Snohomish Conservation District 528 - 91st Ave NE, Ste A Lake Stevens, WA 98258-2538 Address Service Requested

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Lake Stevens, WA Permit No. 26

The Nexus Horse Manure, From Waste to Resource

By Caitlin Price, Farm Planner

Those of us who own horses often think of manure and stall bedding as waste that must be disposed of. Out of sight, out of mind, as the saying goes. We may not realize that the manure pile behind our barn is polluting a nearby stream or contaminating our well water. The good news is that manure and bedding both have a useful after-life which plays an important role in making horse ownership safer for the environment and more cost effective for you. Our healthy soil and clean water are fragile and precious resources. As livestock owners, we can easily do more harm than good if were not careful!

Spring 2012
Serving Snohomish County and Camano Island

What Do Conservation Districts Do?

Conservation Districts are locallydriven, non-regulatory agencies that help local residents. If you own or rent property, you can receive help testing your soil, controlling erosion, managing rainwater that becomes mud, improving habitat, and planting native plants. Whether youre a small or large farm, conservation districts can help you formulate a plan for your property that protects natural resources while helping you reach your goals. Read a great article about Washington States conservation districts at http://readthedirt.org/2012/02/03/ wa-conservation-districts-an-introduction/. Here is what one person had to say after reading the article:
How did I never know about this? These non-regulatory districts are ingenious from what I can tell. This is exactly the sort of honest, community-driven conservation effort that can see results.

Manures After-Life

Derrick Santos fromO2 Compost of Snohomish works the stall shifter taking compost from the wooden bin and sifting out useable bedding (the material on the ground under the shifter.)

There are many ways to reuse livestock manure and stall bedding, and turn them from a waste into a resource. Here are four good methods to manage your manure better.

Option 1: Bedding for Other Animals

Used horse stall bedding (even when it contains some manure) can nd an excellent second life as cow, alpaca, goat, and sheep bedding in open loang sheds and barns. For example, many dairies routinely pick up used bedding from large horse stables and reuse it as cow bedding. The risk of disease transferring from horses to other livestock through bedding is negligible, and intestinal parasites are specic to individual species (horse parasites will not infect sheep or cows).

To test composted bedding for horses, the District worked with ve commercial equine facilities after receiving a grant from the Western Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education (SARE) Program in April 2011. The Conservation District partnered with O2 Compost Systems, from Snohomish, to provide the micro-bin compost systems and technical expertise.

Inside
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For this trial, used stall bedding was composted in aerKeep in mind that the ated micro-bins more bedding you use for 30 days, then in the rst place, the manure was sorted more re-useable that from the bedding waste will be. If you with a Brockwood plan to re-use your bedStall Sh*fter (shown Compost bins at Half-Trak Farms constructed with assistance from Snoding, wood shavings above). The composhomish Conservation District and the Stillaguamish Clean Water District. work the best because ted horse apples they are absorbent and hold up well over time. are great compost for gardens, while the bedding can be reused in horse stalls or for other livestock.

Option 2: Bedding for Your Horses (again)

Another option is to put used bedding back to work in your horse stalls after composting it. Compost is commonly used for dairy cow bedding. Research has shown that cows resting on a nice thick bed of compost have reduced rates of mastitis (udder infections) compared to cows bedded with sand or clean wood shavings. This is because the good microbes in the compost are very competitive and stronger than the infectious bacteria.

Stables that use large quantities of wood shavings for bedding recover the highest amount of reusable bedding - around 80 percent. Stables that use wood pellets or a smaller amount of bedding material are able to recover about 50 percent of their bedding for re-use.
~ continued on page 2 River lupine by Matthew Shepherd. See pages 4 & 5 for more plants that pollinators love!

SCD 1

Horse Manure - continued

Composted bedding is darker than fresh shavings, and slightly moist. Most livestock owners prefer to mix composted bedding with fresh bedding in their stalls, reducing the amount of fresh bedding purchased. The composts moisture-holding properties signicantly reduce dust in the stalls, which can be benecial for sensitive horses. While it does require a little extra time, recycling bedding can reduce the cost of purchasing new bedding. The Northwest Equine Stewardship Center in Monroe, a cooperator on this project, is pleased with the quality of this composted bedding. When a horse in their care with severe skin and respiratory allergies was bedded with this compost mix, his symptoms were greatly reduced. As a non-prot horse rescue and educational organization, the Center appreciates the opportunity to reduce bedding costs and host educational trials.

