it
it
!
is
attracted
by
fire.
The Burmese
is
assert
it
eats
As
lives
a rule
in
the
rhinoceros
very
that
inoffensive.
It
such remote
localities,
none but
a hunter thinks of intruding upon its habitat, but if there be any grain grown within a few miles of
their outlying haunts, it will during a night to feed upon it.
in fairly
march long distances To get these animals open ground, the sportsman must be in their
preserves at daybreak, for the beasts soon retire into impenetrable forests where there are mudholes, and
in
them takes their siestas. It is naturally a timid animal, more anxious to escape than fight, is very
67
easily killed, but if pushed hard or driven into a corner it turns to bay and if it can close, it will
leave
its
marks
for
time and a day.

as
Although the
the native
will
horns
give as
are
contemptible
trophies,
Assamese and Mawarries prize them greatly, and
They by the Chinese. Two officers, Cock (afterwards killed in the Naga campaign) and Bunbury, just before I arrived at Go what ty, made a good bag of these beasts, and by the sale of the horns more than repaid all their expenses. They live in apparent harmony with wild elephants, and I have seen them lying down in the same mudhole with a
are also greatly prized
buffalo
!
much
as Ks.45 a seer (2 Ibs.) for them.
Many
will
castes of Brahmins, Hindoos, and Mawarries not touch flesh of any kind, living on grain and
vegetables alone, but they make an exception in favour of the flesh of the pachyderm I am describing.
dry the tongue for them. This they pulverise, bottle it, and take a pinch or two when ill. The Assamese and bigoted Hindoos follow a
to
They have
often asked
me
about like vultures, and as soon as a rhinoceros is dead they rush upon it, fight for the
sportsman
tit-bits,
and do not leave even a piece of the
skin.
This they cut into long strips, roast it over embers, " and eat it as we do the " crackling of a pig. Considering the habits of the beast, for it deposits its ordure always on the same spot until a considerable mound
formed, and the value put on the flesh and horns by the natives, I am suqDrised there are any left alive.
is
If native shikaries
dug a
pit,
and
sat near one of these
places of deposit, they could easily shoot the animal on its nightly visits. It was in this way that I
F 2
68
bagged the only rhinoceros I ever killed in Burma. But in Assam I killed a great many off elephants and a few on foot. Jerdon says the height of the lesser rhinoceros is only from three to three-and-a-half feet, but I have He was a very killed them at least a foot higher. clever naturalist, but most obstinate, and occasionally Now, I mentioned to him quite wrong as to facts. that the Tucktoo, a Gecko I had heard every day and night of my life in Burma for thirteen years, was in He flatly contradicted me. So existence in Assam. went to Burneyhat, the first I next time the very stage en route to Shillong, where I often heard them
uttering their cries, I got the natives to catch one for me. This they did reluctantly, for they believe them but what will not a wretched Assamto be poisonous
ese do for a rupee or even a few annas to Jerdon,
I
!
so I took
it
who was
staying with
me
in Gowhatty.
him that amongst many bears I had Again killed in the province, one had been the ordinary He would have it that that was Ursus labiatus.
told
impossible, but as the beast had been killed only a short time before, and I had its skin, with the skull
attached so took
it
to him.
Now
the U. labiatus has
only four incisors in the upper jaw, whilst the Ursus How that individual beast found tibetanus has six.
its I
way
to the foot of the Himalayas,
where
shot
it,
don't know, for the ordinary bear of the country is Ursus tibetanus, though why so-called would be a
it is
puzzle to most sportsmen, as

at
all
!
not found in Thibet
General Sir Charles Eeld, G.C.B., of Delhi fame, when shooting at Loqua Ghat with me, killed two
69
rhinoceros in one day with one ball each, and those bullets were twenty to the pound in calibre, yet
the next
day he
lost
peated discharges is One day a man will great luck in shooting at all he fires the next bag day, under equally favourable circumstances, he will not kill a single
! !
at
close
a large rhinoceros after requarters Truly there
thing.
from in and it is also found Sumatra, Chittagong southwards, Java and some of the other large islands. Its skin is as smooth as a buffalo's, but in habits and customs it
rhinoceros's habitat extends
The two-horned
much
A resembles the other species of its family. was secured curious variety of this rhinoceros by I in the and is now, Hood, believe, Captain Zoological
Gardens, Kegent's Park.
Its ears, if I
remember
right,
were somewhat tesselated, and
I believe there is
an-
I waged other variety called the hairy rhinoceros. war against these pachyderms, why, I don't know for I was not fond enough of the ungrateful Assamese but I can to provide them with such choice food
r
answer which I
I,
for
it,
that of the forty- seven or forty- eight
killed,
not an ounce of flesh was thrown away.
however, lost a number of wounded. Whenever I was out shooting in the " dooars," I was followed
" wounded shikaries," who retrieved secretly by beasts, sold the flesh to the natives and appropriated the horns. In this way I was robbed of a magnificent
my
(for Assam), fully eighteen inches long and weighseers or more. I should have known nothing three ing of this larceny but that two men quarrelled about the plunder, and then one went post haste to Bur-
one
pettah and reported that he and his partner had
7o
found a rhinoceros I had shot, with the above horn, which from its length was a rarity. The Commissioner " " sent to have the man apprehended, but he peelers
The late Major Cock, so the Assamese finding eager to buy the mere stumps which most of the rhinoceros he had shot
bolted across the frontier.
sale, several nearly three feet in length, for a trifling sum, bought the whole lot, and sent them to a tea planter to dispose of, but the Assamese would not credit that they were
were adorned with, seeing in African rhinoceros horns for
Calcutta
lot
of
genuine, so would have none of them. What became of them eventually I do not know, but I often saw them lying about in the tea house in Gowhatty.
Sometimes a sportsman slays a cow rhinoceros with a calf. When such happens, by all means send for the nets which every village in Assam possesses
for catching wild animals including the immensely powerful wild buffalo and you will have no great
difficulty
in
securing the
youngster.
In
my
day
Jamrach's agent would give from Ks.1000 to Ks.1200 I had two, and was offered Rs.2000 apiece for them.
for the brace, delivered in Calcutta or Ks.1600, de-
livery in Gowhatty, so I chose the latter offer, but discovered afterwards that if I had stuck out, I
should have got a good deal more.
My first experiences
Loqua Ghat,
in
of rhinoceros in
Assam were
at
1866 or 1867, when shooting with I was unlucky, and failed to bag. But in June, 1867, I determined to visit the dooars, though it was very late in the season, and bets were offered that if I went there, and remained a week or ten days, I should be a dead man, a month
General Sir Charles Eeid.
afterwards from jungle fever.
croakers.
71
I
But
never listen to
I
Having
to
go
to
Burpettah where
had
works in progress, I thought that I might as well try for game. I reached Tara-baree Ghat about 8 A.M. on June 10th. Although I had sent on my elephants
and they had had ample time to found none had arrived. Thinking the get mahouts might have gone to Burpettah, I sent a note
several days before,
there, I
to the Assistant Commissioner, and he very kindly sent over a "palanquin" for me, but as it and the elephants
arrived almost together, I sent it back, and halted for the night where I was. The next day, June llth, I awr oke the people at 4 A.M., and being independent
of Assamese coolies, who seldom put in an appearance before 8 A.M., I got off at 5 o'clock. I sent my baggage
elephants with servants, &c., to Burpettah by the beaten track, whilst I, with two elephants, went
across
country, being anxious to ascertain whether there were tigers about, as reported by the native
starting, the country was quite open, with paddyfields, not in use, and overgrown with short grass.
officials.
At
In these
noticed
broad
trail.
Whether made
tell,
by
buffaloes or other
heavy beasts I could not
but as the animals, whatever they might be, were
going our way, I followed them up. Leaving the open ground, we entered a grassy savanna, in which were a few marshes, surrounded by thick bushes.
The track abruptly turned off to the right, and On directed for a very heavy patch of long grass. the I that we were saw spoor, following examining rhinoceros and not buffaloes. In addition to my old
battery
I
had purchased a breechloading
rifle,
No. 10
72
bore,
1
with very short barrels, a wonderfully handy

r
weapon, and w ith which I killed a lot of game. We had not advanced very far when we came upon the
mound of ordure, with fresh droppings upon it, we knew the animal could not be far off. Our two elephants now began to show decided symptoms of At last, funk, but the mahouts kept them straight.
usual
so
at the edge of
bush,
the "jeel," partially covered by a It distinguished the body of a rhinoceros.

on, but the
was standing broadside
head was turned
in our direction with the ears cocked forward, listening to the noise our mounts made splashing through the
grass
Neither the mahout nor the and water. so I touched the man on the head, saw it, elephant which was always a signal for him to promptly pull " up the hathee." I could distinguish only a form no vital part was visible, but about where I thought On the smoke the shoulder should be, I let fly. clearing aw ay a very large animal rushed into the " jeel" and I fired the left barrel into its shoulder. On receiving this shot, which was well placed, the mammoth pulled up and faced me. I dropped the discharged weapon and had just time to seize one of the two-grooved rifles, when with a shriek the monster
;
r
I gave it the contents of both barrels at charged. This caused it a distance not exceeding ten yards.
to
swerve,
shrieking loudly, and rush away.
All
this time
was irresistible, so my " hathee broke away from the mahout and ran off in a direction the very opposite of that taken by our antagonist, and went fully a
"
1
my elephant, apparently paralysed with fear, had not moved, but the noise the pachyderm made
By
Lyell of Aberdeen.
quarter of a mile before
it
73
could be stopped.
Whilst
running away,
turned round and was under the
impression that I saw a second rhinoceros retiring, and it must have been that one I afterwards followed,
for I could not find it
anywhere.
An
ominous noise
from quite a contrary direction now struck my ear, so I hied back, and found a very large male, stone dead. It had a thick, massive horn, but only eight
inches in length, weighing one and three quarter seers. got men from a village not far off to help us to
We
cut off the head and to put it on the spare elephant, and then rode triumphantly into Burpettah. In the " dooars," I met with great difficulties, owing to the
and the nullahs and rivers being very full, but I hunted there for a week, wounded half a dozen, if not more, rhinoceros, but did not bag a single one. In returning, I got back to
set in,
monsoon having
Gowhatty with the greatest
difficulty,
inundated state of the country. looked upon for having entered there at that season, and my death from jungle fever was avowed, but I
disappointed the prophets, and I did not suffer from the exposure I had undergone in the slightest degree.
owing to the As a madman I was
With Jackson
of the 43rd, I killed thirteen rhinoceros
Once, while following closely up a wounded bull, he came " for me. Lutchmee," my elephant, turned tail, and just managed to keep about a foot ahead of the
assailant's
in fourteen days,
and had some narrow escapes.
snout, whose
upper
lip
I
disclosing his formidable tusks.
was curled up, spun round, took
a snap shot downwards, struck the junction of the head and spine, and the huge monster rolled almost
heels over head.
No
rhinoceros has been so close to
74
an elephant I have been riding on, as this one. If I had had a man behind me, I feel sure my animal would have been cut, for I could not have fired as I " In the did. dooars," Colonel Cookson and I went
out on foot one afternoon to pick up jungle fowl, florikan, black partridge, or in fact anything we could
get.
Our elephants were tired, as they had been worked from dawn to mid-day, during which time we had bagged three rhinoceros, one male and two
females.
couple
of
attendants
carrying
rifles
attended us, for one never knows what
may
be come
At the edge of the forest we across in that region. hit a marsh deer with exceptionally fine horns, and in
following it up, forgot time and distance, and found ourselves in a vast plain dotted here and there with bushes, which almost deserved the names of trees.
Water-fowl we could see flying about, so we knew there must be marshy ground towards which our stag had
retreated.
So we followed and followed. At last we noticed that the sun was declining, so pulled up, but where wr e were, no one knew. We sent a man up a tree, but he could distinguish no land marks that were known to him, but he suddenly pointed to the north and said he saw three or four rhinoceros The grass was only about three to four not far off. feet high, so more favourable for tigers than for
pachyderms, yet we thought we would just go a We got to within one little way and try for a shot.
hundred yards of the game easily enough, then there was little or no cover, excepting a few conical white ant hills. My companion chose one, I another, and we
crawled on hands and feet
paces of the animals,
we got about and then we opened fire.

till
thirty
One
75
I fear and got a ball behind the ear a chance shot and wounded were charged dropped, two others
My
on
straight at us. ant nest was a

its
We
were about
fifteen
yards apart.
I
good
six or eight feet high.
was
fell
summit
in a
moment and gave

They ran
all
each beast a
shot as he passed.
abroad.
One
an awful cropper into a mudhole, sending a deluge of water into the air, and falling almost on the top of a huge male buffalo, who, disturbed by our shots, was scrambling on to his legs and endeavouring to The rhinoceros must have been get out of his bath. mad with rage, for he gave the buffalo a gash across the thigh, and that beast resented it by giving its assailant a right and left with his horns on either
side of the
neck close to the jowl.
right royal
fight then took place. The two were well matched and The thick-skinned animal endeavalmost of a size.
oured to close and

as skilfully as
rip,
but the other used his horns
a prizefighter
would
his
fists,
and
showered blows upon the face, head, and neck of his Wherever he was attacked there were his adversary.
long, powerful horns ready to interpose. hurrying to the scene, when the buffalo
fell
We
made
were
a de-
the mudhole, and before he sperate attack, could recover himself the pachyderm ripped open the
into
whole of his stomach as cleanly as with a knife. The next moment we

ceros
fell
if it
had been done fired and the rhino-
dead upon his foe, all but burying him in the A bullet through the slimy depths of the mudhole. head put the poor bovine out of misery. This
fore I
was a grand exhibition and seldom witnessed, theremark it with a red letter in the calendar of my memory. We reached home very late, and doubt if
76

to
we should have got
camp that
night,
had not our
men
two.
lit fires,
discharged guns and let off a rocket or
On April 20th, 1871, a companion and I took a hurried trip. I had to go to Baghdooar, where I had contractors who had been collecting limestone I had
to take delivery of; to and to ascertain that
measure
amidst
its
cubical contents
the
stone
material
gathered, there was not any useless stuff for burning En route we got on to a rhinoceros purposes.
and on looking down into a shallow nullah there the He looked like a huge brute fast asleep lay pig, the head being on the ground between its fore legs
trail,
!
was only about ten yards off, but could see spot, but my mahout whistled, the sleeping beauty awoke, and I fired at its chest. Up it jumped, and came straight at us, champing its tusks, and making that peculiar cry something between grunting and squealing but before it could do any damage,
I
and feet. no vital
or our elephants turn tail, our battery proved too It possessed only a mere strong and it fell dead.
rudimentary
horn.
was on a huge mucknah,
He was very attached to the 43rd Kegiment N.L old, very deaf and half-blind, and it was probably owing, to these infirmities that he was so staunch but,
oh
!
so slow.
No amount
of prodding
would induce
him to go faster than a steady three-miles-an-hour pace, and that was exasperating when one was in chase
of a stricken beast.
he was immovable.
But again, in the midst of dangers Of the two I think I prefer being
on a beast that has speed, even if it does occasionally run away. We were going along, on another occasion, about
77
a quarter of a mile from the Manass, Matagoorie, our About destination, was in sight. forty] yards ahead of me was a huge rhinoceros, standing behind a very
large tree.
Its
head and neck were
invisible,
but the
shoulder was just exposed, and a shot from one of
two groove rifles knocked it down and it lay I fired three more barrels struggling on the ground. into it, but it got up and very slowly, went away I told only presenting to me its enormous stern. the mahout to urge his beast on, but no punish-
my
ment w ould induce

r
pace by behind, a fifty yards dense forest a hundred yards ahead, and not a prospect of our heading the brute before it got into its
it
to
accelerate
its
one
inch.
There
was,
But just then came J., loitering behind, up on a fast elephant, ran alongside the rhinoceros, and killed it. It was an immense beast with a horn thirteen inches in length. I went on to camp, to superintend
stronghold, where I could not follow
!
who had been
arrangements for a stay of a day or two, but J. w ent off to the right, came upon another rhinoceros,
r
put seven balls into
it,
but
lost
it.
When the mahouts
went
to bring us in the head of the slain, they came across a tiger eating a marsh deer, but as it was almost
dark we could not

that evening.
J's.
attempt to shoot Mr. Stripes The next morning we went to look for
His mahout, new to these jungles, failed to find the tangled brake into which the animal had taken refuge, so after wasting several hours
rhinoceros.
in fruitlessly searching for it, we tracks and followed them up, but
came upon fresh up to nine o'clock
saw
nothing. Shortly afterwards, when passing a strip of long elephant grass, J. caught a sight of a
78

fired.
rhinoceros and
It
began to spin round and
round, and to emit the sounds elephants dread so much, and to our astonishment, from a patch of long
grass close at hand, fully a dozen more rhinoceros joined I never heard such a pandemonium in in chorus
!
life If the inmates of a lunatic asylum and a dozen menageries had been let loose, and intermingled Not the row could not have been more deafening an elephant with us would stir a step forward, the grass
my
was dense and high, and so full of the brutes in a state of frenzy that I did not like to force our mounts After the row ceased, they were willing to forward.
We tried to set
on
it,
enter the cover, but I was afraid of getting them cut. the grass on fire, but the dew was still
and
it
When at breakfast
who had been
would not burn. under a tree
close by, a
mahout,
collecting brushwood, ran up, saying that there was a rhinoceros, as big as an elephant, feedmeal unfinished, ing in the open close by. We left our
and went towards the spot There was a nullah close by, and had we indicated. gone on foot along its bed (which for a wonder was free of jungle), we could have come within a few paces
mounted our
"
koonkies
"
but instead of following this obvious course, thinking the animal would take no notice of When we us, we approached it on our elephants. were about sixty yards off, the foe saw us, turned
of the brute
;
round quickly, rushed down the nullah bank, and though we saluted it with a couple of barrels each, We then returned to our meal. it got clean off.
Finding
afterwards
that
we
could not
fire
the
game's stronghold, we formed
line,
and pushed our
way
in very slowly
and cautiously.
We had not gone
fifty
79
cow rhinoceros, followed by a young one, charged J., whose elephant swerved, but her rider fired two shots and turned his assailant towards me. I also gave her two shots; she then ran about fifty yards and fell dead. Going further in, I found myself
yards
a
in the midst of a whole herd of rhinoceros.
when
There were
five or six
probably a dozen or more in the grass, and
came
me open-mouthed, uttering their diabolical the old mucknah I was on never moved. but noises, I emptied my battery of five double guns and rifles,
at
reloaded, firing first at one always selecting the nearest.
and then at another, I knocked over two,

caught her with It was an exciting
I
but a third did not succumb until

the last barrel behind the ear.
five "
minutes, and but for the steadiness of " hathee he must have come to grief.
my
My
to
mahout, before I had reloaded, now wanted push on after the wounded beasts and I had to
I
threaten him with a broken head before he would
have never seen, before or since, so many rhinoceros collected together, and so pugnacious. The survivors entered a tangled brake and got off till the next day, when the native shikaries picked up three dead and appropriated their flesh and horns, but none of the latter wT ere large. Going back, a threedesist.
parts-grown
rhinoceros
charged
and
chased
J's.
elephant for some way and struck it twice, but failed to inflict any but superficial wounds. J. at last
dropped
much
dead, but he himself was a sufferer, being cut about and bruised from the tossing that he
it
received in the howdah.
The next day we crossed the

it
Gatee Nullah, saw a rhinoceros, but

distance.
kept at a safe
another, as
it
Shortly afterwards
we saw
So
We rushed round and met and killed it at the first discharge the beast was large and had a good horn, but the base had got injured, as under the root there were hundreds of maggots. The stench from it was awful. The next day we first wounded and lost a rhinoAfter that came upon one lying down in a ceros. running stream and had no difficulty in bagging it. I then knocked over another rhinoceros, but lost it. Our servants in moving camp also came across two rhinoceros and a wild mucknah elephant. April 24th. To-day the heat was awful there was not a cloud in the sky. About ten we hit off a trail and my mahout did a very clever bit of tracking. All
entered a tope of trees.
face to face
it
;
;
these rhinoceros feed in circles, so the task of hunting them up to their lair is a tedious one. J. got disI gusted and took refuge under the only tree near. went on, and in about half an hour came upon one
lying
down
in a patch of long grass,
and
as
it
jumped
up two and came to a heavy this ran a cow with a calf.

the
little
I killed it easily.
We
then went on for a mile or

belt of jungle,
and out of
to catch
it
We were anxious
one, but J. unfortunately

killed.
had to be
milk, our
wounded it and As the mother's udder was full
of
two bottles with it, and said it was out of curiosity. It was very very good. like. I should say, to a woman's nourishment in the first watery and sweet. Going towards stage of suckling
filled
men
I tasted it
camp,
saw a rhinoceros lying down at the bottom
and apparently with its feet raised thought it was a dead one, and called one of our wounded rhinoceros, dead
of a nullah, partially covered over with long grass, in the air. I "
out,
"
!
Here
is
No
sooner
81
had
spoken, than
the
apparently defunct animal
jumped
on
to
his
legs
and came
the
at
me
open-
mouthed. Fortunately and thus escaped being cut. rhinoceros was knocked over.
another.
mucknah swerved The next instant the On the 27th we killed
are far easier to slay than buffaloes, but the elephants fear them more, and are far less
They
steady than
when
after other
game.
This
was a
most successful trip. killed thirteen rhinoceros, a tiger, a lot of buffalo, a bear, and many deer, besides wounding a gaur and over a dozen more
rhinoceros,
We
and other game of
all sorts.
caught a
rhino, after slaying its mother, and it required fourteen villagers to bring it into camp. When I saw it the next morning it was mad with rage ; so was
young
securely tethered, yet the
little
vixen tried to get at
everybody who went

days
it
near.
In the course of a few
of its attendant,
about.
quieted down, ate plantains out of the hand and in a week followed the man
THE ASSAMESE.
Before concluding this chapter I may as well say a few words on the inhabitants of this vast province,
which has been in our possession since 1826, but which, a few years ago, was the most backward and
least cared-for of our satrapsies in the East.
The
inhabitants
consist
of
Hindoos,
I
mongrel
are
Bengalis,
and
Cacharies,
who,
fancy,
de-
scendants of the
of the country,
jolly
viz.,
set,
former conquerors and occupiers the Burmese. The latter are a
drunken
somewhat
like
the Burmese in
82
appearance,
caste
till
any But have been they very lately. greatly oppressed by the Hindoo element. The Mozadars and other officials, all Hindoos, impress them as cooliesand bully them in every sparing their own people Hindoos The (Assamese), bad as are the Bengalis, way.
possessed
are but a poor specimen of them.
and
who were not
of
They
are bigoted
in religion, have not a grain of pluck, and would sooner lie and perjure themselves, in a case before the
Their priesthood are courts than speak the truth. debauched, and live most sensual lives, and think
themselves beyond the pale of the law. At Kamykiah one of their temples near Gowhaty, the number of dancing girls attached to the pagoda
was over four hundred. They are professional prostitutes to a hundred priests and yet are supposed to be The Assamese have no shame. The perpetual virgins
!
nor badly made, girls when young are not bad-looking but inferior in that respect to Indians, or to the Burmese. They may have heard of virtue as an
extinct quality but only as such. During one of and I witnessed one every man, woman their feasts
and child was drunk debauchery was openly carried on women and men as stark naked as at the moment they were born, danced and wrestled together, in fact
; ;
behaving generally as wild beasts. As I said before, gangs of Assamese used to follow me about when I
was shooting in the dooars. I gave them every scrap of meat from the rhinoceros I killed, yet if I required a drop of milk I could get none, unless by order of the
omnipotent Mozadars, although such supplies as were brought were paid for by me in person even when I
wanted to move camp, not an Assamese would be
83
obtainable, but the poor Cacharies, often living twenty miles off, would be impressed by force and brought in. They pestered me so by following me about, that
on one occasion, when I had wounded a tiger, they, thinking it was a rhinoceros, rushed in, only to be met with the signal of danger, whoof whoof I don't
! !
should have been sorry had one or two of I stood by, ready reception. for any emergency, but did not tell the people what the wounded beast was until he charged upon them
think
I
them met with a warm
when I killed him with a shot in the chest. I told them the next time they ran in, if it was a tiger, I would not interfere, and if a few of them were killed
and probably eaten, the others would perhaps keep further off and not interfere with my sport The Cacharies are far pluckier than the Assamese, and there was a grand old man at Burpettah who was credited with having killed over one hundred
!
tigers
during
the
annual
inundations.
sacred
temple exists, Hazoo by name, some twenty miles to the south of Gowhaty, on the opposite bank of the river, where Hindoos, Bhuddist and even Mussulmans congregate, the attraction being not
the sanctity of the shrine, but the hordes of loose women who live there in villages by themselves not
a
homes.
being allowed to associate with them in their They are the finest women in the Province, wear a distinct dress, very like that worn by the
in
man
better class of females

are
tall,
Southern India.
They
well proportioned and are common to any native who chooses to pay them for their favours,
but one has never been known to extend her complaisance

to
any European,
official,
or
otherwise
G 2
84
although

I
have known endeavours made to induce

This
is
them
to break their resolution.
so different
from the usage in other parts of India, that it is a In company with an officer of the police, I marvel.
They pitched my camp near one of their villages. allowed us to walk about amongst their houses, and
converse
with them, terminated.
but
here
further
intimacy
CHAPTER
III.
ELEPHANT SHOOTING (ASIATIC ).

1
THIS
sports
may
be
designated
one
of
the
extinct
now
of India, for slaying the noble beasts is forbidden in nearly every portion of our Indian Dependencies, except when an elephant has been
killing people,
manner.
and destroying property in a wholesale Then permission is granted for the
In my younger obnoxious brute to be destroyed. was it a favourite sport, and many a days, however, man who could boast of having killed his dozen
elephants had never shot a tiger. My great ambition as a griffin was to kill one of these leviathans.
After
severe
bout
of
jungle
fever,
Dr.
R.,
who was then
Civil
Surgeon of Rajahmundry,
and
had been formerly our regimental doctor, recommended that I should have a year's leave on sick
certificate.
appeared before a medical board, one member of which disliked R., as they had been carryI
ing on a paper warfare regarding a disease called Another of beri-beri, in which he had been worsted.
members had formerly been an apothecary and got a commission by some backdoor influence, and he was completely under the thumb of the last
the
86
mentioned.
did
leave
I
They owned want to go?"

account
of
allowed to " What Ootacamund, I want to go to Coimbatore." " " asked the senior member of the board. for ? Oh,
on
looked very Oh," said not fever is

I
"
ill.
Where
"
I,
"as sick
The board to shoot elephants," I incautiously replied. sent in its report and a recommendation that I should
have three months'
leave for a voyage and not a
This was done year's absence to the Western Coast. to spite not me, but my medical attendant. R.
protested, and when the board was asked their reason for curtailing the leave recommended by the man
who had nursed me through a dangerous illness, and who knew more of the ins and outs of the case than
they could possibly do after a five minutes' examina" I had stated as my sole reason for tion, replied that
wishing to be invalided, was with a view to shoot elephants, and they thought it advisable in my then
state, that
I
should not
be permitted to do
so."
Well, a year or two afterwards our then Commanderin-Chief asked very kindly if he could assist me in
any way.
still
had elephants on the
brain,
and
begged his Excellency to appoint me to the Sappers and Miners, whose headquarters were permanently at I was duly Mercara, a famous locality for elephants. gazetted, but the whole of the Sappers were on service in Burma, however they were not expected to remain there for more than a year or two, when they would Anxious to see service and to visit return to Coorg.
a
new
country,
hurried over as fast as I could. Cotton,

fair
When with a field force commanded by Colonel

C.B.,
who
so greatly distinguished himself afterwards

it
during the Mutiny,
was found that
had a
Elephant Shooting.
87
knowledge of surveying and engineering, having been educated at a military school, I was transferred very soon to the Public Works Department, so remained in Burma thirteen years, and have never visited Mercara in my life, and Coimbatore only once. So much for
my
I
youthful reminiscences. may here make some remarks on that most useful
animal the elephant. In wilds far away from cultivation, elephants lead a roaming life and do little or no harm. They consume
so
much and waste
so
;
much more,
that no single forest
could support them hence their roving propensities. In Burma during the rains, they come down, from the
sparsely inhabited districts in herds, take up their abode in some adjacent jungle to cultivation, and de-
stroy
immense quantities of paddy and any other grain

find.
harvest they retire to their fastnesses amidst the vast forests or into ranges of mountains where they find plenty of sustenance and
they
After
the
are seldom molested.
female elephant has only one at a birth, and she
An elephant's life and goes two years in gestation. that of a man's are of much the same duration and
both arrive at maturity at the same time. We have had our centenarians and elephants doubtless have had
theirs.
hear tales of their having lived over 150 they say Parr did the same but I believe myyears at 100 an elephant would be as decrepit as a that self
We
same age. McMaster, a well-known sportsman and naturalist, who has now joined the " Those who majority, writes of these noble beasts only think of elephants as they have seen these
of the
:
man
domestic giants working at any of the innumerable
88
tasks on which these almost reasoning slaves
may
be
puzzling a matter it is to distinguish them amongst the dark shadows and irregular outlines that fill up any portion of a
employed, can hardly imagine
how
landscape in their forest haunts.

it
was
for
some
moments, hours, waiting in long grass and reeds within a few feet, not yards, of the head of
a fine elephant, without being able to get a satisfactory shot at him, or even to see more than an indistinct
seemed to
me
dusky outline of form, or a dark shadow
as his
the mighty beast, a aloft, magnificent tusker, suspected that he scented mischief. Having at length made sure that there was something
trunk was raised
when
uncanny near him, he uttered a shrill cry and wheeled round on the very spot on which he stood, without exposing any more vulnerable target than his enormous hind quarters, at which it would have been wicked and wanton cruelty to fire, rushed down the hill, followed by his family (eight or ten unwieldy wives and sturdy children) whose progress, as they crashed through the dense underwood of long grass, caused a noise sufficient to startle any one whose nerves were not tightly braced, and which my pen is certainly too weak to describe." General Hamilton (" Velvet foot ") also " writes On another occasion I was blown at by a wild elephant, who threw her trunk out from behind
*
' :
the jungle lining the narrow path along which we were running to intercept the herd, and blew her nose
man, back right upon me. We had cut this elephant off from its companions, and having a calf In this case to take care of, she had loitered behind. we noticed what I have alluded to, the wonderful and
that he
fell
so suddenly in the chest
and
face of the leading
Elephant Shooting.
extraordinarily quiet
89
manner
animals
move through
the forest
in which these gigantic when trying to avoid
observation or danger."
of an elephant is almost exactly double the circumference of the fore-foot as it rests upon the
Asiatic elephants are doubtless less than their African confreres, but there is in the Calcutta
The height
ground
museum
have
the skeleton of an Indian elephant a little over eleven feet in height, which therefore must
been
very
tale
little
short of
I killed
twelve feet
high
when
in the flesh.
In 1855
my
first
but the
has been told elsewhere,
elephant will not
therefore repeat it here. About a year afterwards, I had to go to Mendoon on the Ma'ee, a lovely
stream,
some
forty
miles
west
or
south-west
of
Thayet Myo, our then frontier station. Here I had various sport, but an old Burman, who had accompanied Ashe of the Artillery into the Arrakan range, when he shot three elephants, asked if I'd like to see some, and if so, he could show me a solitary bull. "Won't a weasel suck a rabbit?" As a " matter of course I would. But how far have we " to go ? I asked, "for I have to be back in a day or
two."
is
"
If
a teh
we
" leave to-day," said the Burman, there can sleep in to-night, and get to the jungle
we
about twelve next day." That meant, I knew, a good twenty miles or more, but I was young and eager.
put a few things together, which a couple of men carried. My Madras boy and his son accompanied and about 10 A.M. we started. "When clear me, of the ancient town of Mendoon, then in ruins, we followed by-paths for an hour, then crossed a stream, which lower down fell into the Ma'ee, and entered a
I
9O
teak forest.
There was not much undergrowth, and

couple of hours or more the last rains. Then an
we followed a track for a made by elephants during
ascent was commenced, and I thought it time to refresh the inner man. Calling a halt I made an al fresco meal, giving some food to the Burmese, who,
with or after a European of the viands he has prepared for himself. After an
caste, will eat
having no
hour's rest
we resumed our journey
the
ascent
became
worse and and in as good worse, condition as I was, I was forced to rest frequently. The track, made by wild animals, wound round
and
was as well really constructed as if laid out by an engineer, but the Burman guide would take short cuts, which proved very laborious and fatiguing, as they were strewn
hills,
round
and
with debris of
all sorts.
About
5 P.M.
we were,
should say, at an elevation of 1,000 feet. Looking back, to the south-east the Ma'ee was seen wending its
to the course and even at a distance looked lovely east the mighty Irrawaddi appeared a mere thread to
;
;
the north and west rose the Arrakan mountains, which reach an elevation of some 6,000 feet, and are
densely wooded for at least 3,000 to 4,000 feet of their altitude, and we could see mist rising, which
indicated that there were valleys between us and the
main range.
After half- an -hour's
rest,
we resumed our
journey,,
ascending perhaps another 200 to 300 feet began to descend, and soon came to some
and
after
toivnyali
clearances
these, just at dark,
made by Karens. In one of we came to a " teh ", a raised

feet
off
platform
fully
twenty
the
ground, with
Elephant Shooting.
space sufficient for one or two human beings to I would not be at the trouble to mount as on.
91
sit
my
servant could not cook up there, and it would cause a great deal of bother to hand up the eatables, &c.
However,
was told that there were man-eaters
about, so I ordered the people to collect brushwood,
and soon had fires lighted all round. My dinner I enjoyed, washed down with a bottle of that divine
nectar, Bass's pale ale.
Then, commending myself to
the powers above, lay down and slept like a top. There was no disturbance during the night, and we
This morning it was a case of ascending and descending. Being the intermountains the real and the between mediary stage
were up and away at dawn.
which are invariably separated by what in India " Teelahs," and horrible ground it is to travel over. We took a snack at about 10A.M., but did
hills,
are
called
not
reach our destination

halted at the top
till
close
upon
P.M.,
when we
of a slope
fully thirty
miles from
Mendoon we must have come.
rose abruptly the steep sides of ains, and close alongside a rivulet rushed in a small
Above us the Arrakan mount-
the water was deliciously cool torrent to the plains and as clear as if it had been filtered. I am very fond
;
of water for bathing and washing purposes, or for cooling stimulants in, but as a beverage, I prefer some-
thing stronger. Here our few followers soon cut down branches and rigged up huts. I don't care to sleep on
the ground
if I
can avoid
it,
so
had a raised platform
made,
an
as
bamboos were
plentiful.
On
this a
"
razai,"
;
or a quilt stuffed or
air pillow
padded with cotton, was placed
gave support to the head, and a light native counterpane formed a covering, for the night
92
air
was
chilly,
feet
above sea
we being then fully 1,300 to 1,500 level. Of course here there were no
mosquitoes or sand-flies. We were all very quiet, for the shikarie told us elephants and gaur and even
wandered about, and often on which we were encamped. passed spot such fires as were Only requisite to cook our meals were lighted, and all were put out at 8 P.M., and
(wild
cattle),
"tsine"
the
the night passed without disturbance. By 5 A.M. we were up and away. We neither ascended nor
descended, but went along the edge of the plateau towards some salt licks, which the shikarie said
were favourite places for elephants, gaur, deer, &c. Leaving the plain we entered into a deep forest, the principal trees being buttress trees, from which the people extract a kind of oil or varnish. These
monarchs are immense in height and frequently 150 feet without a branch
often
five
girth, not un;
the roots form
the trunk, and ridges gradually sloping off, disappear fully ten or twelve feet into the ground. Commonly on the lateral branches are
feet high
near
huge pendent beehives, many of them

feet long
six or
seven
by
three
feet deep.
These the bears are

of the bees, or
attracted to either
by the humming
scent of the honey, as they rob them. The Burmese and Karens imitate these sagacious beasts in a way,
bamboo stakes, drive one in, drive two more in, get on to one, hold on that, step on to the other, and so on to the top. Besides these
as they collect a lot of
buttress trees, there are clumps of bamboos scattered about, some of the female plant, which is frequently
three feet in circumference,
all
but hollow, and grows

drooping, and the
upright to
fifty or sixty feet before
Elephant Shooting.
sturdy male bamboos, so
93
much
prized as shafts for hog-
Other bushes and creepers were also plentifully sprinkled about, and I soon realised that if I wanted to kill an elephant, my work was cut out for
hunting spears.
Only the shikarie and a coolie with some food were my companions. I had bought a two-grooved No. 10 double rifle, two years before, from Colonel Grant Allan, 1 and I was so pleased with it that I had Thus I had two as perfect its counterpart made. weapons for those days, as one could wish to be armed
me.
small cannon, single barrel, No. 4 gauge, which I owned, I never had the pluck to fire, so afterwith.
wards sold
Mysore rifle, which

truth
;
Lindsay, for Commission. There

it
to
many
years in the
I
it
but
is a legend of this here give, without vouching for its was told me by a man who would have
tell a wilful untruth. He and came a herd of in I think upon Lindsay elephants the Bassein district. The elephants were alarmed, and
sooner died than
in their haste
they rushed towards the sportsmen

the
opposite
direction
;
instead
of
in
general
stampede took place, one or two distant shots were made, when the shikarie who was carrying the small cannon, finding three or four elephants overtaking
him, fired the weapon haphazard, was knocked over by the recoil, got up, leaving the gun to its fate, and ran for his life. Later on both sportsmen went
back to recover the weapon, found it, and two elephants lying dead, which the man swore could only have been killed by his solitary shot
!
Made by the late Joseph Lang for Major Gill of Ellora fame in 1839. I and others used it up to 1878 and it was then
1
as serviceable as a
new weapon.
94
This
fact
was long a standing joke, whether strictly a no one can say but that two elephants lay dead
; ;
was undoubtedly true. The shikarie carried one rifle, I the other the coolie kept at a distance. About seven we came upon the fresh spoor of two elephants they had fed along quietly, and we had no difficulty in following them.
;
Those who wish to slay these leviathans in their forest homes, need be sound of wind and limb, for it is not child's play following them, for quietly
as they feed along they are ever on the move and get over the ground far faster than one would
credit.
On
this
occasion
we
followed and followed
up to 3 P.M. with only half About four we saw the game, a pulling down and browsing on the The noise the female bamboos.
ened the
an
hour's
rest.
few yards apart,

tender shoots of
sound of our buttress tree which afforded good shelter and was
they made deadI reached a footsteps.
The animals differed greatly. was an old male with very the other was in his prime, very handtusks large some to look at, in fact it was almost too bad to slay What a beauty he would have been for ridhim. But there were no means of catching purposes the and thirst for slaughter was strong upon ing him, me. Bidding the shikarie stand close and hand
within easy shot. The nearer to me
;
!
the spare rifle quickly, I stepped aside, waited until the old one afforded a good temple shot, and then
fired.
Down
he
fell.
and gave me a front

I
as
never thought of dead as Julius Caesar, but he picked himself
The other one turned round I dropped him dead. the first, which I deemed to be
shot.
Elephant Shooting.
95
up and
in a
moment was
and
fired
the spare
rifle
but on me. I seized both barrels, then threw

all
myself under the lee of a buttress tree, and the monster in his headlong charge all but stepped upon He ran only a few yards, then right-about me.
faced,
and made for me again. I was powerless, but had fortunately crawled from the buttress under which I had taken refuge, to one on the other side of the tree, for the brute was hunting for me by scent
!
Hurriedly
clung
poured the powder

thus
bullets fitted easily,

slightly,
down my barrels the but being sewn up in thin cloth,

;
them home.
the least noise
me delaying The beast was too close
in
getting
half,
by
and
would bring him on me. In peering round I saw that of my last two shots, one had knocked out an eye and the other had paralysed to a certain extent the trunk, and that the blood was pouring from the wound into the sound optic. So I got up and behind another retreated tree some noiselessly, twenty yards off, where the Burmaii joined me. Having loaded both rifles, whilst the old fellow was feeling about for me, I went forward and gave him a right and left again in the temple, but as I fired, the beast threw up his head, and I missed the vital
place.
a huge buttress tree caught his fore feet, and went a fearful cropper I seized other
!
This salute caused him to rush towards us, down he
my
I
gave him the two

rise,
barrels as he
life.
rifle and was attempting to
but he bore a charmed

I
again retreated,
but as soon as
had loaded,
followed
him
up.
Badly
wounded as he was, he kept us at a trot, and when we got closer than he liked, he spun round and came for us. I fired eleven more shots, but it was useless
;
96
it
was getting too dark for accurate shooting, and the tossed his head about in such a manner, that to hit the brain, which is but small, was no When all but night, we had to desist for easy task. Where the coolie had gone to in the the time. excitement of the combat we did not know, nor It was too late could we find him. to go to have would a besides it entailed camp long march there, and a long trudge back next day, for I was We therefore determined to have the tusker. The Burman made returned to the one I had killed. a meal off some portion of its trunk but I could not
brute
; ;
stomach such food, so, after seeing that sufficient brushwood had been collected to last through the night, I lighted a couple of fires, used the foot of the defunct animal as a pillow, and was soon fast asleep.
the trail at daylight, but the stricken brute had wandered off fully ten miles still we were not to
;
We took up
During our pursuit, I made a lucky shot at a pea fowl, then "kabobed" its flesh over some We did not overtake embers, and made a fair meal. the veteran all that day, so slept out that night, and
be denied.
on the following day resumed our pursuit. Where the poor brute had lain down we came upon, and noted how much shorter was its stride evidence of increasing weakness so with renewed hope we pressed on. The country was pretty open forest, with here and We had just there small patches of elephant grass.
passed one of these, when there was a fiendish screech and a bloody form was all but over us. I jumped aside, and as the impetus carried our assailant forward, I fired both barrels into his carcase, close to the
shoulder.
This reduced him to a walk, and he went
Elephant Shooting.
on with
liis
97
trunk pendent and limp with a very I seized the other rifle, ran woe-begone aspect. forward, and as he flopped an ear I gave a shot
behind
it,
!
and with a stagger he

fearful.
fell
!
forward.
Poor
Thank God, at last dead His agony must One eye was shot out, one closed by coagulated blood, and he had received upwards
old beast
have been
of
twenty
bullets,
!
uttered a
inches
groan and four
gallant brute never His tusks were four feet eight feet six inches respectively, but
yet
the
thick and straight. Measuring the game two inches high. feet was ten test, he
by the
foot
But now where were we

tall
tree,
if
took a good look
all
The Burman climbed a round, and descended,

to
saying
dark.
killed,
we walked quickly we should get

as I
camp by
sambur luckily crossed our path, which I
was deadbeat and very hungry I preferred spending another night in the jungle and having a square meal, to tramping further on an empty stomach. The Burman soon broiled some liver, which we eat, but had to partake of Adam's none other being procurable then made a temale porary shelter overhead, slept, and cooked again in About mid-day we reached camp. the morning. The coolie had returned and reported that he had
and
;
seen
me
trampled to death by the elephant, so
my
boy had gone to where the encounter had taken He saw sufficient to place to pick up the pieces. were we not that him dead, but in chase persuade of the elephant, so he returned to camp and wisely
stuck to
it,
as he felt sure
I
we should return
all
there.
After a day's rest

position had
set in,
took
hands, and as decomdifficulty in
we had no
drawing
98
the tusks, and eventually got back to Mendoon four days later than I had intended, but by going down the Ma'ee in a Burmese boat, I eventually got back
was due. On another occasion I was in the Yomahs. During the night there was a great commotion. I jumped out of bed, seized my rifle and rushed The camp was astir, the natives running out. towards where our elephants were picketed. I found that a wild elephant had got amongst our tame ones, and had maltreated -one of the females, but had been I ordered fires to be lit, and told the driven off. mahouts to be alert and call me if he returned. I went back to my tent, for the air was chilly and the
to
after I
Prome only a day
mosquitoes troublesome. All through the night there were disturbances, and I was aroused several times,
but could not get a shot. Now if a male elephant is must, he very often seriously injures the females that refuse his caresses. My beasts were far too
As valuable to be permitted to be knocked about. " a informed me that the intruder, huge my "jemadar
mucknah, was not
far off, directly I
had finished
;
my
chota hazarie, I proposed we should catch him but as the head man, an old elephant trapper, said the ground was not favourable and the beast was in the
worst stage of must, We had not far to go.

ing and
eating wild
determined he should
die.
stood in a hollow, pulpI could see the plantains.
He
rheum oozing down
his face
from the gland, which
exudes an offensive smelling oily substance when the male elephant has sexual desires. The wind then was
not favourable and very faint, although it generally Followed by blows half a gale during the night.
Elephant Shooting.
one
99
man
carrying an extra
rifle, I
made
a detour,
got on to a ledge of rocks above the amorous He had brute and well within twenty yards. heard us, although he pretended to be unconscious
of our presence, for every now and then a furtive Yet he did not glance was cast in our direction.
attempt to
get
done, for there
away, as he could easily have was a narrow and densely-wooded
Vicious he looked. I could not gorge close by him. get nearer without leaving my coign of vantage, although the distance was longer than I cared for.
But
my
rifles
were
accurate
bullets,
charges and hardened
ten
loaded with heavy to the pound.
Now
ordinary aiming alone will not do in elephant shooting ; you must get the requisite angle ; without
it, it is
almost useless to
fire.
Every now and then
could see the point at the back of the ear which is generally fatal if hit but he flopped his ears back;
wards and forwards, raised his trunk, and looked as Then he would recommence to solid as a rock.
smash the
when they became pulp

capacious throat.
stalks of the plantains across his foot, and to thrust them down his
He showed
his
contempt
for us
I raised the rifle, waited for in every way he could. the ears to be moved forward, and as soon as the back
was
visible, fired.
had put
in too
much powder;
the recoil was very unpleasant, and what was worse, I failed to hit the mark I had aimed at, and only inflicted
a painful wound.
He spun
round, tore up
the ground with huge trunk about like the arms of a windmill, and came at me like a demon. To fire down at the front head shot
his fore feet, tossed his
was
useless,
nor could he well get at me, for the ledge H 2
ioo
I
was standing on was somewhat hollowed out underneath and fully twelve feet in perpendicular height If he turned to either side to get at off the ground.
our flanks he would expose the shoulder shot or the temple one, but the mad brute came straight on. He
looked like a fiend.
Yet there
stood,
puny
creature compared to him, perfectly at my ease, for I knew he could not touch me and I could punish
him
gave him the left barrel when he was about twelve paces off, but it did not stop him. I
terribly.
I
coolly proceeded to load, putting in less powder this time, taking care to stand back out of reach of
my
He
up
antagonist's proboscis. and could find no way

tore
When
up
it,
he got to the ledge
his rage
was awful.
now
at the solid rock, he shrieked, he tossed
the ground, and then, seizing a stout sapling, he half drew himself up and might almost have succeeded had
not his weight torn it from its frail hold in the ground, and over he and the tree went together I could not
!
see
him
for
some time
ready for him. could not reach
seeking some not be allowed, so

shoulder
to, as
;
in front rushed along parallel, That could declivity less inaccessible.

I
He me
Again I was picked himself up and finding he

for the dust.
planted two bullets behind the but those were shots I was not accustomed
they are seldom used in India. I could not have hit my foe in a vital spot, for he continued his career. Although the elephant could not ascend the ledge, it
was easy for me to let myself down, and in a few When he found minutes we had changed places. he was baffled again, he became madder than ever, and I do believe he would have thrown himself over
the rock to get at me,
when
fired
my
other
rifle,
Treating Elephants.
101
Only five or six paces heavily loaded, into his chest. The blood us. poured from his trunk, the separated
was taken out of him, and he slowly retreated. Carefully reloading I crept round and got on to his track he had not gone far. Eesting against a huge round he I went to another from teak tree stood. which I could obtain the temple shot and dropped
fight
;
him dead.
related or given instances of slaying these monsters, I will now make a few remarks as to their
Having
for every one interested in Indian sport, especially in the vast grassy plains of Burma and Assam, is dependent on the services of these
care
and welfare,
animals for his success.
Nothing can be done without
you are purchasing an elephant for sporting purposes, choose one that has been a koonkie, that is, one which has been employed in running down
them.
If
other elephants. You can distinguish such at once by the large scar on the top of the rump near the tail,
which,
when the animal was hunted, had been

and kept open
for
inflicted
means of accelerating its two men, who mount an speed elephant on a chase, sits behind and belabours this sore with an iron ball, which he swings about by an attached rope. These koonkies are more to be trusted
on
it
as a
"
one
"
of the
than other animals of their kind
they are used to
seeing every kind of beast, move more smoothly, and are less likely to be demoralised than those that have
never been used in the chase.

brute.
Don't choose a leggy female koonkie with a straight back and
immense
There
girth, even if she be but seven and a half to eight feet high, is better than a male a foot higher.
is
as
much
rascality in selling an elephant in
iO2

is
in selling a horse in England. vicious elephant is drugged, and when perfectly docile through the effects of bhang, is parted with. Ginger
India as there
and even arrack is given to make a sleepy, inert beast look spry. Every trick known to a clever mahout i& resorted to. A brute that never carries flesh when
is fed up with and on which he chapatties sugar-cane, speedily gets fat, but gets back to his normal condition when
worked, and can stand no fatigue
employed or worked. Elephants are seldom vicious. I have only known one or two. Those born of tame
mothers are oftener so than others. They lose their dread of man, fear all wild beasts, as they are not accustomed to seeing them, and so are generally
useless for sport. Elephants are " " called zurbad
subject
is
to
many
It
diseases
one
dropsical
attack.
commences with swellings under the neck and extends down

incurable.
along the belly.

disease
is
An
animal
may
get over the
first
If so, get rid of it at any sacrifice, for the sure to return and is always fatal in the long
run.
an elephant commences to eat earth, stop In a few days he will pass quantities of bots, and then be quite well again. They are also very subject to epidemics if such break out,
If
his grain rations.
;
they die like rotten sheep. The only resource then is to scatter them as far apart as possible arid let them forage for themselves in bheels for choice, as
;
they there find a succulent grass, growing in water, which is very nutritive and acts as an alterative.
Most mahouts can

elephant
is
treat
common
much.
ailments that an
heir to, so it
is
not wise to interfere with
them and
their charges too
Elephants utter
Treatment of Elephants.
103
whistpeculiar sounds to denote various meanings. ling noise produced by the trunk indicates satisfaction ;
when they trumpet

;
pr-rut,. sign of rage a noise made by the mouth like pr-rut," is a sign of alarm, so is the striking of the trunk on the ground, accompanied by a pitiful cry ; " " whilst a noise like urmp, urmp denotes impatience
or utter a hoarse scream, "
it is
or dissatisfaction.
and
fro
Elephants are always swaying to the ears and tail are on the move brushing
off the flies,
and the trunk
is
in incessant use, the legs
are constantly rubbing one against the other, but if the animal is suspicious it becomes as rigid as if cut
out of rock, with its trunk well raised and ears cocked Thick as is the skin of an elephant, no forward.
flies and even mosquitoes. has been washed, skin made as glossy Thus directly as glass, anointed and decorated, no sooner is it
it
animal suffers more from
tethered than
dirt over itself
miller.
it
and
proceeds to cast heaps of dust and in a few minutes is as dusty as a
Elephants snore a good deal when asleep. I have often seen them resting the head on a foot, using
in lieu of a pillow. many of their ways.
it
;
They are very human-like in They use a piece of wood as a

;
toothpick they will plug a wound with clay they scratch themselves with the tip of their trunk, and if they can't reach the part irritated they take up a
small branch and use
it
as a fan.
Saunderson derides the story of an elephant lifting the wheel of a heavy gun with its trunk, and says it
is
impossible, yet a brother officer of mine was present and saw it done. As a rule they will not face fire,
but there are exceptions, for one elephant belonging

to the battery in
Deebrooghur would
assist in
putting
IO4
a
and she would perform what I have never known any other elephant do, and that was, after a buffalo's throat had been cut, except the vertebrae, when ordered to do so, she would place a ponderous foot on the neck, twist her trunk round the horns, wrench the head off, and hand it up to the mahout. I had one elephant that did not care two pins for a tiger or buffalo, but if she saw a pony or horse cantering towards her, she would almost go into a fit with fear and run for her life.
fire out,
The
See your elephants fed in front of you every day. rice should be wrapped up in balls of plantain
stems, which are always procurable, because after a tree has borne fruit once, it is of no further use, and the The people do not object to its being cut down.
usual allowance for a shooting elephant is a seer for every foot of its height. Whilst you are out shooting,
the second attendant of the elephant should cut down or otherwise collect its green food, which either some of
the spare animals can bring in, or the shooting elephants themselves after the howdah has been removed.
Before starting for a day's shooting, see that your
howdah
if it is tightly and straightly put on crooked in the slightest degree have it taken off and
is
;
re-adjusted, for in camp where
done properly you have men to assist, than to have in to do it the jungle where you have none and it is impossible to shoot out of an improperly placed howdah
it
is
better to have
it
with any degree of comfort or any certainty. A howdah should be as light as possible consistent with strength.
Double howdahs, that

abominations, and
is
for holding
two men
one
in front and an attendant behind
now
my opinion that breechloaders are uniare in
Elephant Fittings.
105
The only use of an versally used, not required. attendant was to load your guns that you can do for
;
yourself now.
is
single ones, at the heels of
Double howdahs are far heavier than and when a tiger, buffalo, or rhinoceros
your animal, how are you to turn over its back, if you have a lumbering
?
round and fire man behind you
Many
a time have I saved
my
and by fire instantaneously, which I could not have done had I had a man behind me. The howdah should rest on
elephant being cut
either side of the pad, the cross portion being hollowed out to prevent its pressing on the spine and so
being able to turn round
causing a sore back. The whole length of the two sides should rest, and the weight be distributed equally on
either
side
of
the
spine
longitudinally,
the
bars
resting on the pad, which should be made to fit each elephant, that is, each elephant must have a pad made expressly for it. As a coat will not fit any man,
neither will a pad
upon.
It should
fit every beast that it is placed be stuffed with pith, which can be
collected in almost every bheel; under the pad there should be a well -padded guddelah, and another
The over the pad to prevent the howdah slipping. howdah is fastened on with ropes having belly,
neck,
and
and kept
the
do,
leather, well greased soft to prevent chafing. Some, to avoid

tail
bands of stout
extra weight, stand on the pad, but if you you feel the motion of the animal far more
than
you
is
will
if
you
stand
which
clear of the pad.
wooden floor Every howdah has two

on
a
longitudinal iron sloping bars, which connect the front with the back as a means of strengthening the whole. If to them you sew strips of stout waterproof cloth,
io6
Incidents of Foreign F*ield Sport.
case of rain,
which you can at pleasure throw over your guns, in you will the better preserve your wea-
a few bullets sewn on the lower portion, they prevent the flaps being blown off the guns. The front of the howdah should not be too high and
pons.
as
Have
should be
use
it.
made for the individual who howdah suitable for a man of

five feet eight inches,
is
going to
six feet
two
inches would be very inconvenient and uncomfortable for a
man
and
vice versa.
front bar.
standing up, the elbows should just clear the For comfort and good shooting a great deal depends on the height of the seat from the floor
of the
When
should be sufficiently high to fit inside the bend of the knee, neither more nor less.
;
howdah
it
If less, if the elephant jolts forward
suddenly, you
are apt to go backwards out of the howdah, and if of higher, the edge of the seat rubs against the back the thighs and causes a sore, and it is apt to throw
one forward, whereas if the edge of the seat catches you fairly in the bend of the knee, your body sways
to
is
and
fro
and you
feel as if
not otherwise the
case.
;
you had a grip, which Four guns for dangerous
on either side of the seat, shooting are requisite size of the stocks for two exact the of racks are placed guns, and the closer everything fits, and the less
rattling
sport.
you have, the better are your chances of The front bar on which the barrels rest should
it,
be of wood, with notches cut into

to
fit
lined with felt
the gun-barrels, or the browning will soon be worn away. In front, attached to the wooden bar,
this should be a long box for holding cartridges should also be lined with felt. Have all your rifles or
;
guns of the same bore, and
for
which the same sized
Elephant Fittings.
;
107
in a scrimmage you have not time cartridges will do to pick and choose the shells, but have to take what
you can lay hands upon. Under the seat on which you sit you can have a compartment in which to carry food, etc., but the
less
you yourself take the
better.
Have no
rattling.
In the jungles of Assam and Burma the denizens are used to wild elephants, and care very little for
crashing their way through the dense long grass, but if in addition they hear the rattling of plates or bottles they smell
the a rat and are off long before you can get within shot. Take a light zephyr waterproof coat with you to
noise those animals
make when
put on
long
a storm comes up. If you have to travel distances over plains where there is little or
if
no game, and a
native
sun overhead, buy a common umbrella such as is used on occasions of

fierce
;
they have long handles to enable them to be held over the heads of the swells by their re-
ceremony
tainers.
Pierce two holes in each side of your seat, and corresponding holes in the floor of the howdah
;
into
these
insert
the
ample shade.
When you
handle and you will have wish to resume shooting,
you have only

invert
it,
to take the umbrella
down, fold
it
up,
placing
the top
bottom of the front of stick out behind and it will not be in the way in the least. Never tether your elephants for more than a or two in the same place. day Standing on their own
;
downwards against the your howdah the handle will
excreta softens or rots the sole of the foot, which, though spongy, ought at the same time to be as hard
as ivory.
only for
Avoid giving an elephant a sore back, not your own sake, because you cannot then use
io8
him, but because once an elephant has had his back cut open to let out the pus, he will never be as staunch
after as before.
Mahouts
are the best abused servants in India, not
altogether undeservedly, but I think due allowance should be made for all they go through in a day's
work.
They
allow an
are very apt, unless well looked after, to elephant to forage for himself, rather than be
at the trouble of bringing to this must be insisted upon.
camp
his
charah ; but
If let loose, the poor
beast will go in search of food.

difference
He
does not
know
the
between meum and tuum ; he will either get no food or wander miles away, or if there be a village anywhere near, he will destroy property for which you
have to pay fourfold mahout you cannot trust.
will
its value.
Do
not keep a
think more can be done
by
judicious kindness than by bullying, nagging, or harsh treatment. Treat natives as you would children,
with a judicious mixture of kindness and firmness, but if a man presumes or attempts to be impertinent,
make an example
different
varieties
of of
him on the
elephants.
spot.
There are
experienced
An
mahout will tell you by merely looking at an animal from what country he comes. Of all I have had or seen, I think the Shan tuskers were the handsomest. The Burmese are somewhat smaller, many rather weedy, and very many of them The Assamese elephants are mucknahs, or tuskless. " are large and handsome, and as shikaries," second to
none.
It is well
known
them
are almost all of
that the Cingalese elephants tuskless, a tusker being a prize

