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$7.50

Build a Treadle Hammer

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©1994

Clay Spencer

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Treadle Hammer Materials 1/27/94

PN Name

Qty Size

Lzth Material

Comments

.
1 Anvil (solid) 1 5" or 6" round 36 HRS -HC Or square or weld from I" or 2" slabs
2 Base 1 112" x16" 32 Hot rolled Stl Cut 9 from 4' x 8' sheet (or 3/8")
3 Column 1 4" x 11 gage 60 Square tubing Cut 4 from 20' length
4 Support 2 1 1/4" round 4 Hot roUed Stl
5 Tool Holder 2 314" x 4" 4 Hot rolled Stl
6 Foot Bar 1 1 1(2" x 11gage 14 Square tubing =:J
7 Side 2 1 112"x 11 gage 28 ~quare tubing
S Crossbar 1 1 I(2"x 11 gage 7 Square tubing
9 Tube 1 3/4" pipe 6,9 Sch 40 Black
10 Pivot 1 3/4" round 10 Hot rolled StI
11 Spacer 2 112" X 1 1/2" 3 Hot roiled Stl For 6" anvil, 4 required
12 Brace 2 1 112" x 11 gage 28 Square tubing
13 Tube, Hammer 1 4" x 1/4"wall 12 Square tubing
14 Handle 1 9/16" round Car Coil Spring Cut 112 Coil, beat and flatten
15 Lead Stop 1 18 gage x 3 I!2" 5.8 Sheet Stl
16 Hanuner Cbeek 2 3/8" x 3" 12 Hot rolled Stl
i7 Lead 40 Pounds Lead Pour melted Lead around chunks
18 Screw 2 112" NC 2.5 112" All Thread
19 Clamp Bar .2 112" round 5 Hot rolled Stl Round ends
20 Guide 2 3/4" pipe 0.75 Sch 40 Black
21 Plate 1 1/4" X 1 112" 12 Hot roUed Stl
22 Clamp Plate 1 Assy PN 20+21
7" Slider Cheek 2 3/8" x 4" ]2 Hot rolled Stl
_J
24 Rack 1 12 pitch x 3/4"sq 12 Steel 14.5° pressure angle, mates with 36 *
r Slider Plate 1 3/8" X 4" 27 Hot rolled Stl
_)
26 Nut, 112" NC 6 Steel
27 Clamp Back 2 114" X 1 112" 12 Hot rolled Stl Drill hole, bend on jig, weld nut
28 Clamp, Slider 1 2 Assv PN 18+19+26+27
29 Spring Link 21 5116" X 3" 18 Spring One inch ID rolled eyes, each end
30 Bushing 8 1I2"IDxl "OD 1 Bronze Oilite type
31 Clamp Plate 2 114" x 3" 4.5 Hot rolled Stl
32 Connector 2 1/2" X 1 112" 2 Hot rolled Stl
~.., Link Connector 1 Assy PN 31+32
:J.:J
34 Crank 1 112" round 21 Cold Rolled StI 20" long for 5" anvil
35 Crank Bearing 2 112" x I" -4 Hot rolled Stl
36 Pinion 1 Pitch 1.0,12teeth 0.75 Steel 12 pitch, 112" ID,14.SOpress. angle *
37 Lockw as her 4 112" ID Steel
38 Sto_p 1 114" X 1" 4 Hot rolled Stl
39 Turnbuckle 1 3/4" thread Steel 12" takeup, Cut off eyes
40 Extension 1 3/4" pipe 14.8 Sch 40 Black
41 Handwheel 1 112" round 15.8 Hot rolled su Bend in circle and weld
42 Spokes 2 112" round Hot rolled Stl Cut to fit Turnbuckle, estimate 1.5"
,1" Spring Bar 1 114" x 3" Hot rolled Stl Lenzth :::::: Anvil width + 3"
...,.,:)
44 Spring 3 Half of 150 lb. GarageDoorSp Cut _garage door spring in half
45 Bar 1 112" x 1 In" 10 Hot rolled SrI
46 Spring Tube 1 3/4" pipe 10 Sch 40 Black Forge grooves for spring loops. 2