Option 3: Build Up Your Soil for Beautiful Pastures and Gardens

Another way to turn waste into a resource is using it to improve your soil and pasture health. Most of the nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, etc.) that animals eat end up in their manure. Livestock manure of all types has been used to build soil and fertilize crops for as long as people have been farming. While these nutrients are essential for plant growth, they cause problems if they end up in our streams, lakes or well water. Adding organic materials like compost and manure to your soil is the best way to improve long-term soil health, and invest in your lands future. Organic matter improves soil structure and workability, reduces compaction, and provides food for soil microbes. These hard working bacteria and fungi play a vital part in the soil life-cycle by recycling organic materials to make nutrients available to plants, breaking down toxins in the soil, and boosting plant immunity to disease. To reduce the risk of parasites and weeds, manure can be composted. Composting also reduces the volume of your manure pile by up to 50 percent, making the manure easier to handle and store. The bacteria and nutrients in fresh livestock manure are easily carried in water across bare pastures and through wet soil to nearby streams and drinking water wells. Composted manure is safer to handle, and safer for the environment. Snohomish Conservation District engineers and farm planners are experienced in working with small to large scale facilities and designing compost Sifted compost ready for use as stall systems that t their individual needs. bedding. Compost bins can be built to handle the manure from one horse or one thousand horses. The size, design, and location will depend on your goals, number of animals, access and how hands-on you want to be with the composting process. For example, in 2007 District farm planners started working with Half-Trak Farms, a dressage and sport horse facility northeast of Stanwood. An initial walk and talk on their property to discuss pasture management developed into creating a farm plan for them. Most recently, the owners decided to improve their manure management system. They wanted to construct bins to compost the manure and bedding from all 15 stalls. With assistance from the District and partial funding from the Stillaguamish Clean Water District, a large two-bin compost system was designed and built to meet their needs (see photo on page 1). This system produces enough quality compost to spread on ve acres of pastures, which keeps Half Track Farms soil healthy and their grass growing.

Newly nished compost bins on the Jackson Farm. The steel I-beams in the center bottom of the bins prevent the tractor bucket from digging into the gravel base.

This is a great example of how a partnership that starts with a simple farm visit (answering questions and offering advice) can progress to much more. For all their work and benecial changes, Half-Trak Farms received the 2011 Commercial Farm of the Year Award from the Snohomish Conservation District. This award recognizes the farm for their progress in using Best Management Practices that protect water quality and other natural resources. On a smaller scale, the Jacksons keep only four horses and ve pigmy goats on ve acres in Arlington Heights. They have also worked with the District to develop a farm plan for their property. The Jacksons dont need a compost system as large or expensive as HalfTrak Farms system. Instead, Conservation District engineers designed a simple, inexpensive three-bin compost system that the Jacksons could install themselves (photo above). Theyre also using compost to improve soil and grow healthy grass for their goats and horses.

For more information about composting manure, see the Small Farm Composting Guide produced by USDANRCS and available online at: http://bit.ly/farmCompost.

Option 4: Your Waste is Someone Elses Gold

If composting manure is not for you, consider letting it become somebody elses treasure. The Snohomish Conservation District maintains a Manure Share List to connect manure producers with manure users. Horse manure is a high quality and very safe soil amendment in high demand by gardeners. Many nurseries and landscapers are also looking for good sources of compost. Your manure will be more valuable to gardeners if it has little or no bedding mixed with it. You can also haul your stall waste to a compost facility in Snohomish County. (see box at right).

Compost Facilities in Snohomish County Accepting Livestock Manure and Bedding

Lenz Enterprizes, LLC - Stanwood Phone: 360-629-2933 Website: www.lenz-enterprizes.com Riverside Topsoil - Snohomish Phone: 425-379-9933 Website: www.riversidetopsoils.com Bailand Farms Phone: 360-568-8826 Topsoils NW - Thomas Farms Phone: 360-568-7645
This list is provided by the Snohomish Conservation District as a service to livestock owners. This list is not an endorsement of any business or service. Source: Snohomish Health District

Residents of the Stillaguamish River Clean Water District Can Apply for Funds to Manage Livestock Waste
Waste from livestock and humans that leaches into the Stillaguamish River upstream can become polluted water downstream. Because of this issue, the Stillaguamish River Clean Water District has set aside funds to help nance projects that improve water quality for shellsh in Port Susan Bay. The Clean Water District can assist private landowners, community groups, and/or local agencies (in the Stillaguamish Watershed) in undertaking small scale, on-the-ground projects. These projects may include fencing livestock away from streams and lakes, planting vegetated buffer strips, and using updated manure management plans. For more information, go to: http://www1.co.snohomish.wa.us/Departments/Public_ Works/ Divisions/SWM/Work_Areas/Water_Quality/CWD/default.htm.

Management
Proper manure management plays a key role in keeping your farm functioning at its best. This, along with rotating pastures, using gutters, installing fencing along waterways, and providing sacrice areas, all contribute to healthy horses, clean water, happy neighbors and a beautiful, thriving farm. When we can see horse manure as a wonderful resource instead of a waste, we will be well on our way to sustainable horse keeping. If you would like to be added to our Manure Share list, or get more information on any of these manure/bedding options, please contact Caitlin Price, at 425-335-5634 ext. 113 or [email protected].

SCD 2

Rent Equipment for Small Acreages This Spring!