It is said that
indeed in that country.
they and the elephants of Sumatra are similar, and have a rib less
Varieties of Elephants.
109
than the other varieties, but how true that
may
be
The mucknahs, called by the Burmese cannot say. " hine," have the head longer and narrower, the temple
very
much
depressed, the trunk longer
derous, possessing
the beast for being
near relative
is
immense strength, as minus the formidable tusks of its " " the goondas (tuskers). The mucknah
and very ponif to compensate
not, however, altogether tuskless, as it has short ones somewhat like those of a walrus, growing down;
wards these are never more than eighteen inches long, but by jobbing down, they can inflict very nasty wounds with them. Its eyes are small and sleepylooking with a generally morose appearance, and even
quite young it has an old look, as we often notice in children the progeny of an old man. In size they
when
and more massive than the tuskers. The largest elephants I have seen, whether wild or tame, have been mucknahs. The two varieties generally herd apart, but no doubt
are often taller
a Lothario of the one
may
seduce the affections of a
female of the other variety, and this causes, I believe, the production of many elephants of huge size to have
but very moderate tusks. If nature has not given intellect to these animals, it has given them an instinct next thing to it.
One has only to hunt them in their wilds to learn how wonderfully Providence has taught them to
choose the most favourable ground, whether for feeding or encamping, and to resort to jungles where their ponderous bodies so resemble rocks or dark foliage
to distinguish them from surrounding objects, while their feet are so constructed that
that
it is difficult
they can not only tramp over any ground, be
it
TO

soft,
hard or
thorny or smooth, without causing a
sound. They prefer forests by day, and open ground at night. Huge as are these beasts, none are easier to kill, if the hunter knows the right spot to aim at and
the right angle to
fire.
There are
five
vulnerable
First, the bump between the should fired at from the front, low which be eyes, down and pointing upwards the best way, of
places in an elephant.
getting this shot is to kneel when firing. Secondly, the temple shot, exactly in the centre between the corner of the eye and top of ear. This shot should be
from either the right or left half face then from Of all the front, slightly upwards and backwards. the shots this is the easiest and most fatal and safest
fired
;
for the hunter, because if the shot does not prove fatal and the beast rushes forward, as it is apt to do when
wounded, the hunter will be out of the line of flight and run less risk of being trampled upon, than when
a Thirdly, just behind the ear shot one seldom gets. Fourthly, from a height downward in a forward direction, hitting the junction of the
firing the front shot.
Fifthly, behind the shoulder this is spine and head. seldom taken by the European shikaries in India, but natives often avail themselves of it, and I have seen
;
several Goliaths thus slain, notably by a son of the Zemindar of Luckeepore. In Africa it is the favourite
the African variety cannot be head the shots, but Bailey, who was with me by on the Congo, killed over twenty elephants and had six down at one time, all with the front and side head
shot, as it is believed
killed
shots.
I
was
cruel
enough
once
I
to
try
and
kill
elephants off elephants.
got amongst a herd of
Shooting Elephants off Elephants.
1 1 1
I wounded five or six to fully three hundred or more. death, as we recovered their bodies afterwards, but I
only bagged one at the time and that was a three A female had been charging me parts grown male. over and over again, my elephants were demoralized
and cries of the wild ones, who wounded to death and unable to fight or run away, still huddled together, and groaned and trumpeted most awfully. On her last charge as I fired a male ran in between us and received the ball in the hip joint and fell partially paralysed, yet the plucky brute came at
from the
shrieks
me on
head
his knees,
and when quite
close,
he
I
lifted
up
his
to take a look at me.
I seized
the favourable
moment and put
a ball into his brain.
never fired
at an elephant off an elephant again, though I have It is disgustingly cruel to often been close to them. do so, as the brain cannot be reached when firing
off
pad
or
howdah.
have something to say
of running down elephants, catching them in pitfalls and in keddahs, as I have had experience of all
three modes.
The
first is
as exciting
and
far
more
dangerous than even pigsticking.
Noosing and Running Down Elephants. I was under the impression nothing could exceed in excitement hog-hunting, but I am not sure that the above is not almost as much so and far more dangerous,
whilst as far as bodily fatigue goes, noosing elephants beats anything I have ever tried. I only went out
twice,
and after each hunt I could barely move a limb for a week. As for my arms, they had been wrenched almost out of their sockets, by holding on and being tossed about, sometimes on one side, sometimes on the
1 1
other, at times in fact,

is
thrown backwards and then forwards oftener off the elephant's back than on it. This
;
not the experience of the native shikaries trained to I believe they could stick to the point of the sport, " r w aters a needle if it were tossed to and fro on the
wild," or carried here
must take years

elephant
to
and there in a whirlwind. It learn to sit barebacked on an

across
going at full speed

pitching on
its
country.
One
forehead, over some and the next the hindtree, quarters perhaps, falling into and sinking into some The pitfall I will first describe the modus operandi.
moment almost
hidden trunk of a fallen
best caste female elephants are trained exclusively for this work almost as soon as caught, are carefully fed
" two are employed to act as chuckers-out," if The koonkies, when their services are required. A thoroughly trained, are thus equipped for a hunt stout rope is passed twice round their body, like a girth, then under the neck and tail like a breastplate and
on grain to give them wind, and only the fastest are Females are retained as koonkies the others assist. used exclusively for running down, but a good tusker
;
or
crupper, and securely fastened close to the withers for The mahout who guides the the sling to be tied to. noose must be a plucky fellow, throws the and elephant
specially trained to the work, and of course he He has a be at home on the beast's bare back.
to assist,
must
man
he
who has
full
also
been trained, and on

it
is
whom
can depend, and whose business
raw," made speed by striking it on a on purpose near the root of the tail, and he has also to assist directly the lasso has been thrown and the
koonkie at
to "
keep the
wild elephant noosed.
On
falling in
with a herd, the
Capturing Elephants.
1 1
out one, generally a good-looking three-parts grown tusker, as they fetch the largest prices when broken, but if no young male is present
singles
mahout
then a good female is selected. Occasionally a fullgrown tusker or even a mucknah is snared, but they
give a great deal of trouble to catch, and to rear afterwards, as very many, from their stubborn resistance, get so badly cut by the rope forming the noose, that The large mortification sets in and destroys them.
merchants
encourage
who
the
send
out
capture of
not parties, do half but or threeany

these
quarters grown calves, but occasionally when they obtain a prize in the shape of a high caste male, they forgive the transgressors, yet if their time has been
wasted in catching useless animals,
all
the
men engaged
in the hunting operations are heavily fined. The mahout on his koonkie rushes at full speed after the
brute selected, endeavours to separate
it
from the herd,

a case of devil
and then
place
trees,
is
for half
an hour or more
!
it is
take the hindmost
The plain where the hunt takes
and
covered with longish grass with scattered its inequalities cannot be seen. One
over head,
moment you
go backwards.
heels
think the elephant and its riders must the next that all must fall
Whatever the dangers, there must be no diminution of speed, whether you break your neck or dislocate that of your steed. Full pelt you must go and bring your quarry to a standstill before it can get second wind, and the superior training and condition
of your elephant enables
you
to do this in
half or three quarters of an hour, perhaps longer if you meet a "Deerfoot," But what a time that is
!
Unless your arms are well trained and muscular, and

I
H4
you hold on with the tenacity of a bulldog, you will be soon thrown off, and if you survived that, As results. you will see little of the chase and its soon as the wild elephant is done up and stops, the koonkie ranges alongside,
and the mahout, who is invariably fastened to the standing up, holding on to a small rope
about its face, feeling the rope dangling its trunk, apparently in the hope of getting
throws the noose over its head. girth for that purpose,
The wild one,

curls
up
it,
rid of
but in so doing it really assists in its own under the neck and is capture, as the knot then slips The koonkie now plants herself as drawn tight. whole weight to the side firmly as possible, leaning her the secured brute, with one foot advanced to
opposite
of the captured beast, who, having
itself .entangled,
meet the struggles

recovered a
little
breath and finding
rushes off with great violence, dragging the koonkie but the noose tightens, the animal gets half after it
;
suffocated
and has
to pull
up
another koonkie then
rushes along the other side, a second noose is thrown, The assistants then jump off and the animal is safe.
tether the feet of their prize, which they do in a few
The minutes, being from long practice most expert. the first thrown had who one the mahouts, notably noose, have now the dangerous task of loosening the
thick ropes round the necks slip-knots and of fastening of their victims, but the koonkies and men are so
well
up
trained and so expert that but few accidents occur. Two or three other tame elephants now close and lavish attentions on the half-strangled captive,
is
while the mahout
attaching a small rope, which he carries for that purpose, to one end of the noose so as to loosen it, which is often a matter of difficulty, for the
115
ropes cut deep into the flesh and cannot easily be extricated. Directly this has been accomplished, the
prisoner
is
placed between two tame elephants, males

if
it
and
tuskers,
shows
a
signs
of
elephant generally directly captive, it resigns itself to its fate, and goes quietly to the place where it is temporarily tethered with other
wild
but fighting finds itself a

;
whence it is moved in a few days to a permanent camp, where it is broken in and made fit for work in six months. When a wild elephant is very obstreperous and proves too strong, the rope attached to the noose is cut and it is allowed to escape but this seldom happens, and when it does, oftener than not mortification sets in and the beast is afterwards found dead. Now and then, but very rarely, a koonkie is overthrown and her riders killed in these encounters.
confreres,
;
This
mode
many
of hunting has now been forbidden, as so of those so caught died, that the Government
it, still it
forbade
is
carried on all the
same on the
strict q.t.,
The
first
but only in remote and far-away provinces. time I was present at such a hunt was
near Tikri Killah, not far from Bengali-hat. My wife was in camp with me. Off a quiet pad elephant, she looked on for a while from a distance, but when
she saw us careering full speed over the plain, covered with long grass and noted for being cut up with watercourses and other obstructions, she thought I
was insane, and went home

herself a
five
fully expecting to find

!
widow
before night
!
That was some twentythe
years
who owned
of
my
ago Mahajun (banker) the koonkies, having met him during one inspections not far from Goalparah, when 1
knew
took him out shooting on the churs
where he actually
I
1 1
and had shown him some other civilities and treated him with consideration, for which he was duly grateful. Most of his men therefore knew me> and when I proposed to be present at a hunt they I had three koonkies, one of them gladly consented. well known, but they were not in training, so they merely joined in the hunt to help if required. I was seated on the fastest koonkie, which carried It of course the most expert mahout and nooser. a walk for was easy work whilst she went at looking a herd. The first we saw did not contain any beast the mahout fancied, so we let it alone and went on
killed a tiger
ahead, but presently we espied a three-parts-grown had four koonkies and eight tusker quite alone. other elephants out besides my three koonkies, and four
We
had separated of course, two elephants being deemed enough to be together, for it was not anticipated that any very large ones would be seen, or if we came across any, there was no need for us to molest them, and the ground we were to go over was very extensive. It was principally a
pad elephants.
We
plain which extended to the foot of the G-arrow Hills, but in it there were clumps of trees in which elephants
took shelter during the heat of the day. Many " down a day or two before. herds had been " marked
The wild mangoes were getting
ripe,
and there were
extensive tracts of the tara or wild cardamom, both

of which elephants are very partial to.
As the two jockeys lay down flat, I did so too The koonkie, left to herto the best of my ability. moved self, along slowly, feeding the while, and the young male showed no signs of distrust until we
were quite
close, in fact I
thought at one time that
1 1
we should have got alongside and secured it without The mahout was coiling any chase whatever. his lasso, preparatory to casting it, when the wild one The mahout jumped up, threw pricked up his ears.
the noose, but he was a second too
late.
It struck the
Off he went, elephant's head but failed to encircle it. and we only about a length behind, but a little on one
side, to the left.
We
had met with our match
in
For quite half a mile we did not gain an The ground was very uneven and I was tossed about everywhere. I had in my youth been accustomed to gymnastics of all sorts, and had been rather a proficient, but during the chase it was like practising on the parallel bars or horizontal pole. I clung on by my eyelids, my hands were clutched and held on like a vice to the top of the girth, and I wished I had had the feet of a gorilla to hold on by them too But I may say that for a quarter of an hour, I was never for two minutes at a time on the elephant's back. I would have cried " Hold, enough," but could not speak. The man behind me belaboured the sore and kept the
speed. inch.
!
koonkie going as fast as she could lay legs to the Several times she came down on her head, ground.
almost precipitated the mahout ahead of me off her back, but he held on like grim death. I never
and
let
go
either,
life.
but
never passed such a quatre d'heure
Fortunately I was fairly strong in those days, as hard as nails, in good condition, and pretty game, but I suffered terrible agonies. My arms
in
my
were
1
all
cannot say
but dislocated out of their sockets, and how thankful I was when the chase took
us across ground which had been cultivated but last

year,
and had not lapsed into tangled jungle, when
1 1
8
,'
-

!
our motion became easier
But
it
was
fully ten
minutes more before our quarry was brought to a stand. We ranged alongside, the noose was thrown.
required breathing time, the chased as well as the chasers. No other koonkie was near us the pace
all
We
had been too
fast
so
the noose was not at
once
tightened, to allow our attendant animal to overtake us. There we were, " cheek by jowl," " all a-puffing and a-blowing," for a couple of minutes. Our attend-
ant beast was approaching, so the mahout secured the noose. The male started off. He was nearly as large as our koonkie, but not so massive, yet he
dragged us fully a hundred yards, until, becoming He was then secured between suffocated, he desisted.
two elephants and removed. Fortunately the rope had not cut very deep into his flesh. He was about fifteen years old, and a year afterwards he was sold at
great fair in Bengal Hurdwa for Ks.2000. That was the best catch of the trip. I was glad to
the
jump
off
and
rest a bit,
and
to be assured that
portion of
body was out of place. hour we saw two sets of koonkies
my
no But in half an
in full chase of
seven wild elephants coming towards us. Mount was the word, and off we went again to intercept the herd, which appeared to have the legs of the tame ones.
This time, for my delectation I think, the mahout singled out a mucknah fully nine feet high and anything but young, and not the sort of beast his
employer would have thanked him for. As I was only We went through the a spectator I said nothing. same torture, but the male did not run long he
;
waited until
charged.
but alongside and then This had been foreseen so the koonkie
all
we were
avoided
it easily,
1 1
but as the wild one scraped past us, the mahout threw his noose and snared him cleverly,
but our elephant was not prepared, so got dragged sideways most ignominiously and all but overthrown.
Our man was on the point of cutting the rope which held us together, when a large tusker was brought up diagonally and charged the mucknah, striking him obliquely. He all but went down, but not quite. The tame beast stepped back a pace or two and was in the act of repeating the dose when the mucknah met him half-way and they crashed so violently together, head to head that both were driven back. More tame elephants arrived on the scene, and as they all
the wild one, he could not resist his fate, so was captured, but the injuries he received
closed in
011
were so great, especially from the rope of the noose which had cut into the flesh to a depth of three or four inches, that before a week was out, mortification set in and he died. We caught one more that day, a small tusker about ten years old. One of his female
relatives gave us a great deal of trouble, frequently charging, so that at one time we thought of letting the youngster loose for a while and securing her, but the
was not worth the catching, so we let a couple of elephants at her and drove her off, then secured the little one. I had had enough of sport by that time, so got on to one of my own pad elephants and went back to camp, and for the next week I was .hoi's de combat ! Of these, two Eight were caught in two days. were strangled outright and two so severely cut that they died. I had one other hunt in the dooars, and having practised for about a week previously I was
said she
mahout
20
more accustomed
to sitting on the bare back of an on that occasion caught nineteen in elephant. three days, but with the exception of one koonkie which fell over a fallen tree, and another elephant not a hunter which fell into a pit-fall both were
We
somewhat damaged and

particular adventures.
laid
up
we met with no
is
it is
One
of these hunts
it lasts
much
like
another, but while
very indeed
exciting.
CAPTURING ELEPHANTS IN A KEDDAH.
The
late
Mr.
Sanderson has been greatly lauded
for the very
successful captures he
made
whilst in
rate
charge of the Government keddah. That he was a firstman is undoubted he was unquestionably the but it must be rememright man in the right place
bered that he took charge of a thoroughly organised department, and some portion of his success should be
accredited to the former incumbent, the late Mr. Nuttall,
with
hunted on two occasions. Mr. Sanderson's success was due not only to the excellent training of the elephants, their mahouts and superintendents, and his own energy, but also to the fact that, the old
I
whom
hunting grounds having been depleted in a great measure, he opened out fresh grounds, and in com-
mencing operations
said he
in the
Garrow
Hills,
it
There are two descriptions of keddahs in use one is merely a ditch about nine feet broad at top, only a foot broad at bottom, and about six the other a combination, a stockade with feet deep
struck
oil."
:
"
may
be
or without a ditch.
The latter is the commonest, for most keddahs are constructed in forests where timber
Capturing Elephants
is
in
a Keddah.
but in parts of Assam, in the vast plains, sometimes only the former is used, though the operaplentiful
;
tions are
much
the same.
narrow entrance
is left,
by a portcullis or abattis, which is after the herd has been driven the entrance at placed in. From the narrow entrance two deep ditches or two
to be closed either
strong fences are made in a A shape and are carried to a considerable distance. If the herd once gets within
this
angle,
and the beaters act together
it
is
not
the elephants within the enclosure. Every means to frighten the herd and drive it forward are resorted to guns are fired, huge bonfires lighted,
difficult to drive
;
tomtoms beaten, cholera horns blown, and amidst the

yelling of the beaters, the trumpeting of the bulls, the bellowing of the cows repeated by the tame elephants
used as beaters
an uproar
is
created sufficient to
overwhelming din of conflicting tumults, a final exertion is made, and the whole or the greater part of the herd is impelled headlong into the stockade or keddah, and the entrance
this
is
awaken the dead.
Amid
exit
closed, while the wild animals, seeking in vain an and finding themselves entrapped, set to work
and create a row
which that previous was as nois made by the wild herd thing. to pull down the sides of the stockade and to trample down the ditch, but every place is guarded and they
to
Great endeavour
are everywhere repulsed either with sharp spears being thrust into their faces or confronted with blazing
torches.
The scene
is
grand and animating, and con-
tinues
without intermission for hours.
The wild
animals finding escape impossible, abandon hope and Sometimes they are resign themselves to their fate.
left
alone for a day or two, or
if
few in numbers, a
122
party of picked koonkies used to the work and their attendants, usually as naked as on the day they were born, enter the keddah, and get a captive between two of them. Their legs are in a minute
or two fettered, ropes thick as many a hawser thrown round their necks, and they are removed one by one between two powerful elephants, to a suitable locality, where fodder and water is plentiful, and it is almost incredible how soon they become docile.
CATCHING ELEPHANTS IN PITFALLS.

This has been forbidden throughout our possessions in the East, as it led to the death of so many beasts.
Men engaged
in this operation note the
way elephants
go to their feeding grounds and back, dig pitfalls about nine feet deep just narrow enough to contain cover them up the body of the elephant and no more
with boughs, bamboos, &c., scatter leaves and grass and fresh elephant dung over the surface, dig other
and along other paths, till I once went there is a regular network of them. with a party and was present when three fine animals were caught and not seriously injured. They (the men) lay in wait, and when the elephants entered the path and were only a few yards from the first pit, they created such a din, firing guns and rockets, lighting fires, beating tom-toms and rushing with
pitfalls at right angles
torches towards the affrighted herd that a The leader, a fine rush forward naturally took place.
lighted
female,
noise
fell
;
and there
into the first pit, the others scattered here but there were perils in every path. The
made was
awful,
and
only wonder that more
Catching Elephants in Pitfalls.
123
animals were not entombed, for in the panic they took any path, and all others but those leading to Thus it seemed that every the pits were blocked.
victim, but fortunately for the herd they only lost three of their leaders, two females and one male, but this repaid the hunters well, for
its
snare would hold
they represented at between some fifteen

work.
least
men
Ks.4,500 to be divided not bad for one night's
In Upper Burma, close to the city of Umrapoorah

the former capital, they had two inclosures close to the walls in which they used to catch wild elephants.
One was thus caught while
was there
in
1856.
These AV ell-trained cow elephants were let loose. wandered into the jungles, allowed the males to make love to them, and then Delilah-like betrayed them
by enticing their admirers within the enclosure. I was told as many as twenty valuable males had thus
been caught in one year. It cost nothing, for the females were let loose in the slack season, when not required for timber operations, and in almost every
case they became pregnant, and brought forth in due time. But our Government has never succeeded in
breeding elephants, nor was their mode of copulation known to us till lately. But in Siam, they do much as the Burmese, and when a female is inclined for the
male, she is let loose, is duly covered, and generally returns back to her Pheel-Khana. Occasionally one is
but in Siam elephants are plentiful, and one more or less does not matter. But I think it is cheaper and
lost,
better in the long run to catch the adult animals than to breed them, though the Keddah Department is a
very considerable cost to the Government of India,
24
Once, whilst lying in wait for a wounded tiger, our

shikaries were unexpectedly charged by an elephant and had to run for their lives, fortunately the angle
was not favourable, so we did not fire and lucky it was for us that we did not, for it turned out to be a
run-away elephant belonging to the Gairapore rajah on which he placed a great value. He, with the aid of our elephants, next day recaptured it, but it was in a state of must and had to be tied up away from all the others, with the exception of a female on each side, who soothed him during his violent fits.
CHAPTER
IV.
INDIAN BUFFALO SHOOTING.

I
LOOK
upon
this
animal,
if
not as the most
dangerous, certainly as one of the most formidable of thejfenE natures. They are not only very savage, but
very
treacherous,
and
most
difficult
to
kill.
He will lie in wait solitary bull is invariably morose. in a dense patch of grass and attack anything that
comes in his way.
rogue elephant.
of
anything worse than a Baldwin, of the Bengal 39th, author

is if
He
Large and Small Game of Bengal, was attacked

bull buffalo, whilst out small
by a wild
game shooting,
near Loqua-Ghat, and all but killed. Just a year with whilst out Sir Charles afterwards, Reid, I was charged by a bull, in almost the same locality, and
that without any provocation. were on elephants and were well armed, and he paid for his temerity with his life. He looked a fiend incarnate as he
I was passing by a patch of which he was hiding. Neither the long grass Assamese nor the Burmese keep any entire bulls, but trust to the wild ones to keep up the breed. There is therefore but little difference, if in size and any, ferocity between the so-called wild and tame cattle.
We
charged out at me, as

in
126
During the breeding season wild bulls take possession of the tame cows, feeding with them during the day, and retiring with them towards w here the}7 are
r
picketed during the night, and he often becomes a nuisance, loses his fear of man, and will not allow the gwalas to approach the cows. Oftentimes he attacks
and occasionally kills some of the people. After he has done the needful he is doomed to death. The to him when he is envillagers attempt hamstring
grossed by the females, or they drop a heavily-weighted dart from his back, or employ someone to have frequently shot them at the
I
dig pitfalls, a height on
or
to
I
shoot
him.
request
of the
had then often to kill them on foot, and people. is it very ticklish work meeting this formidable beast on equal terms and on level ground. The tame
cattle
are
not to be trusted either.
They
dislike
Europeans, and I have had many a narrow squeak from them, as they have frequently chased me when I have been snipe shooting and not expecting hostilities.
Dr.
Mason has
stated that he believed the wild
buffaloes to be descended from

I believe
the very contrary
is
the case.
tame ones run wild, but The Assamese,
in strong nets,
made
expressly for the purpose, catch
not only wild calves, but often full-grown and halfgrown cows and bulls. The latter they kill, and sell
the former they tame and herds. The Burmese buffaloes with their incorporate have very heavy horns, much curved as a rule, but
;
the meat to the Cacharies
the long-horned variety
is
also frequently
met
I
with.
The
largest
head
have heard of was one
gave the
Earl of Mayo, when he was Viceroy of India, The horns round the curve from tip to tip measured
Indian Buffalo Shooting.
27
thirteen feet eight inches, whilst straight across the Immense tips the distance was six feet six inches.
as were these horns, I
am
not sure whether
did
not see a pair fully their equal in Burma.
Near
T'seben, a favourite spot of mine for snipe, there was an albino cow in a herd. When she threw back
her head, elevating the nostrils, each horn lay along the back and reached almost to the root of the tail.
They must each have been nearer seven

six
if
feet
than
not even more.
coveted those horns.
The
price of an ordinary buffalo in
was Bs.50, but the

to secure his cow,
Burma in those days owner, seeing how anxious I was

less
would not take

to give him.
than Rs.200,
which
I declined
Although buffaloes
they at times
inhabit remote and
swampy
localities,
do a great deal of damage to cultivation, as they are fearless and often refuse to be driven off. In the
wild state, they wander about the same jungles, and herd in company with elephants and rhinoceros. A Burmese elephant, often a timid creature with most
to
wild animals, cares little for a buffalo, as he is so used the tame cattle, and fails to see any difference
that
are
between those that are denizens of the jungles, and
The kept for domestic purposes. buffalo's forehead is narrow and convex, horns black, colour blackish slate, hair scant. There are occasional
those
albinos,
both tame and wild.

I
the same as a rhinoceros.

as he lay
they are almost measured a large bull

size
tail
In
dead
twelve feet to the root of the
from the
height,
tip of the nose ; tail, two and a half feet ; six feet two inches The thickest horns I
!
Burma
ever got were from the very first buffalo I killed in they were not long, but each horn measured
;
128
round the greatest circumference, twenty-seven and twenty-six and a-half inches respectively. These brutes have given me more trouble to kill than any other animal, and the fights I have had with them have been innumerable. After the first year in Assam, during which I killed twenty- two or I seldom fired at twenty-three, I kept no account.
them unless they disputed the right of way, or came across a bull with exceptional horns, or to use the carcase as bait for tigers. Although elephants
my
have been struck several times, only one was seriously wounded, and she could not then be worked for fully
four months.
On
one occasion a friend and
were
charged by a whole herd of these irritable brutes, a most unusual proceeding such a thing never having
But on that occasion we had formed line, M. on the right and I on the left, and were in search of a stag marsh deer which I had wounded.
since occurred to me.
We
did not
know
the buffaloes were there.
rush
occurred, the lon^ grass was borne down and five of those animals dashed down upon us. So sudden and
before
unexpected was the assault, that they were upon us we could even fire. The bull made for M.,
whose elephant behaved splendidly, received the brute on his one tusk, and threw it off as easily as a dog would a rat, and M. killed him before he could
recover his legs.
The
others,
after
I
sending
the
emptied my them, but so persistent were they that they chased my elephant
beating elephants flying, battery of four heavy
rifles
came
for me.
into
some way, and she only escaped being wounded by her superior speed. She was one of the fastest of her race that I ever rode. But the bovines did not escape
Indian Biiffalo Shooting.
129
without punishment, for we picked up next day two dead, which with M.'s made three out of the five.
The others doubtless had received mementoes
of the
event from my weapons, which they (i.e., the buffaloes) were not likely soon to forget. Once, with Frank B., I was shooting at Myung,
which only ran a short distance, and then pulled up in a small patch of His elephant would not advance, and long grass. he called out to me to beat round and take the
bull,
and
he wounded a
enemy in the rear, this I proceeded to do. I got near enough to see a dusky form, and was about to fire, when the brute rushed not at me, but at my companion, whose elephant turned tail, and went off
While holding on to the howdah with one hand, for he was not used to riding runaway animals, Frank endeavoured to shoot with the
full score
!
other, but failed completely to stop his antagonist, who, rushing in with unusual velocity, gave the
elephant a prod behind which impelled her several " blue yards forward, and caused her to bellow murder." The assailant followed up his success and
pursued two more nasty " " Lutchmee on at All this time I had urged prods. her fastest speed, for the elephant and bovine were
again
closed, giving
the
closely
struggling,
the
latter
inflicting
all
the
punishment, the
herself.
former not attempting to defend

I
When
arrived alongside,
The infuriated
bull then turned on
me
opened fire. and struck my
elephant with his whole force close to the fore leg, but fortunately the horns passed on either side " of my hattie," so firing down I broke the brute's
spine,
and he
rolled over,
but was by no means dead.
30
for
ficent
though unable to get up, his rage was magnihe bellowed, he tossed his head and forequarters about, unsubdued hatred darting out of his To hit a vital spot was not easy, as his eyes. movements were so rapid, and it took three shots before I had administered a quietus. Frank was too much done up to assist me. When all was over, we got down to examine the damage. My companion's elephant had five severe stabs, mine had escaped with only the blow of the forehead, but the part so struck swelled up, and she was somewhat lame for a
;
day or two. For a longtime there was a "rogue" buffalo which was the terror of a large village not far from Myung. He was very often to be seen out in the open. There was no getting at him on an elephant, as he had been frequently hunted before. Once or twice, when coming back on foot from shooting small game, with only a shot gun in my hand, he had threatened to charge, so the next time I was out in that direction, I made inquiries, and finding that he was still there, C., of the Artillery, and I determined to rid the country of this
We took a couple of gun-bearers, dangerous brute. each carrying a heavy rifle, and whilst C. advanced
from the side of the
remained some way off, behind a clump of long grass, as there was very little We both knew the way cover in the whole plain. the bull retired if he decided on retreating, but we I very fully anticipated that he would show fight.
village, I
easily secured
my
position
which
did
by a
cir-
cuitous route, so as not to be seen by the enemy. There the buffalo stood, like a statue, almost equidistant between my post and the village. On my
131
hoisting a handkerchief on a long rod, C., in company of about fifty Assamese, advanced. The object was to
drive the beast past me, and not to attack him, if it I could soon see that could be avoided, in the open. C. was ready to open fire, as the brute would not
on the contrary stood facing the crowd, shaking his head and horns and pawing the These demonstrations ground with his fore feet. were too much for the cowardly Assamese, for they began to loiter, then to get together, and finally halted. While the enemy's attention was riveted on
budge an inch
the concourse of people in front of him, I thought I would steal a march upon him and take him from the
rear
and flank so leaving
my cover, I quickly advanced, my

and then, spinning
I do not think bidding gun-bearer to keep close. that the animal was aware of approach until I
my
was within
fifty
yards of him
round, he charged at once, thinking, I suppose, that two men were less formidable than half a hundred.
As he turned, C., who was only about forty yards off, gave him two shots, well placed but a little too far back to be mortal nevertheless they caused him to
;
stumble.
now
fired at his
chest
his
head was
down when I pulled the trigger. My first shot caught him on the top of the nostril and went through both jaws, my second taking him in the
breast.
when
me.
my spare weapon a pair of formidable horns were all but around The fiendish eyes glared with intense hate the
I
had just time
to seize
damaged muzzle and the pouring blood gave him a diabolical look, and as he lowered his head with a view of tossing me I gave him a shot in the head and, springing aside, just escaped a vicious prod he made K 2
132
at
me.
As the brute passed me
fired
into his
shoulder and took to
my
heels towards C.,
who was
hurrying up to my assistance. My man had thrown himself down, and the buffalo, all but Winded by the blood which poured down his face, and smarting from
wounds, did not perceive him, but went clean over his prostrate form, staggering and all but falling. As I ran, I reloaded, and was still some twenty yards from C. when the plucky buffalo pulled up, turned
his
As round, and without hesitation rushed towards us. soon as I was reloaded I pulled up. C. came on so
that
we were now about

our
fire
reserved
until
fifteen yards apart. Both the buffalo (who seemed
puzzled as to
whom
he should close with) singled
me
out, but changing his mind made for C., who stood his ground bravely. He had his second gun by him,
whilst I had but one.
We
C.
the beast three barrels
no time, but gave two and I one but the

lost
brute bore a
charmed life. With my left barrel I again fired and broke one of his legs, when he came down very heavily, but picking himself up and then seeing the Assamese running across the plain, went C. now gave him two more for them on three legs. it was evident the natives shots. and as reloaded, ran faster than the wounded animal, and that they
I.
incurred
bearers
for
little
danger,
both of
mine had rejoined me a cattle-shed which lay in the direction that the
for
with our gunby this time made

us,
people were retreating, for by proceeding towards it direct (the mob had taken a circuitous route,
followed
by the
buffalo),
we got
there before them.
However, they continued their flight, so now we were Two more body between them and their pursuer.
Indian Buffalo Spearing.

shots and one in the neck sufficed
;
133
the beast however

is
was not dead, but lay down.

to
There
no trusting
one of these treacherous brutes, even in articulo mortis, for by a dying effort they have been known
to
jump up and
!
kill
their foe, dropping
dead the
Thus we advanced carefully. When within ten yards, I got a clear view of the back of his head and fired. There was a quiver, the head fell
next instant
forward, the body turned over on its side, the outstretched legs idly beat the air, and a moment after The terror of the neighbourhood had all was over.
were disappointed in at last joined the majority. his horns, as they measured barely eleven feet from tip to tip, although in life they looked immense,
We
and we thought we had scored a record. Simson, who probably has killed more boars off horseback
than
anybody
else
in
India,
with
perhaps
the
exception of the late Col. Nightingale, has, in his charming book of Sport in Eastern Bengal, vividly described riding down and shooting buffaloes off
horseback, which, considering the nature of the ground which had to be traversed, and the tenacity of life
possessed
by these formidable and
ferocious beasts,
was unquestionably most dangerous work.

fifty
years ago, spearing buffaloes off a favourite pastime. The late Dr. Chalmers gave a grand description of such a hunt, in one of the old Indian sporting I unfortunately have not got it reviews. by me, but
I
Yet some horseback was
remember
that, after spearing a bull buffalo twice,
the gallant medico's horse stumbled and fell just as the foe was charging. The bull tossed its assailant,
inflicting
many wounds on
him, and would doubtless
134
have killed him outright, had it not been for a bull mastiff which was out with his master and came to
the rescue, attacking the infuriated buffalo and in other ways diverting his attention from the insensible doctor. Fortunately Chalmers's syce had seen the
occurrence.
He
hurried into
the station and gave

officers, civilians
intelligence of his employer's death as he supposed.
Some
indigo
half-a-dozen Europeans
planters
and
were
on their
off to
horses
in
a few
moments and galloped
the scene of action,
where they found the bull and dog still fighting, and the disabled sportsman lying in a pool of blood. The dangerous brute happily was soon dispatched and Chalmers was carried home and eventually
recovered to
When
the tale of his miraculous escape. once near Nowgong the people asked me
tell
had taken possession of a herd of cows, and wouldn't allow them to come So accompanied by one man I home at night. walked out about three miles to a marshy plain I had where the bull was pointed out to me. She had been taken ordered my elephant to follow.
to kill a bull for them, as he
" out to bring her charah in, for I did not propose out that hunting day, having some work to going attend to, as well as expecting some native con-
"
tent about 11 a.m. tractors to be at Seeing no " hattie," and a convenient white antsigns of man hill within easy shot of the buffalo, bidding
my
my
my
climb a small tree and not to descend unless

him,
I
I told
crawled up until
got behind the hillock.
as a support, I fired two shots, and Using As I was loading the bull fell down apparently dead.
its crest
heard hasty steps coming towards me.
It
was the
135
native, who, thinking his enemy killed, was hurrying up to insult and vilify the slain. I bid the man not " to move, but he replied Murgya" (He is dead), and ran forward. He got close up to the beast and* com-
menced to
spit
upon
fire
it,
when up jumped the bull, and
he had rolled over the native, and, kneeling down, he began pounding the man into the soft ground so as to almost bury him, and then
before I could
went back and related what had occurred. The body was recovered and taken to the Assistant Commissioner, before whom a complaint was lodged that I had caused the man's death and heavy damages were demanded. After my explanation I never heard anything more of the matter, so I presume the case was dismissed.
fell
dead.
GAUR, FAMILIARLY CALLED BISON SHOOTING.
The gaur
is
a noble
animal to look
at.
It
is
widely distributed throughout our Eastern possessions, but has been extinct in Ceylon for a considerable time I may say. beyond the memory of man.
found in Travancore, in all the Western Ghauts, in most of the hilly ranges in Southern, Eastern and
It is
Central India, and in Assam, but nowhere does it grow to the size it does in Burma, unless it be in the
Mishmi Hills, from whence I have had brought down some very fine heads. There is only one species of the Bos gaur us or Gaveus gaurus, but two distinct
varieties,
which
may
be due to climatic causes, to

or
influences
superabundance of food, but there is

;
diversity
of
external
no doubt that
the
two
varieties exist,
and a comparison of the
skulls in the
136

in
museum
doubt.
Calcutta places
is
the
matter beyond a
The Indian variety

;
about nine and a half

;
the or ten feet long from the nose to tip of the tail is skull the inches tail thirty-four massive, the long
frontals large, deeply concave, surmounted by a large semi-cylindric crest rising above the base of the There arc thirteen pairs of ribs. The head is horns.
square, proportionately shorter than in the ox, and the bony frontal ridge is five inches above the frontal
plane.
The muzzle
is
large
and
full,
and the eyes
The small, with a full pupil of a pale blue colour. whole of the head in front of the eyes is covered with
a coat of close short hair of a light grayish-brown
colour,
which below the eyes is darker, approaching The muzzle is grayish, and the hair almost to black. The ears are broad and fan- shaped, thick and short. and the neck, which is sunk between the head and back, is short, thick and heavy. Behind the neck, and
immediately above the shoulder, rises a fleshy gibbosity,
or
The gradually goes backwards, and ridge The chest terminates about the middle of the back. is broad, the shoulder deep and muscular, and the forelegs short, with the joints very short and strong, and the arm exceedingly large and muscular. The hair on the neck and breast is longer than on the body and the skin of the throat is somewhat loose, The foregiving the appearance of a slight dewlap. legs have a rufus tint behind, and laterally above the white, the hindquarters are lighter and lower
hump, of the same height

rises
as the dorsal ridge.
as
it
than the
fore, falling
suddenly from the termination
of the dorsal ridge.
and
thighs
is
The skin on the neck, shoulders very thick, about two inches, the
Description of Gaur.
137
horns, pale greenish with black tips curving outwards, upwards, and slightly backwards, and finally inwards.
General colour, dark chestnut brown, or coffee brown legs, from knee downwards, a dirty white. The above
;
description
is
from Jerdon, and
is
very exact as
The Burmese differ in applied to the Indian gaur. The head is longer the nose the following respects
:
arched like a ram's (some of the Indian ones have this the dorsal ridge is more too, but in a less degree) and much extends further backwards, to prominent within a short span of the loin or hip-joint. Whereas
;
in India a bull of nineteen
cows in Burma
an old bull
is
considered very large, have been killed at that height, and

is
hands
The cows in India slighter and more
often twenty- one hands and more. differ from the bulls in having while those in heads, graceful
Burma have
longer heads with the noses more arched than the bulls. The necks are slighter, there is no
hump, and the points of the horns do not turn towards each other at the tips, but bend slightly backward and are much smaller. The legs too, are of
a purer white.
frontal ridge nent in the
is
Whilst in the Indian cows the bony scarcely perceptible, it is most promiones.
size,
Burmese
small feet for their
gaur have very not much bigger than those

All
of a large sambur. The old bulls have the bases of the horns much truncated with rough ridges, and each " " shikaries assert, represents a year of its ridge, the
life,
after six years of age, before which they are not If correct in this, I have shot gaur over apparent.
thirty years of age.
The skin of an
old specimen
exudes an oily substance, slightly offensive. Never sit on a dead one, for this substance will cause a stain
138

is
which
ineradicable.
These animals browse on the
young shoots of the bamboo, and graze on such grasses as they can find, but come down to the plains after
fires for the sake of the new growth. the of the day, they retire to the deep heat During forests, or if the gad flies are very troublesome,
the annual
they force their way into some heavy grass and lie in The wind being favourit, to avoid their tormentors.
they are not difficult to approach on an elephant, because they are so accustomed to seeing and hearing the wild ones moving about them in the jungles which
able,
are their joint homes.
never saw one charge an
elephant, but have heard of its doing so when wounded and hard pressed, but many sportsmen when following them on foot have been killed and occasionally " they run amuck." I will here relate an instance. By some accident, I fancy, the beasts had miscalculated the distance from one forest to another where they were bound, for at daybreak they found themselves close to an Assamese village, and the villagers, as is their custom for purposes of nature, " were scattered about the plains, so the gaurs ran amuck," probably more in fright than with any other intent, killed several people, and one man (who was
;
then alive in
Goalparah dispensary) escaped with scarcely a whole bone in his body. That they do miscalculate distances and localities is proved by the
the
wandering gaur having taken up his position in some jungle at the foot of Goalparah Hill, around which were numerous villages and houses, at He was least twenty miles from his usual habitat there killed by a police officer, to the wonder of the inhabitants, who had never seen such an animal.
fact of a
!
Gaur
Although
Shooting'.
139
shot placed behind or in the centre of the shoulder, or a raking shot forward
difficult to kill, a
will
account for them.
When
alarmed their enormous
strength enables them to crash through
tree jungle as if they were but reeds. disturbed suddenly, they will gallop forward for about fifty yards, then pull up and turn round, staring at
bamboo and Often when
the intruder.
Several times
have admired these
noble beasts
when
have come across a herd combulls, graceful cows,
posed of stupendous
and pretty
calves, peacefully grazing on the short crisp grass. If alarmed they often snort and sometimes stamp,
after the
manner
of deer, with
their
fore foot, to
intimidate the intruder, I fancy. The marrow bones and tongue of a gaur are a bonne bouche to the
I am told the flesh is very greatest of gourmets. good, especially the so-called hump. On either side
of the dorsal ridge above the shoulder, the flesh lies in three longitudinal layers, easily removed one
from the
the
tit-bit,
is
other, the
the
tail
part being considered makes excellent soup, and the

centre
it is
hide
valuable, for
when cured
grand soling
fox-
hunting boots. younger bulls

are
The very old gaurs when driven by from the herds, become morose, and
they carry the
by
far the best for shooting, as
largest heads, but they are not easy to find, selecting All the isolated and remote localities to reside in.
gaurs, wild cattle, buffalo and deer tribe, and it is said even the felidce, are very fond of a species of white
clay impregnated with natron, and wherever this is found other conditions also being favourable there
be found the gaur. These animals are not found in the Himalayas. There the bungaur or wild yak
will
140
takes their place. But in Chittagong, the gaur, the and the tsine gayal (wild cattle) are found not far
from one
forests.
another
is
inhabiting
the
same
hills
and
never free from the cattle disease, and this at times extends to the wild cattle, who
stricken go
if
Assam
when
in hundreds.
the Wheels where they die The Assamese call the gaur and gayal
to
down
mithun
pressed, they call the larger animal (the
gaur) the asseel mithun (or true mithun), and the other mithun only. This led the late Mr. Sanderson,
a careful observer, to assert that the gayal was not found in a wild state, for the mithun shot by him
were undoubtedly true gaur. The gaur has not been known to interbreed with domestic cattle, whilst
hybrids between the gayal and the zebu are very
common.
I
shot a great
many
Assam, and many
in India.
gaur in Burma, a few in The late Mr. Blyth, the
best naturalist of his day, wrote to me that T must be mistaken in declaring that the gaur was to be found
in
Burma,
as he thought its place there
the gayal, but some heads which I
was taken by sent him, and some
he procured himself when on a visit to the province, induced him to write that, not only was he mistaken
in asserting that this noble wild bull did riot exist,
but that on the contrary, the Burmese variety was much finer than the Indian. The first pyoung
(Burmese for gaur) I saw killed in Burma, was when I was out with the late Brigadier Glencairn Campbell, The first-named killed Major Lloyd, and Liardet. it, but the second claimed it, as having first hit it. We saw many more that trip, but got no other then. The next year I was out and shot several three in
Gaur
one
day.
I
Shooting.
141
saw on that occasion about a dozen. Every succeeding year Lloyd and myself killed many. On one trip it was a hot sultry day, and I had not had much luck up to 11 A.M. I came to the edge of a dry nullah. On the opposite bank stood a bull gaur facing me, looking as if much amazed. We were only about ten paces apart I took a careful aim for the centre of the forehead and fired, but the beast turned round, and as he ran past I gave him the second On examining barrel behind the shoulder, and killed.
:
the slain, we could only find one shot, the fatal one, I and the shikarie declared my first was a miss.
could not credit

at ten paces
?
it.
What
Miss the broad forehead

?
Yet where was the wound
Apthe
parently
nowhere.
When
the
man opened
mouth
ball
had entered one
to extract the tongue, we discovered that the nostril the head was thrown up
itself in
as I pulled the trigger
and had imbedded
and cut the palate all along, the immense muscles of " the neck. Many years after I was again on Bison Hill," up the Godavery. All these hills have a peculiar formation, being flat on the top, abut on the river, and then go inland fifteen or twenty miles. (Hills very similar in formation and appearance exist on the Niger also in South Africa.) These are separated
;
by well-wooded declivities that slope down to a watercourse, from whence they ascend and join the next These are full of game of all sorts, gaur range.
In 1851, Cotton of especially being very plentiful. of our the Civil Service, Dansey 30th, and I ascended " Bison Hill," bison the range and christened it
being a misnomer in
common
beast.
use
sportsmen
for this
grand
amongst Indian Generally on these
142
hills I
have been very lucky, but on that occasion we could not find a bull worth shooting although we saw scores. In searching several dales and secluded
valleys, where a solitaire would be likely to take up his quarters, we came across an old woodcutter.
He had
seventy
all his
been a
if
fine
he was a
the
man in his time, but he was day. He had lived in these wilds
his livelihood
life,
and earned
blossoms
by
collecting-
firewood,
of
the
mhowa
tree
and
" " but we the village." Yes, we know that," said I, want a solitary bull one that lives by himself."
"
every inch of the country. We honey. " asked him if he had seen gaur. Gaur," said he, "why they are as plentiful on these hills as flies in
He knew
Why,
there
is
the veteran.
I'll
"
one not half a mile from here," replied I saw him, not half an hour ago. Come,
to you.
I
show him
and
have known him
for the
last forty years.

calf,
He
lost a part of
one ear when a

alone,
for the last
twenty years he has lived
and
day.
retires to the thick cover

I see
during the heat of the
him nearly every day."
We followed the old man. He took us over the brow

and descended into a hollow was narrower than usual the sides steeper, and in the centre was an almost dry The nullah sides were well wooded, watercourse. a clumps of bamboos also affording grateful shade were here and there scattered about, while in the bed The of the nullah, small pools of water existed. place was well chosen, for the gaur had all he required We went along for about half a mile, close at hand.
of the hill
on,
It
we were
hills.
between two
the woodcutter leading, when suddenly he pulled up and stretched out a long bony, but still muscular,
Gaur
Shooting.
hill side.
143
arm, pointed half-way up the
Looking
in
His horns that direction, I saw a splendid old bull. were somewhat worn at the tips, but still long and
massive.
stood side on, but looking at us, or at The his old acquaintance who had betrayed him.
He
As I fired, the bull rolled over The old native ran forward for what purpose it is impossible to say for he was a Hindoo to whom the animal and all its kind are sacred, and he would have died rather than have touched it. But familiarity, it is said, breeds contempt. The old fellow had seen these animals probably for over sixty he had never hurt them or they him, and it years could only have been mere bravado on his part, but whether or no, it cost him dear, for as the bull reached the bed of the watercourse, he sprang up and the old man was only a pace from him, when, lowering his head with a bellow which I have scarcely got out of
shot was an easy one.
and
over.
even to this day, so horrible did it sound, he rushed at the woodcutter and ran past us with the
my
ears
man
I dropped the apparently impaled on his horns. bull in his tracks stone dead, but our ancient guide was dead too. The horn had not penetrated the
was too blunt in fact to do that but the blow must have struck just over the heart. The loin cloth had become entangled on the horns, and thus the man was carried past as described. We bore the
victim
it
body
camp, sent word to Lingum Eeddy, the head man, but no one claimed relationship with the defunct, so my people prepared a pyre and cremated the body. The head of the gaur when brought in was minus half an ear, and the ridges at the base of
to
my
the horn just numbered thirty- two, and
if
the native
144
theory
is

true, the
gaur must have been fully as old as
betrayed him and suffered death in consequence. I have only known one other of the others and I slew a great gaur charge. None
reported by the
man who
many
ever showed fight.
THE GAYAL
These
wild
BOS FRONTALIS.
Chittagong Munnipore, in a few localities in the northern and eastern parts of Assam, and probably are found extending north and east to the borders of China.
kine are plentiful in parts of the extend into the interior to Hills,
numerous along the spurs of the Bhootan Hills, amongst the Dufflas, Tipperah, Looshais, and in the wild districts which skirt Chittagong. It is domesticated extensively and easily. Very many of the young wild cattle are caught in nets and are
They
are
tamed, the great attraction being huge lumps of rock salt, which have an extraordinary fascination for them.
placed near where they assemble every When domesticated, they are let loose at evening. daylight to browse in the adjoining forests, and are recalled by the tinkling of bells or the striking of gongs.
This lure
is
The forehead of the gayal is not concave like a gaur's, but quite straight and destitute of the semi-cylindrical The horns grow straight out and then curve crests.
very slightly upwards, and in the old bulls only are very slightly truncated. The forehead is broad and,
like the
gaur's, covered
with lightish-coloured
hair.
browses more than Bos gaurus, and unlike it, has a small but distinct dewlap. The dorsal ridge is promiIt
nent, but not so
much
as in the larger animal, but at
The Gayal.
145
a distance one might easily be mistaken for the other, for the colouration is the same. They frequent similar
ground, and are probably cousins several times removed. It is said that they, the gayal, have been seen in the
north grazing not far from the wild yak.
have seen
many of these cattle wild, tame thoroughbreds, and tame hybrids although I never shot but two, and that was upon the only time I followed them up. The bull was almost the exact counterpart of the one in the Zoo, which is as fine an animal of its kind as can be found. Hybrids between these wild cattle and zebus or Indian tame cattle have run wild, and are fairly plentiful in the lower ranges of the Bhootan Hills. As the two I killed fell to double shots right and left, there is no tale of adventure to tell. Many that have died of the murrain I have seen on the
very
borders of Assam.
THE TSINE
(BOS SONDAICUS).
hill tracts
These wild cattle extend from the
of
Chittagong downwards, and are found It Sumatra, Borneo and the Celebes.
in
is
Java,
a
wary
animal, grazes in the open quins or plains, and is not easy to approach. Although a sacred animal according
the Burmese shikaries, who are damned upon by their co-religionists, because they take life, sit up in trees and pot these
to their
religion,
looked
as
kine as they pass by, and sell the jerked meat to the These are villagers, who do not hesitate to buy it.
true cattle, very handsome, of a deep red (the very old bulls get almost black in their second childhood),
with white rings round the eyes, white under the L
146
belly
along the buttocks, and ti lighter red about the legs below the knee, almost A very slight approaching to dirty white stockings.
tail,
and under the
hump, which
in the ridge, together with a very not slight dewlap, always apparent, is also characteristic of them. The head is very like that of a wild stag,
is lost
the facial angle being quite straight, altogether unlike the formation of the gaur, or even of the gayal. I have seen herds of them, but only came across them
on two hunting
fine bull
;
once with Charlie Hill, governor of H.M.'s Prison, Manchester, when we killed a
trips
and once, some years afterwards, in an open It retired to space in the Yomahs, I tracked a herd. a grove of trees, which formed as it were an oasis in the vast plain their spoor, with droppings, was fresh, but to get at them during daylight seemed impossible. I talked the matter over with Shoay Jah and Moung Kyang, the two shikaries, and we decided to start by moonlight at 3 A.M., lie in ambush in the tope of trees, and try and get a shot at daybreak. There were a lot of tigers about. I had shot two the
;
day
good scrimmage, and it is far from pleasant to walk through tigerish grass at any time, But such things have to be particularly by night.
before, after a
done
if
you are
to be successful in circumventing a
Accordingly we were up wary beast like the tsine. When we reached and away by the time arranged.
our destination we were soaking wet, or rather I was, for my attendants were not encumbered with much
clothing, so
rise.
we
it
sat shivering, longing for the sun to
did appear above the horizon, we were not benefited much, for we had to lie in thick brush-
When
wood, which could not have been more wet had
it
Wild
poured with rain
Cattle Shooting.
147
for the previous twenty-four hours. teeth Six, seven, eight, and nine o'clock passed.
My
were chattering with the cold, and yet not a sign of Bos sondaicus. I was so cramped I doubted whether
aim if the to do so. A lot of thamin or brow were grazing about, and I could have The shikaries at several fine stags.
I
could
lift
an arm
to take
occasion arose
antlered
deer
had easy shots suffered more
than
I did, for
with the exception of the cloth they
wind round
their loins
and pass between

sir,"
is
they were cloth eless, but these " Wait, patient than w e are. cattle are sure to come. To-day
r
their legs, people are far more "
they
said,
the
a cool day, very
cloudy, and they have stayed browsing later than I was sick of waiting, but still, after what I usual." had undergone, I determined to endure the ordeal for Half that time had hardly passed another hour.
away when we heard

Soon
several,
the
distant
low of a cow.
accompanied by calves, appeared on the scene, but the beasts seemed in no hurry to take
their siesta, so fed along leisurely.
Two good
bulls
then approached from separate quarters, each accomIt was panied by his harem of six or seven wives.
not the rutting season thus they all seemed on friendly terms. About ten o'clock, when the sun began to
;
shine fiercely, several cows went into the tope at the nethermost end, but as there was no wind we were
The bulls now fed closer pretty safe from detection. and closer, and at a quarter to eleven wr ere within shot.
I killed
the nearest.
The belted
bullet (for I
I
still
stuck
to
my
two muzzle-loaders, though
had two other
breechloaders) struck it behind the shoulder, passed on and broke the leg of a cow standing near. I also
L 2
148

bull,
but off he and the cows scampered into the open. Those that had entered the tope now ran past me, but not very fast, seeming to be bewildered with the sudden stampede and
reports of firearms, which probably they then heard I killed a nice fat three-partsfor the first time. heifer. grown Bidding the men to cover the slain
wounded the other
over with grass to keep them safe from vultures, I first stretched my limbs, then eat a hard-boiled egg or
two, had a swig of ginger- wine, and then took up the spoor of the wounded bull, and found that the cow
with the broken leg had followed him.
Upon
her
came before long. She was inclined to be savage, but I had no difficulty in dropping her, covering her up He had gone steadily too, we followed the bull. to until he came a along running stream with high muddy banks. There his heart seemed to have
failed him, for after a faint
attempt to go down the
abrupt side he continued along the bank, doubtless The grass was not very heavy, so looking for a ford.
ahead, made sure that he was in front, and did not look out as I ought to have done. On the right, I came to a place where the bank was
I
could see a fair
way
Here the fully ten feet high. fallen tree lay alongside the path.
water was deep, a I had got to about

sit
the middle of the trunk and was half inclined to
down, as the shikaries were some distance behind, when there was a rush from my right and a fierce head and pair of horns were all but on me. I instantly threw myself backwards over the tree, holding on, luckily, with one hand to a branch, so that
although I was over the bank, I still had a grip and did not fall into the water but the impetus of the
;
Wild
bull carried
Cattle Shooting.
lie
149
fell
him
clean over me, and
with an
awful splash into the pool. This must have knocked the wind out of him, for he lay in the water halfI drew myself on to terrajfirma, seized my the both but rifle, pulled triggers, only result was snap, I screamed to Moung snap the caps had fallen off
submerged.
Shoay Jah, and he came up with another weapon. By this time the bull had recovered his breath and
legs,
but
I rolled
it was not for him over dead.
long, for instantly afterwards Once afterwards these cattle,
with calves, rushed past me. When I saw them first were some they grazing way off. Soon after there
was a stampede, with some active beast prancing about on their backs, while to judge by the violent cow-kicking that went on, another assailant was at their heels. A family of leopards were driving off
the herd, doubtless in the hopes of making a meal off one of the little ones, but I interfered, slew one and the rest decamped.
TIGERS,
GAUR AND LEOPARDS. 1
In the good old days, before we annexed Upper Burma (which ought to have been in 1852), Tongho, our frontier station, was a quiet place, and officers had
no
difficulty in obtaining leave
but since the
last
The garrison has been reduced, and no one knows what a day may bring forth in the way of requisition for men and I had officers to chase dacoits and catch only fever
war,
all that.
!
we have changed
own
This happened to a near relative of mine, and words.
is
told in his
50
applied several times for temporary leave, as I was anxious to try some jungles where B. some years before
had been very successful. It was no use going south could no longer get the use of the elephants and since the construction of the railway, big game had gone further inland moreover the old shikaries were dead. But near Lepangyoung, after the forest fires and
I
;
before the
monsoon
at.
sets in,
game can
seen and got
local
occasionally be shikarie of that district, casually in the
Shoay-Boh,
market, told
disarmament of the people since the disturbances, no one but himself possessed a gun within twenty miles round Lepangyoung, and that game was just then very plentiful, and the jungles in a nice state for stalking or beating.
It
whom I knew and met me that, owing to the
was early
in
May. and
as the
man was
returning
home next day, I hurried off on the impulse of the moment to my commanding officer, who was also the commandant of the station, to solicit three days' leave
from the following Monday. That was on Friday I was not on duty on Saturday I had not to attend church parade on Sunday so I calculated that if I " was successful in my application I could " sniggle
;
those two days as well. After humming and hawing a bit, the leave was granted. I hurried off to a
Madras contractor, who had some carts, and now and let them out on hire, but he charged Es.2 a day besides the keep of the cattle, and in case of an accident to either cart or bullock I was to make
then
good the loss. It did not take me long to get my goods and chattels into the cart, and to dispatch it with the servants and orderly to Tseben. with orders to go on at daybreak to Lepangyoung and to put up in
Tigers,
Gaur and Leopards.

a
nullah,
151
"
zyat."
village.
near
about a mile
in
the
There were rest houses
beyond Lepang-
young, but I prefer being a little way out, for in a crowded village one has no peace. The young children,
and
girls especially, are
so fond of staring at one.
Telling Shoay-Boh that I had obtained leave and was starting my kit in a bullock- cart, and that if he wished
it,
he could put his things into it and accompany me, gave him a few rupees as a douceur, and he went off to collect his traps. When I saw the miscellaneous he brought
I
was appalled. They would require a cart for themselves, but wishing to conciliate the man, I bade my boy hurry off and get another, which he did, and between them all they managed to fill the two pretty completely. I was glad they were to go on ahead, for the effluvia from the gnapee (of which the Burman was taking back a large supply, not only for his own home consumption, but also I suspect for sale) was most sickening. I sent on a syce and an extra pony too, as I intended to ride out very early and get some I had often shot snipe at sport on the Saturday. Tseben, and had once gone to Lepangyoung in the cold season, but had failed to get anything but jungle fowl and a few yit (pheasants). So by 5 A.M. I was up and away. The country is dead flat there is no regular road, only native pathways, which formerly had been much cut up by commissariatelephants and cattle. Eiding fast therefore was out of the question, but these ponies can amble over ground where a less sure-footed animal would come to grief. In two hours I had reached Tseben. The road was fair beyond, and by nine I was at the zyat, where my boy had a cold collation ready for me. Shoay-Boh told
articles
;
52
he had sent on fifteen beaters, all he could get, to some low-lying hills, cut up with innumerable watercourses (just then quite dry), where there were sambur, ghee (barking deer), and perhaps a panther or maybe a tiger. Meat was scarce. Shoay-Boh had
me
been absent some days and had been unable to procure venison for sale, so the people had been living
and would welcome flesh of any sort. A Burman will eat anything from an elephant to a snail. So it was all fish, like Paddy Myles that, came into his net, so he had on my behalf promised the beaters and villagers that any game I shot would
fish
on rotten
be given to them,
if
they conducted matters properly,

I
and that
in addition
would give each man eight

!
annas, with which he could purchase gnapee, which he, Shoay-Boh, had brought out My orderly had gone on with the beaters, taking with him a pet, double-
and a 12 smooth-bore. By 10 A.M. I was en route After again, and got to the rendezvous by 11 A.M. and the confabs the between reconnoitring country, shikarie, myself and beaters, it was decided to beat a
rifle
long ridge, with a nullah running almost parallel The men took a detour so as to get along its base.
well to the windward, and were to beat towards me.
The
was only about three feet high, and of a kind which deer dearly love. I took up my position on the bank of the nullah, which was pretty free of
grass
jungle, with the exception of one bush, under which I ensconced myself. The bottom of the watercourse
was about seven

it
feet
below
I
me
the bank on
my
side almost perpendicular.
could see fifty yards up and about thirty yards below. There were only few bushes and boulders scattered about, which
Tigers,
Gaur and Leopards.
153
would not greatly

as a rule in this
interfere with the shooting of

I
any
animals presenting themselves.
mode of sport, the day was too to but it ; partial stalking, so I accepted the position and
best.
am very unlucky and am not therefore

advanced
for
hoped
for the
The Burmese, when you can induce them
to
beat for game, if left to themselves, go very quietly to work, use no tom-toms, or other discordant instru-
ments
feline,
which are probably necessary for driving out but do more harm than good when beating
deer or inoffensive game, the deafening noise being heard for miles around, and at the first sound of
for
the game is on the move and is seldom But when armed with split bamboos, and moving along in a row, extending about two yards apart, and giving a tree or a bush a tap now and then, the
seen.
drum
the noise is just sufficient to send a beast on ahead, and does not frighten it out of its seven senses and make it go here, there and everywhere. Along the ridge, where there were a few trees, three men had been placed as stops and the other twelve, few enough in all conscience, forced their way through the grass and The beat commenced jungle. fully half a mile from me, and very soon after pea fowl, jungle fowl and an occasional yit moved along the bed of the nullah.
Had
not been looking out for something in the
way
of deer, I might have made a pretty bag of these beautiful birds, but of course I allowed them to go by " scot free," and they were happily unconscious of the
danger they ran.
In a quarter of an hour after the beat commenced only feather bipeds were seen, but
presently one of the stops indicated that something is coming this way. His tap-tap was succeeded by that
154
of the next, then by the last, and I see hurrying towards me a brocket Meat is badly wanted, and I
!
half
first
make up my mind
to kill while I
I
may
but the
and see again taps, whether something better will not turn up, and allow the deer to pass unhurt. So I bide my time. After
resolve to wait
man
and
the
first
and
I feared
I
stop taps, none of the others repeated it, the quarry, whatever it might be, had
I
escaped.
ment
now
was just before in a fever heat of excitewas just as depressed. When peering
not intently into the jungle beyond the nullah into the watercourse itself seeing nothing in that
eyes up stream and there, standing in the bed of the nullah, was a noble stag a veritable jungle wallah worthy almost of the
direction,
I
turned
my
Neilgherries, which are so
and not one of those miserable sapt x numerous in the plains of Burma. He
was gazing intently down the nullah, but not at me, and so was more probably listening to the beaters I covered him dead, and I think quietly advancing. him as he stood, but curiosity have killed I could overcame my thirst for blood, and I waited to see what would happen. For fully five minutes he stood still, and then, as the beaters approached nearer, he threw up his head, gave a stamp or two with his feet, and trotted in my direction. I then noticed that he was not alone, but had his harem of five hinds with him. As he came abreast The report of the rifle of me I bowled him over. startled the ladies and they rushed here and there utterly at a loss what to do, and doubtless wondering what had killed their lord and master. I had ample
1
Burmese
for
Sambur.
Tigers,
Gaur and Leopards.
155
time to reload, and firing right and left, I brought down two. I did not think that I should see anything more and was about to descend to examine the
fallen,
when
I
tap.
heard a stop give a vigorous tapreloaded and crouched down in my former

I
heart beating with excitement, but nothing became visible. Again a stop indicated that game was afoot, and now the beaters were fast closing
position, with
my
in,
shots.
anxious to ascertain, no doubt, the results of my As I could see nothing, and the third stop had
I
given no intimation of anything being about,

it
thought
and was off my guard, and before I well knew what had happened a very large tiger sprang into the nullah almost opposite me, and bounded up the bank, his head and face being about five paces from me, he clinging to the surface above by his fore feet and scrambling up with his hind. I As I instinctively fired and the tiger fell backward. I of a brindled dismass jumped up just caught sight appearing, and took a snap shot, which the brute
a false alarm,
acknowledged by a deep growl, so I knew that if I had missed the first shot, I had hit with the second, but as the right barrel was discharged within ten or
could scarcely credit having missed it, so I instantly followed on its trail. I approached " " the where Master had place very cautiously Stripes
feet, I
twelve
disappeared.
The bushes were sprinkled

so telling
plentifully
orderly to follow closely with the smooth bore, into which I put a couple of cartridges, loaded with eight buckshot each, I advanced
;
with blood
my
very slowly, as a wounded tiger is not to be played I would take a step, then pause to listen for with. The jungle was not high, but dense, and a sound.
156
to

at all I liad to
push my way throughwork when you don't know how close such a treacherous animal is in front. But in the exciteticklish
move
pros and
moment, one does not pause to calculate cons., but does all he knows to recover the quarry. None of the Burmese had folio wed me. I soon lost all sounds of their voices or beating, and I went on. Every now and then, as a peacock or jungle fowl would get up with a whirr, my heart would be in my mouth, and the gun at the shoulder, thinking it was the tiger springing upon me. But on I went, following the trail and getting well smeared with the
of the
blood, for the bushes on both sides of the trail were
ment
covered with
it.
After going along the right bank for about a mile, the feline had descended into the nullah by a sloping pathway, caused doubtless by wild animals going to
and
fro.
Now
was
safer, as I
could see some

