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    Decorative Wrought Ironwork Projects for Beginners
    Decorative Wrought Ironwork Projects for Beginners
    Decorative Wrought Ironwork Projects for Beginners
    Ebook142 pages58 minutes

    Decorative Wrought Ironwork Projects for Beginners

    By Thomas F. Googerty

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    About this ebook

    An excellent introduction to the exciting world of ironwork, this easy-to-follow guide features dozens of simple, traditional plans for use by amateur craftspeople and students interested in metalworking. Articles in the collection have been selected for their simplicity, but some previous experience in at least a few of the more common, basic processes employed in forging metals is recommended.
    The manual contains everything metalsmiths and hobbyists could wish for, including precisely drawn-to-scale patterns, descriptive notes on the tools of the trade, and detailed instructions on the metalworking process. More than 45 illustrations provide clearly drawn designs for flowerpot holders and stands, ash trays, andirons, candlesticks, door latches and locks, hinges, lamps, door knockers, and other decorative domestic accessories.
    A rich source of information and inspiration, Decorative Wrought Ironwork Projects for Beginners invites hobbyists to choose from a remarkable variety of motifs that can be successfully fashioned with the help of working drawings and helpful notes on construction.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherDover Publications
    Release dateDec 3, 2012
    ISBN9780486164038
    Decorative Wrought Ironwork Projects for Beginners

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      Book preview

      Decorative Wrought Ironwork Projects for Beginners - Thomas F. Googerty

      Box

      Part I. Tools.

      The tools described on the following pages are intended to supplement and not to take the place of the usual outfit of tools that constitutes a blacksmith’s equipment. They are additional tools needed in making the objects described later in the book.

      Fig. 1. Rivet Set

      Rivet Set. One should have several rivet sets of different sizes, ″ octagonal tool steel. They should be made in pairs—one long and one short—the long to fasten in a vise to hold the head of the rivet, and the short one to use in making the head on the other end of the rivet.

      There should be larger rivet sets made with holes or eyes punched through them for a wooden handle. This kind of rivet set is used on large hot rivets. When one has use for a rivet set, it should be made and there should be a place in which to keep it with others.

      of the depression. The set is hardened and tempered in the same manner as a chisel. See page 19.

      Fig. 2. Steel Stamp

      Steel Stamp. Fig. 2 shows a drawing for a steel stamp that may be used to stamp hot iron with the worker’s initials. The stamp is made from ½″ octagonal tool steel, 85-point carbon. To make the stamp is a very simple job. Cut the piece 4½″ long and round up each end. Grind one end flat; then file it smooth. It is reheated and allowed to anneal. With a sharp red pencil, the initial is sketched on the end in reverse.

      The letter is cut into the steel with a very narrow chasing chisel. When the letter is cut lightly and correct in shape, it is gone over with a blunter chisel until the line is quite heavy. It should be tested as one proceeds. Do this by hammering it into lead. When it is finished, the edges are made a little round. Then it is hardened and tempered.

      When using, the stamp is held with a pair of tongs and struck with a hammer while the metal is hot. File a straight line across the stock to enable one to know when the letter is right-side up.

      Fig. 3. Vise Heading Tool

      Vise Heading Tool for Rivets. , for very small stock, to ¼″ in size. The paper is taken out and the holes are casehardened.

      To use the tool in heading rivets, short pieces of copper and iron are made round the size wanted. A piece of the stock is then put into the hole it fits. The tool is fastened in the vise. The end of the rivet bar is filed flat on the top, the right amount of stock being allowed for the head to project upward. With the hammer and rivet set, the head is made. It is well to make the ends of the prongs open a little to give the tool spring. The rivets when headed will come out more freely. The spring in the tool comes from the loop or eye.

      Line Gauge. In chasing lines on the surface of metal with small chisels and other tools, it is important to make a drawing with pencil or scratch awl; then go over the lines with the chasing tools.

      Fig. 4. Line Gauge

      Fig. 4 shows a gauge for the purpose of marking lines on the edges of straight or curved forms. The guard is held against the edges, and moved along, scratching the line. The line can be made quite deep and be easy to follow with the chasing tool when cutting. The gauge can be made from a clock spring or any thin metal. There should be several sizes of the gauge.

      Fig. 5. Surface Plate

      Surface Plate. Fig. 5 shows a surface plate mounted on a wooden trestle. The plate is 18″ x 28″, made from cast iron, and is 3″ deep. The underside is ribbed to lighten and strengthen it. The top is machined smooth. A surface plate is used to level work upon, and for a drafting board. Work can be layed out to the correct size with chalk marks on this plate and the iron fitted to the chalk marks. In a shop there should be small surface plates 12″ x 12″ for benchwork. They are very convenient. A surface plate 3″ thick, cast without ribs, is very useful in hammering heavy pieces to straighten them.

      Elm Block. When sheet metal is beaten up from one side to shape an ornament, it is called repoussé. We shall call it bumping up ornament on sheet metal.

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