PNName ()tv Size Lzth Material Comments
47 Link Bar 1 Assy 32+45
48 Eyebolt 3 3/8" NC 6 Steel
[49 Bolt 2 112" NC 4.5 Steel 3 3/4"grip_
50 Bolt 2 112" NC 5.5 Steel 43/4" grip
51 Nut 14 3/8" NC Steel
52 Lockwasher 11 3/8" Steel
53 Bolt 4 3/8" NC Grade 5 Steel 1 112" Grip, 2" or longer
54 Bo1t 2 3/8" NC Grade 5 Steel 2" Grip, 2 112" or longer
55 Bolt 2 3/8" NC Grade 5 Steel 2 In" Grip, 3" or longer
56 Bolt 4 5116" NC Grade 5 Steel 314" Grip, 1 .I!2" or longer
57 Nut 4 5116" NC Steel
58 Lockwasher A 5/]6" Steel
-r
59 Wedge 1 114" X 1 1/2" 6 Hot rolled Stl Forge taper
60 Washers 18 112" ID X l/S" Steel
61 Cable/Clarno 1 1/8" dia 18 Steel Cable with Garage Door Springs
62 U 1 114" xl" 4.25 Hot Rolled Stl Forge to U shape
63 Tang 1 1" square 1.5 Hot Rolled Stl
64 Plate 2 3/4" X 4" 4 Hi Carbon Stl Spring or any high strength steel
65 Hard Plate. Btm 1 Assy 63+64
66 Hard Plate, Top 1 Assv 62+64
67 Connector Sides 4 I 1/2" x 1 1/2" 3 Hot Rolled Stl Sources: ©ClaySpe[Jcer1994

Spring Link, PN 29-Local spring company or Champ Spring Co., 2107 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, MO 63103, 314/231-7570. The upper Spring Link may be mild or hot rolled steel instead of spring steel. The Spring Links may be constructed by welding. Use two lengths of precision tubing, OS' ID x I" OD x 4" long and weld to flat spring(HRS for upper link). Preheat and post heat spring steel and use 7018 rod. Rack and Pinon, PNs 24 & 36 may be bought from gear and bearing supply houses. Browning part numbers are NSR12 x 3/!' and NSS1212.

Spring, PN 44 - Garage door company or Home Depot. Buy 2 springs, cut in half and use 3 balves. PN 61, Cable/Clamp comes with Home Depot springs. May use 12" long bungee cord with hooks instead of cable. Notes:

\Veld symbols are not shown for all welds. All high carbon steel should be preheated/postheated and welded with special rods such as 7018.

Dimensions are not shown where holes are located on centerlines.

Small variations in dimensions are usually OK except where it affects fit or assembly with mating parts. Sizes and materials may be changedJsubstuited as long as they are strong enough and fit with mating pans. The Anvil should be solid, either square or round. It may be welded up of slabs of material. If welded of slabs, leave a 1" slab in center two inches shorter than other slabs and delete PN 4. This leaves space for the bottom tool tang to come througb PN 5. The center slab may be several inches shorter or cut off at an angle so that a drift may slide out.

Spring Bar, PN43, - Length is equal to width of the Anvil, PN 1, plus 3". Adjust mounting holes to fit PN 12 holes. Length of Crank, PN 34 and number of spacers, PN 11 should be adjusted to suit Anvil width.

All the lead does not have to be melted. Cut lead in chunks with a hack under a power hammer or use torch. Put chunks in hammer tube and pour melted lead around chunks. Melt lead outside and don't breathe fumes. A solid hammer may be used if you don't like melting lead.

3

Base, Anvil and Column

I ....

