FM Transmitter
FM Transmitter
FM Transmitter
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MUHAMMAD MUJTABA (2010-EE-O89) HASHIM ALI (2010-EE-115) MUHAMMAD BILAL (2010-EE-070) FARHAN (2010-EE-107) MOIZ ASIF (2010-EE-093)
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FM TRANSMITTOR
INTRODUCTION:
It is designed to use an input from another sound source (such as a guitar or microphone), and transmits on the commercial FM band - it is actually quite powerful, so make sure that you don't use it to transmit anything sensitive - it could easily be picked up from several hundred metres away.The FM band is 88 to 108MHz, and although it is getting fairly crowded nearly everywhere. The FM transmitter plugs into the audio output of audio devices and converts the audio output into an FM radio signal, which can then be picked up by appliances such as car or portable radios. Most devices on the market typically have a short range of up to 100 feet (30 metres) with any average radio (up to about 300 feet (100 metres) with a very good radio under perfect conditions) this range can also be enhanced if operated in fixed locations of good high elevation, such as a multi-story apartment or tall building and can broadcast on any FM frequency from 87.5 to 108.0 MHz in most of the world. FM transmitters are usually battery driven, but some use the cigarette lighter socket in cars (and sometimes outside of vehicular use), or draw their power from a mains powered wall socket or the device itself. They are typically used with portable audio devices such as MP3 players, as well as hi-fi systems, message systems, etc.. They are also used to broadcast other outputs (such as that from a computersound card) throughout a home or other building.
LIMITATIONS:
The relatively low power output of FM transmitters sometimes makes it unsuitable for use in some large urban areas because of the number of other radio signals. This is compounded by the fact that strong FM signals can bleed over into neighboring frequencies making the frequencies unusable with the transmitter. Removing a car's radio antenna has been found to significantly improve transmitter reception.
TECHNICAL DATA:
Supply voltage : 1.1 - 3 Volts Power consumption : 1.8 mA at 1.5 Volts Range : 30 meters max. at 1.5 Volts
DESCRIPTION:
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Here's a tiny one transistor spy FM transmitter bug that operates from a single 1.5V AA battery. Main advantage of this circuit is that power supply is a 1.5 Volts cell (any size) which makes it possible to fix PCB and the battery into very tight places. Transmitter even runs with standard NiCd rechargeable cells, for example a 750mAh AA size battery runs it about 500 hours (while it draws 1.4mA at 1.24V) which equals to 20 days. When done right, they provide very clear wireless sound transmission through an ordinary FM radio over a remarkable distance. I've seen lots of designs through the years, some of them were so simple, some of them were powerful, some of them were hard to build etc.
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM:
TRANSISITOR SUBSTITUTION:
Transistor is not a critical part of the circuit, but selecting a high frequency / low noise one contributes the sound quality and range of the transmitter. PN2222A, 2N2222A, BFxxx series, BC109B, C, and even well known BC238 runs perfect. Key to a well functioning, low consumption circuit is to use a high hFE / low Ceb (internal junction capacity) transistor.
INDUCTOR:
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The critical part is the inductance L which should be handmade. Get an enameled copper wire of 0.5mm (AWG24) and round two loose loops having a diameter of 45mm. Wire size may vary as well. Rest of the work is much dependent on your level of knowledge and experience on inductances: Have an FM radio near the circuit and set frequency where is no reception. Apply power to the circuit and put a iron rod into the inductance loops to chance it's value. When you find the right point, adjust inductance's looseness and, if required, number of turns. Once it's OK, you may use trimmer capacitor to make further frequency adjustments. You may get help of a experienced person on this point. Do not forget to fix inductance by pouring some glue onto it against external forces. If the reception on the radio lost in a few meters range, than it's probably caused by a wrong coil adjustment and you are in fact listening to a harmonic of the transmitter instead of the center frequency. Place radio far away from the circuit and re-adjust. An oscilloscope would make it easier..
ADVANTAGE:
Here is the last step of this evolution, the most stable, smallest, problem less, and energy saving champion of this race. Circuit given below will serve as a durable and versatile FM transmitter till you break or crush it's PCB. Frequency is determined by a parallel L-C resonance circuit and shifts very slow as battery drains out.