Snohomish Conservation District, in cooperation with Snohomish County, has purchased two small-acreage implements that will be available for rent starting this coming growing season: a Frontier 25-bushell ground-driven manure spreader and a PTO-driven broadcast spreader. In conjunction with the Districts soil testing program, the manure spreader can be rented to apply composted manure/bedding onto pastures and elds during the growing season. The broadcast spreader can be rented to apply seed, lime or fertilizer. Currently, equipment rental will only be available to Stillaguamish Clean Water District residents to improve the Stillaguamish River. The river is a top priority for cleanup due to pollution from development, on-site septic systems, over-application of fertilizers, and some agricultural practices. Because there are limited opportunities for Stillaguamish residents to rent spreaders, Snohomish Conservation District, Snohomish County Surface Water Management, and the Stillaguamish River Clean Water District Advisory Board decided to provide landowners with this rental equipment to better manage their nutrients. Details for rental guidelines are currently being developed to provide the best and most effective program for landowners. Rentals will only be available during the growing season (not for winter use or non-growing season applications). For more information, contact Bobbi Lindemulder at 425-335-5634 ext. 109.
A PTO-driven broadcast spreader like this one will be available this coming Spring. A Frontier manure spreader like this one will be available this coming Spring.

Test Your Soil in the Spring

by Leif Fixen, Resource Planner

With spring upon us, now is the time to start planning how to keep your soil fertile and your plants thriving. As pastures, elds, lawns and gardens start growing in the coming weeks, its important to actively manage your nutrients to ensure the long term health of your precious soil. The rst and most important step is soil testing. Spring is the best time to test your soil. This test will tell you how many nutrients were used up or lost during the previous growing season. Then you will know which nutrients are needed to make your soil the healthiest for maximum plant growth. This test will also alert you to excessive nutrient build-ups that you may need to correct. For example, if the main source of your nutrients is from manure or compost, a build-up of phosphorus can develop and start leaching into nearby rivers and streams. This can be harmful to sh or other water creatures. To prevent this leaching, test your soil at least every other year and adjust your nutrient source accordingly.
This soil probe will help you sample your soil and is available to check out from the District.

By basing applications on recent test results, you can supply nutrients to plants at a rate and time that optimizes plant uptake and use. This reduces nutrients being lost from leaching and run-off, and ultimately reduces unwanted nutrients in our creeks, rivers and lakes. Its best to test annually in the spring for the rst two to three years after youve developed a soil fertility management plan. After two to three consecutive years of test results show- This soil prole shows the variety of soil layers ing sustained soil health found underground, including the dark organic (your goal), you can test topsoil layer directly below the grass. every other year. If you are interested in testing your soil, contact a Conservation District farm planner for a free soil test and a personal visit to show you how its done. District staff would also be glad to help you create a free soil fertility management plan for your specic needs. Call or email one of these planners: Leif Fixen, [email protected] or 425-335-5634 ext. 110 Alan Shank, [email protected] or 425-335-5634 ext. 120 Brett de Vries, [email protected] or 425-335-5634 ext. 114 Megan OBrian, [email protected] or 425-335-5634 ext. 106

Soil Sampling Guidelines

Here are the basic soil sampling guidelines that the District recommends: Determine your sample areas based on different soil types, management history, and crop history Use clean sampling tools - soil probes work best and can be checked out from the District Soil sample depth should be at least 12 inches For each sample area, pull at least ten cores, adding one more core for every ve acres (e.g. ten-acre eld = ten cores + two cores = 12 cores total) Mix together multiple cores thoroughly in a clean sample bucket Put about two cups from the mix into a bag to be sent into the lab Store sample in a cool, dark location until it can be delivered to the laboratory (if its going to take longer than a day or two to get to the lab, freeze your sample to preserve the nutrients)

Be sure to write the following on each sample bag:

Producer or landowner name Soil sample depth Date of sampling Location or eld [label elds according to geographic references rather than number e.g. N.E. Pasture rather than Pasture 1. This way ve years from now you will be able to remember what pasture you sampled.]

Why Create a Soil Fertility Plan?

A soil fertility management plan can go a long ways towards keeping your soil fertile, your plants thriving, and nearby streams clean. This plan is location-specic and helps guide landowners to use the best practices for long-term soil health and sustainability. A plan typically includes a schedule for soil testing and a schedule for applying calculated amounts of fertilizer, manure, or compost (specically determined from the soil tests).

The yellow band of grass signies that there is a nutrient decit in this eld. A good soil test will help prevent uneven crop production and yellow patches.

SCD 3

Keep Your Garden Producing with Pollinators

By Megan OBrian, Certied Farm Planner

If you have ever tried to grow or maintain anything green here in Western Washington, at one time it has sadly probably died on you. Lets be honest, shall we? Its a rite of passage for the ower, fruit or vegetable gardener to accidentally have a plant not make it, or have your prized blueberries not produce much, or have most of the zucchini owers fall off, leaving you with only a few puny zukes. Sometimes its the weather, and sometimes its us. Either way, we could all use a little help growing things in our Pacic Northwest climate. One of the best helpers we can enlist in our gardens and elds are native pollinators, especially native bees. It doesnt matter whether youre working with a small backyard ower or vegetable garden or something larger, providing food and homes for local pollinators can lead to larger and more abundant crop yields.