32 in

Base, 1/2" plate Drilll/2" r holes 2" from each edge at each comer

..I

-...t 6 in. ~

36 m

Anvil 6" or 5" solid square or round

4

Column

4" sq. tubing 11 gage

60 in

r--4in ~

t

D 4in

1

I

~

Tool Holder

Tool Holder, Brace and Spring Link

- 1. Layout pittcrn for drilling I

I

2. Drill 1/4" hole

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3. Drill '1/4" pilot, - drill 1 "

I I I

--!3/8'H

4. File to 1" sq. or drift wi th 1" square from each side,

Hammer flat, dri£t ag-ain. _~

281n.

~I

8.5 in

Drill 7/16"

r
"
- I
I
3.0 in i
T Brace

Dri111/S"

1" 1. D. rolled eye

18.0 in

Press 4 Bushings 0 into eyes Spring Link

5

Treadle

I t, ~II-------- 14 in

28 in

20 in

16 in

12 in

Drill 7 /16"

_!.__---

I

I

I I

I 7 in I

! I

~--------++

I I

I I

I I

I

I

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Drill 1 /8" oil hole

<::>

6.9 in --l .. I

I. 10 in

6

Crimp in both sides of PN 7. Taper to 1/2" thick. at end.

Assembly of Base, Anvil and Column

o

®

23.5 in

o

Mark off centerline on Base.

Put on level floor.

Put Column on back of the Base.

Shim Column so it is vertical, on centerline, square with Base and even with back of Base.

Tack weld Column to Base.

Weld the Treadle to the front of the Column at 8" above the Base.

Put Anvil on Base centerline inside the Treadle so that the center of the 1" square hole is 23.5" from the front of the Column.

Shim Anvil so it is vertical and parallel with Column.

Tack weld Anvil to Base. Recheck the 23.5" and that the square hole is square with Column.

Weld the Braces to Anvil and Column at 32.5" above the Base. Use Spacers

to make Column plus Spacers wi d th

32.5 in equal to the Anvil width.

-.-

8in

t

7

Do not weld sides until Treadle is in place.

Weld Anvil and Column to Base.

o

o

Add lead to weigh 65lbs.

o

Handle

-@ _1

~ 3.5 in r--

D

---il.5~t

2.0 in

Lead Stop

Hammer

Bolt cheeks with spacer jig between and weld to tubing.

J_

1.5 in.

Tube

3.0 in

Oamp cheeks together and drill 1/2".

Dril11/2", saw out.

lin. T .-

I

I

I

I

I

I

I

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Weld lead stop in tube and file or grind flush.

10 in 12 in

Cheek

8

12 in 10 in

1 in.

t

Slider

Slider Parts

Do not weld. Weld at assembly

10 in 12 in

Clamp Cheeks together and drill 1/2"

Clamp Plate

®

Put rack on centerline

and weld 1" at each end Drill 9/16"

and center on each side. ®

-..,...-c:::=:===:,!:::::::-- 26

i

4.75 in

j_c:::::::::=::::

Oamp

We @ASSY

Bend to U shape.

9

12 in

Slider and Clamp Assembly

1" square, 4" long

COlumn/

Washers@

10

Shims

Clamps Weld

Shims

Bolt Hammer, Springs/and Slider Cheeks together. Put 4 Washers, 1/2" ID x 1/8" thick on each side of Spring Link at Slider bolts.

Put a length of 1" square, 4" long in Anvil Tool Holder and set Hammer on it.

Clamp Slider Cheeks to Column with .03" shims between Cheek and Column on one side.

Pu t level on Spring LIDk to make sure they are level.

Clamp Slider Plate to Column.

Weld Slider Cheeks to Slider Plate. Remove Shims.

Put Clamps and Oamp Plate over Cheeks and hold in place with C-clamps.

Weld Clamps to Cheeks.

S"~

9"

~

Cr~

Crank, Wedge and Hard Plates

Crank Bearing

4"

r--4.25~ I I

D~~

~1"1-4-

u

Tr-------.T

4in

l_~

14- 4 .

