CRT TV Repair Course by Humphrey-Preview
CRT TV Repair Course by Humphrey-Preview
CRT TV Repair Course by Humphrey-Preview
By Humphrey Kimathi
http://humphreykimathi.blogspot.com
By Humphrey Kimathi
The reader of this book is expressly warned to consider and adopt all safety precaution that might be indicated by the activities Herein and to avoid all potential hazards.
The author particularly disclaims any liability, loss or risk taken by individuals who directly or indirectly act on the information Contained herein. The author believes that the information presented here is sound, but readers cannot hold him responsible For either the actions they take or the result of those actions.
All Rights Reserved
No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the owner.
Preface CRT Television repair course 2011 Edition is an E book covering all the major building blocks in CRT television with emphasis given to real life scenario from the technician work bench and therefore provide a good source of reference for practicing technicians. The book is divided into two parts: Part one: is composed of 18 chapters of the major circuit blocks in CRT TV and explains basic functions and common problems associated with these blocks. Part Two: is composed of 10 chapters of pure real life repair histories from the technician work bench. The book is illustrated with numerous color photos to make the reader learn faster and get the concept pretty fast. To navigate the book just click on the Chapter reference on the list of contents and it will jump straight to the very topic and to go back to the first page just click on your keyboard (Ctrl + Home) key.
List of Content
Chapter 1:Introduction to Television Repair Career Chapter 2:Component found in the Power supply(S.M.P.S) Chapter 3:Understanding S.M.P.S sub units Chapter 4: Solving power supply problems(smps) using control ic.
Chapter 5:Solving power supply problem for Television using transistor instead of control ic. Chapter 6: Understanding the Secondary power supplies
Tools of trade
Every trade have his own tools of trade, for Television repairs the minimum you should have include:--
Fuse
When you switch on the Television via power switch, the power passes through a fuse which is used for safety purposes, so whenever you see a fuse has failed don't blame it because that why it there to do-that is to blow if there is a problem with the power supply like a shot, the fuse will cut off the power to the equipment to avoid further damage to the equipment. And also preventing the equipment from catching fire! So next time you see a fuse has blown you need to appreciate it for job well done, on the same note I believe you have understood why you should never replace a fuse with a Jumper wire- always think safety first to you and also to your customers. Fuse often fail by being open and you can easily confirm that with a meter set to low ohm resistance.
Varistor
Another components found in the smps in some of the good design is the Varistor, see picture below
Varistor
This is also a safety component and is always connected on across the AC power line, but they do not conduct unless the AC voltages increases above normal like during power surge caused by Lightening or using outlet which is not well regulated like using generators. So if there a power surge the varistor will conduct and because it is connected across the AC power line it will create a short circuit across the power line and hence force the fuse to blow and hence disconnect the equipment from further damages.
Bottom side
in CRT television, you can use this principle in repairing CRT monitor too.
1 Television is Dead
Here dead I mean the set does not show any sign of life, power ON LED is not lighted and nothing happens
If the voltage is reaching the circuit board, then look for the fuse and see if it is blown, if the fuse is okay check also the surge limiter is open or not. If these two components are ok then most likely there is no short on the primary side of the power supply note: Short in the primary side of the power supply usually cause the surge limiter or the fuse to blow. From now on we shall be using the main capacitor negative as the Ground for all the measurement of Voltages on the primary side of the power supply. I have modified my meter ground probe with a crocodile clip so that I can attach it to ground point of the equipment I am repairing and therefore I use only one hand to probe the circuit. This is a safety precaution because as you know for there to have a potential difference there must be a connection between the live and the ground. So if you are using your two hands and incidentally touch the live and the ground then current will flow through your body and this can be fatal. But if you are using one hand it is not possible.
Chapter 5:Solving power supply problem for Television using transistor instead of control ic.
These types of the television are also very common in the market and therefore I would like to highlight how to go about them when troubleshooting their power supply. These television are mostly imported from china and if you have been working on them you will notice that they all have the same circuit diagram but different faces and Names and therefore in this lesson I am going to use an Akira Television as our case study.
On the above picture you can see the main component that you would find on the primary power supply when you open up the Television. Please take some time to locate these component on the actual board if you have one near you. The First thing you should do when a customer bring in this type of television as usual is to confirm what the complain wasI mean if he or she said no power or no audio please confirm the same before even opening the set. Then open the set and scan around the primary power component both the top and underside and see if there is catastrophic failure on any component(e.g. a broken component which you can see with your own eyes without using the meter) Then if there was no power at all check with your meter the state of the fuse or the surge limiter and see if they are broken. If any of them is broken dont replace it first before you check the state of the Chopper transistor(in our case D1710)
outputs on the secondary side to supply different blocks in the television set.