Why Native Bees?

Native bees (especially mason and bumble bees) have proven themselves to be more efcient and effective pollinators than European honey bees. Native bees are more active in cooler and wetter climates (like ours) and forage earlier or later in the day than honey bees do.
Illustration of ower parts from: http://www.learner.org/ jnorth/images/graphics/t/ower_parts.gif

The female constructs small compartments (ve on average) to lay her eggs in. In each compartment, the female leaves a special mix of pollen and nectar as food for a single egg and then seals it. This protects egg and food from drying out, getting too wet or becoming infected with diseases. It takes one to three weeks for an egg to hatch. The white soft-bodied larva that emerges eats the pollen loaf and grows rapidly over the next several weeks, going through four or ve physical changes until it evolves into an adult bee. In total, the life cycle of a solitary bee lasts only about one year.

Social Bees ~ A Sisterhood

Social bees make up the other ten percent. Mostly when we think of bees, we imagine them in hives. In fact, only four percent of social bees live in hives. Bee hives consist of a queen and her offspring, all of which share in building the hive and providing for the young. The majority of bees within a hive are female worker bees. Instead of laying eggs, they perform specic tasks such as building or maintaining the hive, guarding it, foraging for food, or tending to larval bees.
A view of Matthew Shepherds bee-friendly yard in Portland, Oregon. Shepherd is a member of the Xerces Society, a non-prot organization that works to protect invertbrates (bees, bugs, butteriers, etc.) and their habitats worldwide.

Also, native bees have a wide variety of foraging behaviors compared to honey bees. When honey bees forage for nectar, there is no interaction with the pollen-producing parts of the ower in many orchard crops, leaving those crops either under pollinated or not pollinated at all. Conversely, our native orchard mason bees forage for both pollen and nectar, which greatly increases the potential to pollinate crops, while other native bees have adapted to work with only one type of ower. The bumble bee for instance, has a unique characteristic buzz pollination that helps with cross-pollination of blueberries, tomatoes and peppers. During buzz pollination, the bee shakes her ight muscles while grabbing onto one of the pollen-producing anthers inside a ower. This releases a rush of pollen that is attracted to hairs on the bee, making it a quick and efcient way to collect pollen. While tomatoes dont actually need a pollinator to produce fruit, this buzzing activity can increase the size and number of tomatoes.

Laying eggs is the queens sole responsibility. This is an ingrained instinct to reproduce, not to dictate orders to others. Essentially, no one is in charge. Since each bee only has one task, they cannot survive on their own outside of the hive.

The Bumble Bees Life

Bumble bees are social and prefer to nest in the ground, in trees and in the walls of buildings. Mated females who are the sole survivors of the winter, come out of hibernation and locate safe nesting spots, such as an abandoned mouse burrow. Each queen bee then builds a wax pot that will hold nectar and pollen for her to survive on as she incubates her eggs (4 to 16 at a time). She lies on top of the eggs and shivers her wing muscles to keep the eggs at 85 degrees F, speeding up the incubation process.
Mining bees arriving with a pollen load at their nest. Photo The adult bees by Matthew Shepherd, The Xerces Society. that emerge are all females, and help take care of later emerging young, protect the nest, and forage for pollen and nectar. As the year progresses the queen produces male drones that leave the nest, as well as bees that will become queens next year. The new queens leave the nest, mate with male drones from other hives and spend winter in the ground. This process repeats itself every year.

Bee Biology Basics

When attracting bees to your property, you need to know how and where these pollinators live. With 4,000 species of bees in North America, its helpful to categorize them by their social, nesting and foraging habits.

Its a Lonely World

About 90 percent of bees lead a solitary life. This means a female bee builds and provides for her own nest without help from other bees. The majority of solitary bees (70 percent) nest in the ground. They dig complex tunnels in well drained, bare or lightly vegetated soil, or use abandoned beetle burrows or already dug tunnels in standing dead or dying trees (snags). Others nest in creative places such as abandoned snail shells.

SCD 4

Creating Bee Habitat in Four Easy Steps

Like all new endeavors, creating habitat for local pollinators can seem a little daunting at rst glance. If you take it step by step however, it can be simple, interesting and rewarding for you and your plants. The rst step in creating habitat for local pollinators is to look around and see what you are currently doing in your yard. Next, youll gure out if the way you garden helps or harms bees, and then what simple changes you can make to increase bees visiting and/or living on your property.

Native Plants for Bees

Aster Blanket ower Buckwheat Currant California poppy Columbine Huckleberry Lupine Ninebark Oceanspray Oregon grape Penstemon Salal Willow

1. Become a Bee Detective

This rst step is all about paying attention to your yard. Take a little time each week to watch for bees. Look at your landscaped areas, your lawn, even along your driveway and the road. The idea is to see like a bee and learn what already exists as bee habitat food, nests, and shelter. What places and plants are bees attracted to? How often are these places and plants visited? What time of day is it? What season?

Two bees pollinating California poppies. On the left is a sweat bee (Halictus), on the right a yellow-faced bumble bee (Bombus vosnesenskii). Photo by Matthew Shepherd, The Xerces Society.

