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    Eas/Bioee 154 Introduction To Oceanography: Tides

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    agungpriyanto
    Tides are caused by the gravitational pull of the Moon and Sun, which causes two bulges in the Earth's oceans. The timing and height of tides varies depending on location. Tides can be diurnal (one cycle per day), semidiurnal (two cycles per day), or mixed. A tidal day is longer than a solar day because of the Moon's orbit. Tides are treated as either an equilibrium model (idealized view) or dynamic theory (more sophisticated view accounting for factors like bathymetry and Coriolis effect). Under the dynamic theory, tides are considered shallow water waves that can be refracted or rotated due to various forces. Spring tides occur when the Sun and Moon

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    Eas/Bioee 154 Introduction To Oceanography: Tides

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    agungpriyanto
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    Tides are caused by the gravitational pull of the Moon and Sun, which causes two bulges in the Earth's oceans. The timing and height of tides varies depending on location. Tides can be diurnal (one cycle per day), semidiurnal (two cycles per day), or mixed. A tidal day is longer than a solar day because of the Moon's orbit. Tides are treated as either an equilibrium model (idealized view) or dynamic theory (more sophisticated view accounting for factors like bathymetry and Coriolis effect). Under the dynamic theory, tides are considered shallow water waves that can be refracted or rotated due to various forces. Spring tides occur when the Sun and Moon

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    Tides are caused by the gravitational pull of the Moon and Sun, which causes two bulges in the Earth's oceans. The timing and height of tides varies depending on location. Tides can be diurnal (one cycle per day), semidiurnal (two cycles per day), or mixed. A tidal day is longer than a solar day because of the Moon's orbit. Tides are treated as either an equilibrium model (idealized view) or dynamic theory (more sophisticated view accounting for factors like bathymetry and Coriolis effect). Under the dynamic theory, tides are considered shallow water waves that can be refracted or rotated due to various forces. Spring tides occur when the Sun and Moon

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    20 views3 pages

    Eas/Bioee 154 Introduction To Oceanography: Tides

    Uploaded by

    agungpriyanto
    Tides are caused by the gravitational pull of the Moon and Sun, which causes two bulges in the Earth's oceans. The timing and height of tides varies depending on location. Tides can be diurnal (one cycle per day), semidiurnal (two cycles per day), or mixed. A tidal day is longer than a solar day because of the Moon's orbit. Tides are treated as either an equilibrium model (idealized view) or dynamic theory (more sophisticated view accounting for factors like bathymetry and Coriolis effect). Under the dynamic theory, tides are considered shallow water waves that can be refracted or rotated due to various forces. Spring tides occur when the Sun and Moon

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    of 3

    EAS/BIOEE 154

    Lecture 13
    Introduction to Oceanography
    Tides
    What are tides?
    Tides are the rhythmic rise and fall of ocean water caused by the gravity of
    the Moon (and Sun).
    Tides are not the same everywhere
    Timing
    Diurnal ~ 1 daily cycle
    Semidiurnal ~ 2 daily cycles
    Mixed ~ 2 cycles, but of very different heights
    Tidal range varies from 10s of cm to >10 m
    Why?

    Equilibrium Model of Tides


    Highly idealized, but very instructive, view of Tides
    Tide wave treated as a deep-water wave in equilibrium with lunar/solar
    forcing
    No interference of tide wave propagation by continents
    No Coriolis Effect.
    Simple Diurnal Tides
    Gravity and centrifugal force act to produce two bulges on opposite sides of
    the Earth.
    Gravity pulls water toward Moon
    Reduced gravitational force on side opposite the moon allows centrifugal
    forces to pull water outward.
    Earths rotation under the tidal bulge produces the rise and fall of tides over
    approximately 1 day
    Tidal Day = 24h + 50min; additional 50 minutes to due motion of the moon.
    Why dont we see simple diurnal tidal patterns always and everywhere?
    Inclination of the Moons orbit
    The moons orbit is inclined up to 28.5 relative to the Earths equator and
    this produces different tidal patterns at different latitudes (varies between
    18.5 & 28.5 over 18 years).
    Theoretically produces diurnal tides at high latitude, semidiurnal tides at
    low latitude, and mix tides at mid-latitudes
    The Sun
    Gravitational force exerted on ocean surface about half that of the moon
    Particularly strong tides (spring tides) when Sun and Moon are aligned
    Weak tides (neap tides) occur when Sun and Moon are 90 degrees to
    each other.
    Spring and neap tides occur semi-monthly
    Wave-like behavior of tides dynamic theory of tides

