TM 9-765 BOMB SERVICE TRUCK M6

/
TM 9-765
(Chevrolet)
AUGUST 13, 1942
WAR DEPARTMENT
TECHNICAL MANUAL
BOMB SERVICE TRUCK M6
Generated on 2013-07-06 15:31 GMT / http://hdl.handle.net/2027/uc1.b3243752 Public Domain, Google-digitized / http://www.hathitrust.org/access_use#pd-google
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TM 9-765
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TECHNICAL MANUAL 1 ~-T- ^ <VO (/? -T WAR DEPARTMENT
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No. 9-765 ' Washington, August 13, 1942
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BOMB SERVICE TRUCK M6 (Chevrolet)
Prepared under the direction of the
Chief of Ordnance
(With the cooperation of the Chevrolet Motor Division, General Motors Corporation)
PART ONEOperating Instructions
Paragraphs Pages
SECTION I: Introduction 1-3 4 7
II: Operation and controls 47 8-18
III: Inspection 8-14 19- 22
IV: Lubrication 15-19 23- 29
V: General care and preservation 20-21 30
VI: Painting 22-27 31- 33
VII: Tools and equipment on vehicle 28-29 34
VIII: Operations under unusual condi-
tions 30-30A 35- 39
IX: Materiel affected by gas 31-34 40- 42
PART TWOOrganization Maintenance
Paragraphs Pages
X: Scope of maintenance operations 35-37 43 47
XI: Front axle 38-41 48- 54
XII: Rear axle 42-45 55- 59
XIII: Body :46-50 60- 69
XIV: Brake system 51-63 70-101
XV: Clutch 64-68 102-110
XVI: Cooling system 69-84 111-124
XVII: Battery and starting system . . 85-90 125-131
XVIII: Generator and controls 91-95 132-140
, M57463&
TM 9-765
PART TWO-Organization Maintenance (Continued)
Paragraphs
Pages
XIX:
Ignition system
96-102
141-151
XX:
Lighting and wiring systems .
103-109
152-161
XXI:
Engine . .
110-122
162-195
XXII:
Exhaust system
123-126
196-198
XXIII:
Frame
127-129
199-201
XXIV:
Fuel system
130-136
202-212
XXV:
Instruments and gages
137-142
213-218
XXVI:
Propeller shafts
143-148
219-226
XXVII:
Chassis sheet metal
149-152
227-230
XXVIII:
Springs and shock absorbers . .
153-158
231-238
XXIX:
Steering gear
159-162
239-246
XXX:
Transfer case
163-166
247-250
XXXI:
Transmission
167-170
251-257
XXXII:
Wheels, wheel bearings, tires .
171-174
258-267
XXXIII:
Storage of vehicle
268
XXXIV:
References
175-176
269-270
INDEX
271-280
TM 9-765
RA PD 32203
RA PD 32202
Figure 3Chevrolet Bomb Service TruckLeft Front
Figure 2Chevrolet Bomb Service TruckRight Side
TM 9-765
1-2
PART ONE OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
Section I
INTRODUCTION
Paragraph
Scope 1
General description 2
Data 3
1. SCOPE.
a. This manual is published for the information and guidance of the
using arms and services.
b. In addition to a description of the CHEVROLET 4x4 MODEL
G-7128 BOMB SERVICE TRUCK M6, this manual contains technical
information required for the identification, use and care of the materiel.
c. Disassembly, assembly and such repairs as may be handled by
using arms personnel will be undertaken only under the supervision of an
officer or the chief mechanic.
d. In all cases where the nature of the repair, modification, or adjust-
ment is beyond the scope or facilities of the unit, the responsible ord-
nance service should be informed in order that trained personnel with
suitable tools and equipment may be provided or proper instructions
issued.
2. GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
a. The bomb service truck is used to load, unload and tow bomb trail-
ers. It is powered by a six-cylinder valve-in-head engine. A single plate
dry disk clutch with a diaphragm spring is used.
b. A selective sliding gear type transmission supplies four forward
speeds and one reverse speed.
c. In order to provide a drive to the front axle as well as an auxiliary
low speed, a two-speed transfer case is mounted back of the transmission.
d. Tubular drive shafts with needle type universal joints are used
between the transfer case and axles as well as between the transfer case
and transmission.
e. The frame, constructed of heavy channel steel, supports the open
type body and platform on which a hoist for loading and unloading the
bomb trailer is mounted.
TM 9-765
INTRODUCTION
3. DATA.
a. General.
Wheelbase 125 in.
Weight (shipping) 6040 Ib
Weight (road) 6325 Ib
Ground clearance 18j in.
Tread (center to center of tracks) 60 {'in.
Width o^er-all 72 in.
Height over-all 91% in.
Length over-all 2203/s in.
Tire pressure 55 Ib
b. Engine.
Number of cylinders
Firing order
Bore and stroke
Piston displacement
Compression ratio
Rated horsepower (at 3100 rpm)
Weight of engine and clutch ass'y-
1-5-3-6-2-4
3A x 3H
235.5 cu in.
6.62 to 1
93
574 Ib
c. Fuel, Oil, and Cooling Capacities.
Fuel capacity
Oil capacity, engine
Transmission
Transfer case
Front axle
Rear axle
Cooling system
Cruising range
Main tank, 30 gal
Auxiliary tank, 18 gal
5 qt
5Vi pt
4pt
13% pt
14 pt
17V4 qt
250 miles
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TM 9-765
Load Control
INTRODUCTION
TM 9-765
Section II
OPERATION AND CONTROLS
Paragraph
General information on instruments and controls 4
Prestarting inspection 5
Starting the engine 6
Operating the vehicle 7
4. GENERAL INFORMATION ON INSTRUMENTS AND CON-
TROLS.
a. It is of definite importance that the driver of one of these vehicles
be thoroughly familiar with the various controls and their proper use.
Even the experienced driver should study the controls shown in figures
4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10 as there are a number which are not ordinarily found
on standard vehicles.
h. Figure 4 illustrates the controls, instruments and instruction plates
and their location. In the following instructions we will refer to this illus-
tration by the key number of the control or instrument being discussed
so that the reader may easily follow the instructions.
c. Temperature Indicator No. 1 indicates the temperature of the
liquid in the cooling system at all times. The dial of the instrument indi-
cates temperature in degrees Fahrenheit. The driver should watch this
instrument closely for any indication of excessive temperature. Whenever
the indicator hand shows over 180 degrees, the driver should immediately
investigate the cause of the excessive temperature. Continuing to drive
an over-heated engine may cause permanent damage to its working parts.
d. Fuel Gage No. 2 registers the amount of fuel in either the main
tank or the auxiliary tank, according to the position of the gas tank gage
selector switch No. 3, when the ignition switch is also turned on. The gage
has gradations for empty, Vi, l/a, 3A and full.
e. Fuel Gage Gas Tank Selector Switch No. 3. When it is desired to
check the quantity of fuel in the main tank, the switch lever should be up,
and when checking the auxiliary tank the switch lever should be down.
The position of this switch should coincide with the position of the gas-
oline tank selector valve shown in figure 5.
f. Speedometer No. 4 indicates the speed at which the vehicle is being
driven. The odometer registers the total number of miles the vehicle has
been driven.
TM 9-765
g. Oil Pressure Cage No. 5 indicates the oil pressure in the lubrica-
tion system. The driver should watch this instrument closely and, if the
indicator hand drops to zero, the engine should be stopped immediately
and the cause of oil pressure failure investigated and corrected before con-
tinuing to run the engine.
MAIN TANK
BM
CLOSED
BBMBBI
AUXILIARY TANK
Figure 5Gasoline Tank Selector Lever
RA PD 32205
h. Ammeter No. 6 is used to indicate whether the battery is being
charged or discharged when the vehicle is in operation. If the ammeter
shows discharge at all times, the cause should be investigated and cor-
rected; otherwise the battery will be discharged.
i. Lighting Switch No. 7 controls the lighting circuits. When the light-
ing switch is pulled out to the first position, it turns on the blackout head
lamps and taillight and, in addition, this position permits turning on the
blackout stop lamp when the brakes are applied. To turn on the regular
headlights, depress the blackout button on top of the switch and pull the
control button out to the second position. In this position, circuits are
established to the regular tail and stop lights. When the lighting switch
button is pulled out to the third position, it closes circuits for the service
stop light during daylight driving.
j. Carburetor Choke Control No. 8 is used when starting a cold
engine. Pulling out this control button shuts off the air to the carburetor
TM 9-765
providing a rich mixture. The choke button should be pushed in when
the engine starts. If the engine is warm, the use of the choke is unnec-
essary.
k. Ignition Switch No. 9 is operated by turning the ignition switch
key. Turning the key to the right turns on the ignition by closing the
ignition primary circuit, while turning the key to the left turns off the
ignition by opening the primary circuit.
1. Hand Throttle No. 10 is located on the instrument panel to the
right of the ignition switch; pulling this button opens throttle. This
control may be used when starting or, if it is desired, to run the engine
at a constant speed.
m. Instrument Panel Light Switch No. 11 controls the instrument
panel lights. Pulling out on the switch button lights the panel lights
only when the main light switch No. 7 is in regular or service lights
position. The panel lights will not operate while the blackout lights
are on.
n. Panel Lights No. 12 are hooded and illuminate the instruments
when the panel light switch is pulled out and the regular light switch
is in service light position.
o. Headlight Dimmer Switch No. 13 is a foot switch used to select
the headlight beam (upper or lower) desired after the headlights are
turned on, by depressing the switch button with the foot. Always use the
lower beam when passing approaching vehicles. This is an important
highway safety rule.
p. Clutch Pedal No. 14 is used to disengage the engine from the trans-
mission when shifting gears. The clutch should never be engaged
quickly when the vehicle is in gear. Driving with foot on pedal will cause
wear of clutch facings and throw out bearing. There should be one inch
of free travel of the clutch pedal before the clutch starts to disengage.
q. Brake Pedal No. 15. Pressing on the brake pedal applies the
hydraulic brakes at all four wheels and also operates the electric brake
control unit for the trailer brakes.
r. Accelerator No. 16 is used in driving to control the speed of the
engine.
s. Starter Switch Pedal No. 17. Pressing down on pedal with foot
engages the starter and flywheel gears and also closes the starter switch,
completing the electrical circuit between battery and starter. Rotation
of starter cranks the engine. When the engine starts, the foot should be
removed from pedal immediately.
10
TM 9-765
t. Transmission Gear Shift Lever No. 18 is used to select various
gear ratios provided in the transmission. There are four forward speeds
and one reverse speed. Reverse gear can only be engaged when latch on
gear shift lever is raised. Lever positions for the various gears will be
discussed in paragraph 7.
u. Hand Brake Lever No. 19 is used to control the parking brake
at the rear of the transfer case. Pulling the hand brake lever toward
the rear applies the parking brake, while pushing it forward releases
the brake. Whenever the vehicle is parked, the lever should be pulled
tpward the rear as far as possible. Before moving the vehicle lever
should be pushed forward to the fully released position.
v. Transfer Case Shifting Lever No. 20 is used to select either
high, low or neutral speed ranges in the transfer case. The shifting lever
is linked to the front axle control lever No. 21 in such a way that it is
impossible to shift into the low speed in the transfer case without the
drive to the front axle being engaged.
NOMENCLATURE: l'/j-TON 4x4 BOMB SERVICE TRUCK M-6
L SUPPLY ARM OR SERVICE MAINTAINING TRUCK |
ORDNANCE DEPT. U. S. ARMY
MAKE AND MODEL-CHEVROLET-1942-67128
MFG. SERIAL NUMBER
ORDNANCE SERIAL NUMBER
CONTRACT-W 374-ORD.-1281
GROSS WEIGHT 6990 IBS.
MAXIMUM PAY LOAD AND DRIVER 20OO LBS.
MAXIMUM TRAILED LOAD 140OO LBS.
DATE OF DELIVERY
OCTANE RATING OF GASOLINE 70-72
ENGINE LUBRICATION RECOMMENDED
WINTER S.A.E. 10, SUMMER S.A.E. 30; FOLLOW INSTRUCTION
BOOK FOR ALL GENERAL LUBRICATION; ALSO
FOR EXTREME CLIMATIC CONDITIONS
RA PD 32206
Figure 6Identification Plate
w. Front Axle Control Lever No. 21 permits engaging or disen-
gaging the front axle drive through the transfer case. When the lever is
pushed forward, the front drive is engaged, and when it is pulled toward
11
TM 9-765
the rear, it is disengaged. NOTE: The front axle drive should be dis-
engaged when operating on hard-surfaced roads.
x. Trailer Electric Brake Load Control No. 22. An electrical con-
trol unit for trailer brakes is actuated by the brake foot pedal No. 15
and operates in conjunction with the regular service brakes. The load
control unit No. 22 has four positions for light, medium, medium-heavy
and heavy loads designated by numbers 1, 2, 3 and 4. If the load on the
trailer is light, the load control should be set at No. 1; if the load is
heavy, the control should be set at No. 4. In other words, the load con-
trol should be set in accordance with the weight of the load on the trailer.
y. Serial Number and Load Data Plate No. 23. This plate gives
the serial number of the truck and the load data. Figure 6 illustrates a
sample of the serial number and load data plate.
z. Maximum Permissible Road Speeds Plate No. 24. This plate
gives the maximum permissible road speeds at which the vehicle shall
be driven in the various gear positions with the transfer case in high or
low gear. Figure 7 shows an enlarged view of this plate.
RA PD 32207
Figure 7Road Speed Plate
aa. Glove Compartment Lock No. 25. Pressing in on center of
glove compartment knob with the lock unlocked releases the glove com-
partment door latch and permits opening the door. The glove compart-
ment door may be locked with the key supplied with the vehicle.
12
TM 9-765
ah. Cooling System Draining Caution Plate No. 26 gives the
driver important instructions regarding draining the cooling system.
ac. Gas Tank Valve Control Plate No. 27 indicates the position
in which the gasoline tank control valve should be according to whether
fuel is to be drawn from the main tank or the auxiliary tank. The fuel
gage gas tank selector switch No. 3 should be placed in position corre-
sponding to the tank being used.
acl. Shifting Diagram Plate No. 28 and also figure 8 give the
driver instructions on the various shifting lever positions.
SHIFTING DIAGRAM
TRANSMISSION TRANSFER CASE
LOW
NEUTRAL
NEUT.
REV.
OUT
FRONT
AXLE
DRIVE
HIGH
DISENGAGE FRONT AXLE DRIVE WHEN
OPERATING ON HARD SURFACED ROADS.
Figure 8Shifting Diagram
RA PD 32208
ae. Ventilator Control Lever No. 29 is used to open and close
the cowl ventilator. Pushing the lever forward opens the ventilator,
while pulling it toward the rear closes the ventilator.
af. Windshield Wiper Switches No. 1 (fig. 9), are used to turn
the windshield wipers on and off. The further out these switches are
pulled the faster the wiper blades operate.
13
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ot
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TM 9-765
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ag. Windshield Quadrant Clamp Screws No. 2 (fig. 9) are used
to clamp the windshield in position. Loosening these screws will permit
laying the windshield down horizontally over hood of truck.
ah. Water Bypass Shut-off Cock. The water bypass shut-off cock
(fig. 10) is located between the water temperature indicator adapter
and the steam relief tube leading to the radiator, and should be kept
closed except when the air temperature is above 60 degrees and the
truck is operating on extreme grades. The purpose of this shut-off cock
is to prevent the cooling liquid from bypassing the thermostat under
cold operating conditions and thereby preventing proper operating tem-
perature of the engine being maintained. A metal caution tag wired to
the shut-off cock reads as follows: "This shut-off cock is to be kept
closed. Open only when operating in air temperatures above 60 F on
extreme grades."
5. PRESTARTING INSPECTION.
Before the engine is started, the prestarting inspection outlined in
section III must be performed.
6. STARTING THE ENGINE.
a. Place transmission in neutral. See shifting diagram plate.
b. Pull hand throttle out about % inch.
c. Insert ignition key and turn to "on" position.
d. Pull out on choke button to obtain correct mixture. In warm
weather or with a warm engine this may not be necessary.
e. Step on starter pedal to crank engine;'release pedal as soon as
engine starts.
f. Push in on choke and hand throttle to obtain a smooth idling speed.
In cold weather the engine should run several minutes before attempting
to move the vehicle or run the engine at high speed.
g. Make sure oil gage and ammeter register normal conditions.
h. When starting a cold engine, it will be noted that the oil pressure
gage on the instrument panel will register a high oil pressure. As the
engine warms up, the pressure will drop until it reaches a point where
changes to higher speeds will raise the pressure very little if at all.
i. If the oil pressure registers abnormally high after the engine is
thoroughly warmed up, an inspection should be made to ascertain
whether the oil lines and passages are plugged.
15
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16
TM 9-765
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7. OPERATING THE VEHICLE,
a. Starting the Truck.
(1) Push clutch pedal downward to disengage the clutch.
(2) Shift transfer lever into either high or low speed position. See
shifting diagram plate.
(3) Move transmission gear shift lever to the left and forward into
first gear position.
(4) Release the hand brake lever.
(5) Step down on accelerator pedal to speed up the engine. Engage
clutch slowly and push accelerator pedal down as necessary to pick up
the load and prevent stalling the engine as the truck starts to move.
(6) As truck speed increases, release accelerator pedal, depress the
clutch pedal, move the gear shift lever to neutral and then to the next
higher speed. Step down on accelerator and engage clutch as explained
above. Repeat this operation until transmission is in high gear.
h. Shifting Front Axle Drive Gears in Transfer Case.
(1) The transfer case may be operated in either high or low speed
range when the front axle is engaged, but cannot be operated in low
speed range when the front axle is disengaged.
(2) To engage the front axle, first, shift the transfer case into neutral,
then engage the front axle by moving front axle shift lever forward. Then
place the transfer case shifting lever in the high or low speed position.
(3) To disengage the front axle, shift the transfer case into neutral,
then disengage the front axle by moving front axle shift lever toward
the rear.
c. Shifting Transfer Case from High to Low Speed.
(1) This shift should not be attempted except when the vehicle is
being operated at low speeds or at a standstill. Front axle must be
engaged for this shift.
(2) Depress the clutch pedal and move transfer case shift lever to
neutral position.
(3) Engage clutch pedal and accelerate engine to approximately twice
that of vehicle speed.
(4) Depress clutch pedal again and move shift lever forward (without
applying excessive pressure) into low speed position. Then release clutch
and accelerate engine.
17
TM 9-765
(5) This method of shifting is termed double-clutching. A little
practice will enable driver to make shift smoothly and efficiently.
d. Shifting Transfer Case from Low to High Speed.
(1) This shift may be accomplished at any time, regardless of
vehicle speed.
(2) Release accelerator, depress clutch pedal and move shift lever to
neutral position.
(3) Release clutch pedal and accelerate engine to synchronize engine
speed with that of vehicle.
(4) Depress clutch pedal and move shift lever toward rear into high
speed position.
e. Shifting to Lower Speed in Transmission.
(1) The transmission should always be shifted to the next lower
speed before engine begins to labor or before vehicle speed is reduced
appreciably. Shifting to lower speed is accomplished as follows:
(2) Depress the clutch pedal quickly, maintaining the same pressure
on accelerator. Move gear shift lever to neutral and at the same instant
engage the clutch.
(3) Again depress the clutch pedal and move the gear shift lever to
the next lower speed. Engage the clutch slowly and at the same time
accelerate the engine speed to synchronize it with that of the vehicle.
(4) It is advisable to use the same transmission gear going downhill
as would be required to climb the same hill. This is a safety rule followed
by all good drivers in hilly territory.
f. Shifting into Reverse.
(1) Before attempting to shift into reverse, the truck must be
brought to a complete stop.
(2) Push clutch pedal downward to disengage clutch.
(3) Raise latch on gear shift lever and move lever to left as far as
possible, then toward the rear. See shifting diagram plate.
(4) Engage clutch and accelerate the engine in the same manner as
previously explained in paragraph 7 a.
g. Stopping the Truck.
(1) With trailer electric brake load control on the instrument panel
set in proper position according to trailer load, remove foot from accel-
erator pedal and apply brakes by pressing down on foot pedal.
(2) When speed of truck has been reduced to idling speed of engine,
disengage the clutch and move transmission gear shift lever into neutra,
position.
(3) When truck has come to a complete stop, release clutch pedal.
18
TM 9-765
8-9
Section III
INSPECTION
Paragraph
Purpose 8
Prestarting inspection 9
Inspection during operation 10
Inspection at the halt 11
Inspection daily after operation 12
Periodic inspection every 1000 miles of operation 13
Periodic inspection after 6000 miles of operation 14
8. PURPOSE.
a. To insure mechanical efficiency and normal service, it is neces-
sary that motor vehicles be systematically inspected at regular intervals
in order that the necessary tightening and adjustments or repairs be
made before they result in serious damage.
b. Information or suggestions regarding design which might affect
durability, efficiency and economy, or the safety and comfort of the
operator, should be forwarded to the office of the Chief of Ordnance
through proper channels. Such action is encouraged in order that im-
provements can be made on vehicles in the future.
9. PRESTARTING INSPECTION.
a. Before starting, check the crankcase oil level with the dip stick.
If oil level is down to the low mark, add oil.
b. Check cooling system solution. Add water or antifreeze as
required.
c. Check hose connections for leaks. Tighten if necessary.
d. Check fan belt for correct tension. If necessary, adjust according
to instructions in section XVI.
e. Check tire inflation. Inflate to 55 pounds.
f. Check fuel supply. Replenish if necessary.
g. Check clutch pedal for normal free travel of 1 inch to 1 Vi inches.
If necessary adjust according to instructions in paragraph 67.
h. Check brake condition by depressing pedal, making sure that it
does not go more than half way to floor. If necessary, adjust according
to instructions in paragraph 54.
19
TM 9-765
9-12
i. Check horn. If it fails to blow, the necessary repairs should be
made.
j. Check lights. Any troubles should be repaired according to
instructions in section XX.
k. Check to see that fire extinguisher is in place.
1. Check tools. Shortages should be reported and replacement made
10. INSPECTION DURING OPERATION.
a. The driver should always be alert to detect any abnormal condi-
tions in the operation of the vehicle. Any indications of trouble should
be investigated and corrected before proceeding.
b. Watch the temperature indicator for signs of overheating.
c. Watch the oil gage to make sure that the oil pump is working.
d. Note the ammeter reading for electrical charging rate.
e. Occasionally check the supply of gas in the main and auxiliary
tanks.
11. INSPECTION AT THE HALT.
a. Check for oil or gas leaks and make the necessary corrections.
b. Check amount of solution in cooling system. Add water or anti-
freeze as required.
c. Check oil level in motor. Add oil if down to "add oil" mark.
d. Check tires. Inflate to 55 pounds.
e. Clean windshield and headlights.
12. INSPECTION DAILY AFTER OPERATION.
a. These inspections should be made at the end of a run in order
that the vehicle can be put in condition and ready for use in the least
possible time.
b. Check hand and service brake condition. Report, if repairs or
adjustment are required.
c. Check the engine for smooth idling and any abnormal noises at
different engine speeds. Report any abnormal condition.
d. Check operation of windshield wipers. Report any trouble.
20
TM 9-765
12-13
INSPECTION
e. Check to see that fire extinguisher is in place. If it has been used, it
should be replaced or refilled.
f. Check horn. Report any trouble to service personnel.
g. Check lights: head, tail, stop and blackout. If any repairs are
required, report to service personnel.
h. Check and tighten wheel and axle flange bolts.
i. Check and tighten steering gear housing to frame bolts.
j. Check all steering connections. Report any looseness.
k. Check all tires, including spare. Any damaged tires should be
changed or reported.
1. Check cooling system for leaks. Any leaks should be repaired or
reported.
m. Check fan belt. See paragraph 77 for adjustment instructions.
n. Check engine oil. Add oil if down to "add oil" mark.
o. Check for oil leaks. Any leaks should be corrected or reported.
* p. Check for fuel leaks. Any leaks should be corrected or reported.
13. PERIODIC INSPECTION EVERY 1000 MILES OF OPERA-
TION.
a. Make routine prestarting and halt inspection, and the following:
b. Check front axle lubricant level. See section IV of this manual.
c. Check rear axle lubricant level. See section IV of this manual.
d. Check transfer case lubricant level. See section IV of this manual.
e. Check transmission lubricant level. See section IV of this manual.
f. Inspect gas tanks and fuel lines for leaks. If leaks are found, the
necessary tightening or repairs should be made.
g. Check brake lines for fluid leak. It is essential that all leaks be
corrected at once.
h. Check brake master cylinder for sufficient fluid. Add fluid as
required.
21
TM 9-765
13-14
i. Check brake pedal for excessive travel and adjust brakes if neces-
sary. See paragraph 54.
j. Check steering gear adjustment. If adjustment is necessary, follow
instructions in paragraph 161.
k. Check steering tie rod and connecting rod ends for correct adjust-
ment and proper locking. If necessary, adjust according to instructions in
section XXIX of this manual.
1. Tighten steering gear to frame anchorage.
m. Tighten wheel to hub bolt nuts.
n. Tighten axle flange bolts.
o. Tighten spring to axle U bolts.
p. Tighten all propeller shaft universal joint U bolt nuts.
q. Add distilled water to battery.
r. Test all electrical units and tighten connections. See sections XVII
to XX of this manual.
s. Road test car.
t. Tighten transfer case to frame bolts.
14. PERIODIC INSPECTION AFTER 6000 MILES OF OPERA-
TION.
a. Make all inspections referred to under "Prestarting," "Halt," and
"1000 Mile Inspection."
b. Inspect wheel bearings. Adjust and lubricate if necessary.
c. Inspect and adjust brakes. See section XIV of this manual for
instructions.
d. Inspect and fill shock absorbers. See section XXVIII.
e. Inspect driving units for backlash or looseness. Tighten or repair
if necessary.
f. Tune engine completely. See paragraph 116.
g. Drain and flush cooling system.
h. Check electrical system and wiring, and make necessary ad-
justments.
22
TM 9-765
15-16
Section IV
LUBRICATION
Paragraph
Introduction 15
Schedules . . .: 16
Methods 17
Detailed lubrication instructions 18
Records 19
15. INTRODUCTION.
Lubrication is an essential part of preventive maintenance, determining
to a great extent the serviceability of parts and assemblies. Lubrication,
or the lack of it, influences materially repairs and operations and is one
of the most important factors affecting dependable service and useful
vehicle life. Vehicles must be lubricated in accordance with the latest
lubrication instructions. Refer to the general instruction section (OFSB
6-1) for additional lubrication information and to the Product Guide
(OFSB 6-2) for the latest approved lubricants.
16. SCHEDULES.
Lubrication instructions are consolidated and charted in schedules for
each make of vehicle. Figures 11 and 12 are lubrication charts for the
bomb service truck and bomb lift truck. In general, the chassis and slow-
motion parts should be lubricated every seven days or 50 hours of vehicle
operation. The crankcase oil should be checked frequently and changed
after not more than 1000 miles of operation or more often during pro-
longed periods of cross-country driving, hard pulls, or idling. Gear lubri-
cants should be checked weekly and changed seasonally, unless operating
mileage requires more frequent changes. Severe operating conditions may
necessitate immediate action. For detailed information see section VIII.
All breathers in housings and gear cases should be examined frequently
to check that they are clean and free.
a. Records. A complete record of lubrication will be kept for every
vehicle. Responsible personnel will execute a check sheet at regular inter-
vals to indicate the actual mileage and date at which each component
received such attention as prescribed.
b. Supplies. Lubricants and application equipment should conform
to the recommendations of responsible manufacturers or the supply serv-
ices concerned. Refer to OFSB 6-2 for the Product Guide. During field
service, it may not be possible to supply a complete assortment of lubri-
cants called for by the schedule to meet the recommendations and it will
23
TM 9-765
16-18
be necessary to make the best use of those available, subject to inspection
by the motor officer concerned in consultation with responsible ordnance
personnel.
17. METHODS.
Lubricants are applied to vehicles by employing the equipment pro-
vided by the Tables of Basic Allowances.
a. Application. Refer to OFSB 6-10 for general automotive lubri-
cating instructions.
b. NOTE: Friction and vibration tend to develop squeaks, groans,
and improper fitting of rubber chassis parts, instrument panel accessories,
and engine mounts. Lubricants such as mineral oil, castor oil, or greases
must not be used by reason of their tending to swell or rot the rubber.
A suitable lubricating material can be made by mixing collodial graphite
with ethylene glycol or glycerine, and adding enough water to prevent
rapid drying before the solution has penetrated. The solution can be
applied with an ordinary spray, but a needle spray will be needed to force
the lubricant between parts having close clearance. Rubber parts which
are used to keep other parts from slipping or rotating should not be
lubricated.
18. DETAILED LUBRICATION INSTRUCTIONS.
a. Manifold Heating Control. Manifold heating control assemblies
are automatically operated but the gate valve on the intake manifold
requires lubrication every 500 miles. Apply GREASE, graphite, light, to
keep hinge from rusting.
b. Front Wheel Bearings. Front wheel bearings must be lubricated
at intervals shown on figure 11.
(1) Remove wheel and bearings. Wash bearings and interior of hubs.
(2) Pack GREASE, general purpose, No. 2, into bearings only and
replace.
(3) Tighten adjustment nut until wheel binds. Back off nut slightly
until wheel spins freely without side play.
(4) Lock nut in place.
c. Rear Wheel Bearings. Rear axle is full floating type and the axle
shaft must be removed to adjustment bearings.
(1) Unscrew axle shaft flange stud nuts which hold axle and remove
axle, oil seal and retainer.
(2) Release two lock nuts which hold bearings. Remove, wash, dry
and pack with GREASE, general purpose, No. 2.
24
TM 9-765
18-19
LUBRICATION
(3) Replace bearing and tighten lock nut until wheel binds. Back off
nut Vs turn or sufficiently to permit wheel to turn freely without play.
(4) Replace second lock nut, tighten and test adjustment.
d. Bomb Lift Truck. The truck is equipped with eight Oilite bear-
ings, which require periodic attention. Oilite bearings are impregnated
with oil at the time of manufacture, but oil must be replenished as it
is used.
( 1) Oil sparingly every two months.
(2 ) When truck is disassembled, remove shaft from bearings and wash
shaft and bearings in OIL, engine, SAE 10. Permit bearings to absorb all
the oil they will take. Do not wipe away surface oil.
e. Bomb Lift Hydraulic Cylinder. Refill every six months with OIL,
engine, SAE 10. CAUTION: Do not confuse with hydraulic brake equip-
ment. Brake or recoil fluid will damage the bomb lift mechanism.
(1) To refill cylinder, lower platform, remove plug and fill until oil is
level with top of panel rod.
(2 ) To remove cylinder, extract the five cotters and remove the two
retaining pins. Tighten cylinder packing nuts at first evidence of leaking.
19. RECORDS.
A complete record of lubrication servicing will be kept for the materiel.
25
IM V-765
19
TRUCK. BOMB SERVICE. M6
(CHEVROLET)
MFR'S. STARTING SERIAL No.14NQ10-1684. Located on plate on dash.
CAUTION-Lubricate Dotted
Arrow Points on BOTH SIDES
Lubricant e Interva1
Spring Shackle CG 1 .--*
Shock Absorber SA S _-
(Fill to plug level)
Front Wheel Brgs. (remove) WB !/ /
INote 6)
Universal Joint and CG 1 '
Steering Knuckle Bearings
INote 7)
Tie Rod CG 1 /
Drag Link CG 1
Spring Bolt CG 1
Spring Bolt CG 1
Rear Wheel Brgs. (remove) WB 5
(Note 6) , %
Shock Absorber SA 5 f-
(Fill to plug level)
Spring Shackle CG 1 .;J
NOTESee Fig. 12 for lubrication of WINCH and BOMB LIFT TRUCK
KEY
LUBRICANTS
INTERVALS
OE OIL, Engine
Crankcase grade
GO LUBRICANT, Gear, Universal
Seasonal grade
CG GREASE, General Purpose
No. 1 (above -"-32)
No. 1 or No. 0
( + 32 to +10)
No. 0 (below +10)
WB GREASE, General
Purpose No. 2
HB FLUID, Brake, Hydraulic
SA SHOCK ABSORBER FLUID
Light
11,000 MILES
5 5,000 MILES
CHECK DAILY
Crankcase
Air Cleaners
Interval Lubricant
5 GO Front Axle Diff. (See Table)
(Note 5)
SERVICED FROM UNDER HOOD
1 OE Generator (Sparingly)
1 OE Crankcase (See Table)
Drain, refill (Note 3)
(Check level daily)
1 WB Distributor (grease cup)
(Refill cup, turn 1 full turn)
Wick under rotor
(Note 11)
1 OE Universal Joint (Note 8)
(Under truck)
1 OE Starter (Sparingly)
5 OE Accelerating Pump Shaft
(Note 10)
5 Oil Pilfer (Note 9)
1 GO Steering Gear (plug)
1 HB Brake Master Cylinder
TM 9-765
19
LUBRICATION
MFR'S. STARTING SERIAL No.14NQ10-1684. Located on plot* on dash.
TABLE OF CAPACITIES WITH RECOMMENDATIONS AT TEMPERATURES SHOWN
Capacity
Above +32
+ 32 to +10
+ 10 to 10
BELOW 10
Ol
Ol
Ol
Crankcase
5q
SAE 30
SAE 30 or 10
SAE 10
Transmission
2V4q
Differential (front)
6*q
Differential (rear)
7q
Transfer Case
2q
NOTES Additional Lubrication and Service Instructions on individual Units and Parts NOTES
COLD WEATHER: For Lubrication and Service below10, refer to OFSB 6-11.
1. FITTINGSClean before applying lu-
bricant. Lubricate until new grease is
forced from the bearing. CAUTION:
Lubricate chassis points after washing
truck.
2. AIR CLEANERS(Engine) Check level
and refill oil cup to bead level daily
with O.E. Drain, clean and refill every
100 to 1000 miles, depending on op-
erating conditions. Every 2000 miles,
also remove air cleaner and wash all
parts. (Brake Vacuum Cylinder) Every
6 months, wash curled hair, dry and
oil with OE.
3. CRANKCASEDrain only when en-
gine is hot. Refill to FULL mark on
gage. Run engine a few minutes and
recheck oil level. CAUTION: Be sure
pressure gage indicates oil is circu-
lating. See Table.
4. INTERVALS indicated are for normal
service.. For extreme conditions of
speed, heat, water, mud, snow, rough
roads, dust, etc., change crankcase
oil and lubricate more frequently.
5. GEAR CASES Check level every
1000 miles, add lubricant if neces-
sary. Check with truck on level ground.
Drain, flush and refill at end of first
1000 miles; thereafter as indicated
at points on guide. When draining,
drain immediately after operation.
6. WHEEL BEARINGS (Front and rear)
Remove wheel, clean and" repack
bearings.
7. UNIVERSAL JOINTS (Front wheels)
Remove level plug in rear of joint
and fill through fitting, located on
bottom of joint housing, to level of
plug opening.
8. UNIVERSAL JOINTS AND SLIP
JOINTSApply lubricant to joint until
TM 9-765
19
WINCH AND BOMB LIFT TRUCK
(CHEVROLET)
TRUCK STARTING SERIAL No.14NQ10-1684. Located on plat, on dash.
Lubricant Interval
Drive Gear and Pinion CG M
(Coal gear teeth lightly)
(Note 21
Ratchet Shaft (oil hole) OE W
WINCH
Rear Wheel Bearing CG 2M
Interval Lubricant
W OE Pinion Shaft Bearing
M CG Internal Gear and Pinion
(Coat gear teeth lightly)
W OE Drum Shaft Bearings
2M CG Caster Wheel Bearing
(M OE Hydraulic Cylinder (SAE 10)
(Note 3)
BOMB LIFT TRUCK
NOTESee Fig. 11 for lubrication of TRUCK
KEY
2M CG Rear Wheel Bearing
LUBRICANTS
INTERVALS
OE OIL. Engine
Crankcase grade
CG GREASE, Genera1 Purpose
No. 1 (above +32)
No. 1 or No. 0
( + 32 to -HO0)
No. 0 (below +10)
W WEEKLY
M MONTHLY
2M 2 MONTHS
4M i MONTHS
RA PD 43320
Figure 12-Lubrication Chart-Winch and Bomb Lift
28
TM 9-765
19
LUBRICATION
MFR'S. STARTING SERIAL NO.UNQ10-1684. Located on plate on dash.
NOTES Additional Lubrication and Service Instructions on Individual Units and Parts NOTES
COLD WEATHER: For Lubrication and Service below10, refer to OFSB 6-11.
1. FITTINGSClean before applying lu-
bricant. Lubricate until new grease is
forced from the bearing. CAUTION:
Lubricate after washing truck.
2. DRIVE GEAR AND PINIONRemove
hand crank shaft by removing cotter
pin in shaft lock pin, clean and coat
with CG monthly.
3. HYDRAULIC CYLINDERWith plat-
form in lowered position, remove fill
plug and fill hydraulic cylinder with
OE SAE 10 until oil is level with top of
piston rod.
4. OIL CAN POINTSLubricate bomb
lift truck handle bearings, hydraulic
jack pedal shaft bearings, lift clevises
and linkage, with OE every 2 months,
and winch support beam sheaves with
OE weekly.
5. POINTS REQUIRING NO LUBRICA-
TIONCaster Pivot Bearing. RA PD 433JOA
Nomenclature for Figure 12Lubrication ChartWinch and
Bomb Lift
29
TM 9-765
20-21
Section V
GENERAL CARE AND PRESERVATION
Paragraph
Records 20
Cleaning . 21
20. RECORDS.
a. Use. An accurate record must be kept of each motor vehicle issued
by the Ordnance Department. For this purpose the Ordnance Motor
Book (O. O. Form No. 7255), generally called "Log Book," is issued with
each vehicle and must accompany it at all times. This book furnishes a
complete record of the vehicle, from which valuable information concern-
ing operation and maintenance costs, etc., are obtained, and organization
commanders must insist that correct entries are made. This book will
habitually be kept in a canvas cover to prevent its being injured or soiled.
b. The page bearing a record of assignment must be destroyed prior
to entering the combat zone. All other reference which may be posted
regarding the identity of the organization must also be deleted.
21. CLEANING.
a. Grit, dirt, and mud are the sources of greatest wear to a vehicle.
If deposits of dirt and grit are allowed to accumulate, particles will soon
find their way into bearing surfaces, causing unnecessary wear, and if the
condition is not remedied, will soon cause serious difficulty. When remov-
ing engine parts or any other units, in making repairs and replacements,
or if in the course of inspection working joints or bearing surfaces are to be
exposed, all dirt and grit that might find its way to the exposed surfaces
must first be carefully removed. The tools must be clean, and care must
always be taken to eliminate the possibilities of brushing dirt or grit into
the opening with the sleeve or other part of the clothing. To cut oil-soaked
dirt and grit, hardened grit, or road oil, use SOLVENT, dry cleaning,
applied with rags (not waste) or a brush. The vehicle is so designed that
the possibility of interfering with its proper operation by careless applica-
tion of cleaning water is very small. However, care should be taken to keep
water from the power unit, as it might interfere with proper ignition and
carburetion.
b. Oil holes which have become clogged should be opened with a
piece of wire. Wood should never be used for this purpose, as splinters
are likely to break off and permanently clog the passages. Particular care
should be taken to clean and decontaminate vehicles that have been
caught in a gas attack. See section IX for details of this operation.
30
TM 9-765
22-23
Section VI
PAINTING
Paragraph
General 22
Preparing for painting 23
Painting metal surfaces 24
Paint as a camouflage 25
Removing paint 26
Painting lubricating devices 27
22. GENERAL.
a. Ordnance materiel is painted before issue to the using arms, and
one maintenance coat per year will ordinarily be ample for protection.
With but few exceptions this materiel will be painted with ENAMEL,
synthetic, olive drab, lusterless. The enamel may be applied over old coats
of long oil enamel and oil paint previously issued by the Ordnance De-
partment if the old coat is in satisfactory condition for repainting.
b. Paints and enamels are usually issued ready for use and are applied
by brush or spray. They may be brushed on satisfactorily when used un-
thinned in the original package consistency or when thinned no more than
5 percent by volume with THINNER. The enamel will spray satisfac-
torily when thinned with 15 percent by volume of THINNER. (Linseed
oil must not be used as a thinner since it will impart a luster not desired
in this enamel.) If sprayed, it dries hard enough for repainting within
Vz hour and dries hard in 16 hours.
c. Certain exceptions to the regulations concerning painting exist.
Items which require a crystalline finish will not be painted with
ENAMEL, olive drab.
d. Complete information on painting is contained in TM 9-850.
23. PREPARING FOR PAINTING.
a. If the base coat on the materiel is in poor condition, it is more
desirable to strip the old paint from the surface than to use sanding and
touchup methods. After stripping, it will then be necessary to apply a
primer coat.
b. PRIMER, ground, synthetic, should be used on wood as a base coat
for synthetic enamel. It may be applied either by brushing or spraying.
It will brush satisfactorily as received or after the addition of not more
31
TM 9-765
23-25
than 5 percent by volume of THINNER. It will be dry enough to touch in
30 minutes and hard in 5 to 7 hours. For spraying, it may be thinned with
not more than 15 percent by volume of THINNER. Lacquers must- not
be applied to the PRIMER, ground, synthetic, within less than 48 hours.
c. PRIMER, synthetic, rust inhibiting, for bare metal, should be used
on metal as a base coat. Its use and application is similar to that outlined
in paragraph b above.
d. The success of a job of painting depends partly on the selection of
a suitable paint, but also largely upon the care used in preparing the sur-
face prior to painting. All parts to be painted should be free from rust,
dirt, grease, kerosene, oil, and alkali, and must be dry.
24. PAINTING METAL SURFACES.
If metal parts are in need of cleaning, they should be washed in a
liquid solution consisting of half pound of SODA ASH in 8 quarts of warm
water, or an equivalent solution, and then rinsed in clear water and wiped
thoroughly dry. Wood parts in need of cleaning should be treated in the
same manner, but the alkaline solution must not be left on for more than
a few minutes and the surfaces should be wiped dry as soon as they are
washed clean. When automotive equipment is in fair condition and only
marred in spots, the bad places should be touched with ENAMEL,
synthetic, olive drab, lusterless, and permitted to dry. The whole surface
will then be sandpapered with PAPER, flint, No. 1, and a finish coat of
ENAMEL, synthetic, olive drab, lusterless, applied and allowed to dry
thoroughly before the materiel is used. If the equipment is in bad condi-
tion, all parts should be thoroughly sanded with PAPER, flint, No. 2, or
equivalent, given a coat of PRIMER, ground, synthetic, and permitted to
dry for at least 16 Lours. They will then be sandpapered with PAPER,
flint, No. 00, wiped free from dust and dirt, and final coal of ENAMEL,
synthetic, olive drab, lusterless, applied and allowed to dry thoroughly
before the materiel is used.
25. PAINT AS A CAMOUFLAGE.
Camouflage is now a major consideration in painting ordnance vehicles,
with rust prevention secondary. The camouflage plan at present employed
utilizes three factors: Color, gloss and stenciling.
a. Color. Vehicles are painted with ENAMEL, synthetic, olive drab,
lusterless, which was chosen to blend in reasonably well with the average
landscape.
32
TM 9-765
26-27
PAINTING
26. REMOVING PAINT.
After repeated paintings, the paint may become so thick as to crack
and scale off in places, presenting an unsightly appearance. If such is the
case, remove the old paint by use of a lime-and-lye solution (see TM
9-850 for details) or REMOVER, paint and varnish. It is important that
every trace of lye or other paint remover be completely rinsed off and that
the equipment be perfectly dry before repainting is attempted. It is pref-
erable that the use of lye solutions be limited to iron or steel parts. If
used on wood, the lye solution must not be allowed to remain on the
surface for more than a minute before being thoroughly rinsed off and
the surface wiped dry with rags. Crevices or cracks in wood should be
filled with putty and the wood sandpapered before refinishing. The sur-
faces thus prepared should be painted according to directions in para-
graph 23.
27. PAINTING LUBRICATING DEVICES.
Oil cups, grease fittings, oil holes, and similar lubricating devices, as
well as a circle about three-fourths of an inch in diameter at each point
of lubrication will be painted with ENAMEL, red, water resisting, in
order that they may be readily located.
33
TM 9-765
28-29
Section VII
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT ON VEHICLE