Non-Native Plants for Bees

Basil Bee balm Borage Catnip Chives Clover Columbine Cotoneaster Fireweed Foxglove Goldenrod Gooseberry Globe thistle Heather Hyssop Impatens Iris Lavender Mint Passion ower Phacelia Penstemon Rosemary Potentilla Purple coneower Raspberry Rhododendron Rose Salvia Saxifrage Sedum Spirea Sunower Violet

Dont forget owers in your lawn. The owers in this lawn are not the result of active For bee nests, look at areas of bare planting, more a case of benign neglect. and thinly vegetated soil, as well as There are half a dozen species blooming in tunnels in snags and in hollow twigs. this lawn. Photo by Matthew Shepherd, The Xerces Society.

2. Protect Your Pollinators

If you have found evidence of bees on your property, your next step is to protect them. You can do this by leaving nesting places and plants undisturbed. Be careful to stay away from them when mulching, tilling and spraying pesticides and other chemicals. Also, look at areas that could become bee homes, such as dying trees or rodent holes, and leave them alone as well.

3. Draw a Simple Sketch

Now that you know where bee nests and their favorite plants are, draw a simple sketch showing their location on your property and include an arrow pointing North. This basic map doesnt have to pretty or perfectly accurate, you just need to be able to make sense of it. Noting where bee habitat is located in your yard, mark places on your sketch where you would like to add more nectar or pollenproducing owers, nesting sites, or a damp soil patch or two as watering holes. Also, some native bees dont y far (500 ft or so) from their homes, so plants might need to be planted close to nests.

Types of Bees You May See:

Solitary Bees
Alkali Bees (Nomia melanderi) Carpenter Bees (genus Xylocopa) Leafcutter Bees (genus Megachile) Mason Bees (genus Osmia) Mining Bees (genus Andrena) Squash bees (Peponapis species)

Orchard mason bee (Osmia lignaria) closing her nest, made in a bamboo stem. Photo by Mace Vaughan, The Xerces Society.

4. Design Your Bee Mini Gardens

Now its time to look at your sketch from the plants point of view and consider sun and soil conditions. Your bee gardens need to be sunny (at least six hours of sun in summer) and warm, with plants that will thrive in your kind of soil. You can nd out what kind of soil you have by taking a soil test. Contact Snohomish Conservation District for tips on how to do this. Its best, when attracting bees, to create larger rounded gardens that are fairly close together instead of small, irregular shaped patches that are farther apart. Clumping the same type of owers or shrubs into a space three feet across is more attractive to pollinators than spreading out the same owers in your entire yard. It saves them precious energy, makes pollination easier, and keeps them safer from predators. This bunch arrangement helps deter weeds and discourages pesticide applications from neighbors or road crews.

Social Bees
Bumble Bees (genus Bombus) European Honey Bees (Apis mellifera) Sweat Bees (mostly in genus Halictus and Lasioglossum)

Go With Variety
Lastly and this is very critical you need to choose a variety of plants. Use at least three different plant species that will be in bloom at any one time for each garden plot - three that will bloom in spring, another three in summer and the last three in fall. This means that the minimum number of different plants you need is nine. Stay away from Lavender blossoms hybrids and double owers. Bees are most attracted to owers that are bright white, yellow, blue or purple with petal shapes that are shallow, tubular or have a landing platform. Native pollinators are more attracted to native plants, so consider using some or all native perennials, shrubs and trees. These plants are also better-suited to our soils and climate, making them a lower maintenance/lower cost choice for you. Protecting existing bee nests and food plants, as well as creating more bee homes and food sources, will go a long way towards improving the survival of our local bees as well as your owers, fruits and vegetables. For more information, contact Megan OBrian at 425-335-5634 ext. 106 or Ryan Williams at 425-335-5634 ext. 116.

Orange-rumped bumble bee (Bombus melanopygus) on a red owering currant. Photo by Mace Vaughan, The Xerces Society.

Information for this article was provided in part by this book from The Xerces Society.

SCD 5

Hats Off to Our 2011 Conservation Award Winners

Snohomish Conservation District hosted an Awards Reception on Thursday, March 22 at Legion Park in Everett. The reception honored the Districts partners, volunteers, merit farms and a local educator. Special guests included Ray Stephanson, Mayor of the City of Everett, and Marco Pinchot, Outreach and Sustainability Manager for Taylor Shellsh. Snohomish Conservation District awarded these outstanding recipients with plaques, certicates and road signs in honor of their efforts to protect natural resources, educate youth, restore wildlife habitat, partner on resource programs and in general, help the Conservation District serve the citizens of local cities, Snohomish County and Camano Island. We appreciate the many people who help us in our efforts to improve water quality, protect natural resources, distribute native trees and shrubs and enhance our quality of life. Congratulations to all of the 2011 Conservation Award winners!
Left: District Manager Monte Marti and Jon Stevens, The Open Gate Farm, review Jons resource concerns on his Camano Island farm. Jon and his wife, Elaine, have worked hard to create a sustainable, community-orientated farm. The Stevens received the Sustainable Agriculture Award. Right bottom: This three-bin compost system was installed on the Aalseth Farm near Lake Stevens. The Aalseths received the Small Farm of the Year Award.

