Paladin Press Chemistry Explosives How To Make Semtex
Paladin Press Chemistry Explosives How To Make Semtex
Paladin Press Chemistry Explosives How To Make Semtex
Materials:
6. Rolling pin
8. Bowl
Procedure:
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_______________________
FILE BY: ASTROLITE A-15
Email: [email protected]
Web page: http://explosive.hactivist.net/
Like all chemists I must advise you all to take the greatest care and caution when you are
doing this. Even if you have made this stuff before. This first article will give you
information on making nitroglycerin, the basic ingredient in a lot of explosives such as
straight dynamites, and gelatin dynamites.
Making nitroglycerin
1. Fill a 75-milliliter beaker to the 13 ml. Level with fuming red nitric acid, of 98% pure
concentration.
2. Place the beaker in an ice bath and allow to cool below room temp.
3. After it has cooled, add to it three times the amount of fuming sulfuric acid (99%
H2SO4). In other words, add to the now-cool fuming nitric acid 39 ml. Of fuming
sulfuric acid. When mixing any acids, always do it slowly and carefully to avoid
splattering.
4. When the two are mixed, lower their temp. By adding more ice to the bath, about 10-
15 degrees centigrade. (Use a mercury-operated thermometer)
5. When the acid solution has cooled to the desired temperature, it is ready for the
glycerin. The glycerin must be added in small amounts using a medicine dropper. (Read
this step about 10 times!) Glycerin is added slowly and carefully (I mean careful!) Until
the entire surface of the acid it covered with it.
6. This is a dangerous point since the nitration will take place as soon as the glycerin is
added. The nitration will produce heat, so the solution must be kept below 30 degrees
centigrade! If the solution should go above 30 degrees, immediately dump the solution
into the ice bath! This will insure that it does not go off in your face!
7. For the first ten minutes of nitration, the mixture should be gently stirred. In a normal
reaction the nitroglycerin will form as a layer on top of the acid solution, while the
sulfuric acid will absorb the excess water.
8. After the nitration has taken place, and the nitroglycerin has formed on the top of the
solution, the entire beaker should be transferred slowly and carefully to another beaker of
water. When this is done the nitroglycerin will settle at the bottom so the other acids can
be drained away.
9. After removing as much acid as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerin, remove
the nitroglycerin with an eyedropper and place it in a bicarbonate of soda (sodium
bicarbonate in case you didn't know) solution. The sodium is an alkali and will neutralize
much of the acid remaining. This process should be repeated as much as necessary using
blue litmus paper to check for the presence of acid. The remaining acid only makes the
nitroglycerin more unstable than it already is.
10. Finally! The final step is to remove the nitroglycerin from the bicarbonate. This is
done with and eye- dropper, slowly and carefully. The usual test to see if nitration has
been successful is to place one drop of the nitroglycerin on metal and ignite it. If it is true
nitroglycerin it will burn with a clear blue flame.
CAUTION
Nitro is very sensitive to decomposition, heating, dropping, or jarring, and may explode if
left undisturbed and cool.
MERCURY FULMINATE 2
Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating compounds. It can be
detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it of infinite value to a terrorist.
Even the action of dropping a crystal of the fulminate causes it to explode. A person
making this material would probably use the following procedure:
Materials Required
* 5 g mercury
* 35 ml concentrated
* ethyl alcohol (30 ml)
* distilled water
* funnel and filter paper
* glass stirring rod
* 100 ml beaker (2) nitric acid
* adjustable heat source
* blue litmus paper
Procedure
Solvent alcohol must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury
fulminate. Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming.
Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They may be hard to find in
most stores as they have been superseded by alcohol and other less toxic fillings.
Mercury is also used in mercury switches, which are available at electronics stores.
Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should be kept in the thermometer or mercury
switch until used. It gives off mercury vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled.
For this reason, it is a good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it outdoors. Also,
do not get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent this.
1. In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid, using the
glass rod.
2. Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the solution
turns green and boils.
3. Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and carefully add all of
the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or brown fumes should appear. These fumes
are toxic and flammable.