Paragraph
Equipment furnished 28
Care of equipment 29
28. EQUIPMENT FURNISHED.
The items listed below are furnished and will be found in the tool box
on the left running board or the tool box on the platform directly behind
the driver's seat unless otherwise noted:
Bag, tool
Box, tool, assembly
Can, oil
Chain, tire, assembly
Crank, starting
Gun, lubrication extension
Gun, lubrication, type C
Hammer, ball peen, 16-oz.
Handle, auto jack
Handle, wheel bearing nut
wrench
Handle, wheel wrench
Iron, tire changing
Jack, auto assembly
Padlock & chain assembly (2)
Pliers, combination, 16-in.
Screwdriver, /^-in.
Screwdriver, Vi-in.
Screwdriver, iVin.
Screwdriver, 6-in.
Wrench, adjustable, 11-in.
Wrench, open-end, adjust-
able, 8-in. (Crescent type)
Wrench, double, open-end,
3/s x iV-in.
Vi x Jg-in.
A * iHn.
s/s x ff-in.
3/4 x %-in.
Wrench, spark plug
Wrench, wheel
Wrench, wheel bearing nut
29. CARE OF EQUIPMENT.
An accurate record of all tools and accessories should be kept in order
that their location and condition may be known at all times. Items which
have been lost or rendered unserviceable should be replaced immediately.
Clean all tools and equipment, condition (if necessary), and treat against
rust or deterioration, before returning them to their location.
34
TM 9-765
30
Section Vl|l
OPERATIONS UNDER UNUSUAL CONDITIONS
Paragraph
Cold weather operation 30
High temperature operation 30A
30. COLD WEATHER OPERATION.
a. The operation and maintenance of automotive vehicles at low
temperatures involve factors which do not exist at normal tempera-
tures. Operators and maintenance personnel must spend more time in
protective maintenance. Failure to give this extra service will result in
actual damage, unnecessary and untold expenses, and also failure to
start.
b. "Low temperatures" have been divided into 2 ranges: 10 F to
30 F, and below 30 F. Engine and lubricants undergo changes in
physical properties below 30 F. In many cases, accessories, equipment
for supplying heat to engine, fuel and intake air are required.
c. The following is a list of things that the operator should be
familiar with before operating a vehicle in cold weather.
(1) GASOLINE. The formation of ice crystals from small quantities
of water in the fuel sometimes causes considerable trouble. The follow-
ing precautions should be followed to keep water out of the fuel tank:
(a) Strain gasoline through a suitable strainer. CAUTION: a positive
metallic contact must be maintained between the fuel container and
gasoline tank unless fuel tank and container are independently
grounded.
(b) Keep fuel tank as full as possible.
(c) Add Vz pint of denatured alcohol to a tank of gasoline to absorb
moisture that might condense.
(d) Store gasoline in clean drums.
(e) Never pump gasoline drums dry: allow about 4 inches of fuel to
remain.
(2) CRANKCASE OIL. Engine lubrication at temperature above 10 F
is covered in section IV of this manual and in the lubrication guide. For
temperatures below 10 F, one of the following measures must be
taken according to facilities available:
35
TM 9-765
30
(a) Keep vehicle in heated inclosure, if possible, when it is not being
operated.
(b) When the engine is stopped, drain the crankcase oil while it is
still hot and store it in a warm place until vehicle is to be operated
again. If a warm place is not available, heat the oil before putting it
in the crankcase. (Do not get the oil too hot. Heat only to a point where
the bare hand can be inserted without burning.) TAG THE VEHICLE
IN A CONSPICUOUS PLACE IN THE CAB TO WARN PERSON-
NEL THAT THE CRANKCASE IS EMPTY.
(c) Cover the engine with a tarpaulin. About three hours before the
engine is to be started place fire pots under the tarpaulin. A Van Prag,
Primus type, or other types of blow torches or kerosene lanterns may be
used. With due consideration for fire hazards involved, the flame may
be applied direct to the oil pan.
(d) Dilute crankcase oil with gasoline. The table below shows the
quantities of diluent to be added to the oil prescribed on the lubrica-
tion guides for use at 10 F. The quantities of diluents will form mix-
tures for satisfactory starting at temperatures indicated.
-10 F to- 30 F
Below - 30 F
Gasoline
Vi qt to each 4Vi qt of engine oil
1 qt to each
5 qt of
engine oil
1 When the crankcase oil is first diluted, turn the engine over sev-
eral times to mix oil and diluent thoroughly.
2 Check oil level frequently.
(3) COOLING WATER.
(a) Ethylene glycol (Prestone) is prescribed for use as antifreeze
solution. If ethylene glycol is not available, other materials may be used.
The following table gives three permissible materials and the quantity
to be added to prevent freezing at indicated temperatures.
36
TM 9-765
30
Freezing
Pints
Pints
Pints
Point
Ethylene Glycol
Glycerine
Denatured
(Prestone)
Grade A, U.S.P.
Alcohol
Per gallon of
System Capacity
Per gallon of
System Capacity
Per gallon of
System Capacity
10 F
21/a
OF
2Va
3Va
-10F
3Va
3Va
-20F
31/a
-30 F
-40 F
41/a
51/a
-50F
41/2
-60 F
61/2
-70F
(b) Precautions.
1 Do not use alcohol if other materials are available.
2 Flush out the radiator and cylinder head separately before adding
antifreeze material.
3 Do not mix antifreeze solutions.
4 Check cooling system for leaks.
5 If hot water heater is added to cooling system, add about one
gallon to the original volume of the cooling system.
6 Check thermostat.
7 Use radiator cover to accelerate and maintain engine operating
temperatures.
8 Check adjustment and weakness of fan belt. Replace rubber fan
belt with fiber, leather or synthetic belts below 20 F.
9 Make sure that water pump is in good operating condition.
30
(d) Check generator, starter brushes, commutators and bearings. See
that the commutators and brushes are clean.
(e) Be sure that no heavy grease or dirt is on the starter throwout
mechanism.
(5) GEAR LUBRICANTS.
Below 15 F dilute lubricants prescribed for use at 10 F with
10 percent gasoline. If circumstances preclude dilution of lubricants,
heat gear cases with a blowtorch. Play the torch lightly under the entire
gear case; do not concentrate the heat in one spot.
(6) CHASSIS AND OTHER LUBRICANTS.
(a) Chassis, wheel-bearing, and other lubricants prescribed for use
at 10 F will furnish satisfactory lubrication as low as 30 F. For
sustained temperatures below 30 F use grease comparable to
GREASE, lubricating, special, or GREASE, O. D. No. 00. Use OIL,
engine, crankcase grade, in steering gear housing.
(b) Commercial brake and shock absorber fluids remain fluid at
temperatures encountered.
(7) SPECIAL OPERATING PRECAUTIONS.
(a) Full choke is necessary to secure the air-fuel ratio required for
cold weather starting. Check the butterfly valve to see that it closes
all the way and otherwise functions properly.
(b) Check fuel pump.
(c) Below +10 F remove oil from the air cleaners. Below 30 F
remove the air cleaner.
(d) Inspect vehicle frequently.
(e) Remove or bypass oil filters at temperatures below 30 F.
(i) Disconnect oil-lubricated speedometer cables at the drive end
for operating vehicles at temperatures of below 30 F.
(g) Remove and clean sediment bulb, strainer, etc., in the fuel sys-
tem at frequent intervals.
(h) Retune engine frequently.
(i) Before starting the engine pull the choke all the way out and,
leave it partially pulled out until the engine has warmed up. Turn the
38
TM 9-765
30-30a
engine as rapidly as possible with the starter and release starting pedal
as soon as the engine fires. After the engine has started, idle it until it
has warmed up sufficiently to run smoothly. Do not race the engine
immediately after starting.
(j) To stop the engine, first increase the engine speed and then turn
off the ignition and release the throttle at the same time.
d. Cold Weather Accessories. The following list of cold weather ac-
cessories is given only as a suggestion and may be employed at the
discretion of officers in charge of the materiel.
(1) Tarpaulins, tents, or collapsible sheds are useful for covering
vehicles, particularly the engines.
(2 ) Fire pots, Primus type, or Van Prag blowtorches, ordinary blow-
torches, oil stoves, or kerosene lanterns can be used for heating vehicles.
(3) Extra batteries and facilities for changing batteries quickly are
aids in starting.
(4) Steel drums and suitable metal stands are useful for heating
crankcase oil.
(5) Insulation of the fuel line will help prevent ice formation inside
the line.
(6) Small quantities of denatured alcohol, about one-half pint to a
tank of fuel, will reduce difficulties from water in gasoline.
(7) Radiator covers can be improvised locally and help to keep the
engine running at normal temperatures.
30a. HIGH TEMPERATURE OPERATION.
To prevent overheating, the following things should be checked:
a. The cooling system should be kept clean and full.
b. The fins in the radiator should be kept free from bugs and foreign
material that might affect free circulation of air.
c. The fan belt should be properly adjusted.
d. A gear reduction should never be used which requires the engine
to labor at low engine speeds as this will cause overheating due to lack of
sufficient water and air circulation.
e. Under severe conditions it may be advisable to remove the hood
side panek, providing less restriction to the flow of air.
f. Watch the temperature indicator, and if the needle goes into the
red band investigate the cause.
39
TM 9-765
31-33
>
Section IX
MATERIEL AFFECTED BY GAS
Paragraph
Protective measures 31
Cleaning 32
Decontamination 33
Special precautions for automotive materiel 34
31. PROTECTIVE MEASURES.
a. When materiel is in constant danger of gas attack, unpainted metal
parts will be lightly coated with engine oil. Instruments are included
among the items to be protected by oil from chemical clouds or chemical
shells, but ammunition is excluded. Care will be taken that the oil does
not touch the optical parts of instruments or leather or canvas fittings.
Materiel not in use will be protected with covers as far as possible.
Ammunition will be kept in sealed containers.
b. Ordinary fabrics offer practically no protection against mustard
gas or lewisite. Rubber and oilcloth, for example, will be penetrated
within a short time. The longer the period during which they are ex-
posed, the greater the danger of wearing these articles. Rubber boots
worn in an area contaminated with mustard gas may offer a grave danger
to men who wear them several days after the bombardment. Impermeable
clothing will resist penetration more than an hour, but should not be
worn longer than this.
32. CLEANING.
a. All unpainted metal parts of materiel that have been exposed to
any gas except mustard and lewisite must be cleaned as soon as possible
with SOLVENT, dry cleaning, or ALCOHOL, denatured, and wiped dry.
All parts should then be coated with OIL, engine.
b. Ammunition which has been exposed to gas must be thoroughly
cleaned before it can be fired. To clean ammunition use AGENT, decon-
taminating, noncorrosive, or if this is not available, strong soap and cool
water. After cleaning, wipe all ammunition dry with clean rags. NOTE:
Do not use dry powdered AGENT, decontaminating (chloride of lime),
as flaming occurs through the use of chloride of lime on liquid mustard.
33. DECONTAMINATION.
For the removal of liquid chemicals (mustard, lewisite, etc.) from
materiel, the following steps should be taken:
40
TM 9-765
33
MATERIEL AFFECTED BY GAS
a. Protective Measures.
(1) For all of these operations a complete suit of impermeable cloth-
ing and a service gas mask will be worn. Immediately after removal of the
suit, a thorough bath with soap and water (preferably hot) must be taken.
If any skin areas have come in contact with mustard, if even a very small
drop of mustard gets into the eye, or if the vapor of mustard has been
inhaled, it is imperative that complete first-aid measures be given within
20 to 30 minutes after exposure. First-aid instructions are given in TM
9-850 and FM 21-40.
(2) Garments exposed to mustard will be decontaminated. If the
impermeable clothing has been exposed to vapor only, it may be decon-
taminated by hanging in the open air, preferably in sunlight for several
days. It may also be cleaned by steaming for 2 hours. If the impermeable
clothing has been contaminated with liquid mustard, steaming for 6 to 8
hours will be required. Various kinds of steaming devices can be impro-
vised from materials available in the field.
b. Procedure.
(1) Commence by freeing materiel of dirt through the use of sticks,
rags, etc., which must be burned or buried immediately after this
operation.
(2) If the surface of the materiel is coated with grease or heavy oil,
this grease or oil should be removed before decontamination is begun;
SOLVENT, dry cleaning, or other available solvents for oil should be
used with rags attached to ends of sticks.
(3) Decontaminate the painted surfaces of the materiel with bleach-
ing solution made by mixing one part AGENT, decontaminating (chloride
of lime), with one part water. This solution should be swabbed over all
surfaces. Wash off thoroughly with water, then dry and oil all surfaces.
(4) All unpainted metal parts and instruments exposed to mustard or
lewisite must be decontaminated with AGENT, decontaminating, non-
corrosive, mixed one part solid to fifteen parts solvent (ACETYLENE
TETRACHLORIDE). If this is not available, use warm water and soap.
Bleaching solution must not be used, because of its corrosive action.
Instrument lenses may be cleaned only with PAPER, lens, tissue, using a
small amount of ALCOHOL, ethyl. Coat all metal surfaces lightly with
OIL, engine.
(5) In the event AGENT, decontaminating (chloride of lime), is not
available, materiel may be temporarily cleaned with large volumes of hot
water. However, mustard lying in joints or in leather or canvas webbing
41
IIYI
33-34
is not removed by this procedure and will remain a constant source of
danger until the materiel can be properly decontaminated. All mustard
washed from materiel in this manner lies unchanged on the ground, neces-
sitating that the contaminated area be plainly marked with warning signs
before abandonment.
(6) The cleaning or decontaminating of materiel contaminated with
lewisite will wash arsenic compounds into the soil, poisoning many water
supplies in the locality for either men or animals.
( 7 ) Leather or canvas webbing that has been contaminated should be
scrubbed thoroughly with bleaching solution. In this event this treatment
is insufficient; it may be necessary to burn or bury such materiel.
(8) Detailed information on decontamination is contained in FM
21-40, TM 9-850, and TC 38, 1941, Decontamination.
34. SPECIAL PRECAUTIONS FOR AUTOMOTIVE MATERIEL.
a. When vehicles have been subjected to gas attack with the engine
running, the air cleaner should be serviced by removing the oil, flushing
with SOLVENT, dry cleaning, and refilling with the proper grade of oil.
b. Instrument panels should be cleaned in the same manner as out-
lined for instruments.
c. Contaminated seat cushions will be discarded.
d. Washing the compartments thoroughly with bleaching solution is
the most that can be done in the field. Operators should constantly be on
the alert, when running under conditions of high temperatures, for slow
vaporization of the mustard or lewisite.
e. Exterior surfaces of vehicles will be decontaminated with bleaching
solution. Repainting may be necessary after this operation.
42
f 1 T~f U
35-37
PART TWOORGANIZATION MAINTENANCE
Section X
SCOPE OF MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS
Paragraph
Scope 35
Definition of terms 36
Allocation of repair 37
35. SCOPE.
The scope of maintenance and repairs by the crew and other units of
the using arm is determined by the ease with which the project can be
accomplished, the amount of time available, the nature of the terrain,
weather conditions, temperatures, concealment, shelter, proximity to
hostile fire, the equipment available, and the skill of the personnel. All of
these are variable and no exact system of procedure can be prescribed.
36. DEFINITION OF TERMS.
The definitions given below are included in order that the operation
name may be correctly interpreted by those doing the work.
a. Service consists of cleaning, lubricating, tightening bolts and
nuts, and making external adjustments of subassemblies or assemblies
and controls.
b. Repair consists of making repairs to, or replacement of a part, sub-
assembly or assembly that can be accomplished without completely dis-
assembling the subassembly or assembly, and does not require heavy
welding or riveting, machining, fitting, and/or alining.
c. Replace consists of removing the part, subassembly or assembly
from the vehicle and replacing it with a new or reconditioned or rebuilt
part, subassembly or assembly, whichever the case may be.
d. Rebuild consists of completely reconditioning and placing in
serviceable condition any unserviceable part, subassembly or assembly
of the motor vehicle including welding, riveting, machining, fitting,
alining, assembling and testing.
37. ALLOCATION OF REPAIR.
The operations herein may be performed by personnel of the using
arms without supervision of ordnance maintenance personnel. Additional
and more complicated maintenance operations (removal and reinstalla-
tion of the engine, transmission, and front axle group assemblies) may
also be accomplished by the using arms, provided proper authority is
received from ordnance maintenance personnel before the work is started.
FRONT AXLE
AlinementAdjust for toe-in
Axle shaftReplace
43
TM 9-765
37
REAR AXLE
Axle shaftReplace
Differential (3rd member) assemblyReplace
BODY
BowsReplace
FendersReplace
Running boardsReplace
SeatsReplace
TopReplace
WindshieldsReplace assemblies
WipersReplace
BRAKES
HydrovacReplace assembly
BrakesAdjust; replace lines
Brake cylindersReplace assembly
Master cylinderReplace assembly
ShoesReplace assembly
CLUTCH
ClutchAdjust
ClutchReplace assembly
COOLING SYSTEM
Fan beltAdjust or replace
Fan and water pumpReplace assemblies
Hose and pipeReplace
RadiatorClean, flush, or replace
ThermostatReplace
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
BatteryReplace, charge and service
CablesReplace assemblies
Coils and condensersReplace assemblies
DistributorReplace assembly; replace and adjust points
GeneratorReplace assembly
Horn and relayReplace assemblies
LightsAdjust or replace assemblies
RegulatorReplace assembly
Spark plugsReplace
StarterReplace assembly
SwitchesReplace assemblies
ENGINE
GasketsReplace (carburetor, cylinder head, fuel pump, manifolds, oil
pan, valve cover, water pump)
44
TM 9-765
37
Motor tune-up
Valve adjustment
EXHAUST SYSTEM
ManifoldsReplace assemblies
MufflerReplace assembly
PipesReplace
FUEL SYSTEM
Air cleanerClean or replace assembly
CarburetorReplace assembly
FilterClean or replace assembly
LinesRepair or replace
PumpReplace assembly
TanksClean or replace assemblies
INSTRUMENTS
GagesReplace assemblies
MetersReplace assemblies
LUBRICATION SYSTEM
FilterReplace cartridge
LinesReplace
Oil panClean or replace
Oil pump screenClean or replace assembly
SHOCK ABSORBERS AND SPRINGS
Center and shackle boltsReplace
Shock absorbersService and replace assembly; replace linkage
SpringsAdjust or replace assemblies
STEERING GEAR
Steering gearAdjust or replace assembly
Steering connecting rodAdjust or replace assembly
Tie rodAdjust or replace assembly
TRANSMISSION
Shift leversReplace
Shift lever coverReplace
WHEELS
BearingsAdjust and replace
Grease retainersReplace
Tires and tubesReplace
WheelsReplace
MISCELLANEOUS
Cleaning
Lubricating
Painting
Tire chainsRepair
45
46
01
37
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TM 9-765
TM 9-765
37
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TM 9-765
38-39
Section XI
FRONT AXLE
Paragraph
Description 38
Trouble shooting 39
Maintenance and adjustments. 40
Unit replacement :. 41
38. DESCRIPTION.
The front axle assembly is a front wheel driving unit, consisting of
a banjo-type housing, on which there is provision for mounting spe-
cially designed steering knuckles and a conventional type differential.
The front wheels are driven by axle shafts equipped with constant
velocity type universal joints which are enclosed in the steering knuckle
support housing.
39. TROUBLE SHOOTING.
Symptom
a. Hard Steering.
(1) Lack of lubrication.
(2) Steering gear out of ad-
justment (loose or tight).
(3) Improper toe-in.
(4) Improper tire pressure.
(5) Bent frame.
(6) Excessive caster.
(7) Shackle bolts too tight.
b. Lubricant Leaks.
(1) Leaks at steering knuckle
support.
(2) Leaks at differential.
Probable remedy
(1) Lubricate tie rod ends,
steering gear and steering
connecting rod.
(2) Readjust (see paragraph
161).
(3) Adjust at tie rod end.
(4) Inflate both front and
rear tires to 55 pounds.
(5) Report to higher author-
ity.
ity.
(7) Readjust.
ity.
(2) Replace carrier gasket
48
TM 9-765
39-40
FRONT AXLE
Symptom
e. Shimmy.
(1) Steering knuckle arm
bushings loose or worn.
(2) Tie rod loose.
(3) Insufficient toe-in.
(4) Improper tire inflation.
(5) Front wheel bearings
loose.
(6) Steering knuckle support
trunnion bearings loose.
(7) Steering gear loose.
(8) Improper caster.
(9) Spring set.
d. Wandering.
(1) Front wheel bearings out
of adjustment.
(2) Bent axle.
(3) Tight steering gear.
(4) Spring center bolt sheared
and axle shifted.
e. Noisy Differential.
(1) Gears or bearings need re-
placement.
Probable remedy
(1) Readjust or report if they
need replacement.
(2) Tighten or replace worn
parts.
(3) Readjust
(4) Inflate to recommended
pressure.
(5) Adjust
(6) Adjust to a load of 4Vi
to 6 pounds.
(7) Adjust.
(8) Report.
(9) Report.
(1) Readjust.
(2) Report.
<3) Readjust
(4) Replace center bolt.
(5) Adjust.
ity.
40. MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS,
a. Axle Shaft Replacement.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Chisel, cold
Clamp, wheel cylinder, J-718-C
(KM)
Hammer
Jack, 41-J-73-5
Pliers, brake spring, 41-P-1579
Wrench, front wheel nut, J-1663
(KM)
Wrench, socket, %-in.
Wrench, wheel stud nut
(2) REMOVE DRIVE FLANGE. Refer to paragraph 174 a (2).
49
40
(3) REMOVE HUB. Remove the adjusting nut, roller bearing and
cone assembly; then remove the wheel hub.
(4) REMOVE RETRACTING SPRING. Install the wheel cylinder clamp
(fig. 14) and remove the brake shoe retracting spring, using brake spring
pliers.
CLAMP
RA PD 32214
Figure 14Brake Wheel Cylinder Clamp
(5) REMOVE ANCHOR PLATE. Using s/s-inch wrench or socket,
remove the six cap screws that attach the brake shoe anchor plate to the
steering knuckle. Remove the anchor plate.
(6) REMOVE ANCHOR PLATE SPACER. With a s/s-inch socket wrench,
remove the 12 cap screws which attach the brake shoe anchor plate
spacer, inner oil deflector, brake flange plate and steering knuckle to the
steering knuckle support. Remove the spacer and oil deflector.
(7) REMOVE FLANGE PLATE. Slide the brake flange plate off the
steering knuckle and support it with a piece of wire. This procedure saves
removing the brake line hose and bleeding the brakes after performing
these operations.
(8) REMOVE STEERING KNUCKLE. The steering knuckle can then be
removed from its support.
(9) REMOVE AXLE SHAFT. Pull the axle shaft from the housing, sup-
porting it throughout its full length to prevent damaging the oil seal in
the end of the housing (fig. 15). NOTE: The right and left axle shafts
are not interchangeable as they are of different lengths.
50
TM 9-765
40
FRONT AXLE
(10) INSTALL AXLE SHAFT. Pack the universal joint with LUBRI-
CANT, general purpose, No. 2, according to instructions given in para-
graph 174. Push the axle shaft into the housing, rotating it slightly to pick
up the splines in the differential side gear. NOTE: When installing the
shaft, it must be supported to prevent damaging the oil seal.
RA PD 32215
BRAKE FLANGE PLATE
AXLE SHAFT
Figure 15Front Axle Shaft Removal
(11) INSTALL STEERING KNUCKLE. Lubricate the axle shaft where it
contacts the bushing and thrust washer in the steering knuckle. Using
a new gasket, install the steering knuckle with the keyway at the top.
(12) INSTALL FLANGE PLATE. The brake flange plate, oil deflector
and shoe anchor plate spacer should be installed. Space two of the anchor
support bosses on the spacer equally with reference to the wheel cylinder.
Install the 12 cap screws and washers and tighten them securely.
(13) INSTALL ANCHOR PLATE. Install the brake shoe anchor plate
and bolt it to the spacer. Using the special pliers, replace the brake shoe
retracting spring. Remove the wheel cylinder clamp.
51
TM 9-765
40
(14) INSTALL AND ADJUST BEARINGS. Install the wheel hub and bear-
ings. Adjust the bearings according to instructions given in paragraph
174 of this manual.
b. Tie Rod Replacement and Adjustment.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Wrench, open-end, 3/4-in. Wrench, open-end, 1-in.
(2) REMOVAL. With a 1-inch end wrench, remove tie rod attaching
bolts from the steering arms and remove the tie rod.
(3) INSTALLATION. The tie rod is made with a bend to clear the
differential. The right end is threaded with a coarse thread to screw into
the right tie rod end and left end is threaded with a fine thread for making
toe-in adjustment. When installing the tie rod, loosen the two pinch bolts,
using a 3/4-inch wrench. The end should then be screwed into the right
tie rod end until there is a minimum of Vs-inch clearance between the
lower rib on the differential on the left side and the tie rod on a full left
turn. After checking and setting this clearance, install the retaining
bolt in the right end.
(4) ADJUSTMENT. Adjust the left tie rod end to provide 0-inch to
Vs-inch toe-in, using a toe-in scale for checking. To check toe-in, mark
a fine chalk line at the center of the tread of both tires. Set the two tires
so that the chalk mark is toward the front of the truck on a line with the
center of the wheel. Then carefully measure the distance from the center
of one chalk line to the other. Now revolve the wheels so that the chaUc
lines are facing the back of the car and on center with the wheel. Again
measure the distance between the chalk marks. For the correct toe-in
setting the difference between the measurements obtained should be
between 0-inch and Vs-inch, with the shorter distance, if any, at the front.
If difficulty is experienced in securing proper toe-in, it may be necessary
to disconnect the tie rod from the right steering arm and screw the end
either on or off the tie rod one turn. Then screw the left tie rod end on
or off the rod to secure the proper toe-in. Recheck the four tie rod end
pinch bolts to make certain they are tight.
(5) LOCKING RETAINING BOLT. Install lock nut on the tie rod to
steering arm retaining bolts. Pull down, wrench tight, and back off
one-third to one-half turn. Lock the nut with a cotter pin.
52
TM 9-765
41
FRONT AXLE
41. UNIT REPLACEMENT.
When damaged in the field, the axle assembly should be replaced as
a unit (fig. 16).
RA PD 32216
Figure 16Front Axle Assembly Removal
Wrench, open-end or box,
IS-in.
Wrench, wheel stud
a. Tools Required:
Jack, 41-5-73-5
Jacks, stand, two
Screwdriver, wide
Wrench, open-end, TVin.
Wrenches, open-end or box,
'%-in. and iVm-
b. Removal.
(1) Set unit on a level spot and loosen the six wheel stud nuts on each
wheel.
(2) Place jacks under the frame just back of each wheel and lift up
front end of vehicle.
53
41
IITI 7-/ U J
(3) Split the front universal joint by removing the four U bolt
retaining nuts (fig. 105) with a Tnff-inch end wrench, and removing the two
U bolts. Tape the two trunnion bearings in place to prevent them from
falling off the trunnion yoke. This will save time in reassembly. Slide the
U joint back on its slip joint and lower the end of the drive shaft assembly
to the floor.
(4) Disconnect the drag link from the third arm by unscrewing the
adjusting plug in the end of the link with a heavy, wide screwdriver.
(5) Disconnect brake lines by removing the connection at the frame
bracket with T7K-inch wrench. Disconnect brake line spring from the
shock absorber link.
(6) Support the axle assembly at the differential with a jack.
(7) Remove the four retaining nuts from the spring U bolts with a
] if-inch wrench. Disconnect shock absorber attaching plate from the
U bolts and move shock absorber link up out of the way.
(8) Remove the jack, carefully allowing the heavy side of the axle
assembly to settle to the bottom and roll the entire axle and wheel as-
sembly out from under the truck.
(9) Block the axle up and remove the tire and wheel assemblies.
c. Installation.
(1) Replace the axle assembly in reverse order to removal.
(2) Check and adjust toe-in as outlined in this section.
(3) It will be necessary to bleed all brake wheel cylinders after
installing a new assembly. Refer to paragraph 56 for this operation.
54
TM 9-765
42-43
REAR AXLE
Section XII
REAR AXLE
Paragraph
Description 42
Trouble shooting 43
Maintenance and adjustment 44
Unit replacement 45
42. DESCRIPTION.
The rear axle is of the single-reduction, full floating, hypoid type with
a straddle mounted pinion gear and a high traction type differential.
Being of the full floating type, the axle shafts can be removed with the
weight of the vehicle on its wheels.
43. TROUBLESHOOTING.
Symptom
a. Axle Noises.
(1) Wheel bearings.
(2) Noisy on drive.
(3) Axle noisy on coast.
b. Backlash.
(1) Loose axle shaft flange.
(2) Excessive clearance at
axle shaft splines.
(3) Excessive pinion and ring
. gear clearance.
c. Grease Leakage.
(1) Grease on brake linings.
Probable remedy
(1) Adjust bearings. If neces-
sary to replace, report to
higher authority.
(2) Ring gear and pinion
adjusted too tight. Re-
port to higher authority.
(3) Report to higher au-
thority.
(1) Replace terneplate gas-
ket. Tighten and lock cap
screws.
(2) Replace worn differen-
tial, gears, worn shafts or
both.
ity.
(1) Inspect and replace oil
seal if necessary.
TM 9-765
43-44
(2) At axle shaft flange. (2) Inspect and replace oil
seal if necessary. Check
face of flange for rough-
ness.
44. MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT.
a. Axle Shaft Replacement.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Chisel, cold Hammer
Wrench, socket, %-in.
(2) With a cold chisel and hammer bend the lugs of the lock plate
away from the bolt heads.
(3) Remove the eight cap screws with a 3/i-inch socket or end wrench.
Remove lock plate.
(4) Install two of the cap screws in the threaded holes provided in the
axle shaft flange. By turning these cap screws alternately, the axle shaft
may be removed (fig. 17). Remove the terneplate gasket.
(5) To replace, first install a new terneplate gasket on the axle shaft
and push the shaft into place, turning it slightly to pick up the splines
in the differential side gears.
(6) Using a new lock plate install the eight cap screws in the flange
and, tightening them alternately, draw them up tight. Then bend the
tangs of the lock plate against the heads of the cap screws.
b. Third Member (Differential) Replacement.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Wrench, TVin. Wrench, %-in.
(2) Place vehicle on level ground and set the brakes.
(3) Drain the differential.
(4) Remove the axle shaft cap screws and pull out the shafts far
enough to clear the differential side bearings.
(5) Split the rear U joint and lower the propeller shaft to the floor.
The trunnion bearings can be left in place and held with tape (fig. 108).
(6) Remove the cap screws and lock washers that retain the third
member assembly to the banjo housing.
(7) The third member assembly can then be removed by pulling
back and out.
(8) Replacement is the reverse of removal.
56
ju
57
10
44
TM 9-765
REAR AXLE
45
45. UMT REPLACEMENT.
The complete rear axle assembly should be replaced if it becomes
damaged (fig. 18).
a. Tools Required:
Jack, 41-J-73-5 Wrench, open-end, TVin.
Jacks, stand, two Wrench, open-end, {f-in.
Wrench, TVin. Wrench, wheel hub nut
Wrench, s/s-in.
b. Removal.
(1) Set the vehicle on a level spot and loosen the wheel hub nuts.
(2) Raise the rear of the truck and place a stand jack under the
frame on each side. Remove both wheels to provide clearance at the
fenders.
(3) With a TVinch wrench, disconnect the rear U joint and lower the
shaft to the floor. Tape the trunnion bearings in place to keep them
from falling off.
(4) Disconnect the brake line from the master cylinder where it joins
the line running across the axle to the wheel cylinders.
(5) Place the hydraulic jack under the differential, centering the
load.
(6) Using a ^f-inch wrench, remove the eight (four on each side)
spring U bolt attaching nuts. Move the shock absorber link and bracket
up out of the way.
(7) By steadying the load, the assembly can be wheeled out from
under the vehicle.
c. Installation.
(1) A new rear axle assembly may be replaced in reverse order to
removal.
(2) It will be necessary to bleed all brakes after replacing the unit.
58
at
0)
45
iivi
REAR AXLE
IM V-/03
46
Section XIII
BODY
Paragraph
Construction 46
Maintenance 47
Hoist operation 48
Hoist repairs 49
Windshield replacement 50
46. CONSTRUCTION,
a. Basic Body.
(1) The basic body is made up of three sections: the cowl, front floor
and seat riser assembly, and the platform.
(2) The flatface cowl is of all-metal construction, made up of indi-
vidual steel stampings welded and riveted into a complete assembly.
(3) The front floor and seat riser is of all-metal construction. The
seat riser is welded to the floor. A removable front floor board is used to
provide access to chassis units directly below the floor. A removable seat
riser cover is placed on the riser and covers the gas tank which is located
directly below the seats.
(4) The platform, back of the seat riser, is made of oak mounted on
four cross sills. The floor boards are spaced with sufficient clearance
between the boards to take care of normal swelling of the wood due to
moisture. These spaces between the boards are covered with special steel
wear irons to provide a tight platform.
(5) The cowl is bolted to the front floor at each side, and the upper
floor board is then installed. The platform is then bolted to the back
end of the front floor with eight bolts, making a complete floor and
cowl assembly.
(6) The floor and cowl assembly is attached to the frame brackets
by eight bolts on each side. Two of these bolts are at the cowl, two at the
front floor and seat riser, and four in the rear platform. Figures 19, 20, and
21 show the body to frame attaching bolts.
b. Driver's Compartment.
(1) The driver's compartment is covered by a canopy top.
(2) The top frame consists of tubular uprights, the bottom of which
is attached to the back corners of the front platform assembly. Tubular
braces run forward and down,- attaching to the side of the front platform
at the front of the seat riser on each side. Cross bars run between the
two upright supports at the top of the seats and at the top of the uprights.
60
TM 9-765
46
BODY
FRONT SIDE SILL
WASHER
REINFORCEMENT
FRAME
SHIM
BODY BOLT
RA PD 3221*
Figure 19Forward Cowl and Dash Attaching Bolt
FRONT SIDE SILL
WASHER
SHIM
FRAME
RA PD 32220
Figure 20Rear Cowl and Dash Attaching Bolt
61
TM 9-765
46
FILLER
BLOCK
SHIM
PLATFORM
PANEL
BODY BOLT
FRAME
RA PD 32221
Figure 21 -Side Sill Attaching Bolt
(3) The canopy attached to the lower cross bar runs up over the
upper bar and is attached to the windshield frame by 10 lift-the-dot type
fasteners.
(4) The canopy can be rolled up and supported at the lower cross
bar by four straps which are provided.
c. Seats.
(1) Two bucket-type seats with padded arm rests are used.
(2) The seats are attached to the seat riser brackets by two thumb-
screws on each seat.
(3) The driver's seat is adjustable forward and back by removing
the thumbscrews and installing them in any one of the four tapped holes
in the seat brackets.
d. Windshield. The windshield is mounted in brackets attached to
the cowl and dash assembly. When the canopy is not in use, the wind-
shield can be adjusted by hand screws at the lower corners.
e. Body.
(1) One end of a specially formed I beam is rigidly mounted to
the platform back of the driver's compartment. This I beam curves
62
TM 9-765
47-49
BODY
back to form a horizontal hoist support. Braces attached at the back
corners of the platform support the I beam at the back of the body.
(2) A three-place seat is mounted on the platform to the right of the
hoist support.
(3) The hoist shown in figure 22 is mounted on the I beam section
and is used for loading bombs on the bomb trailer.
47. MAINTENANCE.
a. Tightening.
(1) The body, like the rest of the vehicle, requires a certain amount
of attention.
(2) The following things should be checked at the end of 1000 miles
of travel and every 2000 miles thereafter.
(3) Check and adjust body to frame bracket bolts.
(4) Tighten cowl sill to platform sill screws.
(5) Tighten platform to sill bolts.
(6) Tighten platform wear iron bolts.
(7) Tighten windshield to adjusting support bolts.
(8) Tighten canopy top support bolts at platform.
b. Lubrication.
(1) The following points should be lubricated with OIL, engine:
(2) Oil cups at each end of hoist drum shaft.
(3) Oil cup on hoist reduction gear.
(4) Hoist ratchet pawl shaft.
(5) Hoist crankshaft (Remove crank gear shaft retainer and lubri-
cate through retainer hole).
(6) Hoist cable pulley shaft.
48. HOIST OPERATION.
a. To unwind the cable from the drum raise the ratchet pawl, pull
back on the brake handle to check the cable from uncoiling on the drum,
then pull the cable out the desired distance to pick up the load. The
capacity of the hoist is two tons.
b. To raise the load, lower the ratchet pawl and release the brake.
The load may now be raised to the desired height by turning the hoist
handle in a clockwise direction. To lower the load, while holding the
hoist handle, raise the ratchet pawl and apply the brake. The load may
now be lowered by turning the hoist handle in a counterclockwise direc-
tion.
49. HOIST REPAIRS.
a. Removal.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Wrench, open-end, iVin. Wrench, open-end, }g-in.
63
64
49
TM 9-765
RA PD 32222
Figure 22Bomb Handling Hoist
TM 9-765
49
BODY
(2) Pull out the cable and with a T^-inch wrench remove the U
bolt cable to drum anchor.
(3) Using a jf-inch wrench remove the two short and two long
mounting bolts.
b. Disassembly.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Pliers Wrench, open-end, {ji -in.
Wrench, open-end, iVin.
(2) Unwind and disconnect the cable from the drum. Use ^-inch
open-end wrench to loosen U clamp.
(3) Remove cotter pin from crank gear shaft and remove retainer
and shaft.
(4) Remove cotter pin from reduction gear retainer; remove the
retainer and slide the reduction gear out of its bearing.
(5) Using a jf-inch wrench remove the nuts from the through bolts
and remove the support brackets from the drum.
(6) Remove the brake shoe and ratchet pawl pivot pin.
(7) Figure 23 shows an exploded view of the hoist assembly parts.
c. Inspection.
(1) Wash all parts in clean SOLVENT, dry cleaning.
(2) Inspect the gears for worn, broken, chipped or cracked teeth.
(3) Inspect shafts and bearings for wear or scoring.
(4) Check condition of brake lining.
(5) Any worn or damaged parts should be replaced.
d. Reassembly.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Pliers, combination, 6-in. Wrench, open-end, TVin.
Wrench, open-end, TVm-
(2) Assemble the brake lever, brake shoe and ratchet pawl to the
support bracket.
(3) Lubricate with OIL, engine, seasonal grade, and install the pivot
pin and lock it in place with cotter pin.
(4) Assemble the hoist drum to the support brackets, install the
through bolts, and with a {j-inch wrench tighten the nuts securely.
(5 ) Lubricate the drum bearings with OIL, engine, seasonal grade.
(6) Lubricate the reduction gear shaft with OIL, engine, seasonal
grade and assemble it to the support bracket. .
(7) Install the reduction gear retainer and lock it in place with a
cotter pin.
65
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49
TM 9-765
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TM 9-765
TM 9-765
49-50
(8) Lubricate crank gear shaft with oil, engine, seasonal grade and
install it to the support bracket. Install retainer and lock it in place with
a cotter pin.
(9) Reassemble hoist to support and tighten mounting bolts with
IJ-inch wrench.
(10) Using a TVinch wrench install U clamp which anchors cable
to drum.
(11) Lubricate cable and wind it on the drum.
50. WINDSHIELD REPLACEMENT.
a. Assembly Removal.
(1) TOOL REQUIRED:
Wrench, open-end, Vi-in.
(2 ) Unfasten the canopy at windshield top.
(3) Disconnect the windshield wiper hose at the left side of wind-
shield.
(4) Remove the windshield hand adjusting screws and flat washers
on each side.
(5) Using a Vi-inch end wrench remove the three bolts which attach
one of the windshield hinge brackets to the windshield support.
(6) Remove the windshield assembly.
b. Windshield Class Removal.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Screwdriver Wrench, open-end, T7j-in.
(2) Disconnect the windshield wiper motor hose from the suction
pipe.
(3) SUCTION PIPE. Remove the screws which attach the suction pipe
mounting clips to the windshield frame.
(4) Using a T75-inch, open-end wrench remove the hexagon head
bolts on each side of the windshield frame which retain the frame
header.
(5) Remove the header.
(6) Remove glass from frame.
(7) Clean the inside of windshield frame to remove all rust.
c. Windshield Class Installation.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Screwdriver Wrench, open-end, T7j-in.
(2 ) Place a piece of channel filler around the edge of the windshield
glass with the soapstone side out.
(3) At each corner, pinch the surplus material together and cut
surplus material off. This provides a smooth joint.
68
TM 9-765
50
BODY
(4) Brush the inside of frame channel freely with OIL, engine, SAE
10. This will enable the channel filler to slip freely into place.
(5) Push the glass with filler into the channel until it is firmly seated.
(6) Install windshield frame header and retaining bolts.
(7) Trim off the edges of the filler with a sharp knife.
(8) After the glass is in place, the oil softens the filler, causing it to
swell, thereby making a watertight seal. It takes approximately 24
hours for the oil to expand the filler; therefore, waterleak tests should
not be made until this expansion has taken place.
(9) Using a screwdriver, assemble suction pipe, wiper motor hoses,
and retaining clip screws.
d. Windshield Assembly Installation.
(1) TOOL REQUIRED:
Wrench, open-end, V'z-in.
(2) Place the windshield assembly in the windshield frame.
(3) Place the windshield hinge bracket that was removed in dis-
assembly in position and install the three bolts; using a Vz-inch open-
end wrench tighten bolts.
(4) Replace the windshield hand adjusting screws and washers.
(5) Connect the windshield wiper hose at left side of windshield.
(6) Pull canopy into place and fasten to windshield header.
TM 9-765
51-52
Section XIV
BRAKE SYSTEM
Paragraph
Functioning " 52
Trouble shooting 53
Brake adjustment 54
Parking brake adjustment 55
Bleeding hydraulic system 56
Hydraulic brake tubing 57
Master cylinder 58
Wheel cylinder 59
Brake shoe replacement 60
Parking brake band replacement 61
Hydrovac booster system 62
Trailer electric brake control 63
The braking system combines hydraulically operated service brakes,
a hydrovac booster system, a mechanically operated parking brake and
electrically controlled trailer brake. In order to understand the opera-
tion of the hydraulic brake system, it is necessary to have a thorough
knowledge of the various parts and their functions and to know what
takes place throughout the system during application and release of the
brakes. The brake construction at the front wheel is shown in figure 24.
52. FUNCTIONING.
Pressure applied to the brake pedal is transmitted from the push
rod to the piston in the master cylinder, then into the pipe lines and into
the wheel cylinders. This pressure forces the pistons in the wheel
cylinders outward, expanding the brake shoes against the drum. As the
pedal is further depressed, higher pressure is built up within the hydraulic
system, causing the brake shoes to exert greater force against the brake
drums. As the pedal is released, the hydraulic pressure is relieved and
the brake shoe retracting springs draw the shoes together, pressing the
wheel cylinder pistons inward and forcing the fluid out of the wheel
cylinders back into the lines toward the master cylinder.
70
TM 9-765
53
BRAKE SYSTEM
PISTONS
WHEEL CYLINDER
ADJUSTING SCREW
BRAKE SHOE
GUIDE
ANCHOR
PLATE
RETRACTING
SPRING
LINK PIN
FLANGE PLATE
ARTICULATING LINKS
FRICTION PIN
AND SPRING
RA PD 32224
Figure 24Brake Construction Front Wheel
Symptom
a. Brake Pedal.
(1) Pedal "spongy."
Air in lines.
b. Brakes Drag.
(1) Mineral oil in system.
Probable remedy
(1) Bleed brakes.
(1) Wash out lines and cyl-
inder and replace rubber
parts.
71
TM 9-765
53
Symptom
(2) Improper toeboard
clearance.
(3) Dirt in master cylinder.
c. One Brake Drags.
(1) Loose wheel bearing.
(2) Weak retractor spring.
(3) Brake shoes adjusted too
close to drum.
Probable remedy
(2) Adjust.
(3) Replace master cylinder.
(1) Adjust.
(2) Replace spring.
(3) Readjust.
d. Necessary to Pump Brake Pedal.
(1) Normal lining wear.
(2) Fluid low in master cyl-
inder.
(3) Air in line.
(1) Brake lining worn out.
Replace shoes.
(2) Fill master cylinder and
bleed brakes.
(3) Bleed brakes.
e. Brakes Uneven.
(1) Oil on lining.
(2) Shoes tight on brake
anchor.
(3) Tires improperly inflated.
(4) Spring center bolt sheared.
(5) Dust between drum and
shoe.
(1) Replace with new shoes.
(2) Free up shoes on anchor.
(3) Inflate tires.
(4) Replace spring center bolt.
(5) Blow out with compressed
air.
f. Excessive Pedal Pressure, Poor Brakes.
(1) Oil on lining.
(2) Full area of lining
contacting drum.
(3) Scored brake drum.
(1) Replace brake shoes,
not (2) Sand shoes so linings con-
tract drum properly.
(3) Turn drum, or replace it
If lining is scored, shoes
should be replaced.
g. Hydrovac Booster Fails to Operate.