Sustainable Agriculture
Jon and Elaine Stevens

Teacher of the Year

Holly Thompson

Partnership Awards
Bill Blake Cindy Flint City of Brier City of Everett

LID Partnership Award

Zsoa Pasztor

Cooperators of the Year

Dairy Farm
SDI Farms

Small Farm
Dorothy and Earl Aalseth

Commercial Farm
Half-Trak Farms

Wildlife Farms of the Year

Nichlos Pate and Melissa Denmark David and Melinda Gladstone Foundation

Merit Farms
Eric and Tamara Leung Natural Milk/Visser Farm Janet Timmerman

Volunteer Awards
Terry West, WSU Master Gardener Geoffrey Busby

Employee of the Year

Megan OBrian, Farm Planner

Volunter Geoffrey Busby was instrumental in helping District staff plant Brierwood Park with native trees and shrubs. He received one of two Volunteer of the Year Awards from the District.

SDI Farms won the 2011 Dairy Farm of the Year Award. Dennis and Kim Schakel are shown with the plaque and road sign they received.

Mukilteo Students Learn About Watersheds

Can you name the watershed you live in, or how humans impact water? If you nd yourself a little unsure about what a watershed is (an area of land that drains to a specic body of water), the fth graders at Columbia Elementary in Mukilteo would be glad to tell you. For three weeks in March, students learned about the human impacts on water through a series of lessons on the water cycle, stormwater, and rain gardens. The students saw the effects of pollution and stormwater on Puget Sound and were able to brainstorm solutions to the problem. For their solutions, each student designed a poster to help Puget Sound (or the world, as many students were eager to save more than just their watershed). Students got to explore their own watershed with a walking tour of the school where they were able to examine storm drains, estimate the amount of runoff coming off the schools roof (enough to ll a Boeing 777 in just one days rain!), and collect rain data. The rain garden project was a collaborative effort led by Christina Bandaragoda, a parent from Columbia Elementary School in Mukilteo and Llyn Doremus (both hydrologists by trade). The idea was to develop curriculum to help students understand how humans can impact the water cycle and to install a rain garden at their school to help them understand one of the solutions. The Conservation District hopes to offer similar lessons in other schools throughout the County.
Right, Conservation District Educator Kailyn Wentz gives the students an outside lesson. Below, the students explore their watershed by following the ow of water into Big Gulch creek.

Above, a poster one of the Columbia students created to encourage people to pick up pet waste.

SCD 6

How Does Your Garden Grow - Think Vertical

Used with permission from WSU Clark County Extension Tired of looking at that boring garage wall? Back sore from bending over to weed your ower or vegetable beds? Need a little shade or more privacy from your neighbors? Then grow up! Vertical gardening is more than growing wisteria on an elaborate arbor or hanging a basket of petunias from the eavesit adds a whole new dimension to your outdoor spaces.

Baskets and Pots

Of the containers available for vertical gardening, hanging baskets are by far the most popular. Hanging baskets, sometimes called hay baskets, can be hung on arbors, roof overhangs, or other structures that are strong enough to support them. Hang plants where they will receive morning sun and where you wont forget to water them. For those with physical limitations in reaching, pulleys and ropes can be installed to lower the plants for watering or to simply enjoy. In addition to hanging baskets, try grouping several tall containers or urns in a corner of your porch or patio. Or purchase containers that have one at side, which are intended to be mounted to a wall or fence. Shelves fastened to blank walls are another great way to display lots of containers in a small area. And dont forget window boxesthey dont take up any garden space at all!
Using gutters can be practical and beautiful.

Why Growing Up is Good

Vertical gardening is a great option (and may be the only option) for small yards, but even those with lots of space can enjoy the advantages of growing plants up rather than out. And there are many advantages. Vertical plantings can disguise unattractive parts of your landscape, such as a chain link fence, blank wall, or compost pile. Tall, columnar trees can provide privacy and shade or block wind, and trellises can dene garden rooms or add a focal point to a owerbed. Vertical gardens are convenient and can be accessed by all gardeners, regardless of their abilities. The plants are at eye level, making it easier to prune, check for pests, and harvest fruit and vegetables. Beautiful blooms and fragrant owers are more enjoyable when you dont have to This vertical garden is easily accessed from the trail alongside get down on your the house. hands and knees. Growing up can be good for your plants, too. Air can circulate better around them, which can mean less disease, mildew, and fungus. Some pests dont crawl vertically, so you may be able to avoid them. Vegetables and fruits that are not lying on the ground will be cleaner and less likely to rot; and yield per square foot of garden space will be greatly increased. There are also a few disadvantages to vertical gardening. Tall plants or those on structures will cast shadows, so you will need to put shade-tolerant plants near them and make sure nearby plants get enough sunlight. Plants that are grown vertically are often exposed to more sun and wind, so they can dry out quickly. They may need more frequent watering and fertilizing.