4. After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that the reaction is
near completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the distilled water to the solution.
5. Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid solution. Dispose
of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive and toxic.
6. Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much excess acid as
possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are neutral. This will be when
the litmus paper stays blue when it touches the wet crystals
7. Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from any explosive
or flammable material.
This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available mercury cannot be weighed.
Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of ethanol to every one volume of
mercury.
1. Tennis Ball.
2. Duct Tape.
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Procedure-
Take the Tennis ball and cut a small hole in the top of it.
Cut the heads of the matches off and fill the whole tennis ball
with them. After it is filled up you must cover the hole with duct
tape and make sure that the match heads cant get out.
Throw it against a hard surface like concrete and it will
explode.
Homemade Blackpowder
Black powder can be prepared in a simple, safe manner. It may be used as blasting or gun
powder.
Material Required
* Potassium Nitrate, granulated, 3 cups (3/4 liter)
* Wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups
* Sulfur, powdered, 1/2 cup
* Alcohol, 5 pints (2-1/2 liters) (whiskey, rubbing alcohol, etc.)
* Water, 3 cups (3/4 liter)
* Heat source
* 2 buckets - each 2 gallon (7-1/2 liters) capacity, at least one of which is heat resistant
(metal, ceramic, etc.)
* Flat window screening, at least 1 foot (30 cm) square
* Large wooden stick
* Cloth, at least 2 feet (60 cm) square
Procedure:
1. Place alcohol in one of the buckets.
2. Place potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur in the heat resistant bucket. Add 1 cup
water and mix thoroughly with wooden stick until all ingredients are dissolved.
3. Add remaining water (2 cups) to mixture. Place bucket on heat source and stir until
small bubbles begin to form.
CAUTION: DO NOT boil mixture. Be sure ALL mixture stays wet. If any is dry, as on
sides of pan, it may ignite!
4. Remove bucket from heat and pour mixture into alcohol while stirring vigorously.
5. Let alcohol mixture stand about 5 minutes. Strain mixture through cloth to obtain black
powder. Discard liquid. Wrap cloth around black powder and squeeze to remove all
excess liquid.
6. Place screening over dry bucket. Place workable amount of damp powder on screen
and granulate by rubbing solid through screen. NOTE: If granulated particles appear to
stick together and change shape, recombine entire batch of powder and repeat steps 5 &
6.
7. Spread granulated black powder on flat, dry surface so that layer about 1/2 inch (1-1/4
cm) is formed. Allow to dry. Use radiator, or direct sunlight. This should be dried as soon
as possible, preferably in an hour. The longer the drying period, the less effective the
black powder.
CAUTION: Remove from heat AS SOON AS granules are dry. Black powder is now
ready to use.
Material Required
1. distilled water
2. table salt
3. sodium bicarbonate
4. concentrated nitric acid
5. concentrated sulfuric acid
6. glycerine
7. blue litmus paper
8. ice bath container acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well )
9. centigrade thermometer acid (39 ml)
Procedure
7. Stir the mixed acids and glycerin for the first ten minutes of nitration, adding ice and
salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution in the 100 ml beaker well
below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the nitroglycerin will form on the top of the mixed
acid solution, and the concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the
reaction.
8. When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerin is well below 30 degrees
centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of nitroglycerin and mixed acid into the
distilled water in the beaker in step 1. The nitroglycerin should settle to the bottom of the
beaker, and the water-acid solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as
much of the acid- water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerin.
9. Carefully remove the nitroglycerin with a clean eye-dropper, and place it into the
beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate much of the acid, which
will make the nitroglycerin more stable, and less likely to explode for no reason, which it
can do. Test the nitroglycerin with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this
step if necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2.
10. When the nitroglycerin is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean container in a
safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerin is far away from anything living, or from
anything of any value. Nitroglycerin can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is
stored in a secure cool place.