(1) Dirty air cleaner.
(2) Vacuum line leaks.
(3) Vacuum valve sticking.
(1) Clean according to para-
graph 62 d.
(2) Find location and correct.
(3) Remove and clean valve.
Replace worn or damaged
parts.
72
TM 9-765
53-54
BRAKE SYSTEM
Symptom
(4) Lack of lubricant in vacu-
um cylinder.
(5) Worn parts in hydrovac
unit.
Probable remedy
(4) Lubricate. See section IV.
(5) Replace unit.
54. BRAKE ADJUSTMENT.
a. Tools Required:
Jack, 41-5-73-5
Screwdriver, SVi-in.
Stands, jack, four
Wrench, open-end, %-in.
(1) The brakes can be adjusted without the removal of the wheels,
as the front brake flange plates have openings with spring snap covers,
through which the adjustment may be reached. The rear brakes are
adjusted by turning an adjusting pinion on the inside of the flange
plate.
(2) Raise the truck and place jack stands front and rear so that all
four wheels rotate freely.
RA PD 32225
Figure 25Adjusting Brakes-Front Wheel
(3) Remove the adjusting hole covers from the front flange plates
and insert a screwdriver through the adjusting hole and engage the
teeth on the adjusting cover of the wheel cylinder (fig. 25).
73
TM 9-765
54
(4) Turn the adjusting cover in a clockwise direction, looking at
the end of the cylinder, until the shoes cause a slight drag on the drum.
RA PD 32226
Figure 26 Adjusting BrakesRear Wheel
(5) Turn the adjusting cover back four notches. Each notch backed
off will be indicated by a faint click of the cover lock spring as the cover
is turned. This backing off of the adjusting cover moves the brake shoe
away from the drum to insure proper running clearance of the shoes in the
drum.
(6) Replace the adjusting hole covers.
(7) To adjust the rear brakes, use a s/s-inch open-end wrench to
turn the adjusting pinion (fig. 26). Turn the pinion in a clockwise direc-
tion until shoe causes a slight drag on the drum.
(8) Turn the adjusting pinion back two-thirds of a turn or four sides
of the hexagon on pinion shaft to provide running clearance.
74
TM 9-765
54-55
BRAKE SYSTEM
b. Toeboard Clearance.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Pliers, 6-in. Wrench, TVin.
(2) Toeboard clearance very seldom needs to be adjusted. The pedal
stop, which is located in the brake main cylinder, is permanent. Before
attempting to adjust toeboard clearance be certain that the pedal returns
to the full released position freely, with no binding, and that the pedal
retracting spring has not lost its tension.
(3) Loosen the check nut on the rear of the clevis on the master cylin-
der push rod, using a T''s-inch wrench.
(4) Remove clevis pin and turn the clevis attached to the master
cylinder push rod (fig. 27), in the proper direction to secure Vi-inch
toeboard clearance, measurement being taken between pedal arm and
underside of toe-pan.
(5) Tighten the check nut against the clevis.
55. PARKING BRAKE ADJUSTMENT.
a. Tools Required:
Gage, clearance Wrench, open-end, fipin.
Pliers, 6-in. Wrench, open-end, s/s-in.
1>. Procedure.
(1) The parking brake adjustment should be checked each time the
hydraulic service brakes are adjusted.
(2 ) Set hand brake lever in fully released position, then detach pull-
rod (3) (fig. 28).
(3) Remove rear anchor screw lock wire at (1) and turn the adjust-
ing screw to secure 0.010-inch to 0.015-inch clearance between the brake
band and drum underneath brake anchor.
(4) Lock the anchor adjusting screw with a lock wire.
(5) Loosen lower shoe adjustment lock nut (6) on figure 28, using
T7y-inch open-end wrench.
(6) Turn the adjusting screw (7) to secure 0.020-inch between the
lower end of the band and drum. Tighten adjusting screw lock nut (6).
75
76
55
TM 9-765
TM 9-765
55-56
BRAKE SYSTEM
(7) With a s/s-inch open-end wrench loosen lock nut on large adjust-
ing bolt and back it off until it is free of the adjusting nut. See No. 10 on
figure 28.
(8) Turn adjusting nut on adjusting bolt (5) to secure 0.020-inch
clearance between upper end of band and the drum. Then tighten the
lock nut securely while holding the adjusting nut to prevent upsetting
adjustment.
(9) Lubricate all of sectional surfaces of the brake control linkage and
anchor bolts with OIL, engine.
56. BLEEDING HYDRAULIC SYSTEM.
a. Tools Required:
Filler, master cylinder, Wrench, open-end, iVin.
41-F-2980 Wrench, open-end, 3/s-in.
Jar, bleeder Wrench, open-end, 7/a-in.
Tube, bleeder, J-747 (KM)
h. The hydraulic brake system must be bled whenever a pipe line
has been disconnected or when a leak has allowed air to enter the sys-
tem. A leak in the system may sometimes be evident through the pres-
ence of a "spongy" brake pedal. Air trapped in the system is compressible
and prevents all pressure applied to the brake pedal from being trans-
mitted to the brake shoes. The system must be ABSOLUTELY free
from air at all times. NOTE: Before bleeding the wheel cylinder lines
on vehicles equipped with the hydrovac booster system, it is first necessary
to bleed the hydrovac unit. This procedure is explained in paragraph 62.
c. After the hydrovac unit has been bled, proceed with bleeding the
wheel cylinder lines. The longest pipe line of the brake system should
be bled first. The proper sequence for bleeding is: left rear, left front,
right rear, and lastly, right front. See bleeding diagram (fig. 40). Dur-
.ing bleeding operations, the master cylinder must be kept at least
half full of hydraulic brake fluid. The master cylinder filler (fig. 29)
automatically maintains the correct fluid level in the master cylinder
during bleeding.
d. Procedure. Carefully clean all dirt from around the master
cylinder filler plug.
(1) Remove filler plug, using a %-inch open-end wrench. Install
adapter and automatic filler. Open automatic valve in the filler.
77
TM 9-765
56
1_ BRAKE ANCHOR
2 BRAKE BAND WITH LINING
3 BRAKE PULL ROD
4 OPERATING CAM
5ADJUSTING BOLT
6 ADJUSTING SCREW LOCK NUTS (LOWER SHOE)
7 ADJUSTING SCREW (LOWER SHOE)
8 SPRINGS (SHOE RELEASE)
9_SPRING (UPPER SHOE ADJUSTING)
10 ADJUSTING BOLT NUTS (UPPER SHOE)
] 1 _ BRAKE DRUM RA PD 32228
Figure 28Parking Brake Construction
78
TM 9-765
56
BRAKE SYSTEM
(2) Remove bleeder valve screw, using yVinch open-end wrench.
Attach bleeder drain (fig. 30), keeping the end of the drain hose below
the surface of the fluid in the jar.
(3) Unscrew bleeder valve in wheel cylinder one-half to three-quar-
ters turn, using 3/s-inch open-end wrench.
(4) Depress the foot pedal by hand, allowing it to return slowly. Con-
tinuing this pumping action forces the fluid through the lines and out at
the bleeder drain, carrying with it any air in the system. When bubbles
cease to appear at the end of the bleeder drain hose shut off the bleeder
valve and remove the drain hose.'
Figure 29-Master Cylinder Filler
(5) Replace and tighten the screw at the end of the bleeder valve.
(6) After bleeding operation has been completed at all wheels, fill
the master cylinder reservoir approximately full, and replace the filler
79
TM 9-765
56-57
plug, using a 7/a-inch open-end wrench. NOTE: Fluid withdrawn in the
bleeding operation should not be used again. Only approved brake fluid
should be used, and never oil.
57. HYDRAULIC BRAKE TUBING.
a. The hydraulic brake tubing is a double layer, flexible steel tubing,
treated to resist corrosion and also to stand up under the high pressures
which are developed when applying the brakes.
(1) The important thing in connection with making up hydraulic
brake pipes is the proper flaring of the ends of the tubing for the compres-
RA PD 32230
Figure 30-Bleeding Wheel Cylinder
sion couplings. Unless the tubing is properly flared, the couplings will leak
and the brake will become ineffective.
(2 ) This safety steel tubing must be double-lap-flared in order to pro-
duce a strong, leak-proof joint.
80
TM 9-765
57
BRAKE SYSTEM
(3) The brake-flaring tool (fig. 31) is used to form the double-lap
flare.
h. Directions.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Cutter, tube, 41-C-2825
Tool, brake tube, flaring,
J-1280 (KM)
Wrench, open-end, {
Wrench, open-end,
TOOL SET
M280(KM)
RA PD 32231
Figure 31 Brake Tube Flaring Tool
(2) Cut the tubing to the desired length, using tube cutter to prevent
flattening the tubing (fig. 32). Square off the end with a fine-cut mill
file, then ream the sharp edges with the reamer blade provided on the
tube cutter. The reamer blade can be seen in figure 32.
81
TM 9-765
57
(3) Place new inverted flared tube nuts on the tubing. Dip end of
tubing to be flared in hydraulic brake fluid. This lubrication results in
CUTTER
S^^jMll
REAMER BLADE
KMO-SA(KM)
RA PD 32232
Figure 32Brake Tube Cutting Tool
a better formation of the flare. Loosen the clamping nuts on the flaring
tool and insert finished end of the tubing in the channel of the die until
it bears against the stop pin (fig. 33).
STOP
PIN
A PD 32233
1-1280-1 (KM)
RA PD 32233
Figure 33Installing Tube to Proper Depth in Tool
(4) Tighten the clamping nuts by hand and place the fixture in a
bench vise. Then tighten down the clamping nuts firmly with a wrench
and remove the stop pin from the die. The tubing is now firmly gripped
in the die and ready for the first flare-forming operation.
82
TM 9-765
57
BRAKE SYSTEM
(5) Using the flare-forming tool (J-1280-2) having the concave
die, insert the forming tool in the die and strike firm blows, using a
one-pound hammer, until the shoulder of the tool contacts the top of
J-1280-2 (KM)
RA PD 32234
Figure 34 First Flare Forming Operation
tt
the die. The cross section drawing (fig. 34) shows the first step in
forming the double-lap flare.
(6) Next, using the flare-forming tool (J-1280-3) having the
46-degree die at its lower end, insert the tool in the die and strike firm
blows, using a one-pound hammer, until the shoulder of the tool con-
tacts the top of the die. The cross section drawing (fig. 35) shows
the second and final forming operation in making a double-lap flare.
J-1280-3 (KM)
RA PD 32235
Figure 35Final Flare Forming Operation
83
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84
57
TM 9-765
TM 9-765
57
BRAKE SYSTEM
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TM 9-765
57-58
c. Brake Hose Replacement.
(1) To allow for frame movement, flexible brake hose is used at
each of the front wheels and also between the main pipe line and the
line leading to the rear wheels. To prevent the brake hose at the front
from contacting the wheel, a clamp is connected onto the hose and a
spring attached from it to the shock absorber link. The composition of
the brake hose is such that it permits a .great amount of flexing action
without destroying the brake fluid seal, thus preventing air leaks or
loss of fluid.
(2) When replacing a brake hose, care must be taken to make
certain that the hose is seating properly in the couplings; otherwise
leaks will cause the brakes to become ineffective. This can be checked
by applying pressure to the brake foot pedal and at the same time
carefully inspecting the surface surrounding the hose joint for any signs
of leaks. If even the smallest of bubbles appears, it will be necessary
to tighten the connection further. If proper seal cannot be obtained
by tightening the fitting, th'en replace the coupling as outlined in para-
graph 57 c.
58. MASTER CYLINDER.
a. Description.
(1) The piston in the master cylinder (fig. 36) receives mechanical
pressure from the push rod and exerts pressure on the fluid in the
lines, building up the hydraulic pressure which moves the wheel cyl-
inder pistons. The primary cup is held against the piston by the piston
return spring, which also retains the return valve against its seat. The
spring maintains a slight pressure in the lines and in the wheel cylin-
ders to prevent the possible entrance of air into the system. The
secondary cup, which is secured to the opposite end of the piston, pre-
vents the leakage of fluid into the rubber boot.
(2) Holes in the piston head allow the fluid to flow from the
annular space around the piston into the space between the primary
cup and the check valve, thereby keeping sufficient fluid in the lines at
all times. The compensating port (15) allows pressure to equalize
between reservoir and cylinder, and must be kept clean and open, as
fluid expands or contracts with temperature changes. Holes in the valve
cage allow the fluid to flow through the cage and around the lip of the
rubber valve cup and out into the lines during brake application. When
the brake is released, the valve is forced off its seat, permitting the
fluid to return to the master cylinder. The push rod assembly is held
in the opposite end of the housing by means of a snap ring. The rubber
86
TM 9-765
58-59
BRAKE SYSTEM
boot that fits around the oush rod and over the end of the housing
prevents dirt or any other foreign matter from entering the master
cylinder.
b. Servicing. The level of the fluid in the master cylinder should be
inspected at least once a month or every 1000 miles. For proper level,
the master cylinder reservoir should be approximately full. Any notice-
able loss indicates a leak in the system which should be located and
stopped.
c. Unit Replacement.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Filler, master cylinder, Wrench, box, s/s-in.
4 l-F-2980 Wrench, open-end, TVin.
Jar, bleeder
Tube, bleeder, J-747 (KM)
(2) The master cylinder assembly should be removed and replaced
as a unit when any part of it is damaged.
(3) Remove clevis pin from master cylinder link to idler lever.
(4) Disconnect brake pipe from master cylinder end plug with a
/ij-inch wrench, and raise end, so fluid cannot run out.
(5) Remove wires from stop light switch.
(6) Remove the two nuts which attach the master cylinder to the
frame bracket, using s/s-inch box wrench.
(7) Install a new assembly, reconnect, and refill with fluid. Bleed
the brake system.
59. WHEEL CYLINDER.
a. The wheel cylinder (fig. 24) contains two pistons, their purpose
being to transmit the pressure evenly to each of the two brake shoes.
The adjusting covers serve two purposes: first, to cover the ends
of the cylinder and prevent the entrance of dirt and foreign matter into
the cylinder; and second, to serve as a means of adjusting the brake
shoes to the proper drum clearance, since they are threaded to receive
the slotted adjusting screws which fit the webs of the brake shoes. .
b. Unit Replacement.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Filler, master cylinder, Stand, jack
41-F-2980 Tube, bleeder, J-747 (KM)
Jack, 41-J-73-5 Wrench, open-end, /ij-in.
Jar, bleeder Wrench, open-end, Vi-in.
Pliers Wrench, open-end, s/s-in.
Screwdriver Wrench, wheel stud nut
87
TM 9-765
59-60
(2) Place the vehicle on a level spot. In order to remove the
hydraulic brake wheel cylinder, the vehicle must be jacked up and
the wheel removed, using wheel stud nut wrench.
(3) Remove brake drum and hub. See paragraph 174a(2)to(7).
(4) Disconnect, lead pipe or hose from the wheel cylinder, using
s/s-inch open-end wrench.
(5) Disconnect brake shoe retracting spring with brake spring pliers.
(6) The two cap screws which hold the cylinder to the brake flange
plate must be removed before the cylinder can be taken from the
flange plate, using a Va-inch open-end wrench.
(7) Install a new wheel cylinder assembly, reconnect and bleed
system.
60. BRAKE SHOE REPLACEMENT.
a. Tools Required:
Clamps, wheel cylinder, Screwdriver, 8-in.
J-718-C (KM) Stands, jack, four
Filler, master cylinder, Tube, bleeder, J-747 (KM)
41-F-2980 Wrench, open-end, fain.
Jack, 41-J-73-5 Wrench, open-end, TVin.
Pliers, 6-in. Wrench, open-end s/s-in.
Pliers, brake spring, Wrench, wheel stud nut
41-P-1579
b. Inspection.
(1) Place vehicle on level spot, jack up vehicle and place on four
jack stands.
(2) Using wheel stud nut wrench, remove stud nuts and take off all
wheels.
(3) Remove drums and hubs. See paragraph 174 a (2) to (7).
(4) After removal of the brake drums and before disassembly of the
shoes from the anchor plate, all linings should be inspected for wear,
improper alinement causing uneven wear, and oil or grease on linings.
(5) If any of the conditions listed in (4) above exist, it will be neces-
sary to replace the shoes.
88
TM 9-765
60
BRAKE SYSTEM
(6) If, in checking the linings, it is noticed that they have the appear-
ance of being glazed, remember that this is a normal condition with the
hard type lining used. Do not use a wire brush or any abrasive on the
lining to destroy this glazed surface as it is essential for proper operation.
c. Brake Shoe Removal.
(1) Satisfactory performance can be obtained by replacing only the
forward shoes when the reverse linings do not show excessive wear. Tests
have shown that in most cases the reverse lining will outlast two sets of
forward linings. This is true of both front and rear wheel brakes. Shoes
should be changed in sets, that is, both forward shoes on front wheels,
or both forward and reverse shoes on front wheels. The same is true on
the rear wheels.
( 2 ) After drums and hubs are removed, install wheel cylinder clamps
(fig. 37) to keep the wheel cylinder pistons in place and prevent leakage
of brake fluid while replacing shoes.
CLAMED
Figure 37-Brake Wheel Cylinder Clamp
(3) Remove brake shoe retracting springs, using special brake spring
pliers.
(4) Remove the brake shoe anchor pin lock and pinone on front
brakes, two on rear.
(5) Remove articulating link friction spring pin lock, pin and spring.
Disassemble articulating links from shoes by removing pin lock and pin.
Figure 38 shows a layout of the front wheel brake parts and figure 39
the rear brake parts.
89
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90
01
60
CO
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TM 9-765
TM 9-765
60
BRAKE SYSTEM
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TM 9-765
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BRAKE SYSTEM
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93
TM 9-765
60-62
d. Installation.
(1) Reassemble articulating links, pins, friction springs and locks.
to new brake shoes and assemble shoes to anchor plate.
(2) Check fit of shoe in the brake shoe guide riveted to the anchor
plate. The shoe should be free without excessive side movement.
(3) Install brake shoe retracting spring and remove wheel cylinder
clamp.
(4) Replace wheels and hubs and adjust the wheel bearings as out-
lined in paragraph 174.
61. PARKING BRAKE BAND REPLACEMENT.
a. Disassembly.
(1) TOOLS SUPPLIED:
Gage, clearance Wrench, open-end, ,Vm-
Pliers, 6-in. Wrench, open-end, s/s-in.
(2) Remove the lock nut, lockwasher, adjusting nut flat washer and
spring from the large adjusting bolt, using a s/s-inch wrench (5) and (10)
(fig. 28).
(3) Remove cotter key and clevis pin from operating cam and adjust-
ing bolt (4) (fig. 28). Remove adjusting bolt and shoe springs.
(4) Remove nuts from lower shoe adjustment screw (6) (fig. 28) and
remove the screw and lower shoe spring, using a ^ -inch open-end wrench.
(5) Remove rear anchor screw lock wire (1) (fig. 28) and remove
the screw. Then slide the band assembly off the anchor.
b. Reassembly.
(1) After replacement, the brake band should be formed as neces-
sary to conform to the shape of the drum.
(2) Reassemble the brake to its mounting and adjust it according
to instructions given in paragraph 55.
62. HYDROVAC BOOSTER SYSTEM.
a. Description. The hydrovac booster system is installed to make
available to the driver a greater pressure on the hydraulic brake system
than he could possibly exert by his foot pressure on the brake pedal. This
greatly increases the driver's ability to stop quickly when driving at high
speeds or when heavily loaded on steep grades. In other words, the hydro-
vac booster system is an auxiliary power unit that applies additional force
94
TM 9-765
62
BRAKE SYSTEM
to the hyraulic brake system. The hydrovac unit is a combined hydraulic
and vacuum booster system, using the vacuum created in the engine intake
manifold as an operating force. It is a self-contained unit and is placed
between the regular master cylinder and the main line leading to the wheel
cylinders. The hydrovac unit is so constructed that in case of engine failure
and consequent loss of vacuum, the hyraulic fluid from the master cylinder
bypasses the hydrovac unit and the brakes will function with the regular
hydraulic system.
li. Bleeding Hydrovac Unit.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Filler, master cylinder Tube, bleeder, J-747 (KM)
Jar, bleeder Wrench, open-end, Vi-in.
(2) To bleed the entire brake system, the hydrovac unit must be bled
at all three bleeder valves before attempting to bleed at the wheel cyl-
inders. The bleeder valves are bled in the order shown in figure 40. After
the hydrovac bleeding process is completed, the wheel cydinders are bled
in accordance with instructions previously given for bleeding brakes.
(3) After bleeding the wheel lines, start the engine and operate the
hydrovac unit several times by depressing the brake pedal. Stop the
engine and again bleed No. 3 bleeder valve on the hydrovac slave cylinder
c. Lubrication. The hydrovac power cylinder should be lubricated
every 20,000 miles or after six months service (whichever occurs first)
with OIL, engine, SAE 10. Remove the pipe plug (using a Vi-inch open-
end wrench) from the cylinder at the relay valve end of the unit and
also the Vs-inch pipe plug at the center plate, and inject two ounces of
OIL, engine, SAE, in each opening. Replace lubrication plugs.
d. Maintenance. The outside of the hydrovac unit should be cleaned
thoroughly and inspected every six months. All hose connection clamps
should be tightened and all pipe fittings and hydraulic connections
checked for looseness. The air cleaner should be removed, disassembled
and cleaned at least twice a year. If the truck is operating under dirty
conditions, the air cleaner should be cleaned more frequently. Remove
the cover screw and remove the cleaning element and wash thoroughly
in SOLVENTS, dry cleaning. Allow to dry, then dip the element in OIL,
engine, light, and let it drain. Clean all dirt from the inside of the air
cleaner housing and reassemble. A layout of the air cleaner parts is
shown in figure 41.
e. Unit Removal.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Screwdriver, 6-in. Wrench, open-end, -Jg-in.
Wrench, open-end, fST-in.
(2) Disconnect at the hydrovac unit the hydraulic brake lines which
lead to the master cylinder and wheel cylinder, using a /B-inch open-
end wrench.
95
96
62
TM 9-765
ii
62
>a
TM 9-765
BRAKE SYSTEM
98
62
TM 9-765
TM 9-765
62-63
BRAKE SYSTEM
(3) Remove the hose connections to the air cleaner and the vacuum
line, using a screwdriver.
(4) Remove the bolts which retain the hydrovac unit to the frame
side rail, using a T'S,-inch open-end wrench. Remove the hydrovac
booster unit (fig. 42).
f. Unit Installation.
(1) Reassemble hydrovac unit to the frame side rail and tighten bolts
and nuts securely.
(2) Connect air cleaner and vacuum line hose connection.
( 3 ) Connect hydraulic lines from master cylinders and wheel cylinder.
(4) Bleed entire hydraulic braking system according to instructions
already given in this section.
g. Vacuum Line Check Valve. The vacuum line check valve is
mounted on the dash in a rubber support fitting. The purpose of this valve
is to trap the vacuum in the hydrovac unit in the event the engine stalls
so that at least one application of the hydrovac braking system be made
after the engine stops. Ordinarily this valve requires no attention; how-
ever, if the valve sticks, it should be disassembled and cleaned or replaced.
The parts are shown in figure 43.
VALVE GASKET VALVE
BODY
RA PD 32243
Figure 43 Hydrovac Vacuum Valve Parts
63. TRAILER-ELECTRIC BRAKE CONTROL.
a. An electric control unit for the trailer-brakes is mounted under the
driver compartment floor boards as shown in figure 44. The control unit is
connected by an adjustable rod clamped to the foot brake pedal pull rod,
so that when the truck foot brakes are applied, the trailer-brakes also are
applied. A stop light switch also is incorporated in this unit which controls
both truck and trailer stop lights according to main light switch position.
99
TM
9-765
63
b. A load control unit mounted on the instrument panel has four posi-
tions for light, medium, medium-heavy, and heavy loads, designated by
the numbers 1, 2, 3 and 4. If the load in the trailer is light, the load control
should be set at No. 1; if it is heavy, it should be set at No. 4. In other
words, the load control should be set in accordance with the weight of the
load in the trailer.
c. Servicing Electric Control Unit. Adjustment of the switch pull
rod should be made as follows:
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Pliers, 6-in. Screwdriver, SVi-in.
Sandpaper, No. 00 Wrench, open-end, fVin.
(2) Remove clevis pin from front clevis at clamp.
(3) Place control unit operating arm in full off position (toward rear).
(4) Adjust clevis so that with operating arm in full off position and
foot brake pedal in released position, clevis pin can be inserted without
altering either the arm or pedal position.
(5) Cotter-pin the clevis pin and tighten clevis lock nut, using a
f J5 -inch open-end wrench. The switch blade and contacts should be cleaned
occasionally with No. 00 sandpaper. Figure 45 shows a view of the con-
trol unit with cover removed.
BRAKE
PEDAL
PULL
ROD
MOUNTING
BRACKET
Figure 44-Electric Trailer Bra KB Adjustment
RA PD 37724
100
TM 9-765
63
BRAKE SYSTEM
STOP LIGHT
SWITCH
CONTROL
OPERATING LEVER
TO STOP
LIGHT SWITCH
SWITCH
CONTACTS
TO TRAILER
CONNECTOR
TO LOAD
CONTROL
SWITCH
RA PD 32245 BLADE
Figure 45Electric Trailer Brake Construction
101
TM 9-765
64-66
Section XV
CLUTCH
Paragraph
Description ...; 64
Operation 65
Trouble shooting 66
Pedal adjustment 67
Overhaul , . 68
64. DESCRIPTION.
The clutch is of the single plate dry disk type, incorporating a spring-
mounted disk hub (fig. 46). The engagement pressure is supplied by
a single diaphragm type spring. The clutch is controlled by the clutch
pedal, connecting link, throwout fork, and throwout bearing.
65. OPERATION.
a. The clutch provides a means of engaging and disengaging the engine
from the transmission and other drive units for starting, shifting gears,
and stopping the vehicle.
b. The driver depresses the clutch pedal, which pulls the pedal end
of the throwout fork backward. This forces the throwout bearing against
the diaphragm spring, forcing the center of the spring forward. This dis-
engages the clutch. The clutch should always be engaged slowly, as quick
engagement places abnormal strain on all parts of the driving unit.
c. Comparatively light pressure is required for clutch disengagement;
therefore, the driver should never drive with his foot on the pedal as this
will cause clutch slippage and premature wear.
Symptom Probable remedy
a. Slipping.
(1) Improper pedal adjust- (1) Adjust pedal free travel,
ment.
(2) Disk oil soaked. (2) Replace clutch disk.
(3) Sticking pressure plate. (3) Check fit of drive lugs on
pressure plate in slots in
cover. (Replace pressure
plate if necessary).
102
66
103
CLUTCH
TM 9-765
TM 9-765
6^-67
Symptom
(4) Weak clutch spring.
(5) Torn disk facings.
b. Crabbing.
(1) Disk linings slightly oily.
(2) Sticking pressure plate.
(3) Abnormally flat glazed
facings.
(4) Loose engine mountings.
c. Rattling.
(1) Weak retracting springs.
(2) Excessive clearance at
pressure plate driving
lugs.
(3 ) Broken clutch disk cushion
springs.
(4) Throwout fork loose on
ball.
Probable remedy
(4) Replace spring and cover
assembly.
(5) Replace disk assembly.
(1) Replace disk.
(2) Check fit of pressure plate
drive lugs in cover slots.
(Replace pressure plate if
necessary).
(3) Replace disk and facings.
(4) Adjust engine mountings
as instructed in paragraph
122.
(1) Replace retracting
springs.
(2) Replace pressure plate or
cover.
(3) Replace clutch disk.
(4) Check ball stud and re-
taining spring. (Replace if
necessary).
67. PEDAL ADJUSTMENT.
a. Tool Required:
b. Normal clutch facing wear permits the clutch pedal to return to a
point closer to the pedal stop. The free travel before the throwout bear-
ing contacts the spring should be between 1 inch and 11A inches.
c. To make this adjustment, loosen the adjusting lock nut (fig. 47)
with s/s-inch wrench and turn adjusting nut until 1 Winch free travel is
obtained. Tighten lock nut.
104
TM 9-765
68
CLUTCH
68. OVERHAUL,
a. Removal.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Handle, ratchet
Pliers, comb., 6-in.
Screwdriver, 6-in.
Socket, iYrin.
Socket, vyin.
CLUTCH
PEDAL
THROW
OUT
FORK
CLUTCH PEDAL
ADJUSTING LINK
Tool, clutch pilot, K-411
(KM)
Wrench, open-end, s/s-in.
Wrench, open-end, 3A-in.
Wrench, socket, Vi-in.
ADJUSTING
NUT
LOCK
NUT
PULL
BACK
SPRING
RA PD 32247
Figure 47Clutch Free Pedal Travel Adjustment
(2) The transmission must be removed before the clutch can be
removed. Refer to transmission removal, section XXXI, of this manual
for detailed instructions.
(3) Remove the throwout bearing from the fork.
(4) Disconnect pull back spring and with a s/s-inch open-end
wrench remove the adjusting link from the clutch fork.
(5) Remove the clutch fork by pressing it away from its mounting
with a screwdriver until the fork snaps loose from the ball.
(6) The spring retainer may be removed from the fork by prying it
out of the groove, one end at a time.
(7) Using a %-inch wrench remove the throwout fork mounting
ball stud from the clutch housing.
105
TM 9-765
68
(8) Install the clutch pilot tool, No. K-411, to support the clutch
during disassembly.
(9) Using a TVinch socket and ratchet handle loosen the nine
clutch to flywheel bolts one turn at a time (to.prevent cover distortion)
until the diaphragm spring pressure is released.
(10) Remove the clutch cover assembly and disk from the clutch
housing.
RETRACTING
SPRING
DRIVING
LUGS
SPECIAL
CAP SCREW
ALIGNMENT MARKS'
RA PD 32248
Figure 48 Refracting Spring Removal
(11) With a ^-inch socket and ratchet handle remove the three
clutch pressure plate retracting springs and remove the pressure plate
from the clutch cover assembly (fig. 48).
(12) The clutch cover, diaphragm spring, and two pivot rings are
riveted together and service< as an assembly.
h. Inspection.
(1) Wash all parts (except the throwout bearing and disk) in SOL-
VENT, cleaning.
(2) Inspect the pressure plate and flywheel for scores or cracks
which would affect normal clutch operation.
(3) Check the three pressure-plate drive lugs for excessive wear or
burs. Check their fit in the cover. They should have from 0.002-inch to
0.008-inch clearance (fig. 48).
106
TM 9-765
68
CLUTCH
(4) Check the throwout bearing for roughness and free fit on the
extension of the transmission main drive gear bearing retainer. This is
& permanently lubricated bearing and must not be washed as the SOL-
VfcNT, cleaning, would cut the lubricant and it would be thrown out into
the clutch.
THROW OUT
FORK
RA PO 32249
Figure 49Checking Fit of Ball in Throwout Fork
(5) Check fit of the ball stud in the throwout fork (fig. 49). This
should be snug without side play.
(6) Inspect the clutch disk for worn, loose or oil-soaked facings, and
for broken disk springs or rivets loose on hub. Check to see that the
splines are not excessively worn and that they move freely on the splines
of the clutch gear. If the splines are worn, the disk should be replaced.
c. Clutch Reassembly.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Handle, ratchet
Pliers, 6-in.
Screwdriver, 6-in.
Socket, iVin.
Socket, iVin.
Tool, clutch pilot, K-411 (KM)
Wrench, open-end, 3/4-in.
(2) With a %-inch wrench replace the throwout fork mounting ball
in the clutch housing.
107
68
(3) Install the pressure plate in the cover assembly, making sure to
mate the "O" mark on the pressure plate lug with theJ'O" mark on the
cover (fig. 48). This is necessary to maintain proper balance.
(4) With a ,76-mch socket and ratchet handle install the three pres-
sure plate retracting springs. The clutch is now ready to be reassembled to
the engine.
(5) Hand crank the engine until the "X" mark on the flywheel is at
the bottom.
(6) Install the clutch disk, pressure plate, and cover assembly and
support them with the number K-411 clutch pilot tool. Turn the clutch
assembly until the "X" mark on the cover lines up with the "X" mark on
the flywheel (fig. 50).
RA PD 32250
Figure SOAlining Cover Assembly with Flywheel
108
TM 9-765
68
CLUTCH
(7) Install the nine bolts with a TVinch ratchet wrench tighten them
each a turn at a time to prevent distorting the cover as the spring pressure
is being taken up. Remove the pilot tool.
(8) Pack the ball seat in the fork with a small amount of GREASE,
general purpose, No. 2. Install a new spring retainer in the groove in the
clutch fork if the old retainer is worn or damaged. NOTE: Make certain
the retainer is installed with the high side of the retainer up, away from the
ball bearing, and the open end of the retainer on the horizontal.
(9) Replace the fork in position in the clutch housing and snap the
fork onto the ball.
(10) Lubricate the recess on the inside of the throwout bearing collar
and coat the throwout fork groove with a small amount of GREASE, gen-
COAT THIS GROOVE
PACK THIS RECESS
RA PD 32251
Figure 51Throwout Bearing Collar Lubrication
109
TM 9-765
68
eral purpose No. 2 (fig. 51). Then install the throwout bearing on the
throwout fork. CAUTION: Be careful not to use too much lubricant.
(11) Using a %-inch open-end wrench install the adjustment link and
pull back spring.
(12) Install the transmission as explained in section XXXI of this
manual.
(13) Adjust the clutch pedal as explained, in paragraph 67.
110
TM 9-765
69-70
Section XVI
COOLING SYSTEM
Paragraph
Description 69
Inspection 70
Trouble shooting 71
Draining cooling system 72
Filling cooling system 73
Radiator pressure filler cap 74
Fan shroud 75
Fan blades 76
Fan belt 77
Water pump 78
Steam relief tube 79
Water bypass shut-off cock 80
Thermostat 81
Radiator core 82
Care of cooling system 83
Antifreeze 84
69. DESCRIPTION.
a. The cooling system consists of a radiator, fan shroud, fan, thermo-
stat, centrifugal water pump, fan belt, hoses and connections (fig. 52).
b. Cooling Capacity. Cooling capacity is 171A quarts.
70. INSPECTION.
a. Tools Required:
Screwdriver Wrench, open-end, Vi-in.
Socket, 3/4-in. Wrench, torque, J-1313 (KM)
b. All hose connections should be examined frequently and replaced if
they show signs of disintegration.
c. Cylinder head bolts should be checked to see that they are tight (75
to 80 pounds pull on torque wrench) and that there are no leaks around
the cylinder head.
d. The fan belt should be inspected and if it is worn, cracked or oil
soaked, it should be replaced.
Ill
TM 9-765
70-71
RADIATOR CORE
WATER PUMP
FAN"BELT
m"
FAN BLADES
Figure 52Circulation Diagram of Cooling System
e. The belt is in correct adjustment when it can be pushed 3/4-inch
below a straight line midway between the fan and radiator pulleys.
Symptom
a. Overheating.
(1) Lack of water.
(2) Fan belt loose.
(3) Fan belt worn or oil
soaked.
(4) Thermostat sticking
closed.
(5) Water pump inoperative.
(6) Cooling system clogged.
(7) Incorrect ignition or valve
timing.
(8) Brakes dragging.
Probable remedy
(1) Refill system.
(2) Adjust or replace.
(3) Replace belt.
(4) Replace thermostat.
(5) Replace pump.
(6) Flush and clean system.
( 7 ) Retime engine.
(8) Adjust brakes.
112
TM 9-765
71-73
COOLiNG SYSTEM
b. Overrooling.
(1) Thermostat sticking open. (1) Replace thermostat.
(2) Water bypass shut-off cock (2) Close shut-off cock,
open.
c. Loss of Cooling Liquid.
(1) Loose hose connections.
(2) Damaged hose connec-
tions.
(3) Leaky water pump.
(4) Leak in radiator core.
(5) Pressure cap not seating
properly.
(6) Leaks at cylinder head
gasket.
(1) Tighten all hose connec-
tions.
(2) Replace hose.
(3) Repack or report for
replacement.
(4) Repair or replace core.
(5) Install new gasket.
(6) Tighten or replace gasket.
(7) Leaky cylinder expansion (7) Tighten,
plug.
(8) Leaky cylinder block drain (8) Tighten,
cock.
72. DRAINING COOLING SYSTEM.
a. To drain the radiator, open the valve located at the bottom of the
radiator on the right side.
b. To drain the cylinder block, open the valve located on left side of
motor at the rear cylinder (fig. 53).
73. FILLING COOLING SYSTEM.
a. CAUTION: When cooling system has been drained, run motor at
idling speed while filling radiator to prevent air pockets from forming
in the cooling system.
(1) Never pour cold water in the radiator if the water in the cooling
system is boiling or scalding hot, as the cold water may crack the cylinder
head.
113
TM 9-765
73-74
DRAIN COCK
RA PD 32253
Figure 53Cylinder Block Drain Cock
(2) When using antifreeze, never fill the radiator full. Leave about
1 inch of air space between top of water and top of radiator to allow for
expansion of the antifreeze. This will prevent loss of antifreeze.
(3) Close valve at bottom of radiator.
(4) Close valve on left side of motor at rear cylinder.
(5) Fill radiator with clean water or, during cold weather, with an
antifreeze solution.
b. Replace Filler Cap. Be sure that the filler cap gasket is in good
condition and that the cap is tight on the radiator neck.
74. RADIATOR PRESSURE FILLER CAP (fig. 54).
a. Description. The radiator is sealed by a pressure cap which main-
tains a slight pressure on the cooling liquid. The pressure cap consists of
a special filler cap into which is built a spring-loaded valve. The over-
114
TM 9-765
74
COOLING SYSTEM
flow pipe in the radiator filler neck is located above the valve seat so that
no liquid or air can escape when the cap is in position. When the pressure
in the cooling system rises to 3Vi to 4Vi pounds per square inch, the
valve opens and relieves the pressure in the cooling system through the
overflow pipe.
PRESSURE
VALVE
Figure 54Radiator Pressure Cap
b. Removing Pressure Cap.
(1) Turn the cap to the left until the bayonets on the cap come in
contact with the safety stop.
(2) Pause at this point for a few seconds to allow any pressure or
steam to pass off through the overflow pipe.
(3) After the pressure has been relieved, press cap down and turn
it to the left as far as it will go.
(4) Lift cap off of filler neck.
c. Replacing Pressure Cap. When replacing pressure cap, be sure
that the fiber gasket is in a satisfactory condition so that it forms a seal
between the cap and the radiator filler neck.
115
TM 9-765
75-76
75. FAN SHROUD.
a. Description. The radiator is equipped with a fan shroud which is
mounted to the radiator by six bolts, three on each side of the radiator.
h. Fan Shroud Removal.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Extension, socket, 12-in. Wrench, open-end, iV>n-
Handle, socket wrench. Wrench, socket, Vi-in.
(2) Remove the two bolts that hold the radiator brace to the radia-
tor support.
(3) Remove the four cap screws which attach the fan blades to the
fan pulley and remove the fan blades, using ,7,i-inch wrench.
(4) Remove the head lamp wiring loom from the clips along the
top of the radiator.
(5) Remove the six cap screws which attach the fan shroud and radia-
tor core to the support (three on each side), using Vi-inch socket and
12-inch extension.
(6) Push the fan shroud to one side and slip it past the bolt which
attaches the radiator support, lift the brace and lift the fan shroud
upward and out.
c. Fan Shroud Replacement.
(1) Lift brace and slip fan shroud into place.
(2) Replace the six cap screws which attach the fan shroud and
radiator core to the support.
(3) Replace the four cap screws which attach the fan blades to the
fan pulley.
(4) Replace the head lamp wiring loom in the clips along the top
of the radiator.
(5) Install the radiator brace rod in place with the two bolts which
attach the radiator brace rod to the radiator support.
76. FAN BLADES.
a. Description. The fan blade assembly is 18 inches in diameter and
has four blades.
b. Fan Blade Replacement.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Wrench, Vi-in. Wrench, iVin.
116
TM 9-765
76-77
COOLING SYSTEM
(2) Remove the four cap screws which attach the fan blade assembly
to the pulley.
(3) Remove the fan blade assembly.
(4) REPLACING FAN BLADES. Install the four cap screws through the
fan assembly and bolt it to the fan pulley.
77. FAN BELT.
aj Description. The fan belt is of the V type and it drives the fan,
water pump and generator.
b. Adjustment.
(1) TOOL REQUIRED:
Wrench, open-end, Vi-inch.
(2) Loosen the bolt at the generator mounting bracket and the end
of the slotted brace.
WATER
PUMP
FAN
BELT
"* CORRECT 3,
TENSION 4
TENSION
FAN BELT
ADJUSTMENT
BOLT-
GENERATOR
BRACE
GENERATOR
RA PD 32255
Figure 55Fan Belt Adjustment
117
TM 9-765
77-78
(3) Rock the generator on its mounting bracket. Moving the genera-
tor away from the engine tightens the belt. Moving the generator toward
the engine loosens the belt. The correct adjustment is obtained when
the belt can be depressed 3/4-inch from normal as shown in figure 55.
(4) Tighten the bolt at the generator mounting bracket and the end
of the slotted brace and recheck for proper tension.
c. Fan Belt Removal.
(1) TOOL REQUIRED:
(2) Loosen bolt in generator mounting bracket and the end of slotted
brace and push generator toward engine.
(3) Remove fan belt from generator pullfty.
(4) Remove fan belt from crankshaft pulley.
(5) Slip fan belt over fan blades.
d. Fan Belt Replacement.
(1) Slip fan belt over fan blades.
(2 ) Slip fan belt over crankshaft pulley.
( 3 ) Slip fan belt over generator pulley.
(4) Adjust fan belt.
(5) Tighten bolts in generator mounting bracket and end of slotted
brace.
78. WATER PUMP.
a. Description. The water pump is of the centrifugal ball bearing
type. The water pump needs no lubrication during the life of the pump.
b. Water Pump Replacement.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Wrench, open-end, -,Vin. Wrench, open-end, s/s-in.
(2) REMOVING WATER PUMP.
(a) Drain the radiator.
(b) Loosen the hose clamps that clamp the hose to water pump and
elbow.
(c) Slide hose away from water pump.
118
TM 9-765
78-80
COOLING SYSTEM
(d) Loosen the bolt in the slotted end of the generator brace and
mounting bracket to loosen fan belt. Remove belt from water pump
pulley.
(e) Remove the four cap screws which attach the pump to the cylinder
block and remove the pump and fan blades as an assembly by turning it as
it is removed (fig. 56).
(3) REPLACING WATER PUMP.
(a) Install new gasket between water pump and cylinder block and
place pump and fan blade assembly in position.
(b) Install the four cap screws that hold the pump to the cylinder
block.
(c) Install the fan belt over the three pulleys and adjust to proper
tension.
(d) Slide the hose connection over the water pump opening and
tighten the hose clamps.
(e) Close both drain cocks, fill the radiator and make sure there are no
water leaks.
79. STEAM RELIEF TUBE (fig. 57).
a. The steam relief tube is a tube from the top of the radiator to the
left side of the cylinder head. It is for the purpose of relieving any air
pockets that may be caused by steam or surging of water when the vehicle
is descending steep grades.
b. Care of Steam Relief Tube.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Screwdriver Wrench, open-end, s/s-in.
(2) The steam relief tube requires no attention other than keeping it
from leaking. If leaks occur at front end of tube, tighten or replace hose
connections. If leak occurs at rear of tube, tighten packing nut to shut-off
valve.
80. WATER BYPASS SHUT-OFF COCK (fig 57).
a. Purpose. The purpose of the shut-off cock is to prevent the cooling
liquid from bypassing the thermostat under cold operating conditions.
b. CAUTION. Always keep the water shut-off bypass closed when the
air temperature is below 60 F, unless the vehicle is descending steep
grades.
119
80
120
TM 9-765
RA PD 32256
FAN ASSEMBLY IWATER PUMP
Figure 56 Wafer Pump Removal
TM 9-765
81-82
COOLING SYSTEM
81 THERMOSTAT.
a. Description. A bellows-type thermostat is located in the water
outlet passage in the cylinder head. It is set to start opening at about 143
degrees and is fully open at 170 degrees. The engine should not be operated
without a thermostat.
h. Thermostat Replacement.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Screwdriver Wrench, open-end, fo-in.
(2) REMOVING THERMOSTAT.
(a) Drain radiator.
(b) Loosen upper hose clamps with screwdriver.
(c) Remove cap screws which attach the water outlet connection to
the cylinder head, using a ^-inch wrench.
(d) Remove water outlet connection.
(e) Remove water outlet connection gasket.
(f) Remove thermostat.
(3) REPLACING THERMOSTAT.
(a) Install thermostat, exposed parts of bellows to front and rear.
(b) Install new gasket.
(c) Install water outlet connection.
(d) Install hose connection and hose clamps.
82. RADIATOR CORE.
a. Description. The radiator core is of the tube and fin construction
and is made of copper. The core is supported in steel anchorage and bolted
in a support that is bolted in turn to the front cross member through a
rubber cushion.
b. Radiator Core Removal.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Extension, socket, 12-in. Wrench, open-end, fg-in.
Handle, socket wrench Wrench, socket, Vi-in.
Screwdriver
( 2 ) Drain the radiator.
(3) Remove all hose connections.
121
ja
0)
oc
en
82
122
TM 9-765
TM 9-765
82
COOLING SYSTEM
(4) Remove the two bolts which attach the radiator brace to the
radiator support.
(5) Loosen nuts on brace rod at the'dash.
(6) Remove the fan blades.
(7) Remove the head lamp wiring loom from the clips along the top
of the radiator.
(8) Remove the six cap screws (three on each side) that hold the fan
shroud and radiator to the support.
(9) Raise the brace rod and push the fan shroud to one side, slipping
it past the bolt which attaches the radiator support brace.
(10) Lift fan shroud up and out.
(11) Remove radiator core in the same manner as the fan shroud
(fig. 58).
Figure 58 Radiator Core Removal
RA PD 32258
123
TM 9-765
82-84
-. Replacing Radiator Core.
(1) Lift the brace rod and slip the radiator core in place.
( 2 ) Slip the fan shroud in place/
(3) Install the six cap screws through the fan shroud and radiator
core to the support.
(4) Replace head lamp wiring loom in clips along the top of the