It
little
distance ahead and around me.
was past 3
P.M.
For over an hour I had tracked the tiger, the blood getting less and less, and the country worse, for the nullah narrowed and was more full of boulders and At last I lost all traces and thick thorny bushes. there was not very much daylight left but I did not like to desist, as I had seen frothy blood on some bushes but a little way past, which is a sure sign of a shot through the lungs, which in the long run always Up to five I continued my search, and proves fatal. as I only knew the way back to the village from the point I had started from, I had thus to retrace my When I returned steps by the way I had advanced. where the had ceased, I blood trail the to place thought I would make one more effort to find the
; ;
Tigers,
Ga^lr and Leopards.
157
dead or wounded, so telling the orderly who by the way was of the plucky Mahratta race to go to my right, we separated with the hope of finding the lost
trail
and had not done
so ten minutes,
when
the
Hurrying up to him I found him sepoy shouted. standing by the carcase of a tigress, stone dead, lying jammed between two rocks. In her final death agony
she had sprung up and fallen where the carcase was discovered. I was delighted, as may well be imagined. But there was no time to be lost, for immediately
the sun would be

in the East.
down, and there So with the help of
is
no twilight
follower, I
my
collected a quantity of thorny bushes, grass, and covered the prize over for there was just &c., the chance of finding the body untouched in the morning, as in Burma there are very few jackals, and no hyaenas. My return was much quicker than my advance had been, so I got back to the path leading to Lepangyoung at dark. Everything was no There were signs of the deer I had shot, quiet. which I presumed had been removed by Shoay-Boh.
soon
Walking as rapidly as I could, without getting off the narrow path, I reached the zyat a little before eight, and was delighted to find there not only the
three sambur, but
Shoay-Boh soon appeared, and informed me the feline had fallen dead. The express bullet had entered under its jaw and gone out at the back of the head. So I actually
a
royal
tiger.
killed
I
on this occasion
five
animals in as
many
shots.
pitched into the shikarie for not having followed me or sent some one after me, but he truly said
as there
was no one present of his party when I went off, they did not know which way I had gone,
158 nor that

I
had hit another tiger. Before retiring had the tiger carefully flayed. It was a large one, measuring nine feet eight inches, and very My boy had had bamboo pegs prepared, bulky. so by 11 P.M. we had the skin well stretched and warm wooden ashes rubbed into the inner surface and by midnight I was fast asleep, dreaming of various hunts and narrow escapes, when I was
to rest I
;
" I Coffee, sar." rudely startled with the cry of, was soon up, and after a bath I dressed quickly, and
men, hurried oft* to fetch the tigress. Although it was our day of rest, I took my shot gun with me. The jungle fowl were pretty
abundant, but most
difficult to
collecting about a dozen
put up, but a village
dog
he got at
greatly, but woe betide the bird if before one of us could pick it up, for the brute would devour it in a moment. However, I " " Yit fowl and one before seven reaching jungle got the dead tigress, which we found untouched, and
assisted
me
it
1 did with her returned in triumph. nothing more that day than superintend the pegging-out of the The last skin and the preparation of the two skulls.
is
a very simple matter.
put
the
heads into a
large earthenware pot, and boil them until the flesh peels off; they are then sweet and clean and as
Then I tie them round with in them sew twine, up bags, when they are ready to be sent home to be set up. During the day I had a long confab with ShoayBoh, and it was decided that he and I should start
white as driven snow.
for
some
salt-licks,
in
two or three hours before daybreak,

there before
sunrise.
north-easterly direction, so as to get

said
He
that
there
were
Tigers,
"
"
Gaur and
that
Leoparas.
159
a
pyoung
a
about and
solitary
life.
one was
3
monster
leading
About
for
A.M.
we
away and walked steadily
three
hours, as
got the
greater part of the route lay through forests consisting of teak, sal, and other trees and bamboos,
so there
was not much undergrowth.
We
reached
after
the
neighbourhood of our destination
soon
daybreak, and I closely followed the guide, stepping into his footmarks so as to make as little noise as
possible,
less,
for
though the
vive,
solitaire
might be
fear-
he might be from home, and

the
all
game
are ever
and disappear at the slightest qui noise. As objects became more visible, we saw the slots of gaur and sambur all goinof in one direction that of the licks but as it was down wind it was no
on
;
use following their trail, so we hurried on, making a long detour so as to approach them from the opposite
side.
It
was
fully
A.M.
before
we ventured
to
where the white earth imwith is sodium found. The ground became pregnated uneven, the jungle more dense, and we moved along with greater caution. In front there was a heavy
for the depression
make
fringe of bamboo, extending to a considerable distance north and south. approached it from the east,
We
so as to have the
wind
in our faces.
nearly half a mile broad, and in had flowered but were dead, yet the remainder were most luxuriant and on the point of blossoming, but would also pass away before six months were over, for
all
was one part the bamboos

belt
The
bamboos die after flowering. But it is not often one sees this plant in the latter stage. I have only seen it in flower three or four times during nearly forty years'
1
Gaur.
160

;
When seeding, the bamboo is lovely wanderings. the flowers hang down in clusters, and in times of scarcity the poor people, if they can only find the
bamboo
and
that
I
in seed, collect
it
and use
it
in lieu of rice,
am
told
it is
almost as nutritious.
The grain
falls germinates, and the bamboo forest that succeeds the defunct one is ten times as dense and
extensive
as the one
which existed
before.
When
the bamboos die, the canes fall, get interlaced, and render the forest inpenetrable, which is perhaps a
provision
of
Nature to allow the
fallen
seed
to
untrodden and undevoured, for spring up all ruminants graze on it if they can obtain it in its immature state. The outlying ones suffer greatly on
in safety
this account, although a few survive, but the main crop, protected by their dead ancestors, live, and in a
couple of years the fallen ones have rotted away and the new, now graceful successors, take their place. I
of no sight more lovely than a forest of young bamboos, of which there are many varieties all
know
equally beautiful. Owing to the dead forest, we did not hit off the best of the licks, although there was a path to them, for it was still dark, so we had to get to the nullah
by
circuitous routes,
this time it
and did not reach
it till
nine.
By
the
was getting unpleasantly
hot,
and
retiring to its strongholds in impenetrable jungles, so we went steadily along the disturbed a doe sambur or best way we could.
game would be
We
two,
who with
a bell, would rush away, but as I had
plenty of meat in camp
I would not fire at them. no Marks However, pyoung (gaur) were visible. there were in plenty, but the beasts themselves were
Tigers,
Gaur and Leopards.
161
I told in hiding, or we were too late on the scene. the shikarie I did not want an ordinary gaur, but
the monster.
here,
He
said the leviathan
and that although he kept

salt lick as his
fond of a
aunts.
was usually about was as brothers, sisters, cousins and

to himself, he
halted in a comfortable shady place on the sloping bank of a stream and partook of " our breakfast, with a drop of the craythur." Knowing it is no use looking for game in the heat of the day,
I took a nap. When I awoke, Shoay-Boh was no more to be seen, and as I should be lost in these solitudes
At midday we
ventured to roam about alone, I waited where I It was past four, was, reading an old newspaper.
if I
was beginning to think something must have happened to the shikarie, when he returned and beckoned to me to follow him. Without a word, off I went, armed with my pet '577, loaded with 6|- drachms of powder and a solid conical in each barrel. After going a mile we crossed over the nullah and made for some hilly-looking ground, where, were it not for the wild beast paths, we could not have progressed at all, for the jungle was so dense and so matted with vines and creepers but in about half an hour we got into more open country with bamboo-like grass growing on the sides of the hills. As we walked along Shoay-Boh told me that, finding I was asleep, he had searched about for the slots of the big bull, had found them, and followed him to a knoll not far distant. He had not actually seen the monster, but had heard either its breathing or snoring. The brute's retreat was in such a dense thicket that to get a shot at it it was necessary to climb a tree, and my guide had prepared a bamboo ladder for the purpose.
I
;
and
62
Shoay-Boli quickly climbed up first, but gave a despondent look down, for the bull had gone. That
was a disappointment indeed, yet he could not have gone far. After a brief search we got on his tracks, and they led fortunately in the direction of Lepangyoung. There was but little wind and that was in our favour. We pursued quickly, for we had not much time to waste, and on turning an abrupt corner where there was luckily a banyan tree, with numerous
pendant roots, the bull charged us so suddenly that I had not time to raise the rifle to my shoulder, and as
the shikarie sprang on one side I fired both barrels from the hip and then jumped amongst the roots. The bull went but a few yards, then Shoay-Boli fired
gun, but the monster never swerved. I had by this time reloaded and gave him both barrels at a distance of less than ten feet.
at
him with both
barrels of
my
He
could not squeeze his body between the roots to
get at me, so before he had either advanced or retreated a yard I had reloaded and fired two more
shots.
My
jungle. age in India
He was
foe then retired very groggily into the bull of his certainly a monster.
would have had the tips of the horns worn away, but his were perfect, though he had seen
probably nearer thirty years of age than twenty, and such trophies are rare and therefore to be desired, so
we took up
for
the trail
I
which
Burman most unwillingly do not blame him. Before we had gone

the
half a mile, the bull had turned,
and was going away from, instead of towards, our camp, so as there was barely an hour of daylight left we postponed further We had a dreadful trudge pursuit until the morrow. nine and it was before we got to the home, fully
Tigers,
zyat,
still
Gaur and
Leopards.
163
leaving time this work, my day's of We the the buoyed up by hopes getting prize. took a short cut, so reached the spot where we had
tent
for
four o'clock next morning saw
me
another hard
parted with our quarry last night soon after daybreak, and we had not advanced a mile, when we heard
growling and snarling, so guessed that the gaur was the bone of contention between two felines. Where
this scene
was being enacted we crept up inch by
inch on
all fours.
Coming out
of daylight into the
obscurity of this dense thicket, it was some time before we could distinguish objects around us at
;
last
on
my
left front I
saw an immense dark mass,
with two leopards snarling at one another, ready to do battle for the carcase, although the flesh before
them would have sufficed to feed a dozen of their for a week Kaising my body, till I was on
!
race
my
knees, I took a shot at the nearest, but just as I fired, he sprang forward and I in consequence made a clean
miss, but
as
the
two closed
conical
fired
again and I
believe the
solid
passed through both, for

off.
they separated at once and went
The gaur was
stone dead, and I tried to follow the leopards, but there was very little blood and as they had gone in opposite directions, I left them for the time being,
The shikarie intending to look them up later on. went for men to cut off the head of the gaur, and to
bring
home
the meat which to them would be
godsend.
The giant bull was fully twenty-one hands and the high, greatest breadth of his horns from bend to bend was fifty-seven and a half inches. At 2 P.M., turned with some up, Shoay-Boh, twenty followers,
and,
to
my
great
disgust, with
them a mounted
164

official letter
orderly bearing an
officer,
from the station
staff
saying I must return at once, to take command of a detachment starting next morning for Karennee, some troubles having been reported from that quarter.
had been told the news, so had sent on one pony to Tseben and the other for me to ride. Of course I abused my luck, and anathematised the Karens and the civil authorities generally, who more
My boy
frequently than not made mountains out of molehills, and find mares' nests where none exist still,
;
there was no help for
it,
and go
must, so telling
and retrieve the leopards and to send the gaur's head to Tongho, I went across country under the guidance of a Burman, reaching Tseben, at 2 P.M. and Tongho that evening. On my return, after six weeks' wandering in Karennee (the whole report of an outbreak was false), Shoay-Boh told me he had come
Shoay-Boh
to try
across part of the skeleton of a leopard, not very far
from where
had seen the two, but whether

I
it
was
the remains of one of those
fired at or
not, I
could not say.
My
luck on that trip was certainly
nnexceptionally great.
AFRICAN WILD CATTLE SHOOTING.
On
arriving at
letter
Bonny en
route to the Congo, an
recruiting Haussas emergent up the Niger was handed to me. It was to the effect that he had not sufficient officers to assist him and that unless some more joined him, the whole thing would be a failure, and all the money expended by Now I was far senior to the the Association lost. individual in question, but putting my dignity in my
officer
;
from an
African Buffalo Shooting.
165
pocket I did about the most unwise act of my life, and wrote to the Committee in Brussels, enclosing a
(then Administrator on the Congo) in similar terms, and as a French vessel was to start the next day, and the
captain very kindly offered me a passage, I embarked. The craft was slow, full of cockroaches so full that
to go to sleep below
pilot, a
copy of
L.'s
letter,
and
also
to
General G.
was impossible
and the
so-called
West Indian nigger, knew nothing of the channels, so we grounded frequently, and instead of being five days at the most to Lakoja, we were nine,
had the pleasure of seeing the fine passenger vessel of the Niger Company, which started four days after us, and for which I in my eagerness would not I slept on my trestle cot on deck we wait, pass us. had constant showers and I was more or less wet the whole way. What I should have done for food even, I do not know, had I not fortunately had some of Barrie's Madras currie-paste with me. This condiment would cause even an old shoe to become somewhat less They had a indigestible than it otherwise would be. few chickens and rice on board, and I soon taught the and
I
;
did duty for a cook to prepare me somemore palatable than eternal preserved meats, thing not too fresh of their kind. As we anchored, I saw a launch with the steam up I hastened on board to find that she was about to start for Bida in half an hour, so I hurried back, got my impedimenta and three The scenery in pointers on board, and off we went. the Lower Niger is decidedly flat, but as you ascend
man who
the
banks are
clothed with
the
richest
verdure,
life
Of animal and splendid vegetation lines the shore. are about and storks see little you very egrets
;
66
Habitations are conspicuous by their absence, although occasionally you pass a teh a high platform on four uprights, on which a nigger sits fishing.
all.
and several shots were fired at us from the dense bush as we steamed along. Shortly after, some of H.M.'s gunboats had to go up this river and bombard a couple of the prinWhen about three or four hundred miles cipal towns. from the sea, the nature of the country changes and Flat- top hills also abut high land becomes discerned. on the river, go some ten or fifteen miles inland, then take a sweep and return again to the water, somewhat in shape like a horseshoe. They are all exactly similar the sides are heavily wooded the table-land has clumps of trees here and there, with long grass prevailing. These look as if they had been artificially constructed by some one whose idea of a hill had been derived from German toys made for children. They reminded me of the flat-topped hills on the Godavery, but whilst the latter was the resort of many gaur, the former were the habitat of the buffalo of this part of Africa, which differs in shape entirely from its brother further south, but is equally savage and To repartakes much of the habits of wild cattle. sume my narrative. After steaming an hour up the Niger, leaving the Binnue to our right, we entered a narrow and winding creek, and went up it at a great We saw a few crocodiles. Some were monsters, pace. but the greater part were from twelve feet down to a few inches. I could see no difference between them and the Indian " mugger." We should have arrived at our destination nine miles from Bida the same evening, but did not, so I had to sleep in this vile
hostile,
;
;
The population were then

creek,
167
and be devoured
is
all
night by mosquitoes, and,

;
things have an end, and we reached our landing place the following midday. The overseer (a West Indian, with rather a
what
far worse, sandflies
but
all
pretty wife, more like an Indian than an African) in charge put me up, and sent off a letter for me to the
recruiting officer, requesting him to send down a pony and porters. Money is useless in this part of the
done by barter, the chief thing in demand being salt. This is sewn up in sacks of 100 Ibs., and at times 120 Ibs, and as the men will do nothing, the carriers are women, both young and old.
world
;
everything
is
Everything they carry on their heads, and once a load is placed on a female, her head seems to sink between
her shoulders, and she has to toil nine or ten miles before she can rest, or be relieved, for as every one is similarly loaded they cannot assist each other, as no
single person could
I
lift
such a load
did pity the poor creatures,

it.
and replace it. but there was no help

off
for
About ten next day the pony and porters arrived, and I started for the large town of Bida, 1 the residence
of the principal chief in that part of Africa south of Sacota but as I did not know the way to it I had to
;
go at a walk, as the beast I bestrode

its
"
prayers every few minutes " yahoo I never saw in all my

;
wanted to say such a broken-down
about 2
L.,
P.M.,
I got to Bida life. and received a friendly reception from
the recruiting officer; B., his adjutant; Swede P., and a medica] officer.
;
K., a
The houses
1
are
circular
in
shape,
with
conical,
extinguisher-like roofs,
and are surrounded by walls

Nupe Country.
Capital of the
68
about four feet high, made of mud, which when 1 Bida proper is about onedry is as hard as stone.
and-a-half miles square, rudely fortified, with but four gateways, one in each face. It is densely popusmall stream runs through it, the only water lated.
the people have for drinking yet so filthy are the population in their habits that they use the banks for It is purposes of nature and lave their persons in it
;
!
disgusting to approach the stream ; you have to pick your way to avoid the ordure scattered about, and
the stench
is
dreadful.
die, it
is
other
beast
If a pony, a dog, cat, or left to rot, and were it not
for the vultures,

is
no one could
exist in the place, for it
worse than the interior of the Parsee towers near
Bombay. We had no liquor. Milk we could not obtain, and although about a mile from our dwelling a market was held daily, none of my comrades had
it, so left the catering to a Lagos nigger, did not give us the best of fare. I volunteered to take that duty in hand, so I went to the market
visited
who
the
The walk there was enough next morning. to give one the cholera, so I could account for
the other Europeans not having performed
filth all
it,
for the
round was abominable, with crowds washing in the stream, and that the only water in the place. This river wound so about that I had to wade it
three or four times before reaching the market. The people in this part of Africa have a very large dash of Arab blood in their veins and are strict
Mussulmans.
1
found dozens
of
zebu
cattle
for
When
of his house,
a person dies in Bida, he is buried underneath the floor and the household continue to live in it, all the same.

sale
169
drawn up in line, and all you had to do was to select one. Your choice being made, it was felled at once and its throat cat, and before life was extinct it was half flayed The so many yards of cloth for so much price was a trifle meat I forget now how much it was. I chose two fine humps, had them properly taken off, took two a load tongues, marrow-bones and a fine sirloin which the Lagos man objected to carry, so girls were pressed into my service. I also found an abundance
the
humped oxen
of India
of bringals (egg-plant), eggs, fowls, large
Muscovy
ducks, plantains, ripe and unripe, chilies and other tropical vegetables. As for fruit, there were quantities
mangoes and guavas, and very fine they were of I went back in triumph, for my friends had been starving almost, subsisting on tinned meats in the midst of plenty. The only drawback was that the weather was too hot for keeping meat, and w e had no vessels large enough for salting purposes. None of the others had ever tasted a hump, although L. had been in the army, but his experience
of
their kind.
T
did not extend to luxurious India.

Africa well,
He knew South
and it was he who first conveyed the news of the disaster at Islandwalla to Lord Chelmsford. I had brought a couple of dozen of Madeira wine with me. This did not last long amongst so many, and when expended we had to fall back upon the not over-wholesome waters of the stream. L. had unlimited command of money, and authority to provide what was requisite for the welfare of the Europeans, but he seemed dazed, and had never been the same man I was told, after the gruesome sight of the Zulu carnage. The recruiting was a farce. Any one
70
whether sound, maimed or a "fez" halt, enlisted, given him, and several yards of cloth he was then enrolled and had to report himself once or twice a week. In this way we had
calling himself a Houssa,
was
our books, but when it came to their being ordered to be in readiness to march, I had ventured to nearly every man Jack bolted.
several hundred
differ from L. in his mode of recruiting (which gave dire offence), but I did not like to say much, as he had never risen to a grade higher than that of a lieutenant,
men on
had placed myself in a false position. The deadly nature of the country and the exposure I had undergone coming up told on my constitution, which I had thought impervious to malaria, but in a week I was down with the dread African fever, and all my comrades suffered more or less from the same comfor
I
plaint.
I
had an interview,
first
(very wily, like our the chief. Every matter
with the Prime Minister G.O.M.) and afterwards with
we named was acquiesced
I got permission in verbally, but never fulfilled. to go out shooting, and the doctor accompanied me
to a place about seventeen miles distant, where we shot a few guinea fowls and partridge, but nothingT Every village we saw is so larger w as to be seen. built that the outer walls form a defence, as they are
subject to constant raids by the heathen populace, as distinguished from the orthodox Mussulmans, who
however are not backward in

it
reprisals, so the people,
may
be
said,
live
in a perpetual state of feud,

If a
Cannibals too abound. anarchy, and war. The laws of Bida are very stringent.
man,
woman,
or child steals a goat or a sheep, or in fact
171
anything, he, she or the brat is decapitated, the head hung on a pole, and the body and the object stolen
placed in a conspicuous part of the market. more than one execution has taken place, word
to the cannibals,
When
is
sent
dead, to on the top of the roofs of the sheds, waiting for the surging mass of people to disappear before pouncing
and carry off the the disgust of the vultures who had assembled
in
and they come
down on the corpses. We heard of these cannibals, and L. asked the Premier to send some for us to see, so one day three were ushered in. They wore a kilt of grass and were armed with spears, and looked a I saw sleek, well-grown race, and far from repulsive.
a female afterwards in the market-place, and she was rather comely for an African. Well, our visitors were
told to sit
down and we
discoursed with
them by
means
from
of an interpreter, but we learnt very little of their modus Vivendi. One of them drew something
his packet
and began to nibble it. Our horror may be imagined when we found it to be the charred so they were quickly remains of a human hand
;
ejected, but although they pretended, they did not know they had done anything outre, I feel convinced
it
was an act of bravado. tration more or less from
After a six weeks' prosfever, I was asked to go to
Lakoja, to receive recruits there, and out of the hundreds on our books, we by force obtained only
twenty-three, for all the others had disappeared, and this was the result of an expenditure computed at
eventually got the twenty-three to the Congo, where meeting others of their race from Lagos and the Gold Coast, they became reconciled to their
10,000
We
fate,
and did good
service.
172

is
Lakoja
Niger.
It is situated
the most desirable place I know on the on the right bank on an eminence,
and at the junction of the Binnue with the main river. The best site is occupied by the missionaries of course.
Everywhere in heathen lands I have found these men better housed and better cared for than even Government servants. At the head of the Mission was Archdeacon Johnson, a coloured gentleman, who had
not only received a good education in England, but had travelled considerably, and lived in the Holy Land
for
study Arabic. He was one of nature's gentlemen. Bishop Crowther lived on the bank. He was then old and somewhat infirm, opposite
two years
to
were as much trouble to him as Lot's had been to that patriarch. There was daughters also a European medical officer attached to the
and
his sons
Mission.
With
these exceptions, the others were full-
blooded Africans of a very low type.

is peculiar. Very had been ceded to Great Britain many years ago by the then chief of that part of Africa. We had viceconsuls there, but about the last of them was given to intemperate habits, rode about stark naked on a pony, prodding a man here and a woman there with a spear. Misgoverned as it had been, and misrefor some years, it was still deemed British presented territory, and the King of Bida had never ventured
Now
the history of this place

it
to
put a foot thereon, though his armies skirted it every year to carry war into the interior among the heathen. Nearly every man and woman spoke English. They liked us, and w e got on well with
y
them.
The Arab element much predominated,

little
so
there was very
of the true African to be seen
173
in either the complexions or features of the residents.
The young girls were decidedly well made and comely, and not remarkable for virtue. They had a curious
about amongst their own people their bosoms were covered by the dress they " " wore, something like the loonghie of the Burmese, but when calling upon a European, directly they were
custom.
inside the
When moving
compound and the gate
closed,
they would
the upper portion of their dress, fasten it round the waist, and leave the full bust exposed and
;
turn
down
most of them were remarkably well made and developed.
How
who
tie
unlike
is
this
to their sisters further
south, cords of the breasts to cause

breasts,
strings round the chest to break the
them
girl,
even in an unmarried
fall, drooping being de rigueur,
to
the prevailing fashion. These three-parts Arab girls of Lakoja, glory in busts which in form rival those
of the finest Greek statuary. In Lakoja there were two famous hunters.
One
was getting old and had lost the enthusiasm of his youth, but the other, a fine tall man, more like a " " Beloochie than an African (he was in fact three parts Arab), had been taken to England by Dr. Barth, the great traveller, and there educated, so he understood English perfectly.
most courageous man.

years after I
left
a crack shot, and a I fear some two or three
He was
he revolted against the Niger Company, and was the cause I have heard of the deaths of two British officers in their employ but when I was on the Niger no man could have been
;
more friendly than he
when
to us. I may be mistaken was who he revolted, as very say many Mussulmans bear the same name ; but if he did,
I
I
think
it
74
he was just the man to prove himself a formidable opponent, for he had great influence with the people. Both he and the older shikarie declared that the
unicorn
still
existed in
Bornu and adjacent
states
en route to Lake Chad, but they differed as to the name it went by. The younger man said, when he
served as a soldier with the forces of the Sultan of
Bornu, he had seen one killed, and he called it by a name I have forgotten but the elder man said that
;
was the native name of the oryx, and not of the unicorn. Although they differed in particulars, they insisted that such an animal was still to be found. I had many a talk with both men. The elder said it was not the season for hunting, as the grass had not been burnt. The younger agreed with him, but said if I liked to ascend the high hill which dominates and towers above Lakoja, he would show me some I had not shaken off the fever, antelope and buffalo.
but as
stay in this part of the world would not be protracted, I fixed an early date for our
I
knew
my
excursion
It
and two days afterwards I got up at 4 A.M. was a bright, moonlight night, and reaching Bud;
drodeen's house at 4.30,
we
started to climb the hill
by a
narrow path, by 5 A.M. I was as weak as a half-starved rat, but having once made up my mind I persevered. It took us two hours' real hard
steep,
work to reach the flat surface at the top, and I had a bad fall on the way, barking the whole of the skin off the knuckles of my right hand, which held a heavy
rifle,
from a loose stone under
foot, at a precipitous
bend, giving way, so that in saving my weapon my I was dead beat when we got to the person suffered.
end of our climb, but a halt and a drink of water which

I carried,
175
somewhat revived me. The surface seemed composed of laterite, and in it were depressions where water had existed, but which were now perfectly dry. In the earth which lay over the laterite, there were numerous marks of buffalo and deer hoofs but the animals, owing to the want of water, were not there. Guinea-fowl were in thousands, but there was no getting them, for they flew into trees which grew on a projection, like the berm of a road, about fifty feet below the hill top, which was scarped similar to I could have potted many those on the Godavery. there, but it would have been useless slaughter, for they could not be retrieved, as there was no getting down to where they would have fallen. Once in the trees, these birds showed no signs of fear, and would
;
let
get within easy shot, but on terra Jirma they maintained a distance of fully one hundred yards be-
me
walked about the level surface, peering into patches of long grass, but beyond a small antelope or two, not worth firing at, we saw nothing. Looking to the west and north-west, the country was lovely beautifully wooded and undulating, with Buddrodeen said, a stream meandering through it. " Later on, it would be full of elephants and deer/' and that he had shot many there. Ultimately we There was a sloping made towards the south. shoulder in that direction which led us inland to a tween
us.
;
We
very marshy tract, but to get to it we had to cross a river, which I did on my comrade's back. After
this escapade,
we entered
a savannah,
and soon
hit off
the track of a large herd of wild cattle, for they more resembled them than buffaloes. The game had fed as
they walked along, leaving a very distinct spoor, and
176

lain
had even
down
in pools of
muddy
water.
As we
advanced, the country became denser and the foliage thicker, and eventually we traced them into a thorn
thicket where one could not see a yard ahead, so we had almost to grope along by touch. here separated,
We
but kept not
far apart, for I took
up the
trail of
one
portion of the herd, and he of the other.
My commuch advanced faster than I and in about did, panion a quarter of an hour I heard two shots fired, right
and left, followed by a crashing through the thicket, and not fifteen paces from me rushed past the whole
herd, at least so I thought. grand old bull, in colour resembling a gaur, brought up the rear. I gave him two shots behind the shoulder, and then
hearing Buddrodeen's voice calling, I hurriedly reloaded, and went in the direction I supposed him to
advanced very slowly and soon discovered my guide lying along a bough, and with his hand irriHe was as cool as tating a bull that had treed him.
be.
I
a cucumber, although only just out of reach of the
by stooping forward, he could tickle, as animal's the head, when thrown upwards in were, I had to circle the vain attempt of getting at him.
enemy;
still,
it
round, as only the hindquarters of the game was towards me, and this was not an easy task, as I had no wish to bring down on me the infuriated animal.
several minutes to get into position for The shikarie saw me, and irritated a broadside shot.
So
it
took
me
the bull more and more, even taking off his turban
and flaunting
his attention
it
in his pursuer's face, so as to
draw
off
my approach. the shoulder, but there was no screen near to ward off an attack if the bull charged so I pushed on further
;
from
At
last I could see

till
177
and then gave In an shot. It told, high. instant after, the foe wheeled round and went for the smoke. His head could not have been more than
I
got behind a good sized
tree,
him a
but was a
little
a couple of yards off
when and brought him down on

I
gave him another bullet his knees, and before he

;
could recover,
had reloaded
my
attendant had also
leaped from his coign of vantage, and was advancing, rifle in hand (he had had to drop it to jump into the
but the bull was up in a second, and catching sight of me, rushed for me full pelt, but I stepped behind the tree which he struck with his full force.
tree),
Simultaneously there was a report, for I fired, almost touching the animal on his shoulder at a point close
to the chest.
Buddrodeen
also shot, his
first
ball
tree unpleasantly close to head, but the second broke the beast's spine and over rolled
going into
my
my
our quarry, and was " hal-lal-ed in a jiffey. My now asked me I had fired what I at. companion
"
told him.
"
We
will follow
we went
for the track.
On
him up," he said, and off it there was plenty of
blood and froth scattered about.

disclosed the
Further search but close body, by, sniffing at the blood, was the whole herd. They were not of a uniform colour, like most wild cattle, for there was
an albino and a piebald amongst them, both cows. I " told Buddrodeen that I coveted their skins. Very
good,"
other."
air,
said
he
"
you take one and
I'll
take the
As they were
facing us, their noses in the
snorting and pawing the ground, we expected them upon us any moment, so lost no time in Mine planting steel-tipped conicals in their chests.
fell
at once
the other attempted to advance, but a
178
second shot laid her low.
The herd now thought
discretion the better part of valour, wheeled round and went through the heavy vines and creepers as if
they were so
for following
much
up
Arab friend was pack-thread. I had had enough so the herd, but
My
we
retraced our
way
to the steep path
The descent was worse, if the ascent, and when I got back to the bungalow, I Yet my associate could scarcely move from fatigue. was as lively as a cricket. After a cup of coffee he That was my only departed to bring in the slain. hunt there, for I was laid up again with fever and unable to leave my room for many a day. These buffaloes are the Bos Bracliyceros of naturalists, and " " Mossamades along the Coast, up extend north of the Niger and into the interior to the Lake regions.
had come.
by which we anything, than
CHAPTER
V.
HOG-HUNTING, COMMONLY CALLED PIG-STICKING.

THIS
afford.
is
sport the world can It differs from our national amusement, fox-
probably the
finest
hunting, in
many
respects.
Doubtless
both have
their advocates.
But the generality of fox-hunters
have never had a chance of following " the boar, the mighty boar," spear in hand, over such breakneck
ground as these porcines generally take across in India. " But on the other hand very many " pig-stickers have hunted at home, and I do not think that any of these would hesitate to pronounce in favour of the Indian sport, to running down a puny fox with some
couples of hounds, even if the chase should take them over an enclosed country
fifteen
or twenty
is
such as
counties.
principally met with in English and Irish In India there are very few big jumps ; an
than not go
in
occasional nullah has to be negotiated, but oftener it is too broad to clear, and the horse has to
and
out,
very often a most dangerous proceed-
ing, as the drops are deep and the landing is probably on a slate bed. To overtake a boar, even when he
has not had a long start, a horse has to be pushed to the utmost. The riding must be reckless and generally N 2
80
difficult land, ground which in cold blood you would prefer to walk across on your own legs, than trust to your horse's. Again, there is the rivalry for first a when wounded boar becomes a foe worthy of spear, any man. I know no pluckier brute, nor one who dies so game, for he utters no sound of pain and gives up " the ghost with his face to his enemy. A firm hand he who would aspire to and eagle eye, must possess
over
see the wild boar die."
My
officer
first
this wise.
of
experience of this glorious sport was in was en route to Condapilly to relieve an another regiment, who I may say, par
I
parenthese, had one of the prettiest women in India for a wife. Whilst at Rajahmundry, Tom Prendergast
detachment join a pig-sticking party could go on and I overtake it before it could get to I had a its destination. This I gladly accepted. " chestnut, christened the man-eater," and a very highcaste gray Arab, as fleet as the wind, but so excitable
asked
;
me to
my
that in the hunting-field you could do nothing with him, as he generally threw up his head and ran away.
possessed a golden bay with black points, a Gulf Arab. How I became the owner of a part of
I also
stud was in this way. Whilst at Secunderabad I received much kindness from officers who had known
my
grandparents, my father and mother, and myself as a baby. One of them, who commanded a regiment
my
of irregular cavalry, asked me or two, as he was sending
if I'd like
down
a good horse Nightingale to
purchase a lot of remounts for the regiment, and that buying such a lot at a time, he got them all round
on an average of Es. 400 each. I told him I would like a couple, but that I had only Rs. 500, but would
Hog-hunting.
81
borrow
"
the
balance
from
Bunselol,
the
So wear.
do nothing of the kind," replied the old " kindness from the I received much gentleman.
will
You
general,
your grandfather, in the Mahratta war, and

if
when he commanded the Hyderabad

it
would be odd
contingent, and I could not lend you the money
myself, from that harpy.
in preference to
When
your having to borrow you are rich you can repay
it
it,
won some him I sold Es. and for 1,000, repaid my petty races, the which I might have and other, benefactor, kept sold over and over again for nearly double what I had paid for him. At the time of the meeting, however, he was lame, for I had, like a fool, chased a wolf on him through prickly jungle, and the consequence was that he had to be laid up, and his fetlocks well poulticed. Prendergast always had about a
dozen nags, all Cape horses, with the exception of one, an immense English hunter. They were weightcarriers, for their master stood six feet four in his
stockings and was an immensely powerful one of the best bruisers of his day.
you never do I shall not feel it." One time two horses were sent to me.
but
if
In good
man and
met at daylight near two conical hills about miles from Eajahmundry. All were the guests eight of the Collector, and were regaled right royally. I
here say, these two hills, rising abruptly from a " Bubbies." We had plain, went by the name of the
We
may
several ladies in
for
camp who came
to
whom machans had been built. We and sub-judge of Rajahmundry, C., W.A., of a firm of bankers in Calcutta, Madras and elsewhere ; a ship captain, T., a most eccentric individual, but
look on, and had the judge
82

;
and B., of my own corps, and a few others, about a dozen riders in all. I was stationed with B. in a dry watercourse. The beat had not commenced very long when there was a whoof-whoof, and a boar most unexpectedly broke cover near by. Our horses, unaccustomed to the I was on the sport, spun round on their heels. in the and chestnut, persuaders, I got off on cramming good terms with the hog, a very old fellow with
a right good fellow
C., S.,
splendid tusks. I could hear the clattering of horses' hoofs after me, so pressed mine to the utmost, thinking
to distinguish myself
I
and take
first spear, for
certainly
had a good chance. My mount though vicious was No one near me and the pig fast and a good fencer. not fifty yards ahead, so I raced along and was
rapidly coming
to
close
quarters,
when
the boar
"jinked," and as he did so I endeavoured to spear him over the bridle arm, but the next moment I was floundering over the horse's tail and lit on my head, when I saw more stars than the firmament can show, and this almost opposite the machan on which were I was half stunned, and stationed several ladies. in about attempting to get on my feet and staggered
catch
my
horse.
C. passed
up the pieces, disappeared. my nag the boar was dead.
me and, By the
C.
bidding me pick time I recovered
missed the
first
spear as the boar turned in the bushes
and charged,
though still uninjured. The sub-judge then speared him, and C., an old pig-sticker, finished him off.
I
was, if not the biggest, one of the His height was thirtybiggest boars I ever saw. ivories were splendid. his and inches eight " " Bubbles and a sounder rushed off. then beat the
think he
We
Hog- hunting.
183
Prendergast had begged of me not to ride the gray, and I could have had any of his, but I was
The ground was the very worst of cotton soils, with baubul bushes growing here and there Alone on the the river was about half a mile off. right, and seeing the direction the riders were taking, I cut straight across, and got to the bed of the stream, there a mass of sand. The horse being alone did very well, and as the boar was bounding over the " " a few hundred yards away, and I did deep going
obstinate.
;
not care
if
the
horse
bolted
here
or
not, for
he
would soon be brought up, it was such "ploughing" I let him out. C., S., and I were all pretty close, so we rode the hog through the long grass of one lunkah (island) towards another. There was no water, but depressions pointed where the channels had
existed.
The grass on the second

in
it
island
we
lost sight of the boar.
was very high, and Beyond, all was open.
He had not gone that way, but he could not be found anywhere. In the meanwhile Prendergast and the others killed three, one proving a barren sow.
We
had syces following us with extra

they
separated,
spears.
Sud-
Pundaloo ! yelling out, back. The boar had doubled pundaloo!" (pig! pig')Being the lightest weight and on the fastest horse, I again led the way but the boar had a good start, reached the river-bank, and scrambled up its almost perpendicular side. To follow on horseback was imdenly
;
"
possible, so I galloped along looking for an incline less steep, and at last saw a narrow track, made probably
by
goats.
I
It
was steep and the

spear, so I
soil
very crumbly,
horse,
but
wanted the
rammed my
now
84
pretty well blown, at

falling
and he scrambled up, nearly backwards several times. But there is a little
it,
angel aloft who looks after Griffs as well as sailors. By constant spurring I at last reached the top, to find
C.
and
S. far
ahead, close to the pig, and riding-
The baubul bushes safely past, was still some distance behind, but the boar doubled back and threw out C. and S., so I cut him off, and was once more not above twenty paces behind the
parallel to the river.
I
game.
All this time
we were going
soil,
full pelt
over the
most abominable cotton
and the pig thinking
that he had more than enough of being chased, turned
suddenly and came at me, when I disgracefully missed him, and nearly unhorsed myself by driving the blade of my spear into the ground. The boar was now facing
away from the
where he had before been heading. C. and S. were coming up sideways, I was immediately behind the beast in front there was a belt of
east,
;
horse, hearing the others, got, for the jungle. of hand, and was fairly away with me. out first time,
My
it
Thinking
plain sailing, I did not mind. The hog took the fringe of bushes at a bound, and my horse flew over them, only to topple down at least
was
all
fifteen feet.
Fortunately just there there was a deep^
pool of water, and into this we plunged. I must have cut a complete somersault, and then parted with my Many parts of this river, especially where there nag.
is
swam
water, are very treacherous with quicksands, so I to the bank, where the soil was firm, in prefer-
ence to landing on the lower side. My horse, after he was trembling still a moment, scrambled out lying
;
but uninjured. The boar was now nowhere he had certainly not fallen over the bank, seen to be
all over,
;
Hog-hunting
so
185
close
must have doubled, and keeping

"
lee of the bushes, got
away, for neither C.
under the nor S. saw
him
lived to fight another day." again. It was too hot to go on, so we made for the tents, I
He
S. had got an awful cropper by leading my horse. the loss of a tooth. result his horse coming down
;
:
During breakfast Prendergast pitched into me for " It would make an admirhaving ridden my gray. " or do for a park hack, but able charger," he said, for hunting it was far too excitable, and so dangerous."
here say I sold him soon afterwards to the In the adjutant of a regiment of native infantry.
I
may
afternoon P. put
like a fly
me on
his English
horse.
I felt
where.
on an elephant. I did not admire
We
this
saw pig, but I was noimmense steed. That
evening, after a good dinner, we all retired early to This time we rest, and were awakened at 4.30 A.M.
went up the
river several miles,

I
and beat the
different
small islands.
was on
my
chestnut.
Eiding along
quickly through a piece of long grass, just ahead of me I saw a three-parts-grown boar, listening intently
to the noise
made by the
if
beaters.
He had
either not
he had, he did not seem to care, sp, driving in the spurs, I was instantly almost on the This time I held the spear straight, and top of him.
heard me, or
drew not only first blood, but killed, before any of That day four boars were killed, the others came up. and I fleshed my spear in one, and repelled two
charges
creditably
;
so
at
least
Prendergast
said.
Thus I was at last fairly entered to this glorious sport. The next day we beat a further and isolated hill. I was riding a boar as fast as my horse could lay feet to the ground, when down he went on his head, and
86
spinning along the hard but crumbly soil, on which I lay stunned. The horse scampered off across country and was not recovered for three days, with
sent
me
my
W.
on.
A. picked
I
saddle and bridle (which were nearly new) ruined. me up, put me under a bush, and went
came to in good time, and got back to the and a pretty object I was. The right side of tents, my face was peeled as if it had been flayed, the skin of my eyelids even was gone my eyes were bunged The sores up, my nose swollen to double its size. I did what I thus caused were full of gritty earth. could to wash my injuries clean, and Prendergast
;
tied a cloth soaked in salad oil over
all.
had to ride on the next day to overtake

;
But, alas I my detach!
ment, the Collector kindly posting horses for me as far as Ellore but by the time I got to Condapilly
proud
I was the most disgustingashamed to contemplate. looking object possible I was to meet D. and his wife in such a state I need
flesh
had formed, and
How
not say, but there was no help for
it.
So much for
my
to
essay in hog- sticking. While at Condapilly, the Nugied

first
Eajah sent word
that he was going to have a beat, and would be I had visited him before, glad if I would join him. and knew the country, so sent on two horses for I had
me
bought another by this time from G., the civilian, a splendid Arab and a well-known pig- sticker, in place Four or five other Europeans of the one I had sold. were to be present, but when I got there they had not arrived. So the Kajah proposed to beat an outlying hill. My host was going to shoot pig, and in ridable
I begged him not to, but he Awful ground under various pretences preferred the gun to the
!
!
Hog-hunting.
187
In the spear, yet I stuck to the last-named weapon. took after I broke. boars first beat several one, but
a huge mongrel dog greatly impeded the hog's movements by snapping at his tail, so I soon overtook the
boar,
and now that
had learned the knack, which
is
not to thrust, but to allow the impetus of your horse to drive in your spear, I soon drew blood, passed on,
The boar was quite ready to meet me and turned. I was on my best horse, the half way, and charged. last purchase. He quickened his stride, and the spear enteredatthe game's chest and the point protruded near the tail. The beast was completely spitted, and as I could not draw the weapon, let it go, yet the pig all but cut my horse. The next moment the game brute
ran forward a few yards, then
fine spear-shaf
fc
fell
heavily forward,
breaking my In the evening the Eajah had a nautch for my especial benefit, but I found out that the troupe consisted,
in two.
not of
girls,
but of BOYS
did not consider
of a compliment, for there was no lack of it damsels in the country. The next day K., W., and
S.,
much
of the Engineers, turned
up.
persuaded
S.
and mounted him on my second best nag, but the others would shoot, not spear. The pig were I do not know that I have ever unusually plentiful. seen them so numerous elsewhere, except, perhaps in
to ride,
the churs of
the
Brahmapootra.
!
When
the
first
sounder broke, a volley greeted us, and numerous bullets whistled past our ears The hogs took across
an enclosed country very unusual for India we after them. The fences were stiff, but our horses cleared them in fine style, and that one chase, as far as jumping went, was as good as a hunt in England.
88
Unfortunately, as I singled out the boar of the sounder, and S. took after another, there was no rivalry and no fight for first spear, but both killed after sharp
encounters.
We
long grass. break, but by driving them in the contrary direction, I had the legs of S., we got a few to face the open.
This was
then shifted to another patch of full of hogs, yet they would not
but he took a spear from me cleverly, by waiting by my quarter, and on a pig "jinking," he drove in his persuaders and met him with a thrust through the
shoulder.
I
had four hard runs that day.
In the evening the Rajah invited us to go to Not if we knew it unless the another nautch.
performers were of the right sex, and of that we So six of the wanted ocular demonstration.
youngest and best-looking girls were sent over for I recognised three at once as old our inspection.
known
the others were acquaintances from Condapilly to be residents of Bezwada. Having given each of them a douceur, we attended the nautch but
;
;
a native dance
over and
very stupid, for it is the same thing over again, so is monotonous to a degree,
is
and were it not that the so-called dancers (a better term would be extortionists) are generally good-looking and remarkably well made, I don't think many men would care to see the performance more than once. When these girls are ornamented and dressed up to within an inch of their lives, they look well, but the songs they chant are shrill and ear-splitting. Of course
they pretend to be very modest, almost as much so as Clementina Clemens, the Yankee girl, who would not walk in the garden because potatoes had eyes, and she
did not wear drawers
!
Hog- hunting.
189
On
one occasion,
I
before the anicut or
just dawn.
I
was riding across the Kistnah, It was saw an old boar feeding, and laid into him.
I
dam had been constructed.
got out of the river bed, for there quicksands were more plentiful than firm ground. When on the bank
I
saw that
if I
had not more than a
clear mile before

ivories, I
me, so
wished to possess myself of the
must go the pace. My horse went like the wind, for he delighted in a hunt, but fast as we went, the boar went as fast thus, unless I brought him to bay within
;
the
lost.
next few hundred yards or so, he would be A boar appears to be proud of his " credentials,"
carries
and
in a prominent position in the rear, so a prick there generally suffices to put his dander up, and then he thinks more of fighting than of r horse seemed to realise the running aw ay.
them
My
I did, for I never knew him to go so The jungle was not more than a hundred yards off. Piggy grunted and tossed his tail about, thinking no doubt he would be safe in a few moments but my mount bounded forward, I held the spear by the very end of the shaft, and stooping well forward,
position as well as
fast.
almost lying on
horse's neck, I managed to prick in the part I have indicated. Although he was then within ten yards of shelter, he spun round, and
my
him
had great
difficulty in
avoiding a
collision,
but
my
horse
jumped
clean over
him and from being the

I led the
chaser I became the chased.

for the further
angry beast on,
we got away from the jungle the

for him.
worse
it
would be
He
chased
me more
than
150 yards and then, pretty well blown, he pulled up, champing his tusks, and looking a very demon. I
galloped round and got between
him and
his refuge,
90
the time, but only turned round OD a pivot, so as ever to present his front. When I had a clear thirty yards run, I gave the horse the
all
he eying
me
he required no spurs and as I charged, the .boar, with every bristle in his mane on end and with many a savage grunt, came at me with a series of
reins
ludicrous bounds.
as I
could scarcely help laughing, but
had no second spear, my syce being nowhere in sight, I had to be cautious, so aimed at the point of The weapon went in and through him, the shoulder. coming out a good foot on the right side. I was
forced to let the spear go savage prod he made at
;
the plucky brute missing a my horse, and then for the

!
second time chased me, trussed like a fowl I just then caught sight of my horsekeeper, and galloped off The boar had stopped his pursuit and was to him.
attempting to draw the spear with his teeth. While so engaged I got hold of the spare weapon and renewed the fight. It was not easy to close, for the
shaft that transfixed
him swayed
to
and
fro,
one end
But being leaded and the other as sharp as a razor. the difficulty was further increased as the boar was
of fight, and invariably rushed to meet me. For some time I could do little more than prod him, but not liking so one-sided a game, the foe managed to
still full
rose to spring over him, the horizontal spear-shaft caught him in the fore feet, and he went an awful cropper. I fell clear but still held on to
rush in.
My mount
my new my
weapon. The horse I was afraid was injured I was considerably shaken, as he did not rise at once. still quite calm, so seeing the boar bearing down on
prostrate nag I interposed, and received him on Exhausted as was the hog, he drove me the point.
Hog- hunting.
91
back several paces, but I quickly withdrew the blade and stabbed him several times. Although all but liors de combat, the plucky brute made a feint at me, then
I sprang aside, and went for the horse's quarter. gave him a good dig in the ribs as he did so, but he
just
managed
to reach
my
noble quadruped and to
inflict, I
thankful to say, but a superficial cut, the marks of which, however, he bore to his dying day. This rough treatment invigorated the horse, who at
am
once sprang up and saluted the boar with both heels, In a moment sending the foe a perfect somersault. after I was on to him, and drove my blade from the back of the head into the spine, and then the grizzly boar laid
down
his
life.
Get only the best blades for spears. There was no one formerly who could compete with Arnachillum of
Salem in their manufacture, but he is dead and his sons do not carry on his business, preferring to fight for (and will eventually lose in law expenses) the
wealth the old
in the
man had
workshop at
was assured that Dawlaishwarum, the Government

amassed.
I
armourers could turn out weapons equal to, if not I had half-a-dozen made superior, to the Salem ones.
speared with one of them, fortunately broke the beast's back. Withdrawing the in to vain drive it in again. weapon, I endeavoured
for
me.
The
first
hog
No wonder
would not penetrate the point had curled up So C. of my regiment had to come to the rescue and kill the boar for me.
that
it
!
at
Leaving Condapilly at five in the evening, I arrived Masulipatam by seven next morning. I put up with a friend who was to be one of our party, and
his mess, so enjoyed
became an honorary member of
192
immensely my two days' stay in Bunda, for I had been on solitary outpost work for more than six months, during which I had not seen a European to speak to. Tents and camp equipage were sent on before us, and we followed a couple of days later.
Our party
tion
consisted of eight.
I shall call
them
A.,
B., C., D., E., F., G.,
and H.
To reach our
destina-
to ride out about eight or nine miles, then to cross over a tidal stream by means of ferryboats, thence by a fair unmetalled road to Umsul-
we had
Our tents were pitched in a grove of mango as soon as our ablutions were completed and trees, we were told that dinner was ready. After that meal succeeded grog, and a few songs and anecdotes of Our captain, D., then tells off the various sport. riders, and what time we are to mount our nags, to " boot and saddle," after which we retire the call of Soon all are to our tents, two of us being in each. we until are unconscious and awakened, after, as asleep,
davy.
appears to us, but a very brief repose, by the repeated " our dressing boy Sar, sar, tea is ready." " " To shake off dull sloth and early rise is no hardit
cries of
take our cup of tea, chocoship to old Indians. late, or cocoa, as it pleases us, pour some half a dozen chatties (pots) of cold water over our heads, and feel
like giants refreshed,
We
then don our hunting costume,

it
none of the best or newest, as service and meet at the mess tent.
has seen
much
lost
;
No
time
is
the syces (grooms) are waiting with our horses and various spears, principally made by that prince
of cutlers, old Arnachillum of Salem.
Girths
are
tightened, spurs adjusted, and we mount, speculating on the sport we shall come across during the day.
Hog- hunting.
Our
;
;
193
with him are E., F., captain, D., leads the way Gr. they are to precede us by half an hour and to endeavour to cut off " sounders" of pigs returning to
from their feeding grounds on the are either in the wild indigo or in which sea-shore, long grass, to be found in the deserted beds of dry,
their
day
retreat,
unused tanks.
We, on the other hand,
are to try
and
and would return

in
cut off such swine as have been inland after grain, for their siesta to divers swamps
the
;
vicinity.
nothing
Our party is unlucky, we see D. and his comrades come across a but
it is still
sounder, lay on, although
so dark that hard
riding is dangerous, and after a short spurt two boars are numbered amidst the slain. They remain about a
mile to our
left,
we near the bund
of a tank, into
which we send some

the game.
in their
Our
fifty coolies to beat or drive out porcine friends have not settled down
miry beds, so at the first sound of torn toms, cholera horns, and other discordant noises, six or seven pigs break, and we are saluted with a cry " " of Pundaloo (pigs), and see some dark objects
!
scampering over the plain. I had made the great mistake of keeping my best horse rather too fresh, and although he bounded off
with the lead and maintained
separated the boar from was such that he kept over-shooting the mark as the hog "jinked" either to the right or left. This enabled C., who was mounted on a strong, steady, but somewhat slow Cape horse, to keep up with me. Had A. and B. left us after the rest of the sounder. the boar gone straight away I would have killed him long before C. could have got near me but the un;
easily until I had the sounder, his eagerness

it
194
clean animal, finding

in circles,
my
Arab too
fast for him, ran
and
this enabled C. to cut off corners.
For
a good quarter of an hour both were pressing for the first spear, neither having any advantage. We
were riding in grass about three feet high, with clumps somewhat higher here and there in one of
;
" these I lost sight of the boar. Where has he gone " I cried, as, twisting at the bridle with both hands, to ?
until he "
my horse round. C. did not say a word was some lengths ahead, when, exclaiming Here he is," prodded downwards. I was alongside in a moment and thrust my spear well into the boar's back, who was playing 'possum in the long grass. This
I
brought
started the beast, with
owing
to a
gun
accident
me after him. My comrade, many years before, had lost a

;
couple of fingers off his right hand, and could not grasp the spear firmly thus it slipped out of his
hand and he had to dismount to recover it so I was The boar did not run far, but spun round alone. suddenly and charged direct, gnashing his teeth and uttering a short "whoof, whoof;" he was a large
;
animal, and, with every
bristle
riz."
on end, looked a
I
monster; "his dander was
kept the spear
steadily pointed at the boar's chest, such force that I was carried from
croup of the horse, not the tough bamboo shaft splintered into pieces. At length I seized the tree of the saddle, and as the
and we met with the my seat on to " and should have been "spilt had
horse pulled up of his own accord I scrambled back The boar, after running forward a into the pigskin.
my weapon had passed through his heart. Dismounting, I admired his proportions, and as he had but two wounds, both
fell
few yards,
heavily forward dead, for
Hog-hunting.
inflicted
195
by myself,
lie
was mine.
My
companion, in
his anxiety to get the first spear, had missed, and driven his blade well into the ground, where he found
syce running up with fresh spears, I was soon astride again, and had ridden but a few yards when I went for him, but a another boar got up. nasty marsh was close at hand, and in a few seconds I was
it.
floundering in the mire and had to give up the chase, whilst the boar, with a series of bounds, got through
the difficulty and escaped. Rej oining C. we rode back and found that A. and B. were still following their
,
game, which, though severely wounded, doubled back and received a spear from us both but these we could not withdraw, so waited for fresh ones. A. and B. then delivered theirs, and they, too, remained in the
;
boar
What
this
Here was
a plucky brute a wild pig is, to be sure. poor animal charging us all round, look-
ing like a monstrous porcupine, with the four spears
Soon we were armed standing upright in his body within to but spearing distance was the get again,
!
difficulty, for
was not indolent

could
with every bound our foe gave and he the shafts spun about like the arms
of a windmill, and, as they were heavily leaded they inflict severe blows, so we were some time
dodging him and them. But at last spear after spear was driven home, and our gallant antagonist gave up the ghost without once uttering either a groan or a Thus dies the wild boar ever silent to cry of pain.
the bitter end, and almost invariably with his face to the foe.
D.,
K,
F.,
and G. now rode up.

off,
four boars, and, as
They had killed our horses were blown, we rode

where our breakfast
o 2
quietly to a tope about a mile
196

laid out.
was
Every
requisite that could be desired
Tables and chairs were placed under the shade of some mango trees, on which the fruit was
had.
we
already ripening
many
to their branches were suspended bottles enveloped in thick jackets, which were
;
kept constantly wet to cool their welcome contents,

the table were
On consisting of beer, claret, sauterne, and hock. all the delicacies of the season, whilst,
cooking-places, odours of various stews, curries, and other compounds, which
from
the
extemporised
only the natives of India, and especially Madrassies, know how to concoct, gratefully assailed our nostrils.
A little
distance off were ranged numerous chatties, or earthenware pots, full of cool water, and soon we were stripped and pouring their contents over our
heads.
Our ablutions being

"
over,
and
"
the
head
servant reporting
ready),
appetite,
we
fell
Hazarie tyar hie (Breakfast is the proverbial hunter's to, with
and whilst satisfying the wants of nature,
Our meal finished, fought our battles over again. we indulged in the fragrant weed, and while some
read, others lolled
on the
soft turf
;
under the grateful
shade and courted Somnus
for
we knew
that the
porcine tribe object to taking to the open during the heat of the day, but prefer either the thick cover, or
the mudpools in which they delight to wallow. As I will comrades are siesta their describe my taking
briefly the plains of
Umsuldavy.
To the
east
Point Davey the west, a vast plain, covered either by wild indigo, longish grass, or bare paddy fields, which, in a few
the sea, the lighthouse at False being about three or four miles off; to
is
months
after the setting in of the
monsoon,
will
be
Hog- h M ntmg.
197
ploughed up and yield a golden harvest. At present these are as hard as brick-bats, and are divided into
various sized squares by tiny dams, which retain the To the north water during the time of cultivation.
the same, except that topes of trees occur, with more or less of undergrowth, in which occasionally a sounder of pigs is
is
and south the country
much
found.
ride
The country, although

full or
flat,
is
not easy to
sea,
over, for it is intersected
by arms of the
which are either

of the tides.
Many
empty according to the state of these are too wide to jump,

through, owing to the
built
and impossible
turf bridges
or
to scramble
ooze in their bottoms.
Thus wherever
are across
dams
practicable, them as a
temporary measure, for these will be swept away by the first heavy flood. White flags denoted the sites of these most necessary "rights of way." The
pigs cared nothing for the armlets of the sea, as they can wade, half swimming, through liquid mud, in which a heavier body would sink out of sight. But
there are other creeks always full of water, too broad to bridge, and if once a pig plunges into one of them, he is safe for that day, as there is no
following him.
and very apt
The indigo, too, is high and matted, to bring a horse down. There are also
marshes, almost quagmires, through which no horse can go. So, though to the eye the vast maidan
looks easy to gallop over,
I
all is
not plain
sailing, as
have shown above

soil
is
but
ground
ton
in Central India,
so prevalent.
it is easy compared to where the abominable cot-
This
is
a kind of friable
black earth, with innumerable deep cracks covering its surface, over which the hog-hunter has to gallop at full
98
speed. Frightful accidents are therefore frequently met with. Even the best fox-hunters, fresh from
home, are at
first
incredulous
;
that
is
traverse such land

after a while a
but use
will
any horse can second nature, and

it
man
go over
as fast as his
Let a lay legs to the ground. dozen men start together, say, on the best Arabs, which are the surest-footed of all the nags I know,
gallant
mount can
and ride hard for first spear, at least one-third will come to grief before they have gone a mile. There is seldom jumping, as at home, but many of our blind nullahs are not to be despised, and require a hunter which can clear from fifteen to eighteen feet. For pig-sticking your mount should be not only
speedy but tractable
is
;
the former without the latter
entirely
unsuited.
hog
will
turn or double
like a hare, so a
them.
At
headstrong animal is useless after times cactus hedges and scind-bunds
(date palms planted closely together) are met with, and have to be cleared. Then you require a clean
Take it all in all, and I have tried every jumper. kind of sport in the world, nothing approaches this
princely pleasure, for in
it
there
is
good fellowship,
spear, a dangerous foe to contend with, and, every variety of ground to ride over, and as the old song before alluded to says
emulation for
first
Youth's daring spirit, manhood's fire, A firm hand and eagle eye, doth he require Who would aspire to see the wild boar die.
But
self.
to return to our fascinating subject.
About
spears
3 P.M., the bugle sounds, and every Horses are saddled, girths tightened,
man
rouses him-
Hog- hunting.
seen
to,
199
and we are soon away in search of our game. we go towards the lighthouse and separate into four parties, A. and I together, E. with B., C. Our syces follow with with F., and D. with G. extra spears. I was on my country-bred, and A. on The others were variously a clever Mahratta pony.
This time
mounted, D.'s horses being the best, if I my gray, which was out and out the
meet.
may
except
this
star at
advanced in skirmishing order, riding two and two at intervals of about half a mile, our nags plunging through the indigo, which was very thick
We
and high. Two sounders broke almost simultaneously, one on the extreme right, and one in front of A. and Ours consisted of a fat old boar, almost myself. with gray age, a three-parts grown hog, and some The boar half-a-dozen sows with a few squeakers. to the left, and my comrade and I followed turned The remainder took towards E. and B., who him. laid into them, whilst C. and F. and D. and G.
followed the
other
sounder.
knew my
friend
would prevent him going far. Moreover, he was making towards the sea. A. and I were fairly I was on matched, and we raced neck and neck. the spear side, A. on the other, close together, Fat as the boar was, he craning for first blood.
managed to keep out of reach of our weapons for some time, when, getting blown, he doubled on us "so suddenly that, though my spear struck him in the shoulder, he tripped up A.'s horse, which came down
a "cropper." Before the poor animal could recover his legs, the boar ran in and gashed him dreadfully.
I told
A. to
jump up behind me, which he

the
syces
for
did, so
both
rode
back towards
spear.
2oo
Seizing one, and leaving my friend to find another A.'s pony lay stretched out in steed, I galloped back.
its last sleep,
and the slayer, disdaining flight, stood, his When I tusks, awaiting charge. champing was within twenty yards he rushed at me with a
my
series
spear unicorn.
queer.
absurd bounds, the broken shaft of the protruding from him like the horn of a
of
I
My
could not help laughing he looked so horse swerved at these unusual tactics
;
and such an uncanny appearance,

slight
so I inflicted but a
it
wound
however, the effect of
was, that the
brute turned round swiftly and chased me. Keeping out of harm's way I made a detour and again went
at
him.
He met me
so
pluckily that
we
closed
with a crash.
My spear went right through him, entering at the back and protruding through the bowels, so I was fain to let go the shaft, my horse only escaping being cut by a sudden bound to the The boar pulled up, eying me viciously. left. Fortunately A. was remounted and galloping up, followed by some syces with extra weapons. Having
secured one of them,
clean beast.
we both
closed with the unto the end,
Our antagonist was game
fighting desperately until he turned over and expired. He was rolling in fat, with tusks nine and a half
inches round the curve.
Sending for coolies to take him to the camp, A. and I rode towards the others. E. and B. had killed the young boar, E/s horse having been slightly cut. C. and F., D. and G. had
killed
two boars and a barren sow. The latter had run up the spear and bitten G. severely in the right
foot,
We
then adjourned to ground nearer the camp,
Hog- hunting.
2o i
and sent in some forty beaters to drive a sounder This time D. and A., out of the dry bed of a tank. Gr. and E., F. and I, and C. and B. were together, stationed two and two on each side of the cover. At first the pigs would not break, which was wise of them, for all round was open paddy fields, and the The head nearest cover a mile and a half away. man of the beaters now came up to us, and said, " Feeders of the poor, we have beaten through and through several times, and though there are many
pigs,
they will not leave."
"Kattle
off the
it
through the
;
other way,"
we
replied,
and
man went
and,
with tom-toms beating, cholera horns sounding, and the most discordant yells, they reversed the experi-
ment.
make
The pigs evidently did not know what to and first one and then another took it, towards where D. and A. and G. and E. were stationed, and both were quickly accounted for. More yells and unearthly noises, then another boar broke We were nearly a mile off, but near D. and A. could see the various chases as well as if we had but to remain been engaged in them ourselves and no so with prospect of any game quiescent long, coming to us, was too trying so, seeing that D. and A. were both pumped and riding gingerly,
of
;
;
while
fresh having procured reon mounts, I being my famous gray I voted we should cut in and have a try for a spear. It looked almost hopeless, for D. and A. were the two best riders and most experienced pig-stickers amongst us
we were
quite
but,
"nothing venture, nothing win,"
so,
taking our
cut across country diagonally. I was overhauling D., who was taking matters very
steeds in hand,
we
2O2
coolly,
when, without looking round to see who was " It's no use, A., galloping up to him, he called out,
I
It may be," I replied, have the legs of you." "but you have not the legs of me," and passed him,
"
spearing the boar three times before anyone else came C. was soon on hand, but his Cape horse, which up. had behaved so admirably in the morning, would
not approach a pig nowT and when forcibly reminded by the spurs that he had a rider on his back, plunged
,
and kicked so violently that he sent his owner over head right in front of the boar, who made at him immediately but we were all close up, and, rushing
his
;
in,
"
As the plucky beast over, dead. shades of evening were falling fast," we made for
rolled
the
our camp, a good five miles
off.
How pleasant every-
thing looked. Our mess tent brilliantly lighted up with numerous wax candles, a snowy cloth on the
We plenty of plate, crockery-ware and glass. lost no time in taking off our hunting suits, and, after a most refreshing bath were en deshabille in our
table,
white sleeping garments, consisting of loose jackets and drawers. Had the famous Glunter supplied our
refreshments, he could not have done better than the mess cook and butler of the gallant- -Kegiment. There were haunches of spotted deer (shot by a
shikarie), capon, ducks, fowls,
ham, and that great