1- - m

Plate

1/2 in.

Weld

fr------,

Weld

Hard Plate, Hard Plate,

Bottom Top

Grind bevels for welds on tang and U. Preheat and postheat. Grind weld from sides of tang and U so they fit hole in PN 5. Heat Assemblies, PN 65 and PN 66 to red and put in hammer anvil and hit several blows to be sure tang and U are aligned.

11

Assemble Pinion, 2 Washers and 2 Crank Bearings on Crank.

With Spring Links level, clamp Crank Bearings to Column so Pinion is at top of Rack and Pinion

is meshed with Rack.

Weld Crank Bearings to Column.

Weld Washers and Pinion to Crank.

Weld Stop to Column just below Slider Plate.

Crank, Pinion, Stop Assembly

Level

12

3 in, r--

i

3.5 in

4.5 in

i

Oamp Plate

Connector

Weld all around 3/8" fillet

o

o

o

Assy

Link Connector

Spring and Link Connectors

~ Drill to fit9--"1

1 ~ I

I .... 11" I.... I

1 --1 ...... 11" I' I

1/2"

Length =.Anvil + 3':

Drill 7/16"

Spring Bar

r--1o,oin

j r-- 8.5 in - _

_....! ~---7,75"

groove

Spring Tube

, I

10.0 in ~I

8 ~ . ...1

..,._-- .J ill

EJJ

__ L- __

Drill 7 /16" Weld 3/8" fillet-

WMoun~d~. ~~~ :J

Assy

Link Bar

13

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,

Adjustable Link

Forge or grind only 1"

of screw to 5/8" thick. Clamp 5/8" thickness between Connector Sides ~-;;::::==-cr::::::Cl...-_--,. wi th 3/8" bol t and '-----r""?"'<===:t:;'"'\-r-..-/ nut, Weld Connect or Sides to screw.

31.0 in

Weld Spokes and Handwheel to Turnbuckle.

Saw V in pipe both sides and weld to screw,

14.S in

16.2 in

®

Length should be

adjusted 50 total length closed is 31".

Forge pipe to 5/8" thick for I" length.

Clamp 5/8" thickness between Connectors ,

- -- with 3/8" bolt and nut. Weld Connectors

to pipe.

Adjustable Link

14

Adjust length of spoke to fit turnbuckle.

Handwheel

Mark center of Spring.

Spread adjacent coils and heat a spot on the center coil with a torch until it separates.

Bend out a 2 turn loop, cold.

Spring

Drill 3/8"

_t_

3r~

@

Connector Sides

1/2"

Final Assembly

Install Clamp at 4.5" from back pivot.

Put hammer on anvil install spring links with bolts, spacer washers, nuts, and lockwashers.

---.J 4.5 in I I

Bolt Link Bar under Treadle.

Put Spring Tube through 3 Springs and bolt

under Treadle.

:,Bolt Spring Bar on top . :. of Braces.

A tram Springs wi th Eyebolts; use double nuts or locking nuts.

Push down on Treadle and attach Adjustable Link. Adjust spring tension.

Pu t Cable through 'A'edge and 1/4"

hole iI1 Hammer.

Put cable clamp on Cable inside hammer Tube.

Make sure 2J1 nuts are tigt't.

Oil all moving joints, includina spring

b 0

connections.