radiator.
(5) Replace the fan blades.
(6) Replace the brace to the radiator support.
( 7 ) Replace all hose connections and clamps.
(8) Tighten nuts on brace rods at dash.
(9) Refill cooling system.
(10) Check to see that there are no water leaks.
83. CARE OF COOLING SYSTEM.
a. Tool Required:
Screwdriver
h. The cooling system should be given a systematic servicing every
6000 miles or about twice a year, in the spring and fall.
o. Drain the cooling system.
d. Flush the cooling system by letting water run through it for a few
minutes. If the water does not run clear in a couple of minutes, the sys-
tem should be flushed with a flushing solution, following the instructions
that are furnished with the solution. When flushing the cooling system,
the flushing hose should be attached to the lower connection of radiator.
Remove flush.
e. Replace all hose connections that show signs of deterioration.
f. Add Va pint of SOLUTION, rust preventive, when filling the cool-
ing system with fresh water.
g. Check to see that there are no water leaks.
84. ANTIFREEZE. See paragraph 30 for use of antifreeze solutions.
124
TM 9-765
85-86
Section XVII
BATTERY AND STARTING SYSTEM
Paragraph
Description 85
Inspection and maintenance 86
Trouble shooting 87
Battery 88
Starting motor . . 89
Starting motor switch 90
>
85. DESCRIPTION.
a. In the starting system, there are three units: the battery, the start-
ing switch and the starting motor. Important. Some vehicles are positive
grounded and some negative grounded. Before removing battery or
cables note which system is used and install parts accordingly.
b. The battery supplies the electric energy and the switch completes
the circuit, allowing the electric energy to flow to the startirig motor. The
motor then delivers mechanical energy and does the actual work of
cranking the engine. The starting equipment is used for a shon time only
and then remains idle until it is again needed to start the engine. The
battery, however, performs other functions.
c. It should be noted that the starting motor draws a large amount of
current for a short period of time, whereas the generator replaces this
current by charging the battery at a lower rate for a much longer period
of time.
86. INSPECTION AND MAINTENANCE.
a. Tools Required:
Hydrometer, battery, Tester, volt-ampere,
18-H-1240 17-T-5550
Pliers Wrench, TVm-
b. The battery should be checked once a week to obtain maximum
service.
c. To check the battery and fill it with distilled water, lift off the
inspection cover and remove the vent caps from the battery.
125
TM 9-765
HYDROMETER
GROUND
STRAP
CABLE
I A BATTERY RA PD 32259
Figure 59Specific Gravity Test of Batter/
d. Check the specific gravity of each cell with a reliable hydrometer
(fig. 59). A fully charged battery will show a reading of 1.275 to 1.300.
A completely discharged battery will show a reading of approxi-
mately 1.150.
e. Should the reading be below 1.240, the battery should be recharged
and the cause of the partially discharged condition investigated and cor-
rected.
f. After testing the battery, it should be filled with distilled water to
a level Winch above the plates.
g. The battery must be kept tight in its hanger at all times.
126
TM 9-765
86-87
h. The battery terminals must be kept tight and free of corrosion.
i. To clean the cable terminals, remove them from the battery, scrape
all corrosion from the inside of the terminal and then wash them off in a
strong ammonia and water solution, plain water, or baking soda solution.
j. At regular intervals, the cover band should be removed from the
starting motor and the commutator and brushes inspected. If the commu-
tator is dirty, it may be cleaned with No. 00 sandpaper. Then blow out the
dust. Never use emery cloth to clean commutator.
a. Discharged Battery.
Symptom
(1) Loose or dirty terminals.
(2) Generator not charging.
(3) Leak in wiring.
(4) Excessive use of starting
motor, due to hard starting.
(5) Dead cell in battery.
(6) Worn out battery.
(7) Regulator not working.
b. Slow Starter Speed.
(1) Discharged battery.
(2) Loose or dirty terminals
on battery and ground.
(3) Worn brushes.
(4) Sticking brushes.
(5) Dirty or burned commu-
tator.
(6) Worn drive end bushing.
(7) Burned starter switch
points.
Probable remedy
(1) Clean and tighten termi-
nals.
(2) Test as directed in para-
graph 92.
(3) Check wiring for short cir-
cuit.
(4) Tune engine as directed in
paragraph 116.
(5) Replace battery.
(6) Replace battery.
(7) Check regulator.
(1) Recharge or replace bat-
tery.
nals.
(3) Replace brushes.
(4) Clean brushes.
(5) Clean commutator.
(6) Replace starting motor.
(7) Replace switch.
127
TM 9-765
88-89
88. BATTERY.
a. Description. The battery in this truck is a 19-plate 6-volt battery
having a rated capacity of 150 ampere hours. The battery is mounted in
a hanger located outside the frame side rail just to the rear of the cab
step on the right side of the truck (fig. 59). A removable metal cover
attached by two screws protects the battery from mud and dirt. It also
provides access for inspection and fiHing the battery with distilled water.
b. Battery Removal.
'(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Battery Screwdriver
Knife Wrench, 19-in.
Pliers
(2) Remove screws on inspection cover and remove cover, using
-iVinch wrench.
(3) Loosen the nuts on battery cable clamp bolts with A-inch
wrench.
(4) Spread ends of battery cable clamps to loosen them from the
battery terminal and remove the cables from the battery terminals.
(5) Loosen the two nuts on the ends of the battery retainer cover
and remove the battery retainer cover, using a T%-inch wrench.
(6) Lift battery out of the battery hanger.
c. Battery Replacement.
(1) Place the battery in position in the battery hanger. Be sure that
the correct battery terminal is grounded.
(2) Install the battery retainer cover and the two nuts and lock
washers.
(3) Scrape the inside of the battery cable clamps and install the
battery cables on the battery terminals.
(4) Tighten battery cable clamp nuts securely.
(5) Install inspection cover and screws.
89. STARTING MOTOR.
a. Description.
(1) The starting motor is located on the right side of the engine at
the rear.
(2) The starting motor incorporates a manual shift drive mechanism
which assures positive engagement of the starting motor pinion with the
flywheel until the engine is started (fig. 60).
128
TM 9-765
89
III
STARTER BUTTON
II
II
COMMUTATOR
COVER BAND
OVER-RUNNING
CLUTCH
Figure 60Cross Section of Starting Motor
(3) The starter pedal is connected to the manual shift drive mechan-
ism by a series of linkage which also operates the starting switch.
b. Starting Motor Removal.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Pliers
Screwdriver
Wrench, ij-in.
Wrench, starter, %-in. KMO-
126 (KM)
(2) Disconnect battery terminals from battery.
(3) Remove nut and lockwasher from starting switch with a |J-inch
wrench. Then remove ammeter wire and battery cable from the switch.
(4) Remove pedal pull-back spring.
(5) Remove cotter key and pin from linkage at point where front
end of pull-back spring hooked on.
129
TM 9-765
89
(6) Remove the two cap screws that hold the starting motor to the
clutch housing with a 3/4-inch starter wrench.
(7) Remove starting motor from clutch housing (fig. 61).
STARTER PEDAL LINK
AMMETER WIRE r BATTERY CABLE
Figure 61Starting Motor Removal
RA PD 32161
(8) Remove the two screws that attach the starting switch to the
starting motor.
c. Starter Installation.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Pliers
Screwdriver
Wrench, iJ-in.
Wrench, starter, %-in. KMO-
126 (KM)
(2) Install starting switch in position on starting motor with two
screws and lockwasher.
(3) Place starting motor in position in clutch housing.
(4) Install the two cap screws and lockwashers that hold the starting
motor to the clutch housing.
130
TM 9-765
89-90
(5) Connect starting pedal linkage and insert pin and cotter key.
NOTE: Be sure that the two insulators are on each side of the contact
bars before installing the switch on the motor.
(6) Install the ammeter wire and battery cable on the starting switch
with the nut and lockwasher.
(7) Connect battery terminals onto battery.
90. STARTING MOTOR SWITCH.
a. Description.
(1) The starting switch is designed to carry the heavy current required
by the starting motor without loss and without heating.
(2) The contacts are mounted loosely and are arranged to provide a
wedging action, thus insuring a good connection when the contacts are
brought together and also giving the contacts a wiping action which
tends to keep them clean.
b. Starting Motor Switch Removal.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Screwdriver . Wrench, fj-in.
(2) Disconnect battery terminals from battery.
(3) Remove nut and lockwasher from terminal and remove battery
cable, using a }J-inch wrench. Tape terminal to prevent short circuits.
(4) Remove the two screws that hold the starting switch to starting
motor.
c. Switch Installation.
(1) Install the starting switch in position on the starting motor and
install the two screws that hold the switch to the starter. NOTE: Be sure
that the two insulators are on each side of the contact bars before install-
ing the switch on the motor.
(2) Install ammeter wire and the battery cable on the terminal and
lock with the nut and lockwasher.
(3) Connect battery terminals onto battery.
131
TM 9-765
91-92
Section XVIII
GENERATOR AND CONTROLS
Paragraph
Description 91
Testing and maintenance 92
Trouble shooting 93
Generator 94
Regulator unit 95
91. DESCRIPTION.
a. The function of the generating system may be summed up as
follows: It converts a small amount of mechanical energy from the
engine into electrical energy which is carried through the wiring to the
battery, where it is stored for future use. In actual operation some of the
energy may be used directly from the generator, but for explanatory
purposes, it is assumed to flow from the generator to the battery and then
be drawn from the battery. The generating circuit diagram is shown in
figure 62.
b. The regulator unit does three things:
(1) It keeps the battery from discharging through the generator
when the engine is not running.
(2) It keeps the generator from overcharging the battery.
(3) It keeps the generator from building up excessive current which
would burn up the generator.
92. TESTING AND MAINTENANCE.
The following tests may be made to determine whether or not the
units are operating normally. If not, the checks will indicate whether the
generator or regulator is at fault.
a. Tools Required:
Screwdriver Wrench, Vi-in.
Tester, volt-ampere, Wrench, -fa-in.
17-T-5550
b. Fully Charged Battery and a Low. Charging Rate.
(1) This indicates normal current regulator operation. To check the
132
TM 9-765
.CUT-OUT
'RELAY
CURRENT -
REGULATOR-
92
.VOLTAGE
"REGULATOR-Vv
BAT. IT FIELD TT ARM.
RA PD 32262
GENERATOR
Figure 62 Generator Circuit Diagram
current regulator, remove the battery wire from the battery terminal of
the regulator.
(2) Connect the positive lead of an ammeter to the battery terminal
of the regulator and the negative lead to the battery wire with the ignition
switch in the "off" position (fig. 63).
(3) Step on the starting switch and crank the engine for about 15
seconds. Then start the engine and, with it running at medium speed,
turn on the lights and other electrical accessories, and note quickly the
generator output on test ammeter, which should be the value for which
the current regulator is set.
(4) Now turn off the lights and other electrical accessories and allow
the engine to continue running. As soon as the generator has replaced in
the battery the current used in cranking, the voltage regulator, if operat-
ing properly, will taper the output down to a few amperes.
133
Ik
a.
4.
0)
8)
"8
92
134
TM 9-765
TM 9-765
92
c. Fully Charged Battery and a High Charging Rate.
(1) Disconnect the field wire from the field terminal of the regulator.
This opens the generator field circuit and the output should immediately
drop off. If it does not, the generator and field wires are shorted together
in the wiring harness.
(2) If the output drops off to zero with the field lead disconnected,
the trouble has been isolated in the regulator. Reconnect the field lead
on the field terminal of the regulator.
(3) Remove the regulator cover and depress the voltage regulator
armature manually to open the points. If the output now drops off, the
voltage regulator unit has been failing to reduce the output as the battery
came up to charge and voltage regulator replacement is indicated.
(4) If separating the voltage-regulator or current-regulator contacts
does not cause the output to drop off, the field circuit within the regulator
is shorted and the regulator should be replaced.
d. A Low Battery and a Low or No Charging Rate.
(1) Check the circuit for loose connections, corroded battery ter-
minals, loose or corroded ground strap. The high resistance resulting
from these conditions will prevent normal charge from reaching the
battery. If the entire charging circuit is in good condition, then either
the regulator or generator is at fault.
(2) With a jumper wire, connect the field and armature terminals to-
gether (fig. 64). Increase the generator speed and check the output. If
the output increases, the regulator requires attention. If the output does
not increase, a further check is necessary.
(3) If generator output remains at a few amperes with the field and
armature terminals connected together, the generator is at fault and
should be checked.
(4) If the generator does not show any output at all, either with or
without the field and armature terminals connected together, short the
armature terminals on the generator to ground with a screwdriver or a pair
of pliers, with the generator operating at medium speed. If spark does not
occur, the trouble has been isolated in the generator, and the generator
should be replaced. If a spark does occur, it is likely the generator is build-
ing up current which cannot flow to the battery because of burnt cut-out
points, points not closing, open voltage winding, or too high voltage setting
of the cut-out. Use a voltmeter to test generators whenever one is available,
as less than seven volts (required for operation) may give a spark and false
information.
135
0)
92
136
TM 9-765
TM 9-765
92-94
e. Maintenance. At regular intervals, the generator cover band should
be removed and the commutator and brushes inspected. If the commutator
is dirty, it may be cleaned with No. 00 sandpaper and then the dirt blown
out. Never use emery cloth to clean commutator.
Symptom
a. Low Generator Charging Rate.
( 1) Dirty commutator.
(2) Loose fan belt.
(3) Voltage regulator out of
adjustment.
(4) High resistance in charg-
ing circuit.
( 5 ) Worn brushes.
(6) Weak brush springs.
Probable remedy
(1) Clean commutator.
(2) Adjust fan belt. See para-
graph 77.
(3) Replace unit.
(4) Clean and tighten battery
terminals and check circuit
for loose connections.
(5) Replace brushes.
(6) Replace springs.
b. Too High Generator Charging Rate.
(1) Current regulator out of (1) Replace unit,
adjustment.
(2) Dead cell in battery. (2) Replace battery.
94. GENERATOR.
a. Description.
(1) The generator is a two-brush, shunt-wound machine which is
attached to the left side of the engine at the front by a brace and bracket
with bolts and nuts (fig. 65).
FAN BELT
ADJUSTMENT
BRACKET
FIELD
TERMINAL
ARMATURE
TERMINAL
GROUND
TERMINAL
COMMUTATOR
COVER BAND
'
Figure 65 Generator Assembly
RA PD 31765
137
TM 9-765
94
VOLTAGE
REGULATOR
A-LOCK SCREWS
B-ECCENTRIC SCREWS
C-POINT OPENING
D-LOCK NUTS
E-CONTACT SCREWS
RA PD 32266
Figure 66Generator Circuit Regulator
( 2 ) The generator is driven by the fan belt.
(3) It is cooled by a fan located in back of the generator pulley.
b. Replacement.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Screwdriver
Wrenches, V-in., two
(2) Disconnect the two wires from the two terminals and the ground
connection on the top of the generator. NOTE: Identify each wire with a
tag so that each wire will be put back- on the same terminal from which it
was removed.
(3) Remove the cap screw from the slotted brace on top of generator.
(4) Push generator toward engine.
(5) Remove fan belt from the generator pulley.
( 6 ) Remove the two bolts, nuts and lockwashers at each end of bracket
on bottom of generator, using two Vi-inch wrenches.
( 7 ) Remove the generator.
(8) To install a new generator, place generator in position on the
138
TM 9-765
94-95
bracket and install the two bolts, nuts and lockwashers through bracket
and generator.
(9) Install fan belt on the generator pulley.
(10 ) Install cap screw through slotted brace and bolt it to the generator.
(11) Adjust fan belt tension. See paragraph 77.
(12 ) Connect the two wires to the generator on the same terminals they
were removed from, and connect the third wire to the ground.
95. REGULATOR UNIT.
a. Description.
(1) The generator is controlled by a regulator unit which contains a
voltage regulator, current regulator and cut-out relay (fig. 66). The unit is
fastened to the left side of the dash.
(2) The voltage regulator controls the generator voltage and does not
allow it to rise above a value determined by the voltage regulator setting.
(3) The current regulator controls the maximum generator output
(amperage) and does not allow the output to exceed the value determined
by the current regulator setting.
(4) The cut-out relay is an automatic switch which automatically
closes the circuit between the generator and battery when the generator
voltage rises above that of the battery, and automatically opens the
circuit between the generator and battery when the generator voltage
falls below that of the battery.
(5) The terminals of the regulator unit are marked and care should be
used in making connections; otherwise serious damage to the regulator
may result.
b. Replacement. NOTE: The Regulator unit cover is marked "POS-
GROUND" or "NEG-GROUND." Be sure that the unit being installed
is marked the same as the unit that was removed.
(1) TOOL REQUIRED:
Wrench, Vi-in.
(2) Disconnect the three wires from the terminals on.the regulator
unit. NOTE: Identify each wire with a tag so that they can be connected
to the same terminals from which they were removed.
139
TM 9-765
95
(3) CAUTION: Tape the wire removed from the battery terminal of
the regulator to prevent accidental short circuit during regulator replace-
ment operations.
(4) Remove the four bolts that attach the regulator unit to the dash
and remove the unit, using a Vi-inch wrench.
(5) Install the unit in place on the dash with the four screws.
(6) Install the three wires on the terminals, making sure that they are
attached to same terminals from which they were removed.
140
TM 9-765
96-97
Section XIX
IGNITION SYSTEM
Paragraph
Description 96
Trouble shooting 97
Distributor 98
Condenser 99
Automatic spark control 100
Spark plugs 101
Ignition coil 102
96. DESCRIPTION.
The power in a gasoline engine is derived from burning a gas and air
mixture in the engine cylinders. In order to ignite this gas, the electric
spark is made to jump a small gap inside the cylinder. The ignition sys-
tem furnishes this spark. The spark must occur in each cylinder at exactly
the proper time and the sparks in the various cylinders must follow each
other in the proper order. To accomplish this, the following parts are
used: the battery which furnishes the electrical energy; the ignition coil
which transforms the battery current to high tension current which will
jump the gap in the spark plug; the mechanical breaker which opens and
closes the primary circuit at the proper time; the distributor which
delivers the spark to the proper cylinders; the spark plug which provides
the gap in the engine cylinder; the wiring which connects the various
units; the ignition switch for disconnecting the battery when it is desired
to stop the engine. See figure 67.
a. Hard Starting.
(1) Distributor points burned (1) Clean or replace points
or corroded. and check cause.
(2) Points out of adjustment. (2) Adjust to 0.018 inch.
(3) Spark plug gaps out of ad- (3) Adjust to 0.040 inch,
justment.
(4) Spark plug wires loose or (4) Clean wire and cap termi-
corroded in distributor cap. nals.
141
TM 9-765
97
AMMETER
IGNITION SWITCH
-PRIMARY WINDING
SECONDARY WINDING
IGNITION COIL
BATTERY.
DISTRIBUTOR
CONDENSER
-DISTRIBUTOR POINTS
RA PD 32267
Figure 67Ignition Circuit
(5) Loose connections in pri-
mary circuit.
(6) Corroded battery termi-
nals and ground terminals.
(7) Series resistance in con-
denser circuit.
(8) Low capacity condenser.
b. Failure to Start.
(1) Disconnected
or coil wires.
(5) Tighten all connections in
primary circuit.
nals.
(7) Clean all connections in
condenser circuit.
(8) Replace condenser.
distributor (1) Connect wires.
(2) Corroded battery and/or
ground terminals.
(3) Ignition coil faulty.
(4) Fuel trouble.
(5) Wet spark plugs.
(6) Distributor points burned.
(7) Shorted condenser.
(2 ) Remove, clean and tighten.
(3) Replace.
(4) See section XXIV.
(5) Remove and dry thor-
oughly.
(6) Replace points.
(7) Replace condenser.
142
TM 9-765
98
IGNITION SYSTEM
98. DISTRIBUTOR.
a. Description. The ignition distributor is mounted on the right side
of the engine and is driven from the camshaft by spiral gears. Spark con-
trol is entirely automatic, being operated by centrifugal weights pivoted
on a plate which is an integral part of the shaft and connected to the
breaker arm. This mechanism advances the timing automatically as the
engine speed increases.
b. Maintenance.
(1) Keep the grease cup filled with GREASE, medium cup. Turn
down the cup one turn every 1000 miles.
(2) Add a trace of petrolatum to the breaker cam and add a few
drops of OIL, engine, light, in the wick in the top of the cam under the
rotor every 1000 miles.
(3) The distributor cap should be removed at regular intervals and
the contacts, rotor and cap examined. Look for carbon lines between con-
tacts on cap.
(4) Check the high tension wiring for frayed or damaged insulation
and poor connections at the caps or plugs. Any damaged parts should be
replaced and loose connections tightened.
(5) Contact points that are burned or pitted should be replaced or
dressed down with a fine-cut ignition point file. The file should not be
used on other metals and should not be allowed to become greasy or
dirty.
(6) Never use emery cloth to clean contact points.
(7) Oxidized points may be caused by bad condenser, high resistance
or loose connections in condenser circuit, oil or dirt on the contact sur-
faces, or high voltage regulator setting. Check for these conditions where
burned contact points are experienced.
c. Breaker Point Adjustment.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Gage, feeler, .018-in. Screwdriver
(2) The contact points are fixed on their mounts and are controlled
by an eccentric screw moving the mounting plate. To adjust the gap of
these points, proceed as follows:
(3) Remove the distributor cap and rotor.
(4) Hand crank the engine until the breaker arm cam follower is on
the peak of the cam. The contact points are then opened the maximum
distance.
143
TM 9-765
98
(5) Loosen the lock screw on the stationary mount (the screw nearest
the point) and turn the eccentric adjusting screw to the right or left,
increasing or decreasing the gap to 0.018 inch (fig. 68). Tighten lock
screw and check gap adjustment, and replace rotor and distributor cap.
(6) NOTE: If new points are installed, adjust the gap to 0.020 inch to
0.022 inch to compensate for initial wear on the fiber cam follower.
RA PD 32268
Figure 68Distributor Point Adjustment
<1. Breaker Point Replacement.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Gage, feeler, .018-in. Wrench, ignition, -,%-in.
Screwdriver
(2) To remove breaker points, first remove the distributor cap and
rotor.
(3) Using a j\-inch ignition wrench, loosen nut on terminal on
inside of distributor housing and lift movable breaker arm up until it is
out of housing.
144
TM 9-765
98
IGNITION SYSTEM
(4) Remove the lock screw (screw nearest breaker point), from the
stationary breaker point, and remove the point.
(5) To install breaker points, first install stationary contact point and
movable contact point.
(6) Adjust point gap to 0.018 inch. See (5) above.
(7) Install rotor and distributor cap.
e. Distributor Replacement.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED: '.
Light, timing, KMO-318 ( KM ) Screwdriver
(2) To remove distributor, first remove distributor cap.
(3) With point of screwdriver or a piece of chalk, put a mark on
outside of housing at right angles to motor. This is important as housing
must be replaced in the same position.
(4) Also scratch a mark on the rim of the housing at a point opposite
the center of the metal tip at the outside of the rotor. This also is important
as the rotor must be in this position when the distributor is replaced.
(5) With a screwdriver, loosen the distributor clamp screw, which is
located between the distributor and the cylinder block.
(6) Thread distributor assembly up and out of cylinder block.
(7) To install distributor, if the engine has not been turned or hand
cranked since removing the distributor, the distributor can be replaced
as follows:
(8) Thread distributor part way into the cylinder block. Set distribu-
tor body in the same position that it was in before it was removed and
hold it with one hand.
(9) While holding distributor body, turn rotor one tooth of the gear
(about J/4 inch) in a clockwise direction from the mark that was
scratched on the edge of the rim and push assembly down in position.
NOTE: Be sure that marks line up and both the rotor and the housing
are in the same position they were in before they were removed.
(10) Tighten distributor clamp screw and install distributor cap.
(11) Time engine as follows:
(12) Attach timing light to No. 1 spark plug.
(13) Start engine and run it at idling speed.
145
TM 9-765
98
(14) Loosen distributor clamp bolt and rotate the distributor body
clockwise or counterclockwise until the steel ball in the flywheel lines
up with the pointer on the flywheel housing (fig. 69).
TIMING
POINTER
TIMING
LIGHT
NO. 1 SPARK
PLUG WIRE
NO. 1 SPARK
PLUG
Figure 69 Setting Engine Timing
(15) Tighten distributor clamp screw.
f. Retiming Distributor.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Light, timing, KMO-318 ( KM ) Wrench, -ft-in.
Screwdriver
(2) If the engine has been turned or hand cranked while distributor
was removed, it will be necessary to time the distributor as follows:
(3) Remove No. 1 spark plug with special spark plug wrench.
(4) Remove valve cover with -,9irinch wrench.
(5) With engine crank, hand crank engine until the second valve
(No. 1 intake valve) closes. Then continue to hand crank engine about
one-half turn until the piston comes to the top of the No. 1 cylinder.
This can be determined by turning the flywheel until the steel ball
appears at the indicator opening in the flywheel housing on the right-
hand side of the engine.
146
TM 9-765
98
IGNITION SYSTEM
(6) Now turn engine until the steel ball is about l/2 inch beyond the
indicator, to a line stamped on the flywheel between the letters U/C.
(7) With engine in this position, install distributor cap on distributor
and trace the wire from the No. 1 spark plug and scratch a mark on the
edge of distributor housing directly under the terminal of the distributor
cap that leads to No. 1 cylinder.
(8) Remove distributor cap and install assembly as follows:
(9) Start the assembly in cylinder block.
(10) Hold assembly in one hand with the primary terminal in the
position shown in figure 70.
NO. i PLUG WIRE
ROTOR 1
PRIMARY TERMINAL
DRIVEN GEAR
NO. 1 PLUG
RA PD 32270
Figure 70Distributor Installation
(11) With other hand, turn rotor one tooth or about Vi inch clock-
wise from the mark opposite the No. 1 wire terminal and push assembly
down into cylinder block. NOTE: When assembly is in place, the centei
147
TM 9-765
98-100
of the metal tip at edge of rotor should be lined up with the mark opposite
the No. 1 terminal of the distributor cap.
(12) Tighten clamp screw on clamp which is between the distributor
and cylinder block and install distributor cap.
(13) Time ignition. See instructions in subparagraph e (11).
99. CONDENSER.
a. Purpose. The condenser, which is located within the distributor
body, is provided to permit a rapid collapsing of the lines of force built
up around the windings of the ignition coil and to protect the breaker
points from arcing and burning.
b. Testing. Remove the high tension terminal from the distributor
and support it with an insulated handle screwdriver so that the end of
the terminal is about 3/a inch from the cylinder block. Turn the engine
with the starting motor and if the spark developed is slightly reddish in
color instead of deep blue, then the condenser should be replaced.
Remove and test condenser for shorting, with test lamp. If lamp lights,
condenser is shorted and must be replaced.
c. Replacement.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Screwdriver Wrench, ignition, TVin.
(2) Remove distributor cap and rotor.
(3) With a -i^-inch ignition wrench, loosen nut on terminal on inside
of housing and lift off the end of condenser lead.
(4) With a screwdriver, remove the screw from the clamp that
attaches the condenser to the plate.
(5) To install condenser, reverse the above procedure.
100. AUTOMATIC SPARK CONTROL.
a. Description. Automatic spark advance is accomplished by the
use of two centrifugal weights pivoted on a plate which is an integral
part of the distributor shaft. These weights are connected to the dis-
tributor cam by springs. The inner end of the weights rests against the
lobes of the distributor cam base. As the engine speed increases, the
weights have a tendency to swing out toward the distributor body. This
action moves the distributor cam in a clockwise direction, advancing
148
TM 9-765
100-101
IGNITION SYSTEM
the spark (fig. 71), right view. As the engine speed decreases, the springs
pull the weights back to their original position, retarding the spark (fig.
71), left view.
RETARDED ADVANCED
A-GOVERNOR B-WEIGHT C-WEIGHT
WEIGHT SPRING PIN SPRING
RA PD 32271
Figure 71Mechanical Breaker Mechanism
b. To check the operation of the automatic spark control:
(1) Remove distributor cap and with fingers try to turn rotor in a
counterclockwise direction. It should not move. It should be resting
against the stop.
(2) Now turn rotor in a clockwise direction. It should turn about Vi
inch before it hits a stop. When you let go of the rotor, the spring tension
should return the rotor to its original position.
(3) If the automatic spark control does not operate as outlined above,
the distributor should be replaced.
101. SPARK PLUGS.
a. Tools Required:
Gage, spark plug
Wrench, spark plug, s/s-in.
b. The spark plugs are 10 millimeter AC104. They are of one piece
construction.
c. When installing spark plugs, use a new gasket and screw the plug
in finger tight. Then tighten with a spark plug wrench one-half turn
more, just making a good seat on gasket. If a torque wrench is used, the
plugs should not be tightened over 15 foot pounds maximum.
149
TM 9-765
101-102
d. Keep plugs clean. Always use correct heat range A-C-104.
e. Keep spark plug gaps adjusted to 0.040 inch.
f. Use a round feeler gage when setting spark plug gaps (fig. 72).
102. IGNITION COIL.
a. The ignition coil is filled with transformer oil and is hermetically
sealed to prevent the entrance of moisture. A large porcelain insulator is
used at the secondary terminal to provide effective insulation.
.040
RA PD 32772
Figure 72Setting Spark Plug Gap
b. Coil Testing. Coil tests can only be made on coil testing equipment;
therefore, the instructions of the equipment manufacturer should be
followed.
c. Coil Removal.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Screwdriver
Wrench, 3/s-in.
(2) With a %-inch wrench, remove nuts and lockwashers on the two
terminals on top of the coil and remove wires.NOTE: Tag wires "pos." and
150
TM 9-765
102
IGNITION SYSTEM
"neg." so they can be put back on the same terminals from which they
were removed. THIS IS IMPORTANT.
(3) Pull high tension wire off of terminal at bottom of coil.
(4) With screwdriver, remove the two screws on each side of the
coil which attach the coil to the cylinder block.
d. Coil Replacement.
(1) Mount coil on right side of motor with the two screws and
lockwashers.
(2) Push high tension wire on terminal at bottom of coil.
(3) Attach wires to the two terminals on top of the coil. Make sure
to put the wires on the same terminals from which they were removed.
151
TM 9-765
103
Section XX
LIGHTING AND WIRING SYSTEMS
Paragraph
Description 103
Trouble shooting on headlights 104
Main light switch 105
Head lamps 106
Head lamp aiming 107
Blackout head lamp 108
Blackout tail and stop lamp 109
103. DESCRIPTION.
a. The lights are controlled by switches within easy reach of the driver.
The lighting circuits are protected by an overload circuit breaker which
clicks on and off in the event of a short circuit in the wiring. In addition, the
wiring to the fuel gage and horn in protected by circuit breakers of the
same type.
b. A simplified wiring diagram of the electrical system is shown in
figure 73. By studying this diagram the reader can gain an understanding
of the circuits which operate the various units and lights in the system.
c. For convenience in servicing, the wiring on this truck is made up in
three separate wiring harnesses, namely, chassis rear wiring harness, chassis
front wiring harness and body wiring harness. These harnesses connect to
a common junction block located on the front of the dash on the left side
of the truck. Figures 74, 75, and 76 show these wiring harness connections
to the junction block followed by an explanation of the wiring hookup.
d. Chassis Front Wiring Harness (fig. 74).
Terminal Connects Wire Wire
No. to Size No. Color
1 Blackout head lamp 16 Natural with green tracer
2 No connection this
harness
3 Head lamp upper beam 12 Natural with black cross
tracer
4 Horn 14 Natural with black tracer
5 Horn 14 Natural with red tracer
6 Head lamp lower beam 14 Natural with green tracer
152
153
103
TM 9-765
TM 9-765
103
II 12 13 14
RA PD 32274
Figure 74-Chassis Front Wiring Harness Junction Block
e. Chassis Rear Wiring Harness (fig. 75).
Terminal Connects
No. to
1 Blackout tail lamps
2 Electric brake controller
3,4,1 No connection with this
5 & 6 J harness
Wire Wire
Size No. Color
16 Natural with green tracer
'12 Natural with red tracer
7 Main gas tank gage unit
8 Auxiliary gas tank gage unit
9 "T" terminal on trailer
connector
10 Service tail lamp, and
"BATT" on dimmer switch
11 Service stop lamp
16 Natural with red tracer
16 Natural with black tracer
14 Black
16 Natural with black cross
tracer
14 Natural
154
TM 9-765
103
II 12 13 14
RA PD 32275
Figure 75Chassis Rear Wiring Harness Junction Block
Wire Wire
Size No. Color
16 Natural with green cross
tracer
14 Natural
14 Natural with black tracer
Terminal Connects
No. to
12 Blackout stop lamp
13 Brake control stop light
switch and service stop
light switch
14 Brake control stop light
switch, service stop light
switch, and "S" terminal
on trailer connector
f. Body Wiring Harness (fig. 76).
Terminal Connects Wire Wire
No. to Size No. Color
1 Electric brake load 12 Natural with red tracer,
regulator
155
TM 9-765
103
I23
>: >' X X ~'
RA PD 32276
Figure 76Bod/ Wiring Harness Junction Block
Terminal Connects Wire
No. to Size No.
2 Terminal "BHT" on lighting 16
switch
3 Dimmer switch bright 12
(upper beam) terminal
4 Horn button 14
5 Horn circuit breaker 14
6 Dimmer switch dim (lower 14
beam) terminal
7 Main tank terminal on gas 16
tank gage selector switch
8 Auxiliary tank terminal on 16
gas tank gage selector
9 Lighting switch "TT" 14 Black
terminal (trailer taillight)
Wire
Color
Natural with green tracer
Natural with black cross
tracer
Natural with black tracer
Natural with red tracer
Natural with green tracer
Natural with black cross
tracer
Natural with black tracer
156
TM 9-765
103-105
10 Lighting switch "HT" ter- 12 'Black with red cross tracer
minal (head and tail) also "
instrument light switch
11 Lighting switch "S" terminal 16 Natural
(service stop light)
12 Lighting switch "BS" termi- 16 Natural with green cross
nal (blackout stop light) tracer
13 Lighting switch "SW" termi- 14 Natural
nal (stop light switch)
14 Lighting switch "SS" termi- 14 Natural with black tracer
nal (trailer connector)
104. TROUBLE SHOOTING ON HEADLIGHTS.
a. LIGHTS BURN DIM
(1) Loose connections. (1) Tighten connections at
junction terminal blocks
and at ground connection
on both fender skirt and
dimmer switch.
(2) Burned switch contacts. (2) Replace lighting or dim-
mer switch.
(3) Corroded battery terminals. (3) Clean and tighten battery
terminals.
105. MAIN LIGHT SWITCH.
a. This switch has four positions. When the switch button is all the
way in, all lights are turned off. Pulling the switch out to the first position
turns on the blackout head lamp, the blackout tail lamps and also connects
the circuit for the blackout stop lamp on the right side of the truck, the
circuit being completed through the stop light switch when the brakes
are applied.
b. To turn on the main headlights, it is necessary to push down on the
blackout button, and while holding it down, pull the switch button out to
the main headlight position. When the lighting switch button is pulled
all the way out, all lights are turned off and connections are made for the
use of the service stop light during daylight driving.
157
TM 9-765
105-106
c. The lighting switch is shown in figure 77. Each terminal is marked
for the convenience of the repairman when replacing a switch or body
wiring harness. The connection table gives the color wire which should
be connected to each terminal.
SS
RA PD 32277
Figure 77-Main Light Switch
d. Lighting Switch Connections.
Terminal Wire
Marking Size No.
B.S.
H.T.
B.H.T.
S.S.
S.W.
16
16
12
16
12
14
14
Wire
Color
Natural
Natural with green
cross tracer
Natural with black
and red cross
tracer
Natural with green
tracer
Natural with red
tracer
Natural with black
tracer
Natural
Connects to
Service stop junction
Blackout stop junction
To head and tail junction
Blackout head and tail
To ammeter
To stop light S.W. junction
To stop S.W. feed junction
106. HEAD LAMPS.
a. Head lamps (fig. 78) are the "sealed beam" type; that is,
reflector bulb and lens are a complete unit and can only be replaced as
a unit. The lower beam filament is positioned slightly to one side of the
focal point in the reflector. This results in deflecting the lower beam to
158
TM 9-765
106
the right side to illuminate the side of the road when meeting other
vehicles on the highway.
b. Sealed Beam Unit Replacement.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Screwdriver, small Wrench, open-end, Vi-in.
(2) Remove the three brackets to fender attaching bolts, using a
T^-inch wrench, and turn the head lamp on the fender.
(3) Loosen the lens rim clamp screw, using a small screwdriver, and
remove the rim.
(4) Remove the three screws attaching the retainer ring to the lamp
body and remove the ring.
(5 ) Pull the "sealed beam" unit out of the lamp body and disconnect
the wiring connector from the rear of the unit.
(6) Install a new unit by reversing the above operation. NOTE:
By following this procedure, it will not be necessary to reaim the head
lamp when replacing a "sealed beam" unit.
SEALED BEAM
UNIT
CONNECTOR
RA PD 32278
Figure 78Head Lamp Construction
159
TM 9-765
107
107. HEAD LAMP AIMING. /
a. Headlights may be aimed by use of an aiming screen, provided a
clear space of 25 feet from the front of the head lamp to the screen is
available. A portable screen is preferable because it simplifies the prob-
lem of centering the truck on the screen. The screen should be made of
light colored material and should have a black center line for use in
centering the screen on the truck (fig. 79). The screen should have
two vertical black lines, one on each side of the center line and 18 inches
from it. The screen should be equipped with a movable horizontal tape
which is also black.
b. Procedure.
(1) TOOL REQUIRED:
Wrench, open-end, 3A-in.
CENTER LINE AHEAD-
^CENTER LINE
\J OF TRUCK
HOT SPOT SHOULD BE-,
CENTERED UP AND
^-HOT SPOT SHOULD
x-CENTER LINE AHEAD
/ OF RIGHT HAND LAMP
DOWN ON LINE A-A
* BE CENTERS
ON LINE B-
D SIDEWAYS
/-HEADLAMP CENTER LEVEL
f' / / / / '' / / //^ '
^ ' .' ' '' / '/,'//,
/\
S< '^ '*',//''/ /*''
'/ '"'' '' ,' / /
22
////////'//.'
\"
./y//////////
/x
*, 3" FOR ALL VEHICLES
..
\ AIM RIGHT HAND LAMP
\ SAME AS LEFT, EXCEPT
V CENTER HOT SPOT
LHOT SPOT OF HEADLAMP
SIDEWAYS ON LINE C-C
UPPER E
EAM
NO FURTHER ADJU
STMENT IS
NEEDED FOR LOW,ER BEAM
C RA PD 32279
Figure 79 Head Lamp Aiming Diagram
(2) Place the truck on a level floor with the tires inflated to recom-
mended specifications.
(3) Place the screen 25 feet from the front of the truck and center the
screen on the center line of the truck. This can be done by sighting through
the back window and alongside the center division of the windshield.
(4) Measure from the floor to the center of the head lamp and set the
horizontal tape on the screen 3 inches less than this measurement
from the floor.
(5) Turn on the headlights (upper beam), cover one lamp and check
the location of the beam on the screen. The center of the hot spot should
be centered on the intersection of the vertical and horizontal lines on the
screen as shown in figure 79.
TM 9-765
107-109
(6) If'the aim is incorrect, loosen the nut on the mounting bolt, using a
34-inch wrench, and move the head lamp body on its ball and socket joint
until the beam is aimed as described above. Then tighten the nut on the
mounting bolt. The other head lamp should be aimed in the same manner.
(7) No further adjustment is needed for the traffic (lower) beam.
(8) The illumination output of head lamps is affected by a low battery,
corroded battery terminals, loose connections in the lighting circuits and
loose or dirty head lamp ground connections. Possibly the commonest
cause of reduced illumination is dirty head lamp lenses. This being the
case, it is good policy to keep head lamp lenses clean at all times.
108. BLACKOUT HEAD LAMP.
a. The blackout head lamps are mounted on the front fenders. A dowel
hole in the fender assures proper positioning of the lamp.
b. Bulb Replacement.
(1) TOOL REQUIRED:
Screwdriver
(2) To replace a bulb in one of these lamps, remove the lamp rim
retaining screw with screwdriver, then pull the rim out at the bottom and
raise it upward to release the stamped catch in the cover from the slot in
the top of the lamp body. The bulb is a standard 6-8 volt, 3 candlepower,
single contact bayonet base.
109. BLACKOUT TAIL AND STOP LAMP.
a. The blackout tail and stop lamp mounted on the right side of the
truck chassis contains two sealed units, one for stop signal and the other
for the tail signal. Each consists of a housing, a bulb soldered to the housing,
a filter and lens. When the lamp bulb in one of these units burns out, the
complete unit must be replaced. To replace a unit, remove the two screws
which attach the lamp rim to the body, and pull the unit out of its socket
in the lamp body. The new unit is installed by reversing the above opera-
tion.
b. Blackout Tail, Service Tail and Stop Lamp. The blackout tail,
service tail and stop lamp is mounted on the left side of the truck
chassis. It is constructed in the same manner as the blackout tail and
stop lamp, the difference being in the service tail and stop lamp unit,
which contains a double filament bulb, 3 candlepower for the tail light
and 21 candlepower for stop light, and a lens made of ruby glass. The
operation for replacing a unit is the same as for the blackout tail and
stop lamp.
161
TM 9-765
110-111
Section XXI
ENGINE
Paragraph
Data Ill
Trouble shooting 112
Manifolds 113
Cylinder head 114
Valve adjustment procedure 115
Engine tune-up 116
Engine oiling system 117
Oil pan replacement . . 118
Oil pump replacement 119
Engine removal 120
Engine installation 121
Engine mountings 122
The heavy-duty engine shown in figures 80, 81 and 82 is a four-cycle,
six-cylinder-in-line, valve-in-head type. The engine number is stamped on
a machined surface on the right side of the block just back of the distrib-
utor. The cylinders are numbered from the fan, or front end of the engine.
The engine runs in a clockwise direction, figured from the front or crank-
ing location.
111. DATA.
Model Chevrolet "235"
Number of cylinders 6
Firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4
Bore and stroke 3TVin. x 3^f-in.
Piston displacement 235.5 cu in.
Compression ratio 6.62 to 1
Maximum brake horsepower 93
(3100 rpm)
Rated hp (SAE) 30.4
Weight of engine and clutch 574
Torque, foot pounds 192
162
TM 9-765
111
ENGINE
RA PD 32280
Figure 80 Engine Left Side
Oil capacity
Oil filling location
Oil gage rod
Oil drain location
Cooling system capacity
Cooling system drains (2)
5 qt
Breather, right side
Right side, back of distributor
Bottom, rear of pan
17Vi qt
Bottom, right of radiator and
left rear side of block
163
ill
164
TM 9-765
RA PD 32281
Figure 81 EngineFront
TM
165
111
9-765
ENGINE
TM 9-765
112
a. The engine should be watched closely for any indications of trouble.
Different types of trouble may be encountered, as follows:
Symptom
b. Lack of Power.
(1) Poor compression
(a) Incorrect valve lash.
(b) Leaky valves.
(c) Valve stems or lifters
sticking.
(d) Valve springs weak or
broken.
(e) Valve timing incorrect.
(f) Leaking cylinder head
gasket.
(g) Piston rings broken, worn
or stuck.
(h) Poor fit between pistons,
rings and cylinders.
(i) Exhaust system partly re-
stricted.
(2) Poor ignition
(a) Ignition not properly
timed.
(b) Octane selector not ad-
justed for grade of fuel
being used.
(c) Spark plugs defective.
(d) Distributor points not set
correctly.
(3) Lack of fuel
(a) Dirt or water in carbure-
tor.
(b) Gas lines partly plugged.
Probable remedy
(a) Adjust valve lash (par.
115).
(b) Remove cylinder head and
have valves ground, or re-