,
delicacy, a Bengal hump, besides soups, entries, curry, made of fresh prawns, with tarts, puddings, &c. for we
live well in India,
even when under canvas.
Of liquor
we had from champagne downwards, all deliciously After dinner we assembled in the cooled in saltpetre.
open, to
;
enjoy the cool
moon and
air. There was a bright the only drawback to this truly Arcadian
Hog- hunting.
203
scene were the mosquitoes, which provokingly took "Early to bed advantage of our being in undress.
cultivated amongst sportsmen in the East, so ten o'clock found us in our cots, our bearers having tucked in the mosquito
rise
is
and early to
"
maxim
curtains around each sahib to ensure
him having a
good
night's rest.
the poor natives manage. have little or no bed clothes On such excursions they and with them. tidying after we retired Cleaning up occupy them hours, yet by 4 A.M. the whole camp was astir, with kettles bubbling, ham being grilled,
It is difficult to say
how
hasty snack followed, and half an hour after we were ready to start,
;
eggs boiled or poached. roused at five dressed.
At
half-past four
we were
which in the East is just about daybreak. To-day E. and L, F. and A., G. and C., and B. and D. were told off together. We went due west, crossing the bad watercourses by means of the E. was on rather bridges I have before mentioned. an old, but powerful hunter, I on my Mahratta We came across a spotted deer, and foolishly pony. We certainly had a splendid run. The chased it. watercourses we encountered were not too broad to jump, and we cleared them nearly together, whilst the deer, some fifty yards ahead, sprang over them our horses were in tip-top condition, beautifully both of us light weights, but for an hour the deer Our mounts were now panting, kept straight. although going strong but we knew the pace was too good to last long, and were therefore glad to see the buck swerving from its direct course, and in another quarter of an hour it was trying to
;
2O4
throw us out
haunches, for
but we stuck by doubling we were determined not to be

;
to
its
beaten.
Our beasts began to stumble, and to show signs that they could not last many more minutes, when the pursued lay suddenly down. We, too, pulled the and girths turning our horses' up, undoing
heads towards the breeze, which was blowing steadily from the sea. In fact, all were "pumped." The
deer, with its
tongue
;
lolling out,
its
breathed with the

large eyes were as scarcely to be
greatest
filled
difficulty
tears,
beautiful
with
and
so
dimmed
while we, its mortal foes, stood over it spear All the agonies of death over and over in hand.
visible,
must have suffered, for it could hope for no those who had hunted it so hard and from mercy What our infast, and all but broken its heart. know. We I don't tentions were thought the
again
it
deer unable to rise again, so were waiting

syces to
it alive,
for
our
or
say I
We might then have captured come up. we might have converted it into venison. do not know what its fate might have been
;
but,
before
we decided upon anything,

into the
the deer
sprang to
at
us,
its feet,
and with one reproachful glance
plunged
us, like
arm
"
of the sea close

It
by,
was lamenting." leaving not we had if that even done so suddenly time, we had had the intention, of using our weapons but I am glad now that the noble creature escaped, though I must own I was very sorry at the time. Such are man's inconsistencies, before and after and
;
Lord Ullin
during the ardour of the chase. No real sportsman would be guilty of an act of cruelty in cold blood. Yet, when his passions are aroused, he is little
Hog-hunting.
better, if at
all,
205
is
than the wild beast to which he
opposed.
steeds were utterly done up, so we sent them to camp, and ordered other nags to be brought, for
Our
we resolved to remain where we were. now joined us, having followed and lost
jheel close
;
F.
and A.
a boar in a
by in consequence, it was determined that he should be driven out as soon as the beaters
could be assembled.
It was getting late when we The cover and horses the coolies approaching. espied was rather extensive, and the boar would not break
;
yet rode
the beast had cut one of the

in,
beaters,
so
we
keeping
line
with
the
men.
Presently
away went F. and A. through the long grass to the right, and we were undecided whether we should he was follow, when we espied a boar looking at us all but hidden by the stems which had fallen down, and under which he had crawled, but his long snout
;
and twinkling
getting
shelter,
little
to his
vicious eyes betrayed him, so, right, to cut him off from heavier
I
suppose our appearance was not very intimidating, for he simply trotted ahead, The cover was so occasionally looking back at us.
laid on.
we
dense that our progress was not great, but
it
was
fast
enough to keep him from dodging or giving us the slip in the undergrowth, so perforce he had to take across the open. The beast had been lying in some mud hole, for he was plastered with a thick coating of
slime
that
shone
brilliantly
as
he moved ahead.
After covering a lot of ground we got close enough to spear him. I was on the country-bred, as near almost as E. to the pig, when he " jinked" to the
right,
and E. struck him over the
bridle reins,
but
206
such was the impetus that the boar knocked the foreand both came legs of the chestnut from under him,
The horse galloped away, heavily to the ground. and as the foe continued his course, I kept up the chase. There was nothing unusual in the size or
appearance of the boar
agreeable odour.
;
but he emitted a most
dis-
To
this I attribute the country-bred's
behaviour, for he refused to close, and, when pressed, I lost my temper, and felled him kicked and reared.
with a blow between the ears from the loaded butt-
had no intention of flooring my mount, and ought not have struck him as I did, so what followed I thoroughly deserved. Seeing us on The nag was quicker the ground, the boar charged.
end of
my
spear.
rushed
on his legs than myself, but, instead of running away, open-mouthed at the enemy, who cleverly avoided the attack, and got between the horse's legs, ripping his stomach from the chest to the pelvis, the
whole entrails dropping to the ground. The boar eyed his victim for a moment, but seeing him motionless,
turned his attention to me.
I
jumped
aside, so avoid-
ing the rush, and gave

side as he passed by.
my assailant
a deep stab in the

as
turned again, time I held the spear firmly pointed for his chest. The monster ran up the steel, bearing me down with How can his weight, and fell on me, dead Faugh I describe the agonies I suffered, not only from the
! !
Badly wounded and once more rushed
he was, he at me. This
weight of the animal, for my chest and ribs felt as if they were being staved in, but from the abominable The smell from a stench that his carcase emitted.
boar
when
clean
is
bad enough, but

filth,
this brute
had
been rolling in some awful
and, being covered
Hog- hunting.
with
it
207
full benefit as
from head to
worse
feet, I
got the
the
he
lay across me.

frightfully,
I kicked, I struggled,
and
I fear
swore
than
fighting
chaplain in
frigate,
Peter
Simple when boarding the Eussian
but release myself of the load I could not. I have no doubt but that I should have died of the dead weight and the vile odours combined, had not E. come to
my
Alone he was power! ess to relieve me but, fortunately, more aid was at hand. A couple of syces
help.
; ;
!
they seized the brute by the hind legs, joined us while E. got hold of the front, and with a heave ho I was a mass of they succeeded in rescuing me. gore
my appearance was so comical, to say the least of it, that E. burst out laughing, and I, very unreasonably, got " awfully riled," and was about to give vent to my feelings when I noticed a broad grin on the countenfilth
and
from head to
foot.
As
I sat up,
ance of the usually sedate natives. My wrath was dissipated, for I knew that I must be a rum-looking
object indeed, for them to so far forget their respect so I joined in the as to laugh at a sahib logue but a I bad "tat" fear, merriment, with, grace.
;
being brought, I transferred the saddle and bridle from the dead horse on to its back and galloped
boy, I quickly threw off my stinking garments, which were ordered to be burnt forthwith. After a good scrubbing I got
calling
home, and
my
"
"
maty
something to
eat,
and mounting
to join the others, who were they had killed three boars
still
gray went off I found that and two sows. One
my
out.
horse had been severely cut in the stifle and another had spiked himself badly. So pigsticking has its
dangers, as well as pleasant phases.
My
comrades
2o8
were assembled round one of the topes, which I have mentioned as having rather thick undergrowth, and into this the beaters were sent. After a great
deal of hullabalooing, several pigs broke, and G., C., B. and D. took after them. were 011 the other
We
and did not know they had started until it was too late to The drivers now join them. declared that there were no more beasts in the tope, and we were thinking of shifting our ground, when
side of
it,
A. espied something creeping along a hollow ditch, " What is that " overgrown partially by wild indigo.
!
he asked, and I, turning in the direction, also saw something move.
"It
is
not a pig.
it,
us drive
Let suspect it is a wild cat. and have a chase," he said. No sooner

I
said than done.
We
galloped
among
the bushes
where the animal was last seen, and, to our amazement, not a cat, but a splendid leopard bounded out
in our front,
not pleased at our intrusion, as the
its tail The superior speed of proved. horse me the my gave advantage, and I was soon alongside, and delivered my spear through its body,
whisking of
but as
turned sharply to the left, the brute gave a spring and clawed my gray, who in return gave it a A. vigorous kick in the head and rolled it over.
I
came promptly up and the brute made

horse
at
him
his
shied, but the rider turned the game by a dexterous thrust in the face. It then charged F., who missed it as it sprang on the horse, which it
seized
round
throat, whilst its fore legs were clasped its neck ; so the horse came down a frightful
by the
cropper, sending F. flying. E. and I. sent our spears through the beast. This caused the leopard to release
Spearing a Leopard.
209
the horse, when it bounded at E. who received it on the spear, but as it passed through, the The horse brute got in and seized him by the arm.
well
plunged and kicked so that I could not get near, still I could hear the bones in my comrade's arm give. At last the nag reared right over, and all rolled on the
My mount, too, became to the rescue. went The restive, so jumping feline lay under the horse, and I had no difficulty in E. was frightfully mauled, and despatching it. his arm. The horse broke its back, lost eventually and had to be shot, but F. was not seriously hurt. We bound up E.'s arm, made a stretcher as well as we could, and sent him off post haste to Bunda. G., C., B., and D. killed two more pigs, but as all our nags were done up, with the exception of my grey and one of D.'s, and owing to the sad accident to our
ground, a confused mass.
off, I
comrade,
we determined
to
break
up the meet.
Accordingly, early next morning the tents were struck. The kit had been packed up over night, and
by 10
A.M.
we were
seated at breakfast in the mess
house of the hospitable

ten days' more leave,
I
Native Infantry.
Having
purchased D.'s horse, and
daked up to Eajahmundry, had some capital pigsticking with that prince of Collectors,
Tom
Prendergast.
What
reader, I
have attempted to describe will give the hope, a faint idea of this glorious sport, but
reality.
no description can ever come up to the
A SPURT AFTER PIG IN THE BURHAMPOOTER CHURS.

W., the Deputy-Commissioner of the Garrow Hills, and I had been shooting for a few days in the churs
p
2io
below Doobree, and as pigs were very numerous, my friend proposed that we should try a little hog-huntNeither of us was well equipped for such a ing. I had a couple of Burma ponies, but no spears. sport.
W. had
a country-bred mare and a pair of hog-spears such as are used in Bengal these are barely six feet
;
long, heavily weighted at the butt end, for "jobbing," whilst those in vogue in
and are used Bombay and
Madras are much longer and are for "prodding." The Commissioner had had a little pig-sticking with some friends of his in Tirhoot, and it was years since I had ridden a boar, and, alas I had put on flesh, and the largest of my nags was only 13 '2, but strong and plucky; the other, a gray, was about 13, speedy
!
but violent.
still
Neither were
up
to
my
weight for
the temptation to follow a boar was too hunting, great to be resisted, so we determined first to try the
mainland on the right bank, where we had disturbed many a thundering big fellow lying out almost in the The country was the very thing for riding, open.
being nearly flat, pretty open, and full of not only also rhinoceros and pig, but there were tigers about
;
marsh-deer.
Hedges
a
or
ditches there were
none,
but
dry watercourse, with sloping and down banks, up which it was easy going, was
occasionally
encountered.
mahouts was directed where to take the elephants (we had ten with us) at daybreak next morning, and to beat in a certain direction. We were hunting under difficulties, for we had no but spare spears, and were inadequately mounted there is a charm in hog-hunting which is impossible " " to resist, if you have once been entered to it. W.
of the
;
The jemadar
Hog- hunt ing.
1 1
was an out-and-out sportsman, plucky to a degree, a splendid shot, a good rider, and considerably under He weighed about thirty, while I was over forty. His mare was close on fifteen ten stone, I twelve. had her after pig. he ridden Mine had and hands, had no such experience, and was a hand and a half In a lower, so the handicapping was all against me. straight run I should have been nowhere, but in hoghunting even the slowest of horses has now and then
a chance, particularly
I
when the pig
is
a "jinker."
was tired of eternally being on the back Moreover, of an elephant, and welcomed the chance of a gallop, even should I not be able to draw first blood. To be early at work, we crossed over from the right to the left bank of the river over night, sleeping in an unused cattle-shed, so we were up and away by the dawn. The jemadar, on a small elephant, was waiting for us, and so receiving his orders off he went, and in about half an hour we could see the line of W. was ensconced bebeaters advancing towards us. hind a patch of long grass on the right, I was similarly concealed a little to the left, with an interval of about fifty feet between us, having previously arranged that we were only to follow boars, and to let them " laid in," so as pass us and get well ahead before we to prevent their breaking back. The terrain, though not quite a plain, was ridable for fully three miles but these pigs carry an immense quantity of flesh, as
;
their feeding-grounds are close by, so they were not The mahouts were instructed to likely to run far.
shout only when a boar broke, otherwise to advance In less than a quarter of an hour there was silently. a hubbub all along the line, the mahouts shouting and
p 2
prodding their elephants, they trying to break back,
and showing every sign of being in a stew. first thought they had been attacked by a
slight rustle,
We
at
tiger, so
were watching the beaters, when there occurred a
and some fifteen or sixteen pigs apthem go fully a couple of hundred peared. " " I was just about Ride yards, when W. shouted to ram in the spurs, when I looked backwards once more, and there, trotting along quietly, yet champing his tusks, was a gray old boar. Half the fun of hog-
We
let
hunting
is
the rivalry for
first
spear
but as
said
before, I had little chance with W. in a straight run. The pigs that had gone away were fair of their kind, with two large boars, but the one that brought up the Thus I restrained my rear was a veritable Goliath. impatient steed, who, generally placid enough, had lots of pluck in him, but excited by W.'s cry, and seeing his mare go off at best speed, naturally wanted to
be also in the fun.

the time the veteran passed me, W. was half a mile away, so I allowed the quarry a hundred yards'
By
and then started in pursuit. " Pekoe was very fresh and spurted along, pulling double. Hearing a clatter behind him, the game looked round, and seemed half inclined to meet me, then changed his mind and increased his pace. The boar was very fat, and with his bristles on end looked nearly as big as my mount nor did he seem to hurry himself, but it
law,
;
"
how a beast of his kind can get over the after him for nearly a quarter of a raced ground. mile gaining a little, it is true, yet he was still fifty
is
wonderful
I
yards ahead.
There was a patch of grass in front, into which he bounded, and I was in it also in a
Hog-hunting.
second
rather
or
213
two
after,
bothered
me.
but carrying a jobbing spear I had seen Dansey, of our
30th, use one, so following the lesson that he taught
me, fortunately
did
I was ready for action, although I not expect to come upon the pig for another but no sooner was couple of hundred yards or so
;
a gray mass almost sprang at Mechanically jobbed, and drove in the spurs the spear just missed the spine, but went well into
I in
the grass than
me.
the neck behind the immense head, and

I
luckily as
;
bounded forward the spear came away

missed
a
"
thus the
at
boar just
vicious prod he
made
my
pony's quarter, old beast with a
but nothing
whoof,
daunted, the gallant I whoof," chased us.
went easy until we got to an open space, then put on the steam, wheeled round, and went at my adverHe had been bleeding " like a pig," sary again. as the saying goes, so I fancy some small artery must have been severed, and this had weakened him, for though he met me in the most plucky manner, there was less and less impulse in his charges.
downward job, I drove the spear into his withers, yet with an upward jerk he deep cut the sole of boot right through, his enormous
Ultimately, with a
my
The pony and I were, as a result, sent spinning, but the boar was hors de combat, and neither of us were more than shaken.
head catching us amidship.
found afterwards that his tusk, after penetrating the thick leather, had cut my sock and just grazed
(I
Picking up the pieces and withdrawing the good blade, I remounted, in time to see W. coming towards me in full chase, so I
the
skin
of
my
foot.)
hastened to meet him.
He had
apparently a large
214

;
was evidently wounded, so I reined up until the two were alongside, and then
it
boar before him
joined in the race. "Why, W.," I sung out, "this u is not a boar." But look at the tusks," retorted my
comrade.
"
I
"
Yes, I see
them
it
is
a barren sow."
have killed a boar and have wounded her, so we must put her out of pain, but I thought most certainly that she was a boar too, or I would not have followed her." Just then she "jinked." comrade's
My
mare, rather hard-mouthed, did not turn as quickly as she ought to have done, so allowed me to cut in. " " Pekoe was not a bit alarmed, notwithstanding his
upset, and took me up nicely, so I gave her a good weapon dig in the ribs, but could not withdraw
my
so
to let it go. moment or two, but it
had
W. was
alongside of
me
in a
was no easy matter
for either
of us to get near the brute to administer the coup de grdce, for the heavily-leaded shaft kept upright, swaying about, and with a "job spear" you have to
get to close quarters before you can use your weapon. W. tried to cut in several times, but once he got a
blow across the shins from the shaft of my weapon which made him sing out, and I much doubt that we should have secured her, had she not rushed through a bush and got rid of the spear, when W. went up Fortunately my alongside and finished the melee. spear was not broken, the handle or shaft of a Bengal weapon being so much shorter, thicker, and tougher
than those of the longer weapons. I forgot to mention that we had sent on our guns and rifles, as there was no knowing what game might
be started.
close to us,
So telling the bearers to keep pretty we rode on to meet the elephants. The
Hog-hunting.
jemadar told us that the confusion at the commencement was caused by a large boar, almost white, which had charged the line and had cut one of the I had no difficulty in recognising my elephants.
veteran friend as the culprit. We then shifted our position, and I mounted the
" gray called Elgin," then proceeded towards the Garrow Hills. The ground was not nearly so
favourable for our sport, as there was a quantity of
few pig broke back through long grass standing. the line of beating elephants, when there was a great deal of trumpeting on their part, and a huddling of
them
"
together, a signal unmistakable to the initiated. It is a tiger," cried friend, and dismounting we
my
seized our
rifles, and each advanced towards a couple of rising knolls on which we took our stand. I saw W. turn round to his left and fire a roar then
another shot.
wicked a head as
it is
ran forward, just in time to see as possible to conceive not above
a yard from comrade, who was ramming in a of couple cartridges, the man with his extra weapon " having vamoosed." I got a clear shot at her chest
my
the conical, a solid one, went right through her, but she required another shot from me and one from W.
before she gave
up the
!
ghost.
"
We
expected no more
game
to appear, but the
men pointed towards the river,

!
calling out,
ing, off
So, mount(Pig, pig). I have before in hand. galloped, spears said there was a good deal of unburnt grass about. " "
"
Soor
soor
we
always headstrong, and seeing the country-bred ahead, he tore along, and I found I had no control over him, but that did not much signify,
Elgin
for I thought it
was
was
all
plain sailing.
It
was a
clear

I
" Master " Elgin " " go. Galloping through a patch of long grass Elgin went heels over head I was sent spinning and I heard no end of grunting and squealing. The pony
mile or more to the chur, and
let
had struck
his fore feet
against a sow in her lair

;
surrounded by her young, and had come a cropper no harm was done. I was up again, but W. had no end of a start. I was glad to see the sounder had
taken a turn to the right so by cutting across I might almost head them. Wild pig sows in particular;
form a sort of covered-in nest they bite the grass all round, pile it up, and then crawl under, and by lifting it up in the centre, they have a fair roof overhead
;
and remain during the heat of It was over one of these that I had come to the day. I got up to the sounder there was only one grief. was him and W. too to to enable me to close boar, cut in although his mare was somewhat blown, whilst " Elgin," notwithstanding his tumble, was very fresh. There is no certainty in hog-hunting; hog when " jink," and I hoped this one would too, pressed often and in my favour, so I kept about ten paces to the
in this they litter
;
right, Elgin" holding his own in speed. lifted his arm to drop the spear down, up,
"
W. crept when over
A creeper had caught his mare across the " and the two went a " buster but no time was to legs be lost. A sloping bank leading down to a navigable part of the river was close at hand, and however
he went.
;
much domestic
pigs
may
ones are adepts at it, and best place to take a pig with a jobbing spear is the centre of the withers, but I could not get alongside
to deliver that stroke.
object to swimming, wild take to water freely. The
We
were descending the bank,
Hog-hunting.
so I did the best I could,
011
217
and dropped heavilythe to croup, between the hip weighted weapon Over the pig went. bones, which I could just reach.
my
turned
my
prostrate
pony sharp round he sprang over the body which was rolling down the incline,
;
and
the
I just
avoided taking a header into the river, on
opposite bank of which was an enormous crocodile ! The pig's back was broken, and he was all
endeavoured to drag him to shore, but our joint strength was not sufficient, as we had no firm foothold, and letting the body go, we ran up
but drowned.
the bank to call for assistance from our gun-bearers. heard a snort, and turning round had the pleasure
We
We
of seeing a knob at the end of a snout project, seize the still struggling boar, and carry him off to the It was the alligator (these are slimy depths below
!
so called in India, but they are veritable crocodiles, same as those found on the Nile). We stood there, rifle in hand, hoping the beast would rise, but where he went to I don't know, for we never saw him or his prey again. It was now getting hot and we saw no W. rode on and I went prospect of any more sport. back towards the elephants, the gun-bearers, with mine and W.'s guns, accompanying me. I had not " " ridden half way, when there was a shout of Geddha I was off my nag and seized the first (rhinoceros). I could gun get hold of it was a double 8 bore when a cow rhinoceros accompanied by a of W.'s As she passed three-parts-grown youngster came up.
!
me, not
fifteen
yards
off,
saluted
contents of both the barrels.
her with the " Just then " Elgin
broke loose, the wounded pachyderm got a sight of him, and off she went in chase of the pony, and I

I
had changed the 8 bore for my own The youngster galloped on straight ahead. It *577. took me over half an hour to come up with the rhinoceros and to kill her. I then had to walk home, " " for Elgin was not recovered till late in the afternoon. When I reached camp I found W. had speared
after her.
coming past mere spree he His horse at first objected to the uncouth laid in. beast, especially to its squealing, but W. was a determined rider and getting alongside drove the spear in behind the shoulder not jobbing, but prodding and he was astonished at the ease with which the blade penetrated. Just then the rhinoceros uttered such diabolical noises that caused the mare to rear and become unmanageable. W. had to let go the The antics spear and so become a helpless spectator. of the stricken rhinoceros he declared were most
juvenile
!
the
Seeing
the
animal
for a
him and having no gun handy,
he capered, he shook himself, he sprang from side to side, roaring blue murder the whole
grotesque
while
;
the shaft of the spear swaying about like the arms of a windmill, and W. was thinking of riding back for a rifle to put the poor beast out of pain,
;
when the pachyderm went an awful crusher on to its wounded side and drove the spear home till it promore squeals and gasps, then its spirit fled. It had been tripped up by a creeper, and W. could say, what I believe no other man could boast, that he had fairly ridden down and When the spear was extracted speared a rhinoceros.
truded out of the chest
;
a few
we found
and
the shaft, though not broken, splintered useless, so we had to give up all idea of hog-hunt-
ing for the present. Before the next season came round
Hog-hunting.
I
219
was en route
to India.
killed
by
a tiger.
" Poor " Pekoe had been W. was transferred from the hills
which he did not live to fill long. His death was most painful and inexplicable. He was the most rising man in the Assam Commission, and peace be to his ashes, for a better fellow never The old boar was I think, the largest, lived. W. and I certainly the most massive, I ever saw\ is no It differed as to its height. easy task to
to a better post,
measure accurately a dead beast I made him out 38|- inches, but W. declared he was nearer 40 than 39. The one he speared was all but 37. The sow was 36 the other boar taken by the crocodile was never measured of course, and thus ended my hog-hunting
; ;
in the
Burhampooter Churs.
CHAPTER
VI.
BEARS (ASIATIC).
IN Burma, we have two varieties of bear, the Ursus In Euryspilus, or sun bear, and the V. Malayanus.
Assam the
and
U.
in
U. Tibietanus. the
In India the U. Labiatus

the Cashmere, &c., howls a wounded bear
Himalaya,
Isabellinus.
The
pitiful
makes
are sufficient to shake the nerve of even an
experienced sportsman, to say nothing of the novice, but if a man only keeps cool and waits patiently,
the attack of a bear, formidable brute as he is, is not greatly to be dreaded, for before closing, the
beast always exposes the horseshoe on his breast, and a shot there at once proves fatal. Why, I do not know, but the objective point of attack is almost
To get at it the bear has to invariably a man's face. stand up, and then there should be no difficulty in 1 do not use shells usually, but accounting for him.
In Assam for bear shooting they are very effective. more people are killed by bears than by tigers. I
have seen some poor fellows completely scalped, the

In the East, the skin hanging down over their faces. bears are generally shot on foot, but in Assam, I
have come upon them and
slain
them, when on
Bears (Asiatic]
"
22
I
hattees"
who
disliked
them more than

in
did tigers.
varieties
Although are very plentiful they are seldom seen and therefore but seldom shot. They have glossy skins with short smooth hair, muzzle blackish, but face, mouth, and lower jaw a dirty white throat,
Burma
bears of
think they the two
named
and large heart-shaped white mark in the U. Malayanus, and a chestnut one in the smaller The head is flattened and very short ears species. very small, smooth and round. It is very powerful, but somewhat less than the Indian variety. They have immense claws for their size. When a youngster I obtained a month's leave, and had been shooting with various success, but as luck would have it, one day I lost my way by attempting to take a short cut, got benighted and slept in the ruins of a village which had been deserted on account of man-eating tigers, and not without great difficulty at last reached Mulkapore, where cholera was raging
black
;
at the time.
servants urged was tired and refused to budge.
My
me
In
to go on, but I
fact, cholera is
so prevalent in India, one gets used to it, and as longas you are not afraid of it, and don't think about it,
you run
famous
a
it
or no danger of infection. I engaged the best shikarie, and he promised to show me a

little
full
At the time there was was up and away by 3 A.M., being necessary to take up our position close to
locality for bears.
I
moon, and
the bears' dens before daylight, as these beasts feed all night and return to their homes at dawn.
We
had a long distance to go, but at last, about 5 A.M., when it began to drizzle with rain, we got to the caves and crept almost into them, to keep ourselves
222

dry.
and guns
scout
As soon
was descended and gave the welcome news that three of I had a the ursce were coming straight up the hill. To avoid a miss-fire, I ascerdouble rifle and gun. tained that the powder was well up the nipples, put on fresh caps, and got behind a rock at the edge of
a
who
as objects could be seen a perched on a high conical rock
Very soon three platform, and awaited events. black balls, as it were, came at a shamble, and funny objects they looked, moving along with a rolling
gait,
every
now and then pouncing upon
beetle
and halting to gobble

to this
it up. This in its wild state. genus
was my introduction
My
shikarie carried
Having waited until the spare gun, I the rifle. Such a leader was within twenty paces, I let fly. hubbub as ensued then is indescribable. The first
my
bear
upon the second, and the two upon the third, and they all set to work to maul one another in the most approved style. I fired my second barrel at the struggling mass, and the shikarie fired both barrels and took to his heels. The bears left off fighting and came for me, but I was young and active, and more than an average runner, so I had no difficulty in distancing and dodging them amongst the rocks. Before I could reload, they had got into their dens. I lost little time in getting hold of the shikarie and gave him a good drubbing for having fired off my To smoke out the beasts I tried, but did spare gun. not succeed, so lost them for the time being. But two days afterwards one was found dead, and about a week later on, another was mobbed by some
fell
Bringarees and also killed.
then shot a couple at

intervals,
Narkapilly, and occasionally at considerable
Bears
I
(Asiatic].
223
In Assam I killed several. shot one here and there In the Cossyah and Jyntiah hills I also killed a few. I was charged once or twice by bears, but was
neither mauled myself nor were
hurt.
any of
my
followers
But my own adventures with these beasts are tame compared to the following adventure of a very
friend.
Towards the end of April, 1849, Colonel, then Lieutenant, Nightingale, of the Nizam's Irregular Cavalry, one of the best sportsmen that ever lived, started
for the
Neermal jungles, and Douglas Scott, of my He was the only man regiment, accompanied him.
I
ever heard of
who made
"
"
bear-spearing
a regular
have doubtlessly been occasionally speared by others, but only in isolated and rare cases. In the first place, they are seldom met with in ridable ground, and in the second, not one horse out
pursuit.
Bears
of fifty will face them. I will continue the narrative in Nightingale's own words. " Scott could not get leave just then, but followed
On April 25th I reached small a Polumpilly, village near which good shootI went out to the hills, a mile ting is to be had.
a
few days after me.
distant, to look for a tigress said to live after a long walk, having found nothing
there,
but
more than
fresh prints in the sand, I gave it up, and commenced to throw crackers into various dens without success.
rest,
Suddenly, however, when we were sitting down to out rushed two bears from a hiding-place and
off
made
with
such
swiftness
that
they
escaped
unscathed.
Eeached Hurroolah to-day. There is a rocky range half way between this and the last stage,
"28th.
224
in

a villager said lots of bears were to be In the evening I went to the hill east of the
which
found.
camp, posted the

patiently
tents, I
till
men on
dusk.
the heights, and waited Just as I was returning to the

all
heard Meer Saib, my orderly, whistle. On running up, two bears were shown me. I cut them off
from their dens, and shot the female dead with a twoounce ball through the head. A good-sized cub that was with her was also secured after a great deal of roaring and a free fight, in the course of which two
of
my men
got rather severely bitten, owing to their
own
stupidity.
Eeturned to camp, as
it
was now
It appears that five bears were afoot at once, dark. but the other three, hearing the uproar, made off. Out this morning, long before dawn, but "29th.
got nothing.
koonta, as
In the afternoon
rode over to Torla-
my
shikaries informed
me
that bears were
which the village and towards dusk a my markers, large bear that lived under one of the bastions came
plentiful in a small rocky hill near
was
built.
Posted
out.
ran after him with
my
rifle,
but as he took to
'
the open I preferred spearing him. Mounting Dicky' 1 I was after him in a minute, but the knowing brute, when he saw that I was overtaking him, made back
for the hill
;
however, I met him at

his body.
full
my
spear through of the horse, but I pushed him over, unluckily being broken in the struggle.
He
tried
speed and sent to lay hold

the weapon
Bruin now
let loose,
I
got upon the rocks,
but
my
dogs being
brought him
1
to bay,
when, dismounting,
clambered
Dicky was a galloway, barely fourteen hands
high.
He
was
rather head-strong, but out of all the horses Nightingale possessed, he was the only one he could depend upon to take him up to a
bear.
Bears
(Asiatic].
225
him and sent a two-ounce ball through, him. He rushed on and was met by Meer Saib, who fired and missed. This turned the beast back towards Notme, when I greeted him with another bullet.
up
close
to
withstanding this severe punishment he reached his den, where he afterwards gave up the ghost.
"
30th.
the
Went out early this morning, and posted markers as usual on the rocks. A couple of
hyaenas were seen, and as it was then broad daylight, thinking there was no chance of any nobler
game, I gave chase to one of them. Suddenly, however, hearing a cry from my shikaries, I returned and found three bears running towards the rocks.
This proved to be a well-known family, that had been here for the last five years and together had destroyed two men (at least so the villagers said)
during that interval.

distant.
I cut
on which they made for The ground here was most
them off from the rocks, some hills about half a mile
(
break-neck/
there being large sloping slabs of stone, with loose rocks upon them. However, I managed to drive
but at one place they turned and In another half roared at me, as if about to attack.
this,
them over
mile
or
so, I
caught them up
in
tolerably
open
ground, and riding in upon them gave the rearmost one a severe wound. The whole three then charged
Dicky saved the wounded a and beast me, spear through giving the lungs which proved mortal very soon, I made The off, pursued by all three, roaring furiously. wounded animal soon lagged behind, and my shikaries kept throwing stones and mobbing him, until he fell over and expired from loss of blood. On coming to
me, but the handiness of
my
horse
'
'
226
a favourable bit of ground, I turned on my foes, and wounded one badly. They still kept together, and made one or two determined rushes at me, when having both received severe hurts, one of them made off as hard as he could. I stuck to the other, and after a hard fight, and spearing him some half-a-dozen
and
times, I at last sent the steel right through his heart rolled him over dead. There was but one
antagonist now left, which proved to be the largest of the three and very fierce. He rushed at me most
furiously every time I approached him, and in so doing he received twelve or more severe wounds. At
although quite exhausted from the length of the conflict, seeing that bruin had very little further to run to reach his den, I rode in front of him, charged, and planted my spear well in him. The bear, howlast,
ever, proved too strong for me, tired as I was, and making good his charge, threw himself on the horse's
the inside of the thigh with his claws, and took my leg in his mouth I stuck it the was to horse, knowing my only chance, firmly
crupper, seizing
!
me by
and hoping bruin would soon be shaken
'
'
off.
Dicky
effect.
behaved splendidly, kicking with considerable
At last, however, the infuriated brute, by sheer weight and strength, dragged me off on to the ground. The
bear even then did not let
foot.
me
go,
but got hold of
my
me
As
expected him every instant to seize

I
by and
the back,
made
a vigorous struggle to escape,
to my delight and surprise, my long samburskin boot came off my leg and remained with the bear, who took no further notice of me, but ran off
towards his den worrying the boot as he went. " dander was riz " at this mauling, so picking up
My
my
Bears
{Asiatic).
227
spear, I ran after bruin and drove it through and through him. He seized it in his mouth and turned
on me, but just then most opportunely another spear was thrust into my hand, and I ran it several times into his chest and at last made an end of my savage foe My escape was most providential, I having got off with only three slight wounds, two on the instep and a deep scratch on the thigh this soon became very painful, so I imagine the claws are somewhat venomous. My three troopers, with most of my shikaries and lots of villagers, were close at hand while I was being mauled, and afforded me no assistThe former ance, owing probably to their surprise.
!
said that they could not get their horses up to the This would appear to be the case, as throughbear.
out the whole trip not one of the horsemen with me drew blood from a bear, and most of these men were
plucky enough.
One
of the under
tusks of this
formidable brute was buried in the heel of
my
boot,
and the other caught the stirrup. The upper tusks went through the boot and some little way into my
instep in a slanting direction, so I got off better than could be expected, and was only lame for ten or fifteen
days.
I
Though very sore from
my
bites, the
next day
could not remain idle in the tents, so early in the bear was seen morning I went up to the rocks.
sleeping on the top of them, but heard us, and escaped We had just thrown in a cracker, when into a cave. I fired another bear was seen quietly going past us.
my
his
' (which I christened Wapping Poll ') and the animal ran into a clump of rocks about
heavy
rifle
He presently put his head out of seventy yards off. den and looked at me in a most idiotic way I
!
'
228
sent a ball from
my
other
gun
into the centre of his
by another from a smaller rifle. These were more than sufficient for bruin, who died
forehead, followed up
incontinently.
In the afternoon
village called Letchmapooram. banyan tree under which I pitched
went to a small Here there was a nice

I
my tent.
A little
full
way
off there
was an extensive range of rocks
Wednesday. I was out early this morning. At daybreak two bears came past my tent, and made for the hills. Hearing the preconcerted signal I mounted Punch,' took the two-ouncer, and galloped after them. I saw a bear climbing up the rocks after I had gone some way through thorny jungle, so dismounted, and hobbled up to the foot of the hill. Bruin was just a shot a when I at him and den snap entering got rolled him over dead with a single bullet. This was a large male. In the evening I went to the small I was climbing up the hill, west of the conical one. rocks (the markers had not even been posted), when I saw two bears emerge from a den. I followed them almost within five paces, soon came upon them, up and and gave the larger the contents of Wapping Poll/ which smashed his shoulder. Down he rolled and I put another ball into him, after which the coolies and dogs finished him. The other bear received a two-ounce ball as he rushed past me. I then knocked
'
of caves. "
'
him over with another shot as I thought dead. Then I descended the hill; but the second brute
managed
to crawl into a den,
and
I lost
him.
My
bull-terrier
behaved very pluckily to-day, rushing at this bear and pinning him by the throat, but he was knocked off at once, and had a very narrow escape.
Bears
"
(Asiatic].
'
229
This night I was roused by the cries of Reench' so mounted Dicky and rode about in the moonlight,
'
'
without, however, viewing bruin doubtless driven him off. " Went out this
the
yells
had
May
3rd.
morning
to the Litch-
mapooram Hill after daybreak. A signal shot was fired by a marker, and a bear pointed out. As she was
on tolerably ridable ground and had a good-sized cub with her, I determined to kill her mounted, although I rode 'butcher fashion,' i.e., with only
one spur,
I
injured foot being encased in a slipper. soon caught her up and speared her through the
my
shoulders.
I
She then pulled up, looking very sick. rode at her again, and received two vigorous
The second time we met, I broke her spine charges. The cub with a thrust, and she gave up the ghost.
rushed at
my
shikarie,
but after some trouble, with
Tried the the help of the small dogs, was secured. The small hill in the evening, but found nothing.
next day I rode over to Torlakoonta early and waited near the hill only hyaenas were seen. In the evening, a she-bear and two cubs were viewed, but she was too knowing and would not descend the
;
hill.
"
The next morning
posted the markers as usual.
One
of them, Murza, gave a false alarm, and drew me away from the right spot, just as two bears were approaching the hill from the Sind-bund. I, however,
got back just in time to cut them off from the rocks, I caught one up .and rode them through the bund.
in a bit of
open ground and speared him. Unluckily the spear-blade broke in a bone and I had no second
left.
weapon
therefore galloped to the
hill,
seized
230
gun, intercepted bruin en route to his den, and sent a heavy ball through him, and eventually finished The other bear escaped the troopers pressed him.
my
him too
hard, so he doubled back and got to his den I might have bagged both before I could reach him.
I
not been drawn away by the false alarm, for they broke cover exactly where I had taken my stand.
animals had
'
On May
in the
6th
moved
tope.
to Purkeer,
and pitched
camp
which
there,
hill
mango
Went
to the Black Hill,
lies east
saw
of the village, and soon after arriving I followed him upa bear walking about.
up,,
towards his den, and when about half way

off,
there sat bruin, about eighty yards
me
Fired
my
two-ouncer at him,
looking at and the ball,

pieces.
entering his right eye, shattered his
head to
He
dead, without a groan even, at the very He proved to be a large male. entrance of his den. After this I sent Akbur Ali to the top of the hill,
fell
where he saw six or seven bears in the bushes. I came upon two more of these animals while walkinground the place, but could not get a shot. I remained on the watch, trying to circumvent them in the moonlight, but I did not succeed, owing to the rocks which shadowed the ground on every side, although I heard the objects of my search growling, so must have been I got back to the huts at 9 P.M. close to them. " The next day I went to the hills west of Purkeer.
Towards daylight, I rode quietly on to Trooper's Hill (as I have called this clump of rocks), and had just reached it, when a large bear was seen by the markers. He fought I gave chase and soon speared him. gallantly, but after a furious combat and several fine
Bears
charges,
lie
fell.
(Asiatic].
231
clogs
At
this
moment, one of the
came up, and going too close to the dying bear was He had an extraordinary escape, seized by the head. but was much mauled. After driving my spear again and again into the bear, the disabled beast let the dogAs soon as the This was an enormous animal. go. was old brute over, a cry of fight with this grand
arose from the markers, so taking a male and fresh spear I rushed after the view.
'
Bears
bears
'
I went for female appeared making for the rocks. the latter, one being the bigger of the two, and as she kept on charging me I must have killed her, had
horse become unaccountably violent and unmanageable, so that I could not turn him when
not
my
consequence was that the bear, though desperately wounded, reached her den, where we afterwards heard her crying as if in her death
necessary.
I
The
Much disgusted at the turn affairs had taken agony. faced round and engaged the other brute, who was
Several
fighting the dogs and chasing them about. deadly thrusts terminated the struggle.
61
Kode
to the Black Hill this morning.
couple
of bears appeared, but retreated to their dens as soon as they saw us. waited patiently till dusk but
We
though
several
more were viewed, none would leave
the rocks until just as we were going away, when the two that had tantalised us so last night, descended.
I
went
for them.
they quietly
Though they must have seen me pursued the even tenor of their way/
r
'
permitting me to approach within ten yards. I hit the male with a ball from my heavy rifle, on which a
fight ensued
between the two.
had charged
my
However, just as I gun, they perceived me, and roaring
232
furiously,
On the a most determined charge. foremost bear coming up, I shot him through the
made
on which they both turned off. The dogs were let loose, and brought the wounded beast to bay, which gave me time to run up to within three paces
chest,
and
I
through the maimed brute's head. also wounded the second one grievously, but in the
to
put a
ball
dusk, she got into a den and escaped.
"May
7th.
Went
at
dawn
to
Trooper's
'
Eock.
A large bear was seen coming across the plain towards the hill. After a sharp run of half a mile on Dicky,' I came up with him and sent the spear with so good an aim through the heart that he fell dead. A very fine male was then seen, a long way off, and I went but Dicky began his pranks and was to meet him so violent that he ran away with me, and I broke my pet spear over his head before bringing him to sub'
' ;
jection.
Taking
I
another
spear
soon
overtook
bruin,
*
whom
instanter.'
to
make
wounded and by whom I was charged After wounding him again, as he turned a fresh charge, I drove the blade clean
;
through his heart he staggered a pace or two and then fell dead. This splendid bear would probably have escaped, had I not had my shikaries posted
on the
barking of the dogs kept him from his sanctuary until I was able to get Dicky into a proper frame of mind.
'
'
rocks,
for
their
shouts
and the
"
Went
to Black Hill in the morning,
saw no
bears,
but speared a couple of hyaenas.
Out early to the Black Hill. Came on Tuesday. a bear while riding along, but the orderly with the rifle was so taken aback at the sight that he failed
' '
"
Bears
to
(Asiatic].
233
hand me the weapon, and the game got off. Meer In the evening I went to the Saib saw three others. same hill. At dusk, a large grey bear came down, and on our pursuing, stood at bay between two rocks, so that to reach him I had to ride up this narrow The dogs passage where there was no room to turn. were barking at him, but no sooner did I approach
him, than he charged with such fury as to break
my
spear (a portion of which remained in him) and knock over my horse 'Punch.' How both escaped, I know
not, as the bear, after flooring us, was actually close Darkness terminated the enough to be touched.
fracas with the loss of our quarry.
Douglas Scott
joined to-day.
on
Wednesday. Out early to Trooper's Eock. Scott Punch.' Hardly had we arrived when a bear was viewed we gave chase and after a short run I speared
*
"
the unfortunate beast through the heart, but she still went on, so I gave another thrust, when she subsided.
In the evening
"
10th.
we saw two
bears,
but did not get
either a shot, or a chase.
Out
bear was shown us.

cub)
early to Trooper's Eock. On arrival a She (for it was a female with a

I
charged
me when
came near
;
her,
and was
speared through behind the shoulder but my spear bent and became useless, so I had to get another, and
two more gallant charges, I slew her. The cub was also secured. Soon after, another bear was but off before we could come up with signalled, got him. In the afternoon we went to Armoor, distant two miles. Here there are plenty of bears in the immense range of rocks, but it is difficult to get at them. We tried a hill with two toddy trees on it,
after
234
which we christened Palmyra Hill. We here heard of a large brown bear, said to be very fierce, but we could not find him, and saw no game, though the markers on the rocks did. The ground is ridable round this hill. "llth. Armoor. Tried Palmyra Hill, but saw In the evening went to Purkeer Black Hill. nothing. Scott saw a sounder of hog, which* he lost after a long run. I also saw another but failed to get on terms with them.
'
'
"
12th.
;
Tried Trooper's Hill this
morning.
it
No
much
bears
" "
but we saw a hyaena and killed
after
dodging and a severe run.

13th. 14th.
Moved camp
Out very
to Balconda, seven miles.

;
but the game was earlier, early and had got to its den. Sent a shikarie to look at a He reports it blank. large hill. " Moved to Doodgam, ten miles. " Pitched camp on the river bank and passed a
cool quiet night. " 16th. To Neermul,
ten
miles.
Bivouacked
in
where
it
is
said
all
tope kinds
about two
of wild
miles
Road good. beyond

come.
beasts
Went in the evening to some rocks near at hand. Saw indications of panthers and bears. The former
are dreadful scourges to the people, and in this very place this night a man was dragged out of his hut by
one of those beasts and eaten close to his own threshold. "
This appears to be a
common
event here. 1
syces, sentries
At night
horses,
a tiger got past the

far
fires,
and
1
and not
from our beds and servants,
It
was near here I had niy adventure with man-eating
panthers, a year afterwards, as related further on.
Bears
(Asiatic].
235
into camp, when one of dogs barked, and all the people, without knowing why, set up a most
my
This, fortunately, so alarmed the I intruder that in a couple of bounds he was off.
demoniacal
yell.
failed to get a shot.

lie
found by his footsteps that must have been prowling about us half the night.
17th.
We
Did not go out to-day. Picketed sheep, dressed up as men, in the hopes of enticing a mana very artful dodge suggested by the Cotwal eater it did not answer, and indeed appeared to keep only
the tigers
disturbed. " 18th.
"
away from our camp,
for
we were not
To Burgaon, six miles. Road bad, water bad, camping ground bad, no shelter, small village. Looked for hog but saw none. Heard of the fight with Rohillas. Poor Bosworth killed and a lot of
men.
"19th. To Apparowpett, ten miles. Road fair, but there are some bad nullahs to cross, running
through dense jungle
much
;
infested
by
tigers.
The
bullocks attached to Scott's hackery were driven to frenzy at the sight of one while those carrying packs,
and bolted into the jungle, so my friend's impedimenta was strewn in every direction. My bullocks and horses were also much alarmed at another place, and no sooner had the camp been pitched than a panther was found in the middle of it.
threw
off their loads,
This being fired at by a Daffadar, it made off. is a good sized village, but so haunted by tigers that no one will stir out except in broad daylight. Four
bullocks had been killed
On
by them a few days before We moved our arrival near where our camp is. to Seonee, seven and a half miles.
236
"
Moved camp
village.
We
again in the afternoon to a deserted took the left of the road, via the tank,
and
I saw an antelope, which I missed. Scott got three shots at Neilghie and floored a fine bull, but he got up and I finished him off with a spear, which
saw a bear, but did not kill. Just as it was getting dark, the guide announced that he did not know where we were This was nice, considering the jungle was full of man-eaters, and that we were not aware which way to turn I at last took a " " a massaul course and tree, we tore northerly finding off a large part of its bark of which we made torches,
broke in the
scuffle.
and by
had.
their light
pushed our way through thorns,
and jungle, with not a drop of water to be all done up, so made up our minds to bivouac for the night, when, to my delight and surprise, I hit on the road near Dounra, a deserted Scott, village, and only two miles from our camp. who had taken a line of his own, lost his horse. He saw lots of game, and got to camp soon after we did. There is a nullah with good water near Seonee, but supplies have to be brought from long distances. " 20th. Moved to Burra Koompty, five miles. " To Wurhona. twelve miles. 21st. " From the 22nd of May to 2nd June we wandered over the country, had shots at gaur, near Singie, but got none. On the 2nd we returned to Neermul again.
grass, bushes
We
were
"3rd June. To Ghur-Chunda, eighteen miles. Road pretty good at first, but very rough towards
the end
lived,
;
we were
Bears small watercourse. supplies good of a ruined fort in bastion the told,
;
close to the village, and from never being molested, went to look roamed about in broad daylight
!
We
Bears
(Asiatic].
237
at the place in the evening, and soon saw a couple near their den we waited behind the rocks to let
;
While doing so, a large bear was seen quietly walking about among the low thin I ran down the hill, jungle beyond the village. and mounted Dicky gave chase. Bruin stood quietly looking at me in amazement till I got close, and then he legged it into the jungle. I came up and speared him behind the shoulder. My compliment was returned by his charging furiously, and very nearly Soon afterwards he sat getting hold of my nag. down among some rocks. As I rode up, he charged viciously, which I stopped by driving my spear right through his body. He now took refuge on the top of a small rocky hill, and as he would not leave it, and
them come
well out.
'
'
my
horse could not go near him, I dismounted, walked up to him and drove my spear through his Still the game foe charged with great fury, heart. and drove followers and self dowTn the rock. He,
I rode back however, fell dead in this his last effort. towards the hill where Scott was waiting to get a shot But being told that another beast was at the bears.
in the
It
and went for him. saw the bear when I only was close upon him, and as I pursued him he rushed for Dicky and very nearly caught him. Luckily my spear took the assailant in the back, and rolled him over, under my nag's feet, who was thus compelled to jump over the quarry. My weapon was broken by maidan
(plain), I
turned
I
off
being now moonlight

'
'
shock, but the bladed portion remained in the bear; nevertheless he made at me open-mouthed.
the
could get another spear Dicky became so violent that the plucky brute, though very severely
Before
'
'
238
Another bear was wounded, ultimately escaped. spied by a coolie, but I failed to see him.
"
4th June.
Grhur-Chunda.
but saw nothing. blood, but failed to recover the game.
out very early Followed yesterday's bear by the
Went
About
1 1 A.M.,
while sitting in the tents, Meer Saib reported that there were four bears coming across the maidan to
but though we got on our horses as fast as we could, we were too late to prevent them In the evening we sat reaching their stronghold.
the
hill,
After dusk, one came out and took Scott fired and hit up a position under a tree. him, and as he attempted to run, I sent a ball through
over the dens.
body, but although we then lost him, owing to the darkness, his body was found a little way off. " " and In the night we were roused by a cry of Bears
his
!
now
f
occurred
rather
an
Taking our guns, we ran pyjamas/ and slippers, and after pursuing the animal for some distance without getting a sight of him, I got disgusted, and was returning to the tents when the horses were brought up. The moon at this hour was very bright, so I mounted, and after cantering a short way saw an enormous male bear. As soon as I came within some thirty yards, he turned and charged with a loud roar. I rode at him and the
spear entering his neck, broke
collision.
I
uncommon adventure. out as we were, in our
by the force of the soon got another weapon and continued
Scott in the meanwhile rode after him, but on bruin charging, his horse, a very high-caste
the
'
run.'
Arab, shied off, which was not to be wondered at, as we were riding without spurs, almost bare-footed. The bear chased him for some distance, but on my
Bears
(Asiatic].
239
coming up, rushed at me with great ferocity, but though I stopped him by driving my spear more than a foot deep into his head, yet such was the Thus force of his charge that it broke to shivers. I of which had were my two pet spears, with one
As previously slain eight bears, hors de combat. Scott could not get his horse to close, he gave me his weapon, and though bruin had got into fearfully
times.
holey cotton ground, I managed to wound him several On the last occasion, the bear was so nearly seizing my horse, that he had raised himself on his
hind ]egs to do it, but I just managed to get out of his reach, leaving One of spear in him.
my
my
servants
now came
up,
and gave me a hog
spear,
and
drove
The
large bear spear into bruin's hindquarters'! bear seized the shaft and broke it to pieces, but
my
while he was thus engaged I rolled him over dead with a thrust through the heart. Thus ended my
first
encounter with a bear by moonlight, and considering that we were in our night costume, and that
of great size and ferocity, it may be a pronounced very satisfactory bit of shikar.' " 5th June. Out early this morning but saw In the nothing. evening went to the old 'boorj/
the brute
w as
T
'
and made ourselves comfortable with carpets, lemonade and books till just about dark, when Ramdeen, a I went down to him and he showed sepoy, whistled. me a bear a little way off as soon as he moved I knocked him over with Poll and then both Scott and I hit him again. He managed to get down nearly to the foot of the hill, though again wounded by me. I then went up and speared him, but finding he had a good deal of strength remaining, I
;
'
'
240
left
ball
"
spear in him, and finished through the head.
my
him
off
with a
6th June.
About 10
last night,
we were again
tents.
roused,
and told a bear was near the
We
mounted our horses and went for him, but to our I tried to disgust found him returning up the hill.
get a shot among the rocks, but could not. returned to our beds to sleep, but in about another
We
hour we were again woke up and told that Mr. Bruin was at hand. At first, thinking it was useless to
get a shot, but finding I could not, I got on Dicky,' and followed Scott, already mounted. Scott rode near bruin, but could not get up
attempt to
ride, I tried to
'
him owing to his horse refusing to close, so I passed him and speared the bear, who ran in among some no pleasant thing rocks, where I had to follow him
to
'
by the
light
of the
moon
'
and being merely en

I suffered
deshabille
both
;
Scott and
considerably
y
from the thorns
bruin
beyond the rocks, my nearing him, he charged and received
now passed through the jungle and took across the maidan. On
my
spear
He had strength enough left, through his heart. however, to make one more furious rush, which smashed a spear. This was the brave beast's last
effort.
hill and stood some crackers into a 'boorj,' meaning Before we could do so, two bears neighbouring den.
"
In the morning we walked to the

to put
on the
suddenly rushed forth, one of whom I instantly knocked over with Poll and another gun. Scott fired, but missed the second bear, which took across
'
'
I ran down, mounted, and after a long the plain. run delivered my spear in a charge. Immediately
Bears
(Asiatic).
241
after this animal retreated into thickish jungle, so that At last I gave him a I could not easily get at him.
desperate wound behind the shoulder, but he still ran on, and the jungle became so dense that I could not
view of him, more especially as Bull mute. I can't imagine how the became suddenly I returned to the bear got away, but escape he did. had that Scott finished and found hill, my bear with
retain
my
'
'
three more shots.
out close to
While doing this, three bears rushed him, but luckily did not charge, so that he
all,
was able
to
wound them
having the greater part of
The big female went into a den, battery at hand. blood with from various wounds, one of streaming
my
off
them
inflicted
'
by
Poll.'
Scott also knocked a cub
into the den.
her back with a bullet, and the third bear also got When I arrived, I found the female
crawling out of one of the dens, so shot her dead. Having put lighted straw into the caves, out rushed
a bear.
Both Scott and
in chase of one of
my
coolies
wounded him, in fact he was when I stopped him by
a two-ounce
his
ball.
The
coolie in his fright fell with
head against a rock, and remained senseless for an hour or more. Bruin now ran round the rocks, and Meer Saib hit him in the head, after which he got a
This rough treatment caused him to make for a cave, down to the bottom of which I sent
salvo from us.
him with
'
Poll.'
in the cave
to go with lighted straw to dispense the coup de grace. This was objected to from a rifle,
Upon the dead bear that was he now turned his wrath, so I had
it
lying
down
into
so finally I
off
had
to crawl into the den,
and
finish
him
with
my
spear.
On
the coolies going to remove
the bodies, the remaining cub charged them, but was
242
soon knocked on the head.
So much
for
Ghur-
Chunda.
On
arrival
we were
told that twelve bears
lived there.
bagged ten and mortally wounded the other two. With the exception of the cubs, all had been the terror of the natives, several of whom
they had
others
;
We
killed,
and mauled and disfigured many

their
in
fact
ferocious characters
made
it
doubtful whether they or the residents were masters of the situation. " On the 7th and 8th of June, two bears were
wounded, but lost. On the 9th there were no less than twelve bears on foot, but we did not bag one. On the 10th, llth, and 12th we wounded several There our hunting trip bears, but only secured one. may be said to have ended, but we did not return to cantonments until the 20th."
CHAPTER
SAMBUE.
VII.
Cervus Aristotdis.
I
AM
convinced that there are two varieties of this
deer, one which inhabits the mountain districts of
the far east, and the other frequents its vast plains, principally those of Burma. The former is a prize worth obtaining the latter, although nearly its equal in size, yet has insignificant horns, and is all but devoid of the mane which is so conspicuous in the first
;
mentioned.
the
plains,
Another peculiarity of the sambur of

is,
almost every one, in the hot season, at all events, has a sore or abrasion of the skin underneath the neck, about the size of a shilling?
that
caused, the
fallen
rubbing against In Burma, the timber to get rid of parasites. " " to shed their horns in rusas June or July. begin
assert,
Burmese
by
its
The marsh deer
in
Assam do not
lose theirs until
October and November.
All these deer are possessed of immense vitality, and will go away with wounds that would stop the progress of any other game. " The " Old Forest Hanger mentions a case of a sambur stag-
with thirteen well-placed bullets, and I have myself put eight belted balls (No. 10 bore) in a moderategoing
off
244

fell.
have known another shot through the heart run for two hundred yards before Steaks of the sambur, cooked like beef dropping. are scarcely to be distinguished from the real article. The marrow bones and tongue are unexceptional, but
sized male before he
I
the greater portion of the carcase
is
coarse,
and
bell
"
as it
cannot be hung
is
very tough, so
is
is
seldom used in
cuisine if other flesh
procurable.
off
The
"
of a
rusa can be heard a long way
and when disturbed
by the approach of a tiger or some other dangerous animal, they make the surrounding country resound
are essentially gregarious, a stag is generally accompanied by several hinds. The very old and therefore those worthy of the greater
with this alarm.
As they
attention "
of
the
solitaire," like
sportsman are often, however, males of the bo vines, elephants, &c.
Although generally a timid animal, I have had a doe stand and look steadily at me whilst I have, off an elephant's back, fired three or four shots at her
head, the only part visible, the bullets striking the trunks of the saplings amongst which she was standI have shot ing without causing her to move a muscle
!
this animal in
many parts
of India,
Assam and Burma,
and I once witnessed a fight between two stags which is worth relating. had in fact just arrived when I was on Bison Hill
the shikarie sent with
liked he could show
me by Linga Eeddy, said, if I me some deer not far off. So

to him,
taking
my
rifle,
and giving an extra one
we
through bamboos, and at
went along a spur of the lull leading towards the had to pass Eiver. gorge of the Godavery of several patches long grass, clumps of
We
last,
when about
a mile from camp,
Sambur.
245
we came upon a most

of
us,
park-like scene.
Right in front
extending fully three-quarters of a mile, there lay a broad expanse of country, relieved from monotony by undulations, and with clumps of trees so
arranged, as to look as
if artificially
planted by some
landscape gardener.
have never seen a
more
picturesque spot in my life, the further extremity ending on almost a precipice, beneath which the deep waters of the Godavery flowed along peacefully without a ripple, exemplifying the old saying that " still
waters run deep," for just there the river is supposed to be unfathomable. Steep as is the declivity, here and narrow there, paths sloped downwards to the heavily
wooded country,
during the day.
hills
is
in
which the mighty stags repose

this succession of
The formation of
composed almost entirely of laterite, and anything moving fast over it, causes a reverberation which can be heard a long
peculiar.
most
They
are
way
'Moreover the sides are perpendicular, often forty, fifty and more feet, over which nothing can
off.
except at far apart places where there are narrow shoulders sloping down to the valleys which separate these tablelands, and along which various
pass
animals travel.
The general height of these
hills is
about 2,300 to 2,500 feet. Where we were, the grass was only about thirty-six inches high, over which we made for the shelter of a clump of bamboos. When
saw three or four hinds feedWithin way thirty yards of them was a huge prostrate tree, and creeping on hands and knees we got under the shelter of its trunk not that I intended to do the does any harm but to lie in wait for a stag, which it was more than probable would
peeping beyond them,
ing a little
off.
246
turn up. were of the tableland.
We
now
On
one
within fifty paces of the edge side, to our right, even
almost with the surface of the country, was the crown of a tall tree, a wild mango, the roots being in the
" ground fully 120 feet below. The laterite cropped over, forming a ledge, a good deal hollowed out underneath. So a lead line dropped from the edge would have touched a natural terrace, on which a few trees,
"
including the tall mango, grew, below which again there was a sheer fall of about twenty feet, and then a
slope which ended in a narrow but dry watercourse which divided that hill from the next. These
I particulars are requisite to explain what followed. had lain perdu perhaps a quarter of an hour, when
one doe and then another pricked up their ears and looked to our right. We gazed in that direction
first
too,
and saw presently the tips of a splendid pair of antlers. The warrior who carried them seemed in no It was not the rutting season, or probably hehurry. would have been a little quicker. While looking in
the direction of the advancing beauty, the shikari e touched me on the shoulder and pointed to an
altogether opposite course, and there, equally slowly marching along, was another stag, for all the world
the duplicate of the one on the right. I anticipated some fun as I wr as sure these gay Lotharios would
not agree, for although the hinds would not then accept their attentions, I have no doubt the object in
view was to ingratiate themselves with the does and walk off with them, for more ardent advances at a future date. I fancy the one on the right was the lawful owner of the harem, the one on the left an
intruder,
as
he advanced quicker and immediately
Sainbur.
247
began to caress the hinds. When number one looked up and saw as it were a, twin stag taking liberties with his wives, he drew himself up to his full height, gave a snort, and trotted towards his rival, who, in no way embarrassed, devoted his attentions first to one
But though apparently ignoring the advent of No. 1 stag, No. 2 had his eyes open, and when the other was within a yard of him, he faced round and charged at his foe. The two met, as we read knights did of old. Great was the crash, neither gave away an inch. It was a The hinds colcase of "push devil, push baker." lected in a cluster and came nearer us, and looked on as interested spectators of a grand combat. They were splendidly matched the suborbital glands were
and then
to
another of
the ladies.
extended to the utmost
fury glared out of their eyes
as they determinedly opposed each other. lasted about ten minutes. No. 2 stag must
The
fight
have been
in better
his rival
wind and perhaps a
little
backwards foot by foot. inflicted wounds, they both retreated which prods, backwards a few paces, then bounded forward and
again met in conflict
;
stronger, so forced After a few vicious
this
time
and
side,
his
antagonist gave him which rolled him over.
No. 2 stumbled, a severe prod in the
He
then retreated a
yard or two, preparatory to a final effort to extinguish his opponent, but it was evident that the latter was
not a novice, for he was on his feet instantly, jumped aside, evaded the thrust, and in turn rolled over his
adversary and knelt on him. They were both pretty well exhausted, but not much damage had been done in the rough and tumble scramble. Finally both got
on their
feet together,
but their antlers were inter-
248
locked, and, in endeavouring to extricate themselves, they approached the edge of the tableland and, before
I
could raise
rushed to
gun the edge and
my
to
fire,
toppled over.
We
us,
there,
120 feet below
jammed between the mango tree and the edge of the dead The hinds precipice, lay these two warriors
!
went
about a hundred yards when they saw us, then turned round and stared at us, but we did not
off
There was no means of descending to where the stags were lying, so I went back to camp, where I arrived about dark, and sent a party out with
molest them.
torches to bring in the trophies. They even could two so cut them off and not disunite the heads,
transported
have liked
I should them home as they were. to have sent them to a taxidermist, but as
none was within three thousand miles, I skinned the heads and retained the skulls with the horns interlaced.
Then, foolishly,
Collected
I
sent
them with other

to
trophies
during
became
insane.
years Thinking that
fifteen
friend,
but he
in the
I
my
treasures were all
hung
in his hall in Suffolk, I did not