FM TRANSMITTER:
The circuit of the transmitter is shown in Figure 1, and as you can see it is quite simple. The first stage is the oscillator, and is tuned with the variable capacitor. Select an unused frequency, and carefully adjust C3 until the background noise stops (you have to disable the FM receiver's mute circuit to hear this).
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Figure 1 - Low Power FM Transmitter Because the trimmer cap is very sensitive, make the final frequency adjustment on the receiver. When assembling the circuit, make sure the rotor of C3 is connected to the +9V supply. This ensures that there will be minimal frequency disturbance when the screwdriver touches the adjustment shaft. You can use a small piece of non copper-clad circuit board to make a screwdriver - this will not alter the frequency. The frequency stability is improved considerably by adding a capacitor from the base of Q1 to ground. This ensures that the transistor operates in true common base at RF. A value of 1nF (ceramic) as shown is suitable, and will also limit the HF response to 15 kHz - this is a benefit for a simple circuit like this, and even commercial FM is usually limited to a 15kHz bandwidth.
CAPACITORS :
All capacitors must be ceramic (with the exception of C1, see below), with C2 and C6 preferably being N750 (Negative temperature coefficient, 750 parts per million per degree Celsius). The others should be NPO types, since temperature correction is not needed (nor is it desirable). If you cannot get N750 caps, don't worry too much, the frequency stability of the circuit is not that good anyway (as with all simple transmitters).
HOW IT WORKS :
Q1 is the oscillator, and is a conventional Colpitts design. L1 and C3 (in parallel with C2) tunes the circuit to the desired frequency, and the output (from the emitter of Q1) is fed to the buffer and amplifier Q2. This isolates the antenna from the oscillator giving much better frequency stability, as well as providing considerable extra gain. L2 and C6 form a tuned collector load, and C7 helps to further isolate the circuit from the antenna,
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as well as preventing any possibility of short circuits should the antenna contact the grounded metal case that would normally be used for the complete transmitter. The audio signal applied to the base of Q1 causes the frequency to change, as the transistor's collector current is modulated by the audio. This provides the frequency modulation (FM) that can be received on any standard FM band receiver. The audio input must be kept to a maximum of about 100mV, although this will vary somewhat from one unit to the next. Higher levels will cause the deviation (the maximum frequency shift) to exceed the limits in the receiver - usually 75kHz. With the value shown for C1, this limits the lower frequency response to about 50Hz (based only on R1, which is somewhat pessimistic) - if you need to go lower than this, then use a 1uF cap instead, which will allow a response down to at least 15Hz. C1 may be polyester or mylar, or a 1uF electrolytic may be used, either bipolar or polarised. If polarised, the positive terminal must connect to the 10k resistor.
INDUCTORS :
The inductors are nominally 10 turns (actually 9.5) of 1mm diameter enamelled copper wire. They are close wound on a 3mm diameter former, which is removed after the coils are wound. Carefully scrape away the enamel where the coil ends will go through the board - all the enamel must be removed to ensure good contact. Figure 2 shows a detail drawing of a coil. The coils should be mounted about 2mm above the board. For those still stuck in the dark ages with imperial measurements (grin), 1mm is about 0.04" (0.0394") or 5/127 inch (chuckle) - you will have to work out what gauge that is, depending on which wire gauge system you use (there are several). You can see the benefits of metric already, can't you? To work out the other measurements, 1" = 25.4mm
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The nominal (and very approximate) inductance for the coils is about 130nH.This is calculated according to the formula ... L = N * r / (228r + 254l) ... where L = inductance in microhenries (uH), N = number of turns, r = average coil radius (2.0mm for the coil as shown), and l = coil length. All dimensions are in millimetres.
Notes.
You can assemble the circuit on a general purpose PCB. The circuit can be powered from a9V PP3 battery. The Antenna A1 can be a 1M long wire. The inductor L1 can be made by making 6 turns of 0.8mm enameled copper wire on a 5.5mm diameter/4.5mm length plastic former. With a matching antenna and proper tuning this transmitter can have range upto 100meters.
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