port to higher authorities.
(c) Report to higher authori-
ties.
(d) Report.
(e) Report.
(f) Tighten or replace.
(g) Report,
(h) Report.
(i) Replace or clean.
(a) Retime (par. 116).
(b) Set octane selector.
(c) Replace or clean and test
spark plugs.
(d) Set distributor points and
time engine (par. 116).
(a) Clean carburetor.
(b) Clean gas lines.
166
TM 9-765
112
ENGINE
Symptom
(c) Dirt in gas tank.
(d) Air leaks in gas line.
(e) Fuel pump not functioning
properly.
Probable remedy
(c) Clean gas tank.
(d) Tighten and check gas
lines.
(e) Replace or repair fuel
pump.
(4) Improper fuelair ratio
(a) Air cleaner dirty. (a) Clean air cleaner (par.
136).
(b) Carburetor choke partly (b) Adjust or replace choke
closed. mechanism.
(5) Overheating
(a) Cooling system troubles.
(b) Improper grade and vis-
cosity of oil being used.
(c) Fuel mixture too lean.
(d) Restricted air cleaner.
(e) Valves not timed properly.
(f) Defective ignition system.
(g) Transfer case in four
wheel drive on hard sur-
face roads.
(h) Dragging brakes.
(a) See paragraph 71 a.
(b) Change to correct oil.
(c) Adjust carburetor.
(d) Clean air cleaner (par.
136).
(e) Report.
(f) See paragraph 116.
(g) Shift transfer case to two
wheel drive.
(h) Adjust brakes (See par.
54).
c. Excessive Oil Consumption.
(1) Leaking oil
(a) Oil pan drain plug loose.
(b) Oil pan retainer bolts
loose.
(c) Oil pan gaskets damaged.
(d) Timing gear cover loose or
gasket damaged.
(e) Oil return from timing
gear case to block re-
stricted causing leak at
crankshaft fan pulley hub.
(a) Tighten drain plug.
(b) Tighten oil pan bolts.
(c) Replace pan gaskets.
(d) Tighten timing gear cover
or replace gaskets.
(e) Remove oil pan and clean
oil return passages.
167
TM 9-765
112
Symptom
(f) Push rod or rocker arm
cover gaskets damaged or
covers loose.
(g) Fuel pump loose or gasket
damaged.
(h) Rear main bearing leaking
oil into clutch housing.
(2) Burning oil
(a) Broken piston rings.
(b) Rings not correctly seated
to cylinder walls.
(c) Piston rings worn exces-
sively or stuck in ring
grooves.
(d) Piston ring oil return holes
clogged with carbon.
(e) Excessive clearance be-
tween piston and cylinder
walls due to wear or their
being improperly fitted.
(f) Cylinder ^walls scored,
tapered or out-of-round.
Probable remedy
(f) Tighten push rod and
rocker arm covers, or re-
place gaskets.
(g) Tighten fuel pump or re-
place gasket.
(h) Report.
(a) Report.
(b) Report.
(c) Report.
(d) Report.
(e) Report.
(f) Report.
d. Popping, Spitting, and Spark Knock.
(1) Overheated intake manifold
(a) Manifold heat control
spring not properly in-
stalled.
(b) Manifold heat control
valve sticking.
(a) Adjust according to para-
graph 116.
(b) Free up heat control valve.
(2) Ignition trouble
(a) Loose wiring connections.
(b) Defective wiring.
(c) Defective spark plugs.
(3) Poor carburetion
(a) Lean combustion mixture.
(a) Tighten all wire connec-
tions.
(b) Replace defective wiring.
(c) Clean or replace spark
plugs. See paragraph 116.
(a) Clean and adjust carbure-
tor.
168
TM 9-765
112
ENGINE
Symptom
(b) Dirt in carburetor.
(c) Restricted gas supply to
carburetor.
(d) Leaking carburetor or in-
take manifold gaskets.
(e) Carburetor metering rod
hole cover not in place.
(4) Valve trouble
(a) Valves adjusted too close.
(b) Valves sticking.
(c) Exhaust valve head thin
and overheating.
(d) Weak valve springs.
(e) Valves timed early.
(5) Cylinder head
(a) Excessive carbon deposits
in combustion chamber.
(b) Cylinder head water pas-
sages partly clogged, caus-
ing hot spot in combustion
chamber.
(c) Partly restricted exhaust
ports in cylinder head.
(d) Cylinder head gasket blown
between cylinders.
Probable remedy
(b) Clean carburetor.
(c) Clean gas lines and check
for restrictions.
(d) Tighten carburetor to mani-
fold and manifold to head
bolts, or replace gaskets.
(e) Replace metering rod hole
cover.
(a) Adjust valve lash.
(b) Lubricate and free up or
report.
(c) Report.
(d) Report.
(e) Report.
(a) Remove head and clean
carbon.
(b) Remove cylinder head and
clean water passages.
(c) Remove cylinder head and
clean exhaust ports.
(d) Replace cylinder head
gasket.
(6) Spark plugs
(a) Spark plugs glazed.
(b) Wrong heat range plug
being used.
( 7 ) Exhaust system
(a) Exhaust manifold or
muffler restricted, causing
back pressure.
(a) Clean or replace spark
plugs.
(b) Change to correct spark
plugs.
(a) Clean or replace manifold
and muffler.
169
TM 9-765
112
e. Rough Engine Idling.
(1) Poor carburetion
(a) Improper idling adjust-
ment.
(b) Carburetor float intake
needle valve not'seating.
(2) Air leaks
(a) Carburetor to manifold
gasket leaks.
(b) Manifold to head gasket
leaks.
(c) Air leaks in the windshield
wiper vacuum line.
(d) Air leaks in the hydrovac
lines.
(3) Valves
(a) Improper lash adjustment.
(b) Valves not seating prop-
erly.
(4) Cylinder head
(a) Cracks in exhaust ports.
(b) Head gasket leaks.
(a) Adjust according to in-
structions in paragraph
135.
(b) Replace or report
(a) Tighten carburetor to
manifold bolts or replace
gasket.
(b) Tighten manifold to head
bolts or replace gasket.
(c) Check for leaks and re-
pair.
(d) Check hydrovac lines and
correct leaks.
(a) Check and adjust valves
according to instructions
in paragraph 116.
(b) Report
(a) Replace cylinder head.
(b) Replace cylinder head
gasket
f. Engine Noises.
(1) It is often very difficult to determine the exact cause of certain
engine noises. If unusual noises develop which the driver is unable to
definitely trace and correct, the vehicle should not be driven until an
experienced officer or mechanic has checked the vehicle and given instruc-
tions regarding its use or repairs.
(2) When any motor noise develops, quickly check for low or no oil
pressure and abnormally high temperature indicator reading. Check for
sufficient oil in the motor and sufficient solution in the cooling system.
g. MANY OF THE TROUBLES REFERRED TO UNDER
TROUBLE SHOOTING WOULD BE LOCATED AND CORRECTED
WITH A NORMAL MOTOR TUNE. REFER TO THE MOTOR TUN-
ING INSTRUCTION IN THIS SECTION.
170
TM 9-765
113
ENGINE
113. MANIFOLDS.
a. The intake manifold is designed to assist in the vaporizing and equal
distribution of the fuel to all cylinders. The manifold has an intake heating
chamber cast integrally with it. This heating chamber is open at the bot-
tom for attaching to the exhaust manifold.
h. The exhaust manifold has been designed to dispose of the exhaust
gases with a minimum of back pressure or restriction. The exhaust mani-
fold has a large opening at the center top where the intake manifold bolts
to it. The two manifolds are placed together with a gasket between them
and bolted into one unit, and will not be disassembled unless one of the
two manifolds or the gasket between them requires replacement.
c. A thermostatically controlled valve is mounted in the exhaust mani-
fold to control automatically the amount of hot exhaust gases to be directed
into the intake heat chamber. When the engine is cold, the valve directs a
large portion of the gases to the intake manifold (fig. 83 left). As the
INTAKE
MANIFOLD
HEAT CONTROL
VALVE
EXHAUST
MANIFOLD
RA PD 32283
Figure 83Manifold Heat Control Valve
engine warms up the valve gradually closes and these hot gases are de-
flected away from the intake manifold (fig 83 right). This automatic
control aids in the warming up of the engine and yet prevents overheat-
ing of the fuel mixture.
171
TM 9-765
113
d. The tension of the thermostat spring is very important for proper
engine operation. The spring should be wound up just enough for the end
to slip over the pin in the manifold. This is approximately one-half turn
of the spring at 70 F.
e. Manifold Removal.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Pliers, combination, 6-in. Wrench, open-end, %-in.
Screwdriver, 4-in. Wrench, open-end, i\-in.
Wrench, manifold, TnK-in. Wrench, open-end, fy-in.
(double hex.) 41-W-635
(2) Using a /'K-inch manifold wrench remove two nuts which attach
exhaust pipe to manifold.
(3) CARBURETOR REMOVAL.
(a) Remove the air cleaner.
(b) Disconnect the gas line at carburetor with a -i^-inch and Vi-inch
wrench.
(c) Disconnect the windshield wiper tube.
(d) Disconnect the throttle rod.
(e) Disconnect the horn wires.
(f) Disconnect the hydrovac control vacuum line.
(g) Disconnect the choke and hand throttle wires.
(h) Remove the two Tn6-inch nuts that attach the carburetor,
(i) Lift carburetor off.
(4) With a TVinch manifold wrench remove the two nuts and loosen
the six cap screws which attach the manifold to the cylinder head.
(5) Remove manifolds and gaskets.
f. Manifold Replacement.
(1) To assure a perfect seal between the cylinder head and manifolds,
new gaskets should be used.
(2) Install the manifold gaskets and manifold (fig. 84).
(3) With a iVinch manifold wrench install the bolts and nuts and
tighten them evenly and securely.
(4) CARBURETOR INSTALLATION.
(a) Place gasket and carburetor on manifold.
(b) Install the two ^-inch carburetors to manifold nuts and tighten
them evenly.
172
173
113
ENGINE
TM 9-765
RA PD 32284
A-CYLINDER HEAD
E-INTAKE MANIFOLD
C-MANIFOLD GASKET
D-EXHAUST MANIFOLD
B-ROCKER ARM COVER
Figure 84 Manifold Replacement
TM 9-765
113-114
(c) Connect the throttle rod.
( d ) Connect the windshield wiper tube.
(e) Connect gas feed line with a T^-inch and Vi-inch end wrench.
(f) Connect the horn wires.
(g) Connect the hand throttle and choker wires,
(h) Connect the hydrovac control line.
(i) Install air cleaner.
(5 ) Fit exhaust pipe to manifold, using new packing if necessary. Install
the retaining nuts and tighten them securely with a T^-inch manifold
wrench.
(6) MANIFOLD GASKET LEAKS.
(a) It is important that the manifold attaching bolts be kept tight as
leaks affect the operation of the vehicle.
(b) Leaks caused by loose connections or faulty gaskets between the
carburetor and manifold, or between the intake manifold and cylinder
head will admitairtothe fuel mixture.This deprives two or more cylinders
of their proper mixture, making it too lean. This will result in rough motor
idling, lack of power, overheating and burned valves.
( c ) Leaks between the exhaust manifold and cylinder head, or between
the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe produce dangerous gases in the
motor and driving compartments. The gaskets will soon burn or blow out
and the leak will become a fire hazard.
114. CYLINDER HEAD.
a. Description. The cylinder head of a valve-in-head engine plays an
important part in its operation. It contains the inlet ports, exhaust ports,
valve seats, valve assemblies, spark plugs, combustion chambers and
necessary water passages to maintain the proper temperature of these
important parts.
b. Removal.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Pan, drain Wrench, open-end, 3/s-in.
Pins, guide, cylinder head, Wrench, open-end, fa-in.
N-344 (KM), two Wrench, open-end, Vi-in.
Pliers, combination, 6-in. Wrench, open-end, TVin.
Screwdriver, 4-in. Wrench, open-end, 1 Vs-in.
Socket, 3/4-in. Wrench, spark plug, s/s-in.
Wrench, manifold, 41-W-635 Wrench, torque, cylinder head,
J-1313 (KM)
174
TM 9-765
114
ENGINE
(2) Remove the air cleaner.
(3) Disconnect the lower end of throttle rod.
(4) With a /'.-inch manifold wrench disconnect the manifold from
the engine.
(5) Pull the manifold and carburetor assembly to the left until it
clears the cylinder head and block up the manifold to support its weight.
(6) Drain cooling system.
( 7 ) Remove rocker arm cover with a ,ps-inch open-end wrench.
(8) Remove spark plug wires.
(9) Remove spark plugs with a s/s-inch spark plug wrench.
(10) Remove push rod cover retaining screws and remove the cover.
(11) Remove thermostat housing with a f^-inch open-end wrench.
(12) Disconnect steam relief tube with a s/s-inch open-end wrench.
(13) Disconnect hose from steam relief tube and remove tube.
(14) Disconnect temperature indicator with a Va-inch open-end
wrench and remove the fitting from the cylinder head with 1 Vs-inch open-
end wrench.
(15) Disconnect oil line to rocker arm connector with a %-inch
open-end wrench.
(16) With a TnB-inch open-end wrench remove four bolts and two
nuts which retain the rocker arm assembly atid remove the rocker arms.
(17) Remove the 12 valve push rods.
(18) Remove 15 cylinder head bolts with a torque wrench and
^4-inch socket.
(19) Remove cylinder head and gasket.
c. Valve Grinding. Correct valve seats must be maintained if the
engine is to render satisfactory performance. Special equipment is
required for properly conditioning the valves and seats; therefore, this
work should not be attempted unless the equipment is available.
d. Because of the construction of the valve-in-head engine, the head
and valve mechanism can be taken to a 3rd or 4th echelon shop for valve
conditioning.
e. Carbon Removing.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Drill, electric, and carbon brush Scraper, carbon
(2) Whenever the cylinder head is removed, the carbon should be
cleaned out before installing the cylinder head.
(3) Scrape the carbon from the heads of the pistons.
(4) Clean the carbon from the combustion chambers and valve ports.
175
TM 9-765
114
f. Rocker Arm and Shaft Assemblies.
( 1) The valve-in-head engine requires the use of valve tappets, which
ride the lobes of the camshaft, push rods, rocker arms, and rocker arm
shafts to operate the valves. In order to obtain correct clearance between
rocker arms and valve stems, an adjusting screw with a ball end is used
at the push rod end of the rocker arm. The ball seats in push rod head.
It is important that correct adjustment be maintained to keep this
mechanism normally quiet and provide correct opening and closing of
the valves. Three intake and three exhaust rocker arms are mounted on
each of the two shafts.
(2) Sludge and gum formation in the shafts and rocker arms may
restrict the normal lubrication to the rocker arms and valves. Any time
the rocker arm and shaft assemblies have been removed they should be
disassembled and thoroughly cleaned.
(3) To remove the rocker arms from the shafts it is only necessary to
remove the hairpin locks, the springs, and rocker arms.
(4) Clean all the sludge or gum formation from the inside and outside
of shafts. Clean the oil holes and passages in the shafts and rocker arms.
(5) There are three each of four different rocker arms usedright-
and left-hand exhaust and right-and left-hand intake. It is important that
these be installed in the correct positions. For identification each type
rocker arm carries a different number stamped on the side (fig. 85).
The proper locations of the rocker arms according to number are as
follows:
EXHAUST
INLET
Figure 85 Rocker Arm Identification
RA PD 32285
No. on
Rocker Arm
Type
Rocker Arm
L.H. Exhaust
R.H. Exhaust
L.H. Intake
R.H. Intake
For Cylinder
1-3-5 Exhaust
2-4-6 Exhaust
2-4-6 Intake
1-3-5 Intake
Part
839459
839460
839463
839464
176
177
114
ENGINE
TM 9-765
TM 9-765
114
(6) One end of each shaft is plugged; the open end of the shafts should
be placed at the center. The rear shaft has a stamped steel baffle in the
forward end. This is to evenly distribute oil'to both shafts. Figure 86
shows the position of all rocker arms on the shafts.
g. Cylinder Head Replacement.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Use tools listed in b (1) of this paragraph.
(2) Install new cylinder head gasket with the markings "This side
up," as shown in figure 87, up and on the camshaft side of the engine.
(3) Install the guide pins in the front and rear holes on the manifold
side to line up and hold the gasket in place while installing the cylinder
head (fig. 87).
CYLINDER BLOCK
HEAD GASKET
CYLINDER HEAD
GUIDE PINS
RA PD 32287
Figure 87Cylinder Head Installation
(4) Install the cylinder head and 15 cylinder head bolts. Using a
H-inch socket and cylinder head torque wrench, tighten the bolts evenly
a little at a time in the order shown in figure 88. They should be tightened
to 75 to 80 pounds with the torque wrench Following this sequence the
correct tightening of the bolts is important to prevent water leaks into the
cylinders and compression leaks between cylinders or into the water
jacket.
(5) Install rocker arm shafts with connector assembly between them
(fig. 89); install four bolts and two nuts which retain the shaft assemblies
178
.0
0)
0)
0)
eo
(M
CD
CD
CO
CO
B>
179
114
TM 9-765
TM 9-765
114
and tighten them securely with a /-{.-inch open-end wrench. Attach
rocker arm oil line to connector assembly and tighten with a
wrench.
ROCKER ARM SHAFT ASSEMBLIES
CONNECTOR ASSEMBLY
RA PD 32289
Figure 89 Installing Rocker Arms and Shafts
(6) Install oil pressure gage fitting and tighten with a
wrench.
(7) With a s/s-inch wrench install steam relief tube and hook up
hose at radiator end.
(8) Hook up temperature indicator, using a Vi-inch open-end
wrench.
(9) Install thermostat housing and tighten with a fj-inch open-end
wrench.
(10) Install push rod cover and, using a screwdriver, tighten the screws
securely.
(11) Install spark plugs using a %-inch plug wrench. (See tightening
instructions in par. 116).
(12) Install spark plug wires.
(13) Install rocker arm cover and tighten with a /g-inch open-end
wrench.
(14) Fill cooling system.
(15) Install carburetor and manifolds and tighten the bolts with a
manifold wrench.
180
TM 9-765
114-115
ENGINE
(16) Connect throttle control rod.
(17) Replace air cleaner.
115. VALVE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE.
a. Tools Required:
Gage, feeler Thermometer, KMO-296 (KM)
I). Before adjusting valve clearance, the engine must be thoroughly
warmed up to normalize the expansion of all parts and stabilize the oil
temperature. This is very important because during the warm-up period
the valve clearance varies considerably.
c. Covering the radiator with a blanket will not materially hasten the
warming-up process because even with the water temperature quickly
raised to 185 F, it does not change the rate at which the oil temperature
increases.
d. The actual temperature of'the oil is not as important as the stabili-
zation of the oil temperature. The expansion or contraction of the valves,
rocker arm supports, push rods, cylinder head and cylinder block are
Figure 89A Valve Adjustment
181
TM 9-765
115-1)6
relative to this oil temperature. Hence, after the oil temperature is
stabilized, these parts have stopped expanding and no change in valve
adjustment takes place.
e. To normalize the engine, run it at a fast idle (approximately
600 rpm ) and check the oil temperature with a thermometer at the over-
flow pipe on the valve rocker shaft connector. WHEN A CONSTANT
OIL TEMPERATURE IS REACHED FOR A PERIOD OF FIVE
MINUTES, THE ENGINE IS NORMALIZED AND READY FOR
VALVE ADJUSTMENT.
f. If a thermometer is not available for checking oil temperature, the
engine should be run at a fast idle for 30 minutes, or the valves may be
adjusted immediately upon returning from a trip.
g. Adjustment. Before adjusting the valve clearance, lubricate valve
stems to insure free movement of the valves in their guides. Adjust the
valve clearance as follows (fig. 89A):
Normal operation Heavy-duty operation
Intake 0.006 in. to 0.008 in 0.010 in.
Exhaust 0.013 in. to 0.015 in 0.020 in.
h. On severe truck operations it is advisable to adjust the valves to the
high setting.
116. ENGINE TUNE-UP.
a. Tools Required:
Feeler, 0.040 in. Screwdriver
Gage, compression, 41-G-124 Set, feeler
Light, timing, neon, KMO-318 Tester, volt-ammeter, 17-T-
(KM) 5550
Scale, check, distributor point Wrench, spark plug, s/a-m.
h. One of the most important operations in the maintenance of the
engine is proper engine tune-up. This operation, more than any other,
determines whether or not the engine delivers the maximum in per-
formance and economy. Only by accurately making the following checks
and adjustments can the performance and economy that has been built
into the engine be obtained.
c. Compression.
ft
(1) Before making any checks on an engine it should be run for several
minutes to warm it up and lubricate the valve mechanism. The compres-
sion of the engine should be checked first when tuning an engine because
an engine with uneven compression cannot be tuned successfully.
(2) Remove all spark plugs with a s/s-inch spark plug wrench.-The
ignition should be turned off, with the throttle valve in the open position.
182
TM 9-765
116
ENGINE
COMPRESSION GAUGE
Figure 90Compression Check
RA PD 32290
(3) Insert the compression gage in a spark plug hole and hold it
tightly (fig. 90). Crank the engine with the starting motor until the gage
reaches its highest reading, which requires only a few turns of the engine.
Repeat the same test on all cylinders and make a note of the compression
on each cylinder.
(4) The compression on all cylinders should be 110 pounds or better,
and all cylinders should read alike, within 5 to 10 pounds, for satisfactory
engine performance.
(5) Should there be a low compression reading on two adjacent cylin-
ders, it indicates a possible inter-cylinder leak, usually caused by a leak
at a cylinder head gasket.
(6) If the compression readings are low or vary widely, the cause of
the trouble may be determined by injecting a liberal supply of oil on top
of the pistons of the low reading cylinders.
(7) Crank the engine over several times and then take a second com-
pression test. If there is practically no difference in the readings when
compared with the first test, it indicates sticky or poorly seating valves.
However, if the compression reading on the low reading cylinders is about
uniform with the other cylinders, it indicates compression loss past the
pistons and rings.
183
TM 9-765
116
(8) The cause of low or uneven compression must be corrected before
proceeding with an engine tune-up job.
d. Spark Plugs.
( 1) Clean the spark plugs thoroughly, using an abrasive type cleaner.
If the porcelains are badly glazed or blistered, the spark plugs should be
replaced. All spark plugs must be of the same make and heat range.
(2 ) Adjust the spark plug gaps at 0.040 inch, using a round feeler gage.
Refer to figure 72. DO NOT BEND THE CENTER ELECTRODE.
(3) Care must be used when installing the 10 millimeter spark plugs,
or the setting of the gap may be upset. If a torque wrench is used when
installing the plugs, the proper torque is 15 foot pounds. If a torque wrench
is not available, the following procedure should be followed.
(4) Install a new gasket on the plug, screw the plug in finger tight and
then tighten with a wrench Vi- to %-turn.
e. Battery Test.
( 1) Connect the negative terminal of a voltmeter to the starting switch
teVminal and the positive terminal of the voltmeter to a good ground.
(2) Close the starting motor switch and crank the engine for 15 sec-
onds. If the starting motor cranks the engine over at a good rate of speed
with the voltmeter reading 5 volts or better, it indicates a satisfactory
starting circuit, which includes the condition of the battery, terminals and
cables. However, if the cranking speed is slow, or the voltmeter reading
is under 5 volts, the starting motor, battery, and battery cable terminals
should be checked individually to locate the source of the trouble. See
section XVII.
f. Distributor.
( 1) Remove the spark plug wires from the distributor cap and exam-
ine the terminals for corrosion. The wires should also be checked for
damaged insulation and for being oil soaked.
(2) Remove the distributor cap and check the cap and distributor
rotor for cracks or burned contacts.
(3) Check the automatic advance mechanism by turning the dis-
tributor cam in a clockwise direction as far as possible, then release the
cam and see if the springs return it to its retarded position. If the cam does
not return readily, the distributor must be disassembled and the^cause of
the trouble corrected.
(4) Examine the distributor points. Dirty points should be cleaned,
and pitted or worn points should be replaced. Check the points for aline-
ment and aline them if necessary.
(5) Hand crank the engine until the cam follower rests on the peak of
184
TM 9-765
116
ENGINE
the cam. Adjust the point gap to 0.018 inch, using a feeler gage (fig. 68).
This operation must be performed very accurately because it affects point
dwell or how long points stay together. Hand crank the engine until the
cam follower is located between the cams. Hook the end of a point scale
over the movable point and pull steadily on the spring scale until the
points just start to open. At this point the reading on the scale should be
between 17 and 21 ounces.
(6) Set the octane selector at "zero" on the scale. Reassemble dis-
tributor cap and spark plug wires. Make sure that the terminals of the
primary wire from the ignition coil to the distributor are clean and tight.
g. Coil and Condenser. The ignition coil and condenser should be
checked, following the instructions given in section XIX.
h. Fuel Pump. Remove the filter bowl and screen, and wash them
thoroughly in SOLVENT, cleaning. When reassembling, make sure that
the cork gasket is in good condition and properly seated. Tighten all
fuel pump connections.
i. Carburetor Air Cleaner.
(1) Remove the air cleaner from the carburetor. Remove the wing
nut from the top and remove the cover. Remove the filter element
assembly. CAUTION: Do not pry this part loose if it sticks. It must be
removed by hand because you may damage the filter element flange,
which must lie flat against the body to insure a tight seat at this point to
prevent air leaks when the cover is assembled.
(2) Empty the oil out of the cleaner and clean out all oil and accumu-
lated dirt. Wash body with SOLVENT, cleaning, and wipe dry. Wash
filter element by slushing up and down in SOLVENT, cleaning. Dry
thoroughly, either with an air hose or by letting it stand until dry. Fill
the body of the cleaner with two pints of OIL, engine, SAE 50.
(3) It is not necessary to reoil the filter element as this is done auto-
matically when the car is driven.
(4) Reassemble the filter element to the body of the cleaner, being
sure that the flange sits flat against the top flange of the body.
(5) Reassemble the cover, making sure that the gasket is clean and in
good condition over its entire surface so that a tight seal is obtained at this
point. Put on wing nut.
(6) Reassemble the cleaner to the carburetor. The cleaner must be put
on tight so that it rests against the carburetor to assure a good seat at this
point. Tighten clamp.
j. Valve Cover Air Cleaner. Remove the air cleaner and wash it thor-
oughly by slushing it back and forth in SOLVENT, dry cleaning. Dry
thoroughly and dip it in OIL, engine, SAE 50. Allow the excess oil to
185
TM 9-765
116
drain off, wipe body of cleaner dry and reinstall on valve cover.
CAUTION: Make sure vent is not restricted. This vent aids crankcase
ventilation.
k. Carburetor.
(1) The only adjustments that should be attempted by using arms
are for the throttle stop screw and idling adjusting screw. See paragraph
135 for adjusting instructions.
(2) If any other service is required, the carburetor should be removed
and sent to the responsible ordnance service for repairs. See paragraph
113 e (3) for instructions regarding carburetor removal.
I. Manifold Heat Valve. Unhook the thermostatic spring from its
anchor pin and check the adjustment. Proper adjustment requires only
one-half turn of the spring to slip it over its anchor pin. Should the ther-
mostatic spring be distorted in any way it should be replaced.
m. Ignition Timing. With the octane selector set at "zero" attach one
wire of the neon timing light to No. 1 spark plug and the other wire to the
No. 1 spark plug wire. Mark the steel ball imbedded in the flywheel wifh
a piece of chalk. Start the engine and run it at idling speed. Loosen dis-
tributor clamp and rotate distributor body clockwise or counterclockwise
until the steel ball in the flywheel lines up with the pointer on the fly-
wheel housing (fig. 69). Tighten the distributor clamp screw.
n. Valve Adjustment.
(1) Start the engine and while it is warming up, the cylinder head
bolts, rocker arm shaft support bolts and nuts, and the manifold bolts
and nuts should be tightened. Where torque wrenches are available the
cylinder head bolts should be tightened to 75 to 80 foot pounds, and the
rocker arm shaft support bolts to 25 to 30 pounds.
(2) Normalize the engine and adjust the valves according to the pro-
cedure given in paragraph 115.
(3) Install the rocker arm cover, using a new gasket and check for
oil leaks.
o. Idling Adjustment. Adjust the carburetor idle and throttle stop
screws in combination with each other to secure the best idling perform-
ance (fig. 100). Idling speed should be set at 500 to 550 revolutions per
minute.
p. Cooling System. Tighten all hose connections and examine for
any indications of water leaks. Check the fan belt for cracks, oil soaking
and for proper tension and adjust it if necessary. See section XVI.
q. Road Test. After the completion of the above operations, the truck
should be road-tested for performance. During this time the octane
selector should be adjusted for the grade of fuel being used. For peak
186
TM 9-765
116-117
ENGINE
performance and maximum gasoline economy, the octane selector should
be set to produce a slight "ping" upon accelerating at wide-open throttle.
117. ENGINE OILING SYSTEM.
a. Lubrication for the engine is supplied by a positively driven gear
pump that is equipped with a spring loaded bypass valve which controls
the maximum pressure at high speeds and when the engine oil is apt to
be heavy and sluggish during cold weather starting.
h. The engine oiling system provides positive pressure lubrication to
the main bearings and camshaft bearings. The connecting rod bearings
are lubricated by means of dippers on the rods which dip into troughs in
the oil pan at low speeds, and by oil nozzles at higher speeds. Cylinder
walls and piston pins are lubricated by the oil spray. Oil for the valve
mechanism is pumped up to the hollow rocker arm shafts.
c. Main and Camshaft Bearing Lubrication. The oil flow is from the
pan, through the pump screen and oil pump to the block fitting pipe, and
then to the oil manifold, thence through drilled passages in the bearing
support webs in the cylinder block, to the four main bearings. The oil
then passes through grooves in the bearings to the drilled passages in the
cylinder block webs and to the camshaft bearings. In this manner full
pressure feed lubrication is supplied to all main and camshaft bearings.
d. Timing Gear Lubrication. Lubrication for the timing gears is sup-
plied by conducting the oil from the front camshaft bearing, through a
milled slot in the back of the engine front end plate, to a nozzle which is
so aimed that the oil stream effectively lubricates the timing gears.
e. Connecting Rod Bearing Lubrication.
(1) Oil for the connecting rods passes from the cylinder block fitting
to the oil manifold, through a drilled passage in the cylinder block and
to the oil distributor. As the oil pressure builds up, the oil distributor
valve opens and releases the oil into a drilled passage in the block, this
passage connecting with the short pipe that fits into the main supply
pipe in the oil pan. From the main supply pipe the oil passes to the oil
manifold in the oil pan, where it is distributed to the six oil nozzle pipes.
(2) The six oil troughs in the oil pan are adjusted to the proper height
so that the connecting rod dippers will dip into the oil and supply lubri-
cation for the lower speeds.
(3) As the engine speed is increased and the oil pressure is built up,
the oil streams from the nozzles rise and are intercepted by the dippers,
forcing the oil into the connecting rod bearings under high pressure. The
cylinder walls, pistons, and piston pins are lubricated by the oil spray
thrown off by the connecting rods.
f. Valve Mechanism Lubrication. Oil for lubrication of the valve
mechanism is tapped off at the oil manifold and is carried by a pipe which
187
TM 9-765
117-119
passes through the water jacket to a fitting between the two hollow rocker
arm shafts, where it is distributed to all rocker arm bearings. A bleeder
hole in each rocker arm supplies oil for lubrication of the valve stems and
push rod sockets.
1 18. OIL PAN REPLACEMENT.
a. Tools Required:
Handle, speed Wrench, open-end, %-in.
Screwdriver Wrench, open-end, 11/)-in.
Socket, Vi-in.
I). Remove oil pan drain plug with a 1Vi-inch open-end wrench and
drain oil from pan.
c. Remove oil gage rod.
<1. Remove oil gage rod guide tube clamp at bottom of cylinder block
and loosen clamp on right side of oil pan. Remove guide tube.
e. Remove the oil pan attaching screws with a screwdriver and a
Mi-inch speed wrench.
f. Bump the oil pan to break it loose from the gasket and lower the
pan, being careful not to damage the oil screen or oil troughs in the pan.
g. When installing the pan, new gaskets and end corks should be
used.
h. Work oil pan up into position over the suction screen. Install
screws and tighten them securely with a screwdriver and a Vi-inch speed
wrench.
i. Install lower end of the oil gage tube in the bracket on right side of
oil pan and the upper end of tube in bracket at botti->m of cylinder block.
Tighten the clamp screws securely.
j. Install oil gage rod.
k. Tighten drain plug with 1Vi-inch open-end wrench.
1. Refill oil pan with OIL, engine, seasonal grade.
119. OIL PUMP REPLACEMENT.
a. Tools Required:
Wrench, open-end, Vi-in. Wrench, open-end, j^-in.
Wrench, open-end, s/s-in.
h. Remove oil pan as described in paragraph 118.
c. Disconnect the oil pump suction and feed lines from the oil pump
with an j^-in. open-end wrench.
d. With a s/s-inch open-end wrench loosen the lock nut, and remove
oil pump lock Bolt with a Vi-inch open-end wrench.
c. Turn slightly and pull the oil pump out of the bracket.
188
TM 9-765
119-120
ENGINE
f. To install the new oil pump, first install the pump in. its bracket.
g. Install the lock bolt, making sure it enters the hole in pump body,
and tighten it securely with a Vi-inch open-end wrench, then tighten lock
nut with a s/s-inch open-end wrench.
h. Connect oil lines to pump and tighten them securely with an ],'.-
inch open-end wrench.
i. Replace oil pan.
120. ENGINE REMOVAL.
a. Tools Required:
Bolt, eye, engine lifting, J-770
(KM) Socket, s/s-in.
Handle, ratchet Wrench, head bolt, 3/4-in.
Hoist Wrench, open-end, 3/s-in.
Pan, drain Wrench, open-end, TT,;-in.
Pliers, combination, 6-in. Wrench, open-end, Vi-in.
Screwdriver, 6-in. Wrench, open-end, Win.
Socket, Y",,-in. Wrench, open-end, IVi-in.
b. Drain radiator and cylinder block.
c. Remove hood and side panels with a screwdriver and /u-inch
open-end wrench.
d. Remove the radiator, front end sheet- metal, and fenders as a unit
as described in paragraph 151.
e. With a -^-inch open-end wrench remove the battery cable and
ammeter wire from the starter switch terminal. Tape the end of the
battery cable wire to prevent the possibility of shorts.
f. Remove the ignition wire from the top of coil with a 3/s-inch
wrench.
g. Disconnect the two oil filter lines at the connectors with a Vi-inch
wrench.
h. Disconnect the gasoline feed line from the fuel pump using a
Vi-inch and a i'Vinch open-end wrench.
i. Remove the right engine side pan with a Vis-inch wrench and
screwdriver.
j. Disconnect the wiring from the generator with a ,7,.-inch open-
end wrench.
k. Disconnect the wires from horn with a /^-inch open-end wrench
and remove the horn.
1. Disconnect carburetor end of choke and throttle cables.
m. Remove the air cleaner.
189
TM 9-765
120
n. Disconnect oil pressure gage line with a ,7,.,-inch wrench and
disconnect temperature indicator.
o. Disconnect the hydrovac booster vacuum line.
p. Remove the two exhaust manifolds to pipe bolts with a /I1-inch
wrench.
q. Remove left engine side pan with a Vi-inch open-end wrench and
screwdriver.
r. Remove the floor and toeboards.
s. With a | 9.-inch open-end wrench split the universal joint back of
the transmission by removing the nuts and lockwashers from the U
clamps which retain the trunnion bearings.
t. With a ,n(i-inch ratchet wrench remove transfer case control
levers and emergency brake lever attaching screws on right side of
transmission.
u. Disconnect power plant brace rod at transmission end with a
.Vinch wrench.
v. Disconnect pull back spring at left rear corners of transmission.
LIFTING EYE BOLT
RA PD 32291
Figure 91 Engine Assembly Removal
w. With a TVinch open-end wrench drain the transmission lubricant
x. With a 1 Vi-inch open-end wrench drain the oil pan.
190
TM 9-765
120-121
ENGINE
y. Disconnect the accelerator rod from the bell crank on left side of
engine.
z. With a TVinch open-end wrench remove the three cap screws
which attach the clutch and brake pedal shaft assembly to the clutch
housing.
aa. Remove the starting motor cross shaft with a ,Vinch open-end
wrench by removing the bolts from the brackets and disconnecting the
link and spring from the starting motor gear shifter lever.
ah. With a T9s-inch speed wrench remove the transmission cover
and place a piece of cardboard on top of the transmission to prevent dirt
falling into it during engine removal.
ac. Remove the bolts from the rear engine mountings with a s/s-inch
ratchet wrench and remove the front engine mounting with a ,%-inch
ratchet wrench.
ad. With a %-inch head bolt wrench remove the third cylinder head
bolt from the rear on the left side and install the engine lifting eyebolt.
ae. Connect a hoist to the eyebolt and raise the engine clutch and
transmission from the chassis as a unit (fig. 91).
121. ENGINE INSTALLATION.
a. Tools Required:
Use tools listed in paragraph 120 a.
h. With a 3/4-inch head bolt wrench remove the third cylinder head
bolt from the rear on the left side and install the engine lifting eyebolt.
c. Connect a hoist to the lifting eyebolt and raise the engine, clutch
and transmission assembly. Swing it over the chassis and guide the engine
assembly into place.
d. Install the engine mounting bolts and nuts with a fjr-inch and
a s/s-inch wrench. Tighten engine mountings and lock securely. See
paragraph 122 h (1).
e. Install the transmission cover and tighten the retaining bolts with
a ,%-inch speed wrench.
f. Install the starter cross shaft and bolt the brackets securely with
a fit-inch wrench. Hook up the starting motor gear shifter link.
g. Place the clutch and brake pedal shaft with pedals in position;
install the three retaining bolts, and tighten them with a T95-inch
wrench.
h. Install the accelerator rod and attach it to the bell crank on the
left side of engine.
i. Hook brake pedal pull back spring to clip at left rear transmis-
sion cover bolt.
191
TM 9-765
121-122
j. Adjust power plant brace rod to correct length so that bolt will
just drop through end of adjusting link and bracket at transmission
cover. Install nut and tighten securely with a j^-in open-end wrench.
k. Install transfer case control levers, emergency brake lever, and
attaching bracket to right side of transmission. Tighten the retaining
bolts with a TVinch ratchet wrench.
1. Place the universal joint in position, install the U clamps, lock-
washers, and nuts. Tighten securely with a ,^-inch ratchet wrench.
m. Install the floor and toeboards.
n. Install left engine side pan with a Vi-inch open-end wrench and
screwdriver.
o. Install exhaust pipe to manifold and tighten with a -^-inch open-
end wrench.
p. Connect the hydrovac booster vacuum line.
q. Connect oil pressure gage line with a T7jf-inch open-end wrench.
r. Connect windshield wiper vacuum line.
s. Connect choke and throttle cables with a screwdriver.
t. Install horn. Tighten bolts with a ,75-inch open-end wrench and
attach horn wires.
u. Attach generator wires and tighten nut with a -^-inch open-end
wrench.
v. Install right engine side pan and tighten screws with a Vi-inch
wrench and screwdriver.
w. Attach gasoline supply line to fuel pump with [%-inch and Vz-inch
open-end wrenches.
x. Attach oil filter lines at the connectors and tighten securely with a
Vi-inch open-end wrench.
y. Attach the ignition wire to the top of coil and tighten with a 3/s-inch
wrench.
z. Attach the battery cable and ammeter wire to starter motor terminal
and tighten with a TVinch open-end wrench.
aa. Reinstall the radiator front end sheet metal and fenders as a unit
as described in section XXVII.
ab. Reinstall air cleaner.
ac. Reinstall hood and side panels.
ad. Refill oil pan and transmission. Lubricate the universal joint that
was disassembled.
122. ENGINE MOUNTINGS.
a. The engine is attached to the frame by three rubber cushioned
192
TM 9-765
122
ENGINE
mountings to prevent engine vibrations from being transmitted to the cab.
One of the mountings is at the front and attaches to the center of the frame
front cross member. The other two mountings are located at the sides of
the engine and attach to the clutch housing and to frame brackets.
h. Front Engine Mounting Removal.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Jack, roller, 41J-73-5 Socket, Vi-in.
Handle, ratchet Socket, Win.
Pliers Wrench, open-end, yr,-m-
Screwdriver
(2) Drain the cooling system.
(3) Remove the upper and lower radiator hose.
(4) Remove the fan blades using a ,7(i-inch open-end wrench.
(5) Loosen the rear motor mountings using a %-inch wrench.
(6) Remove the motor mounting to frame cross member bolt nuts
with a Vi-inch ratchet wrench, and the front end plate to motor mounting
bolt nuts with a /j.-inch ratchet wrench.
(7) Jack the front end of the motor up about two inches, being careful
not to damage the oil pan.
(8) Remove the old motor mounting.
e. Front Engine Mounting Installation.
(1) Install the round head mounting bolts through the mounting top
plate.
(2 ) Place the mounting oil shield over the top plate and place the two
pieces over the bolts in the engine front end plate.
(3) Place the rubber mounting over the bolts with the large end of the
two bushings toward the engine front end plate.
(4) Install the nuts on the two center bolts which are attached to the
engine front end plate. Tighten the nuts securely with a f^-inch wrench;
install cotter pins.
(5) Install mounting, retainer and lower front end of engine so that
bolts pass through holes in frame front cross member.
(6) Install washers and nuts and tighten with a Vi-inch wrench.
( 7 ) Tighten rear mounting bolts.
d. Side Engine Mounting Removal.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Jack, roller, 41J-73-5 Wrench, open-end, %-in.
193
TM 9-765
122
(2) Remove the upper and lower mounting bolts on each mounting,
using a %-inch wrench.
(3) Place the jack under the transmission and raise the back end of
the motor slightly to clear the motor mountings.
(4) Remove the mountings.
e. Side Engine Mounting Installation.
(1) Bolt the side of the mounting with the wider plate to the engine
support bracket.
(2) Lower the jack until the mounting just touches the frame bracket.
(3) Line up the dowel in the mounting lower plate with the dowel
hole in the frame bracket.
(4) Install the lower spacer, lockwasher and bolt.
(5) Remove the jack.
(6) Tighten both bolts with a %-inch open-end wrench.
f. Power Plant Brace Rod.
( 1) DESCRIPTION. To control the fore and aft movement of the power
plant in its mountings when the hand brake is applied, a brace rod is used
between the transmission and frame second cross member. The rear end
of the brace attaches to a bracket on the frame cross member while the
front end is fitted with an adjusting eyeb'olt. The adjusting eyebolt
attaches to a bracket mounted on the right side of the transmission by two
cover bolts (fig. 92).
(2) ADJUSTMENT.
(a) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Wrench, open-end, tVin. Wrench, open-end, %-in.
(b) Locate vehicle on level floor.
(c) Remove the brace rod to transmission bracket bolt with a -f^-
inch open-end wrench.
(d) Loosen the adjusting eyebolt lock nut with a s/s-inch open-end
wrench.
(e) Turn adjusting eye to shorten or lengthen the rod so that the
attaching bolt will just drop through adjusting eye and transmission
bracket.
(f) Tighten lock nut with s/a-inch wrench.
(g) Install flat washer and nut. Tighten nut with a ^-inch wrench
and install cotter pin.
194
*.
jo
0)
Q.
tQ
CH
0>
195
122
ENGINE
TM 9-765
TM 9-765
123-126
Section XXII
EXHAUST SYSTEM
Paraqraph
Description 123
Trouble shooting -. 124
Maintenance 125
Unit replacement 126
123. DESCRIPTION.
a. The exhaust system consists.of an exhaust pipe, muffler and tail
pipe (fig. 93). The muffler is of integral construction, employing the
reverse flow and diffusion principles to obtain quiet operation.
h. The exhaust pipe from the manifold slides into the muffler inlet
tube and is held in place by a clamp. Small projections on the exhaust
pipe locate the proper depth in the muffler. The muffler is attached to the
transfer case support by a strap and clamp assembly. The tail pipe slides
over the muffler outlet tube where it is held by a clamp. The outer end of
the tail pipe is supported by a strap and bolt attached to the frame.
a. Rattling and unusual sounds.
(1) Opened seams in muffler. (1) Replace unit.
(2) Corroded metal. (2) Replace unit.
(3) Loose baffle. (3) Replace unit.
(4) Loose flange. (4) Tighten or replace gasket.
(5) Dents and breaks from fly- (5) Replace if metal is
ing stones, ruts, and stumps. opened.
125. MAINTENANCE.
Keep muffler tail pipe open. Make sure pipe is not closed as this will
affect engine performance. Exhaust flange gasket nuts, strap and clamp
bolts must be kept tight at all times to prevent leaks.
a. Tools Required:
Pliers, combination, 6-in. Wrench, box, VSj-in.
Screwdriver, 8-in. Wrench, open-end, Vi-in.
b. With a Vi-inch wrench remove the tail pipe clamp.
c. With a Vi-inch wrench remove the muffler to tail pipe support.
196
197
126
TM 9-765
EXHAUST SYSTEM
TM 9-765
126
d. Remove the tail pipe.
e. With a /^-inch wrench remove the exhaust pipe to manifold stud
nuts.
f. Disconnect the muffler support spring.
g. With a Vi-inch wrench remove the muffler strap clamp.
h. Remove muffler and exhaust pipe.
i. Remove exhaust pipe to muffler clamp with a Vi-inch wrench.
j. Disconnect the muffler from exhaust pipe.
k. The assembly would be the reverse from disassembly except that all