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Electrical-
Nonelectrical-
3. The paper casing must be made now. Here is how to make the casing:
Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound, and has been used in the
past as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such
countries as France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small amount of
potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the procedure that follows.
Materials Required
* A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)
* A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
* A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals)
* Potassium chloride (sold as a salt substitute at health and nutrition stores)
Procedure
1. Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin heating it. While this
solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being
heated. Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer, and boil until
you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL
charge.
2. Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it is between room
temperature and 0 degrees Celsius. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them.
Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.
3. Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with distilled water in the
following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until
it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling.
This process of purification is called "fractional crystallization". These crystals should be
relatively pure potassium chlorate.
4. Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to drive off all
moisture.
5. Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline
(camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered
crystals from above) into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate
until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate.
6. Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfides, and
phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density
of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block type charges
guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must
be used.
7. The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides, etc.) results in
mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and will possibly decompose
explosively while in storage. You should never store homemade explosives, and you
must use EXTREME caution at all times while performing the processes in this article.
2. Liquid Wrench
3. Fuse
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Procedure-
Put the liquid wrench in the pop can and stick a lite fuse
down in the can. It should smoke alot.
4 parts sugar
6 parts potassium nitrate (Salt Peter)
Heat this mixture over a LOW flame until it melts stirring well.
Pour it into a future container and before it solidifies imbed a
few matches into the mixture to use as fuses. One pound of this
stuff will fill up a whole block with thick white smoke!
MATERIAL REQUIRED:
Gasoline
C-4
Wide mouth jars, one pint (2 each)
Paper towels
Wooden stirring rod
Teaspoon
PROCEDURE:
Blasting cap
Wax
bottle or jar
Procedure
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1. Add 1 volume (cup, quart, etc) of mononitrobenzene to two volumes nitric acid in a
bottle or jar.
Note: Nitric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash well with
water. Don't inhale the fumes!
How to Use
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Note: Confining the open end will increase effectiveness of the weapon.
Materials:
1. Nitric Acid
2. Pentaerythritol
3. Lye
4. Acetone
6. Thermometer
7. Pan
8. Salt/water/ice mix
9. Cloth
10. Buckets
11. Bowls
Procedure:
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_______________________
FILE BY: ASTROLITE A-15
Email: [email protected]
Web Page: http://explosive.hactivist.net/
Materials Required:
3. Duct Tape.
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Procedure-
3. Duct Tape
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Procedure-
3. Glass Jar
4. Rubber Band
5. Coffe Filter
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Procedure-
Take the coffer filter and put it over the top of the
glass jar. Then take the rubber band and wrap it around
the filter to hold it in place. Then place the iodine
crystals on top of the coffe filter and pour ammonia
over the crystals making sure to cover all the crystals.
Now with the crystals still wet stick them in one of the
tuna fish cans. Then take the second tuna fish can and
drive the nail through the center of it, then take the
nail out and set it aside. Now duct tape the can with
the explosive in it and the can with the hole in it
together. Now put the nail in the hole in the can and
let it rest on the crystals very lightly. Now take the
mine and bury it under ground with the nail head barely
sticking and not visible. Let it sit there for about a
day so the crystals can dry. The way the mine works is
when the nail head is stepped on the nail will get pushed
down into the crystals causing them to explode. The size
of the explosion will be determined by how much crystals
you used and how long you let the crystals dry. The dryed
the more explosive they are. Be careful not to step on
the mine accidently because it could blow off you legs
and possibly more.
_______________________
File By: Astrolite A-15
Questions? Email me at [email protected]
-------Vortex-------
- Firework fountains -
This file will simple explain how to make a fountain like the kind
you see on the fourth of july. First of all you need some flash powder.
SLIGHTLY moisen the flash powder with a couple drops at a time with water.
mold this into balls from about .177 cal. bb to a 22 cal. bb in size and
allow them to dry for about 3 days in the hot sun. Then put all of these
into a container nice and snug and stick a fuse in it not puting any lids
on. Light this and you will have a nice little display with some practice.
It is really cool when you make different colored balls for different
colored sparks. Be Creative!