Choose Agreeable Plants

There are several things to keep in mind when choosing plants for vertical gardening: exposure, size, and maintenance. It seems obvious, but you need to select plants that will thrive in the conditions they will encounter in your garden. Will you be growing them over an arbor in full sun or in the shade of a trellis or fence? Will they be exposed to wind? If you grow plants against an existing wall, will that wall reect or radiate too much heat for that type of plant? Also consider how long the plants will live and what their mature size will be. Annuals will grow fast but usually not very large. And they will grow for only one season, so your vertical garden will be bare for part of the year. Perennials can get quite large, and those that are long-lived, such as wisteria, can become very heavy and will need sturdy support. The most popular plants for vertical gardens are vines. Vines climb by means of tendrils, twining, or clinging, and will need an appropriate structure or support for the way they grow. Those with tendrils, such as pole beans, do well on a trellis or tripod, while New use for a shoe pocket. those that twine will need a wire or string to twist around. Vines that cling will adhere to almost any rough surface, but can damage paint, wood, and mortar. Some plants like climbing roses and tomatoes have long stems that will ramble over the ground if not tied to a support. Also, keep in mind that some vines can be invasive; others may be poisonous.

Use Solid Support

Many gardeners who grow plants vertically do so by using some type of structure or container. Commonly used structures include trellises, pyramids or tripods, arches and arbors, gazebos, walls, fences, and wire cages. Many of these structures can add architectural interest to your garden and may even add value to your home. Choose your support structure based on the type of There are directions for making a pallet garden onplants you want to grow on line. This makes a great garden for a deck and also it. Wisteria or large tomato recycles used pallets! plants require more sturdy structures than a imsy vine or row of peas will. Some plants, such as climbing hydrangea, require nothing more than a wall to climb on, but most plants will need to be fastened to the support structure. Be sure to put your support in place and anchor it securely before you plant to prevent damage to the plants. Trellises can be made or purchased in many shapes and sizes, from miniature ones for a container to models large enough to cover an entire wall. They are often staked directly into the ground or attached to an exterior wall of the house or garage. If you put a trellis against a wall, be sure to leave some space between the trellis and the wall for air circulation. Arches and arbors can be used to dene areas of your garden, such as an entry point. Arbors are often built large enough to cover a patio, and these can usually support grape or wisteria vines, as well as climbing plants and hanging baskets. Vertical gardening is an ideal way to hide an ugly fence. Fences can support vining plants or espaliered fruit trees, or they can be disguised with columnar trees or tall plants, such as sunowers.

Vegetables Can Grow Up, too!

Many vegetables can be grown vertically including pole beans, peas, cucumbers, melons, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. Be sure to buy the vining varieties of beans, peas, cucumbers, and squash, not the bush varieties. Smallfruited varieties of squash, melons, and pumpkins are usually the best choice for vertical gardens. Most vegetables will need some kind of support structure. Pole beans, which can climb to more than six feet, do well on a tripod, trellis, or arbor. Members of the cucurbit family (cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini, squash) as well as melons, can grow up to 25 feet long, and their heavy fruits may need to be supported in slings made from old pantyhose or rags (or fancy patterned fabric if you prefer). Tomatoes (choose indeterminate varieties) are often tied to and supported by sturdy wire cages.

Eye-level Maintenance
Maintenance is something you should not overlook. Much of your vertical garden will be at eye level, so you will want to keep it tidy. Some vines, such as grapes and clematis, require annual pruning. Hedges or columnar trees may also need to be trimmed to keep their shape. Many plants will need to be tied to their support structure as they grow. Containers need to be watered daily and sometimes more often in hot weather. Vegetables and owering plants may need fertilizing, as well as deadheading. Even if youre limited to a three-foot-wide strip along a fence, youll be amazed at the amount of vertical gardening you can do!

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Upcoming Events
Free Classes Around the County
Garden Affair Classes - April 7, 10 AM - 4 PM
Free classes at the Stillaguamish Grange, during the Garden Affair at the Stanwood-Camano Fairgrounds: Growing Groceries, Fabulous Shellsh, Backyard Wildlife Habitat, Building a Rain Barrel, How Rain Gardens Can Work for You, and Composting for Your Garden.

More Great Classes

Livestock Handling and Care
Presented by Washington State University Extension April 21-22, 2012
Learn how to keep your livestock investment in the black at the Livestock Handling and Care workshops presented by the WSU Snohomish County Extension Agriculture and 4-H programs. Taught by award-winning seniors from the WSU Snohomish County 4-H Livestock Program. Workshop instructors have the experience, know-how, and training needed to raise prize-winning livestock and pass that knowledge on to others. A CD-ROM loaded with resources for each species will be provided to all attendees. Class size is limited; pre-paid registration required (see below). Take 1, 2, 3, or all 4 classes!

Rain Garden Design Workshop and Planting Saturday, April 14

Design Workshop, 10 AM 11 AM Meet at Arlington City Hall, 238 N Olympic, Arlington Rain Garden Planting, 11 AM 2 PM Meet at restroom facility on Centennial Trail, north of City Hall. Co-sponsored by the City of Arlington.