clamp bolts should be left loose until the parts are in correct relation to
each other.
1. Slight rotation of the muffler may be necessary to line up the inlet
and outlet tubes properly.
m. Make sure the pipes are properly fitted to the muffler and tighten
the clamps, brackets and exhaust pipe to manifold bolts.
198
TM 9-765
127-128
Section XXIII
FRAME
Paragraph
Frame . . 127
Pintle (tow) and pull hooks 128
Bumper 129
127. FRAME.
The frame design features simplicity and great strength, yet provides
accessibility for servicing (fig. 94). Frame side rails and cross members
are constructed of channel steel rigidly riveted together. Braces and
brackets are used to maintain proper longitudinal position of the side
rails relative to each other and at the same time provide additional re-
sistance to twisting.
128. PINTLE (TOW) AND PULL HOOKS.
a. A pintle (tow) hook is provided at the rear and two pull hooks at
the front. The piotle is held in place between the rear frame cross member
and an additional support brace by means of two heavy steel bushings.
Machined collars on the bushings bear against a strong coil spring, provid-
ing a means of absorbing the starting shock.
h. Pintle hook installation.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Wrench, open-end, 3/4-in. Wrench, socket, 2 Win.
(2) Install the pintle hook support over the pintle hook shaft.
(3) Place one of the bushings over the shaft so that the.shorter end of
the bushing pilots through the bracket.
(4) Place the spring over the shaft and bushing so that it rests against
the bushing shoulder.
(5) Place the other bushing over the shaft so that the short end pilots
into the spring and the shoulder rests against the spring.
(6) Install the washer and nut and tighten the nut with a 2 Winch
socket wrench.
(7) Place the pintle hook and bracket assembly against the frame
cross member. Install the eight bolts, washers, and nuts. Tighten securely
with a 3/4-inch wrench.
(8) Back off the pintle hook shaft nut until the bushings cease
turning with the pintle.
199
05
200
128
TM 9-765
TM 9-765
130-131
Section XXIV
FUEL SYSTEM
Paragraph
Description 130
Fuel tanks 132
Fuel pump , 133
Fuel filter 134
Carburetor 135
Air cleaner 136
130. DESCRIPTION.
a. The fuel system consists of a main tank, auxiliary tank, a transfer
and shut-off valve, fuel filter, fuel pump, carburetor, air cleaner, throttle
control and engine manifold. Short, flexible lines are used to prevent
breakage from vibration at main anchored fuel lines.
h. Operation. Transfer and shut-off valve selects the tank to be used
for the supply of fuel (fig. 5).
c. Capacity. Total capacity of the system is 48 gallons.
a. Excessive Fuel Consumption.
(1) Improper carburetor ad- (1) (a) Adjust idling and
justment. stop screws.
(b) Synchronize meter-
ing rod with throttle
valve. See metering rod
adjustment instructions.
(2) Dirty air cleaner. (2) Clean air cleaner.
(3) Fuel leaks. (3) Check carburetor, fuel
pump, fuel tank and all
lines and connections for
leaks.
(4) Sticking controls. (4) Free up controls and
lubricate linkage.
(5) Excessive idling. (5) Stop engine when vehicle
will not be moving for
long periods.
202
TM 9-765
131-132
FUEL SYSTEM
Symptom
(6) Improper engine tem-
peratures.
(7) Dragging brakes.
(8) Tires, under-inflated.
(9) Engine improperly tuned.
(10) Vehicle overloaded.
b. Fast Idling.
(1) Improper adjustment.
(2) Carburetor controls stick-
ing.
Probable remedy
(6) Refer to section XVI of
this manual.
(7) Refer to section XIV of
this manual.
(8) Inflate to recommended
pressure.
( 9 ) Tune engine. See par. 116.
(10 ) Load only to rated capac-
ity.
(1) Adjust idling and throttle
stop screws.
(2) Free up controls and lubri-
cate linkage.
c. Will Not Idle Below 15 Miles per Hour.
(1) Low speed jet or idle pas- (1) Replace carburetor,
sages plugged with dirt.
d. Engine Misses on Acceleration.
(1) Improper spark plug gap
adjustment.
(2) Improper valve adjust-
ment.
(3) Accelerating pump jet
plugged.
(4) Accelerating pump check
valves sticking or leaking.
(1) Adjust.
(2) Adjust.
(3) Clean.
(4) Replace carburetor.
132. FUEL TANKS.
a. A main tank and an auxiliary tank are used. The main tank capacity
is 30 gallons. Auxiliary tank capacity is 18 gallons.
b. Main Fuel Tank. Two steel straps around the top of the tank fasten
into two support braces extending beneath the tank. These braces in turn
are attached to the frame side rail on the right side. On the left side of the
tank, the two steel straps are attached to an "ell" section brace which in
turn is attached at its center to a bracket on the frame left side rail by one
bolt. This provides a three-point mounting for the tank and protects it
from distortion when the vehicle is being driven over rough terrain.
203
TM 9-765
132
c. Replacement.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Screwdriver Wrench, open-end, Viz-in.
Wrench, open-end, 3/s-in. Wrench, open-end, ,'',i-in.
(2) To remove the tank, disconnect the filler at the coupling.
(3) Disconnect gasoline line and wires to fuel gage, using ,'',.,-inch,
3/s-inch, Vz-inch open-end wrenches.
(4) Remove the bolts which attach the braces to the frame side rails.
Then, by moving the tank toward the center and dropping the outer edge
slightly, the tank may be lowered and removed with the straps still in
place attached to the braces. Use a ,9(1-inch open-end wrench for this
operation.
d. Auxiliary Fuel Tank. Two steel straps around the top of the tank
fasten into two support braces extending beneath the tank. To remove
the tank, remove seats by taking off the four wing nuts from the seat
adjuster bolts. Remove the 14 metal screws from seat riser cover panel
and remove panel. Disconnect gasoline line, using a ,'',;-inch open-end
wrench, and then disconnect wires to fuel gage. Remove the nuts and lock
washers from bottom of hold-down straps. The tank may then be lifted out.
ATMOSPHERIC
VALVE
PRESSURE
VALVE
RA PD 32295
Figure 95Fuel Tank Filler Cap
e. Filler Cap. The fuel tank filler cap is of the pressure type,
equipped with spring-loaded pressure and atmospheric valve as shown
in the cross section (fig. 95).
204
205
132
NUT
INLET
BOWL
BOWL
BOWL
VALVE
VALVE
FILTER
OUTLET
OUTLET
SCREEN
TM 9-765
RETAINER
RETAINER
SEDIMENT
DIAPHRAGM
RA PD 32296
FUEL SYSTEM
Figure 96 Fuel Pump
TM 9-765
133
133. FUEL PUMP.
a. The diaphragm-type fuel pump (fig. 96) is mounted on the right
side of the crankcase and operated from an eccentric on the camshaft.
The diaphragm is composed of several layers of specially treated cloth
which is impervious to gasoline and benzol. The cloth material is held
between two metal disks and is pushed upward by a pump spring, and
downward by the arm on camshaft. This diaphragm, in its downward
movement, causes a vacuum in the pump chamber and fuel is drawn in
through the glass bowl and strainer to fill this vacuum. The upward move-
ment of the diaphragm forces fuel to the carburetor. A lever and spring
located on the rear side of the fuel pump body is used to fill the fuel pump
and carburetor bowl in the event the truck should run out of gasoline or
the filler bowl is removed for cleaning (fig. 97).
Figure 97Filling Carburetor Bowl
RA PD 32297
b. Maintenance. The pump requires no adjustment. Working parts
are lubricated from the engine oil which comes through the opening in the
crankcase. Fuel line connector fittings should be checked regularly for
leaks. Body screws retaining the diaphragms must be kept tight to prevent
air and fuel leaks, and the mounting bolts must be tight. The glass filter
bowl is clamped to the cover assembly, making it a simple matter to detect
206
TM 9-765
133
133. FUEL PUMP.
a. The diaphragm-type fuel pump (fig. 96) is mounted on the right
side of the crankcase and operated from an eccentric on the camshaft.
The diaphragm is composed of several layers of specially treated cloth
which is impervious to gasoline and benzol. The cloth material is held
between two metal disks and is pushed upward by a pump spring, and
downward by the arm on camshaft. This diaphragm, in its downward
movement, causes a vacuum in the pump chamber and fuel is drawn in
through the glass bowl and strainer to fill this vacuum. The upward move-
ment of the diaphragm forces fuel to the carburetor. A lever and spring
located on the rear side of the fuel pump body is used to fill the fuel pump
and carburetor bowl in the event the truck should run out of gasoline or
the filler bowl is removed for cleaning (fig. 97).
Figure 97Filling Carburetor Bowl
RA PD 32297
b. Maintenance. The pump requires no adjustment. Working parts
are lubricated from the engine oil which comes through the opening in the
crankcase. Fuel line connector fittings should be checked regularly for
leaks. Body screws retaining the diaphragms must be kept tight to prevent
air and fuel leaks, and the mounting bolts must be tight. The glass filter
bowl is clamped to the cover assembly, making it a simple matter to detect
206
TM 9-765
133-134
FUEL SYSTEM
the presence of sediment in the fuel pump. Sediment bowl should be
checked and cleaned when necessary.
c. Replacement.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Wrench, box, Vi-in. Wrench, open-end, tg-in.
(2)-When pump fails to function properly, it should be replaced, fol-
lowing the procedure indicated:
(3) Disconnect fuel lines at pump, using a y'^-inch open-end wrench;
also a Vi-inch open-end wrench.
(4) Take out the two bolts that hold the fuel pump assembly to crank-
case, using a Vi-inch box wrench.
(5) When installing pump, replace gasket.
134. FUEL FILTER.
a. A fuel filter of the multiple disk type is mounted on the outside of
the right frame side rail in line with the driver compartment floor boards,
and located between the gasoline tank and fuel pump. This is an added
precaution against water or dirt reaching the carburetor.
h. Maintenance.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Pan, parts washing Wrench, open-end, s/s-in.
(2) A drain plug in the bottom of the filter bowl may be removed to
drain dirt and water from the filter. A shut-off valve is located in the
gasoline line between the gasoline tank and filter as shown in figure 98.
(3) To drain water or dirt from the filter bowl, close the shut-off valve
in the gasoline line. Then remove the drain plug and drain off any water
or dirt in the bowl. Open the shut-off valve for a second or two to flush
out the bowl. Close the valve and replace the drain plug. Then again
open the shut-off valve in the gasoline line.
(4) To clean the filter element, close the shut-off valve. Then remove
the cover bolt, using a s/s-inch open-end wrench, and remove the bowl
and filter element (fig. 99).
(5) Wash all parts of the filter in clean gasoline. The filter element
should be slushed back and forth in clean gasoline to remove any par-
ticles of dirt that might be lodged between the plates of the element.
(6) Reassemble the filter, making sure the gaskets are in good con-
dition. Then qpen the shut-off valve.
207
TM 9-765
135
135. CARBURETOR.
a. Description (fig. 100). The Carter Model W 1 downdraft car-
buretor used on this truck embodies a principle employing three Venturis,
one located above and two below the level of the fuel in the float chamber.
SHUT-OFF
VALVE
DRAIN
PLUG
RA PD 32298
Figure 98- Fuel Filter
COVER
COVER
ELEMENT ELEMENT
GASKET SPRING
BOWL
RA PD 32299
Figure 99Fuel Filter Parts
This triple venturi has the effect of increasing the suction on the first or
primary venturi, causing the nozzle to start delivering fuel at very low
air speeds. The nozzle enters the primary venturi at an angle, discharging
upwardly against the air stream. This angle secures an even flow of cor-
proportioned and finely atomized fuel.
208
TM 9-765
135
FUEL SYSTEM
THROTTLE
STOP SCREW
Figure 100 Carburetor
b. Maintenance and Replacement.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Gage, metering rod, Part Wrench, open-end, Vz-in.
#600996 Wrench, open-end, TVin.
Screwdriver
(2) The carburetor needs very little attention if properly installed
and adjusted. Check carburetor to manifold attachment and if an air
leak appears, tighten the two nuts that attach carburetor to manifold,
using a T95-inch open-end wrench, and making sure gaskets are in good
condition.
(3) IDLING. To adjust the idling mixture, proceed as follows: Open
the idle adjustment screw (fig. 100) one and one .half turns. Start the
engine and let it run at idling speed. Then adjust the idle and throttle
stop screws in combination with each other to secure the best idling per-
formance. Idling speed should be set at 500 to 550 revolutions per minute.
(4) CHOKE. The choke wire control should be checked to see that the
choke valve is fully open with the button against the panel, and fully
closed with the button fully out. To adjust, remove air cleaner and with
a screwdriver set choke control at choke valve arm.
209
TM 9-765
135-136
(5) METERING ROD. To properly synchronize the metering rod with
the throttle valve, proceed as follows: Refer to figure 101. Remove the
metering rod and disconnect the connector rod from the throttle valve
lever.
(6) Back off throttle stop screw until throttle valve is closed tightly.
(7) Install metering rod gage, allowing the metering rod pivot pin on
the lever to rest on the gage, metering rod gage, Chevrolet part number
600996.
(8) Bend connector rod at throttle valve end until connector rod
will enter hole in the lever freely.
(9) Remove metering rod gage. Assemble metering rod and metering
rod hole cover washer. Install metering rod anti-rattle spring. Install con-
nector rod and readjust the throttle stop screw three-quarters turn after
contacting stop to open throttle valve slightly.
c. Replacement. When carburetor fails to function properly and does
not respond to minor adjustments, replacement should be made following
the procedure indicated:
(1) Remove air cleaner.
(2) Disconnect control linkage and choke cable.
(3) Disconnect fuel line at carburetor, using ,'J-i-inch and Vi-inch
open-end wrenches.
(4) Remove the two carburetor mounting stud nuts, using a -,Vinch
open-end wrench.
(5) Lift carburetor from manifold.
(6) Replace unit and refer to paragraph on adjustments.
136. AIR CLEANER.
a. Description. The air which is taken into the carburetor to mix
with the fuel is thoroughly cleaned in passing through an air cleaner of
the oil bath type. This cleaner is filled to the oil level mark with an oil
of not less than SAE 50 viscosity in summer months and a lighter oil in
winter. Viscosity of the oil used in winter months will be governed by the
temperature.
b. Maintenance.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Pan, parts washing Screwdriver, 5 Vz-in.
(2) Servicing of this cleaner is an important operation and must be
210
211
136
TM 9-765
"A PO 32301
FUEL SYSTEM
CONNECTOR ROD
METERING ROD GAUGE
Figure 101-Metering Rod Adjustment
TM 9-765
136
performed as follows: Remove the air cleaner from the carburetor.
Remove the wing nut from the top and remove the cover. Remove the
filter element assembly. CAUTION: Do not pry this part loose if it
sticks. It must be removed by hand because you may damage the filter
element flange, which must lie flat against the body to insure a tight seat
at this point to prevent air leaks when the cover is assembled.
(3) Empty the oil out of the cleaner and clean out all oil and accumu-
lated dirt.
(4) Wash body with clean. SOLVENT, dry cleaning, and wipe dry.
(5) Wash filter element by slushing up and down in SOLVENT,
cleaning.
(6) Dry thoroughly either with an air hose or by letting it stand until
dry.
(7) Fill the body of the cleaner with two pints of OIL, engine,
SAE 50.
(8) It is not necessary to reoil the filter element as this is done auto-
matically when the truck is driven.
(9) Reassemble the filter element to the body of the cleaner, being
sure that the flange sets flat against the top flange of the body.
(10) Reassemble the cover, making sure that the gasket is clean and
in good condition over its entire surface so that a tight seat is obtained
at this point. Put on wing nut.
(11) Reassemble the cleaner to the carburetor. The cleaner must be
put on tight and set down so that it rests against the carburetor to assure
a good seat at this point. Tighten clamp.
212
TM 9-765
137-139
Section XXV
INSTRUMENTS AND GAGES
Paragraph
Instrument cluster 137
Temperature indicator 138
Fuel gage 139
Oil pressure gage 140
Ammeter 141
Speedometer * 142
137. INSTRUMENT CLUSTER (fig. 102).
The instrument cluster includes a temperature indicator, fuel gage, oil
pressure gage, ammeter and speedometer.
138. TEMPERATURE INDICATOR.
a. The driver should watch this instrument closely for any indication
of excessive temperature. If indicator does not register, replace with new
unit.
b. Replacement.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Wrench, open-end, 3/s-in. Wrench, open-end, %-in.
(2) Drain cooling system and remove temperature indicator fitting at
adapter at rear of motor, using a %-inch open-end wrench, and remove
indicator from dash, using a 3/s-inch wrench. Replace with new unit.
139. FUEL GAGE.
a. The gasoline gage is composed of four units: the indicating unit
which is mounted on the instrument panel, a tank unit mounted in the
main gasoline tank, a tank unit mounted in the auxiliary gasoline tank,
and a selector switch mounted on the instrument panel. This circuit is
shown in figure 103. The electrical current that operates these instruments
passes through the ignition switch and therefore the -gasoline gage will
operate only when the ignition switch is on.
b. If trouble is experienced with either the tank or dash unit, replace-
ment of the unit is the only remedy.
213
TM 9-765
139
I^
ANK SELECTOI
UJ
U>
I^
IGNITION SWIT
PANEL LIGHT S
FUEL GAGE GAS
SPEEDOMETER
CARBURETOR C
HAND THROTTl
ox ,
XO
<
mU
Si
l~i c: -
y Qi I LU ^
uj H g y ^ ^
^ ^ < -1 tij z
g'E
UJ
s^
= 5.
I- j LL, "- U _J
IIIIII
< to U Q uj u.
i;
0)
214
TM 9-765
139
r. Testing.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Screwdriver
Tester, gas gage, KMO-204 (KM)
Wrench, open-end, 3/s-in.
AMMETER
IGNITION SWITCH
CONNECTOR TANK
UNIT
SELECTOR
SWITCH
Figure 103 Fuel Gage Circuits
RA PD 32303
(2) The following is a procedure for locating trouble in the gasoline
gage, using KMO-204 gas gage tester.
(3) With ignition switch off, disconnect tank wire from back of dash
unit. This is the larger terminal.
(4) Attach the RED wire of the tester to this terminal and BLACK
wire to a good ground.
(5 ) Turn ignition switch on, move tester arm up and down. Dash unit
should register FULL and EMPTY, if it is all right. If so, turn ignition
switch off and reconnect tank wire.
(6) If dash unit does not register at all on above test, before replacing
it make certain that it is getting current from the ignition switch. This can
be quickly tested by connecting a 6-volt lamp from ignition terminal
(left-hand terminal on back of dash unit) to ground.
215
TM 9-7O3
139-140
BOMB SERVICE TRUCK M6 (Chevrolet;
(7) If dash unit is all right, next check the wiring between dash and
tank units as follows:
(8) Disconnect tank unit wire near the gas tank at the connection or
terminal junction block.
(9) Attach the RED wire of the tester to the connection running to the
dash and the BLACK wire to ground.
(10) If on this test dash unit reads EMPTY at all times or the read-
ing is noticeably lower than during the check at the dash unit, look for
shorts or leaks in the wiring between dash and tank. Leaks are most liable
to occur at terminal junctions. If dash unit reads above FULL at all
times or if it reads higher at EMPTY and FULL than reading obtained
when checking at the dash, look for poor connection or break in the wiring.
Be sure contacts are clean.
(11) If dash unit and wiring check all right, remove tank and take
out tank unit. Clean away all dirt that has collected around tank unit
terminal, as road dirt, particularly calcium chloride, causes an electrical
leak that will cause an error in reading.
(12) After cleaning thoroughly, connect tank unit to the wire leading
to dash, grounding the tank unit with a short piece of wire from the outer
edge to any part of the truck. Turn ignition switch on and move the float
arm up and down. If this unit is all right, the dash unit will give corre-
sponding EMPTY and FULL readings.
(13) If tank unit is all right, reinstall in the tank; if not, replace with
a new tank unit but first repeat above test before installing in the tank.
(14) NOTE: Always check tank units for freedom of movement
of the float arm by raising it to various positions and observing that it
will fall to the EMPTY position in every instance.
140. OIL PRESSURE GAGE.
a. The gage indicates the oil pressure in the lubrication system. The
driver should watch this instrument closely and if the indicator hand
drops to zero, the engine should be stopped immediately and the cause of
oil pressure failure investigated and corrected before continuing to run
the engine.
(1) When starting a cold engine, it will be noted that the oil gage on
the instrument panel registers a high oil pressure. As the engine warms
up, the pressure will drop until it reaches a point where changes to higher
speeds will raise the pressure very little if at all.
216
TM 9-765
140-142
(2) If the oil pressure registers abnormally high after the engine is
thoroughly warmed up, an inspection should be made to ascertain whether
the oil lines and passages are plugged. If indicator hand does not leave
zero or does not return to zero and oil pressure is all right, replace pressure
gage.
b. Replacement.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Wrench, open-end, 3/s-in. Wrench, open-end, rVin.
(2) Disconnect pressure line at gage; loosen and remove mounting
screws; remove instrument from rear and replace with new one.
141. AMMETER.
a. Description. The electro-magnetic type ammeter is used to indi-
cate whether the battery is being charged or discharged when the vehicle
is in operation. If the ammeter shows discharge at all times, the cause
should be investigated and corrected; otherwise the battery will be dis-
charged. After electrical system has been checked and ammeter found not
registering, it should be replaced.
1. Replacement.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Wrench, open-end, 3/s-in.
(2) Disconnect wires at terminals and loosen and remove mounting
nuts, using a %-inch open-end wrench. Remove instrument to front and
replace with new one.
142. SPEEDOMETER.
at Description. The speedometer indicates the speed at which the
vehicle is being driven. The odometer registers the total number of miles
the vehicle has been driven. The speedometer is driven by a flexible
drive cable which is connected into the transfer case.
217
TM 9-765
142
b. Replacement.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Jack Pliers
(2) Jack up one rear wheel of vehicle and with transfer case in rear
wheel drive only, start engine and shift transmission into gear. Discon-
nect speedometer housing at head and check to see if cable is turning.
If cable does not turn, trouble is at gears, or cable is broken, but if cable
turns, trouble is in speedometer and unit should be replaced. Remove
cable housing from speedometer head using pliers. Loosen and remove
wing nuts; remove instrument from front and replace with new one.
218
TM 9-765
143-144
Section XXVI
PROPELLER SHAFTS
Paragraph
Descriptionpropeller shaft 143
Descriptionuniversal joints 144
Propeller shaft assembly removal 146
Propeller shaft assembly overhaul 147
Propeller shaft assembly replacement 148
143. DESCRIPTIONPROPELLER SHAFT.
a. Three tubular propeller shafts are used on the bomb service truck.
One shaft provides the drive line from the transmission to the transfer
case, one from the transfer case to the rear axle and the third from the
transfer case to the front axle. The propeller shafts from the transfer
case to the front and rear axles are dimensionally the same and are
therefore interchangeable. The drive line is shown in figure 104.
b. Each of these three shafts has a splined end welded into one end
of the shaft. This provides a means of installing a slip joint. The other
end of the shaft has a universal joint yoke welded into it. These three
shafts, when fitted with the permanent and slip type universal joints,
make up the drive shaft assemblies.
144. DESCRIPTIONUNIVERSAL JOINTS.
The six universal joints are of the needle bearing type (fig. 105).
The yokes have drilled passages to the trunnions, and a central lubrica-
tion fitting on each yoke provides lubricant to all four trunnion bearings.
A special adapter is furnished with the tool kit, which should be placed
on the lubrication gun for lubricating these joints. On the yoke, opposite
the lubrication fitting, a relief valve is used to prevent overlubrication
and damage to the cork trunnion bearing seals. Each of the three slip
joints is fitted with a lubrication fitting on the splined yoke to provide
sufficient lubricant to assure free movement of the slip joint on the spline.
A plug is staked in the joint end of the splined yoke to retain the lubri-
cant and keep dirt out of the splines. A small hole is drilled in the plug
to relieve trapped air. A cork seal and screw cap is used at the other end
of the splined yoke to retain the lubricant and prevent dirt from entering
at this point (fig. 106).
&
Ul
220
144
TM 9-765
221
144
TM 9-765
PROPELLER SHAFTS
TM 9-765
145-146
Symptom
a. Vibration.
( 1) Bent propeller shaft.
(2) Shaft improperly assem-
bled.
(3) Universal joints badly
worn.
b. Excessive Backlash.
(1) Worn universal joints.
(2) Universal joint U clamps
loose.
SPLIT WASHER
Probable remedy
(1) Replace shaft.
(2) It is important that the slip
joint be installed on the
splines of the propeller
shaft with the sleeve yoke
in the same plane as the
yoke welded to the oppo-
site end of the shaft.
(3) Replace or overhaul uni-
versal joints.
(1) Replace.
(2) Tighten U clamps.
CORK SEAL
GREASE RETAINER
RA PD 32306
Figure 106Universal Slip Joint Lubricant Seal
146. PROPELLER SHAFT ASSEMBLY REMO.VAL.
a. Tool Required:
Wrench, open-end, TVin.
b. Any one of the three propeller shafts may be removed by removing
the nuts and washers from the U clamps on both joints and removing
the clamps (fig. 107).
c. Remove the U clamp nuts and remove lockwashers and U clamps.
d. Slip the spline joint onto the shaft and pull the assembly out.
222
TM 9-765
146-147
PROPELLER SHAFTS
NOTE: It is good practice when splitting these needle bearing universal
joints to leave the bearings on' the trunnions, holding them in place with
a piece of tape wrapped endwise over the bearings and trunnions. This
will keep the needle bearings clean and in place (fig. 108).
Figure 107Disconnecting Universal Joint
147. PROPELLER SHAFT ASSEMBLY OVERHAUL,
a. Disassembly.
FRONT
YOKE
TRUNNION
BEARING
'U" CLAMP
SLEEVE
YOKE
RA PD 32307
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Drift, brass, 3A-in.
Hammer
Wrench, chain grip, J-987 (KM)
Wrench, open-end, ^V-in.
(2) The slip joint may be disassembled from the propeller shaft by
unscrewing the seal retainer with a chain grip wrench and pulling the
universal joint'assembly off the splines on the propeller shaft.
(3) When necessary to replace a cork seal in the grease retainer, push
it out of the retainer and as it is split (fig. 106), it may be removed from
the propeller shaft.
(4) Remove the two loose trunnion bearings which were taped in place
when splitting the universal.
(5) Remove the lubrication fitting with a ^-inch open-end wrench.
223
TM 9-765
147
(6 ) Remove the two trunnion bearing lock rings from the ends of the
yoke with 6-inch combination pliers.
(7) Clamp the yoke in a bench vise; using a brass drift and hammer,
drive on one of the trunnion bearings until the trunnion just strikes the
lower yoke (fig. 109). This will drive the other trunnion bearing almost
out. It can be carefully removed with a pair of pliers.
SLEEVE YOKE-
RELIEF
VALVE
-TAPE
TRUNNION
-LOCK RING
TRUNNION
"BEARINGS
RA PD 37308
Figure 108 Trunnion Bearings Held in Place with Tape
( 8 ) Turn the yoke over, clamp the other side in the vise and drive on
the end of the trunnion pin until the other bearing is removed.
(9) Slide the trunnion into one side of the yoke and tip the other side
away from the yoke and lift it out of place.
h. Cleaning and Inspection.
( 1) Wash all parts in SOLVENT, dry cleaning.
(2) Inspect the needle bearing, bearing cage, trunnion cork seal and
splines for wear.
(3) Replace all damaged parts.
224
TM 9-765
147
PROPELLER SHAFTS
e. Reassembly.
( 1) Assemble the 2 7 needle bearings to each bearing cage, using light
cup grease to hold them in place.
( 2 ) Install the trunnion in the yoke.
UNIVERSAL
JOINT
YOKE
TRUNNION
RA PD 32309
Figure 109 Trunnion Removal
(3) Start one trunnion bearing into the yoke and start the yoke into
the bearing to hold the needle bearings in place.
(4) Using the bench vise as a press, force the bearing in flush with the
yoke.
(5) Start the other trunnion bearing into the yoke and enter the trun-
nion pin into it to hold the needles in place and press the bearing in flush
with the yoke.
(6) Drive or press one trunnion bearing in far enough to install the
lock ring.
(7) Drive or press the other bearing in and install the lock ring with
a pair of pliers.
225
TM 9-765
147-148
(8) Hold the joint in one hand and strike the yoke a light blow on each
side to seat the trunnion bearings against the lock rings.
(9) Check to see that the bearings are seated against the lock rings as
this provides normal clearance and prevents overheating.
(10) Install the slip joint onto the propeller shaft, making sure that
the yoke of the slip joint is in the same plane with the yoke of the joint
welded in the opposite end of the shaft. Install and tighten the oil seal
retainer with the chain grip wrench.
(11) Install the four loose trunnion bearings to the trunnions and tape
them to hold them in place.
148. PROPELLER SHAFT ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT.
a. Tools Required:
Gun, grease Wrench, open-end, -,Vin.
b. Place the propeller shaft assembly in position under the truck.
c. Remove the tape from the trunnion bearings on one joint; install the
U clamps, washers, and nuts and tighten.
d. Remove the tape from the trunnion bearings on the other joint and
slide the joint into place.
e. Install U clamps, lockwashers, and nuts. Tighten securely with a
iVinch wrench.
f. See section IV for lubrication of universal joints.
226
TM 9-765
149-150
Section XXVII
CHASSIS SHEET METAL
, Paragraph
Description 149
Front end sheet metal ASSEMBLY removal 150
Front end sheet metal ASSEMBLY replacement 151
Front fender removal 152
149. DESCRIPTION.
a. The major parts covered in this section are front and rear fenders,
running boards, hood, and hood side panels.
b. To facilitate manufacturing and service operations, the radiator
core, radiator shell, radiator guard, radiator support, fan shroud, front
fenders, head lamps, and their bracings are assembled into a unit. This unit
is called the front and sheet metal assembly.
c. This assembly is attached to the front frame cross member at the
front and to the running boards and cowl at the rear.
d. Diagonal braces running from a bracket on each side of the radiator
support to the front end of the side sill assembly adequately brace the
radiator support. The radiator support is attached to the frame cross mem-
ber through a rubber mounting. This method of mounting prevents frame
distortions from being transmitted to the front end sheet metal assembly
when the vehicle is being driven over uneven terrain. Removing this
assembly provides access to the engine for removal or major service
operations.
150. FRONT END SHEET METAL ASSEMBLY REMOVAL.
a. Tools Required:
Wrench, open-end, T7fl-in. Wrench, open-end, 7/s-in.
Wrench, open-end, Vz-in. Wrench, open-end, }jj-in.
Wrench, open-end, i%-in.
b. Remove the hood brace rod anchor screws at the cowl and the
hood hinge pins with a screwdriver, and remove the hood.
c. Remove the hood side panels with a TT5-inch open-end wrench
and screwdriver.
227
TM 9-765
150
d. With a iVinch wrench disconnect the radiator brace rod from
the radiator support and disconnect it from the cowl with a %-inch
wrench. Remove the brace rod.
e. Drain the cooling system and remove drain cock.
f. With a screwdriver disconnect the radiator hose at top and bottom
of radiator.
g. Disconnect the electrical wiring at the junction block on each side
and the blackout wires at bayonet connectors.
h. With a screwdriver and Vi-inch open-end wrench remove the
fender to running board and fender to cowl bolts on each side
RA PD 32310
Figure 110Front End Sheet Metal Removal
i. With %-inch and ]|j-inch open-end wrenches remove the bolts
which attach the radiator support diagonal braces to the frame.-
j. Using a s/s-inch Wrench remove the nuts from the lower radiator
anchorage to frame cross member bolts and remove the bolts.
228
TM 9-765
150-152
CHASSIS SHEET METAL
k. Slide the front end sheet metal assembly forward until the fan
shroud clears the fan blades and then lift the assembly off the chassis
(fig. 110).
1. If any of the individual items of this assembly require repairs or
replacement they can be removed from the assembly very easily.
151. FRONT END SHEET METAL ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT.
a. Tools Required: Use tools listed in paragraph 150 a.
b. Place the iheet metal assembly on the frame and slide it back into
position, making sure the shroud clears the fan to prevent damaging the
fan, shroud, or radiator core.
c. Line up the holes in the radiator anchorage, rubber mounting, and
frame cross member. Install the bolts and nuts, and with a s/s-inch open-
end wrench tighten the nuts.
d. Using a screwdriver and V^-inch wrench install and tighten the
fender to cowl and fender to running board bolts.
e. Replace the electrical wiring at the junction blocks and bayonet
connections.
f. Install the bolts which attach the diagonal braces to frame and
with %-inch and -|-#-inch wrenches tighten them securely.
g. Install the upper and lower radiator hose and clamps. Tighten the
clamps securely.
h. Fill the cooling system and check for leaks.
i. Install the radiator brace rod and with a y^-inch wrench tighten
the brace rod to radiator anchorage bolts. With a s/s-inch wrench adjust
and tighten the brace rod to cowl retaining nuts.
j. Using a fg-inch open-end wrench and screwdriver, install and
tighten the hood side panels.
k. Replace the hood; install the hood hinge pins and hood brace rod
to cowl screws.
152. FRONT FENDER REMOVAL.
a. Tools Required:
Wrench, open-end, iVin. Wrench, open-end, iVin.
229
TM 9-765
152
b. Raise the hood and insert pin in hood brace to lock the hood up.
c. Disconnect electrical wiring at junction block and blackout wire
at bayonet connector.
d. With a -,Vinch end wrench and screwdriver remove the front
and rear hood side panels.
e. With a Vi-inch end wrench and screwdriver remove the fender to
running board and fender to cowl bolts.
f. Using a Vi-inch wrench remove the bolts which attach the fender to
the radiator guard.
g. Remove the fender and skirt assembly.
h. The skirt may be removed from the fender by removing the stove
bolts with a T%-inch wrench and screwdriver.
i. For headlight removal, replacement, and adjustment see section
XX of this manual.
j. The fender replacement is the reverse of removal.
230
IIVl V-/OS
153-154
Section XXVIII
SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS
Paragraph
Description 153
Front springs 155
Rear springs 156
Spring shackles and attaching parts 157
Shock absorber 158
153. DESCRIPTION
a. Front Springs. The eight leaf front springs are of the semielliptic
type, 40 inches long and 2 inches wide. Bronze bushings are pressed'
into the eye at each end as a bearing for the shackle pin and eyebolt.
A Berlin eye is formed at the rear of the second leaf as a safety measure
in the event the top leaf should break. The spring is shackled at the
front.
b. Rear Springs. The rear springs are also of the semielliptic type,
having 10 leaves and being 45 J inches long and 2l/a inches wide.
Bronze bushings are pressed into the eye on each end as in the front
springs. The spring is shackled at the rear.
c. Shackles and Eyebolts. The shackles at the front of the front
springs and the rear of the rear springs are interchangeable as are the
shackle pins, eyebolts, lock bolts and nuts.
d. Shock Absorbers. Double acting, opposed cylinder shock ab-
sorbers are used at the front and rear of the vehicle. They should be
kept filled with light shock absorber fluid.
a. Hard Riding.
(1) Insufficient lubrication. (1) Lubricate.
(2) Broken shackle pin. (2) Replace shackle pin.
(3) Broken spring eye. (3) Replace spring.
(4) Broken spring hanger. (4) Replace hanger.
(5) No shock absorber action. (5) Refill or replace.
(6) Weak shock absorber (6) Replace shock absorber,
valves.
(7) Shock absorber leaks. (7) Replace shock absorber.
231
iivi
154-155
NOTE: Overloading and uneven load distribution are possible causes
of hard riding.
Symptom
b. Over-flexibility.
(1) Broken spring leaves.
(2) Excessive lubrication.
(3) Shock absorber low on
fluid.
c. Improper Steering.
(1) Wandering.
d. Excessive Noise.
(1) Worn shackle pin.
(2) Worn bushing.
(3) Loose spring clips.
(4) Broken spring eye.
(5) Broken leaves.
(6) Broken shackle pin.
Probable remedy
( 1) Replace spring.
(2) Wash with solvent.
(3) Refill.
( 1) Spring center bolt sheared
and axle shifted. Replace
center bolt and relocate
in seat.
(1) Replace shackle pin.
(2). Replace bushing.
(3) Tighten clips.
(4) Replace spring.
(5) Replace spring.
(6) Replace shackle pin.
155. FRONT SPRINGS.
a. Spring Removal.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Hammer
Jack
Punch, Vz-in.
Stand, jack
Wrench, open-end, j\-in.
Wrench, open-end, ^,-in.
(2 ) Raise front of truck and support at the frame with jack stand.
(3) Remove the lock bolt and nut from the eyebolt at the rear of
the spring.
(4) Disconnect the rear end of the spring from the frame hanger by
driving the pin (eyebolt) out of the hanger and spring eye.
(5) Remove the lock bolt and nut from the lower shackle pin at
the front end of the spring.
(6) Drive out the shackle pin to disconnect the front end of the
spring from the shackle.
(7) Remove the four U bolt nuts and lockwashers from the two
U bolts retaining the center of the spring to the axle.
232
155-156
(8) Move the shock absorber link and bracket that was disconnected
from the top of the spring by the removal of the U bolts, up out of
the way.
(9) The spring can now be lifted off the axle.
b. Spring Replacement.
(1) Place spring in position on the spring saddle, being sure that the
safety eye on the second leaf is toward the rear of the truck.
(2) Place shock absorber bracket in position on top of the spring.
(3) Install U bolts, lockwashers and retaining nuts.
(4) Install pin at rear of spring and shackle pin at the front, being
sure to line up the groove for the lock bolt. Install lock bolts and nuts.
(5) Lubricate the pins through fittings.
RA PD 323>1
Figure 111 Shackle Pin Removal
156. REAR SPRINGS,
a. Spring Removal.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Hammer
Jack
Punch, Vz-in.
Stand, jack
Wrench, open-end,
Wrench, open-end,
Wrench, open-end,
j-m.
Hn.
233
156
(2) Raise rear end of truck and support the frame with jack stand.
(3) Remove lock bolt and nut from the eyebolt at the front of the
spring.
(4) Drive the pin out through the hole provided in the frame side
rail (fig. 111). NOTE: When removing the pin from the right spring,
it may be necessary to loosen the gas tank straps and slide the tank
forward slightly to provide clearance between the back of the tank and
the frame cross member.
(5 ) Remove lock bolt from lower shackle pin at the rear of the spring.
(6) Drive out the shackle pin.
RA PD 32312
Figure 112 Installing Rear Spring
(7) Disconnect the spring from its seat on the housing by removing
the two U bolts.
(8) Move shock absorber arm and link up out of the way.
(9) Remove spring.
234
TM 9-765
156
c. Spring Replacement.
(1) Place spring in position on axle seat alining dowel pin with hole
in seat (fig. 112).
(2) Move shock absorber bracket into place and install the two
U bolts, U bolt lockwashers and nuts.
(3) Drive pin through frame hanger and eye at front of spring,
lining up the lock bolt groove.
(4) Install lock bolt.
(5) Drive shackle pin into place at the rear of the spring and install
lock bolt.
SHACKLE
SPRING EYE
LUBRICATION
FITTING
RA PD 32313
Figure 113Spring Shackle
(6) Lubricate pins and lower truck to ground. NOTE: Be sure to
relocate gas tank and tighten straps if it was moved during right spring
replacement.
235
TM 9-765
156
SHOCK ABSORBER ARM 1
SHOCK ABSORBER
ATTACHING BOLTS
BSORBER LINK ANCHOR BOLT PLA
RA PD 32314
Figure 1 14 Shock Absorber
236
TM 9-765
157-158
157. SPRING SHACKLES AND ATTACHING PARTS (fig. 113).
a. Eyeholt Replacement.
(1) Replace eyebolt on front springs as outlined in paragraph 155 a
(1) to (4).
(2) Replace eyebolt on rear springs as outlined in paragraph 155 a,
(1) to (4)Rear spring removal.
b. Shackle Replacement.
(1) Disconnect spring eye from shackle by removing lock bolt and
driving the pin out as outlined in paragraphs 155 a, 156 a, (1), (2), (5)
and (6) under Spring Removal.
(2) Remove lock bolt from upper shackle pin and drive the pin out
through the opening provided in the frame.
(3) The shackle can now be removed from the frame hanger.
(4) To install a new hanger, reverse the removal procedure.
158. SHOCK ABSORBER (fig. 114).
a. Checking Operation.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Pliers Wrench, open-end, ji-in.
(2) Remove nut and lockwasher from bottom of connecting link.
(3) Remove connecting link from anchor.
(4) Move connecting link up and down slightly to determine tightness
of bushings or wear in link pins or link pin holes.
( 5 ) Check link or bushing wear by twisting link with pliers or by prying
link connection with screwdriver. Outward appearances of bushing or
linkage will usually disclose excessive wear.
( 6 ) Replace link if parts are faulty.
(7) Pull shock absorber arm down with a steady but hard pull. If arm
comes down easily part way, then moves slowly the rest of the way, there is
not enough fluid in the shock absorber. See d below.
( 8 ) When operating properly, the shock absorber arm requires a steady
hard push or pull to move the arm to top or bottom.
(9) If shock absorber does not operate as outlined in the above para-
graph, replace the shock absorber.
237
TM 9-765
158
(10) Replace any shock absorber that leaks fluid. See b and c below.
(11) If shock absorber "grunts" or is noisy, it should be replaced.
b. Removing Shock Absorber.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Wrench, open-end, iJ-in. Wrench, open-end, ii-in.
(2) Remove nut and lockwasher from lower end of shock absorber
connecting link.
(3) Remove connecting link from anchor.
(4) Remove the two nuts and lockwashers from the shock absorber
attaching bolts which are inside the frame channel.
(5) Remove shock absorber.
c. Replacing Shock Absorber.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Wrench, open-end, H-in. Wrench, open-end, {|-in.
( 2 ) Place shock in place on frame.
(3) Install the two nuts and bolts on the shock absorber attaching
bolts which are on the inside of the frame channel.
(4) Install the connecting link in the anchor and install the nut and
lockwasher.
d. To Fill Shock Absorbers With Fluid.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Injector, fluid, KMO-1026 (KM) Wrench, open-end. l/z-m.
(2) Clean all dirt from around filler plug.
(3) Remove filler plug.
(4) With fluid injector, fill to capacity with light shock absorber fluid.
(5 ) Work arm up and down by bouncing car while adding fluid, or dis-
connect link at axle and operate arm up and down while filling.
CAUTION: Shock absorber must not be filled completely full but
approximately 10 percent air space must be provided, as over-filling
may result in blowing out the cover gasket. After filling to capacity,
extract a quantity of fluid equal to 10 percent of the amount the
absorber will hold.
(6) Replace filler plug, using new gasket.
238
TM 9-765
159-160
Section XXIX
STEERING GEAR
Paragraph
Description 159
Maintenance and adjustment 161
159. DESCRIPTION.
a. The steering gear is of the recirculating ball type, having a reduction
ratio of 23.6 to 1. A ball nut with two separate circuits of ball bearings
operates on the helical groove machined in the main shaft. The rack teeth
of the ball nut mesh with the sector teeth of the pitman shaft, to which is
attached the pitman arm. When the steering wheel is turned, the helical
grooves on the main shaft cause the ball bearings to climb up or down the
path carrying with them the ball nut The rack teeth on the ball nut cause
the sector teeth on the pitman shaft to follow them, thus turning the pitman
shaft and moving the pitman arm.
b. The steering connecting rod is of the ball and socket type, having
identical ball seats, springs and adjusting plugs on the ends. The safety
plugs in each end, however, are of different lengths.
c. The steering wheel is of the three-spoke type, having a diameter of
20 inches. The wheel is serrated to the main shaft and held in place with
a retaining nut.
16O. TROUBLE SHOOTING.
a. Hard Steering.
(1) Lack of lubrication. (1) Lubricate steering gear,
tie rod ends and steering
connecting rod ball joints.
(2) Tie rod and bolts too tight. (2) Readjust.
(3) Under-inflated tires. (3) Innate to proper pressure
(55 Ibs.).
(4) Improper steering gear (4) Readjust. See paragraph
adjustment. 161.
(5) Improper caster, camber (5) Check and correct or re-
and toe-in. port to higher authority.
239
TM 9-765
160-161
Symptom
b. Loose Steering.
(1) Improper steering gear
adjustment.
(2) Loose ball joints.
(3) Worn steering arm
bushings.
f. Shimmy.
( 1) Loose steering.
(2) Wheel balance.
d. Side Pull.
(1) Improper camber or
caster.
(2) Unequal tire inflation.
(3) Dragging brakes.
(4) Tight wheel bearing.
(5) Improper tracking.
e. Wander or Weaving.