;
move
matter for some time
but on visiting his home
saw
only a few specimens, so after inquiries I discovered that, after lying in the Customs warehouses for years
in Liverpool, the collection I had been at the trouble and expense of securing, had been sold by auction to
Who got them or what became of defray expenses. them, I could never find out. In 1863, when on " leave" to the Neilgherry Hills,
I
made
the acquaintance of the late General Douglas
Hamilton, and he very kindly placed his hut and his His bungalow at Ooty was shikarie at my disposal. a curiosity, the walls were covered with innumerable
Sambur.
249
horns and heads of gaur, sambur, spotted deer, barkI ing deer, also tiger and leopard heads and skins.
admired the sambur horns in

afraid I riled the
particular,
but
am
cow gaur
in
Burma
largest bull's 1 trip I also came across the so-called Neilgherry ibex, I will describe the beast here as I have only shot a
;
worthy sportsman by saying that the could show better horns than the head which he possessed and as in this
few specimens. Francis, the shikarie, went on two We encamped on the Ooty side clays ahead of me. of the great valley. Starting at daylight next morning, and looking down a natural slope, I was amazed to see almost every crag occupied by an ibex. There must
have been over a hundred visible, nor did the herds seem alarmed, but were somewhat cuddled together as if for warmth, for at 5 A.M. on the top of the range, the thermometer does not stand many degrees above I took out my binoculars, but even freezing point. with its aid I could only see one " saddle back," and he was on an eminence, beyond his flock. I could have killed a doe or perhaps two, but I had not come
all this
way for that purpose. What I required was a good head or two to add to my collection. How to get within range of the old ram was the puzzle.
There was a nullah to
it,
my right rear, and, by following reach a might point whence I could get a shot. crawled along the side of the ravine, and when I
I
I
was within about thirty yards of Master Billy, I looked over the side, but the large male had disappeared, and only kids and females were in view. Francis now touched me and moved away, I following.
thought
1
Hemitragus Hylocrius, closely

are wild goats not ibex.
allied to the
Himalayan
tahir.
They
250
went along the hollow, which was more of a crevice than a nullah, following its upward course. Very soon the walking became very bad and we had
to pick our
We
way
carefully
which lay scattered about,

noise
among the various debris for if we made the slightest

a shot would be remote.
steadily ascended and, a on our rounding point, right was a high conical
I carefully scanned peak. every crag, but could not see a single ibex we still went on, the nullah winding until we got very nearly to its source here we left
;
:
we knew the chances of For fully half an hour we
it
belt going through on to again emerged open ground.
and,
of undersized trees,
To the
left,
scattered in groups of five and six, there must have been fifty ibex, but not an old one among them
hundred yards off, stood a fairtook a careful sight and fired the animal dropped, but something lay struggling on the ground beyond, the whole flock, were now off at
sized
Nearest to me, about a

buck.
I
I again fired at my victim, but before the bullet could have left the barrel, the goat ceased its efforts ; it was dead. Francis promptly pushed the full gallop.
an express '577, into my hand and pointed eagerly to the left, and there, going at his best pace and fully 200 yards away, was a huge black goat,
second
rifle,
with the unmistakable white saddle back.
My
first
but
shot struck in a good line, but a little too far forward, it was near enough to cause the animal to partially
pause and then bound forward.

fired
;
Just at that
moment
the result was a stumble, but the beast again picked himself up and ran on three legs, for the off forearm was broken. We marked the direction that he
took, as Francis said he
would not go
far,
but
lie
up in
Ncilgherry Ibex and Sainbnr.

a small
first
251
"
shola
"
in our front.
On
;
approaching the
buck we found an ewe also dead the bullet after passing through the ram had struck her in the neck. Now commenced one of the hardest fags I have ever " saddle undergone, but I was determined to have that back," even if I had to sleep on his trail all night. His track we soon found, and a fair quantity of blood Sure enough he was in the shola, but on along it.
had to track him carefully as the undergrowth was somewhat thick, and all the satisfaction we got was hearing him rush out, without even getting a sight of him. I ran forward, but came an awful cropper, my foot catching in a trailing vine.
the further side.
We
After I picked myself up, I saw a glimpse of the tail of the animal as he wound round a rocky peak.
going strong, but did not face the steep ascent, selecting for his course the side of the valley. I fancy he did not like irregular ground, with only
three legs to trust to. were at fault once or twice, for the ground became rocky and there was but very little blood but making way for Francis, that
;
He was
We
experienced shikarie took up the trail like a welltrained hound, and though our progress was slow it
was
While my attendant was looking down the examining ground, I happened to cast my eyes to the left and just saw the tips of a fine pair of
sure.
The owner was going away with lowered head, but he had not caught our eyes (a beast will often gaze upon a man until the eyes meet and then he will bound off) so the buck was not unduly alarmed, thus he stopped for a moment to take a backward " " I fired and heard the thud of the bullet. glance. Francis turned round, thinking it was the old ram I
antlers.
;
252
had shot at, and catching sight of the big stag said it was one Hamilton had been in chase of for the last two or three years, as he had a white mark down the rump, where he had been clawed by a leopard. Marking the spot up to which we had followed the
I fired of the stag. of which we found altogether eleven shots at him nine had taken effect before we secured our quarry,
goat,
we took up
the
trail
and a noble beast
with splendid antlers, each over thirty-seven inches from the burr to the tip. By the time we had secured the game we were
it
was
too,
fully three miles or first seen it, so we
more away from where we had had tiffin and rested a little.
Instead of retracing our steps, Francis took a bee line straight up a steep hill, saying the ram would be in " shola " on the other side. the Climbing that hill was " it saved us but several a miles. When we buster,"
reached the top, I found we had to descend fully five hundred feet, the hill top itself being as bare as a bone. On our downward course we put up several ewes
but let them alone, although I was sorely It was to shoot one of the latter for the pot. tempted now past two ; and Francis said the buck would be stiff, I ready to pull the triggers at the least so lie close. " shola." sound, entered the Immediately there
and
kids,
was a
rustle.
I fired
more
at the noise than at any-
thing I saw, and as I did so up got the ram. I caught him with the left barrel, but he went on but, strange
;
had killed a wild dog, which I have no doubt had been after the wounded quarry. As the skin was a very good one, Francis placed the dead animal among a group of rocks, saying he would have it brought in when he
to say, I
found that with
my
first
shot
Neilgherry Ibex and Sambur.

sent for the stag.
253
Resuming our tracking we soon

"
;
found that the old " saddle back was not only hard for though we hit, but was a knowing old brute
started
him two shot at him till
or three times, I did not get another close on 4 P.M. Fortunately he was
unable to go over bad ground, so picked his way along the most level country he could find. Finally with a snap shot I killed him, not a mile from the camp. He
had a good head, horns close on fourteen inches. I hunted for three more days, but only got one other " saddle back," and that not nearly the equal of the first I obtained. During this trip I saw several none as large as the stag that I had but sambur, killed, so was content with having slain the monarch
of the glen.
Sambur shooting
in
Burma
is
so
mixed up with
to-
general shooting that I propose having a few words
say about it hereafter. Marsh- deer (Rucervus Davaucellii). This deer is It is found in various parts of widely distributed.
India and I have shot
wiiere
is it
more
near the Godavery, but noIts habitat plentiful than in Assam.

it
does not extend to Burma.
Very few deer
in the
wild state in the East carry much fat, but the marsh or swamp deer is an exception, for I have shot them
in such condition that
of
lumps of fat, nearly the size have come my fist, through the bullet holes. Many of the stags carry very fine heads and it is not un-
common to find them possess
eighteen points, although twelve to fourteen is more usual. I once saw a head,
not a large one by any means, which had no less than twenty-seven tines, but they were mostly stunted. Of course the head was valuable as a curiosity.
254
On
one occasion
ing meat for my I tried first ground thing I could obtain for the pot. that was considerably higher than that surrounding it. The new grass was a nice height, and ere long I
was near Loqua-Ghat and wantpeople I went out to get any-
saw several herds of doe swamp deer, but I preferred a Although there were several stag if I could find one. brockets in sight I had to hunt about in unburnt The patches before I came across a mature buck. first I killed had its horns still covered with velvetyet the greater part of the antlers had formed, although the tips were still soft. Thinking all the stags would be in the same state, I killed two hinds, then rolled over another, which kept turning head over heels,
In its gyrations apparently being unable to get up. it fell into a nullah, the banks of which were so rotten
and steep that I had to make a detour to get to where the doe had lain, to all appearance in the last gasp.
When
non
est
got to where she should have been, she was ! what became of her I cannot tell. I can
only imagine that a tiger must have carried her off. I then came across a large rhinoceros, hit it, and
whilst going full pelt in pursuit, my elephant almost As I fired, the poor brute kicked up a marsh stag.
its
sprang up into the air, and then kept bounding on hind legs and falling down at last it lay on its
;
I got down to give it the side breathing heavily. examine the head to see whether and to de grace -coup
,
Two does had already been was there thus hal-laled, plenty of meat for all so I suppose I must have approached the moribund beast
the horns had formed.
;
incautiously, for it instantly sprang I jumped aside vicious prod at me.
up and made a and as I did so
Ibex
and Sambur.
life
it
255
left
fell,
and the stag

its
tinue
assault
still had enough however I caught
to con-
a blow on the
nose with the
full force of
my
right foot
armed with
a shooting boot, and in a moment after I seized it by the antlers, when there was a brief struggle, for
the poor wretch was dying fast, being shot through the lungs, so I had no great difficulty in throwing it
on
its side
and cutting
its throat.
This was a lesson
not to be forgotten, so I never again approached a The horns, though still stag in so careless a manner.
in
were perfectly formed, and when their In the dooars, envelope peeled off, very handsome.
velvet,
Bhootan range, these deer After the stag has shed his horns, which takes place in October and November,
at the foot of the
Himalya
or
are literally in thousands.
he
some remote locality and keeps in hiding Their growth is very are fully matured. they rapid, for they will have acquired their full size in
retires to
till
three or four months, but the velvet
is
not shed
till
towards the end of
May or early in June. Gracefully smaller than the sambur, but larger are formed, they than the thamine or brow-antlered deer.
Marshy
localities are their
haunts
that
is,
they feed on aquatic
but always
plants, standing often in water up to their bellies, retire to perfectly dry land to rest. In
combats between the stags are frequent, and occasionally one or both antagonists are killed or die of their wounds. As well as sambur
the rutting
season,
they are affected by disease or murrain, and I have seen not only these deer, but buffaloes, lying dead by
the dozen.
When
"
well as jackals,
repletion.
have a high old time
that occurs tigers and vultures, as " and feed to
256
frontalis). Hog-deer (Cervus are two There of the thamin varieties porcinus). one that inhabits Burma and Siam, and the other
Thamin (Cervus
Manipur.
The
basal antler of the latter
is
longer and
" " quins or plains surrounded gregarious, live in open by forest, and a herd of from twenty to thirty members As a rule they are very wary and is not unusual.
main horn, slightly bent upwards and forward, and often there are no terminal branches even in a full-grown stag, whilst with the former there are always terminal branches, the basal and main horn forming more of an angle and less of a curve. In size they are larger than a spotted deer, but less than the marsh deer. In proportion to their height they have large and graceful antlers. I have shot them with six tines on each beam, but often there are excrescences which might almost be counted as points. They are
a continuation of the
difficult to get near, but after the first rains have fallen the graceful creatures are so tormented by gad flies, that their whole attention is taken up in knocking off
those pests, so provided the wind be favourable, a wary hunter should have no difficulty in getting within
Hog-deer abound everywhere in Assam and Burma, but are not plentiful in India, being found in only a few localities far apart. They run like hares and are anything but easy to shoot with ball, although they lie very close so if you want meat for the camp, use shot, when you can bowl them over as easily as rabbits, but at the same time they and I have seen one run before possess great vitality it fell a hundred yards and more with the entrails In the monsoon they are more or less trailing.
shot.
;
spotted, the
young invariably
so.
They can be
easily
Marsh Deer.
tamed when caught young, and make pretty
but are
257
pets,
very destructive, eating cloth, paper, etc. The males lie up in high grass and creep along in front
of an elephant for all the world like a feline, and many a heart in mouth I have been on the time, with
my
my
qui vive for a view of Master Stripes, when at last They, only a wretched little deer lias bounded forth. " " as well as the barking and four-horned deer, are
excellent eating.
I
We
was out with Lloyd in one of the early sixties. sent on our camp to Banlong and followed a few
By starting at 4 P.M. we days afterwards in boats. arrived our destination at about 6 A.M. next usually
I had a house built at Myet-quin, about ten day. miles inland. Game of nearly every variety abounded,
for there
only a few Karen huts scattered about, so the wild animals were seldom Near my shooting-box there was an disturbed.
were no villages to speak
of,
extensive bheel or jheel, with an ample supply of water, but further inland there was only one pool,
which was composed more of liquid mud than anything else, but which sufficed for the wants of the
vast tract. Salt-licks also were an to all bovines and attraction numerous, unfailing This pool, deer, and, it is even said, of felines. called by the Burmese Gna-Eein, in the dry season was full of fish resembling the Indian murrul, and our
denizens
of that
wade in and by groping from one to three pounds. many weighing As long as there was water in this pool, game, especially We tried hunting its locality at big game, abounded. various seasons, but found May to be the best month,
mahouts used frequently
about catch
to
for earlier the
annual
fires
take place, causing the wild

s
258

;
beasts to keep on the move later on the rains have set in, whilst in the cold season, November, December
and January, the grass becomes twenty feet high. May 4th. i was the first to reach our destination,
all
my
boat being faster than Lloyd's
so I ordered
the elephants, which had arrived the evening before, to be got ready and packed for an immediate
march inland, then sent for the three shikaries, Because en route Shoay-jah, Monwine and Shoayoo. thamine and hog deer abounded I did not send the camp ahead. Lloyd arrived about 7 A.M. There was no delay, so mounting our ponies and followed by In the first two miles our the shikaries we went on.
then dry, of courseroute lay across paddy fields afterwards we entered a forest of various trees which
extended for three miles.
On emerging from it, in front
of us the country consisted of patches of open ground, The shikaries now long grass, and belts of forest.
went ahead, while the syces were told to be near to hold our steeds in case of any game turning up. Before long we saw several doe thamine, but would
not
fire at them, as they were numerous close to our hut in the " quin." We also disturbed a few hogWe had gone half way through the first plain, deer.
when
in a small tope we saw standing, somewhat Dismounting, we attempted apart, a couple of stags. had heard us and went off to stalk them, but they
This country we long before we got within shot. both knew, having hunted over it many times, so separated, Lloyd with Shoay-jah going one way, I made I with the other two men went another.
quin," sending pony on straight for the path, as he could not scramble through such
"
my
by the
ground
Deer.
as I
259
had to walk over. In many places the surface would be quite smooth and covered with short grass, in others (very marshy in the rains), there would be
a series of
hummocks
;
made,
it is said,
by worms-
covered with creepers and vines, most difficult and fatiguing to traverse then grass from three to four
and more feet high, just the place for a lurking tiger would occur. It is no joke crossing this description of country on foot, but we did not often do it, preferring to be on elephants, but this day something induced " us to try shanks's mare," and I for one was heartily sorry, long before I got to our destination, being dead beat and in fear that I should have a sun-stroke. The only thing I saw was a rock snake, in a dormant state, It had evidently swallowed about fifteen feet long.
;
a hog-deer, for the projections
made by
I
the small
horns were visible within

so although in a
it.
never spare a snake,
good hunting country,
put a
ball
through
its
head.
Thank goodness,
I
at last I got
into a forest free of jungle, fair to
shade overhead most grateful.

three or four times.
rider
walk in, and with heard Lloyd fire
He was an
in
fact
excellent shot,
all
good
round, but good rather excitable and somewhat jealous out shootMyet-quin was now in sight. How I longed ing. to get there and pour water over my heated brain, for my head felt as if on fire. The exertion and sun combined had unquestionably been too much for me. We were moving noiselessly along when the tips of a pair of antlers to our left caught my eye, but the animal itself was invisible, so signing to the shikaries to stand still, I crept forward, and got within fifty
cricketer,
and
yards of a fine stag, lying down, busily engaged in S 2
260
shaking and knocking off flies, but in the position he lay I could only fire at the back of his head or into his
rump.
I
was
so
unsteady and shaky that
was
afraid
should miss, but resting my rifle up against the trunk of a sapling, holding my breath, and steadying
myself as much as I could, I drew a bead on to the back of the skull, and on pulling the trigger was delighted to see the animal's head fall forward, the body stretch out, a few convulsive quivers of the legs
and
feet,
own
with the exception of my head, that ached and racked as if it would burst.
all
still,
when
was
Leaving the shikaries to bring in the deer, I hurried to the hut, and put up many hog-deer on the way, but let them severely alone. The servants had arrived, so I was soon in the bath-room, and a dozen chatties of water over my head somewhat relieved my pains. " " Putting on my pyjamas and nightshirt, I lay down
and kept quiet for the rest of the day. Lloyd turned up about an hour after I did. He had shot a doe thamine and a young sambur stag, and had been in
chase of a herd of
"
"
t'sine
"
or wild cattle.
In the evening he went out again and brought in
two "da la el (hog-deer) and a peacock. The latter was converted into mulligatawny soup, and the small deer afforded excellent chops and joints, while the sambur and the thamine were handed over to the
camp
followers.
two shikaries went off to some Karen huts about two miles further in the jungle and returned with
My
one of the inhabitants, who reported having seen
upon tracks of game of all sorts. The only drawback, he said, was that the jungles had not been thoroughly burnt, as a good deal of rain had fallen in
tracks
Mixed
Sport.
261
it
March and April and put a stop to the process, but is an ill wind that blows nobody any good, and though the rains had spoi]t the burning, they had filled the Gna-Eein, and other pools in the jungles, near which we should be sure to get good sport.
Early next morning we were on our elephants, Lloyd on a tusker belonging to the commissariat and I on
my own
and
are
"hattie."
We
had eight more

I
as
beaters
for carrying
game.
may
here say, that there
no
professional shikaries like those in India to
be
found in Burma, yet every village of any importance has a man or two who kills game and sells it to the
people, but for a long time we could not induce them In the first place, they did not to accompany us.
want
preserves, or what they considered as such, to be encroached upon, as it would have deprived
their
own
them
of their profits, and, secondly, they had an idea that if any European came to grief, they would be
!
Of the niceties of blamed and perhaps hanged sport they knew nothing, were not good trackers, but they were acquainted with the country and could take you with precision from one place to another. Every Burman knows sufficient of the stars to guide himself by them at night. Moreover very few Europeans at that time had acquired their language. But Eaikes of the Artillery and Charlie Hill of the 69th both learned to speak Burmese fluently, and they were the first men on the Sittang side, with the exception of Berdmore and O'Riley, who induced the Burmese to show them game. I followed in their footsteps and moreover had had four years' experience of the country and people in other parts of Burma, and so I knew
that
if
kindly treated, given
all
game not required
as
262
food for the camp, a lot of grog and a little tobacco now and then, a Burman will do anything for you. Lloyd too, besides being the Deputy Commissioner of the
district,
his wife
talked the language well, but in that respect was far his superior, for in a year or two she
picked up the language so thoroughly, that the Burmese themselves wondered how she had acquired such a Moreover neither of us were perfect knowledge of it.
and paid the men well, and they found that in trip, what with the money they got as pay, the government rewards, and by the sale of dried meat, they made more than they would do in a couple of years by the beasts they had been in the habit of I had hunted with these men killing by torchlight. in 1856-58 and again in 1859 and 1860, and for three years afterwards, and had no difficulty in getting them to take us to the best places. But to return
stingy,
one
to our trip.
May
6th.
The
r
shikaries took
us away from the

in,
Grna-Eein into grass too high to see anything
and though w e heard dozens of animals bolting, we saw nothing for the best part of the day, so lost our time and I fear our tempers. But towards the afternoon we got into better ground. Here the country is
covered with
trees
pretty far apart.

;
One
is
the
pemah, which has a lilac flower the other is very like the laburnum, 1 but if possible finer. Between these trees there is what the Burmese term kine
grass,
we formed
growing from three to six feet high. Here line and soon put up sambur after sambur.
if
We
were both reluctant to shoot hinds, but

1
we
did
not provide the shikaries with plenty of meat, which

Cassia Fistula.
Mixed
Sport.
263
they jerk and form into a kind of biltong, they might have struck work, or pretended illness and have left
us. So every now and then we let fly not always anxious to kill but Lloyd bowled over two and I
fallen tree,
then saw a very large stag standing near a with very fair antlers. He was watching and had his body turned away from me. Lloyd
one.
I
Directing the line of elephants to halt, I advanced alone and got within fifty yards and fired. The deer spun round and went off full score, and but for the
thud" I should have thought I had missed him. He ran for some way, then descended a steep nullah, but
in attempting to ascend the other bank,
"
back, himself and ran I its bed. picked up again along was sure of him now, so followed as fast as I could,
whilst Lloyd went after that moment sprung up.
I
fell
a large thamine, which at I found my stag lying dead.
never shot one greater in bulk, but his horns were We then only twenty-four and a half inches long.
turned homewards, carrying the slain on the spare elephants, when we came across a sounder of hog
;
had porkers just fit for the spit, so I potted two, and Lloyd wounded the boar, and after a long chase secured him. He was only fit food for the Burmese, but had fair tusks, eight and a half inches long. It was with some difficulty we could get these so-called unclean animals on the hatties, as the mahouts would not touch them, and indeed We objected to their being placed on the guddees. got home just at sunset and when close to the bheel I
several of the sows
shot a hog-deer.
feeders perforce
may
of
here say, wild pigs are clean circumstances, for where they
offal.
roam,
they can usually find no
But
if
they
264

across a "kill,"
will greedily
come
they ones are capital

coarse
however putrid the flesh maybe, devour it. Sows and the young eating, but an old boar's flesh is
and rank. That night we had a long confab, with the Karen and our shikaries, and it was decided we were to go straight to the Gna-Eein and not shoot at anything but big game, or an aged stag if it came in our way.
What
capital cooks the Indians are
Burmese
servants.
Mine were
fail
all
Lloyd had only Madrassies, and I
never knew them to

occasion.
to serve
up a repast that
would not have done honour to a feast, except on one We had arrived at our halting-place very late after dark and missed the huts prepared for us, so slept in the open, and the cooking of course was alfresco. A capital dinner was extemporised, but
up, every single dish was full of flying not the bugs ordinary small green ones, which are offensive enough, but monsters which, attracted by
when served
the
fires,
had invaded
all
with a deserved death
our cooking pots so met but spoilt our meal. However,

;
we had always plenty
of canned edibles with us, and
a tin of sardines, partaken of under the protection of mosquito curtains, sufficed to allay our hunger. were up and away before daybreak. May 7th.
We
Our
breakfast, under charge of
my Maty
boy, was
carried on an elephant, and sundry bottles of beer, duly wrapped in wet cloths, were hung on the sides of
the pad to cool. none we cared
We
to
saw
lots of deer of sorts,
but
kill.
We
also
disturbed a few
jungle and peafowl. As we entered the heavy cover, Lloyd came upon a herd of buffaloes. He emptied his
battery into them,
when they
all
crossed the line in
Mixed
front of me.
fine bull,
fell,
Sport.
265
As
but
pulled the trigger, the leader, a my shot went clean over him.
L.
I
hit it in the lungs, so it died of suffocation. then pushed after the largest cow that was
had
She did not go far, waited behind a clump of long grass and then charged, but as I have said before, Burmese elephants don't care a rush for
also
wounded.
they are so used to them so my hattie, a fine tusker, gave her a prod in the shoulder, which knocked her down, but she was instantly up and at
buffaloes
;
us again but before she could close I struck her spine and over she went. Finding that she was in full milk, we searched the adjoining grass and soon found a
;
which was secured. As the Burmese was no nourishment for it was therefore the poor thing duly hal-laled and eaten. About a mile further on we saw ultimately
little
cow
calf,
don't milk their cows, so there

;
several
firing at
gaur, but could not get near them, the Further the buffs having alarmed them.
we came upon a mucknah and three cow elephants. They allowed us to get close up to them, They were not worth the shooting, as I had practically
on
proved a couple of years before that
it is
impossible
to shoot, dead, an elephant off an elephant, so did not fire at them, but companion, more impulsive
my
than
I,
got close to the male,
and he and Shoay-jah
who went away
emptied every gun they had into the poor brute, sorely wounded, and doubtless eventWhen my too eager but now crestfallen ually died.
companion came back, we had lost more than half an hour, so it was past eleven before we got to a pool of We water, where we dismounted and breakfasted. then went straight to the Gna-Eein, and about a
266

it
quarter of a mile from,
came upon two
salt-licks,
which were evidently favourite places of resort, as there were around it numerous footmarks of deer and wild cattle. Even a leopard had been there whether to eat the earth or to prey upon some I had dismounted visitor it was impossible to say. and was examining the spoor, when under a bush I I have shot very saw a muntjac looking at me.
few
of
these
deer,
for
though
seldom gets a view of them. They found in hilly country, and what this one was doing in the plains although not far from the hills I do
not know.
one plentiful are generally
bark like
These deer when disturbed or frightened a dog. They have peculiar horns, long
lines
canine teeth, and
two dark
Eoman noses, very ugly heads, with down each cheek, and a tuft of black
I
hair above either eye.
than the male.
If anything, the hind ought not to have fired,
is
uglier
but the
I wanted the specimen, which was a good one, so a bullet at the junction of the neck and breast dropped it dead where it was
temptation was too great, for
I standing, but at the report, a tiger sprang away. took a snap-shot and hit. Instantly we mounted, formed line, but lost an hour or more in a vain effort
The brute although there was plenty of blood. was not a fighting character, for though we got several more glimpses of him and fired several shots, he got into heavy jungle full of huge creepers, and so we failed. We then went on, and about 5 P.M. we saw a lovely sight in an open glade. There was a herd of gaur, about thirty in number, totally unconscious of danger. Among them was one fine bull, several younger ones, cows and their calves, the
Mixed
last
all
Sport.
little
267
creatures, looking
such pretty, odd-looking

ridge.
hump and dorsal
We
were so wrapped up
fire,
in admiration that
we had not
the heart to
and
before our
mood changed and we became
bloodthirsty
again, they winded us, and throwing up their heads and tails, away they went. When they had gone about fifty or sixty yards, the bull and cows pulled up, turned round, snorted, and pawed the ground but the calves continued their flight. The Burmese urged us to fire, but the distance was then over 150 yards, thus the chances were in favour of wounding and not killing so, to their great disgust, we
;
refused.
The
It
first
step
we took
to
forward, the
went
off.
was now time
make
for
gaur home.
Leaving the heavy jungle we went into kine grass, and put up sambur after sambur. Lloyd shot three. I declined to fire as the herd consisted of hinds only.
When we came
just
set.
in sight of the bungalow the sun had Lloyd and I were close together, when up
jumped
it fell
a fine thamine stag.
We both
it
shot and
down
both bullets had struck
so
we
tossed for
the head, which was a beauty, and Lloyd won. had exceptional luck to-day. May 8th.
We
We
were going along not expecting any game except We were not out of sight of camp, when hog-deer.
we came to a small dry watercourse, and to our amazement up jumped a large tigress. Lloyd, who had in hand his smooth-bore, fired a snap shot and broke her back. The row that she made sent every elephant but mine flying. I was within ten yards of her, but she
and forequarters so about, biting her leg just above the foot until she crushed the bone, thus I could not get a certain shot. The noise the
tossed her head
268
brute
made was even heard
in
camp, and groups of
the people assembled on the adjoining ant-hills, looking or trying to learn what caused the disturbance. At
last I
got a clear aim and killed her. Waving my handkerchief to the multitude, we soon had Burmese, Karens, Madrassies and Bengalies running towards us
them take the tigress back, and skin and peg out the pelf carefully, we continued our beat, but the row had disturbed this portion of the jungle, so choosing the easiest paths, we made for the Gna-Eein, but before we got there the bellowat their best speed, so bidding
ing of a gaur was heard. Shoay-jah was up a tree in a second and down again as rapidly. He said that there was a grand old bull about three hundred yards away,
close to
one of the
on* foot, so
salt-licks.
We
determined to
stalk
him
dismounted, and taking advantage
of every bit
of cover en route,
we got within about
had tossed for first seventy yards of the game. shot and for a wonder I had won, so resting my heavy two -groove rifle against a tree I fired at the point of
the shoulder. "
We
Down
"
the brute went.

"-
Lloyd's
rifle
went
snick,"
the nipples
snick the man had forgotten to cap the bull recovered his legs, the forearm
I
broken, and as he spun round to make off again and hit him close to the hip- joint.
fired
At
this
juncture of
seen,
affairs
the shikaries were nowhere to be

caps.
I
and Lloyd had no
gave him a couple of
mine, but they were too small for his gun, so I loaded as fast as I could, at the same time taking ground to
Lloyd went back to the elephants. from A loud wailing Shoay-jah broke the usual forest stillness and proclaimed that his master was walking How the into him after the most approved fashion
my
front, while
Mixed
gaur moved on at
all I
Sport.
269
for practically he
don't
know
had two broken
legs of patch long grass, intending doubtless to charge, but a seven-footer cannot hide like a mouse. So his
but go he did, and hid behind a
huge
carcase,
looming
like a rock,
caught
my eye
the
dorsal ridge being fully exposed, shot did not move the beast. As there
I fired at it,
but the
was no
tree close
and
with only one barrel loaded,

pulled
trigger,
did not care to encounter a charge at close quarters I aimed for the neck and
expecting that this time he would No, not he, so I reloaded. inevitably come for me. When I looked up again there the bull stood in exactly
Lloyd came up, and separating, we advanced upon either flank, but no fresh shots were required, for the grand old beast gracefully knelt r down, toppled over and expired. This w as the finest We left a man and an elephant gaur I ever saw. " to flay the pyoung," and to take his head and as much of the meat as was wanted, with the marrow bones, to camp, and continued our hunt. Again the had been disturbed and we saw nothing worth jungles until close to the foot of the Yomahs. That shooting meant ten or twe]ve miles from camp, when we came upon more gaur, from which Lloyd secured a cow. On our route homewards we knocked over a sambur stag, two does, and a fine hog deer. On the 15th we went to a vast plain where large game was said to abound. It was miles away from any The days had been intensely village that we knew of. for a not of rain had fallen for many weeks, hot, drop and the grass was on the greater part of the plain nearly twenty feet high, and as combustible as tinder. It was hard work pushing one's way through it, for the
the same position.
270

it
elephants had to use their whole weight to crush
down and make a path for themselves. Through all these obstacles we had to go to get to a place where we were informed that wild cattle were abundant. We
had got perhaps half-way across our hateful course rising in the far distance, but as the wind was blowing from us we did not heed it. In the fire of an had a quarter hour, spread considerably but still we did not think it menaced us, so went on in single file, a large mucknah leading the way and stamping down the reeds which were of the consistency of small bamboos. In another quarter of an hour there was a great blaze, and the flames spread rapidly along to our
when we saw smoke
right.
so
Beginning to think things did not look quite pleasant, we hurried on our animals, still not;
surmising that we were in danger but one thing we owned looked threatening, and that was that the wind showed indications of veering round, blowing
the north, then from the south, and never remaining consistent for five minutes.
one
moment from
As the flame increased
so did the wind, ending at last
These prairie fires destroy some game, but in a gale. not as much as might be expected, for every animal
smoke they But clear off into forests devoid of undergrowth. to return to this occasion. The fire had heretofore been
has his
own
run,
and at the
first
signs of
it spread to our right receding from us, but suddenly out to the left. The broke blaze fresh a then front, " maidan," some ten miles long by greater part of a Our in as almost width, was now ablaze. many and would not go straight, elephants became alarmed and round but hesitating, so the mahouts turning
kept
had to use the driving-hooks
freely to
make them
Mixed
advance.
Sport.
271
Kites and the small king crows were darting about, pouncing on grasshoppers and other insects which were disturbed by the conflagration, and how
these birds could live in such a fiery furnace was a
marvel, but they seemed impervious to its effects, swooping down on the insects until the flames seemed
While the reeds were bursting to envelop them. with reports like pistol shots, huge flakes of lighted matted matter were flying about, causing the fire in
our rear to break out afresh, and was overtaking us It now became a question of almost at railway speed. minutes as to whether we were to be overwhelmed
or not.
Shoay-jah said that a short distance ahead
was generally a pool of The wind water, and the ground was bare of grass. so a we had to crouch on our now became tornado,
was a brake, where there
realising their danger, were ambling along as fast as the nature of the ground would permit, but what is the speed of a racehorse
animals,
who
at
last
even to that of the devouring element ? If the tempest had blown either from behind or from either side
of us for five minutes consecutively, we must have been enveloped in its fiery embraces and been
destroyed but the very eccentricity of the wind saved us. Still the fiery element was fast overtaking us, and the heat was awful the flames licked round our heads, when
;
;
"
"
guddie
became
lighted, scorching the elephants
as well as ourselves.
Then there was a momentary
by an awful crash, as the leading his with elephant weight, bore down the creepers which lay between us and salvation. In a moment
stoppage, followed
after
we were beyond
the reach of the destructive
element.
No
one could have lived
over
few
272
minutes in the atmosphere we had just escaped from. Jumping off the elephants and lying prone upon the earth was the action of a moment, for heated air
ascends, so the surface of the ground is the coolest. " The fire in the " guddie was extinguished. few minutes after, we were able to get on our hands and
and crawl to the pool of so-called water. It was partly gruelly-looking mud, diluted with a large probut such as it was, we portion of buffalo urine threw ourselves into it, drank it greedily, and thought
feet
;
it
almost nectar.
it
When
look around,
was
fair.
sufficiently recovered to difficult to recognise individuals
for the whites were
burnt black and the natives had
become almost
laughing
;
Looking at Lloyd
burst out
he did the same when he looked at me.
Lloyd was a good-looking fellow, somewhere about twenty-six or so, and prided himself greatly on " a luxuriant moustache and a pair of Piccadilly And where were they ? for now he had weepers." neither, not even eyebrows or eyelashes, and the hair on the side of his head, up to the cap was I was a few years older, sported a pair frizzled off. of black whiskers, etc., but devil a hair had I left on my " phiz," while my hands and face were peeled. My skin, never very fair, was now a sickly white Nor had our colour like that of a beastly albino. attendants fared better, for the Burmese had lost their top-knots, and large blisters dominated over the naked portions of their bodies. As for the mahouts, their own mothers would not have acknowledged them they were transformed into some race utterly unknown to science. The state of the elephants was
:
Now
even worse
the soles of their feet were so scorched
Mixed
Sport.
273
that they could scarcely stand, and the end hairs of
had disappeared. To get back to Myet-chin was hopeless. Shoay-jah said about two miles off there was a village where we had better remain for the night, so we made for it, the beasts of burden limping At last we got along, and we in no better plight. hours to traverse four two miles. there, taking Fortunately, the food in our baskets was all right, but the beer on the pads had burst. Still, we had some claret under shelter, and although it is a tipple
their tails
I care
very
little
for,
yet that night
we thought
it
But where was the village we sought ? The fire had demolished every Utterly destroyed. were and the house, people searching in the ashes for their valuables, picking up here and there sticks which would serve again in the reconstruction of their frail edifices. Our lodge, a Zyat, situated under a peepul
delicious.
were thinking of fortunately escaped. adjourning there for the night, but the first rain of
tree,
We
the season burst upon us. It was a deluge. While the lightning beat the best displays of fireworks that I
ever saw, the thunder reverberated again and again and almost deafened us with its unequalled artillery. There was no help for it. We put the women and children under temporary shelter, and contented ourselves with such protection from the elements as could
be found.
broke.
Thankful enough were we
all
when day
The Burmese are a strange people, easily depressed and as easily elated. Over night they were despondent;
the sun rose they were jubilant almost, and singing, moving about as cheerfully as if nothinghad happened, and no one could realise that they were
as
274
homeless
far
and
almost destitute
of
food,
for
their
granaries even
off,
we
left
had been burnt. The river was not so, sending word for a boat to be provided, the elephants to recover, and walked to the
place of embarkation, so reached Myet-quin that night, for we found that by following narrow creeks, we could get within a mile of my bungalow, so there
was no need to go round by Banlong. We had still two weeks' leave, but what avail were they without so mounting our ponies and taking but a elephants few things with us, going round via Nouksedouk, we reached Tongho on the third day. Our wives would
;
Deprived of all hirsute scarcely acknowledge us. ornaments, blear of eye, burnt to a cinder, we might have been anybody except the " Simon Pures." The
more they looked at us in amazement the more we laughed, for Mrs. L. was staying with my wife, and we found them together when we turned up. The elephants did not arrive for fully twenty days, and a The pretty bill we had to pay the commissariat. " " next time I wanted to take the boy with me, he
" He not take service to be gave me warning, saying, burnt to death," but a clout on the head brought him to, and I am thankful to say that he did not again have such a narrow shave. Ultimately, he forgot
that fearful reminiscence, and remained with
me
for
Our bag years, and rose to be my head servant. that trip was sixty-four head of game and a burning. I
will
not
inflict
the whole diary on the reader, for one
day's shooting off elephants in another; sometimes of course,
Burma is very like we get more sport

re-
than on others, but there is always sufficient to ward one, although it is rather expensive work.
Mixed
Sport.
275
Besides the deer described, there are others such as the Mouse Deer (Memimna indica), a diminutive
creature found in
the
Tenasserim Provinces, but

proper.
never saw
it
in
Pegu
hcedus rutrida) is found also in was shot near the Duke of York's Nose, a mountain up the Salween, and one was caught swimming the
The Serow (Nemorthe hill ranges. One
Sittang river near Shoay-ghein.

closely-allied species, is
This beast, or a very also found in the hill ranges,
not very far from Gowhatty. Wild pigs are plentiful in Burma, but no one has succeeded in spearing them
but near Pagan Myo, where the ruins of thousands of pagodas are, I have seen
in the lower province,
in ridable ground. In Assam, below Doobree, they lie out in the open, and I have put up a tiger within fifty paces of a sounder. In the " churs,"
capital pig-sticking can be had as described elsewhere, but whilst chasing a boar you run a chance of being chased by a tiger. In fact a few years ago, a party
them
of hunters thus
beat a retreat.
met a tiger face Wild dogs are
to face
and had
in
to
Burma and Assam, but they
plentiful are very inferior in
both
appearance to the noble wild dog of the Neilgherry Jackals do not exist in Lower Burma, but I range.
have heard them near the
and the late Capt. Bosworth shot one near Meaday. Once or twice I think I saw them near Namyan. In Assam they
frontier,
are simply in thousands. At times the jackal utters a called the peculiar cry, pheeal, which is only a cry of
fear given utterance to,
a leopard. In the pigmy hog
when disturbed by a tiger or Assam we have the " hispid " hare,
a fine specimen of which I shot near T 2
276
the Monass
hills,
and a curious beast
in
the
Mishmee
called the takin.
The Spotted Deer (Axis maculatus).

tiful
This beau-
plentiful in many parts of India, but on both is only found in two localities in Assam banks of the Monass, and again in the Durung dis-
deer
is
trict.
McMaster,
"
:
of this deer
I don't
but so
it is,
that
I knew well, thus speaks know why it is or how it is, somehow there is a greater charm in
whom
the pursuit of spotted deer than of any other of the denizens of the bonnie brown forest or tangled jungle where it loves to dwell. I am not alone in this
feeling.
sportsmen, and some of them who have slain the mighty behemoth, taurus the bull, and
Many
even
the
feline
king
of
the
forest,
recall
with
pleasure the sport they have enjoyed after this less noble and timid creature." Its general colour is yellow or rufus fawn, with numerous white spots,
and a dark dorsal streak from the nape to the tail head brownish, and the muzzle dark chin, throat, and neck in front white lower parts and thighs internally ears brown externally, white within tail whitish white beneath. The basal line is directed longish, forwards, and in old individuals has often one or two points near the base. Whereever this deer is found
;
it is
Early in the day it feeds invariably gregarious. out in the open, but retires to the forest during the heat of the noon. The antelope exists in very many
places in India, but in Assam only near the Monass, principally in the south, but occasionally a few are found in the north. I have been present at two or " three hunts with chitas," or hunting leopards, but
Mixed Game.
can't say
I
277
The animal is sport in it. hooded and taken in a cart to a plain where antelope abound. When the cart has approached as near as it
see
much
can to the game without alarming them, the hood is The beast slips off the cart directly he taken off.
views his quarry, and crouching along on his belly gets as near as he can, which is seldom closer than
100 yards, when he makes his rush. His speed is almost incredible fast as is an antelope, he is far
;
faster for a short distance, so generally overtakes the buck within 150 yards. If he misses that chance, he
desists
;
if
he
stealthily, slips
keeper approaches him the hood over his eyes, gives him a
kills,
his
cup of blood to
cart.
lap,
and then reseats him
in the
CHAPTER
VIII.
PANTHERS AND LEOPARDS
(Asiatic).
SPORTSMEN and
there
is
naturalists
only one species of I have no doubt in my own mind that but more, although there is but one species in India, there are
"
have not agreed whether " or two, or even pard
two distinctly marked varieties of the same The larger is generally known as the panther.
Blyth, larger
a first-rate
authority,
states
beast.
"
that
the
is paler, with the spots more disposed in groups or rosettes, with not unfrequeiitly one and sometimes
even two small specks within these rings, and that the lesser, or leopard, is of a deeper coloured ground, with
the groups or imperfect rings of spots smaller, less subdivided, and thicker as regards the quantity of black they contain." Shaw says the leopard is distinguished from the panther by its pale yelloiv colour and is considerably the smaller of the two. This
coincides with
my own
two
in
view.
Besides
these
varieties,
there
is
the
snow
occasionally latter are The are with. met specimens only a lusus natures, and are found only in wellwooded countries, where the forests are extremely
leopard, found
the Himalaya, and
melanoid
sombre
in
hue,
where
they feed
principally
on
Panthers and Leopards
(Asiatic}.
279
monkeys, and climb trees in pursuit of them, so that nature has doubtless adapted their coat to suit the shades in which they reside, or otherwise they would
In be too conspicuous and so fail in obtaining food. Malaya, where the climate is very damp and the forests
luxuriant they are more frequently met. But isolated It is curious that cases crop up here and there.
whilst black leopards are heard of a black tiger l
;
met with, no one has ever and again while there are
occasional white tigers, I never encountered a white The size of the two leopard south of the Himalaya.
varieties
obtainable.
depends of course on the quantity of food The leopard is generally found in the
remoter
hills.
The panther
up
his
lives
more
in ravines in
the plains and preys upon cattle.
commences
to break
the panther or leopard or chest. The reason
prey always at the
tiger invariably at the hindquarters,
forequarters
for this peculiarity has not
yet been solved.
At Shillong, when we first went there, leopards were very numerous and no one could keep a dog. Major
Montagu, in twelve months, caught in a trap not far from his house, twelve leopards and one tiger. When wounded I consider a panther or leopard more
body aim at, while its activity is far The Assamese villages are many of them greater. straggling places, and have at times either a swamp
dangerous than a
smaller to
tiger, for it is as ferocious, its
much
Since writing the above I have read of a melanoid tiger having been killed near Chittagong, and was seen by Mr. C. T. Buckland. I have seen the skins of three albino tigers, the
finest at
Edwin Ward's, when he
lived in
Yere
Street,
and the
other two were obtained in the Cossyah
hills.
280
or a
cane-brake
in
their
nothing is more common up its abode in one of these places and to prey upon I have killed many of these their dogs and cattle.
animals, having shot them on foot, off elephants and out of "marts" or machans, and on one occasion I
locality of two families of man-eating panthers as described hereafter. I never " shot but one chita," the only one I ever came across
adjacent, and than for a leopard to take
midst or
was instrumental in ridding a
in the wild state.
Judging from the numbers of skins

whilst in East Africa, I should say
brought in to
the
me
chita, or hunting leopard, is far more plentiful The first panther I shot was at there than in India.
They were then very plentiful there, and scarcely a day passed without a " " kill of some sort taking place. The large Hooniman monkey was a frequent prey, and we used to find The panther portions of the victims very frequently.
Condapilly, while almost a
griff.
I killed
was a well-known one.

in
For
five or six years
everybody who had been
command
there had
endeavoured to rid the place of this beast, but withI had sat up for him a dozen times. out avail.
Mogul Beg, the shikarie, had been years, and although he had shot many
never
after
him
for
others, he
had
" " chor or thief, as the got a crack at the animal was christened. Sitting up for this notorious " animal over a " kill was useless, for he never returned
to his victim
but by the merest chance
discovered
that he generally followed a narrow footpath leading up the hillside, where he had his den, and down which he came nightly in search of prey. I have
said elsewhere that the old Mahrattas
this country for miles
had
fortified
around, the walls
connecting
Panthers and Leopards (Asiatic].
281
One of the bastions extending a great distance. these I noticed was close to the path in use by the panther I got a pariah dog, tied him tip within easy
;
shot, and ensconed myself behind the wall, having removed a stone or two to enable me to fire through. Sure enough he appeared and got shot. He measured
seven feet six inches.
MAN-EATING PANTHERS
(iNDIA).
the scourges afflicting a locality it is generally supposed that a man-eating tiger is the worst, but when leopards or panthers take to the same pracall
Of
tices
they are infinitely more to be dreaded.

animals.
I will
here relate one instance in connection with the last
named
I
had obtained two months'

"
I
camp, distant about seventy miles from Secunderabad on the Nirmul " road. I was going to join Verderer," an old friend of my father and a noted sportsman. Starting about
4 A.M., and halting only half-an-hour en route for refreshments, I reached my destination about dusk,
having sent on my ponies and horses,
kit
"
privilege leave, and " " dak of ahead, and laid a
rode out to
my
and found all in a state of confusion, my impedimenta still in the hackeries or carts, the bullocks put " " to, and all ready for a move. Why, how is this ?
'
'
asked
my
boy very
"
angrily.
"
Gurreeb purwah," he pitched and dinner ready ? " " we cannot remain shitan," here, there is a replied,
"
Why is
not the tent
who
kills
people every night, and fearful of your
honour's
life
we have everything ready

is
to go on to
the next village, which
but
five coss off,
and where
282

shall
we
"
be
safe."
"
You
infernal fool,"
I replied,
unpack
ride, I
fears.
at once. Do you think, after a seventy mile am going ten miles further, just to allay your Much you care for master it is for yourselves
;
that you are afraid. If the shitan does come, I hope he'll take you for your cheek in not having obeyed
orders.
"
'
'
Quick
I
;
cried,
raising
my
is
whip in a
not ready in
Orderly," I the meaning
"if everything threatening attitude an hour, I'll know the reason why." called out to my pattern man, "what
of this
"
?
"
is
Sahib, we got here last night, too late to pitch the tent, so we put up in a village hut, He told us placed at our disposal by the Cotwal. to bolt the doors and windows, and to have no light,
for there
"
was a shitan who prowled about killing and that in the last ten days he had lost ten people, Sahib, we people, and could find no traces of them. heard fearful noises all night, and were in fear of our lives. An hour before daybreak something lifted the thatch of the roof, and a couple of eyes, each of them the size of a full moon, looked down upon us, and our livers became like sieves, and in my fear I fired off master's shot gun, and the apparition disappeared. two people were But, Sahib, do not remain here killed and taken away last night, and it may be our
'
;
'
What sheer nonsense," I replied; turn to-night." " send for the Cotwal. But, boy, have the tent pitched at once, and if I don't get my dinner in an
I took off my clothes, hour, look out for squalls." got my syce to bring a lot of chatties of water, which I then put on clean night-clothes, I poured over me.
"
and getting into a comfortable easy- chair, waited for the arrival of the native official, and superintended
Panthers and Leopards (Asiatic).

the
283
pitching
of the
tent.
accompanied by
a posse of
before squatting down.
The Cotwal appeared, armed men, and salaamed It was now quite dark, but
numerous torches illuminated the darkness. u What " " I is this, Cotwal?" I asked. Sahib," he replied, cannot say, but some devil has taken to devastating
the country only three days ago I lost my only son. He was brave to distraction. He would have it that
;
it
was not a demon, but some animal, and he
sat
up
with Peermal, our shikarie, and said he would shoot it but we heard no report during the night, and in the morning my son had disappeared, and his com;
panion was found in the topmost branches of the tree, unable to give any account of what had taken place,
and he has been ever since a drivelling idiot. Sahib, we cannot remain here much longer, unless indeed,
your honour, by your magic, will relieve us of our enemy. Not a night passes without some one disappearing, and the whole village
"
;
is
in mourning."
"
is
it is some animal who agree with your son," I said the are Where killing people. your shikaries ? Bring
them
here."
;
"Sahib," he replied,
"we have
only
killed or spirited away, but they shall be at your honour's feet in a few minutes." "boy" then announced dinner, and I told the
three left
two have been
My
Cotwal to have the
men ready in half-an-hour. Whilst
partaking of my frugal meal, which consisted of Oxford sausages as they were then made not the apologies
and an egg currie and rice, washed down by a bottle of Bass' beer cooled in
they have since become
saltpetre,
I
servants all about the supaccounts posed agreed, beyond the fact that a person or two disappeared in the most
asked
my
devil.
No two
284
mysterious
way
daily, either
out
of the village at
night, or from the fields when they went to work. Of course, in accordance with native customs, every trifling act was exaggerated, and it was impossible
but one fact was unsome time past villagers had disappeared and no traces had been found of them. When the shikaries appeared, I again asked them all about it, and offered a reward of Es. 20 if they would sit up and account for the "devil." The amount offered was a small fortune to them, yet they
to
arrive at the exact truth

:
deniable
for
hesitated a good deal before accepting I was too tired to sit finally agreed.
in
it,
but they
up myself.
Although May is no joke, and every bone in my body ached, so devil or no devil, I determined to rest that night but before going to bed, I walked round the village. The country was open on three sides, and had been well cultivated, but on the fourth there was a belt of jungle, which led, I was told, into the heart of the noted Nirmul Forest. I obtained two sheep, which cost in those days from eight annas to ten annas each, and had them picketed some distance apart. We chose two tall trees, had a native charpoy or bed slung in each, on which the two natives took post, and then retired. I took the precaution of lighting several large bonfires round my own camp, and once in bed and tucked up inside the mosquito curtains I was fast asleep in a few moments afterwards, and did not awake till close on daybreak. My boy had the matutinal cup of coffee ready, and swallowing it, I We went sallied forth accompanied by my orderly. The sheep were to where the men had been placed.
;
good training, a seventy mile ride in
Pantkers and Leopards (Asiatic],

there untouched
;
285
the
men
nowhere
examined
the ground and the trunks of the trees, but could discern nothing. I began to suspect it was a plant that the Cotwal and villagers wanted to get rid of
me, and had got up this tale to frighten me but yet There was not again why should they do that ? much game in the neighbourhood, I should only remain a few days until I heard from " Verderer," and
in the
meantime
not a loss to them.
should be a source of profit and Why then try and get rid of me ?
Mysterious and unaccountable as were the disappearances, I
my mind to see it through. Three arrived my relays during the day. I had them picketed in camp to give them rest, intending
made up
of
send them the next day further on, so as to be able to get over the ground more quickly in getting
to
to
my
destination.
put the remaining shikarie
and the orderly, both well armed, on the tree from which the watchers the night before had disappeared, and took up my position in the other. There was no moon, or a very young one, and I heard not the slightest noise. Fagged and tired, bitten with mosquitoes, I was off my perch at the dawn of day, and going to the other tree, found the orderly and the shikarie all right. I made sure it was all nonsense, and went to the tent and sent for the Cotwal. He was nowhere to be found. There was a hole in the roof of his house, and though asleep with two wives in the same room, neither of whom had been disturbed, their lord and master was non est ! Then there was a hullabaloo and no mistake. The villagers packed up their goods and said they would remain there no longer. Nothing I could say would deter them.
286
camp-followers were almost in open mutiny, If the people left, there frightened out of their wits. was no use in my remaining. I had come for sport,
My own
not to exorcise evil
spirits,
but somehow
was most
anxious to ascertain the cause of these disappearances. I asked if there were tigers about, and was told a few,
besides, they did not climb trees. Were there panthers ? None, as far as they knew. There were no rocks or hills near. About a mile from
;
but not man-eaters
stream which ran past the village, the Nirmul jungle commenced, but in it there were only sambur, neilghye, a few tigers, spotted deer, and further on, gaur. It was not the kind of country to which the smaller felines were partial. I sent off a " " note to Verderer by my orderly, mounting him on a pony of mine, explaining that I was anxious to
the small
ascertain the cause of the disappearance of the people,
and asking him to wait for me one week or ten days, and packing up my goods too, I accompanied the villagers to their new home, which was about ten It was a straggling place inhabited by miles off. wood-cutters, who gladly welcomed the newcomers, and whilst I pitched my tent at the entrance of the village, the people erected temporary huts for themIn this new village selves some little way beyond. I had a private conthere was an intelligent shikarie. fab with him, and asked him if he could account for the disappearance of the people from the village we had left that morning. He said, from my description,
it
could only be caused by devils or panthers.