Poultry
Sat. Apr 21, 9:00 AM -11:00 AM Learn the basics of proper care and handling for all types of poultry. Egg and meat breeds, housing, nutrition, and more. Demonstration and hands-on.

Sustainable Gardens, Sustainable Yards

City of Mill Creek Council Chambers, 15728 Main St., Mill Creek Three Wednesdays in April, 7 PM - 8:30 PM each night.

Using Compost to Build Healthy Soils, April 4

Learn how to make your own compost and what to look for when buying it from others, as well as how to use compost for the greatest benet.

Beef
Sat. Apr. 21, 12:00 PM -3:00 PM Learn proper leading, handling, dehorning and injection techniques along with fencing, nutrition, and more. Demonstration and hands-on.

Gardening with a Purpose, April 11

Great ideas to put the rain to work and help you beautify your yard. Rain gardens, rain barrels, terraces, soil amendments, buffers, berms, layered plantings, permeable paths and dealing with soggy spots.

Swine
Sun. Apr 22, 9:00 AM-12:00 PM Learn how to raise great pork with safety as a focus. Handling, housing, fencing, nutrition, and more. Demonstration and hands-on.

Sustainable Landscape Design, April 18

Natural yards are fun, beautiful, and great places for relaxing and enjoying wildlife. Learn how to create a healthy backyard that is low maintenance yet attractive.

Classes at Skagit Farm Supply

8815-272nd St NW, Stanwood

Goats
Sun. Apr 22, 1:00 PM -3:00 PM Dairy, ber, or meat, youll learn the basics of handling, nutrition, fencing, housing, dehorning, and more. All workshops held rain or shine. Location is the Sheriffs Posse Arena, 5421 S. Machias Rd. just north of Snohomish. Price varies depending on number of classes you sign up for. For more information and to register, contact Marilyn Segle, 425-357-6044 or email [email protected]. Learn more at: http://snohomish.wsu.edu/ag/workshops/LivestockHandling2012.pdf

Making Chores Easy and QuickApril 14, 11-Noon

Livestock owners can learn about preventing mud, ies, and vermin and how to keep chores easy. No registration required. Held in the store.

Composting and Building SoilApril 21, 11-Noon

Composting is a great way to turn farm waste into a valuable resource for building soil. Learn how to compost farm, yard and garden waste using a variety of techniques. No registration required. Held in the store.

Fence Class and Fence BuildingApril 28, 11-3 PM

A fencing class in the store and hands-on-training after at a local farm. Register at http://bit.ly/scdwkshp.

Snohomish County Fruit Society

The Snohomish County Fruit Society will meet on Thursday, April 12, at 7 PM at the Snohomish Library, 311 Maple Ave. Come and learn about Growing Kiwis in the Northwest. The meeting is open to the public and everyone is invited. For further information, call 425-398-5544.

Septics 101, May 19, 10 AM - Noon. Septic 101 will be held at

the Stanwood PUD and qualies for the Septic 101 requirement for Island County residents. Maintaining your septic system properly saves money and headaches! Register at http://bit.ly/scdwkshp.

New Resource Planner Joins District

Brett de Vries joins the Conservation District team of farm planners with real life, local experience - having been raised on the de Vries family farm in the Snoqualmie Valley. Brett is a third generation farmer. His family has been producing beef cattle and hay in the valley since 1921. Brett graduated from Pacic Lutheran University with a degree in Recreation. He also has a background in construction management and served the Riverview School District as a substitute teacher and coach. He currently lives in Monroe with his wife, Megan. Brett will primarily be assisting farmers in the Stillaguamish Watershed in addition to serving other areas of Snohomish County. With a genuine enthusiasm to preserve local agriculture, he is eager to help property owners improve their farming methods. . Brett can be reached at 425-335-5634 ext. 114 or [email protected].

Septic Systems How much do you know about yours?

Can you afford to let it maintain itself? Are you worried that every time you have company, your system will implode? Fear not! Teri King, an expert on septic system design and maintenance, will be at the Stanwood PUD on Saturday, May 19 for a free, lively presentation on all the little details you need to prevent costly repairs. Class runs 10 AM to Noon. Register at http://bit.ly/scdwkshp. The PUD is located at 9124271st St NW, Stanwood.

Snohomish Conservation District

Board of Supervisors Mark Craven, Chair Adam Farnham, Vice-chair Karl Hereth Steve Van Valkenburg Jeff Ellingsen Associate Members Duane Weston District Manager Monte Marti Phone 425-335-5634, ext 4 FAX 425-335-5024 Editor: Lois Ruskell [email protected] 425-335-5634, ext 108 Editing: Donna Gleisner The Written Edge 425-923-7110 www.snohomishcd.org

The NEXUS is published quarterly and distributed free of charge to residents of the District. Funding provided by Snohomish County Surface Water Management, Washington Department of Ecology, and the Washington State Conservation Commission.

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