(1) Improper caster.
(2) Excessive tightness in
system.
f. Road Shock.
(1) Improper steering con-
necting rod adjustment.
(2) Incorrect shock absorber
action.
(3) Steering gear improperly
adjusted.
Probable remedy
(1) Adjust according to in-
structions in paragraph
161.
(2) Readjust.
(3) Replace bushings.
(1) See paragraph b above.
(2) See section XXXII.
(3) Refer to section XI.
(1) Report to higher
authority.
(2) Inflate to correct pressure
(55 Ibs.).
(3) Readjust according to in-
structions given in para-
graph 54.
(4) Readjust. See paragraph
174.
( 5 ) Report to higher
authority.
authority.
(2) Check and readjust or
lubricate.
(3) Refer to paragraph 40.
(1) Readj ust end plugs accord-
ing to instructions in para-
graph 161.
(2) See paragraph 158.
(3) Readjust.
161. MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT,
a. Locating Source of Trouble.
(1) Disconnect the steering connecting rod from the pitman arm. The
240
TM 9-765
161
STEERING GEAR
steering gear is designed to have no backlash through the center position
and but slight backlash at each end of travel. Turn the steering wheel and
if any excessive binding or looseness is found, the trouble may be assumed
to be in the steering gear. An easy way to check for proper steering gear
adjustment is with the use of a checking scale. The pull at the wheel rim
through the center position should be between 2 and 21/2 pounds.
(2 ) If the steering gear is found to be correctly adjusted, then it will be
necessary to check wheel alinement, wheel bearing adjustment, steering
knuckle adjustment and tire inflation.
b. Steering Gear Adjustment. There are two adjustments to the
steering gear and they MUST be made in the order shown in the
following paragraphs.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Pliers
Scale, checking, J-544 (KM)
Screwdriver
Screwdriver, offset
Wrench, Vi-in.
Wrench, s/s-in.
Wrench, 11/s-in.
Wrench, open-end, 23/4-in.
LASH
ADJUSTER
LOCK
NUT
Figure 115Pitman Shaft Adjustment
(2) Disconnect steering connecting rod from the pitman arm by
removing the end plug with a wide screwdriver and pulling the socket
off the pitman arm ball.
(3) Loosen the mast jacket to instrument panel bracket with a
Vi-inch wrench, making sure there is no bind due to the anchorage.
241
TWl 9-765
161
(4) With a s/s-inch wrench, loosen the lock nut (fig. 115), and turn
the lash adjuster a few turns in a counterclockwise direction with an
offset screwdriver. This removes the worm bearing load imposed by
close meshing of rack and sector teeth. Turn steering wheel slowly in one
direction until stopped by gear. Then back away one turn. CAUTION:
Do not turn steering wheel hard against stops when steering connecting
rod is disconnected, as damage to the ball guides may result.
(5) Using checking scale, measure the pull at the rim of wheel
required to keep wheel in motion. This should be between 1 and IVz
pounds. NOTE: When making this check, it is important that the line
of the scale be kept at right angles to the spoke of the wheel (fig. 116).
If the pull necessary to move the wheel does not lie between the above
limits, it will be necessary to adjust the worm bearings.
CHECKING SCALE
DA PD 3231*
Figure 116Checking Steering Gear Adjustment
(6) Loosen worm bearing thrust screw lock nut (fig. 117) with a
2%-inch wrench and turn worm bearing thrust screw until there is no
end play in worm. Check the pull at wheel rim as outlined in b ( 5 ) above,
readjusting, if necessary, to obtain proper pull as it must be between the
limits specified after lock nut is tightened. If the gear feels "lumpy" after
242
161
STEERING GEAR
LOCK THRUST,
/WORM BEARINOS\NUT \ SCREW
MAIN SHAFT
PITMAN
SHAFT
RA PD 32317
Figure 117Worm Shaft Adjustment
adjustment of worm bearings, there is probably damage in the bearings
due to severe impact or to improper adjustment, and the assembly must
be torn down for replacement of damaged parts. In this event, replace the
steering gear assembly as a unit.
(7) Check alinement of assembly by tightening the mounting bolt
nuts on the mast jacket clamp to instrument panel with a Vi-inch
wrench. Then check the pull at the wheel rim and if it has increased
over the previous reading, then the steering column was sprung in
tightening it to the instrument panel. If this condition is encountered,
it will be necessary to again loosen the mounting bolt nuts in the mast
jacket clamp and loosen the steering gear to frame side rail mounting
bolts with a 1Vs-inch wrench. Then shift the assembly slightly to line
up the steering column. Again tighten all mounting bolts and recheck
rim pull.
(8) Locate center of sector shaft travel by turning the steering wheel
gently from one stop to the other, while counting the number of steering
wheel turns. Then turn wheel back one-half the number of turns and
mark the wheel at top or bottom with a piece of tape. Turn lash
adjuster (fig. 115), clockwise to take out. all lash in gear teeth, and
tighten lock nut with a s/s-inch wrench. Check pull at wheel rim with
checking scale as before, taking the highest reading of the checking
scale as the wheel is turned through center position. This should be
243
l/Vl V-/CO
161-162
between 2 and 2 Vi pounds. Readjust, if necessary, to obtain proper pull.
Tighten lock nut and recheck pull.
(9) Reassemble steering connecting rod to pitman arm and adjust
according to instructions given in this section.
c. Steering Connecting Rod Replacement.
(1) Remove cotter pins from adjusting plugs in each end of rod.
(2) With a wide screwdriver remove adjusting plugs, safety plugs,
tension springs and ball seats.
(3) The steering connecting rod can then be removed from the
third arm and pitman arm.
(4) To replace, install one ball seat in the offset end of the steering
connecting rod and place that end over the ball on the third arm. The
other ball seat, spring, short safety plug and adjusting plug should be
installed in the order mentioned.
(5) At the pitman arm end, install the spring, long safety plug and
one ball seat in the end of the rod. Then place the rod in position over
the ball of the pitman arm. Install the remaining ball seat and adjusting
plug. Figure 118 shows a layout of the steering connecting rod parts.
PITMAN ARM END
5 3 3 ;= i
65532
Figure 118 Steering Connecting Rod
(6) To adjust the ball joints, screw end plugs in tight and back off
one-half to one full turn. Lock the plugs with new cotter pins.
If the steering gear is damaged, it should be replaced as a unit.
a. Tools Required:
Pliers Scale, checking, J-544 (KM)
Puller, pitman arm, J-1376-G Screwdriver
(KM) Wrench, l/a-in.
Puller, steering wheel, J-1618 Wrench, 1Vs-in.
(KM) Wrench, PA-in.
h. Remove the two screws that retain the horn button and remove
button and horn button spring.
244
TM 9-765
162
STEERING GEAR
c. Remove steering wheel retaining nut with a IVi-inch wrench.
Screw steering wheel puller adapter on end of shaft and assemble steering
wheel puller J-1618 to steering wheel. Turning the puller screw will re-
move the wheel. Remove wheel key and upper bearing tension spring.
rl. With a Vi-inch wrench remove the nuts from the mast jacket to
instrument panel clamp.
e. Remove the floor and toeboards. Then remove the clevis pin from
brake pedal pull rod at master cylinder. The pedal may then be pulled
back to provide clearance for removing the gear.
f. Remove the horn wire terminal plate from the mast jacket by re-
moving the two attaching screws.
g. Disconnect steering connecting rod from pitman arm. With a 11A-
inch wrench remove pitman arm nut and then remove pitman arm, using
arm puller J-1376-G (fig. 119).
PULLER
STEERING
GEAR
MOUNTING
BOLTS
PITMAN
ARM
CONNECTING
ROD
RA PD 32319
Figure 119Pitman Arm Removal
h. With a IVs-inch wrench remove the four steering gear to frame
mounting bolts and remove the gear through the left door of the truck.
245
162
i. Install the new steering gear assembly in place and install the mount-
ing bolts. Leave the bolts loose enough so that the gear assembly can be
moved to aline the steering column at the instrument panel.
j. Line up steering column so that there will be no bind on the shaft
after installing retaining bracket. Install bracket and tighten the two clamp
retaining nuts with a Vi-inch wrench. Tighten the four steering gear to
frame mounting bolts with a 1 Vs-inch wrench.
k. With the checking scale, check to make sure the adjustment is
within 2 to 2Vi pounds pull as outlined under paragraph 161 b (8) of
this section. If it is not, then a bind has been put on the shaft when in-
stalling the assembly.
1. Line up marks on pitman arm and end of sector shaft and install
pitman arm. Tighten pitman arm nut with a IVi-inch wrench. Install
steering connecting rod and adjust according to instructions given in
this section.
m. Replace horn wire terminal plate, steering wheel, and horn button.
Replace brake pedal pull rod and install floor and toeboards.
n. Lubricate steering gear according to instructions in section IV.
246
163-164
i in
Section XXX
TRANSFER CASE
Paragraph
Description 163
Shifter shaft control rod adjustment 166
163. DESCRIPTION.
a. The transfer case is a two-speed gear box mounted in the frame
between the transmission and rear axle. It provides a drive for the front
and rear axles.
b. Two shift levers in the driver's compartment, to the right of the
transmission lever, provide a means of selecting the transfer case drive
desired. The lever to the left provides high, neutral or low range while
the lever to the right provides a means of shifting to four wheel or two
wheel drive. See figure 4 for shift lever positions.
c. The shift lever linkage is so designed that the transfer case can be
shifted to four wheel or two wheel drive when the transfer case is in high
gear; however, when the transfer case is in low speed range, the vehicle
must be in four wheel drive.
d. The transfer case low speed gear reduction is 1.94 to 1.
a. The most common abuses the transfer case is subjected to are exces-
sive use of four wheel drive and improper gear shifting.
b. The vehicle should normally be used in two wheel drive. Four wheel
drive should only be used when more power or traction is required than
would be possible with two wheel drive. The operator should follow the
gear shifting instructions given in paragraph 7.
c. Any unusual or abnormal noise which is traced to the transfer case
should be investigated.
d. Noise.
(1) Transfer case loose in (1) Tighten the eight bolts
frame. that hold the transfer case
to frame bracket.
247
164
BOMB SERVICE TRUCK MA (Chevrolet)
Symptom
(2) Insufficient lubricant.
(3) Broken bearing caps.
(4) Loose bearing caps.
(5 ) Front axle engaged on
hard surface roads.
(6) Worn bearings.
( 7 ) Worn or damaged gears.
(8) Worn or loose speedom-
eter gears.
e. Lubricant Leaks.
(1) Transfer case vent plugged
up.
(2) Loose bearing retainer
bolts.
(3) Damaged bearing retainer
gaskets.
(4) Cracked transfer case.
(5) Filler or drain plug not
properly installed.
(6) Cover bolts loose.
( 7 ) Drive flange seals damaged
due to improper installa-
tion or foreign material.
(8) Drive flange retaining nuts
not properly tightened.
f. Slipping Out of Gear.
(1) Shift lock springs weak or
broken.
(2) Shift lock balls sticking.
(3) Improperly adjusted
shifter shaft pull rods.
(4) Misalinement of the main
shaft extension.
Probable Remedy
(2 ) Add lubricant as instructed
in section IV.
authorities.
(4) Tighten bearing cap
Retaining screws.
(5) Shift into two wheel drive.
(6) Report.
(7) Report.
(8) Report.
(1) Replace vent.
(2) Tighten bolts.
(3) Report.
(4) Replace transfer case
assembly.
(5) Install properly.
(6) Tighten cover bolts.
(7) Report.
(8) Tighten nuts securely and
install new cotter pins.
(1) Report.
(2) Report.
(3) Adjust pull rods.
(4) Report.
248
TM 9-765
165
TRANSFER CASE
a. Removal.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Gun, grease
Jack, roller, 41-J-73-5
Pan, drain
(2) Place drain pan under the transfer case and remove filler and
drain plugs with a TVinch wrench. After lubricant has drained out,
install filler and drain plugs.
RA PD 32320
Figure 120 Transfer Case Removal
(3) With a -^j-inch ratchet wrench remove the nuts and lockwashers
from the U clamps which retain the universal joint trunnion bear-
ings to all three propeller shaft driving flanges. NOTE: It is good
practice when splitting these needle bearing universal joints to leave
the bearings on the trunnions, holding them in place with a piece of tape
wrapped endwise over the bearings and trunnion. This will keep the
needle bearings clean and in place (fig. 108).
249
I ITl T-/O3
165-166
(4) Remove the cotter pins and clevis pins; disconnect the shifter
pull rods at the transfer case end.
(5) With a pair of pliers disconnect the speedometer cable from the
speedometer driven gear.
(6) Place a roller jack under the transfer case, from right side of
truck, and raise the jack to support the unit (fig. 120). Remove the
locking wire and the eight cap screws that attach the transfer case to
the frame brackets using a %-inch wrench. Support the transfer case
while the jack is being lowered. Pull the jack and transfer' case out
from under the truck.
b. Replacement.
(1) Place the transfer case on a roller jack. Run it under the truck
from the right side and raise the jack until the transfer case is in posi-
tion. Using a taper punch, line up the holes and install eight transfer
cases to frame bracket bolts. Tighten the bolts with a %-inch wrench.
Install locking wire in bolts.
(2) Connect speedometer cable to speedometer driven gear in trans-
fer case idler shaft front retainer.
(3) Connect the shifter shaft pull rods to the shifter shafts and
install clevis pins and cotter pins.
(4) Connect the three universal joints to the transfer case driven
flanges by placing the tri' -nion bearings in the bearing seats, installing
the U clamps, lockwashers, ind nuts. Tighten securely with a T%-inch
open-end wrench.
(5) Remove filler plug with a T85-inch wrench and fill transfer case to
correct level. Refer to section IV of this manual. Install filler plug and
tighten the filler and drain plugs.
166. SHIFTER SHAFT CONTROL ROD ADJUSTMENT.
a. Tools Required:
Pliers, combination, 6-in. Wrench, open-end, s/s-in.
b. Remove cotter pin and clevis pin from adjusting eye at transfer
case shifter shaft end of control rod.
c. With a %-inch wrench, loosen adjusting eye lock nut.
cl. Shift transfer case shifter shaft into gear so that lock ball drops
into groove in shaft holding shaft in position.
e. Place shift lever in position to correspond with the gear to which
the transfer case was shifted.
f. Turn adjusting eye until shaft is correct length for clevis pin to
drop through adjusting eye and shifter shaft.
g. Tighten adjusting eye lock nut with a %-inch wrench.
h. Install clevis pins and cotter pins.
250
TM 9-765
167-168
Section XXXI
TRANSMISSION
Paragraph
Description 167
Cover replacement 169
Transmission replacement 170
167. DESCRIPTION.
a. The selective sliding gear type transmission used in the bomb serv-
ice truck incorporates four forward speeds and one reverse speed. Provi-
sion is made on the left side of the case for mounting a power take-off when
a winch or hoist is to be used.
b. The transmission is bolted to the clutch housing and becomes a part
of the unit power plant assembly. The emergency brake and transfer case
shift levers are mounted on the right side of the transmission.
c. Transmission Gear Reduction.
(1) Low or first: 7.06 to 1.
(2) Second: 3.48 to 1.
(3) Third: 1.71 to.l.
(4) High is direct drive.
(5) Reverse: 6.98 to 1.
a. General. Before deciding that major service will be required, an
accurate check should be made to determine that the trouble is in the
transmission. The vehicle should be driven at various speeds and special
attention given to the speed, gear ratio, and power applied when the con-
dition being investigated is most pronounced. If it cannot be definitely
isolated in any one unit, it may be advisable to jack up the rear wheels
and, with the transfer case in high and two wheel drive, reproduce the
driving conditions which produced the most noise, and check the drive line
to isolate the noise.
b. Noises.
(1) Insufficient lubricant. (1) Fill to correct level accord-
ing to instructions in sec-
tion IV.
251
TM 9-765
168-169
Symptom
(2) Bent shifter forks.
(3) Universal joint front yoke
retainer cap screw loose.
(4) Worn or broken bearings.
(5) Badly worn gears.
(6) Gear teeth chipped.
(7) Worn reverse idler gear
bushing.
c. Jumping Out of Gear.
(1) Transmission to clutch
housing bolts loose.
(2) Worn gears.
(3) Shift lock springs weak or
broken.
(4) Bent shifter fork.
(5) Misalinement of trans-
mission.
Probable remedy
( 2 ) Replace cover assembly.
(3) Tighten securely.
(4) Replace transmission or
report to higher authori-
ties.
report.
report.
report.
(1) Tighten bolts.
report.
(3) Replace transmission
cover or report.
(4) Replace transmission
cover or report.
(5) Report.
d. Difficulty in Shifting to Low or Reverse.
(1) Worn or bent gear shift (1) Replace transmission
interlock guide plate.
(2) Worn reverse lock sleeve
on lower end of gear shift
lever.
cover or report.
(2 ) Replace gear shift lever or
sleeve.
169. COVER REPLACEMENT,
a. Removal.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Handle, speed
Screwdriver, 6-in.
Socket, TVin,
(2) Remove the gear shift lever by installing the gear shift lever
252
TM 9-765
169
TRANSMISSION
remover as shown in figure 120A. Turn the remover until the lugs engage
the slots in the lever retainer. Push down on the remover and turn it
slightly to the left. This disengages the lugs and the lever assembly can be
raised out of the cover.
RA PD 32237
Figure 120A Removing Gear Shift Lever
(3) Remove floor board screws with a screwdriver and remove floor
board.
(4) Remove brake pedal pull back spring from transmission cover.
(5) With a TVinch speed wrench remove the six cap screws which
retain the transmission cover and lift cover off transmission.
b. Cover Installation.
(1) Make sure the shifter forks in the cover are in neutral position.
(2) Place the transmission gears in neutral position.
(3) Lower the cover straight down on the transmission, being careful
not to tip the cover. This places the shifting forks in the grooves of their
respective gears (fig. 121).
253
TM 9-765
169
THIRD AND HIGH REVERSE SHIFTING.FIRST AND SECOND
SHIFTING FORK FORK SHIFTING FORK
RA PD 32321
Figure 121 Installing Transmission Cover
254
TM 9-765
169-170
TRANSMISSION
(4) Install the six cap screws which retain the cover and tighten with
a -,Vincn speed wrench.
(5) Install the gear shift lever, making sure the lower end of the lever
enters the slots in the forks. Place the gear shift lever remover in position
as shown in figure 120A. Press down on the tool and turn it to the right to
lock the lever in position.
(6) Check the gear shift to all gear positions.
( 7 ) Hook brake pull back spring to clip at left rear cover belt.
(8) Install floor boards and replace attaching screws.
170. TRANSMISSION REPLACEMENT,
a. Removal.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Handle, ratchet Socket, Vi-in.
Pan, drain Socket, iVin.
Pliers, combination, 6-in. Socket, %-in.
Screwdriver, 6-in. Wrench, open-end, -rVin.
(2 ) Remove floor board screws and floor board.
(3) Remove transmission drain plug with a /y-inch wrench, drain
transmission and install plug.
(4) With a jVinch speed wrench remove transfer case control
levers and emergency brake lever attaching bolts on right side of trans-
mission.
(5) Disconnect power plant brace rod at transmission end with a
T\-tnch wrench.
(6) Disconnect pull back spring at left rear corner of transmission.
(7) Remove the nuts and lock washers from the U clamps which
retain the trunnion bearings to the front yoke of the universal joint
with a 19w-inch open-end wrench. Then remove the U clamps. Slide
the rear yoke of the joint back on the splines of the propeller shaft.
(8) It is good practice when splitting these'needle bearing universal
joints to have the bearings on the trunnions, -holding them in place with
a piece of tape wrapped endwise over the bearings. This prevents dirt
getting into the bearings and keeps them in place.
(9) Remove the screws which retain the flywheel underpan and
remove the pan.
(10) With a %-inch ratchet wrench remove the two bottom attach-
ing bolts by reaching in through the bottom of the clutch housing.
Remove the two upper attaching bolts.
(11) Slide the transmission back to clear the splines in the clutch
255
256
170
TM 9-765
RA PD 32322
Figure 122Transmission Removal
TM 9-765
170
TRANSMISSION
disk and lower the transmission to the floor (fig. 122). NOTE: It is very
important that the weight of the transmission be supported until the
end of the clutch gear splines are out of the splines in the clutch disk.
b. Transmission Installation.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Handle, ratchet Socket, Vi-in.
Pan, drain Socket, TVin.
Pliers, combination, 6-in. Socket, %-in.
Screwdriver, 6-in. Wrench, open-end, i%-in.
(2) Clean the machined surface of transmission and clutch housing.
(3) Place the transmission under the truck and raise the transmis-
sion until the main drive gear shaft lines up with splines in clutch.
Work transmission forward into place, being careful not to release the
weight of the transmission until it is up against the clutch housing.
(4) Install the two upper transmissions to clutch housing bolts. In-
stall the two lower transmissions to clutch housing bolts and tighten all
bolts securely with a %-inch ratchet wrench.
(5) Install the clutch housing underpan and tighten the screws
securely.
(6) Place the propeller shaft slip joint in position against the flange.
Install the U clamps, lockwashers, and nuts. Tighten the nuts securely
with a -,9ff-inch open-end wrench.
(7) Hook up the brake pedal pull back spring.
(8) Attach the power plant brace rod and tighten the attaching bolt
with a TVinch wrench.
(9) Replace the emergency brake lever and transfer case shift levers,
install the retaining bolts and tighten them with a T9g-inch wrench.
(10) Fill the transmission case to correct level. See section IV.
Lubricate universal joint which was disassembled.
(11) Replace floor boards and install the retaining screws.
257
TM 9-765
171-172
Section XXXII
WHEELS, WHEEL BEARINGS, TIRES
Paragraph
Description 171
Wheel and tire replacement 173
Wheel bearings 174
171. DESCRIPTION.
a. Single wheels, front and rear, are normally used on this vehicle;
however, provision is made for the installation of dual wheels either
front or rear as the occasion may demand.
b. The wheels are held in place by inner and outer retaining nuts.
When single wheels are installed, the outer nut should be kept tightened
against the inner nut to prevent loss.
c. The wheel size is 20 x 7 and the tire size 7.50 x 20. Tire pressure,
front and rear, is 55 pounds.
d. Timken roller bearings are used at the front wheels and Hyatt
roller bearings of the barrel type are used at the rear wheels.
Symptom
a. Hard Steering.
(1) Tires under-inflated.
(2) Wheel bearings out of
adjustment.
(3) Wheel bearing scored or
seized.
(4) Lack of lubrication.
(5) Steering knuckle bearings
improperly adjusted.
(6) Improper steering
adjustment.
b. Air Leakage.
(1) Tube leaks.
Probable remedy
(1) Inflate to 55 pounds.
(2) Readjust.
(3) Replace.
(4) Lubricate steering gear,
steering connecting rod
and tie rod fittings.
authority.
(6) See steering adjustment,
section XXIX.
(1) Check for slow leaks in
tube.
258
TM 9-765
172-173
(2) Valve cap missing. (2) Install new cap.
(3) Valve core loose. (3) Tighten.
(4) Valve core damaged. (4) Replace core.
c. Uneven Tire Wear.
(1) Irregular. (1) Interchange tires to
compensate.
(2) Side wear. (2) (a) Check for improper
camber.
(b) Underinflation.
(c) Sharp turns at high
speeds.
(d) High crown roads.
(3) Excessive wear. (3) Check for improper toe-in.
173. WHEEL AND TIRE REPLACEMENT.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
a. Removal.
Irons, tire Screwdriver, heavy
Jack, 41-J-73-5 Wrench, wheel hub nut
(2) Set truck on a level spot and loosen the wheel retaining nuts.
(3) Raise truck and remove the retaining nuts with the hub nut
wrench.
(4) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(5) Deflate tire COMPLETELY.
(6) Force one side of the clamp ring toward the center of the wheel
until it drops into the groove in the wheel.
(7) Insert a heavy screwdriver into the recess in the clamp ring and
pry this side of the ring out over the edge of the wheel.
(8) Work the ring off with tire irons and remove the tire and tube
assembly.
b. Replacement.
(1) When replacing tire, make sure the clamp ring is seated against
the rim of the wheel throughout its whole circumference before inflating
the tire. Install wheel retaining nuts and tighten them evenly with a wheel
hub nut wrench.
(2) The wheel retaining nuts should be checked frequently to keep
them tight, as there may be a tendency for them to loosen during operation.
259
TM 9-765
174
174. WHEEL HEARINGS.
a. AdjustmentFront and Rear Wheels.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Chisel, cold
Hammer
Jack, 41-J-73-5
Wrench, speed, s/s-in.
Wrench, speed, 3A-in.
Wrench, wheel bearing nut
(2) Place vehicle on level.ground and apply parking brake. Loosen
the six wheel stud nuts on the wheel that is to be worked on with the wheel
stud nut wrench.
(3) Raise the truck with the jack until the wheel clears the ground.
(4) Remove the six wheel stud nuts that were previously loosened
and remove the wheel.
(5) With a cold chisel and hammer, bend the lugs of the lock plate
away from the bolt heads.
BEARING
NUT WRENCH
RA PD 32323
Figure 123 Removing Wheel Bearing Outer Nut
(6) With a 3/4-inch wrench remove the cap screws which attach the
drive flange on the front wheel hub or with a s/s-inch wrench remove the
cap screws which retain the rear wheel hub.
260
TM 9-765
174
(7) If the flange or axle shaft is tight, it may be removed by installing
two of the drive flange or axle shaft cap screws in the tapped holes in
the flange or shaft. By turning these cap screws alternately, the drive
flange or axle shaft may be removed (fig. 17).
( 8 ) Raise the tang which locks the outer lock nut and remove the nut,
using bearing nut wrench (fig. 123). Then remove the nut lockwasher.
(9) Using the special wrench and a T handle, pull the inner nut up
snugly (wrench tight). Then back the nut off a distance equal to that
between two adjacent flange bolt holes, which is equal to 45 degrees.
Aline nearest slot in nut with short tang on locking washer and bend the
tang down.
(10) Install outer lock nut. Then tighten the nut securely, using the
special wrench, and bend down long tang on locking washer into slot in nut.
(11) Place a new terneplate gasket on the drive flange or axle shaft and
install the flange, making sure to line up the bolt holes in the flange with
those in the gasket as shown in figure 124.
TERNE PLAT
GASKET
RA PD 32324
Figure 124 Installing Drive Flange
(12 ) Install the eight cap screws through a new lock plate and tighten
them securely with a s/g-inch or 3/4-inch wrench. Where tension wrenches
are available, these cap screws should be tightened to a torque load of
95 to 115 foot pounds.
(13) Bend the tangs of the lock plate against the cap screw heads.
261
TM 9-765
174
BOMB SERVICi TRUCK M6 (Chevrolet)
b. Wheel Bearing ReplacementFront.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Chisel
Driver, oil seal, J-1672 (KM)
Driver, outer bearing, J-16603
(KM)
Hammer
Handle, driver, J-1660-1
(KM)
Jack, 41-J-73-5
Puller, inner bearing, J-918-G
(KM)
Punch, drift
Wrench, speed, 3/4-in.
Wrench, wheel bearing nut,
J-1663 (KM)
(2) Proceed as outlined in a (2) to (8) of this paragraph.
(3) Remove the bearing adjusting nut.
(4) Remove spacer washer, roller bearing and cone assembly, and
wheel hub. Install wheel cylinder clamp.
RA PD 32325
Figure 125Inner Bearing Removal
(5) Using puller, remove the inner bearing and oil seal. The puller is
installed by tilting the plate with chain attached, so that it may be slipped
through the inner race of the bearing and then raised up behind the outer
race. The plate is then held in this position by the chain while threading
the puller shaft into the tapped hole. The puller body is then located
against the inner end of the hub and the puller handle installed
--* 125).
262
TM 9-765
174
(6) Drive the outer bearing outer race from the hub, using a long drift
punch through the inner end of the hub so that it contacts the back of
the race.
(7) Wash the bearings and the inside of the hub with SOLVENT, dry
cleaning.
(8) Inspect the bearings and replace any that are worn, scored, or
checked. When in doubt, it is a good policy to use new parts.
(9) Replace outer races of both the inner and outer bearings, using
driver J16603 (KM), to either drive or press them in place (fig. 126).
OUTER
BEARING
RACE
DRIVER
RA PD 3231*
Figure 126Replacing Outer Race
NOTE: The bearing surface of both races should be facing away from
the center of the hub.
(10) Hand pack the inner bearing roller assembly with GREASE,
general purpose, No. 2. Refer to section IV for instructions.
(11) Coat the outside of seal lightly with sealing compound, place
it on driver J-1672 (KM), and drive it into the hub until it contacts
the bearing outer race (fig. 127).
(12) For prelubrication, a light coating of OIL, engine, seasonal grade,
should be rubbed on the inner oil seal.
263
TM 9-765
174
(13) Install the hub on the steering knuckle. Then hand pack the
outer bearing roller assembly with GREASE, general purpose, No. 2 or its
equivalent and install it in the hub. Install spacer washer and adjust-
ing nut.
(14) Adjust the bearings according to instructions given in para-
graph 174.
SEAL
DRIVER
RA PD 32327
Figure 127 Replacing Inner Bearing Seal
c. Wheel Bearing ReplacementRear.
(1) TOOLS REQUIRED:
Clamp, brake wheel cylinder, Punch, drift
J-718C (KM)
Chisel
Driver, inner bearing, J-872-4
(KM)
Jack, 41-J-73-5 (KM)
Hammer
Pliers
Puller, inner bearing, J-918-G
(KM)
Remover, outer bearing, and
replacer, J-872-1 (KM)
Replacer, oil seal, J-872-2
(KM)
Wrench, speed, s/s-in.
Wrench, wheel bearing nut,
J-870 (KM)
264
"
at
In
OS
ma
265
174
TM 9-765
TM 9-765
174
(2) Proceed as outlined in 174 a (2) to (8) of this paragraph.
(3) Remove the bearing adjusting nut and spacer washer.
(4) Remove hub and drum assembly.
(5) Install brake wheel cylinder clamp to prevent loss of fluid in
case the brake pedal is accidentally depressed.
(6) Install puller as described under 174 h (5) of this paragraph and
remove inner bearing and oil seal (fig. 125).
(7) With the inside of the hub up, tap the outer bearing outer race
away from the snap ring to relieve the tension on it. Then remove the
snap ring with a pair of pliers (fig. 128).
THRUST
WASHER
LOCK NUT
AND SEAL
LOCK NUT
LOCK
BEARING
ADJUSTING NUT
RA PD 32329
Figure 129 Installing Bearing Adjusting Nuts
(8) Remove the outer bearing by driving the outer race of the
bearing toward the center of the hub, using outer bearing remover and
replacer J-872-1 (KM).
(9) Check the fit of the inner races on the housing. They should be
free to turn but not loose.
(10) Wash all parts with SOLVENT, dry cleaning. Pack the roller
assemblies with GREASE, general purpose, No. 2 or its equivalent.
(11) Install the outer bearing snap ring in the hub.
266
TM 9-765
174
(12) Place the outer bearing outer race in the wheel hub with the
wide side of the race down. Press the bearing firmly against the snap
ring, using outer wheel bearing race remover and replacer J8721
(KM) (fig. 126).
(13) Place outer race of inner bearing in hub with wide side of the
race down. Use driver J-8724 (KM) to press the race against its seat.
(14) Hand pack the inner bearing with LUBRICANT, general pur-
pose, No. 2 and place it in the inner bearing outer race. Install the oil seal,
using the oil seal replacer J-872-2 (KM). Press the seal down against
the bearing in an arbor press. Lock the seal in place by prick punching
at three equally spaced places.
(15) Install wheel hub and drum assembly. Hand pack the outer
bearing and install it in the end of hub, turning the hub to properly
line up the bearings.
(16) Install the thrust washer and adjusting nut (fig. 129).
(17) Adjust bearing as outlined, paragraph 174.
267
268
TM 9-765
Section XXXIII
STORAGE OF VEHICLE
This information is not available at the present time.
TM 9-765
175-176
Section XXXIV
REFERENCES
Paragraph
Standard Nomenclature Lists 175
Explanatory Publications 176
175. STANDARD NOMENCLATURE LISTS:
a. Bomb service truck M6 SNL G-85, Vol. IV.
h. Cleaning, preserving and lubricating mate-
rials, recoil fluids, special oils, and sim-
ilar items of issue SNL K-l
Current Standard Nomenclature Lists are as
tabulated here. An up-to-date list of SNL's is
maintained as the "Ordnance Publications for
Supply Index" OPSI
176. EXPLANATORY PUBLICATIONS:
a. Automotive Materiel.
Automotive brakes '. TM 10-565
Fuels and carburetion TM 10-550
The internal combustion engine TM 10-570
b. Automotive Electricity.
Automotive electricity TM 10-580
Electrical fundamentals TM 1-455
c. Cleaning, Preserving, Lubricating, and
Welding Materials and Similar Items
Issued by the Ordnance Department TM 9-850
269
TM 9-765
176
el. Explosives and Demolition FM 5-25
e. Hand Grenades FM 23-30
f. Maintenance.
Automotive lubrication TM 10-540
Camouflage FM 5-20
Defense against chemical attack FM 21-40
Detailed lubrication instructions OFSB 6 series
Echelon system of maintenance TM 10-525
Fire prevention, safety TM 10-360
Military motor transportation TM 10-505
Military motor vehicles AR 850-15
Motor transport FM 25-10
Motor transport inspections TM 10-545
Storage of motor vehicle equipment AR 850-18
Tune-up and adjustment TM 10-530
270
TM 9-765
INDEX
A Pag* No.
Accelerating pump shaft, lubrication 27
Accelerator, description 10
Accessories, cold weather 39
Adjustment of:
brakes 73-88
hydraulic 77-88
parking 75-76
service 73-75
breaker points 143-144
carburetor 209-210
choke 209
clutch pedal 104
fan belt 117-118
idling 186, 209
metering rod 210
shifter shaft control rod 250
steering gear 241-244
valves 181-182, 186
wheel bearings 260-261
Air cleaner
carburetor
description 210
lubrication 27
maintenance 210-212
tune-up 185
valve cover
lubrication 27
tune-up 185-186
Air leakage, tires 258-259
Ammeter 9, 217
Automatic spark control 148-149
checking operation 149
description 148-149
Automotive materiel, special precau-
tions for 42
Auxiliary fuel tank 204
Axles (See Front axle and Rear
axle)
BCont'd Page No.
Bleeding
hydraulic brakes 77-80
hydrovac 95
Body 60-69
construction 60-63
lubrication 63
maintenance 63.
repair 44
tightening 63
Body wiring harness 155-157
Bomb lift, hydraulic cylinder (See
Cylinder, hydraulic)
Bomb lift truck (See Truck, bomb
lift)
Brake hose, replacement 86
Brake pedal 10
Brakes
dragging, causes of 71-72
repair 44
Brake shoe replacement 88-94
Brake system 70-100
adjustment 73-100
hydraulic 77-94
hydrovac bopster 94-98
parking 75-76
service 73-75
trailer electric 98-100
description 70
CCont'd PogeNo.
ControlsCont'd
generator (See Generator)
glove compartment lock 12
hand throttle 10
headlight dimmer switch 10
identification plate 12
instrument panel light switch. 10
lighting switch 9
maximum road speeds plate 12
panel lights 10
serial number and load data plate 12
shifting diagram plate 13
speedometer 8
starter switch pedal 10
temperature indicator 8
trailer electric brake load 12
transfer case shifting lever 11
transmission gear shift lever 11
ventilator control lever 13
water bypass shut-off cock 15
windshield quadrant clamp screws 15
windshield wiper switches 13
Cooling system 111-124
capacity 5
description 1ll
draining plate 13
draining 113
fan blades
fan belt
fan shroud
filling
inspection
radiator core
radiator pressure filler cap
116-117
117-118
.... lie
113-114
111-112
121-124
114-115
44
CCont'd fag* NO.
Chassis sheet metalCont'd
description 227
front end assembly
removal 227-229
replacement 229
front fender 229-230
lubrication chart 26, 27
Chassis wiring harness
front 152
rear 154-155
Checking shock absorbers 23/-23S
Choke
adjustment 209
description 9-10
Cleaning 30
after gas attack 40
propeller shaft assembly 224
Clutch 102-110
description 102
inspection 106-107
overhaul 105-110
pedal
adjustment 104
description 10
release bearings, lubrication 27
TM 9-765
INDEX
CCont'd Page No.
Cylinder, hydraulic, lubrication . 25, 29
Cylinder, hydraulic brake
master
description 86-87
replacement 87
servicing 87
wheel
description 87
replacement 87-88
Cylinders
bore and stroke 5
firing order 5
numbering 5
Data, tabulated
engine
Decontamination
Description of:
air cleaner, carburetor
ammeter
battery
body
brakes
162-163
40-42
bumper
carburetor
chassis sheet metal
clutch
210
217
125, 128
. . 60-63
70
201
208
227
102
condenser 148
controls 8-15
cooling system Ill
cylinder head 175
distributor 143
driver's compartment 60-62
engine 162
mountings 192-193
exhaust system 196
fan belt 117
fan blades . r 116
fan shroud 116
frame 199
front axle 48
fuel filter 207
fuel gage 213-215
fuel pump 206
fuel system 202
fuel tanks 203-204
general 4
generator 132, 137-138
hydrovac booster 94-95
Ignition coil 150
ignition harness 152-157
DCont'd Poge No.
Description of:Cont'd
ignition system 141
instrument cluster 213
instruments 8-15
TM 9-765
E-Cont'd
FCont'd Page No.
Fittings, lubrication
chassis 27
truck 29
Frame f 199-201
bumper 201
description 199
pintle and pull hooks. ..'... 199-200
Front axle 48-54
adjustment . .: 49-52
description 48
control lever 11-12
drive gears, shifting 17
maintenance 49-52
oil capacity 5
parts listed 47
repair 43
replacement 53-54
shaft, replacement 49-52
tie rod, replacement 52
trouble shooting 48-49
Front wheel bearings, lubrication 24
Fuel
capacity 5
consumption, excessive . 202-203
Fuel filter 207
Fuel gage 213-216
description 8, 213-215
testing 215-216
Fuel pump 206-207
description 206
maintenance 206207
replacement
tune-up .
Fuel system
air cleaner .
ammeter
207
-207
202-212
210-212
217
Page No.
Engine 162-194
cylinder head 174-181
carbon removal 175
description 174
removal 174-178
rocker arm and shaft assem-
blies 176-178
replacement 178-181'
rocker arm and shaft assem-
blies 178-180
data, tabulated 5, 162-163
description, general 162
installation 191-192
manifolds 171-174
description 171-172
gasket leaks 174
removal 172
replacement 172-174
misses, remedies, for 203
mountings 192-194
noises, remedies for 170
oiling system 187-188
oil pan, replacement 188
oil pump, replacement 188-189
TM 9-765
INDEX
G-Cont'd
Page No.
174
Gasket, manifold, leaks
Gasoline
cold weather 35
tank gage selector switch 35
Gear cases, lubrication 27
Gear shift lever 11
Gear reduction, transmission 251
Generator and controls 132-140
charging rate too high or low 137
description 132, 137-138
maintenance 137
regulator unit 139-140
replacement 138-139
testing 132-135
trouble shooting 137
Glove compartment lock 12
Grabbing clutch, causes of 104
Grease leakage, rear axle, causes of 55-56
Grinding valves 175
Ground clearance 5
10
Pag* No.
12
Hand throttle
Hard riding, causes of
Hard steering, causes of
Headlights
aiming
description
dim, causes of
dimmer switch
231-232
239, 258
157-161
160-161
158-159
.... 157
10
sealed beam unit, replacement . . 159
Height . 5
High temperature operation 39
Hoist, bomb handling
inspection 65
installation and reassembly. . . 65-69
operation 63
parts listed 67
removal and disassembly 63-65
repairs 63-65
Hood (See Chassis sheet metal)
Hydraulic brakes, adjustment. . . 77-88
bleeding 77-80
master cylinder 86-87
tubing 80-86
Hydrovac booster system 94-97
bleeding 95
description 94-95
failure to operate 7 72-73
lubrication 95
maintenance 95
replacement 95-98
Identification plate
Idling
adjustment 209
fast, remedies for 203
TM 9-765
Jumping out of gear, causes of
Leaks
air, tires 258-259
gasket, manifold 174
lubricant
front axle 48
transfer case' 248
steam relief tube 119
water 113
Lighting and wiring systems 152-161
blackout lights 161
description 152-157
headlights 158-161
aiming 160-161
description 158-159
dim 157
main light switch 157-158
Light switch
instrument panel 9, 10
main 157-158
Log book 30
Loose steering, remedies for 240
Lubricant leaks
front axle 48
transfer case 248
Lubricating system 187-188
camshaft bearing 187
connecting rod-bearing 187
main bearing 187
repair 45
Pag* No. M Page No.
252 Maintenance and adjustment
air cleaner 210-212
battery 125-127
body 63
carburetor 209-210
air cleaner 210-212
distributor 143
exhaust system 196
front axle 49-52
fuel filter 207
fuel pump 206-207
hydrovac booster 95
rear axle 56
starting system 125-127
Maintenance operations 43-47
Manifold heating control
lubrication
valve, tune-up
Manifolds
description . .
replacement
24
:. ise
171-174
171-174
172-174
Maximum road speeds plate, descrip-
tion . 12
Metal surfaces, painting 32
Metering rod, adjustment 210
Missing engine, causes of 203
Noises, causes and remedies
axle
differential
engine
TM 9-765
INDEX
OCont'd Pag. No.
OperationCont'd
starting engine 15
starting truck 17
Overhaul propeller shaft assem-
bly 223-224
Overheating, causes of 112-113
Paint(ing) 31-33
camouflage 32
general instructions 31
lubricating devices 33
metal surfaces 32
preparation for 31-32
removing 32
Panel lights 10
Parking brake, adjustment 75-76
Pintle hook 199
Piston displacement 5
Popping, remedies for 168-169
Power, lack of 166-167
Power plant brace rod 194
Prestarting inspection
engine 15
truck 19-20
Primer, ground, synthetic 31-32
Primer, synthetic, rust inhibiting . 32
Propeller shafts 219-226
cleaning 224
description 219
inspection 224
overhaul 223-224
reassembly 225-226
removal 222-223
replacement 226
trouble shooting '222
Pull hooks 199-201
Radiator core 121-124
Radiator pressure filler cap. . . 114-115
Rear axle 55-58
adjustment 56
description 55
differential, replacement 56
maintenance 56
oil capacity 5
repair 44
replacement '58
shaft, replacement 56
Rear wheel bearing, lubrication. . 24-25
Rebuild, definition 43
RCont'd Page No.
Records
lubrication 23,25
use 30
Regulator unit 139-140
Repair, allocation of 43-47
body 44
brakes 44
clutch 44
cooling system 44
definition 43
electrical system 44
engine 44-45
exhaust system 45
front axle 43
fuel system 45
hoist 63-65
instruments : 45
TM 9-765
R-Cont'd Pag No.
S-Cont'd Page No.
Service brakesCont'd
toeboard clearance 75
Service, definition 43
Shackles, replacement 237
Shifter shaft control rod, adjust-
ment 250
Shifting 17-18
Shifting diagram plate 13
Shifting difficulties 252
Shimmy, remedies for 49, 240
Shock absorbers (See Springs and
shock absorbers)
Side pull, remedies for 240
Slipping clutch 102-104
Slipping out of gear 248
Slip joints
description 219
lubrication 27
Slow starter speed 127
Spark knock, remedies for.... 168-169
Spark plugs 149-150
tune-up 184
Speedometer 8,217-218
Spitting, remedy for 168-169
Springs and shock absorbers . . 231-238
description 231
eye bolt, replacement 237
front springs 232-233
removal 232-233
replacement 233
rear springs 233-235
removal 233-234
replacement 235
repair 45
shackles, replacement 237
shock absorbers 237-238
checking 237
filling 238
replacement 238
Starter switch pedal 1"
Starting
Replacement (removal and)Cont'd ,
hydrovac booster 95-98
ignition coil 150-151
manifolds 172-174
master cylinder, brake 87
oil pan 4 ... 188
oil pressure gage 217
oil pump 188-189
pintle hook 199
propeller . shafts 222-226
radiator core 121-124
radiator pressure filler cap 115
rear axle 58
shaft 56
rear springs 233-235
regulator unit 139-140
rocker arms 176-180
shock absorbers 238
speedometer 218
starting motor 129-131
switch 131
connecting rod 244
TM 9-765
INDEX
SCont'd Poge No.
Steering gear 239-246
adjustment 241-244
connecting rod, replacement... 244
description 239
maintenance 240-241
parts listed 47
repair 45
replacement 244-246
Steering, hard, remedies for 48
Storage 268
Temperature indicator 8,213
Testing:
automatic spark control 149
battery 184
condenser 148
fuel gage 215-216
generator 132-135
ignition coil 150
Thermostat 121
Third member, replacement 56
Tie rod (front axle) 52
Timing ignition 146-148
tune-up 186
Tires
air leaks 258-259
inflation 19
pressure 5,258
replacement 259
uneven wear, causes of 259
Toeboard clearance 75
Tools and equipment 34
Tow (See Pintle hook)
Trailer electric brakes 98-100
load control 12
Transfer case 247-250
description 247
oil capacity 5
replacement 249-250
shifting 17-18
lever 11
shaft control rod 250
Transmission 251-257
cover, replacement 252-255
description 251
gear reduction 25 f
gear shift lever 11
oil capacity 5
repair 45
T-Cont'd Pag. No.
TransmissionCont'd
replacement 255-257
shifting 18
Tread 5
Trouble shooting
air leakage 258-259
axle noise 55
backlash 55, 222
battery 127
brake pedal 71, 72
clutch 102-104
cooling system 112-113
dim headlights 158
dragging brakes 71-72
engine 166-170
TM 9-765
T-Cont'd Poge NO.
Trouble shootingCont'd
rear axle 55-56
road shock 240
shifting difficulties 252
shimmy 49, 240
slipping clutch 102-104
slipping out of gear 248
springs 231-232
start, failure to 142
starting system 127
steering gear 2,39-240
transfer case 247-248
transmission 251-252
universal joints 222
vibration (propeller shaft) 222
wandering 49,240
weaving 240
wheels 258-259
Truck, bomb lift
lubrication 15, 28, 29
starting 17
Tubing, brake 80-86
Tune-up, engine 182-187
battery test 184
compression 182-184
condenser 185
cooling system 186
fuel pump 185
ignition coil 185
manifold heat valve 186
road test 186-187
spark plugs 184
V Page No.
Vacuum line check valve 98
Valve adjustment 181-182
tune-up 186
Ventilator control lever 13
Vibration (propeller shaft) 222
Wandering, remedies for 232
Water bypass shut-off cock 15, 119
Water pump 118-119
Weaving, remedies for 240
Weight 5
Wheel(s), wheel bearings, tires 258-267
base, length 5
bearings
adjustment 260-261
replacement
front 262-264
rear 264-267
description 258
lubrication 24-25
repair .....' 45
replacement 259
Wheel cylinder (brake) 87-88
Winch, lubrication 28,29
Windshield
description 62
quadrant clamp screw 15
replacement 68-69
wiper switches 13
Wiring system 152-157
body harness 155-157
chassis front harness 152
chassis rear harness 154-155