'
"
If the
depend upon it, Sahib, they people here, and we had better erect marts about half a mile off, on the path you followed this morning,
latter,
'
will follow the
287
and lie in waiting for them." I agreed, and he went off with a couple of men to get them ready. A " mart" may be either in a tree off the ground (then usually
styled a machan), or hollowed out of the ground, a shallow circular pit being dug and the earth raised a
little
round, with a few clods left here and there, to prevent the person sitting up being too conEach has its advantages. Raised off the spicuous.
all
is safer,
ground one
but when beasts approach a
kill
Perthey are very apt to look up and gaze around. have been fired at from before such a haps they coign of vantage, and if they see the slightest suspicious dis-
arrangement of the foliage, they quickly disappear, but they seldom look around on the ground, trusting
probably to their acute sense of smell to detect a hidden foe. We sat up that and the following night
without being disturbed, and the people were getting

reassured and
I
was thinking of going on, when the
wife of one of the peons disappeared. So that night the shikarie and I took up our position extra early. were almost a quarter of a mile from the village.
We
On the right side going from it, there was a small clearance where we were, and the little moon there
was, shone
upon us for about three hours. The jungle was pretty dense, consisting of thorny bushes adjoining
I am sorry to say the about six or seven feet high. man with me was not as brave as he had been. The
stories
he had heard, coupled with the disappearance of the woman, told upon his nerves, and he had
got that tantalising sort of half- cough half- expectoration, which one so often notices in a native who is half
afraid at a critical
all sport, as it
moment, and which generally ruins gives warning to any wild beast who
288
be approaching your cdache. Whilst we had the moonlight he was not so bad, but about ten his cough
may
became
so incessant that I
of whisky to instil
gave him a pretty stiff go some pluck into him, and then bade
down and go to sleep, whilst I took the first watch. Wrapped up in his cumbley he was soon fast I kept my weary vigils. whilst asleep, Every now and
him
lie
then a prowling hysena or a jackal's pit-a-pat on the

dried or decaying leaves would set my heart beating a little faster, and with cocked rifle I would lie on the
expecting to see something worth powder and ball, only to be disgusted and to inwardly mutter a few curses, deep but not loud, on their accursed heads.
qui
vive,
awoke my assistant, bidding him keep sharp look-out, which I thought his fears would compel him to do. I in my turn lay down with my rifle, a 14 double, cocked by my side, and enveloped in my black blanket I was soon fast asleep, and had
About three
been asleep probably for an hour, when I suddenly awoke with a feeling of danger upon me. I was I trembling all over, but I had my wits about me.
face, and peered carefully moved the blanket off about. The shikarie had fallen forward fast asleep for a second or more I saw nothing further, then over
my
the
I
mound of earth which had been piled up round us, saw indistinctly the devilish head and then the glaring eyeballs of some black beast taking count of The shikarie gave a slight snore and moved the us. eyeballs were diverted in that direction and taken off me. Without sitting up, but lying full length on my
;
back, I
front,
moved
I
the
rifle,
pointing
it
and
just as he brought back his
at the object in form to bear
upon me,
pulled the triggers both together.
A lurch
289
forward and a heavy mass fell upon me, throwing up the same moment a mass of half-digested beastliness,
and rendering me
in
my
turn as sick as the vomiter.
My
sable companion, thoroughly awakened at the double report so close to his ears, jumped up with a
and seeing a black mass on me thought I was seized by the devil, so took to his heels and ran for his It took me some time to release myself from the life. incubus and to get rid of the filth as far as I could. I then found that my antagonist was a black panther
yell,
of the largest size

its
throwing
my
cumbley aside with
abominable contents, I dragged the panther into the obscurity of the jungle, and as it still wanted an hour and a half to daylight, reloading the rifle as
quickly as I could, I remained where I was. In half an hour the village was astir, and I concluded the people were coming in search of me, and almost wished them
to
the
devil,
for
felt
certain
there were
other
panthers about, and hoped
to get another shot, but
I was just on the despaired when I heard the noise. of rifle and point going to meet the half-cocking my
villagers,
when
saw two shadowy forms gliding past,
took to be a pair of panthers and I gave them both a right and left. There was no response, but
which
the
first villagers
pulled up, afraid to advance, thinking
pounce upon them, and then, hearing my voice to hurry up, they ran up in a body, and with the aid of their torches, I ascertained that I had wounded one of the panthers badly.
Telling the people to pick to the tent, threw off
there might be a
wounded beast
to
up the one dead,

soiled raiment
hurried
linen,
my
and
'
and after a good scrubbing down felt a and donning fresh clothes, I partook of
bit sweeter,
my
u
'
chota
290
I asked the shikarie hazaree," or early breakfast. what the deuce he meant by bolting away and leaving me in the lurch, and the poor fellow, all in a tremble,
for
he expected a thrashing
first,
for
having gone to
sleep during his watch, and, secondly, for deserting me said he had been thoroughly demoralised by all the stories he had heard, and so hearing the report of
and seeing me as he thought in the clutches of the devil, he had run a.way and was coming back
my
rifle
with the villagers to my rescue. me fire they were glad to find me
When
safe,
they heard
would forgive him. I something to eat, and to collect as many coolies as he could, and I would follow up the other brute as soon as there was sufficient daylight for that purpose. The villagers on collecting found a man missing, and
and hoped I told him to run away, get
before I could get them to act with me, they insisted on searching the jungle close to the village. In half
an hour the remains of the poor fellow were found. He had been taken out of his house and dragged
some way off and partially eaten, and buib for my first two shots, would no doubt have been entirely demolished and the bones scattered, but the man-eaters had been disturbed and were doubtless en route to
their lair
his
when I fired the second shots. Leaving sorrowing widow and children and two of the
people to cremate his remains for he was a Hindoo I went off to take up the trail. Judging from the
blood marks which were scattered on both sides of

the narrow path along which he had crawled, I came to the conclusion that the beast had been shot through
the abdomen, and expected to come upon moment, but the vitality of these animals
him every
is
marvel-

lous,
291
and
followed mile
upon mile
for I should say
four or five miles almost in a straight line.
The
trail
then turned into the densest jungle, through which it was impossible to go upright, so I had to crawl
upon
all
fours
and every now and then came upon
the half-digested remains of the native which the The stench along this path brute had thrown up.
was awful, covered with their excreta, bones and human remains. I knew, therefore, we were not far from their lair and stronghold. This tangled brake only extended about three-quarters of a mile, and then we entered a glade which was covered by an immense banyan tree and its offshoots. I should that it and its belongings covered ten or twelve say It was impossible to distinguish the parent acres. stem from those which had grown from it many, probably the oldest, had decayed away, but sufficient remained to show that this extraordinary growth had its origin in one tree, which throwing out feelers from the pendant branches had taken root, became in their turn the trunk, and so went on multiplying until this huge space was entirely under shade of one tree and its satellites, as there was very little undergrowth. The path made during many years by these bloodthirsty felines was clear enough, leading to two old hollow trunks into which the wounded panther and his companion had crawled. Man-eaters are generally How many there were I did not know, cowards. So bidding the but I determined to burn them out. all the collect brushwood people dry they could, I mounted guard over the one which, by the drops of blood which had fallen, I guessed held the wounded
;
beast.
U 2
292
a fine pile of old decayed wood and dry brambles collected round each trunk and had them soon alight. The outside of the
In a couple of hours
we had
trunks themselves was old and rotten and blazed
Soon we could hear growls and groans and smothered cries an attempt too was made by one of the beasts to break through the fire, but One got through on to a the heat drove it back. a shot but branch, brought it down and it fell into the bonfire and was consumed in a few moments. The smoke became dense, the noises in the interior became less and less, and as the fire began to die out,
away
right merrily.
which
it
did as soon as
We dragged away the debris and found in one tree the remains of two full-grown panthers and three young ones, besides the charred In bones of the one that had fallen off the branch.
the other there were, as far as full-grown and four young ones.
locality of
portion of the tree, eaters were no more.
reached the solid green we knew that the horde of manit
we could judge, So we had rid
four
that
fifteen panthers, every one of a man-eater or would grow up to which was either
no
less
than
become
one.
The remains
of
human
beings were
numerous, for we counted no less than twenty-seven skulls. These we collected and burnt, and then returned to the village. Suffice to say that I remained
So there a week, during which no one was missing. the people who had migrated, returned to their
deserted homes, and
kind.
I
went on
weeks'
"Verderer," and had six
Hingolie, met sport of a varied

to
Spearing
Game
out of Boats.
293
SPEARING ANIMALS OUT OF BOATS DURING INUNDATIONS.

a sport, I should say, peculiar to Assam and portions of tropical Africa. The Assamese, although a
This
is
debased and cowardly race, yet join in this method
The Cacharies, when they take to of netting game. these modes of sport, far excel the Assamese, from
their superior
fine
old fellow at Burpettah
physique and pluck, and there was a who was credited with
having killed over 100 tigers. Eeceiving a letter from Campbell, at Burpettah, saying that the country was completely under water, and that he was going
to have a
got into my boat and was with him the evening before the appointed date. The next morning there were assembled fully
I
hunt on a certain day,
fifty boats,
six
to ten persons.
these holding according to their size from Each man was armed with a
dhaw, something like the two-handed swords of the Burmese. The head man stood at the front, spear in hand, and several more spare ones were laid in the
bottom of the craft an experienced man held the tiller. C. went in one boat, I in another, and at a. given signal away we went racing over the submerged plain, which resembled a vast lake, with small islands The noise the (telahs or prominences) dotted about. made was I took an old breechpeople deafening. loader with me. C. was used to the sport, and was accoutred like the Assamese even to a sparcity of clothing. I too had on very little raiment, for going at the rate we did, the water splashed over and rapidly soaked us. A few cartridges in a waterproof bag I carried, and
;
though assured
should not require to use the gun,
294
I
thought it just as well to be armed in case of need. Soon the fleet was scattered, every boat making for an
islet.
had the old
tiger- slayer
with me.
He was
brawny old fellow, about sixty, but still hale and hearty and his muscular arms, deep broad chest, and well-developed thighs and legs denoted no small amount of strength. He laughed at my carrying a gun, as he said it would not be required, and if we were upset I should probably lose it but it was of no great value, for it had seen its best days. We went on for fully three miles, and approached a large mound, fully 150 yards long by 50 broad, and covered with long grass the noise we made evidently startled some animals, for we could see the grass waving about the shouts were redoubled, and the poor
a
3
;
beasts, thinking,
no doubt, that the very devil himself was let loose, took to the water. They proved to be five marsh-deer four hinds and a brocket. Away and swam a were at but overtaken they great pace,
slain
by the old man.

called,
A tender,
us,
took the carcases on board.
which accompanied The sport, if it could
was as yet very tame. I did not admire seeing hinds and immature stags pierced to death when helpless and swimming for their lives but I was merely a spectator and could not we]l interfere. We then went towards other islets. Some were uninhabited, but out of others a few hog-deer were started and duly accounted for. Of course there was not a
be so
;
universal depth of water it varied in accordance with the undulations of the country. One moment we would
;
be in deep water going six or seven miles an hour, then we would be suddenly aground and all but thrown
out of the boat by the unexpected shock.
Thus a couple
Spearing
of hours passed,
astern. for
Game
out of Boats.
left
295
and Burpettah was
a long
way
it
Ultimately we got
into a creek,
went up
about two miles and then emerged sea. Out of one islet a very large stag, with good horns, and two does took to the water, and we
inland
after them.
into another
We
were warned of the approach to a
shallow by seeing the deer galloping along and splashbut ing the water so as almost to conceal them
;
beyond that there was deep water again, and they also were killed. The next game that we slew were a whole sounder of hog, whose flesh the Cacharies are very fond of, so they also were added to the bag. The tender by this time was almost gunwale under water, so it was sent back, and another boat imcould see other boats its place. also were pretty well that so knew they returning, laden. By this time we were in what in Burma "
pressed to take
We
would be termed a quin," a vast plain surrounded by forest, but submerged. I saw the old man change his spear, which was somewhat blunted, and after inspecting several and feeling their points, choose a
sharp one.
buffaloes.
He
told
me we
should
now probably
noises,
;
see
After the
usual
diabolical
out
rushed, open-mouthed, two rhinoceros if they could have got at us I have no doubt we should have felt
the effects of their sharp tusks, but seeing a boat full of men all yelling together, they changed their tactics
and swam
for their lives.
but the old
man would
I proposed to shoot them, We were not listen to it.
soon alongside of the pursued, the keen razor-like blade was repeatedly thrust by the stalwart arm, blood poured forth and dyed the water around us.
The pachyderm opened
his
jaws, but was helpless,
296
That cruel blade was thrust again and again, and in minutes he turned over dead, and would doubtless have sunk, but a rope was quickly attached to one leg and he was towed into shallow water and there left,
five
while
we made up leeway by
dear
life.
We rapidly came
it
energetic paddling as if for up with the second animal,
who was then within 100 yards

reached,
it
;
of dry land, which

;
would have escaped but it had no chance helpless, so was soon defunct. Having secured the rhinoceros, a fresh spear was now chosen, and we continued our course. Several more deer were now killed. The horns of some of the stags were particuwas
larly good, the velvet having only lately peeled off. Soon after we got into a series of shallows, and our
boat got aground every few minutes,
the only real danger occurs, for no animal, however vast its strength or ferocious its nature, has a chance of doing
in deep water, but in shallows it often turns to bay, and natives not infrequently have then been killed. had gone as far into the Terai as
when
mischief
when
We
the
inundations
allowed, and were returning

still
circuitous
see,
when
rifle,
my
route, skirting every at last a tiger was started. I full- cocked for if wounded and we went aground, the
islet
by a we could
I knew would The old man speared charge. the and a roar felt it, tiger gave ground at the same moment in an instant he turned upon us fortu-
animal
nately
was pretty deep, The veteran now made a vicious thrust, broke his spear and went overboard head over heels, but dived under the boat, and coming up on the other side scrambled in, and was back in his place " in a minute with his dhaw" in his hand. I was on
it
still
was
so
our boat
quickly backed.
Spearing
Game
out of Boats.
297
the point of firing, but the old fellow begged me not to. By this time the tiger had seized the prow of the boat
and was attempting to scramble into it, but just as The luck would have it he got out of his depth. old Cacharie, raising himself to his full height, brought down the powerful weapon with all his might, and
fairly
brained the beast, the dhaw sticking in the gaping wound. The victim gave a few gasps and sank,
but was quickly recovered, was dragged to a sand" " tender had by this time arrived, bank, and as the the carcase was deposited in it by the joint exertions
some dozen men. It was a magnificent specimen, and I had the skull with the dhaw imbedded in it for some years. After this, we got a hog-deer or two,
of
when we were within
a couple of miles of Burof a herd buffaloes were started. For some pettah, way the water was shallow, so the quarry soon got
far ahead,
but the people knew the nature of the country and what they were about, so using their utmost strength and keeping well away from the
shallows, they were alongside the game almost as soon as the animals had commenced to swim. The spears were not as sharp as they ought to have been in
we had met with more game than had been so the most valuable weapons had become anticipated blunted and the others were of inferior quality. Thus
truth
the o]d
man was
not as successful as usual and rather

;
so it took considerable time to bungled his work kill three cows. These matrons dispatched, we made for the bull with him were about a dozen more.
;
Having chase was renewed the bull had been prodded twice when we ran on to a very bad mudbank and stuck
;
called for the assistance of other boats, the
298
fast,
and the bull also scrambled up on to the ground over which he had foothold then he turned round and came at us our men tried to back into deep water, and then sprang over the further side of the boat into the flood, and I fired a hurried shot, but the
;
;
the old man, the boat and I were lifted and tossed into the air. Nevertheless I stuck bodily up to my gun, but the cartridge-bag had disappeared. The bull took no notice of us, but vented his spleen on the craft, attacking it furiously and turning it over and over. Of course, I and the men thought discretion the better part of valour, so swam off into He swam until he greater depth not so the old man.
;
next instant
got behind the

his
"
dhaw
"
then crept up and with one blow of hamstrung the animal and it fell. Then
bull,
the veteran hunter gave a yell which savoured more of a demon's than of a man's voice.
Campbell's party had met with greater success than even we, as far as the number killed went, but they had not seen a tiger or any rhinoceros. I
joined in two
other
hunts of this nature in conto say
secutive years, but

again.
am happy
was not tossed
NETTING GAME IN ASSAM.

This
India,
mode of and when
sport is also in vogue in Southern " the Old Forest Kanger," Captain
first
Campbell of Skipness,
described
it, it
was openly
disbelieved, although every word that distinguished sportsman and soldier wrote is the truth, the whole
truth,
and nothing but the

occurrence
;
truth.
In Assam
it is
of
common
every village possesses nets and
Netting
Game
in
Assam.
299
entraps not only deer, but leopards, bears, tigers and " even ponderous buffaloes. I had read the Old Forest
as a boy, but never thought that I should see the sport he so graphically described, yet in
"
Ranger
my
very first year in Assam I met a party going to hunt For many days before with nets, and joined them.
the hunt commences, the natives
mark down the game
they want deer, &c., capture young buffalo
for meat,
heifers,
but they also like to which they tame and
put along with their so-called tame herds, but which

I promised them are in reality more than half- wild. Es. 20 if they showed me good sport. On this
they held a consultation, and said that day they could only catch deer, as there was no other game in the
plain where their operations were to take place, but if I would wait a few days, they would surround a
herd of buffaloes and perhaps a tiger or two, and show me how they managed their work. I did not care
to see helpless deer cut, mangled, and speared, so went after florikan and black partridge, and amused
myself by hunting over the adjoining country with

various success.
On
also
the third day after, a villager
informed
buffaloes
me
and
that they had surrounded a
herd of
some tigers, and proposed to have the drive on the morrow. I was willing, so my traps were soon on the elephants and I got into the howdah and by 2 P.M. I was in a Nam-ghur, 1 close to a village some fifteen miles distant from my former camp. Before daylight I was up, but the were even earlier, for over a hundred men villagers carrying nets had gone on ahead, while fully fifty more followed with other nets, made of jute cord, the
1
These contain
idols,
but are also used as rest houses.
300
size of
my
little
finger
the former formed as
it
were
The first parallel, the latter the second. would entangle anything from a hog- deer to a tiger, but the second were placed only for such heavy
first
the
animals as buffaloes, etc., about fifty feet beyond the first. These nets are never more than eight feet high
;
they are pitched, supported by bamboos, and pegged down at the bottom, so when they receive a blow,
they
fall
forward and entangle everything within their
compass.
close by,
Men, and boys even, are placed in ambush whose business it is to rush forward and to
administer to entangled beasts the coup de grace. If this network is broken through, the watchers rush to
the second line and crawl under
it
until they are
on the right side. It is seldom that anybody is hurt. The nets enclosed a vast space, and when I was posted they had built a machan for my accommodation, which I declined to use the usual tomtoming and cholera-horn blowing took place. As the game was driven forward, so the nets in the rear were
The pushed on, curtailing the circle gradually. watchers were armed with spears and dhaws, and lay prone on the ground under any shelter they could find sufficient to conceal their bodies. In half an hour
our
circle
had diminished considerably, a few deer

slain,
showed, were entangled and
the
nets
being
immediately afterwards rehoisted. Feints for a dash were made, but the beasts lost heart perhaps they
scented blood, or the natives in front they were odoriferous enough, I am sure, for the Assamese and
Cacharies are not a clean people like the Burmese and broke back, but finding more men in the rear than
in the front, they ultimately
made
a determined
move
Netting Game in Assam.

forward.
301
Down went
the nets
more than a dozen
animals, and amongst them a bear, were entangled. These dispatched, the nets were hastily re-erected,
when
commotion of no common order proved that there were some animals which had not yet put in an appearance. A tigress at one point, and a threea
parts-grown cub at another,

latter
now made
;
a rush
the
was easily killed by two men, but the former had only two lads opposed to her still they did their devoirs right well, and gave the foe "many a stab, but had not strength enough to drive the blades home. Of course I hurried up, armed with a breechloader. I thought a rifle more effective than any spear, but The tigress tore, bit, the lads wanted no assistance. and struggled until she had got her head and one
forearm through the netting, when I thought it quite time to interfere, and going up to her I put a ball through her head. While this was going on at one
point, many buffaloes had stampeded over the first line and were entangled in the second, which they
carried a considerable
way with them
in their impetus.
Finding I was no longer required at the inner circle, I hastened to the outer, where I found at least fifty
natives stabbing bulls and full-grown cows, whilst others were passing nooses over the legs of the calves
and
was very powerful, the meshes him a native approached the brute incautiously, and in consequence got tossed only the forehead had struck him, but he was pitched a good twenty yards, and in alighting he fell against the stump of a tree which fractured his thigh. With two balls I killed the enraged beast. Had he got loose I have no doubt he would have killed
heifers.
One
bull
of the net burst before
302

lie
several people, for

state.
it
was in a desperately frenzied

;
then went back into the inner enclosure in we found a bear cub, and of all the beasts leastI
These are repulsive expected two porcupines. animals to look at, but very clean feeders, and if properly cooked are not to be despised as an article
of diet.
It
over, after
was fully twelve before this beat was which we had two more essays, but with
the exception of deer we got nothing. Very often when a tiger is surrounded, word is sent to the petty into these rajahs, for whom tall machans are built
;
they climb, the victim's death often being delayed for a day or two. Though a tiger could spring over
the nets easily, he never attempts to do
so.
In
my
own tea-garden I entrapped two leopards and again a tigress by means of nets, and killed them without
difficulty.
The sport looks supremely dangerous,

it is
but in reality
not
so.
A REMINISCENCE OF EAST AFRICA.

to the courtesy of an acquaintance I had made in
Thanks
Arab
proprietor,
I
whose
fifteen
Mombasa,
obtained
number
of his slaves to
accompany me on a
days' trip into the interior.
Crossing over from the island, I pitched my camp I had tinned provisions with about a mile inland.
me, but wishing to economise them as far as possible, I took my gun, and having about two hours' daylight There are small took a stroll to the southward.
villages about,
but very
little
cultivation
still
there
is
Traversing some, and a little grain the dry bed of a watercourse, I followed a native path
I
found standing.
Sport in East Africa.

for
303
about half a mile, and then turned to the left towards some enclosures of " dhurra." I had scarcely
entered the
first
when
a florikan got
up
only winged
it,
and
an
as it could not fly, it ran across the fields and Keloading, I ran after it, going adjoining plain.
good pace, when up got about twenty guinea fowls in a covey. They were so close, that to miss them seemed impossible, so I fired rapidly at the
at a
r largest cluster, expecting that five or six w ould drop at least, but did not bring down either a bird, or even a
feather.
My second barrel however was more effective,
and one toppled over, but it was only winged, and when I went to pick it up, it had disappeared. To lose a florikan, then to miss a lot of guinea fowl, then to fail to find a bird knocked over, were " " enough to rile a saint, and I felt about as amiable I commenced to search as a bear with a sore head. about in every direction, using two of the natives
with
me
as beaters.
Presently
we
started the lesser
bustard, which had been hiding in a small clump of long grass, and it ran for its life, so closely pursued by the native that I could not fire, but gave chase too, thinking it might turn and give me a shot but it went straight on and disappeared, and the African
;
Seeing him disgot a header into a blind nullah. I head over heels, pulled up just in time to appear
avoid a similar fate.
Turning sharply off to the right, I ran along the banks of the nullah looking out for some declivity by which I could descend to its bed, but I had to go some little way before I could find I then saw a tiny path made the means of crossing.
probably by some of the small antelope so common it ended at the bottom, at in this part of Africa
;
304
the brink of a deep pool of water, and not wishing to get wet, I was looking for a means of going round
when my attention was attracted by a slight movement in the bush, not more than twenty yards
it,
had a charge of No. 4 shot in both barrels, examining the spot for a moment or two, I saw a dusky form and a pair of eyes looking at me. No sooner had our eyes met, than it saw that it was discovered, rushed out of the bush and bounded up the bank, exposing its flank. The right
off.
and
after intently
enough but these little deer have wonderful vitality, and it was not until it had reached the top of the bank and got the contents of my left barrel, that it toppled over and lay in the agonies of death almost on the very spot whence it had started. As I could see no way of getting round the pool, I was about to wade across, when my native appeared on the opposite side, some way down, waving the florikan which he had secured. Bidding him keep on till opposite to me, I pointed out the deer, and pretending that it was still alive he cut its throat, otherwise the meat would not have been lawful for He then shouldered it and a Mussulman to eat. and waded across as he was the into pool plunged considerably taller than I, and the water reached to his arm-pits, I thanked my stars that I had remained
barrel caught
it
fairly
on
my own
side.
The native was not overburdened with
clothes,
he
soon wrung out his waist-cloth, and, taking up the slain, we were retracing our way to the camp, when
where the guinea fowl had fallen and put it up it ran like a raceAs I fired horse, but a snap shot brought it down.
to the spot I took a cast round,
coming

;
305
up got three more this time I held the gun straighter and dropped one dead. Going through the long
it up, I heard a hiss stepping backa adder's avoided strike, it was not wards, puff just three feet off, and as I never spare a snake, I did not
grass to pick
I
hesitate to
blow its head to pieces, I then picked up my bird and reached the tent just at dark. Finding so much small game about, I determined I had brought some cooked to halt here for a day. viands with me, amongst them some currie puffs, and washing them down with a bottle of Beck's lager beer, I was soon tucked up in one of Edgington's swing cots, and slept the sleep of the weary up to
4 a.m.
;
then seeing the morning star high up,
called the people,

coffee, I was ready went towards the
and
after a
wash and a cup

This time
I
of
I
to sally forth again.

east,
and found
worst possible direction, for game to be found there. I got a hare, it is true, but it had little flesh on its bones and though I trudged along, first east and then south, not far from
;
had taken the there was little or no
I only saw a few quail and a partridge or and those out of shot. As it was getting hot two, and I saw no prospect of sport, I turned homewards, In this, going across some old cultivated fields. a few I loaded with small shot and quail, putting up I then came to a belt soon had half-a-dozen brace. I had scarcely entered it when up of jungle. got I bowled over a eight francolins, fine large birds. couple, and they were added to the bag. By beating
the sea,
amongst bushes
in pairs, several
in the long grass, I put up, singly or
brown partridges, and got four. They
are easy enough to hit but require a deal of killing.
306

;
bird I thought I had missed it flew across a nullah and over an open space, apparently unhurt, when it gave a lurch and rolled over dead, fortunately " close to a solitary toddy tree," otherwise we should
One
probably have lost

I
it.
camp about eleven, had breakfast, a then ordered the tent to be struck and and snooze, all hands to be ready to move about five, as I wished to go a short distance off and incamp in a garden belonging to the Arab who had lent me my I only took one man with me, and started followers. I went across a plain covered with about 3 P.M. bushes towards a patch of mimosa and long grass After a trees, but for a long time I saw no game.
got to
while
did see several antelope well out in the open, but on searching my pockets I could find neither ball
I
nor slug cartridges.
had two exactly

small
alike.
had put on the wrong coat. In one I had cartridges
for
game
shooting, in the
other for larger beasts,
such as deer, &c. quarters with shot
my
To fire at them except at close is wanton cruelty so, disgusted at own carelessness, I had to leave them alone, and
;
tried for
small game.
saw at
least three
if
not
four varieties of antelope, but all were out of shot. I then got into bush jungle, and there too, the deer
but they are antelope of course, were there being no deer in this part of Africa wretches would bolt on the plentiful, but the knowing
I
call
so,
them
the left and vice versa, so for right side if I were on had wandered further a long time I got nothing.
We
to
than
thought, and
far in
was about
to retrace
when
the
distance
the right
file,
my steps, saw my
for
in single people moving along
making

cocoanut grove about a couple of miles off. men, anxious to get drink, were hurrying
collect
307
The
off to
toddy, which
is
always procurable in such
had moved camp earlier than shambas," ordered, and if I had not fortunately seen them I should have gone back to camp for nothing, and they would have been hopelessly drunk by the time I I had by this time got to a sort overtook them. of bund or dam which forms a kind of breakwater " to a hollow, which in the rains is a jheel." Using I a and noticed the binoculars, my country, scanning narrow path which apparently led to the same destination or thereabouts, to which my camp was
and
bound, so
could, as
I
"
hurried along in order to get there, if I soon as or very soon after my people.
so
But the way was not

there
were
ravines
to
smooth cross and
as
it
looked
much
broken
Fortunately the man with me had been employed in that very shamba, and, anxious to get his share of drink with the others, as I thought, he
ground.
went merrily along, but

delay
I fear his object
was more to
me
than to accelerate
my
arrival, so as to give
his confreres time to secure the toddy before I got in. Be that as it may, he took me a roundabout
for close as the grove appeared to be, it was fully eight o'clock before I got to the hut, accommodation. On which had been arranged for
way
after
all,
my
servant, a low caste Madrassie, a goodasking enough boy when sober, why he had not waited for me to return to camp before moving, he audaciously
my
had ordered him to go on as the things were packed, and the Africans being in the plot, swore so As this was their first offence I let them off with too.
asserted I
x 2
308
a "jobation." I knew the liquor had been secured and that an orgie would follow, so told them if I was
disturbed during the night by any quarrelling or fighting or other noises, I would flog them all round.
than every living soul went to a tope about half a mile off, and there, I have no doubt, kept it up all night. In the morning
in,
No
sooner had I turned
none of them were fit for work, all complaining of fever, and sitting wrapped up in their blankets, So I went out alone, telling shivering in the sun. them I should move camp at two and, if they were not fit to march then, I should return to Mombasa and hand them over to their master. I had gone about a mile, when I heard a guinea fowl calling, and secured a brace out of the first lot, and three out of the second. I then turned off to an open space, thinking to pick up some quail, but at its very
edge up got a lovely francolin, as large as a pheasant,
was lucky enough to secure. On examining my prize I found it a very handsome bird, with the neck and body feathers pencilled. I picked up a few quail further on, and as they got up by twos the shooting was pretty. Having as much game as I cared for, I tied it to my waistbelt, and with the gun over my shoulder, but at full cock, so as to be ready
which
I
for
any chance that might arise, I made for camp. Near a dry nullah, with a " cuk-cuk-cuk," a large bird rose as I fired up got a lot of guinea fowl I killed right, and left. My first bird was another description of francolin, but dusky in plumage, and though not as handsome as the first, fully as large. Not knowing whether these birds were rare or not, I hurried on, so
; ;
as to preserve the skins before
we moved camp.
309
mens
got through the job in good time, but lost the speciafter all, as my people left them out in the
rain,
heavy dew and

useless.
I
the
skins
rotted
and were
though
of
I
never saw any like them afterwards, have been told by a lay missionary, who is
also a capital sportsman, that
he had shot very
many
them
at times
and
in different localities in Africa.
led the way, one of the

till
men
acting as guide, and

after
from two
five
we went through shamba
shamba
(plantations) of cocoa-nuts, mangoes are in this part of Africa, as well as Lakoja
(which
on the
Niger, most excellent and bear three crops a year, so that a tree is never without this delicious fruit), and manioc so as I was told there was a scarcity
;
of water ahead,
we camped on
the edge of the plateau.
Ahead of us there was a rolling and undulating plain, covered here and there with thorny bushes, long grass, and now and then with dwarfed mimosa, Indian bauwhich yields the gum arabica of commerce. The country was cut up by ravines, and must be very even now I could difficult to cross in the rains discern a distant pool here and there. I asked if there was any game there, but was told not at that season later on there would be herds and herds of
bul,
;
;
various antelope, the

I
hideous hartebeeste predom-
inquired about the road to Shimba, where inating. I was going, and was told there was nothing to be
Following the native path, it would take us a good twelve hours' marching to get there. The hills were right in front of us, could we not get
shot en route.
there direct
No we short cut across country ? must follow the native paths. Seeing water about, I
by a
;
thought
if
we went past
the pools
we might
find
game, as there were no inhabitants, and the country looked favourable for antelope. But the natives with
me
it was impossible to go off the beaten had just finished dinner, and was taking it easy, when a string of some five or six men approached, armed with bows and arrows and laden with meat. I at once got hold of my interpreter, and after giving
declared
I
track.
round, questioned the leader. At first he was very reticent, but another of glass gin and a view of a few gorgeous handkerchiefs loosened his tongue, and Andrew, my interall
the strangers a tot of grog
preter
and
a very good lad, who had been fairly educated brought up by the missionaries informed me
that the that day
game they had with them had been

off.
killed
near a pool not five miles their head man to attach himself to
asked
me
for a
few
sell
days, but he said he must go into Mombasa to the meat at once, or it would be tainted and
unsaleable.
I
be
him to send it in with the others, who could return and meet us at any place he chose
told
to appoint, and, after a long confab, and a present of three handkerchiefs to himself and a couple to each
of the others, agreed to take

it
and a promise of more
hereafter, he
across country to the best sporting localities, but that if we went with him after game
me
would take us
five
days to get to Shimba, instead

route, for
of twelve hours
by the ordinary
though the
distance in a bee line was
much
the shorter, the
we should have
route,
country between us and the hills was very bad, and to ascend them by a long circuitous
and
if I
wanted
to shoot
lie
game we must
halt
near some of the pools and
in wait for the deer
when they came
to drink.
was in no hurry to get

to
;
1 1
Shimba and, although I detest sitting up for and potting game, yet, as I wanted to get the heads, horns, and hides of the African ferce naturce, and these men had killed three different kinds of deer and had seen, I was assured, three other kinds, I agreed to his proposals. The other natives, with the venison, went off soon afterwards, leaving their leader behind. We were up before daybreak there was a good deal of murmuring on the part of my men, who declared they had been sent with me to go to Shimba and not to wander over unknown tracts and one lazy rascal, the leader of the gang, flatly
;
;
refused to take
up
his load, or to
accompany me
it
is
;
to
Now, proposed going. practice always to be thrashing your niggers they are very like children, and can generally be ruled by a judicious mixture of firmness combined with
I
where
a disgusting
kindness
but some of these men, especially those who, although slaves themselves, have accompanied their masters in slave-hunting expeditions, are apt
;
mutinous, and even now and then, to show It would never do for a European to give fight. in too much, or to show the white feather so going
to be
;
up him
to the
man, with a smile on
my
face, I desired
to take
up
I
his load.
He
merely spat on the

looking at
ground by way
pleasantly
rage,
I
of answer.
could,
Still
him
as
but inwardly boiling with brought down my cane with all my might
as
!
He sprang up, and tried right across his ugly face to close I eluded his grasp, gave him first a cut
;
across the shins (the weakest and most sensitive part of an African), which made him yell, I knocked him
down, barking
my knuckles
on his thick head
putting

foot
on his neck, half throttling him, and gave I ever gave a He was purple in the face, and nigger in my life. unable to move, and I feared I had gone too far, but in a short time the other Africans got hold of him and poured water over him he recovered and was a wiser and a better man. Drawing my revolver,
my
him the most unmerciful thrashing
I swore I
and the
my
disobeyed, and the fate of their leader others, seeing determined looks, took up their loads and followed
would shoot the
first
man who
I may the guide across country without a word. here say that on my return, on reporting the man's conduct and my own to his master, the latter told me I should have been justified, by Arab law, in
putting
through him, and that would have been his own conduct under similar circumstances in fact, had I not interceded, the man would
a
bullet
;
have been then and there tied up and half flayed The plantation where we were encamped was alive.
on an arm of the sea, which runs inland many miles, and is a continuation of the great port of Mombasa, where, just before the British fleet, under Admiral the
Hon.
Sir E. K. Fremantle,
had been anchored. Leaving

into a vast undulating
this to the right,

plain.
we plunged
it
great deal of
was very stony, and covered
with stunted grass, a good

courses, thorny bushes,
many
ravines or waterforests of
and occasionally
low
" baubul."
parallel to the foot of the Shimba range in a southerly direction. After we had got clear of the ravines, we came to a plain standing
We went almost
somewhat higher than the surrounding country, and

In this covered with fine grass about 2,^ feet high. I shot several, and as I there were many florikan
:

don't care for
;
the porters they might have them so directly a bird fell he was hal-laled. We also picked up a couple of their eggs the first I had ever seen. We saw the marks of deer in abundI told
:
them
ance, but not one in person. By the evening we In front of us had done perhaps twelve miles. was a " tope," pretty free of undergrowth, but with numerous rattan canes creeping up the trees. Half
beyond was a pool, perhaps half a mile long, nowhere over twenty yards across, and not more than
a mile a couple of feet deep. In a very short time, unless rain fell, it would dry up, and the game would go elsewhere, so we had just hit off the right time.
At
its
further extremity there were a good

grass,
many
trees
and long
where
had no doubt game
retired to during the heat of the day. entered " the first tope," and as there was no appearance of I did not pitch the tent, the trestle cot answerrain,
all purposes of shelter from the heavy dew, as it had a waterproof sunshade over it. The guide, or shikarie as I shall call him in future, took his bow and quiver of arrows, and glided off to ascertain the whereabouts of game, and did not return till late not till I had finished my dinner, and had become somewhat impatient. Across his shoulders
We
ing
he brought the hind-quarters of a water buck, whilst in his hand he carried the head, with fine horns. The
moon was obscured by

till
past 10 p.m. that he and
fleeting clouds, and it was not I sallied forth. I took an
express *577, and gave

in addition
him the "Paradox"
to carry;
he had his own arms and poisoned arrows.
On
natural
the further side of the pool there was a sort of " "
bund
we crawled along under
its shelter
314
until
we were more than
half way, and there I found
a circular pit which had been dug by this his companions a short time ago. Into this
man and
we
crept,
and with the guns handy, lay still. At all times watching for game by night is unpleasant, but doubly so when your companion is an odoriferous African why
these people should
have this abominable bouquet, know, but I think I would sooner take a black draught than be in close
all
aptly called d'Afrique, I do not
all night, but by getting to the windward of him and making him sit as far away as posNow and sible, I managed to exist without being sick. then by half raising myself and looking over the pool to the furthest point, I saw at times various indistinct outlines of what I suppose were antelope, but it was We watched impossible to be certain what they were.
proximity to a nigger
the whole of that weary night, exposed to the heavy dew just the way to catch the dreaded African fever-
had had my share and more, when up the Niger and Congo, and was " salted" as it were so did not At times I even dozed and just as day was fear it.
but
I
breaking, the shikarie touched me, and, looking in the direction he pointed, I perceived several dark objects, how many I could not say, coming right opposite to us
They boldly waded in and crowded together two were so close that their flanks touched, one was a buck and the other a doe of the hartebeest genus, mule deer I call them, hideous ugly brutes, but they were fair specimens, and a solid conical from the Express passed through both, and they fell with a So unused were they to the report of a gun, splash. the remainder of the herd, somewhat startled, that but not very much frightened, sprang forward in our
to drink.
;

direction and then stood
side
315
Tha savage by my still. and let fitted, fly before one could It was not a good shot, it struck say Jack Kobinson. and away it and its companions in flank the beast the I was curious to see what effect the poison fled. would have and how soon, so I timed it. The wounded animal separated from the rest it had hardly gone a couple of hundred yards when it commenced, not exactly to stagger but to run in zigzags and presently rolled over and with a quiver or The man two was dead. All within five minutes went up to it, flayed it, cut a piece of meat all round the arrow-head, which he threw away, then quartered
had an arrow
;
!
the game.
It
seems extraordinary to
me
that such a
virulent poison does not affect the whole of the flesh. But it does not with the exception of the part incised the rest is perfectly good and fit for human
;
food.
was now broad day, and my porters had soon As I intended to dragged out the two antelope. halt where we were I allowed them to take the whole of the meat, and odd to say nothing was said about
It
its
not having been hal-laled.
It
is
true they cut
the throats, but then the beasts had been dead fully ten minutes but of course I made no allusion to it.
The guide hung his meat in the shade in long strips, and told my men to hang it out with theirs in the sun at midday. I had told him I would have no more shooting by night and that he must accompany
me
in search of
game by day
forest.
We took some
in the neighbouring The food with us and set out.
a long detour until placed for the wind, and then
man made
we were favourably
entered the forest,
through the centre of which ran a tiny watercourse, with little or no water in it, and but few pebbles or
stones, so
we moved along it almost noiselessly. The deer scampering away at dawn must have disturbed the forest, for we saw nothing up to twelve o'clock.
then ate something, had a tot of grog, and smoked placidly till past three, we then took a south-easterly
We
was more open, with patches of long grass here and there, and every now and then some deer would sneak away. Suddenly the man
course, there the forest
stooped down, and with his hand bade

wise.
me
do
like-
Directly I saw his
movement
as
had done so
I
lie
too
we remained immovable
statues for several
minutes,
followed
;
then the shikarie glided forward and every now and then the man would
down
In about a flat, and I of course did the same. quarter of an hour, which appeared to me an age, he pointed, and looking in that direction I saw three indistinct forms about a hundred yards off. They
had not seen us

flies
they gazed at nothing, flapping the

tails.
Looking more intently I saw that they were elands, probably a buck and either two does, or a doe and a youngster half-grown. They were amongst a lot of saplings, and the great
off
with their
danger was that the bullet might be deflected by one I of them, for the trees were very close together. sat up, and being perfectly concealed, remained
examining the beasts, wondering which was the male,

for I could not distinguish more than a bit of the head of one at a time, as they tossed them about.
Natives of India would have urged me to shoot, they think a gun can do anything, but the African never
moved
a muscle, and crouching down, lay perfectly

still,
317
These rumicud in peace, nants, chewing suddenly jumped up, sprang forward, and were almost on the top of us before I could raise the rifle to my
leaving
to choose
me
my own
time.
which
were
the
shoulder.
up
like a jack in the box,
threw myself down. The guide sprang and with a yell which might
have frightened a person of the most stringent nerves, to say nothing of poor harmless beasts like antelope, he brought them to a momentary standstill. I fired at the largest, the shikarie at another, mine toppled It took us over at once and proved to be the bull. over an hour to find the one hit with the arrow, not
that
it
had gone any long distance or that
it
had
sur-
vived
many minutes, but in its death struggles it had bounded here and there and had finally fallen into a narrow watercourse and lay concealed amidst a
quantity of foliage. I sent the man back for porters, and cut off the two heads, both good of their kind, and had partially flayed the bull by the time the
bearers
to take back the meat to camp. could have frightened the animals, what Wondering
arrived
searched the
surface of the surrounding ground,
more
when
especially near where they were lying down first seen. The ground was hard and it was not
easy to trace the spoor of any footsteps, but in a saw the imprint of the foot of slightly moist bit I
either a very large leopard or a smallish lion. Everything was as still as death. So, sending the
men back
to camp, I hid myself to ascertain what had caused all the commotion. After waiting until I was heartily sick of my cramped position, I got I had brought a bottle of up and went forward. strychnine with me, and cutting an incision or two
318
the deer, and dropping some of the poison in them, I went home and forbade anyone going to the deer which had been shot, for fear he
into
left of
what was
might be poisoned
jungles sufficiently, but whilst passing
too.
We
had disturbed these
determined to move camp, the scene of our adventure I

so
found the
remains of both the elands had been

I
dragged away, so
a lion, not a very big one
followed the trail and came upon dead So I had obtained

!
African feline by murder. In the meanwhile the guide had followed the other trail. I saw him fix an
my
first
arrow and shoot
just time to in the lower jaw, fracturing it completely unable to bite, she clawed the man, and
bounded upon him. take a snap shot, and fortunately

;
a lioness
had
hit her
doubtless
injured
ball
and put a
had through her head. As

severely,
him
but though would have not run up
wanted the
skins carefully removed, I temporarily halted there. were ready to move again about one, and went
We
on to another pool of water, at the very extremity There we pitched camp for of the Shimba range.
the night. Moving as we were, I was unable to peg out the pelts, but I had them well rubbed over with
them as well as I could on a framework, and on halting we slung them and all our meat to the topmost leaves of a cocoa-nut tree, the only one in the place, and as it was tapped, we
wood
ashes and stretched
were very glad to avail ourselves of its delicious juice, which is very wholesome, and refreshing, if taken fresh, but very intoxicating if allowed to ferment.
The night was made hideous by the cries of hyaenas and other prowling beasts, who, smelling meat and not being able to get at it, vented their
319
wrath by swearing at us in their own discordant

language
!
Early next morning we commenced the ascent of the range. The shikarie would not take us to the
part occupied
by
missionaries,
who had
station
there, but crossing many miles lower down, he took us to a deserted village with large pools of water,
where it was said hippopotami, and even giraffes were at times to be found. Hippoos require a good deal of food, and they soon devour the stock of aquatic plants in a circumscribed sheet of water, they then migrate elsewhere and only return when the pool has become
stocked again.
So a visitor to a locality may on certain occasions find behemoth and at others not These hippoos bore a bad name, and were said to care
nothing for anybody, and now and then took the This view of their character initiative in attacking. was borne out by the guide, who declared his brother
had been
killed
by one
of these river horses at one of
He said there were no trees near these very pools. of and but a fringe grass round the edge of the vley. On the plateau we saw a great many florikan and
I shot a few partridges, as they allowed one to and well almost walk over them lay before rising, so afforded easy shots but for the
deer, but got none.
table they were scarcely worth powder and shot. By 3 P.M. we began the descent of the range, to the
west, but going
up, and
it
down was almost worse than climbing was dark when we got to the plain beyond,
spot, pitched
and finding a cleared
our camp and

night.
made
ourselves
comfortable for
the
But
during sunset and sunrise a lion prowled round us,
320
uttering a peculiar cry, and the superstitious natives said it was the mate of the one we had shot and
had poisoned. The brute kept us awake. He might have been a man-eater for all we knew. It was too dark to see him or I would
the father of the
one
have sent a bullet or a charge of buckshot

him.
after
At daybreak we resumed our journey,

lion's
traced the
feet-marks for some way, but he had gone into a ravine so densely matted with thorny bushes, that I could have followed him only by going on all fours,
along the
tunnelled path
which led
to
his
lair.
Whilst
was examining
this place
the comrades of
our guide, who had gone on to Mombasa to dispose of the venison, came up. They were carrying a water buck which they had killed. After some trouble I
induced them to quarter it, and whilst retaining all the good meat for themselves, to leave the carcase as a bait close to the path leading to the lion's home.
over with grass and bushes to prevent the vultures from seeing it. I left, determined to return
Covering
it
later
on and try and get a shot at the king of beasts. We reached the camping place about 11 A.M.
pitched the tent in a group of trees about a quarter of a mile from the nearest water, which was but a
stagnant pool, not very inviting in

as
it
its
appearance
was evidently a favourite resort of buffaloes to wallow in, but close by there was a small excavation which yielded good clear water and which would
suffice for
our wants.
After a hasty breakfast I
visited all the neighbouring pools ; there were footprints of game of all sorts round them, but the " " hippoos resided in a large vley of water some way

off so I deferred
321
the morrow.
left
my
visit to
them
till
About three
walked back to where we had
the
remains of the water buck. Eemoving the debris we had put over it, the shikarie and I hid ourselves
behind some boulders of rocks, which formed a very We respectable cache within easy shooting distance.
had not been there five minutes, nor had the carcase been uncovered more than ten minutes, when, with a whirl, with closed wings, shot down a vulture, and then I was for driving them away, another and another but my sable companion made signs to leave them I thought the obscene birds would pick the alone.
!
skeleton clean in a few minutes, but their chattering and fighting and the noise made by them when darting
through the air, I suppose roused the lion, and he must have crept up so noiselessly, that the first
intimation
the birds.
we had
of his presence
was the
flight of
Looking up, over our barrier, there stood A shell a magnificent lion not fifteen paces away.
behind the shoulder dropped him dead,
I
heard a rush
another
If I
and just got sight of the

lion or lioness, as it ran
tip of the tail of
back into cover.
had
waited, I have no doubt I should have got both. Thinking there was just a chance of the one who had
retreated coming back later on, we dragged the one slain aside (it was as much as we could do jointly),
and covered
it
up.
sent the
man back
to
camp
with orders to return by dark with men, and then ensconced myself again, but the filthy birds returned, no feline put in an appearance, and long before the
porters arrived there was not an ounce of flesh left on the bones. The lion not having been seen, although not twenty feet away, was unmolested by the
322
vultures.
I
Leaving the men to carry home the spoil, ahead, had pegs prepared, bathed and It took us over an hour to flay and then to dined. The head I put into a large out the skin. peg earthenware pot and left it simmering on the fire in the morning the flesh peeled off, and I all night had as fine and white a skull as one could wish to see. The teeth were loosened a bit, but these can easily be fastened in with beeswax as a temporary After measure, and afterwards with plaster of Paris.
hurried
;
drying the skull thoroughly in the sun, I wound twine round the jaws to keep them together, and " " then made one of the boys sew it up in a piece of
gunny.
Next day I determined to visit the " Hippoos' Rest," and ascertain if they were at home and as
Three of the Africans accomsavage as reported. I took my '577 loaded with six and a half panied me.
drams of powder and a

that I did
so.
solid
hardened bullet in each

1
barrel, also a single elephant gun,

I also
and lucky it was had the "Paradox." It took us
over two and a half hours' walking to get to the big Before we reached it the ground was a mass pool.
of dents
and
pitfalls, as
if
been wandering about there for a month.
a herd of elephants "
had
"
vley in the monsoon had approached the dimensions of a lake, and as the waters subsided during the dry season, the soil had cracked, and much resembled the
The
"cotton soil" of India.
Besides the
tracks of the
hippoos, there were marks of elephants, buffaloes, giraffes, and of many kinds of antelopes, from colossal
1
Made by
Messrs. Bland
&
Co.,
of the
Strand, called the
Equatorial.
Encounter with Vicious Hippopotami.

elands
323
down
to the tiny
duiker.
There were but
apart, and, bearing in mind the evil repute of the hippoos, I made for the As the men refused to follow me, I slung largest.
three trees, at
some distance
bore in
the Express over my shoulder, and carried the bigmy hand. It is called the "Equatorial."
I directed the man with the Paradox to go to the next tree and remain there, either at the bottom or up in the branches, but ready to hand it to me if I
The ground was execrable, but I stumrequired it. bled along, reached the long grass, and with some
difficulty got to the tree,
but found
tried to
was
still
some
way from
take
the water.
climb the tree to

it
a view
around, but found
too prickly, so
resting the single barrel against the trunk, I commenced to form a pathway by treading dowr n the grass, so as to have a means of retreat should one
be necessary.
cock, ready for
The Express I kept in hand any emergency. It was not
at full
far to
the water's edge, but it took me fully an hour to get there, for the stems of the grass were like those of large reeds, not easy to break or to tread down
had moved, as I thought, I must have made some noise, for on pushing aside
quietly.
Silently as I
the last of the grass I saw, not ten paces off, just emerging from the deep water, the hideous head of an enormous bull hippopotamus. Our eyes met. I
made
his
step
the tree, but he rushed at
backwards, intending to get behind me at once, opening out
mouth, exposing a horrible set of ivories and- bellowing with rage. Although in his the water was depth, fortunately up to his middle, so his progress was laboured and not very rapid. I
cavernous
324
gave him both barrels in the neck, turned round and ran to the tree. Dropping the Express, I seized the
Big-bore," wheeled round one side of the tree as the hippoo passed it on the other. Almost touching
"
him, I gave him the contents behind the shoulder, then dodging round the tree I seized the double rifle,
in the twinkling of a bed-post," fully the brute to be upon me every moment, expecting but the impetus with which he had made at me
it
reloaded
"
on, and, seeing the natives in the plain, he blundered on after them. I again seized the single I in a ran to the edge of the rifle, thrusting cartridge
carried
him
This time grass, and, taking a deliberate aim, fired. the brute stumbled, and fell on his knees, the blood pouring from his nostrils but he seemed to bear a
;
was up again and a very reduced pace. Again

charmed
life,
after the
I
men, but at
the elephant took no
fired
gun, but apparently without I loaded and fired again. This notice of the shot. time he was a good hundred paces off. This last
shot seemed to have struck some tender spot, for he pulled up, and trotted back towards me, but very
groggily.
let
effect, as he
The "Big-bore"
beast
knew
very powerful, but very accurate.

the
to be not only I did not care to
come too
close, for
he was a nasty
fifty
customer.
knelt
chest.
So when he was about

he
this
paces off
down and
fired at the junction of the

fell,
neck and
I
Down
time to
rise
no more.
picked up the Express, loaded both weapons carefully, and joined the natives, who were grouped
round the slain. The bullets were all well placed, and any one of them should have sufficed to deprive him of life, and would probably have done so, but
Herd of
Giraffe.
325
for the brute's determination
and
ferocity
which alone
kept him alive as long as it did. The men took out their knives, and were commencing to cut up the slain, when we were startled by
hearing snorting, and, looking round, there was a fullgrown hippoo coming at us at a lumbering gallop
!
The natives
by dropped me, and the pachyderm singling out the shikarie went for him open-mouthed. He did not see me, but passed within ten yards. I fired, first the "bone
smasher" and then both barrels of the Express at not more than twenty yards' distance, and had the satisfaction of seeing the monster roll over after
close alongside
spread, each running a different route. of the enormous carcase
Back came the natives, running a short way. and after a hurried consultation, two went off full pelt, whilst the third commenced to cut up one of
pieces of
swallowing at the same time great raw meat and fat. There was not much more than an hour or so of daylight left, when the natives who had so suddenly disappeared, returned accompanied by about fifty others. Whilst some shouldered the meat which had already been cut, and made for camp, the others remained behind to
the
animals,
complete the quartering.

tent
till
did not get back to
my
8.30 P.M., very much done up, but a cold bath and a good dinner and a bottle of lager made a new man of me, and it was arranged that our
and I were to start about 3 A.M., and the rest were to follow later on, and meet us at some rendezvous, agreed upon between them. By daybreak we were close by the place where the encounter with the hippoos had yesterday taken place. We
shikarie
326
gave the place and pool a wide berth, not wishing to encounter any more of these pugnacious beasts, and went on to a gully in the heart of an acacia forest,
where
In the dim daylight of difficult. " " or a pit, the forest I often slipped into a crevasse and got several falls, and many a shaking. But
getting on to a path made by wild beasts, we were enabled to traverse the ground at a better pace. There
was said walking was most

it
giraffes
were to be found.
The
were the
animals,
footmarks
those
and
the
droppings of
as
many
those
of giraffes predominating,
beasts seemed to go and return
by the same way.
We
disturbed several deer, but saw nothing to shoot up to nine o'clock. I was then told to sit down and
and the shikarie would look about for fresh I was to conceal myself as much as possible, tracks. for if giraffes were started they would be sure to come my way. I accordingly got into a kind of pit, which some one had dug out in search of water, and squatted down, having my weapons loaded and I cut a few branches which I stuck into the handy. ground in front of me so as to form a screen, and after eating some cold meat and hippoo's, I believe a of and I was half water, taking swig asleep, whisky when I heard a twig break. I was on the qui vive in a moment, and cautiously peered about, but could
rest,
see nothing. After a considerable pause there was another slight sound and then faint footsteps, and I saw about eight giraffes in single file coming past
my
post.
It
How my
heart did beat
They looked
so
seemed a great shame to deprive one of its life Yet how disappointed I should have been had I failed to bag one Their
lovely.
these animals of
A
heads towered
tongues would dart
Vicious Buffalo. the
327
over
out, seize
Their long vegetation. some succulent morsel,
then disappear for a second in the mouth, and then the process would be repeated. When nearly opposite
me, they halted.

as
was
afraid they
me; but
menced
they
scattered
had winded somewhat, and recom-
to feed placidly, I knew that they did not the I suspect presence of their deadly foe Man.
might have brought down a couple at any moment, but it was such a beautiful sight, that I refrained from firing. We thus remained for fully five minutes then in the distance there was the sound of hoofs, as if some heavy beasts were in a stampede.
;
The
giraffes
collected
the exception of noise, one at a foot time, they looked as if cut stamping out of so many rocks. But this barely lasted a and in a straggling line, some twenty minute, then, buffaloes rushed past. The leader was a huge bull
towards
the
together and with
with
their
heads
with an immense head and horns.

bovines
In a second the
and the cameleopards were mixed as if running a race. Directly the stampede took place I gave the buffalo indecision on my part ceased. the contents of the "bone breaker" behind the shoulder, and with the right barrel of the Express laid low the bull giraffe with a ball through its neck, and afterwards wounded another with the left. Leaving the giraffe, I hurried on with great caution
wounded buffalo, for these animals are very treacherous, and when followed often hide and pounce upon their foe when least expected, and when the
after the
victim
is
so close as
his escaping.
prevent the possibility of The wounded animal had turned off to

to
328
the

left into horrible
ground, so densely covered with it was that only possible to traverse it thorny jungle by following on the trail. As very many of the bushes
closed again after he
it
was very
I
ticklish
had forced a passage through work, and I did not half like it,
coveted the head, so waiting until the shikarie appeared, and giving him the Equatorial and making signs to him to keep close, I led the way with the
'577 1 in hand, full cocked.
but
turned up
to look for
Two of the Africans had them to telling flay the giraffe, and then the wounded one, I went on very slowly,
stopping every moment to peer ahead as well as I could, and to listen. But I got out of the low jungle and
had entered another with " baubul trees only, which were about seven feet high, the lower branches intermingled, so the leaves formed a crown above, and the whole made almost a canopy overhead. Here I could see a little way in front, but still did not hurry forward. I had gone perhaps half a mile there was a dry rivulet, the bed being about three feet lower than the banks, which were composed of some friable black"
;
was
I kept as near the edge as looking very dry earth. safe and followed the trail, on which lay patches a sure sign that he was shot through of frothy blood
If I had had any sense, I ought to have the lungs. waited till next day, and then have followed, with the
certainty of finding the opinion of the
him
dead.
That, I think, was

for
he kept lagging behind as soon as he ascertained from the footmarks

shikarie,
that I was following this dangerous beast. About the dry rivulet took a sharp turn fifty yards ahead
1 One of Westley Richard s's best weapons, which won the Grand Prix at Paris.
Death of
to
the
Vicious Buffalo.
so far that all
329
was plain sailing, so I hurried on, having my weapon ready for instant use. I was near the bend and advancing more cautiously, when there was a rush, and the broad head of the buffalo was within a couple of yards of me. Unfortunately for him, but luckily for me, for the sake of greater concealment he had left the bed of the nullah and taken up a position on the further bank. To get at me he had either to clear the nullah or to jump in and out the banks were crumbly, and as he sprung forward the ground gave away partially under him, his foot caught in a pendent vine, and he came an awful cropper, rolling right over on to his back within a couple of feet of me So I gave him both barrels, then springing up, I caught the lowest branch and drew myself aloft, resting my feet
the
left.
could see
branch
against the trunk of the tree, just underneath the I was clinging to. This did not take me a second
I
was in a horizontal position just out of his rose to his feet. Let him toss his head so ever he could not get closer to mighty high me than about six inches, but the position I was in was not over safe, and very constrained. I could not hold on very long, and the bull did not seem inclined
reach
and
when he
to
move
off; in
trying to shift
my
hold with one
hand to go higher up, and to get astride of the branch I was clinging to, I found my left hand impaled one of the long massive thorns had gone right through I had not, in the excitement of the moment, felt it. the pain, but when I attempted to move it now the wound caused the most intense agony. Throw a leg over the branch to relieve myself of the weight was impossible, as in so doing, I would be almost certain
33
to impale that too, for the long straight thorns on these trees are innumerable. As the brute, in his
vain attempts to get at me, kept lifting up his nostrils in throwing back his head, I watched my opportunity, and as he next did so, I brought
down
my
left leg
;
kick on the nose
and with all my might gave him a but in doing this idiotic trick, my
;
right foot also got disengaged were thus at his mercy, and
my
lower extremities
no doubt inwardly chuckling, he made a vicious prod at my legs, but beyond a graze he missed his aim. Before he could repeat the blow I had drawn up my legs out of harm's
way again but tension on my

;
it
was impossible for me to bear the Where the arms much longer.
shikarie
was
did not
know
he knew nothing of the
use of firearms or he might have aided me by letting drive the contents of the big bore into the monster, and I unjustly accused him of cowardice and
abandoning
me
his best, for as
but I was wrong, the man had done soon as he saw the buffalo he fired a
poisoned arrow into its chest, and not till then did he slip awr ay. I could only have been a few minutes
suspended in mid for dear life, but

I
air
it
holding on to the thorny branch

to
seemed
me an
hour.
found
longer.
could not hold on a couple of minutes Just then I saw a dark mass wa^Lk away a
I
;
few yards and lie down my strength failed me, so I let go to drop, although my left hand was, as it were, nailed to the branch. Expecting to be tossed up high amongst the thorny branches or to be impaled on the horns, not of a dilemma, but of the buffalo, was not a pleasant prospect, but let go I had to, the weight
of
my
body releasing
my
hand
as the thorn broke
Panthers and Leopards and directly

I
(Asiatic].
331
off
touched earth
scrambled
on
all
fours as fast as I could.
Thank goodness the
bull
was not in a state to wreak his vengeance for though not dead, he was all but so, yet he looked as if he
should like to annihilate
The with a glance. wounds he had received from me, combined with the
me
action of the poison from the shikarie's arrow had undermined his constitution, and in a few seconds he
and died. This was about the narrowest The shikarie was not escape I ever had in my life. I pulled the far off, and soon made his appearance. thorn, two and a half inches long, out of my hand, which swelled up to an immense size and gave me intense pain. For many days, as far as shooting was We got back to concerned, I was hors de combat. where the giraffe had fallen all the men were there, they had also recovered the second beast. I should
rolled over
;
have liked to
start
back
at
once,
but
the
men
all the meat they we a spot and and So cleared could, gormandizing. made up our minds to spend the night there. The hunters cut strips of meat off the giraffe and broiled it over hot embers, and it was really not to be despised but then I was very hungry, and had it not been for the mosquitoes and the pain in my hand I should not have passed a bad night. Before separating for the night the Africans collected some leaves and
evidently were bent on securing
chewing them applied them as a poultice to my hand, but though it relieved me somewhat, it did not
after
I fancy some altogether alleviate the gnawing pain. tendon had been injured. By the next morning I was in a high fever the men made a rude palankeen
;
out of
my
trestle
cot,
and carried me back,
first
to
33 2
camp, then hearing that Dr. Baxter was not at Shimba they carried me to Simba (not Shimba), a place on the
arm
of the sea, put

into
me
into an
Arab dhow and took

I
me
Mombasa, where under proper treatment

I
soon recovered.
had wandered barely ten miles beyond Makupa, when I came upon four It was leopards watching a herd of hartebeestos.
another occasion
a pretty sight to contemplate, but before I could fire the wild cats bounded off one way whilst
On
the
antelopes another.
now thoroughly aroused went
off
'
^
'
* .^
CHAPTER
IX.
INDIA.
A MIXED BAG IN SOUTHERN
WHEN
was a youngster
and
in
the
fifties,
stationed with
was excellent
regiment at Secunderabad there sport to be obtained within an easy
my
distance of the station, but since privates have been encouraged, and in my opinion very properly so, to
indulge in
shooting, small game has nearly disappeared, so to get anything like a bag one has to go a long distance. But by crossing the Moosa excellent
sport could be
had in the rumnah, a large
tract
very carefully preserved for antelope hunting with trained chitas, by the Nizam and his sirdars. I learnt
that no soldiers were allowed to pass the river, and that
was very difficult for an officer even to get permission but meeting his Excellency Sir Salar Jung at a party given in his honour at the Public Assembly Rooms, just before Christmas, I was introduced to him by the General Commanding the
it
to shoot there
Subsidiary Force, and as he was good enough to say that my name was familiar to him as a successful
sportsman and great traveller, and that he would be pleased to take me out later on tiger shooting, which
334
offer I gratefully accepted, I
ask
if
he would give
me
emboldened to a purwannah for some

also
was
rumnah. He promised to send me I was no longer in the service, but one, and he did. was endeavouring to secure men for a Company in Africa, and as soon as I could get away I sent on a 1 syce and a dozen beaters to the ford, where travellers
sporting in the
for
Masulipatam via Narkapilly usually crossed, and starting myself on the 5th January, and got there at 5.30 A.M. As I entered the preserve I was at
once accosted by a keeper,
who asked
to see
my permit.
the
The
minister's seal
was quite
sufficient,
man
salaamed and allowed us to go on. The aspect of the was not much country changed, though it was more than thirty years since I had been there. To the
north-east there used to be several "bheels," noted places for duck, teal and snipe. I asked the head beater " if they still existed, and he replied, Ho, sahib, bahoot shikar hi, koe ne marta (Yes, sir, there is plenty of
game
as
no one shoots there)."
About a mile from
the river's bank, as the country looked favourable, I formed line, and with six men on either side of me
was armed with a light 2 breechloader, No. 16 bore, and I found that when loaded with 2f drams of Schultze and one ounce of No. 6 or 8 shot, it would perform splendidly up to fifty yards, and if held with judgment, it occasionally A better and a handier weapon killed much further. We had barely gone fifty yards I never possessed.
commenced
to
beat.
through coarse grass, a couple of feet high, sometimes more than that, with small bushes scattered here and there, when up got a bevy of quail. I
1
Oopal.
Made by Westley
Richards.
Mixed Bag
in
Southern India.
335
brought down one, and was about to pull trigger on another when a hare ran across about twenty yards
off.
It did
not take
me
a second to shift
my
aim,
and the hare rolled over, but when going up to it, what was my astonishment to find a little further on a cobra writhing on the ground, shot through the head It was fully five feet long and thick in proAs it was not quite dead, one of the coolies portion. " soon hammered it to bits with the " lattee he was beating with, and throwing the carcase aside we went on. Finding nothing but quail, I changed my cartridges to those loaded with No. 10 shot, and as the little beauties lay well and got up in threes and fours, I had capital sport, and soon there were pendant by their necks on my shikar stick eight and a half couple. Of these, seven brace were corn three were the small button quail, which, quail, though charming to look at, are not worth much for the table. Coming to the end of this rumnah, we
!
entered a piece of ground covered with prickly bushes and with very many rocks scattered over half a
mile, with
" an extensive " bheel beyond. Telling the coolies to be doubly careful in beating, I
soon had the pleasure of starting a couple of the painted rock pigeon or sand grouse, a small but lovely
variety, found in such places
pairs.
and generally only in
I brought one down with the right barrel, but wounded I knew it was the other with the left. only hit, I
hard
but
it
flew
it,
along very
I
strongly and
thought
had
lost
when
"
a splash fall into the narrow and shallow.

could, I
saw it tower, and with bheel," which was there very
Marking the spot as well as I went on with the beat. Two more pairs of
336
these lovely birds were disturbed, but they got up out of shot, and settled at the foot of a rocky
So I determined to eminence, the only one visible. look them up towards the afternoon, when they would lie like tops. Closing on to the " bheel," 1
wheeled the line round, and beating the thick scrub
put up several of the Indian red-legged partridges, and though 1 fired five shots I only secured a couple. Skirting
close
to the water's edge I
common
the "bheel" until I came to a very marshy place, which looked favourable for the " long-bills," I went into it,
and had scarcely done so when on every side up rose " snipe and went off with their usual cry, Scape, I secured a couple, but it was early in the scape." day when the birds are generally wild, mined to leave them alone till later on.
resist snipe shooting
so I
I
deter-
can never
to
me
it is
the prince of sports.
able to
else.
Probably my fondness for it arises from my being bowl them over when I can't hit anything
fact that
That snipe shooting is a knack is proved by the owing to long practice I can kill them
often miss such large birds as a florikan, a bust-
when
quail
ard, goose, guinea-fowl
and even pheasants.