15

T H Tools

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Hard Plates, 4" square Grader Blade

L--Large Radus Fuler Medium Carbon

o

Clay Spencer 205/837-6996

208 Metaire Lane Madison, AL 35758

8 8

Teo and Bottrxn Full

1 , /2" Diarne ter, ea.- Axe

TID

Edge of AAviI Stake ~edu ... n Carbco Steel

Top aod B::> ttcm F ti lers 3/4~ Diamrur,Stxio:J

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Mush"c:cin St ~ ke End d Ax!!:

V Block

Too am Eottcm FulleN 1(2" D!;rnete", Col S~g

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Treadle Hammer Workshop

A few notes about using your new hammers. I never put my fingers under the hammer while forging. I recommend this practice for you. If you use fingers under the hammer it is not a matter of "IF you will mash" them but "WHEN you will mash them". You don't have to keep all your finger out from under the hammer, only the ones you don't want smashed. Use tongs, vise grips to hold punches, etc. Weld a handle on the tools. If you preheat and post heat around 400°F the welded handles do pretty good on many tool steels. Ball peens are made from good steel, have the hole already punched, are cheap and very available at flea markets.

The two hard plates, Or other mounted tools, should be in place when the hammer is used to prevent burring or rounding over the hardy holes in the harnrner and anvil. You can punch through the bottom holt but be very careful to stay off the edges.

Heat both the hard plates, individually, put ill the hammer (with wedge in lightly), or anvil and take a couple of good licks to seat them well. I usually reheat to the critical temperature (red to where a magnet will not pull on it) and normalize by laying on the forge or in ashes to anneal. Mark the front of each and always use in the pme orientation.

The flat spring connector plate may be adjusted to back Or front to suit your preference. I like it close to the back bolt, about 4 1/2" or 5" out from center of bolt to the center of the plate. The farther back it is, the more the hammer moves in relation to how far the treadle moves. If it is moved farther back the slider cheeks will stop the clamp plate. I take a torch or grinder and notch the checks some so the hammer will go up farther. Adjust the spring tension so it pulls the hammer up until it stops.

Before each forging operation, adjust height of hammer if necessary. Open clamps on back while holding crank, and then adjust hammer height. Reclamp.

Put the tool and stock under the hammer and adjust the turnbuckle so that it is clown low but does not hit the floor before the hammer hits the tool or stock. Put weight on the treadle by stepping on it to make the adjusting easier. The treadle should be down so you can get more force from your leg but the treadle should be kept from hitting the floor. 11' it hits the floor before the hammer hits the tool there is a lot of force to be absorbed through the treadle, turnbuckle and spring. Besides, it hurts to slam Y0Ll!" foot into the floor a hundred times. Switch legs every once and <I while. You will learn to dance on one foot before long.

The U for holding tools in the hammer is made from 1/4" x I", 4 1/4" long. Bevel the sides before welding and grind off most of the excess weld, Heat as above and fit to the hardy hole, grind off any excess weld metal that doesn't 2.0 into the hole. The tang for bottom tools can be made from 1" square. Heat and fit to the hole as above. ~For matched tools such as top and bottom fullers, put a U on both tools. Put one in line with the tool and the other at 90~ to the mating tool so vou can use from front or side bv switching which

tool you put in the hammer. If you like, you can mount the tangs and Us at 45~ angle.- ~. .

You can make many tools from ball peen hammers and you can use many of your regular blacksmithing tools such as spring fullers and swages, tanged fullers and swages. Power hammer tools such as hacks may also be used with the TH.

Since the hammers were put together with the holes aligned while the top link was horizontal, the holes should be aligned when the top link is flat. If the hammer is off to one side or the other, loosen the clamps, move the hammer over and reclarnp.

Keep your tools vertical and centered under the hammer or they may kick out. Listen to your h.::unmer. If it sounds stranze.icheck to see what is wrong. A rattling sound generally means that the wedge is loose. Check to see ~that we tightened the bolts on the spring ~clamp, turnbuckle and treadle. Retig~ten the bolts after a few weeks of use. The 112" bolts should be loose enough so the hammer moves easily. When y?U loosen the clamps at the back, have a good hold on the crank handle. When the slider is loose and free it

usually moves up, sometimes very fast. Oil the moving parts occasionally. .

Let me know if you have problems or questions. Clay Spencer, 205/837-6996. 203 Metmre Lane, Madison, AL 35758