TM 9-765 BOMB SERVICE TRUCK M6

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/

AUGUST 13, 1942

BOMB SERVICE TRUCK M6

Generated on 2013-07-06 15:31 GMT / http://hdl.handle.net/2027/uc1.b3243752 Public Domain, Google-digitized / http://www.hathitrust.org/access_use#pd-google

TECHNICAL MANUAL 1 ~-T- ^ <VO (/? -T WAR DEPARTMENT

No. 9-765 ' Washington, August 13, 1942

BOMB SERVICE TRUCK M6 (Chevrolet)

Prepared under the direction of the

PART ONEOperating Instructions

SECTION I: Introduction 1-3 4 7

II: Operation and controls 47 8-18

III: Inspection 8-14 19- 22

IV: Lubrication 15-19 23- 29

V: General care and preservation 20-21 30

VI: Painting 22-27 31- 33

VII: Tools and equipment on vehicle 28-29 34

VIII: Operations under unusual condi-

tions 30-30A 35- 39

IX: Materiel affected by gas 31-34 40- 42

PART TWOOrganization Maintenance

X: Scope of maintenance operations 35-37 43 47

XI: Front axle 38-41 48- 54

XII: Rear axle 42-45 55- 59

XIII: Body :46-50 60- 69

XIV: Brake system 51-63 70-101

XV: Clutch 64-68 102-110

XVI: Cooling system 69-84 111-124

XVII: Battery and starting system . . 85-90 125-131

XVIII: Generator and controls 91-95 132-140

Generated on 2013-07-06 15:32 GMT / http://hdl.handle.net/2027/uc1.b3243752 Public Domain, Google-digitized / http://www.hathitrust.org/access_use#pd-google

BOMB SERVICE TRUCK M6 (Chevrolet)

PART TWO-Organization Maintenance (Continued)

Lighting and wiring systems .

Instruments and gages

Chassis sheet metal

Springs and shock absorbers . .

Wheels, wheel bearings, tires .

Generated on 2013-07-06 15:34 GMT / http://hdl.handle.net/2027/uc1.b3243752 Public Domain, Google-digitized / http://www.hathitrust.org/access_use#pd-google

Figure 3Chevrolet Bomb Service TruckLeft Front

Figure 2Chevrolet Bomb Service TruckRight Side

Generated on 2013-07-06 15:34 GMT / http://hdl.handle.net/2027/uc1.b3243752 Public Domain, Google-digitized / http://www.hathitrust.org/access_use#pd-google

BOMB SERVICE TRUCK M6 (Chevrolet)

PART ONE OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

a. This manual is published for the information and guidance of the

using arms and services.

b. In addition to a description of the CHEVROLET 4x4 MODEL

G-7128 BOMB SERVICE TRUCK M6, this manual contains technical

c. Disassembly, assembly and such repairs as may be handled by

using arms personnel will be undertaken only under the supervision of an

officer or the chief mechanic.

d. In all cases where the nature of the repair, modification, or adjust-

nance service should be informed in order that trained personnel with

suitable tools and equipment may be provided or proper instructions

ers. It is powered by a six-cylinder valve-in-head engine. A single plate