are far easier to
Snipe and
and such small deer

size
me
to slay
than birds the

larger,
of a barn-door fowl
gotit.
and even
but cJiacun d son
Leaving the marsh and getting back to terra-firma, I went through a portion of the rumnah covered with
fine grass
bushes.
about three feet high, very level and free from Out of this I put up several doe antelope
;
and
their fawns
their forms were numerous, but I
desisted
from killing one, as
my
permit to shoot
did not include the slaying of them.
Some
years
A
ago,
Mixed Bag
in
Southern India.
337
two or three officers had been maltreated, tied on hurdles, and carried through the blazing sun into the city, for some infringement of the rules, or for having I had gone about a fired at or shot an antelope. quarter through this maidan when within ten yards
rose straight into the air I fired too quickly, and, shameful to say, but learning missed it clean with right barrel
of
me up
got a cock florikan.
As
it
my
wisdom by misadventure, when the bird commenced

its
horizontal flight, the left barrel, a modified choke,

its
duty and down it came. As it fell, up got the hen, but as I was unloaded off she went, to be
did
marked down near a scinde bund. Skirting the " " I put up one more florikan, a bheel top of the hen bird this time, and bagged it. Then for half an
hour
I
did not
fire
a shot.
" I
tremity of the
"
bheel
Having reached the excommenced to beat down
the other side, towards where the sand grouse had fallen. Seeing some teal and duck, I allowed a couple of the common partridges to go away unscathed, but leaving the beaters, with the exception of a couple, and sheltering myself as much as possible
behind the bushes, I crept up as close to the former as I could get without alarming them. They were
on a small ridge of partially dried up mud-bank, pluming and cleaning themselves and all close together, affording the easiest
of pot shots. I put a cartridge with No. 8 shot in the right barrel and had a No. 4 in the left. Letting drive, before the
smoke cleared away there was a whirl, a quack, quack, and up rose two pin-tailed ducks from behind some bushes, and flying close together went across
light
me
about twenty yards
off.
Firing just in front of

z
338
the leader I brought both down, one stone dead, but the other was only wounded, and went off at railway speed, skimming over the water and lilies, for its
life,
followed
by two
coolies
The
pond
was
apparently only a couple of feet deep, but there were holes, into which first one biped and then the other
fell,
over amidst the roars of laughter of the lookers-on and the muttered curses of the fallen.
rolled
and
But these aborigines had on only a strip of cloth a few inches broad, tucked in between their legs, so a ducking did them more good than harm. Leaving them to follow the wounded duck, we went to retrieve the teal
covered
the dead duck had already been picked up, and refive, but there were two or three others
wounded, that had swam away some distance, whilst we were watching the duck-hunt, and on being followed, dived, and probably got entangled in the
weeds and never rose again, so we lost them. By the time we had strung these birds on the stick, the two coolies were seen coming back in triumph with the duck as well as the sand grouse, which they
had stumbled upon, and just saved as a hawk swooped down to carry it off in its clutches. It was now past I had never known the country so full of eleven. even thirty odd years ago, but then the rules game, of protection were not so stringent as they were now, " " rumnah without a for none are allowed into the it was forbidden pass, whereas in former days, though no was restriction the shoot to deer, yet put upon the
slaying of small game. Finding a dry place I rested for half an hour, ate
and Strasburg potted meat, washed down by a pint of lager beer, gave the gun a wipe
some
bread
A
out,
Mixed Bag
in Southern India.
to the snipe ground.
339
and then went back
forwards.
the next three hours I tramped it It was easy walking, the birds lay remarkably well and gave easy shots, and I accounted for
For backwards and
twenty- two without
miss.
By
3 P.M.
had
twenty-seven couple of snipe, seven jack-snipe and three painters. These latter are not snipe at all, though
generally shoot them, but I knocked I then rested a few over to-day to vary my bag.
called so, nor
do
awhile again, ate something and drank another pint of Beck's lager, a refreshing and a harmless drink, very
from the heady Bass and Allsopp of my youth. Afterwards I made for where the sand grouse had betaken themselves in the morning. En route
different
the country was very favourable for game of all sorts, and I got a couple of hares, three painted partridges,
two of the large smoky sand grouse, one of another Several variety, and three more of the painted kind. of the keepers came up and admired my mixed lot, but not more than I did myself, for never in my life had I got such a varied bag in India as I did on that day. I went towards the scinde bund, but the shades
of evening were falling fast, the birds got up wild, so " " I left that portion of the rumnah and made for " the southern end of the bheel," which as yet I had not
The cover was good, and I could hear approached. the quacking of various kinds of duck. I sneaked up, fired a shot at some on the water and again as they
rose,
but only picked up a mallard, a widgeon and two pochards, or birds which I took to be so. I
had just loaded when

naturalists declare
is
heard the peculiar noise

teal,
made by the blue-winged
which
believe
allied to the geese
we
call
them
z 2
340
and as they passed I fired into the cotton teal " ruck," when two fell and two went away hit, but it was not worth while going after them, especially
as I
saw
some of the
for
and make
killed
them.
peons mark them down Further on I fired at and
a whistling teal, and as its companion would not leave the spot, but kept calling piteously, and circling around, I added it to the bag. I was just thinking it was time to shut up and go home-
wards, when a water pheasant ran along over the broad leaves of the water lilies, and I shot it, but it gave " " us no end of trouble to get, as the bed of the bheel
there was very boggy. Still, wanting it as a specimen, I waited until it was gathered, and then, as there were
several rangers present and I had more than I cared for, I gave them a mallard, the pochard, and the two " halcotton and whistling teal, all of which had been
laled," as well as
Mussulman
some of the other birds, by the only had out with me. The birds I gave
are not good for the table, and my game-stick was crowded. Each string had two or more pendant on it, and I could afford to be generous, especially as
away
intended to
visit other portions of the
"
rumnah
"
again,
my
permit being a general one, which would
I also disthe shooting season. carry tributed a few rupees, and leaving them contented, I made for the river, which was fully four miles distant.
me through
Whilst
went one way the keepers went another,

lost sight of
it
and we soon
them.
By
the time I got

as
near the boundary
was getting dusky, and

to the river to
drink, I antelope often come down loaded with a ball cartridge in the right barrel, having shot in the other. I did not think we should
Mixed Bag
in Southern India.
341
see anything, but it is as well to be prepared for all chances. Leaving the coolies behind, I rode on alone.
My
fire
horse was perfectly quiet, and would allow

off his
me
to
back without winking. It had formerly belonged to an Arab, from whom I bought it.
got close to the water, looking over the fringe of grass which grew on its bank, I saw about a buck and three fifty yards off, close to the margin,
I
When
doe antelopes. The does were still drinking, but the buck either scented danger or had satisfied his thirst. He was broadside on, but looking in my direction. A shot behind the shoulder rolled him over dead into the water, and at the report up got perhaps a hundred or more of golden plover, and with the left barrel I cut a lane through them, killing five and wounding several others. We got two which fell into the water and one on the further bank, but it was getting too dark to see what became of the rest. The coolies had soon shouldered the buck, and retrieved the dead plover, and in a few minutes we were on our own side of the river, with a mixed bag, the like of which has seldom been made. The buck had horns 22j inches long, extraordinarily good for
they are obtained much longer towards Jubbulpore and Saugar. I was often asked where I got them, but I always declined to say, for the trophies were to all intents poached.
this part
of the world, though
had two more days in the " rumnah game, but never made such a mixed bag
I
"
after small
as
on
this
occasion.
CHAPTER
X.
SPORT IX SYRIA.
SOME years ago I read a book called Eight Years in Syria by Consul Neild. In it he stated, that do what he would, he could not spend more than 40 a
year, although he possessed a capital house, with a
bath-room, a fountain, some land, two servants, kept
His headquarters horses, horse-keepers, &c. were at Antioch, with a country place a little way
three
out,
where he enjoyed the finest field sport, the country swarming in the seasons with woodcock, and red-legged partridges, snipe, florikan, black occasional gazelles and wild boars. This appeared to me, a poor military man, a perfect Elysium. Thus when I retired from the service I went to Beyrout, left my family there, then on to Alexandretta,
Antioch, Aleppo, the Euphrates, Damascus, Baalbec, I should have preferred Tripoli, and Latacjuie'. to live but who in, Aleppo everybody goes there
from a virulent boil, named the " Aleppo bouton," and which does not differ much from the " Delhi boil," or the irruptions to which Europeans are subject on the West Coast of Africa. The sores cannot be prevented or even mitigated, but must run
suffers
their course
generally for twelve months
and leave
Sport in Syria.
fearful scars behind.
343
This disfigurement unfortunately attacks the face principally. I have seen women who would probably have been beautiful, almost
As I had a young family did not care to subject them to such a fell disease, and much as I liked Aleppo I made up my mind to
hideous from their
I
effects.
leave
it
alone.
In
my
home
searchings, I found that to get a suitable Greek for a family was almost impossible.
at Lataquie offered to let me the upper part of a This rather astonished 36 a year large house for
!
40 limit assigned by the Consul as an annual expenditure remained then, and not till then, did I discover that the book was
;
me
not
much
of the
forty years old.
may
In the early forties living in Syria have been moderate enough, but in 1879 it was
bad, and the expense not much short of some cheap locality in England, while the inconveniences were
much
I
greater.
purchased furniture, a piano, &c., and made my I bought two people as comfortable as I could. 12 a piece, a mare in good horses at Aleppo for Lataquie for
5 each.
I
12 more, and a couple of donkeys for brought with me from India, iron beds
and bedding, saddlery, &c., and a large stock of eatables and drinkables. The hotel proprietor at Beyrout told me to leave it to him and he would
clear
In three days, after baggage, free. considerable delay, I think he brought to the hotel three boxes out of a hundred Then I told him to
all
my
mind
his
own
business, secured an interpreter,
and
knowing the value of backseesh, by doling out two pounds I got the rest of my traps passed without
344
examination, which was
with
me some 20
Ibs.
desideratum, as I had of Schultze powder and about

a
2,000 cartridges.
article,
Powder
and a monopoly
in Syria is a contraband of the Government as it is in
Schultze was expended I could only get vile Greek black powder by smuggling but it was better than nothing. During the season
France.
;
When my
1878-79
explored more than
shot.
had
great difficulties to
my
contend against, the worst being own ignorance of Arabic. Fortunately the head
of the Telegraph Department was a young fellow, very fond of shooting, and who spoke almost equally well English, French, Italian, Turkish and Greek and
Arabic.
several
bagged hundred couple of cock, a gazelle, geese, francolins hares, two kinds of partridges quail, sand But when the season of grouse, and a few florikan. 1879-80 commenced, I found game far more plentiful but knowing the localities may have had something to say to this, and besides, such a winter had not been seen for eighteen or twenty years. Fortunately we had purchased an American stove, or in I think we should have been frozen to death rooms built to exclude tropical heat, and not to endure an Arctic winter. The jungle on the hilltops, the hills, their sides and valleys, were covered with deep snow, so woodcock swarmed into the olive groves almost in the centre of the town, and it was computed that in three or four days the Arabs and Greeks alone, killed upwards of 3,000 of these I was not idle. birds. Thus my stock of Schultze powder was exhausted; I have used it since 1870. No vessels would bring it out, the secretary was not
;
induced him to chaperon me, so
Sport in Syria.
over
I
civil,
345
and although I had deposited the money, could get no answers until I mentioned his courtesy, I had or want thereof, in the columns of The Field. did but and wads shofc, plenty of cartridge cases,
with bribing you can do anything in the Turkish dominions. Also a few piastres judiciously expended, and no questions asked, had their effect, and soon I got all
not
to do for
know what
powder
still
On several occasions I powder I required. bagged fifty-four, eighty-three, sixty-six, seventy-two

the
I one day, besides other game. always took a donkey with large panniers, which were generally nearly full by the time we left off our
brace of cock in
I have shot six hares in half an hour. It was a common occurrence to kill two cock at one
labours.
shot,
but
once killed three.
morning towards the middle of January, my pony and donkey across an old bridge, and walked along the seashore, crossing the creek near the exit of a river by a boat. It was bitterly cold, and I did not care to fire at quail, the only game so far that I had seen. There must have been thousands of wild ducks in the sea, yet just out of shot but in the marshes I was bound for, they were also in hundreds, and far easier to get at than out in
Starting
one
I sent
the open water. Beyond the fisherman's creek there was a mass of sandy hillocks extending close on to Giblie some ten miles down the coast. Birds con-
tinued passing over head but out of shot, so I only got within range of a sand grouse. It allowed me to closely
was too proud to shoot it on the ground as I might have done, so allowed it to rise, making sure of it on the wing but my fingers
approach
it,
but
346

!
were so benumbed I made a clean miss Further on, on the beach, were five flamingoes. These birds were useless to me except for a few brilliant feathers, but there was a taxidermist 1 in the place who collected
and sold
fly
birds, so getting
up
as close as I could I let

;
both barrels and killed three

until I
I
but the
difficulty
was how to carry them

This
the
solved
met
my
attendants.
by hiding them
in a bush, in
which
stuck a stick with

spot,
my
handkerchief attached to mark
and
afterwards
continued
my
course.
Leaving the seashore I had to go through a heavy out of that three francolins (black piece of scrub
;
knocked down two and my spaniel retrieved them. I then missed another, but bowled over a hare. These I thrust into the capacious pockets of my shooting coat but not caring to burden myself with more game, I made for the rendezvous, now not far distant, where my nags were to be in I got there in half an hour. The servants waiting. had not arrived, but I could see them in the distance. It was too cold to sit down, so I walked about briskly, and put up two more hares, shooting one and missing the other. My people were soon up. Depositing the game in the panniers, I sent the moke back for the flamingoes, and mounting the horse rode on to some " " which were about a mile ahead. Long before bheels I got there I heard the quacking of numerous ducks. I got a pot shot, and at the report four teal and a duck lay dead one or two cripples went away, and the
partridge) rose.
I
;
Pole
who had been with Maximilian
in
Mexico in com-
mand
He
of a battery of Artillery, and had been terribly wounded. was a refugee, and his family were detained in Russia and all
his property confiscated.
Sport, in Syria.
347
the
sky
became
birds
almost
black
from
number
of
which the popping of my gun had aquatic alarmed. At first, hiding under some bushes as the birds flew past, I got many easy shots and bagged five and a half couple, but they soon became shy and kept out of range, still I had as many as I cared
for.
then turned
my
attention to the snipe, which
were "snicking" away right and left, but the light was not good and they flew low, so I did not kill as
many as
gathered
flush.
I
should have done.
eight birds.
only After this woodcock began to
In half an hour
had
plentiful,
lost interest in this game. They were so even along the roads, that they would get
up in threes and fours out of the cactus hedges, and We were sick thus they had lost their attraction. of eating them, but I thought I'd try how many The cover it was possible to kill in one day.
was low shrub, wet and marshy underneath, and 1 should have lost many birds but for my retriever, who was one of I comthe best dogs I have ever had in my life. menced luckily by killing two at one shot out of five this went that rose, and a third with the left barrel on till ten o'clock. I had then forty-seven brace of
that
they had
selected
inclined to be
cock,
eighteen
snipe,
seven
teal,
twelve
ducks,
two
francolins, flamingoes. After this performance I rested to have some breakfast. By the time that my meal was over it was
three hares and
three
just comfortably warm.

little
way
I
off,
and was
still
had put my gun down a munching some sandwiches

birds flying
when
saw a
lot of curious-looking
towards me, well within shot, but before I could get my double barrel they had passed. Their flight was with
348
outstretched necks, and they looked nearly as large as I thought they were some kind of gigantic swans. geese. I then made for a ridge of highland, on which
I
had now and then seen red-legged partridges, which,

"
" by the by, much resemble the chickor The birds lay well and got up in twos and
I
of India.
threes, so
soon
<:
"
grassed
fell
five.
They were
so fat that one that
had towered,
Descending that ridge I got another hare, and coming to a pond found it full of teal, and on its shore some ruffs. Of teal I had
burst in two.
but had never seen any male and a female in one shot, but the former had not assumed the fringe from which it derives its name. As the teal flew away I
shot very
many
in
my
life,
of the others.
killed a
gave them a raking shot and two fell. A little furtheron I got a big and a small bittern the former
;
resembles the bird
but the other
now and then shot was not much larger than
in England, a good -sized
I may here say that I kingfisher. bitterns on the Congo near Vivi,
saw even smaller but I never met
with the dwarfs in Europe, although bitterns were
enough in every marsh in Syria. Passing the and marsh attached, I saw eight geese feeding in pond, some open fields. It was hopeless to attempt to get near them on foot, so I got on my horse, a very steady, strong and quiet cream-coloured nag, who stood fire
plentiful
do
admirably. In fact all horses in that part of the world so, as the Arabs gallop about, on feast days, blazing
incessantly.
The geese being unalarmed I got They then showed signs of fear, fifty yards. putting up their heads and craning their necks, so I galloped in and was amongst them before they were
away
within
well off the ground.
killed
bird,
but another
Sport in Syria.
349
flew nearly one hundred yards before toppling over,

this
my
its
from
Another I saw separate comrades and alight near some bushes, whilst
dog
retrieved.
the rest continued their flight so I thought that it had received a pellet or two, as I had fired the first
;
barrel at the birds
when
;
ought to have been but it was nowhere to be seen. Hearing the flapping of wings behind me, I turned round and got
it
the horse, I approached amongst the bushes until I got to where
close together ; so getting off it in a roundabout way, hiding
right
I
fell.
long distances, and the bird found that one pellet had struck it in the
and
left,
at
head.
was a long way from home,
so turned
and
made
for a favourite snipe ground.
Passing a
field of
beans, which looked miserable enough, having been under snow some days, a lot of cock got up. I fired at the leading one two fell. Going to pick them up,
;
saw another fluttering on the ground a stray shot had struck it, so I actually got three cock with one I then got amongst cock and snipe and blazed shot. away till my head ached I saw five more of the big About 4 P.M. I had birds, but they were too far off. had enough. Counting the slain, I found that I had 137 brace of cock, 29 couple of snipe, 2 bitterns,
1
;
;
ruffs, 9
teals,
12 ducks, 2 francolins, 4 hares, 5
partridges (red legs), 3 geese, and 3 flamingoes. The game was being shovelled into the panniers
again, when I saw twelve or thirteen of the same big birds flying straight towards me. I crammed in two No. 2 shot cartridges, and as they passed overhead,
fired.
To my great joy, I brought two down, one dead and the other winged, and I found out that they were the great bustard, the first I had ever seen
35
had been in parts of India where had never come across them. I disthey exist, covered afterwards that the Ansaries in the hills, had killed a lot of bustards, by knocking them on the head,
or shot, for though I
I
owing to the intense cold, the birds were unable to When I went to Syria, I was told always to go fly. armed with revolvers, and to expect a man behind The Ansaries in every bush, ready to pot me. bear a bad but name, particular, except once when marching to Aleppo, I never saw the ghost of a bandit or a hostile person on the contrary, I met with the greatest civility and kindness everywhere, and I visited and lived with this people, and better fellows I never wish to meet. Most of the Syrian Arabs are armed with a double breechloader, principally of French make, and excellent shots they are too. Many of them, if they saw me out shooting, would join, and once a cock gave me a difficult shot as it flew round a boulder, at the edge of a steep hill. I made a clean miss. The Arab on my right brought
as
;
it
down
like a
called Talsarim, a
visit
them.
I,
chiefs living at a place distance inland, asked me to good So the Greek telegraph officer, son
!
man
Some
my
and
went to Giblie by boat, having sent on our horses and then, after a long and fatiguing ride, for
;
the greater part up mountains, we arrived at their There is no love lost between these stronghold. people the rightful owners of the soil, and the Turks and Syrian Arabs. They are a fine, stalwart, handsome race, reminding me of Afghans, and I have no doubt
they are a remnant of one of the
lost tribes
mentioned
by ancient
One gave us a writers, and in Scripture. us most and treated house, civilly, refusing to accept
Sport in Syria.
351
any remuneration
left,
for things supplied, but
by
advice of
my
Greek
friend, I
when we gave them some
powder, shot, and caps, for which they were very These people make no secret of it, but say grateful.
openly, that
if they were certain other powers would not interfere, they would drive the Turkish garrisons into the sea. Turks seldom go into their mountains,
or
trouble
their
inhabitants
in
to
pay
taxes.
like
The
the
country we were
was most
peculiar,
Giant's Causeway, only ten times magnified, rocks
upon
A gullies and narrow passages. had taken ten there about sanguinary fight place a when Turkish force had been annihibefore, years We had very good shooting too, principally lated.
rocks, deep
We were told that about five red-legged partridges. miles inland there were the ruins of an immense city, which they called " The City of the Sons of Israel.'' It had only once been visited by a European, a
Frenchman, who had taken photographic views of We gladly consented to go, walking portions of it. what I through may still call the Giant's Causeway, but constantly ascending. We went on for three hours over the water-shed, and, after descending, came to a tableland, the extremity ending in an abrupt precipice. The pinnacles around, and the plain, such as it was, were a mass of ruins, inferior to
Baalbec alone in the stupendous nature of their construction, but far grander in the variety and the
ornamental work of the buildings. There was not one edifice intact, but all showed with what
skill
they had been built

days.
was marvellous.
in
those
and the taste displayed ; there must have been giants Truly How otherwise account for the
352

collected,
and in some and in this city of the The legend said that it was destroyed by dead fire from heaven, and by an earthquake combined that its inhabitants had perished that it had never been inhabited since. The Ansaries themselves did
instances raised, at Baalbec
!
immense blocks of stone
not care to visit

it,
but thinking we should like to see had guided us to it. I have no doubt excavations
it,
would well repay the explorer, that is, if the Ansaries We strolled about allowed it, which I doubt.
amidst the ruins several hours, yet did not go half We did not find over them, and reluctantly left. five After days with our hosts, spending .any relics.
we returned
way.
The
to Giblie, shooting some florikan on the Ansaries are nominally Mussulmans, but in
reality
What
they have a secret religion of their own. it is exactly is not known to the generality of
the people themselves; only their

its secrets,
and
it is
Moolahs" know handed down from father to son,
"
who
man
Frenchare the high priests in perpetuity. declared that he had discovered a portion of the
having purloined a sheet of the written laws, and that one object of veneration was the creative those of woman. powers of man, but more especially Giblie itself must have been a place of importance under the Romans, as there is a portion of an
secret,
immense amphitheatre
baths
still
remaining.
The ancient
now form
the Turkish baths, so
common
in
all
towns in Syria and Egypt, and which are such a boon To utilise them there is nothing to to the traveller. If you employ a man to shampoo you, you pay.
may
may not as you think fit, make him a present. Our men neither asked for or solicited a douceur, and
or
Sport in Syria.
353
where given, it was taken with the utmost indifferI saw an assembly of the dancing dervishes and The men nothing more absurd can be conceived.
ence.
stand in a
there
is
one begins to spin like a tee-to-tum no other comparison the next follows, and
circle,
The in a short time even the lookers-on get giddy. men are dressed in a kind of skirt, which revolves
round them
like the dress of
an opera dancer.
In
time they drop
down one by
one, unable to go on
any
longer.
A A
<M
CC
OS
11
asnoif)
OS
1O
S9J13H
CO CO
CO CO
CO
T-H
CO
i1
rH rH
IUH
uaa^tg
^-l
(N
CO
CHAPTER XL
MAHSEER
FISHING.
When
boy
I
it is
was devotedly fond of

to
fishing,
and
participated in there India, "
my
heart's content.
In Southern
murral," but I
very little angling except for found I was nowhere in the pastime
to
although possessed of far superior tackle and the
same
fact,
bait, a live frog
an experienced native
in
such a person could give dozen and beat me at this sport.
me
eleven out of a
knack of working the frog water, of which I was altogether deficient, so being unsuccessful, I took very little interest in that kind In Burma I had too much to do, laying of sport. out roads and inspecting works, and seldom came across a river where good fishing could be had, yet I
caught a
fair lot
a peculiar on the surface of the
They had
with
fly in the
Shoay Ghein River.

;
The Burmese
called these fish gna-mein, the Bengalies bahsah. It is a superior article of food and grows to a very large size, but those about six to eight pounds
are the best
eating.
It
was not therefore
until I
.
went
I
to
Assam
that I took to fishing in earnest.
had bought some second-hand tackle from a Deputy-Commissioner, so when in Bagh Dooar, enA A 2
356
camped on the Manass, I threw in a spoon bait, and at my very first cast I hooked a large mahseer, but the line was very rotten, so broke, and the fish got away. I then fixed on the only other spoon I had, and threw it it was seized at once, in, trolling against the stream in succeeded a fish seven pounds in and I landing It was then all but dark, so we went home, weight. had a moiety of it boiled and the other made into The currie, and very good it was cooked either way.
;
next day
lost nearly the
then I caught a fish, eight pounds whole of my tackle in another, so

;
having no more at hand I gave fishing up for the time, and wrote to a tackle maker 1 for good rods, &c. &c.,
had upon their receipt, as is Of course I only give the result related further on. of one or two trips, fishing like shooting sambur in
and glorious sport
Burma, gets monotonous,

another.
for
one day
is
very like
B., 0. of the 44th GhoorkWe were not on a has, fishing trip. The hurried for time, so visited Nurting and Jowai. march from this stage to Jarain is beautiful, high tableland, well wooded, and with three rivers passing through it only one of these rivers was regularly means of huge bridged, the others were spanned by me reminded The slabs. stone very much country One plateau was particularly of the Neilgherries.
Some years back, General

and
I started
tableland at an elevation of 5,700 feet, lovely a river skirted it to the north, and another to the
south,
and both
full of
moderate-sized mahseer and a
spotted fish like a trout.
In the cold season the
"sholas" are
full of
1
woodcock; even when we were
Farlow, in the Strand.
Mahseer Fishing.
there,
357
we put up
a few, but did not get a shot.
On
clear day, Chirra Poonjie, famous as a former cantonment and as a place where the rainfall is fifty feet in
we desired we started very early, but to go, is fully twenty miles, we had got but a short way, when finding the road very bad, we sent our ponies back, with orders for
them
to go to Jyntiahpore
the year, is visible. As the distance to the Durrung, where
by another
route.
We
were walking the greater part of the day and could not find a drop of water anywhere, and were therefore very glad to get to a village called Sankur overlooking a precipice, at the foot of which flowed at three o'clock, Here we rested awhile and quenched with avidity our fearful thirst. But though near, we were yet far from our destination, " " as we had to descend into the cafion by means of steps which required the agility of a well- conditioned Even by the way we mountain goat to negotiate went we were not above half or three-quarters of a mile from the river, but it took us an hour to do it.
the Durrung
reached the Cossyah, or rather Jyntiah village at last, but to our horror, we found our hut had been
erected in the heart of the hamlet, instead of on the
We
we would have nothing to say to it, but went some 300 yards lower down the stream, and finding a pretty level place, about twenty feet
river bank, so
square,
we determined
to
make
it
our headquarters
soon enlisted the services of some of the natives, and made them collect poles, branches, leaves of trees, and erect a platform over the spot chosen, as the night dews are very heavy and very unThis we made our bedroom a little lower healthy.
;
We
358
down, another position, where we could put up a We table, chairs, &c., was adopted as a kitchen. were about fifty feet above the river, which is very
deep, and we could see, looking down, thousands of mahseer of all sizes, feeding about, a tolerably had brought a good reliable promise of sport.
We
supply of fishing-tackle with us, but the rest of our traps were behind, so as soon as we could procure
boats, General B.,
I.,
and 0. went
;
out.
B.
and
I.
had
never been here before

did
0.
knew
the place well.
We
not get a nibble, while 0. caught three fish, seven pounds, four pounds, and one pound reBy dark most of our traps had arrived, spectively. but only two servants the rest had remained at
;
Sankur to get drunk, so did not appear till late next " toko." While my servant day, when we gave them prepared the dinner, and the other man got the table and camp arranged, we submerged various bottles of wine and beer into the icy waters of the river, arranged our beds which owing to the confined space were touching one another, then took headers into the Durrung. By Jove how cold it was. We swam about as hard as we could for a few minutes, then emerged and dried ourselves and put on our About 8 P.M. dinner was ready, and a nightclothes. I never sat down to, for my boy John better repast
!
had excelled himself, the result being that we got a As we meal which was all that could be desired. were very tired from our long walk and intended to rise early, we went to bed immediately after we had fed, and slept the sleep of the weary. The next day the General and I were up and
swimming
about,
just
before
daybreak,
0.
with
Mahseer Fishing.
359
a grumble at such early rising, made tea. The water is so clear and deep, that headers can be taken
many
rocks into twenty and more feet of water, where every pebble at the bottom is visible.
off the
We
I obtained three boats, each manned by a Cossyah. took the first that came to hand and found I had
secured
if
boatman.
He had been
not the fastest boat, certainly the best in the habit of accompanying
Mr. Hind, the popular padre, and others, fishing, " I christened him Wind up," from the only words of
English which he knew, for whenever we came to a bad and shallow rapid, or struck a fish, he always
cried out,
"
Wind up
is
"
divided in its upper course into rapids with deep pools in the various gorges, while the sides of the hills, over the river, were perpendicular
This river
in
many places from 250 to 350 feet high, and densely clothed with verdure from the water to the
The Cossyah boats
safe,
tableland above.
broad in the beam, have a small

moderately steady, perfectly Not knowing which pelled.
are very light, false keel, are
my
Cossyah he took me up down, and 0. preferred fishing with the

;
easily proto I left it to way go, whilst B. went stream,

fly
and are
near
I went up to the beyond which no one can proceed, unless the boat is "portayed" and deposited beyond the waterfall, where there is another reach of half a mile, and where heavy fish are to be
home.
first barrier,
found.
I
was trolling with a spoon

still
bait, a
most deadly
lure for mahseer,
coming down in the we were descending
first
did not get a run going up, but rapid I struck one, but as
could
at such a rate, the boat
360

till
into smooth water, by was drowned. It was only two my prize pounds in weight. It was spotted, and might, by a stretch of imagination, be called an Indian trout. I then passed the village and our camping-place, and so on over four rapids to the very extremity of the furthest gorge, where there is a weir, without a single strike but on our way back I caught two fish, one three and a half pounds and the other one and a half pounds, and was beginning to think the fish not worth the candle but in the heaviest gorge, while
not be stopped
we got
which time
trolling
very deep with
my largest
rush
it
a big
fish.
At the
first
spoon on, I hooked took out about 100
I did not like to unduly check it, so yards of line. a sandbank and landed to play it. the to boat It got struggled desperately, and for half an hour I did not
The sun was not very high, but its rays poured on my face, and the perspiration ran down till I was nearly blinded. I then drew the fish into shallow water, and watched its every movement.
get a sight of
it.
knew by lying down on its side and head and leathery mouth into the sand to rubbing At one time, a get the hooks off, but without avail. fish every bit as big as the captive approached it, but
It
did
all
it
its
was received open mouthed. General B. now joined me and looked on, and eventually after threequarters of an hour's struggle, 1 landed about the handsomest specimen I ever saw. It weighed between twentyThe scale I had that trip eight and thirty pounds. was graduated only to twenty pounds, so to weigh it, we had to cut it in two it thus lost weight. For our next trip I had a scale which marked up to sixty pounds, but I never caught one more than forty-four
;
Mahseer Fisking.
pounds, but
361
I have known mahseer taken up to eighty I think Mr. Sanderson mentions and one pounds, over 100 pounds. A fish should be weighed (N.B.
directly it leaves the water;

dries.)
it
loses
weight as
it
We
then returned
it
to
till
camp,
swam, had
In quietly the rapids I caught two, a four and a half, and a half pounder, all on the same huge spoon bait I then dragged my boat over the weir, and in the pool beyond
the afternoon.
;
breakfast and took
hooked a monster, but it gave very little play, and soon succumbed it weighed forty pounds. 0. had bad luck, losing several fish and bagging only one with the spoon, a small two and a half pounder, but with the fly he caught thirteen, weighingB. caught two, four and altogether nine pounds. four- and -a- half pounds each, and found his line
;
rendered
fish hooking itself. have a they long snout, full of sharp teeth, and go at the spoon greedily do not and are so that the does not struggle, light angler
useless
by
gar
These are very voracious
feel
them, and
is
therefore unconscious that they are
on, but the spoon ceases to spin, and hours may be wasted without the chance of attracting the nobler
species.
The next day
had
all
the luck again.

:
caught
the following in the order shown four pounds, oneand-a-half pounds, thirty- five pounds, five-and-a-half
pounds, three and-a-half pounds the largest I took in the pool below the weir, very near where I caught the
;
a fish about eight pounds. I had exhausted it, and told the steersman to spear it, but he missed his blow, struck the hooks out of its
forty pounder.
I also lost
mouth which rebounded, and went deep
into
his
362
The next day, W. thigh, and I had to cut them out. of the Artillery, an old schoolfellow of mine, and L., of
the 44th, joined us. W. got a fish nine-and-a-half with the spoon, and several fish with the fly. pounds L. using only the fly, caught some fifty small fry. B.
,
caught one (eighteen pounds) with the spoon, and a lot with the fly, but they were of no size. 0. had very
bad luck, and caught only little ones. The next was our last day I hooked a lot of fair sized fish, but they all got off as the hooks either I was in an immense fish broke or straightened out.
;
for over
an hour, but at the last moment the hooks gave way, so I only landed one (six and a half pounds). W. one (two pounds), whilst B., 0., and L. got nothing.
In September, 1870, Colonel H., 0.,
B.,
and
I left
Shillong for the the Sylhet side.
hunting and fishing grounds on We started early on the 13th

it
and rode
to
Chirra
skin of course, for
Grot wet to the Poongie. does nothing but rain there, but
as our things had been sent on some days before, we had dry clothes to put on, and found a good dinner
and a roaring September
awaiting us. 14. We ordered our fishing tackle and breakfast ahead, giving the people an hour's start Our impedimenta was to before we made a move.
fire
follow.
reached Terreah Ghat at nine, got four boats with some difficulty, and after breakfast went
We
up the
river.
This stream used to be famous for
mahseer, but the Cossyahs had taken to poisoning its waters with the Cocculus Indicus and strychnine, until
Moreover the whole of the bed of the stream is a mass of limestone, and the action of the water has undermined many rocks, so
but few
fish
were
left.
Mahseer Fishing.
363
when a fish is struck it is necessary to keep an extra taut line, because if you do not, the unfortunate will get under the hollows beneath the boulders, and then good-bye to your tackle, for you cannot force the
fish out, so
you have
either to cut the line or
you
are
saved the trouble of doing so by its chafing against the sharp edges. The boats here are much heavier
than on the Darrung, and the boatmen are lazy Chittagong or Dacca Mussulmans very ill affected to our
in order.
government, and thus require a stern hand to keep them H. got one fish, eight pounds, another three
a lot of small ones with the
pounds, 0. three pounds and two-and-a-half pounds, and I got one three pounds. fly.
In the afternoon B. caught a three, two, and five pounder; 0. a three and two pounder, and some small ones with the fly. I got three twenty, nine, and two
pounders.
;
We moved camp to-day, trying
a short cut
to Lakat had great difficulty in getting there, as our boatmen kept running away. At length we reached a sand-bank at dark, and encamped there. We
heard
fish
splashing about
all
night, but did not think
they were mahseer.
September 16th. As we started early this morning was the only one who threw out a line, and I almost immediately hooked a heavy fish. My comrades were close by and all pulled up to witness the tussle. Some asserted that I had the line too loose, others that I had it too tight, and so on but without heeding them
I
;
in the least, I kept steadily playing the fish in own way, and at last reduced the captive to
last
my
its
It had already turned belly uppermost gasp. several times, and we all admired its grand proportions,
for the fish
was undoubtedly an immense and well-made
364

effort it
one when with a last expiring
turned over
fine a
and every hook broke.

fish as I
fish.
Thus
I lost
about as
After this everybody began to was in the same boat with me, using my tackle, but I got all the luck. About 10 A.M. it began to rain. B. was leading, and as our boat was approaching a rapid, we saw him coming towards us, fast to a large fish, and with the whole of his line out, so he had perforce to follow it down stream as he passed I hooked a large fish, and had also to follow mine. I got a thirty-two pounder, but B. lost his. I had no sooner thrown out the spoon again, than I struck another fish, and landed one of twenty-two pounds. About eleven we arrived at a hut which had been built for us. It was near the weir where last trip I Col. H. had nine fish caught my heaviest fish.
0.
;
ever struck.
weighing, forty-three pounds,
the
largest
thirteen
pounds
six
B., six fish,
weighing twenty-seven pounds,

;
the largest weighing eleven pounds
0.
had one, a
pounder
had
five
weighing sixty-six pounds,
In the evening the largest being thirty-two pounds. we went up the stream through the gorge, and the result was, H. caught one, six pounds, two, four pounds
each.
I
caught
five
nine, five, two, one-and-a-half,
and threequarter pounds respectively, all on the B. same spoon which I ,had been using all day. 0. seven fish, caught two, ten and four pounds
;
weighing
pounds.
fish.
forty-seven
pounds,
to
largest
twenty-six
Our
bag
day was 255
pounds
of
September 17. I went back towards the sandbank below the weir and I caught seven fish fortyone,
twelve, nine-and-a-half, four, four, three, four
Mahseer Fishing.
pounds each. pounds each
pounds.
365
B.
H. caught three, four, half, seven 0. one, eight one, eight pounds
;
We
all lost
several fish.
September 18. To-day, in a rapid, 0. caught two fish H. two, one thirty and twenty pounds each I seven and each two five In pound pounds. got
;
the afternoon, 0. caught three, seventeen, seventeen,
and
four
six
pounds H. two
;
ten, three-and-a-half.
got
six three-and-a-half, twenty-six, six, fourteen, eleven, four, three-and-apounds. B.
fourteen,
and two-and-a-quarter pounds. The fish caught in the afternoon were all taken off the sandbank where we had slept on our way up. No sooner was the spoon in the water than a fish rushed at it. A small rivulet fell into the main stream and the best place was the junction; it was about the best half hour's work I ever saw. B. lost me a good fish, about fourteen pounds in weight, by insisting on gaffing it behind the shoulder in what he termed a scientific manner. Now the scales of a mahseer are very big, lying closely one upon the other, and as tough as tin plates, so
half, two,
after failing in his scientific stroke twice, in the third
attempt he knocked the hooks out of the
fish's
mouth.
As the mahseer was

the
boat.
close to the boat, all

gill to
he had to do
lifted it into
was to insert the gaff into the

that I
have
After these futile attempts, no wonder look upon the gaff as useless for mahseer a
;
two pronged spear
is
infinitely better.
H. and B.
I slept
re-
turned to Terreah Ghat, whilst 0. and sandbank.
on the
September
19.
I fished for
run, whilst no sooner was
a long time without a O.'s spoon in the water
366

fish
than there was a
on
it.
did at last what
should have done at
first
examined
my
one
tackle,
and
found the spinning gear out of order. I put it to fourteen, four and rights and then caught three fish
six
pounds
each.
pounds, followed
twenty-six by four, twenty-two, twenty, fourteen

five,
0.
caught
and four pounds each. We bagged 736 pounds of fish, of which I got 276 pounds, 0. 258|- pounds, H. 105|- pounds, B 96 pounds. In October I
again visited this river, McW., Deputy-Commissioner, I had capital going a part of the way with me.
two fish, each three sport catching the following pounds these were the bassah or gna mein of the
;
Burmese
capital eating,
but afford no
:
sport.
The
following weight of mahseer I also secured
537 pounds,
and eight more bassah weighing thirty-five pounds. In September of the following year, in four days I caught 376 pounds of fish three largest forty-four, forty, thirty- six pounds, and the rest from twenty-eight
;
to four
fish
pounds besides of course losing many other hooked but not landed. In September, 1872, V., I got of the llth Hussars, and I had capital sport. 277 pounds of mahseer; V. fell out of the boat and hooked his man twice, and I had to cut the hooks out. In the Manass I caught a lot of fish, but the largest was under thirty pounds, and since that some officers have caught in that river, fish up to sixty pounds. Where 1 I had trolled over and over again without getting a a run, a Lascar, with a lump of sodden rice, caught a mahseer eighty pounds. 1 Col. C., one of the best shots and fishermen in Assam, and who was in the com;
In the Brahmapootra
off
Gouhatty.
Mahseer Fishing.
367
mission for years, has caught them up to sixty pounds.
Nightingale hooked a sixty-pound mahseer in the gorge of the Godavery, close to Bison Hill, and it took him twelve hours to land it, but judging by
Col.
my own
they between twenty and thirty pounds.

;
experience, heavy fish don't give much play, those best worth catching are often sulk
CHAPTER
XII.
IN THE AZORES.
WHERE
to settle
and what
to do with one's self in

after a life of
Europe on a limited income,

spent in India,
did not know.
not,
freedom
with a certain amount of luxury, I I liked Syria, but my belongings did
and
after trying various parts of France, Spain Portugal, I crossed over to the Azores, intending
and
to settle for a time in the large island of St. Michael's, but I found the place so full, principally with
induced by the representaI tions of a naturalised Portuguese American, crossed over to Fayal, but before doing so, I visited
visitors, that
American
Mary's, the only island where numbers of the French partridges

St.
there are
left.
any
the
All
islands once
had them, but they are now virtually There are a few left in Pico, but so extinct in most. few as not to count, and also an occasional one is
St.
seen in St. Michael's, but in

plentiful.
I
Mary's they are
fairly
had excellent sport with quail and blue
This is the rocks in the three days I spent there. where no the volcanic island of eruption group only
has taken place since their discovery. All the islands are well- stocked with quail, which are not migratory, and which were probably introduced but how to
;
In the Azores.
369
account for the existence of numerous woodcock, also On arrival at the island non-migratory, I know not.
we put up
at
Mrs. Edwards' hotel, an Irishwoman
There married to an English-speaking Portuguese. we were fairly comfortable, and the charges were
moderate but very shortly afterwards they parted with their interest in it to a native of the isles, and We were fortunately able things went to the bad.
;
to
secure a very good house, about a mile out of Horta, the capital, belonging to a Mr. Lane, who
had formerly been manager of the only bank in the It was built on Indian lines, that is, it was place. one-storied, had verandahs on three sides, ample accommodation inside the house, and plenty of outThe difficulty of getting furniture offices and garden. was There not a decent mattress procurwas great. we had to manufacture them ourable in the island
;
selves, stuffing
them with the husks
of the Indian corn.
The pillows were
stuffed with a kind of wild cotton.
the island there are neither springs nor streams but, during the rains, rivulets however, these cease The islands are wholly volcanic, with the monsoon.
;
On
but none have been in an active state for

past.
many
If
years
live
The markets
are fairly supplied.
Meat, fowls
and wine of the country good and cheap.

like
you
one of the inhabitants, a very small income will I got suffice, but the Customs duties are prohibitive.
over a few hams and a side of bacon.
I was not only on the articles themselves, but on the charged duty salt in which they were packed The Portuguese are the same everywhere, a grasping and a dirty race. I
!
allude to the upper or governing classes in the first There is an charge, and to the lower in the second.
B B
37

influx
immense
blood.
is difficult
and mixture of native races
in their
A pure Portuguese
to find, for the
of European descent solely, Arabs during their occupation
of Spain
and Portugal
left scarcely a
behind them.
Not that
little
trace of
pure European Arab blood is
detrimental to beauty on the contrary, many of the most beautiful of the Spaniards have Arab blood in their veins but the Portuguese have intermarried
with the low races from the western coast of India, and with Africans from Loanda, which is certainly
not an improvement to the breed as it existed before, nor to their manners and customs as they exist now.
Very many
of the
Fay ale se
get
avoid the compulsory military as naturalised Americans, and laugh at the authorities. Smuggling goes on to a great extent. A former
away on the sly service, and return
to
American Consul, of some eighty years ago, had realized a large fortune in the islands, and had spent immense sums in importing tropical and other plants, and they all did equally well. His heirs were the
princely merchants of the isle, but when I was there, they appeared to be only too anxious to sell their pro-
They had houses perty and to return to the States. and lands which they could not sell, yet like the dog
in the manger, they
would not
let
and preferred letting them go
to rot
them on hire, and ruin. They
were also very chary of assisting strangers, especially

the English, and although I applied to them for information about the shooting, I could get only vague answers, but I soon found it out for myself, and I
was then a thorn in

(quail)
they shot,
their sides, because for every bird When I first I killed a dozen.
arrived I had broken the mainspring of
my
gun, so
In the Azores.
;
371
had to send it to England to be replaced then Mr. Edwards very kindly got me the loan of a muzzleIt must have been fifty years old, for the loader. 1 locks were not reliable, but better barrels, and nipples though no doubt they were fearfully honeycombed, never existed, and in a day or two I got to shoot
with
it
very well indeed.
then heard that a shop-
keeper in the town had some breech loaders for sale. The price asked was 5 each. They I visited him.
were of Belgian make, not bad, had top snap lever, I picked out locks back action, which worked easily.
and purchased it. It was a handy weapon, and it was cheap at the price. I got so used to it, that when my own gun came back, I oftener used this Liege weapon than my 4 2 -guinea one. I
one,
tried
it,
then wrote to the firm at Liege, I may as well mention them, for they make guns and rifles at Laloux and Dresse. The ridiculously low prices
highest price for their hammerless, best quality gun, with any action, is but seven guineas and the original
;
price of the
gun
had bought
in
Fayal
found was in
Liege 1 6s. kd. They sell only wholesale now, but a few years ago, they would supply any one retail at wholesale prices. Anything connected with the gun As an instance, is trade exceedingly cheap in Liege. I may say that, wanting an extra pair of barrels to a
No. 16 bore, I found I could only have them fitted for from ten to fifteen guineas in England, yet I got
Damascus twist
francs, about
barrels
8s.
made
and
in
it
Belgium
is
for sixty
Qd.,
well
known
that
very
in
many
of the barrels used
by slop-shop makers
England come from abroad.

1
By
Reilly.
B B 2
37 2
Quail in Fayal
abounded
they have
lost their
Blue migratory instincts so breed in the islands. rock pigeons were in thousands rabbits not plentiful
;
the hilly and well-wooded What they got to eat is a puzzle, for there portions. were no marshes, and as the surface is disintegrated lava, they could not force their bills through it in
no hares
woodcocks in
all
search of their ordinary food, and even if they did I don't believe there is a worm in the island, still they
exist
and are
difficult
fine
plump
birds.
To get
very
the
work, and beaters are hard to
them is obtain, and

at
very heavy. The Portuguese content themselves with flight shooting, when the birds are
bush
is
pairing and out of season, and kill a good many, and I am sorry to say I was told the American residents
followed their bad example. This scolopax is more numerous in Pico than in Fayal, and I shot a few in
each island, but the trouble and expense were more than the game was worth. The vines grow luxuriantly
the principal grain produced is maize, and directly a crop has been gathered, lupins are thrown
;
broadcast, take root, attain an
immense
size,
but when
on the point of flowering are all dug up and interred into the ground, so do in place of manure. Of course a few fields are left here and there for seed, potatoes
flourish, chilies are perennial.
Apricots are abundant in Pico, and a basket load can be purchased for a Fish is very plentiful, but not good of its shilling.
kind.
The
sea fishing
is
excellent.
Using hand
lines
the sea-bream and other kinds of fish up to three pounds weight can be caught almost faster than the
extra lines can be baited.
fish,
very
like a pike,
which
trolling we caught a runs to fifteen pounds, but
By
In the Azores.
the largest
373
we ever got was

for tunny.
eight pounds.
The great
These monsters of the deep fishing run to over one hundred pounds in weight, but do
was
Whales are caught on the sport. Americans had a pair of shears for coast, and the hoisting them on shore and a regular boiling-house
not afford
for extracting the
oil.
much
Cray
fish as large as lobsters
were common.
Turtles were
occasionally obtained,
and one which would delight the soul of an alderman could be bought for a dollar. Sweet potatoes were
another staple product of the island.
The "tipparie
"
or
Cape gooseberry, a delicious
fruit,
grows wild all over the island. How it got there is a puzzle. Tea and coffee, if looked after, do well. Oranges
used to be the great article of export, but the trade has fallen off, and now pine apples under glass are
cultivated and principally exported, to England, where they are sold as English hot-house produce I left a few
!
both Indian and African, whether they mango will come to anything remains to be proved. Guavas
trees,
were common, but not good. Plantains throve well and were excellent and consisted of several varieties.
The climate is damp, the sea "mistral
"
the spray destroys all cultivation it everywhere there are huge, ugly, high walls as a sheltering measure which answer the purpose but
frequent, and reaches. Thus

is
planted and protected from There are no snakes this spray grow into a jungle. The fields are separated by walls or noxious animals.
partially.
Tomatoes
if
about four feet high, built of loose stones these are a sad nuisance to the sportsman, as during a day's tramp
;
he has to climb over
fifty or
more and has
to be care-
ful, for it does not take
much
to crumble
them
to
374
pieces,
and then there
is
a great hullabaloo.
There
used to be no harbour, but a breakwater has been in

course of construction for some years past, and will no doubt be finished some day. This is a favourite spot for condemning ships, and a lucrative trade is carried
on in derelicts by the people. These vessels are heavily insured of course, are sold for a song, and somebody
makes a good thing of it. During the struggle in America, between North and South, large fortunes were made in the island, and also during the time when trade was carried on by India-men to the East,
as these islands were a place of call, but with the exception of St. Michael's, all the other islands are going
down.
If they
Portuguese
falls
were peopled by any nation but the they might become favourite resorts,
especially during winter, as though snow occasionally and frosts are not unknown, yet the climate is a
great improvement on our own.
The peak
of Pico, over
7,000
ft
high,
is
snow, and
ice is
always enveloped in a thin covering of often brought down for the use of the
wealthier inhabitants
during the heat of summer. There are no incidents to record of sport in these islands.
quail I ever got in a
I
The most
day were forty-eight
couple; generally contented myself with about twenty brace. Five woodcock in one day is my best bag. I
I shot but few rabbits. kept no record of blue rocks. These remarks I have added because some reader
may wish
St.
to
go
there, but he
;
had better choose either
Michael's or Fayal
in the latter very
many
learnt
of the
common
it in people speak English, having It is best to take second-hand furniture and America.
everything you require, even servants, for you will then have less duty to pay than if you import them
In the Azores.
afterwards. There
is
375
now ply
to
Fayal and
a mail once a fortnight. Steamers St. Michael's from America; there
a contraband article
were only sailing vessels in my day. Gunpowder is and has to be smuggled. I got
mine over from
But on first going there you might put any quantity between your clothes in your boxes, as the chances are they would not be exYork.
New
amined, but anything coming afterwards by steamer or sailing vessel is rigidly searched. Shot and gun caps
stove
can be bought, but wads had better be taken. A is requisite in winter; there are a few to be picked
7
up
in the island, but they are scarce
and
dear.
Fuel
it
can be purchased.
Every house has attached to

which
is
large reservoirs for water, off the roofs and stored.
carefully collected
curable in the islands.
only water proIt takes two hours to cross

It is the
by regular passenger boats manned and pulled by Portuguese. At the landing place, there is a fair inn where one can put up for a day or two, but beyond a few partridges and woodcock, there is not much to recommend a visit.
Fayal
to
Pico,
from
Servants are the plague of our lives everywhere, they

are
curse in Fayal.
We
tried
Portuguese, pure
and mixed, and full-blooded negroes and negresses, and it was a toss-up which were the worst. The laws A man we are absurdly lenient amongst themselves. had, who did odd jobs now and then, stole some of I our spoons and forks and was caught in the act. " Are they silver or took him to the magistrate.
"
articles.
electroplate "
he
enquired, alluding to the stolen
"
he, "
" Fancy," said electroplate," I replied. as that." a trifle such a fellow for prosecuting poor
Only
When
will the case
come on
"
?
"
enquired.
Oh,
376

"
in five or six months," lie said,
on probably
prisoner
is let
for another year. out on his own recognizances to appear
and then be carried In the meantime the
when
called
upon."
"Under
these circumstances,"
"
replied I don't
I,
you may
as well let the
man go
at once, for
months more in the island, or to be at the expense and trouble of a protracted trial of a case which is palpable, as the property was found
to stay six
mean
on the person of the accused by the constable who took him in charge." " We consider such an offence
very
the
trivial,"
he
said,
and there was an end of
it.
Had
offender been any nationality but Portuguese, he would have been walked off to prison and kept
there without trial for months.
The
islands are priest-
ridden. There are people living on them over 100 years of age. In the days of their prosperity the better
classes
built superb churches and dwelling-houses the former are still kept up, but the latter are decay-
had
ing, as their
owners have no longer the jneans of keep-
The shops are excellent, well ing them in repair. supplied with English, American and German goods,
which are sold at fairly cheap rates. The shoemakers and curriers are also good. Both red and white wine are made, and are deemed excellent by those who partake of them.
A good
deal of spirit
is
also distilled in
Fayal beer, and doubtless now

tariff imposed.
alities,
as well as in Pico. "
Both German and English " lager from America, can be
bought, but at fabulous prices, owing to the heavy
There are loose women of many nation-
except English, who live in a quarter by themTheir livelihood is derived principally from selves.
sailors visiting or passing
thing but attractive to look
by the islands. They are anyat, and more brazen-faced
In the Azores.
than the same
class in
377
any part of the world. The Portu-
guese steamers are manned by people of the country, with the exception of the engineers, who are all English.
I
use,
imported a pointer, but did not find her of much as quail lie well and are easily walked up. For
Tackle for sea fishing can be got in the
woodcock a team of well-broken spaniels would be a

blessing.
island.
CHAPTER
XIII.
1
A WEST AFRICAN EPISODE.
HEARTILY
face
tired of
an inactive
life,
volunteered
for service in
West
Africa, the deadliest hole
on the
station
Whilst in command of an outon the Quillo I had to visit certain outposts, and finding an old friend, manager of a factory, he
of the earth.
invited
me
to go with
him
to certain localities in the
where it was supposed petroleum was to be and found, perhaps coal. He had an establishment at Bonga, an island some three or four days' journey off, and situated on a beautiful river, the name of which
interior,
joined him, he received an him to return to Liverpool by the next steamer, to consult on matters connected with trade, so although he could not accompany me himis
unnecessary. order directing
Just as
he placed his boatmen and house on the island at my disposal and as I was anxious to report on
self,
;
the rumours so long current to the government I was serving, I started a few days after. I had eight
Kruboys with me,

but
I
as I
was told game was

stores.
is
plentiful,
did not take
many
The
1
buffalo of this part of Africa
that described
Related by a Friend on the Congo, the late Major V.
A
by
West African Episode.
379
and is quite distinct from its relative I had already shot some of in the south and east. were these, as they plentiful on the banks of the I had a good river and near Lakoja on the Niger.
Chaillu,
Du
burning twelve drachms, which I never used except on elephants or hippopotami and a '577, both by Westley Richards
battery, a
No.
bore double
rifle
and
or "
besides, a 12 bore "Paradox," suitable for ball head boy gloried in the name of shot.
My
Blue Ruin."
He was
least
man, stood at
a splendid specimen of six feet three inches, with
been immensely powerful
a chest of forty-four or forty-five, and would have if he had been in the habit
of exercising his muscles. These Krumen are the in natives West Africa who will work but are only
;
generally useful only as sailors they will not carry loads inland, for they have very little pluck about as much as a grasshopper. went up the river for a
;
We
week
until the shallows were reached, then left the
banks.
boat in charge of some villagers who lived on the My men were lightly loaded and we took a
;
north-easterly course soon after I met a native chief whom I had seen at Bonga, who was " interior " " bound," and after a palaver and a dash he agreed to take me to the elephant and gorilla country.
We
generally started at daylight, I going on either side our route, with a couple of gun-carriers, under the
guidance of a native of these parts, in search of game,

whilst the chief and his ragtag and bobtail went by beaten tracks to the proposed halting-place. Occasionally the chief accompanied me out shooting, which I
did not encourage.

a lot of game, but
I was very successful and killed what astonished my sable com-
380
Incidents of Foreign Fîeld Sport,

I
pan ion and the Africans was the ease with which
rolled over elephants, formidable beasts like hippopotami and rhinoceros with one or two bullets each.
friendly, and we got on well I so often very together, gave him a tot of grog. had gone a good distance inland, fully 100 miles,
The leader appeared very
We
but the Kruboys did not like penetrating so far, and Blue Kuin often said to me, " Master, go no furder. Country bad people bad chief very bad." But I
only laughed at him and told him I wanted to see the hot spring, and crevasses with gas issuing therefrom,
which I had heard of, and which now were only a few days off from where we then were but the poor fellow shook his head and was dead against our pro;
couple of days after a successful hunt, " Master, again came to me and said, chief very bad man hate master want big gun, and " will kill we and master." Why, Blue Kuin," I
ceeding.
Blue Kuin
"
replied,
our
trip.
promised to give the big gun to him after Why should he hate me and want to kill
me?
I givre
him plenty
"
of dash."
"I no know,"
replied truth."
my follower, but master find out I speak A couple of days after this, the chief told me
in the gorilla country,
to a forest
and that he would where the man-monkey abounded, but said I need not take more than one of my men, as he was going with me himself and would give every assistance. So accordingly, we started at daybreak next morning Blue Ruin carried my big rifle, I the '577, but my attendant was very despondent and
take
we were then
me
kept warning me not to trust to my ebony acquaintance " " as he was very wicked and wanted to make chop
of me
;
in other words, to kill me.
But the idea seemed
A
to
381
me
absurd
death.
the chief could gain nothing by my The dash I had promised him he could only
;
;
get in
of
Bonga and would

death.
to me, he
certainly lose
it
in the event
my
happen face on the coast, and would lose his trade entirely and would probably be killed by his subjects. We started very early, and the chief had more men with him than I approved of, but he said they would leave him when we commenced our beat or hunt, and go on to his village, which was only a short way beyond the forest inhabited by the apes. Blue Euin was now in a greater funk than ever. The main body
;
Moreover, should anything sinister would never be able to show his
a beaten path, we left, and went to the northward, over detestable ground. Here, I certainly saw indications of petroleum, or
of the natives,
travelled
who
by
some
allied
mineral
oils.
Iron, stone,
and copper
also saw.
At
11 a.m.
we
halted for breakfast.
The chief and I were seated under a tree, Blue Euin had gone to a stream close by for a can of water my guns were resting against a log close by. While amicably conversing, I was seized suddenly, and before I could offer any resistance, my arms were tied behind
;
me
"
as soon as I was helpless
my quondam friend gave

me
of he."
vent to his mirth, laughed and mocked at
White man beat me

I,
make chop
saying, "
But,"
said
in as mild a tone as I could assume, for I
was
life
I have never struck you in my boiling over with rage, or done you any injury, on the contrary, I have given
"
you many things and promised you a good dash on our return to Bonga." But the brute only jeered at me I am sure he was more than half drunk, for he kept " White man beat repeating the same thing, viz., that
;
382
Incidents of Foreign Field Sport
of he." Then I heard a great was from Blue hullabaloo, Kum, he had made a poor gallant resistance, for the few clothes he wore, were in tatters, but both he and I had been taken unawares, and so were at the mercy of the drunken brute. Blue Euin " What I tell ? We Master live to said, die, we live to " die meaning that we should be killed. I, on the other hand, thought it was a mere dodge to get a very " dash," or present, from me, and all that we should big have to undergo would be detention, until he got an order on Bonga and had it cashed, so I did not despair, as did my attendant. We were marched the whole of that day till late at night, and then I was thrust into one shed, and Blue Euin into another, in which he cried and bewailed his fate the whole night long. For food I was offered some filthy " chickwanga," a decoction made from fermented manioc, a mixture that I never could stomach, so I declined it, and conchief, chief
it
!
make chop
tented myself with a drink of water. By daylight we were on the move again, and towards sunset arrived at a considerable village, with a quadrangular space
in front, a
banyan
tree at one extremity,
and a baobab
at the other.
and as I declined was again locked up alone the "chickwanga" again, a few half- ripe plantains were given me. The whole night long hammering went on but about 11 A.M. it ceased, and I was led Soon a procession appeared. In front marched out. some armed men, one with a huge sword of state, others followed with most discordant instruments but when I saw the chief himself, I almost burst out He had laughing, his appearance was so ludicrous.
I
;
; ;
a tall bell-topper on his woolly head, a scarlet waist-
A
taloons,
size.

coat,
383
coat, a sky-blue swallow-tailed
and green pan-
ing at
which had been made for a man half his He assumed a most dignified air, and, scowl" Ha ha white man no kill gorilla. me, said,
!
Gorilla kill he."
drunk
again.
The fool, I thought, was assuredly Then he made for a raised dais, and
;
placed himself on a block of wood, in lieu of a chair the musicians and sword-bearer ranging themselves
around him.
Between the two
trees I
stockade had been erected.
have mentioned, a strong I could see my guns
were resting up against the

not far
off.
mud
walls of a house
"
Oh
if I
could but get at them, I'd
astonish the niggers," I mentally thought, for I had my pockets full of cartridges. Afterwards I heard
that the chief, emulous of
my
success in the sport-
ing line, had that day fired the 8 -bore, and had been knocked head over heels, thus the guns were tabooed so out of the four barrels, three were still loaded, as the natives were afraid to meddle with them after seeing the disaster which had befallen their king. Three taps of a drum were now given there was a great surging to and fro of the crowd, which opened up, and some twenty men came forth dragging along a huge gorilla, which they thrust into the stockade, at the same time cleverly released the ropes which bound him, instantly shutting the gates to. Almost immediately afterwards poor Blue Euin was dragged
;
;
to the front.
for
He
struggled in vain, there were too
him to contend against, and it would have many been better had he husbanded his strength, instead of
uselessly expending "
fellow,
it.
?
"
Oh
what
say
We
cried the poor live to die, we live to die."