    Dynamic Theory of Tides

    A more sophisticated view of tides

    EAS/BIOEE 154

    Lecture 13

    Tidal wave treated as a shallow-water forced wave


    Coriolis Force considered
    Continents interfere with tidal wave propagation
    Tide Waves Are Shallow-Water Waves
    The tidal wave has wavelength (L) on the order of 1/2 the circumference of
    the earth or about 20,000 km.
    A wave will behave as a shallow water wave when depth < L/20 in this
    case, for depth < 1000 km.
    Since ocean bottom depths are typically only about 4 km, it is safe to
    assume that a tide wave is a shallow-water wave everywhere
    Tidal wave can be refracted by bathymetry
    Tidal waves are forced shallow-water waves because tidal forces exerted
    on the ocean by the moon and sun constantly interfere with the free
    propagation of the shallow water wave.
    The wave speed for a shallow water wave in 4km of water is 200m/sec (400
    miles/hr). The speed that the earth rotates under the moon at the equator
    is 463m/sec (1044 miles/hr).
    As a consequence, ocean depth alone does not determine the tide wave.
    Earths rotation and frictional bottom drag on the Tidal Wave causes the tidal
    bulge to be pulled in front of the direct line to the Moon
    The Coriolis Effect
    Because of the large scales involved, tidal waves are deflected by the
    Coriolis Effect, or Force.
    Coriolis Force is an apparent force that results from the Earths rotation and
    deflects movement to the right in the northern hemisphere (opposite in
    southern hemisphere).
    Coriolis Force causes rotation of tidal currents and tidal wave
    Rotary Tides
    Tides rotate in large basins some (e.g., Pacific) have several rotary tides
    Cotidal line: same phase of wave, e.g., high tide
    Corange line: same height of tidal wave
    Amphidromic point: central point about which tides rotate.

    Tide Measurements & Prediction

    Tides are measured automatically by tide gauges around the world.


    Modern tide gauges are simply pressure meters located beneath low-tide
    level.
    Tides have also been measured by the TOPEX-Poseidon satellite
    Tides are complex functions of not only the driving forces lunar and solar
    gravity), but also basin geometry. They are difficult to predict from theory
    alone.
    Most tide predictions are empirical - done by fitting mathematical functions to
    match past tide measurements, then using these equations to predict
    future tides.
    Before digital computers, mechanical machines were used to predict tides.

    Areas of Extreme Tidal Range

    EAS/BIOEE 154

    Lecture 13

    Examples:
    Northwestern Europe (Mt. St. Michel)
    Bay of Fundy (Maine, New Brunswick)
    Tidal Bores, e.g., Seine, Amazon, Qiantang
    Such large tides occur when the forcing frequency matches free wave
    frequency, a phenomenon called resonance occurs and the free wave
    interacts with the forced wave to produces a much larger wave than would
    otherwise occur.
    Deeps on basin geometry

    Storm tides are a combination of:

    High tide
    Water driven shoreward by storm winds
    Water rise due to low atmospheric pressure

    Some Study Questions


    Explain the difference between diurnal, semi-diurnal, and mixed
    tides.
    Why is the tidal day 50 minutes longer than the solar day?
    Why are there two tidal budges on the Earth rather than just one
    on the side facing the Moon?
    How does the inclination of the Moons orbit affect whether a
    diurnal or semi-diurnal tide occurs?
    Why are tides considered shallow water waves?
    What is the configuration of the Sun, Moon and Earth when spring
    tides occur? How often do spring tides occur?
    Explain the difference between cotidal and corange lines.
    What are the conditions necessary for resonance to occur and
    how does it affect tides when it does?

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