!
master
"
384
The gate of the stockade was partially opened, and the Kruboy thrust in. I could see all that went on. The anthropoid was emaciated, looked sickly in face, and had a large swelling under the left ribs, which, in a man, would represent an enlarged spleen. He was nearly six feet high, had he stood upright, he would have been that fully. His vis-d-vis, Blue Euin, was fully six feet three inches, and modelled like an Achilles or Hercules, but his power was useless, for the poor fellow was half dead with fright, and did nothing but bewail his fate. The ape eyed him for a few minutes, and then crouching somewhat, propelling himself by his feet and fore arms, his knuckles doubled
up, the weight resting on them, he advanced on the " Look out, Blue Euin " I cried, " hit him African.
!
on the lump under his ribs with all your might." But I might just as well have spoken to a monument, as to the poor frightened creature. The man and ape I shall never forget the horrid sight. In less closed.
time than
it takes me to tell the tale, my poor boy asunder was torn by the gorilla, and the remains No sooner was my scattered over the enclosure.
faithful follower
dead than
I
was seized and thrown

fate,
into the
compound.
anticipated a similar
but
knew
in
that a blow inflicted
on an enlarged
;
man, proves instantly fatal so I determined to have a fight for dear life. My antagonist was greatly blown by his exertions, and did not
spleen
me to swing about back circulation, which had get my been impeded in them by having been tied so long Now these anthropoids rend not only together. with their fore feet or arms, but by their hind ones
attack
me
at once.
This enabled
arms, and
so
A
as well.
first

for
385
The great thing
me
to
do would be to
avoid the rush, hit out for the enlarged spleen, and repeat the same tactics. The brute's rush was under his I dodged weak. forearm, as he tried to
seize
me
as
I
my
ribs,
might
he had done Blue Euin, and with all let him have it right and left below the
at the
same time jumping
aside.
The
gorilla
staggered forward a pace or two, blood poured from his mouth and nostrils, and almost instantly the giant brute fell dead.
The king and people were paralysed with astonishment, and I did not give them time to recover,
but thrusting aside the fastenings of the gate, rushed The people fled like sheep, but the chief reout.
mained rooted to his seat, so I seized a rifle, gave a few bounds forward, and grasped the sword of state, and with it clove the treacherous villain to the chin. Into the ruck of the savages, right and
left, I
emptied both barrels as they dispersed in one
direction, while I ran off in another, taking
my
two
The death of guns with me. I was not pursued. the king, and the flight of his subjects, had such an effect on those who had the remainder of my
they released them, and In a couple of days we also took to their heels. were reunited, and I shot enough game to keep us
followers
in
charge, that
so on the ninth day got to my boat, and four afterwards to Bonga. days did not delay in preparing a punitive expebut the gang had dition, and returned in force
alive
We
fled,
leaving goods behind them. The vultures had picked the bones of the chief, the Kruboy, and the ape clean, and we found the remains of
all
their
'.
c c
386
two
other
natives, probably
shot
by me when
fired into the
burnt the village, buried the remains of poor Blue Euin, and collected
ruck of them.
We
the skeleton of the anthropoid.
The
king's head I
kept as a memento of my wonderful escape. I heard afterwards that the neighbouring tribes
had seized the fugitives from the village when my adventure became known, and had sold them into So the only thing I had to regret was slavery.
the death of the
conciled
his
Kruboy
to
but a good " dash

loss.
I
"
re-
was shortly afterwards attacked by the African fever, and had to leave that part of the country, which I have no
relatives
his
ambition to
revisit.
CHAPTER
XIV.
ESCAPE FROM HYDROPHOBIA.
AFTER being relieved
at
Rajahmundry,
ing to head-quarters at Vizianagram. sent on as the season for shooting was past.
was returnMy guns I had

I
We halted
for a day at Juggumpett. The weather was sultry and there were only two beds, or rather cots, available in the traveller's bungalow. Dragging these into the
put our mattrasses on them for my wife and children, whilst I threw some razies on the
verandah,
I
floor for myself.
During the day there had been some commotion in camp, for a pony lent to one of our native officers by the Maharajah of Vizianagram had been bitten by a jackal, and several of the villagers had suffered also in the same way, but I never gave the matter a serious It was a bright night, for the moon was at thought. At that time I was as hard as nails, having the full. been constantly shooting and rowing, and had acquired
a habit of sleeping with one arm over my head. position stretching the muscles of the back.
large Sussex spaniel and a pointer
I
This
very
had with me, had
made their bed at the further end of the verandah. About 11 P.M. I was awoke with a sensation of a red
c c 2
388
hot needle being thrust into

tion of the neck.
With
my back, near the junca howl I jumped up and
found a jackal standing over me. The pillow I seized and commenced to bolster the brute, in the meanwhile it trying to get at my legs. My wife and children
seeing
me
fighting, as it were, air only, for the jackal
being on the further side of me, they could not see it, thought I had gone mad and begun to yell too. This disover the jackal, and sent him flying, but passing where the servants were asleep, it bit two, a horse-keeper and a grass
in, rolled
turbed the dogs
who rushed
cutter.
My
own wound was very
superficial as only
a drop or two of blood came from
dogs, I am to were not glad night shirt and say, injured. the skin of back, especially near the junction of
it.
My
My
my
the neck, which was well stretched, had saved me, for none of the virus had entered but it was very different with the two poor natives, who, three parts naked, had nothing to intervene between the poison and their
;
wounds.
I at
once sent for the native dresser,

injuries
who
washed and cauterised the
and bound them
up. Early the next morning the jackal again turned up, but this time it was mobbed and killed by the Sepoys.
On examination it
natives
turned out to be
tailless.
who had been
bitten died a few
Both the months after-
wards in the
to
civil dispensary at Waltair of hydrophobia. Six months after that we were en route to Bimlipatam
embark
for
Burma.
It
was a pitch dark night,
made darker by the shade of the huge banyan and indiarubber trees lining each side of the road we were march-
Suddenly there was a yell, a scramble, and a bandsman was knocked over, his instrument broken, and the whole column brought to a standstill. I was
ing over.
Escape from Hydrophobia.
389
on a very valuable Arab, and the beast that had attacked us was a pony of the Maharajah's, lent to a native
officer
;
so,
dismounting,
I sent
my charger
to the rear,
where the head- quarter
staff
were grouped together.
Imparting the cause of disturbance to the commandant
and obtaining his permission to go ahead with a file of men, I opened up our communications. The road and the sides of the road were blocked by camp followers, the relatives of the Sepoys who were accompanying the regiment to wish them good-bye in fact, there were more followers than fighting men. We had gone but a short distance when there was another rush, and the pony knocked down an old woman and worried her, and then retreated, so I ordered bayonets to be
;
fixed, told the people to halt
and went ahead.
In five
minutes the brute was upon us again, but the men were steady, received it on their bayonets, and killed it.
We
was the identical pony bitten at Juggumpett. He, too, had become mad. What became
found that
it
of the old
woman
never heard, as
eft
the regiment
very shortly afterwards.
CHAPTER XV.
AN EXCITING DAY'S
SPORT.
THE great object of late years on the part of gunmakers has been to so construct the barrels of the ordinary fowling-piece that they shall throw the
of shots in a given space at a certain distance, and for this purpose there are chokes and
greatest
number
modified chokes ; that is, the muzzle is contracted and under the barrel at the breech end is engraved, " Not
for ball."
This is all very well where no dangerous animals

different in the wilds of
for sport in a country

exist,
but
it
is
very
India
or in Africa.
Our
forefathers killed as
as the best of
much game
modern
as neatly and as far To realise that, sportsmen.
one has only to read the diary of Colonel P. Hawker, lately published. Why we should require chokes I
don't know.
I
killed quite far
have ever found that a good cylinder enough for me, and it has the further
advantage that
it will carry ball, if required, fairly true to a distance close upon one hundred yards. The Paradox an invention of Colonel Fosberry,
manufactured by the Messrs. Holland, and also, I believe, by Westley Eichards, and somewhat imitated under different names by other makers and would-be
An
inventors
is
Exciting
Days
Sport.
391
a very useful weapon, but it is somewhat heavier than an ordinary gun and as long as a true cylinder fowling-piece, shoots dead up to fifty yards
with
ball,
and
fairly well
up
to one hundred, I
am
content.
both
There are two top actions, pre-eminent, good I allude to Purdey's and Westley
latter
Eichards', the
rifles
for preference. for
When
had
heavy shooting big game, Messrs. Westley Eichards were the only makers who would construct them on the top -snap action the others refused, as they said such an action was un;
constructed
safe
but as
used the
rifles
made by
that eminent
firm for years, firing heavy charges of six and seven drachms of black powder, and never found them fail,
I
can only conclude that they are not only
safe,
but
far the handiest. From the days of my griflinage have made a practice of carrying a few bullets in my pocket. In the old muzzle-loading days I had
by
I
bullets neatly sewn up in thin cloth and well greased. Now, of course I carry a few cartridges loaded with In a hot climate a light, ball in place of shot.
weapon is a desideratum. For stalking deer a man would be differently armed and antelope
serviceable
of course, but for ordinary sport in jungly places, you seldom see your game much further than fifty
yards,
and often much
closer.
Loqua Ghat, in Assam, opposite to Tezpore, is a well-known place for large and small game. My work, and if the truth be told inclination, often took me there, and many a tough encounter have I had
The smallthere with rhinoceros, buffalo, and tiger. was also there were the very good game shooting
;
black and kyah partridges, Florikan peacocks, jungle-
392
fowl,
and in the season, in one locality, thousands of but this I kept to myself; had it become snipe known, men from Tezpore would have been shootingover it constantly, and the sport would have been soon ruined. The ground consisted along the borders
of a bheel situated in a natural depression, about a mile from my bungalow, which I occasionally visited,
and many a day's sport have Now and then the long-bills.
in the plains.
I
I
had there amongst found a solitary or
double snipe there, a rare bird anywhere, especially

If I went very early, jungle-fowl would be about searching for ants' nests in the open, and amongst the trees peafowl were also to be found.
Some time
it
before
the
adventure
am
about to
relate occurred, there
had been some cultivation, but had been abandoned as deer and other ruminants took more than their fair share of it in fact, in one
;
year the cultivators applied for a remission of tax, as they had not saved a bushel of grain out of the fifty or sixty acres under plant. Being in the neighbourhood, I was asked by the Deputy Commissioner to I inspect the cultivated area and to report upon it.
found the grain trampled down, the paddy-fields a mass of pits caused by rhinoceros, elephants, buffaloes,
and deer. The marvel was, not that these animals had helped themselves to such a, to them, unwonted luxury, but that anybody should have chosen such a The taxes were remitted, and spot for cultivation. the experiment was given up. The land thus left fallow I found swarming with snipe, and taking a few men as beaters, I soon got my old Westley
Eichards gun, the first breech-loader I ever possessed, at work. I generally carried thirty cartridges in a
An
belt,
Exciting
Days
Sport.
393
and in a
side pocket seven (for I believe in

I
odd
might put up a numbers) ball-cartridges, thinking hog-deer or two, but never anticipating such an exciting day's sport as I was lucky enough to come
across.
My
shikarie
also
carried
lot
of
extra
cartridges in a waterproof bag.
The bheel was an extensive one, probably half a mile across and a mile and a half long. The south and east faces had been cultivated near the water's
and extending a couple of hundred yards, the plain was slightly inundated and covered with rushes and dhoop grass, beyond that commenced the whilom On the northern and western sides the paddy-fields. land ran in a ridge, that on the former face was close to the bheel, but on the latter the interval consisted of patches of long grass and impenetrable bushes of wild roses just the sort of place of which wading animals like the bubali and rhinoceros are fond. I commenced shooting on the southern face. It was
edge,
;
lie best during the heat of the were but seldom disturbed, and though they they day got up rather wild at first, they pitched again within
;
rather early, for snipe
my bag filled I was The walking rapidly. good scarcely ever sank over my ankles. It was ideal snipe ground. I had beaten over the greater part of the south and eastfifty
;
yards of where they rose.
So
faces
when a solitary snipe got up. These birds are double the size of the ordinary scolopax, and are barred on the breast and fly far more slowly, but in my
anxiety to kill I clean missed it, but marked it down near a rose-bush close to the water on the north face
;
leaving the
men behind
I
went alone
to
bag
this rare
specimen.
was getting within
shot, expecting it to
394
rise
any moment, when I heard a noise in a patch of It was some grass which attracted my attention. beast I at once withdrew the shot and inserted large and advanced ball-cartridges, cautiously, with both barrels at full cock and ready for any emergency. As I drew near the reeds a tiger bounded out on one side and was promptly met by a bull-buffalo, who charged full pelt from a clump of long grass the bovine was up to his knees almost in water, the feline on comparatively dry ground. The largest of the wild cats will seldom attack any of the bubali, and only if very hard pressed for food. But here deer abounded the whole plain was full of the swamp-deer, there were, besides, plenty of wild hog, and Cervus porcinus also were plentiful so no tiger need have been
;
; ;
life of sufficiently hungry any buffalo, far less that of a very large bull. But that he had
to attempt the
been stalking the bovine there was no doubt, and his opponent, from the prompt way he met him. must
have been aware of what was coming. At the last moment the tiger's heart failed him, and after bounding forward a few yards and uttering a deep growl
or two, finding
that
he
could not
intimidate
his
adversary, turned aside to avoid the collision. the impulse of the moment I let fly behind
On
his
shoulder with the right barrel, with the result that

the tiger rolled right over. I then rapidly fired at the buffalo and made a lucky fluke, for the bullet went
But on turncrashing into his ear and he fell dead the where to have towards been, lo tiger ought ing I took he was gone. Eeloading, up the trail, but the
! !
It was an beast had taken refuge in some tall grass. isolated patch and there was not a tree near. It would
An
my way
Exciting
Days
Sport.
395
have been the act of a fool or a
madman
to have forced
in, as I could not see a foot in front of me, and it is not child's play approaching a wounded tiger even in the open, almost certain death in heavy cover. So I beckoned to my shikarie, sent him back to the camp for an elephant, and told the other beaters to get up the few trees scattered beyond, and to watch
that nothing sneaked away without being marked. After kicking my heels about in no sweet temper for
a couple of hours, only an unreliable elephant with my howdah on it appeared. All the rest, the mahout
said,
had gone
for
their churah
(green food), not
thinking that they would be wanted. My rifles were in the ammunition in their the box in racks, ready
So I lost no time in mounting, and promising the driver the full reward if he kept his animal steady and enabled me to bag the quarry, told him to go straight into the patch of long grass into which I had traced the feline. The mahout was a Mussulman, and as such a fatalist he had seen me
front of the howdah.
;
kill
much game very few

;
of these
men
are cowards,
they have confidence in the shooting powers of I did not doubt the man, but the question was, How wôuld the
if
and
their master they are almost foolhardy.
elephant behave ? He was a big powerful tusker I had never had a howdah on him, as I prefer koonkies to shoot off, as they are smoother in their paces and
;
more accustomed to wild beasts, but he had often been out and at the death of all kinds of game. Like most others of his peers he was very uncertain at times he was bold as a lion, and at others would run from a hare; but on this occasion he went into the long The patch of jungle was not grass willingly enough.
;
396
through and through without discovering any signs of our quarry. Yet he must be somewhere near, for the markers declared he had not moved. We had avoided two or three heavy roseextensive,
it
and we beat
bushes because they were almost impenetrable and such a mass of thorns, that even the pachydermatous
hide of an elephant was not proof against them. So the mahout force his bidding way through every
a couple, not without many But when protestations on the part of our gee-gee. we came to the third, and the worst of the three, he
brake,
we got through
steadily refused to negotiate it, and when hard pressed became obstinate and commenced to shake himself,
and very nearly sent me, the howdah and the guns I was getting savage, and vented my rage on flying.
the mahout,
his
who brought
his ancus
down with
all
might on Behemoth's cranium with a whack which
could have been heard a quarter of a mile off, and ought to have given the recipient a headache for a
week.
Still
he would not go into the bush

all
but we
were saved
out.
The
by the tiger rushing elephant spun round to bolt, but the feline
further trouble
was too quick, for him and sprang on to his hind quarters and commenced to clamber up rather too
close to the
off at full
howdah
speed
to be pleasant. Our steed went how he did run to be sure ; I had no
idea he possessed such a nice turn of speed. I was rather upset by this sudden onslaught, and the pace we were going at. The tiger had his head close to
the back seat of the
howdah and intended going
for
me, but I am well accustomed to riding elephants, whether at a sedate step or at a gallop. (It is ambling of course, for no elephant can gallop, but they can go
An
at their
Exciting
Day s
Sport.
397
own pace nearly as fast as an ordinary horse It did not take me more than a can go his fastest.) couple of seconds to turn round over the back of the
barrel almost touching the tiger's cranium, I fired, and he fell off all in a heap.
;
howdah with the

I
was
rid of the
enemy
it is true,
but
my
steed was
and continued his mad career through jungle, bush, and long grass towards a quarter which I knew from previous experience to be a mass of nasty, narrow, deep ravines, masked by long grass which effectually concealed all signs of them and
uncontrollable,
;
once there, good-bye to one's belongings in this world, The for nothing could save us from a broken neck.
mahout did
his best
he drew back his ancus with
all
his might, the point penetrated almost to the bone, but it had not the least effect the poor frightened beast was beyond being restrained even by the acute
pain. to one
As
a last resort he
hung the driving hook on
of the rings through which the ropes pass which keep the howdah in its place, and putting his two hands over the elephant's eyes blindfolded him Just then there was a fearful stumble I thought our end had come, that we were falling either into a
!
nullah or over a prostrate giant forest tree, but the most unearthly cries convinced me that we had
toppled over a rhinoceros, and were in the midst of a The cowardly steed was transformed in a lot more.
moment
know which way to run, and me to empty my battery of and enabled pulled up four heavy rifles into as many surrounding rhino;
he did not
ceros,
all
inclined to resent our intrusion.
Two
for their visitations.
dropped dead, and the others went away the worse In fact, this immense tusker was
398

!
paralysed with funk

shooting,
I
wound up by
him stone dead), a Meat is always welcome in camp, so being mounted, I made a detour and killed three marsh- or swampdeer (two does and one fine stag), all so rolling in fat that when hit lumps of fat nearly as big as my fist came out of the bullet holes. Going homewards I
thought of the solitary snipe, walked it up on the elephant and bagged it. Thus ended an eventful day.
I came out snipea killing tiger (for we found rhinoceros. buffalo, and two
So.
though
CHAPTER
XVI.
THREE YEAES WITH MURDERERS ON A SOLITARY ISLAND.

I
WAS
directed to undertake the construction of a
lighthouse in the
was
of Bengal. The site chosen When I Table Island, north of the great Coco.
Bay
reached Haingyie, a large island at the entrance of the Bassem River, I found that the schooner which
should have been there to take
me on had gone on
and twenty-
two days
before, with a load
of bricks
four convicts.
Colonel A. F., the superintendent of lighthouses, had asked me to meet him on Table Island by a
certain day, of which only two days remained. I did These seas in the fine weather not know what to do.
smooth enough, but the currents are very strong. A lighter attached to the Alguada Reef Lighthouse, was available. I asked the commander if he would He demurred at first, as he said he had no take me. instruments to take the latitude and longitude (and I found afterwards that if he had had them, he did not know how to use them). I showed him a chart, and said the wind was fair. We had first the Preparis shoal to guide us, and on losing sight of that the Cocos would be visible, and I would take all
are
4OO
responsibilities
little,
on
my
my saying I he was afraid to accompany me, he assented, though with a very bad grace. We started with a good breeze and were off the shoal by daylight, but
alone
if
on
After hesitating a would take the lighter and go

shoulders.
the wind failed us. We both thought we should be to the west instead of to the east of the
there
Preparis,
and did
all
we
in
signally failed, currents were too strong for us ; and well, as we ascertained afterwards, that
in
as
the
could to get westward, but absence of winds the

it
was just as we had failed
our endeavour, as there was a barrier of rocks beyond which we should not have been able to
weather, and on which we would probably have been wrecked. About 10 A.M. the wind sprang again, and we went on merrily. We sighted Table Island
just as we lost all bearings of the reef and got to our destination by 9 P.M., where we found the
schooner at anchor.
was very hilly and densely covered and tree jungle. Its length and breadth, including Slipper Island, was all but a mile each way. There was nothing to shoot there, cocoa-nuts were few and far between and existed It was not an inviting only on the south-east face.
It
and explored water on it.
my
future abode.
Early next morning I landed, There was no fresh
with bamboo
place
to live
in
with
life
convicts
(all
murderers,
had escaped hanging by the skin of their But I am a teeth) for the space of three years. bit of a fatalist, and believe that sufficient for the
who
day
a
is
the
evil
thereof.
In the
to
afternoon the
arrived.
steamer
brief
with
the superintendent
I
After
all
interview,
was told
land
the
A
bricks
Desert Island.
I
401
and
to
do the best
could during the six
weeks before the breaking out of the monsoon, and then to go back to Haingyie and prepare maps, plans,
estimates, &c.,
&c.,
for submission
to the
supreme
government.
The steamer took the

for more.
and departed before dark. and sent back the schooner
lighter in tow I soon landed the bricks

I
was then
left
alone with twenty-four murderers and two Madras boys the convicts had each a dhaw, I had a gun and
;
no guard. I had no trouble with the convicts, all Burmese and Shans of the very Whilst they carried the bricks up worst character. the hillside, away from the sea spray, I surveyed the island, took cross sections, and fixed upon the highest spot, which I found was on the south face, for erecting the lighthouse. The schooner went backwards and forwards twice before there were indications that the rains were not far off, and on her last trip, I took my people with me and returned to
a revolver, but
I then took leave to Calcutta, submitted Haingyie. the plans, &c. and then went off for two months to
,
I returned, and Ootacamund and the west coast. this time I made a start from Moulmein, taking
hundred life convicts, half being Burmese, Shans, and Karens, and the other half
with
me
one
Madrassies.
applied for a military guard, but
it
was refused me, so I picked up nine men from the streets of Moulmein and enlisted them as burkandazies or policemen, and armed them with old
cutlasses.
I also
took twenty-five free labourers, as
bricklayers,
&c., and a quantity of material for sheds for ourselves. The police I found building as useless a guard, as the Burmese cared nothing for
D D
402

I
them, and
employed them as workmen. I had one European with me, a splendid specimen of a Scotchman, a master quarryman by trade. He could barely read or write, but was thoroughly master of his trade with a few blows of his hammer he would break a block of stone to the requisite size and shape, whereas our native stonecutters would take twenty hours to do the same. Moreover, he could carry and place in position a stone which four ordinary natives He was perfectly sober and to could not move. So I be depended upon to carry out his duties. with the Island him on Table convicts, and placed took up my own abode on the north end of the Great Coco Island, where there was a natural bay that served as harbour for a boat, and fresh water, which was wanting on the opposite Island. There had formerly been a settlement on the Great Coco, The Europeans and but it had totally failed. Eurasians with one exception died, and the sole When the survivor was only rescued in time.
;
they took these numerous pigs, both English and Chinese soon ran wild and were very numerous when I was
settlers
took
possession
of
this
isle,
They were then still parti-coloured, but very and very fierce, and as they lived almost large fallen cocoanuts the exclusively on they were As a place delicious eating, and as fat as butter. It is of residence the Great Coco is not half bad. and about miles two in breadth. about seven long, The shores to the north, east, and south are low,
there.
covered densely with cocoa palms to a depth of a The west face has a ridge quarter to a half mile.
running down from north to south, which
is
covered
The Great Coco
Island.
403
with trees, the branches of which all lean to the east, showing the force of the south-west monsoon. This island
a great rendezvous for the edible turtle, which throng to the west face, and would be doubtis
less as
numerous on the
east
and south
faces were
it
not for the iguana lizards, who dig up their nests and destroy hundreds of thousands of eggs. I used to turn a good many, made an artificial pond for them, and sent them on to Eangoon as opportunity afforded. There was no lack of fish. The Burmese killed as many as we could consume by using
torches at night.
eels,
and
crabs.
There were large crayfish, conger The islands were infested with the
deadly bungarus or banded snake, which was found under stones and rocks on the sea beach, and adders
inland.
There
were
few
curlew,
thick-kneed
very few snipe, plenty of teal in the plover, a few fresh water bheel, and thousands of imperial and
Nicobar pigeons.
When
they had
the last settler
left
there were a good
many
;
fowls and ducks left behind, but not one remained

all
been destroyed by the big lizards. The poultry I took over also suffered greatly from
The root of every to it not the little had oysters adhering mangrove things we are accustomed to, but fellows as large as an ordinary plate, and a couple of bivalves sufficed for a currie for two people. Sponges were washed ashore and real pearl oysters existed but nearly every daily
the ravages of these monitors.
; ;
oyster in the Bay of Bengal has a small pear] in it. I had fully a thousand, but they were all small and
all
opaque, and I either lost them, thinking them of no value, or they were stolen but I have since disD D 2
;
404

all
covered that
pearls
when
first
extracted are dull
and require polishing before they assume the appearance of the gem of commerce. That rare bird the
megapod
also
visited
the island,
crossing
over,
presume, from the Mcobars, where it is resident. The pigs were so numerous, that by erecting a screen
and spreading broken cocoa-nuts for them, they came and on eight different occasions I killed two These were killed and served out as food at a shot. For sport I used to roam the jungles, to the people. and killed a good many boars one with tushes nine and three-quarter inches long and some fine fat sows and sucklings, which are delicious eating. Altogether, whilst I lived on that island, existence was not so bad. I had to take or send breakers of water across daily, and used to go over myself nearly every day, as the work was then of the simplest, consisting of collecting materials and cutting stone, but the tide rip was very dangerous, and once I was carried down and took eight hours to get to my destination, which was barely So I built a house in three miles across in a bee-line. a grove of cocoa-nut palms on Table Island, on the south face, and leaving a tindal and a crew consisting of six free Madrassies and two of the best of the
in dozens,
Burmese convicts, together with a month's rations, two muskets, and some ammunition, on the Coco, I crossed over and took up my abode on the lesser
Isle
;
occasionally I used to go back to turn turtle
for the larder, my only companions I used to sleep out in the convicts. the being jungles oil a remote beach with them without fear, and they
and shoot game
never took advantage of

treated
them
fairly
defenceless position. I told them they could kill
my
me
Daily Life on Table Island.
405
any moment they choose, as they were all armed and I but seldom, and then only when out shooting, but that they would be no gainers, for there were many who would willingly take my place and treat them
far
worse than
did.
fed
them
liberally
each
man's rations, including even a little tobacco, were Each man had an allotted task, not too issued daily.
heavy and just sufficient to keep him in health, and directly that was completed he had the rest of the day to himself, and as there were no means of escape from Table Island, they wandered where they pleased, supplementing their rations by rats which they caught in traps, and by fish which they caught, sometimes in trawl-nets (of which I had taken a couple),
When the high tides but principally by torchlight. set in Slipper Island would be separated by a shallow strait in which thousands of mullets used to come.
I tried to
catch
them by stretching
a net across, but
fish, as soon as they discovered what it was, used to leap over it, and I took to shooting them flying
the
There were
many
varieties of fish of every kind,
and
most gorgeous. A common one, no use was the for food, sea porcupine, which inflates itself like a balloon one extraordinary fish we got, had three distant hooks in its tail The shoots of the bamboo, and a growth near the crown of a palm tree,
many
of these
commonly
first
called a
cabbage,
when cooked
are
not
only very good eating but nutritious.
During
my
season everything went perfectly smoothly. to know the men and the convicts became used got I scarcely had to strike a single man. The to us
;
We
Madrassies
races,
gave far more trouble than the other

latter were, to a
though the
man,
in for crimes of
406
violence, such as dacoity with manslaughter, murder, and the like but one or two, I may say more, of the men,
;
according to their ideas, had been unjustly punished. To send a man across the Kala Panie, one who is not
one of our subjects, to the Andamans for life because he has killed a man in a tribal feud, or to confine
another because he has killed the paramour of his
young wife, which is no offence according to their ideas and laws, they consider unjust. Look at the
man who stabbed the Earl of Mayo. He was an Afghan he had been a domestic servant of the Deputy Commissioner of Peshawar, had played with his children and bore the best of characters but because he had slain openly a foe, he was condemned for life to penal servitude, which was to him a thousand times worse than death. To escape that
case of the
;
;
existence he deprived the most popular Viceroy we have had in India of his life, not for revenge or
himself might be killed.
because he owed him any grudge, but simply that he Another, a strongly-built Burman a young man whom I trusted and who
was the
his
first
to rush to
afterwards mutinied
honour by killing wife. Does any one imagine that either he, or any one of his race, considered that a crime ? I for one think the man was perfectly justified. We had two or three Shan chiefs who had been concerned in dacoities awful villains no doubt, but none of these races can refrain from robbery by violence if they see their way to doing it it is done as much for a lark as for filthy lucre, and they
; ;
warn me when the convicts was a lifer he had avenged a man who had seduced his
;
consider the punishment of transportation not only
Punish a Shan Chieftain.

excessive but cruel.
407
As
the cane, but when I them see that I was not in play. Going up the hillside, I found one of these Shan chiefs sitting down
seldom used had occasion to do so, I let

I said before, I
smoking instead of carrying his allotted task of bricks, so I gave him a cut as I passed. He was up in a the dhaw from drew moment, behind, where he had it stuck, and would doubtless have cut me down in his passion had I given him time to do so. I was slightly I hit out straight from the shoulder, above him. him with all my might between the caught eyes, and
sent him rolling down the hill. I did not give him time to get back on his feet, but pinning him to the ground by a foot on the neck, which half-throttled
him,
laid
into
all
his
bare back
and
all
but bare
posterior with
my
I
might and gave him an unthen sent for the convict
merciful
thrashing.
blacksmith and put double irons on the Shan's legs, and gave him a double task a day to do, and he
became as meek as a lamb, and was released in a month but for all that, he was one of those who I had brought cats to keep escaped afterwards. down the rats, but they disappeared one by one, until there was but one left, and she was my sole hope, as she was expecting a litter ere long but a wretched Madrassie, a brute as fat as a pig, killed and ate her. I had always given out that any man caught killing a cat would get three dozen, and, as the culprit had been caught red-handed, I tied him up and with my own hand I gave him three dozen as hard as I could lay on, on his bare b t, and put him on half rations. We had no medicines, except such as I had myself procured, and no medical sub;
408
ordinate or appliances, so to my numerous avocations were added the doctoring and treating of some
one hundred and

season.
fifty
men.
A few
died each working-
very painful case. The man suffered from inflammation of the bladder and stoppage of urine had I had a bougie I might have saved
One was
him, but hot fomentations and even blistering failed to relieve him, and he died a lingering death. One
season
I
allowed
middle-aged
woman and
her
daughter to accompany us to set up a shop for the sale of petty articles to the convicts (who, in addition to their rations, were allowed a couple of annas a
some time all went well. One day the two women fell out, and the mother immediately swallowed a large piece of opium and died. This is
day), and for
not an unusual occurrence amongst Burmese. They often thus commit suicide on the slightest squabble.
As the schooner was going

girl
to
Moulmein,
it
sent the
back in her, as
did not think
right to keep
her
when
alone amongst so
many men.
had been expecting the plates for the iron tower. They were doomed to misfortune. Some had been lost in the Hooghly, the others were sent
We
me
in
Government
Scotchman,
whom
commanded by D., a knew well when he commanded

vessel,
In those days he had a fat wife, as Scotch as himself and very jealous of her husband, who was not an Adonis to look at.
a steamer on the Irrawadie.
when D.
board
latter's
She, poor woman, had been dead about a year arrived with his cargo, and he had on
as
passengers
K.
D.
Poor sister. and could do nothing but follow the spinster about.
and his wife and the was dreadfully smitten,
Difficulties in
I
Landing
the Plates.
409
had fathomed
pair
his
I
all
of shears,
the sea round and had erected and showed D. the exact spot
where
water.
boats
could
come,
but
only
at
high
warned him that if he attempted to land the heavy plates, some of them over a ton in weight, But his inamorata did his boats would be wrecked. not like the Cocos she hated the island, and the vessel worse, and D., to oblige her to get away, would work his boats at all hours. The consequence was that in He then tried to three days he had not a boat left. land the plates on a raft, but that turned a turtle and went adrift but I saved it, and some twenty plates which had sunk, at the neap tides and off D. went to Port Blair and reported that the site chosen by me was useless for landing purposes he got boats there, I had to but even then he managed to sink several. send my schooner, and she brought all that had been The skipper also fished up those in the sea, landed. and we landed all without losing a single boat. When on shore, these plates had to be dragged up a sheer cliff 110 feet high, but we got them all up without Had any fallen, they would have breaking one. been splintered to pieces, as they were only of
;
; ;
voyage, to my great annoyance, McG., the commander of the schooner, brought I knew over from Port Blair a European woman.
cast-iron.
last
In her
her
by
character ver}^ well
there had already been a
good deal of scandal about her. She was a woman under thirty, but, with the exception of being white, She walked quietly into my apartments and told me she had come to spend a month with me. I was very angry I am
I
could see no other attractions.
afraid I told her to go to the devil.
sent for the
4io

into
commander and walked

told him, as he
him handsomely, and

her,
had brought
until the arrival of the mail steamer, as I
he might keep her would have
none of
her.
She found her tongue, treated
me
to a
good deal of Billingsgate, and said I could not apI preciate a white woman when I got the chance.
cut her short, handed her over to the quarryman and a writer I then had, and saw no more of her, but
afterwards got several letters from her husband, accusing me of having been intimate with her, and wanting blackI
sent her back to the Andamans.
mail
but
had taken good care not to be
left
alone
with her for a minute, and I told him to go to a very hot place. She, in collusion with her husband,
had played these
tricks before in Port Blair,

;
and had
caused great mischief there but although not then thirty, I was an old bird, not to be caught with chaff, and I knew all about her long before she had the
cheek to pay
It
me
a visit.
The men had been left at the Andamans during each monsoon and were always
was
my
third season.
(apparently) glad to get back to the Cocos, for they were very differently treated by me there to what
they had been by the warders at the convict establishment. I had dug numerous wells on Table Island,
so I got across breakers of water. To fetch these up daily twenty-five the hill, Keid used to march down a party of twentyfive Burmese and Shans and twenty-five Madrassies, varying the party each day, and only telling them
;
but the water was not drinkable
off at
the last moment.
One day the boat was

to unload her the
later
than usual.
We
had
minute she
arrived and to put in the empties, to enable her to
Escape of Convicts.
41
return to the Great Coco without delay. Eeid told off the men, directed them to go on, and he would
moment. The Burmese took the bamboos and ran down the hill. The Madrassies were following with the empties, and Keid leisurely bringing up I was bathing the rear, never suspecting an emeute. in my own hut. The Shans and Burmese, directly they got near, gave a haroosh and rushed at the Lascars,
follow in a
whp, instead of pushing off into deep water, jumped overboard The two Burmese who remained tried no
!
doubt to push off, but one man got a bad cut over the head the other, seeing his comrade's fate, cast his lot
;
in with the mutineers.
They
seized the boat,
jumped
calling out that they were going round to kill me, off they went. The wounded Burman ran over to me, warning me to arm, which I very
into her,
and
quickly did. a revolver.

dazies, to
had four double rifles, a smooth-bore, and So giving some of these to the burkancarry, and armed with one, I ran down to the
I
beach, hoping to see the runaways, for I never believed they would have the temerity to attack me
;
but they crossed over direct, seized the month's rations which had been sent there but the day before,
and taking the two muskets and cartridges, gallantly put to sea and steered for the Tenasserim coast. I was in a precious predicament. The schooner was away. I had no other boat. There was no water fit to drink
on Table Island. Now the distance to the mainland was considerable and the boat was not over
and besides twenty-five breakers of water it had a month's rations for seven men and twenty-six adults. Now Englishmen under similar circumstances would have been useless they could not have
large,
;
41

;
steered their course
but every Burman knows enough
of the stars to guide himself by them at night, and these men made the coast in seven days, and scattered.
The schooner arrived four days
after the
I sent her off, after escape of the convicts. procuring sufficient water to last me for a week, to Rangoon,
and
0.
at the
same time
wrote
off to
Calcutta for a
condensing machine.
,
I reported what I had done to the chief engineer about the most sensible fellow I ever served under, and who never wrote a letter or
gave the least trouble as long as he saw a man was not only capable of doing his work but did it. The amount was beyond my own sanctioning, but after
our late experience he agreed with me that it would not do to trust to a boat to get water from the larger
island.
Most of these escaped convicts were captured and sent back to me. But three of the Shan and Karen chiefs got away for a time, and two were never
for.
accounted
states.
I believe
they got back to their own
Karen.
The man I particularly allude For his apprehension a reward
dead or alive. to seize him, for he went about pretty openly, but he had invariably proved too much for them, had cut them down and escaped but for some reason or another he would not leave that locality, though he
offered,
;
was
was a of Es. 200 Sundry peelers had tried

to
might have got back to Karennee easily. But one day two Christian Karens out hunting with some twenty savage dogs came across him, and,
solicitous of gaining the reward, called upon him to He laughed at them and retreated to a surrender.
bamboo clump,
cut
down
a male reed, pointed one
end, and then holding
his dalweel or fighting
sword
The Death of a Valiant Rascal.
413
in his right hand and the spear in the other, cried " out, Try and take me." The two men, knowing the
convict's desperate character, consulted together. One ran off to the village for help, whilst the other
watched the
hounds.
;
man and
surrounded him with the
attempted to move the dogs flew at him and they are a cross between gray and ordinary hounds, they are very powerful and fed on raw meat,
If he
So the poor wretch could very savage. nor retreat. The second man soon reneither attack turned with several villagers, one armed with a flint
are
also
musket and the other with a cross-bow.
The former, dacoit the to himself give calling upon up, cocked his gun, but that individual only laughed, and
exposing his chest and arms, and calling their attention to various wart-like excrescences,
under which
bits of gold and silver had been inserted and the skin " allowed to heal over, called out, Look at me don't " am I that invulnerable ? see The man with the you
;
musket essayed three times to fire, and each time the weapon missed fire. The outlaw was exultant, saying, " " The cross-bowman then Did I not tell you so ? " You may be invulnerfitted an arrow, and saying, able as far as a gun is concerned, but I'll see what I The arrow sped true, and penecan do," let fly.
trated the man's broad chest, but with a smile he
plucked
only hurt
it
out,
and showing
span
!
it
said,
"Why
it
has
will
gone in
Do you
think
that
But inward bleeding had set in, for in a few seconds he fell down, and the assailants rushed on and secured him, but he expired Thus died a valiant before they got to the village.
?
me
"
villain.
414
We
were generally taken
off
the island
by the 24th
May at the latest, for during the monsoon it is almost impossible either to land on these islets or to get off
them.
in
had imported 400 gallon zinc and iron tanks, which I stored all our grain, and was as careful
I
it
with
as possible, but during
my
last season there
had grain to last us till we were nearly starving. the 30th May. We should have been relieved not later than Her Majesty's natal day, but it came and
We
went and not a vestige of the steamer. The schooner was laid up in Eangoon, and though I knew the steamer had gone to Calcutta, I fully expected her
back, especially as there were every indications of the So getting anxious, I put the rains setting in early.
men on
half-rations.
don't think the

for
Burmese and
their cognate races
minded much,
they redoubled
their exertions, caught plenty of fish, &c., dug up wild yams, and were in no way downcast ; but the Madrassies cried all
to starve.
day, and swore they had been sent there I had Marryat's Vessels passed us daily.
universal code and all the requisite flags. I hung up " are starving," and also fired guns and rockets and burnt blue lights but the ships, although they
We
see the people on passed quite closely, board examining our signals through telescopes, and knew that we were building a lighthouse for the use of all the navies of the world, took no notice of us or
and we could
Most of these our petition, but went on their way. ships were American, sailing under the German or Hamburg flag, for the Alabama had cleared the seas
of northern vessels.
Neither did they help us, nor
did they report our signals on arrival at Eangoon and At last, Bassein, and there we were left to our fate.
On
when
I
the
Verge of Starvation.
415
had but three days' half-rations left, a country I had vessel laden with rice did pull up. fortunately sufficient and provisions to last bought enough money, us a month. Towards the end of June the steamer did arrive. She had to lie fully three or four miles we were on the south-west. So off on the east face I had to transport all the convicts, free workmen, a lot of sick, all appliances, extra stores, &c. round to the only place where the boats could come. This was no easy task, for the beach was a mass of rocks and the sea beating over it, and there was not a vestige of There were only two boats, and a road anywhere. make two trips during the day, and they could only then were dangerously crowded. It poured from dayWe were soaking wet. We lit huge light to dark. fires and took off and dried our garments one by one, but they were soon saturated again. We had nothing to eat all the things were packed away but about
;
,
3 P.M., being famished, I broke open two or three boxes and managed to find one of Crosse and Blackwell's
this
first
plum -puddings and some pints of beer and on Reid, the third mate of the vessel, and I made our
;
meal.
stores
Just at dark
got the last of the people
on a boat, most inconveniently crowded, considering the heavy seas we had to encounter to get to the steamer, which was pitching and rolling about,
and
We threatening to part with her cable every moment. were all drenched of course, but for that we did not
care
much, but what I regretted most was that some half a dozen of the rats of the island, which I had in
cages, intending to send them to Mr. Blyth, the curator of the Calcutta Museum, were all drowned.
I let
loose
on the Great Coco, for the use of future
416
and a couple of kids. I visited the Little Coco on one occasion. It was a miniature Great Coco. I shot a couple of pigs there and some Nicobar pigeons, and saw several puff adders.
visitors, a nannie-goat, a he-goat,
I sent over twenty thousand youngcocoa-nut trees to the Andamans to be sprouting planted, and they throve for awhile, but some years afterwards a fearful storm destroyed the greater part
At times
When I left the Island in June, 1866, the of them. whole of the works, with the exception of hoisting the lantern, had been completed, and I was to return
and in the meanwhile I applied to Sir A. Phayre for two months' privilege So leave, and three months' general in anticipation. I got on to a P. and 0. steamer and revisited England In the meanwhile the after eighteen years' absence. rules had been altered and no general leave could be taken in extension of privilege, so when my two months were up, the Government telegraphed all The climate over India for me, to go to Assam. there was so bad and the discomforts so great that they could not get any of the numerous executive officers sent there to carry on public works to remain, so as I had served willingly for over thirteen years in Burma, and three in the Bay of Bengal, they transin to finish
it,
November
that tea-growing province. On my return I just missed the direct steamer from Madras
ferred
to
to
me
Eangoon, so had to go on
to Calcutta.
There
upon T., the garrison engineer, who had been of mine in Burma, and the first thing he said " was, Why you are the very man we want Here is
called
chum
a telegram from W., the under secretary to GovernCan you tell us where that fellow P. is ? We ment
<
Removed
want him
J
to
Assam.
417
of him anyand was directed to reported myself, proceed to Gowhatty and take charge of the Lower Assam division. I protested at being removed from Burma, and both the chief commissioner and chief engineer also wrote, saying that I was the oldest executive officer in the province, and my services were required to complete the lighthouse on the construction The reply, of which I had been so long employed. to my amazement, was that I had volunteered for service in that remote country, and I wrote back indignantly denying having done so, and requesting But I permission to return to my legitimate work. was told I was wanted more in Assam, than on the lighthouse, which required very little doing to complete it, and reminding me that ten years before, during a temporary visit to Calcutta, I had said to Sir K. S., the secretary to Government in the D. P. W., " If ever you want an officer for Assam, remember me." Applicants for service there must have been very few and far between for a memo, of my wishes to be made and entered in the books of that department, and made use of long after I had forgotten the I must own, fond of sport as I am and was, event. I regretted leaving Burma, where I had spent the Game I knew was abundant best years of my life. in the province I had been transferred to, but the people and country were new and unknown; the language was also quite new, being a mixture of Bengali and Assamese. Everything I possessed guns, rifles, servants were all in Kangoon, and when I reached Gowhatty there was not a house to go into, and I should have fared badly had not the
for
Assam and cannot hear
where.'
So
E E
418
personal
his at

assistant to the
disposal.
commissioner placed half
my
B.
,
the chief engineer, I liked very much. He took a sensible view of things, and agreed with me that nothing could be done to open out the country
De
But just then there was scarcely one of these useful animals to be got. The Bhootan war had expended not only all the greater part of the Government animals, but most of those requisitioned from the zemindars had died. The commissariat promised us four elephants. When they came, De B. was absent. I saw at once
without elephants.
that the beasts were useless, dying in fact. Two were in an advanced state of zurbad, and the
other two showed incipient signs of it. It is a very Once an elephant catching disease, a form of dropsy. has had it, even if he recovers, he is valueless, as he is
sure to be attacked with
it
it
again and
die.
So
took
upon myself to send the two first back at once and Now De B., a very reported the state of the others.
clever engineer, knew no more about elephants than he knew of the inhabitants of Jupiter. I had had
them under me
for thirteen years,
and was
fairly
up
in all their ailments.
animals were to us,

obtain, he
Knowing how essential these and how difficult they were to
but
begged me not to return the other two, urged that our department would only be
debited with their cost, as I did not think they could survive a fortnight, and would not be fit for work, if
they recovered, for months. time to consider. He then

wrote to
He
said he
left for
must take Tezpore, and

knowledge
me
thence that, trusting to

if I
my
of the creatures,
was
still
of opinion that they
Difficulty
of Procuring Elephants.
I
419
got his
were useless, I could return them, but before letter both had succumbed.
He
two
wrote to the secretary to the Government of
Bengal, for permission to buy four for my division and but the sum sanctioned for each of the others
;
was altogether inadequate.
A few years back, a

for
good
400.
howdah elephant could be purchased
Ks.
Small baggage ones were of very little value, and were often given away by the rich zemindars. But the Bhootan war had changed all that the road from
;
opposite Gowhatty Rungeah and beyond to the foot of Dewangiri was almost impassable, owing to the dreadful effluvia from the dead beasts, principally The price had risen enorelephants, lying about. As De B. could do nothing with the mously. Government, I asked permission to try, and what with letters and telegrams I worried the chief
to
engineer, Bengal, to such an extent, that he at last " Purchase what you want at the telegraphed back,
prices quoted," which was an upset I lost no time in acting, for each.
of Rs.
fear
2,000
the per-
mission might be withdrawn. I bought from B., a tea-planter, a splendid koonkie for Rs. 2,500, paying the excess myself. I bought two others from
T., a tea-planter, for Rs. 4,000,
giving Rs. 2,500 for
one and Rs. 1,500 for the other, which had been cut by a rhinoceros, and though good for baggage was I picked up another for Rs. 1,700. useless for sport. She was very good also for baggage, but a great coward, so I lent her to the survey department in exchange for Luchmie, a very fast staunch koonkie. Being thus well set up, I soon explored the whole country, and as the jungles swarmed with game, I
420
combined work and sport. I may here say that I worked these four elephants and two of my own for seven years and did not lose one. My successor, no of the acting comsportsman, fearing the displeasure missioner, who, having quarreled with me, had tried
to prevent
my
using these beasts as heretofore, laid
them
up, using
them only now and
then.
country had then been thoroughly opened out, there was not then the same need for those useful
all
The and
beasts as in former days. They soon sickened, and were dead within a year or fifteen months after
my
departure.
well, I
saw
to their welfare.
before
me
I
daily,
worked these animals I had had them fed and took care to have the best of
Although
I
all
mahouts.
As
divided
Government rewards between
them, they were very contented. After my departure, finding this portion of their income cease, they left
the Government service and took employment with
planters and others, who were fond of sport and treated them liberally. The elephants were handed
and they
over to inefficient men, no care was taken of them, all died as stated.
The "Dangers and Incidents of Foreign Sport" herein detailed have been taken from diaries carefully kept for many years past. Although written in the first person singular, a few of the tales are
not the author's, but were related by men in whose veracity every reliance could be placed. Imperfect indeed as they must be, \vhen the as they may be narrator is not a practised writer it is hoped they " will help to pass a few leisure hours.
Sporting
The End.
trophies
are
42
to
of
no
value
save
the
winner.
can paint the feelings that he enjoys, however, as he sits and contemplates a faded skin, or a pair of branching antlers, or the head of one
of
Who
much
the fercB naturae, which have been won after toil and discomfort and considerable danger ?
The true sportsman's memory has drunk so deeply of the details, stirring to itself, but valueless to others, that the mere look of the prize suffices to recall the
scene." Thus, kind reader, an old shikarrie ponders over the past, and loves to recall the scenes in which he once took a part, and endeavours to portray them
for the benefit of others.
May
they be favourably
received
INDEX.
Bed, a jungle, 91 Beg, Mogul, the shikarie, 4 Belgian guns, 371 Bida, 167 stringent laws, 170 Biles seized by tiger, 18 " Bison Hill," 141
;
AFRICA, East, 302 Aleppo, 342
West, 378
Ammunition runs short, 26 Ansaries in Syria, the, Antelope, 276, 306 Antioch, 342 Apparowpett, 235 Apricots in Pico, 372 Arab hospitality, 350 Armoor, 233 Arnachillum of Salem, spear maker, 191 Assam, tiger shooting in, 41-46 ; rhinthe natives, 81 65-81 oceros, buffalo, 125 gaur and gayal, 140 marsh deer, 253 pig bears, 221 spearing animals out sticking, 275 of boats, 293 ; netting game, 298 Loqua Ghat, 391 fishing, 391 Axle tree, a broken, 17 Azores, the, 368-377
; ;
;
Bison, Indian, sec Gaur Bitterns, 348 Black leopards, 279, 289
"Blue Ruin," 379

Bornu, 174
et seq.
Blyth, the late Mr., 140

the, 314 Breeding elephants, 123 Budrodeen, 174-178 Buffalo ; fight with rhinoceros, 75 Indian, 125 ; hate Europeans, 126 immense horns, 127 charging, 128 pursues an elephant, 129 "a rogue,' 130 spearing, 133, 297 African, 164-178 Burmese, 265 netting, 301 wounded, 327 West African, 378
Bouquet d'Afrique,
Bukh,
Peer, 2 Bullets for pachyderms, 64
BALCONDA, 234
Baldwin, Capt., attacked by a buffalo, 125 Bamboo in flower, 159 Banlong, 257 Banyan tree, a monster, 291 Bareback elephant riding, 112 Earth, Dr., 173 Bathing, girls attacked by tiger while, 56 Baths, Turkish, 352 Bears, charges by, 28 species of, 68 in Burma, 220 ; spearing, 223, 237, 238 in a ruined fort, 236 Beaters, Burmese, 153
;
;
Bunbury, Major, 67 Burgaon, 235 Burhampooter Churs, pigsticking in the, 209-219 Burma, sport in, 29 et seq., 62-63 rhinoceros, 65 elephant, 89-100 ; elephant Keddahs, 123 ; buffalo, 125 ; gaur, 137, 140; tsine, 145; sport, 149-164 ; beaters, 153 ; bears, 221 ; sambur, 243 ; thamin, 256 ; mixed a sport, 257-274 ; shikaries, 261 fire, 270-273 ; pigsticking, 275 Burmese girls attacked by tiger, 56 Burnt, escape being, 272 Burpettah, 293 Burrakoompty, 236 Bustard, the lesser, 303; the great,
; ;
349
Buttress trees, 92
424
Index.
CACHARIES,
the,
81-83
in India, 202 Cannibals, 170, 171 Cannon, a small, 93 Carriers, African, 166 Cats as food, 407 Cattle disease in Assam, 140 Chalmers, Dr., tossed by a buffalo,
Camp
life
FATIGUE of noosing elephants, 111, 117 Fayal, 369 et seq. Fever, 170
20 between between a ; between two sambur, 246-248 between gorilla and man, 384 Fire, a inaidau on, 270 Fish, shooting, 405 Fishing, Mahseer, 355-367 Flamingo, 346 Florikan, 337
tigers,
;
Fight between two
python and
tiger,
50
rhinoceros and a buffalo, 75

;
"
133
China
Choke
Chiokwaoga," 882
Poonjie, 357, 362
bores, 390
Chitas as hunting leopards, 276, 280

Cobra, 335 Cock, Major, 67, 70
Foot, tiger shooting on, 34-39
Fox hunting compared with pig

ing, 178
stick-
Coco Island, 400

Condapilly, 2
;
pigsticking, 186
Francolins, 305, 308
Congo, the, 164 et seq. Convicts, Burmese, 401-412 Cookson, Col., 74 Corumbirs, the, 47 Cossyah, 34 boats, 359 Cotton soil, 197 Crocodiles on the Congo, 166 a boar, 217 Crowther, Bishop, 172
;
G G ARROW
Gaur,
;
snaps up
DANCING dervishes, 353

Dancing
girls, 82,
188
Deer, spotted, 203, 276 Dervishes, dancing, 353 Diseases of elephants, 102, 418
Doodgam, 234
Ducks, pintailed, 337 Durrung river, the, 357
E
EBRAMPATAM, 10
Elands, 316 Elephants, tiger shooting off, 39-46 rhinoceros shooting off, 65, 72, 73 ; habits of, 87, 103 ; height, 89 ; shooting in Burma, 90-100 ; must, 98, 124 ; care of, 101 ; purchase of, 104 102 ; food and howdahs, 108 ; mucknahs, 109 ; varieties, vulnerable spots, 110 ; elephant shooting off, 111 noosing, 111-120 ;
; ; ;
HILLS, the, 120 Indian Bison, 135, 136 Burmese variety, 137 apt to stray, tit 138 bits, 139 up the Godavery, 141 a solitary bull, 142 kills the in Burma, 159143 woodcutter, 163, 266-269 Gayal, 144 hybrids, 145 Ghoorkhas, 34-39 Ghur-Chunda, bear spearing at, 236242 Giants, traces of, 351 Giraffe, 326 Girl carried off by tiger, 30 Girls of Lakoja, the, 173 Girls, dancing, 82 Girls, Burmese, 56 Gnapee, or Burmese stinking fish, 151 Godavery Hills, 141, 166, 175, 245 Golden Plover, 341 Gooseberry, Cape, 36 Gorilla and man, fight between, 384 Gowhatty, 417 Guinea fowl, 175 in the Gunpowder in Syria, 344 Azores, 375
or
;
Keddahs, 120-129
pitfalls,
122
Escapes, narrow, 272, 331, 387
fright, 24 Hamilton, General Douglas, 248 Hare, the "hispid," 275 Hartebeest, 314 Hazoo, the women of, 83
HAIR blanched by
41,
Index.
Hill, Chas., 261
425
Hippopotamus, 318, 323-326 Hog, the pigmy, 275 Hogdeer, 256
Lost in the jungle, 236 Lovell, Dr., 21 Luck in shooting, 69
Hog
hunting,
see
pig sticking
;
Hood, Captain, 69
Horns, rhinoceros, 65 prized by the natives, 67, 70 an injured base, 80 buffalo, 126-128 Houssas, recruiting, 169-171 Howdahs, 104-107 Hurroolah, 223 Hydrophobia, an escape from, 387
; ;
M
MACHANS,
19,
tiger
shooting
off,
1-4.
49
McMaster,
quot., 87 Madrassies as servants, 264 Mahouts, 108
IGUANA
lizards,
403
Inundations, tiger shooting during, 1, 83 " Israel, The city of the Sons of," 351
JACKALS, 275 Jackson, Captain, 43rd regiment, 73 Jamrach, 70

Jarain, 356
Jerdon the naturalist, 68 Johnson, Archdeacon, 172 Jowai, 356 Juggumpett, 387 Jung, Sir Salar, 333
fishing, 355-367 Manass, fishing on the, 356, 366 Maneaters, 32, 48-52, 60, 61, 281 Marketing in Africa, 168 Marsh deer, 253, 294 Mayo, the murderer of Lord, 406 Medical board, a, 85 Mendoon, 89 Milk, rhinoceros, 80 Mixed bag in S. India, a, 333-341 Mong-Oo, Burmese shikari, 29 et seq. Moonlight encounter, a, 238 Moosa river, the, 333 Mosquitoes, 54, 103, 167, 203 Mouse deer, 275 Mucknahs, 109 Mulkapore, 221 Mullet shooting, 405 Muntjac, 266 Murral fishing, 355 Must elephants, 98, 124 Mutinous nigger, a, 311 Myetchin, 29 Myetquin, 257
Mahseer
KAMYKIAH, dancing
girls at,
82
N
place, a, 36 Nautch, see dancing girls Neermul, 234, 236 Neild's book on Syria, 342 Neilgherry ibex, the, 249 Netting game, 298 Nigger, a mutinous, 311
Karens, the, 30 Keddahs, elephant, 120 Koonkies, 101 equipment Koorie, the, 37
;
NASTY
of,
112
Kruboys, 378
Nightingale, Colonel, 133, 223, 367
LAK.OJA on the Niger, 172 Laloux and Dresse, gunmakers, 371 Lutaquie, 343 Laws of Bida, the, 170 Leopard spearing, 208 Lepangyoung, 150 Letchmapooram, 228 Liege, guns made in, 371 Lions, 318-320 Loqua-Ghat, 254 391
Nirmul Forest, the, 281-292 Nungied Rajah, the, 186

Nurting, 356 Nuttull, Mr., 120
" OLD FOREST E ANGER,"

Oysters, 403
the,
298
F F
426
Index.
Rock snake, 50, 257, see python Rogue buffalo, a, 130
PALMYKAHlLL, 234 Panthers, 234, 278-292 Paradox gum, 390 Pearls, 403 Peecheemootoo steals my first tiger, 8 Pheasant, the water, 340 Pico, the peak of, 374 Pig, wild, 263, 402, 404 Pigsticking, 179 first experience, 180 Rajahmundry, 181 a big boar, 182 by the river, 183 in the river, 184 four boars, 185 a nasty cropper, 185 hog shooting, 186 a good day, 188 the chaser chased, 189 hog a party, 192 ; too fresh spears, 191 a horse, 193 through the heart, 194 a monster porcupine, 195 a welcome siesta, 196 the best sport in the world, 198 ; a horse killed, 199, 206 game to the end, 200 camp life, 202 a disagreeable boar, a in the 206 sorry plight, 207 a Burhampooter Churs, 209-219 sow in her lair, 216 boar seized by crocodile, 217 ; in Burma, 275 Pitfalls, catching elephants in, 122 Poisoned arrows, 315, 330 Poiumpilly, 223 Porcupine, 302 ; sea, 405 Prendergast, Tom, 13, 180, 186, 209 Purkeer, 230, 234
; ;
;
Rutfs, 348
SAMBUK,
54, 243 246 Samulcottah, 13
a fight between two,
Sand grouse,
; ;
335, 339 Sanderson, Mr., 120, 140 Sappers and Miners, the, 86 Scott, Douglas, 223
Pyoung, see Gaur Python, 50 tiger killed by, 51 specimen, 52

;
fine
Scrow deer, 275 Sea fishing in the Azores, 372 Sea porcupine, 405 Secunderabad, 333 Seonee, 235 Shan dacoits, 406, 407 Sheep dressed as men, 235 Shikaries, Burmese, 150-164, 261 Shillong, 279 Shoay-Boh, Burmese shikari, 150-164 Shoaydeik, 54 Siam, elephant breeding in, 122 Simson, Mr., 133 Singie. 236 Snipe shooting, 336, 339, 347, 393 South India, 333-341 fishing, 355 Spearing bears, 223, 237-240 Spearing animals out of boats, 293 Spears for pigsticking, 191, 210 Spotted deer, 276 Syria, sport in, 342-354
;
Q
TABLE ISLAND LIGHT-HOUSE, 399
QUAIL, 335
Takin, 275
Teal, 339, 340 Teelahs, 91 Terai, rhinoceros in the/ 65
R
RAGAPORE, rendezvous at, 13 Rajahmundry, 13 pigsticking at,
;
Thamin
180,
(cervasfrontalis), 256
for,
a,
;
181
Thayetmys, 89 Theft, punishment Thorn, impaled by
170 329
; ;
Ramasawmy, 16;
appears, 21 his wife, 23
; ;
gets scared, 18 ; discomes to life again, 22 hair blanched by fright,
Tiger shooting, 1 my first tiger, 5 stolen, 9 ; a fine tiger, 13 ; a fight, 20 an accident, 21 ; Burma, 32 et seq.
24
Reid, Gen. Sir Chas., 68-70 two-horned, 69 Rhinoceros, 64-67 calf, 70, 81; Burpettah, 71-73; fight with a buffalo, 75 asleep, 76
; ;
;
up
30
;
a tree, 27
girl seized
by
tiger,
pandemonium, 78 milk, 80 ing, 218, 295 shooting, 397 Rifle, a monster, 93

;
;
spear-
shooting on foot, 34-39 ; a nasty place, 36 ; cub killed by Goorkas, 39 ; shooting off elephants, 39-46 a tiger's larder, 41 ; amaneater, 48-51; girls attacked while bathing, 56-60 tracking a wounded tiger, 155 pigin sticking stopped by a tiger, 215
; ; ;
;
Index.
a tigress, 234, 235 spearing, 296 netting 301 Tongho, 53, 149, 274 Tortakoonta, 224, 229 Tracking a wounded tiger, 155
427
camp,
26;
Vizianagram, 387 Vultures, 321
W
WATER-PHEASANT, 340 West Africa, 378
176 Trooper's Rock, 232 Trophies lost, 248 Tseben, 150, 151 Tsine shooting, 145-149 Tuctoo in Assam, 68 Tunny fishing, 373 Turtles in the Azores, 373 on Great Coco Island, 403
Tree,
up
a,
Women at Huzoo, the, 83 Woodcock, 344, 347, 372 Woodcutters killed by wild animals.
48, 143
Wounded
panther,
stag, 254
tiger, 279,
395
279
236'
lion,
318
buffalo,
Wurhona,
Wynaud
UMSULDOVY, the plains Unicorn, the, 174
of,
Forest, the, 47
196
YONZALEEN, maneaters Yomahs, surveying in
in,
52
VALIANT VILLAIN,
"Verderer," 281
phant shooting, 98
a,
413
the, 29 ; eletsine shooting,
146
THE END
RICHARD CLAY AND SONS, LIMITED. LONDON AND BfNGAV.
HENRIETTA STREET, COISENT GARDEN, W.C.

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CsJ

FOREIGN SPORT AND TRAVEL

CHAPMAN & HALL,

RICHARD CLAY AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BUNGAY.

work have been

Very many men

hunter who has not acquired the

only learnt after years of practice.

in the back seat of his father's

the ferce naturce should be followed up to the

end with safety to himself and attendants.

lucky in being sent to a

province teeming with

twentyage, which had never been hunted

the most of his

not only instruct the

in the pages of the Field,

have appeared and Water, and

Shooting Times, and are reproduced with the kind

INDIAN BUFFALO SHOOTING

A MIXED BAG IN SOUTHERN INDIA

A WEST AFRICAN EPISODE

AN EXCITING DAY'S SPORT

THREE YEARS WITH MURDERERS ON A SOLITARY ISLAND 399

THE NOOSE OVER

OUR SHIKARIES WERE UNEXPECTEDLY CHARGED BY AN ELEPHANT "

HAD NOT TIME TO

ON THE BANKS OF WHICH WAS AN ENORMOUS CROCODILE "

SPEARING BEARS IN THE DECKHAN

CAME UPON FOUR LEOPARDS WATCHING A HERD OF HARTEBEESTS

INCIDENTS OF FOREIGN SPORT AND TRAVEL

any form, by day off

procurable and the nature of the country prohibitive

Foreign Field Sport.

and an army of beaters

required to drive the

and scarcely worth the cost. man is posted on a tree, a

Very often when a tiger passes him within

here briefly relate incidents of the various

have had a share.

entered the service, a detachment at

good native Muster over,

bungalow was situated at

given a great deal of trouble to

miles, without encountering

taken at haphazard out of the flock twelve

Incidents of Foreign Field Sport.

when one comes, shooting by moonlight

so uncertain, that oftener than not,

animal has been eaten."

up and never got a shot

It is a long trudge to the top

am very tired, for I have been riding since

daybreak, and don't care to go so far for nothing."

But gurreeh pumvah"

us long to get there

commenced the ascent

best of times, but particularly so then, as

The fence thrown up was about three

Mogul Beg was