Usually the number of output from the secondary side of the chopper transformer varies from model to model
this television secondary supplies we will have covered all the china made televisions because from my experience these set are using the same circuit diagram, the only different is the external cover and the model name but the moment you open one you will find that the circuit board is the same with very little variation and the moment you master one model there you go..these television include include GLD,AUCMA, FLAMINGO, etc. Below you can see the diagram of the Akira television made in china and if you look at the circuit below you notice that it has several secondary output and we will analyze them one by one.
Before you analyze them first let me point out that all measurement on the secondary side of the power supply
we shall be using the cold ground has we learn t in earlier chapter. Also to check the output voltage from the chopper transformer you have to measure Voltage at the cathode Of the secondary diode.
Whenever you find any of these component is open and you replace it most of the time you will find that the same component open again. This is because there is a fault(short) somewhere else and what the fuse is doing is a safety measure to cut of the supply otherwise fire can even break out from the equipment. So the rule of the thumb is that whenever you find a fuse or surge limiter is gone never replace it until you have checked the condition of the switching transistor or control ic in that power supply. To check the switching transistor set analogue meter to X1 and measure between leg marked C and E 1)with the red probe on the middle leg C and black probe on leg marked E. 2)with the black probe on the middle leg C and the red probe on the leg marked E.
2 1 1 1 1 6 1 75W/100W/150W
Chapter 9: Using the series bulb for find shorted component on the primary supply
In chapter seven we discussed some of the causes that can cause the fuse or the surge limiter to blow In this lesson we are going to learn how you can use the series bulb to find hard to find short in the primary power supply.. I mean primary because short on the secondary side rarely causes the fuse to blow but only causes the power supply to appear dead. Sometimes component can develop semi short and very hard to test them with a meter like one time I came across a transistor which was shorted base-emitter junction which was around 82 ohms and as you know most meter recognize a short if it reads less than 30 ohms. Therefore a component which is shorted and the reading is higher than 30 ohms the meter will assume that it is okay but when you subject that component to the power source then it will manifest as short This is where this gadget comes in to help locate the component which is presenting short under load Using the above diagram/circuit you can disconnect the component highlighted with an arrow one at a time and the moment you disconnect the culprit you will notice that the brightness will go down.
From the diagram above the circuit on your left of the blue vertical line is the horizontal drive circuit Basically this circuit is composed of five important component which includes. 1.RC- network-used to protect the drive transistor from induces voltages from the drive transformer 2.Current resistor-Set the current and voltage to the driver stage 3.Filter Capacitor-Filter and boost the current to the driver stage by charging and discharging through the drive transformer primary. 4.Drive transistor-act as on/off switch, can be either a bipolar or MOSFET transistor.
5.Drive transformer-this is basically used for impedance matching between the horizontal drive circuit and horizontal output circuit
The fly back transformer is feed with the main supply from the power supply called the B+ which is a direct current(dc) and in return generates other voltages like the eht which is over 24 kV volts Dc for the EHT cap , the focus Voltage between 5 kV to 8 kV and the screen voltage which is around 200 to 800 vdc
On the body of the fly back transformer it has two adjustable Potentiometers, the upper one adjust the focus voltage and the lower one adjust the screen Voltage.
The screen voltage behaves as brightness control and therefore whenever you find the screen is dark especially after replacing the fly back and the screen is still dark even after using the remote brightness control button then consider adjusting this knob little and see if the brightness increases. The focus knob is used to focus the picture and therefore if you find again after replacing the fly back the picture is dis focused then you also try to adjust the focus knob a little.
If you adjust the focus and still not change to the picture then perhaps the CRT is faulty or the fly back itself is bad, but before you change these first change the CRT neck socket and see if the focus improves. Also in some model the RGB amplifiers supply comes from the fly back transformer(usually around 180 Vdc) This Voltage if it is missing or low usually causes the screen to be very bright and with lines across the screen but when this voltage is high causes the screen to appear dark(blank).
troubleshooting this kind of problem is the small CRT neck circuit attached to the back of the CRT tube. Usually color problems are easy to solve if you do some preparation to analyze failure on this circuit And the best way to analyze this faults is to do voltage testing on the critical test point of this circuit and by so doing you will narrow down to the actual fault section pretty fast. But first you need to have a rough estimate of the actual voltages expected on those test points in order to analyze the information correctly.
Below I have reproduced a chart of estimated voltages at those points but may vary from set to set but not
Now that there is something on the screen it means the HV is present and therefore the fly back is okay and the heater circuit is okay and therefore not considered for troubleshooting. First check for dry joints around this circuit by tapping this small board with the back of your screw driver and see if the color changes every time you tap this circuit softly.
You can invest on a mirror(medium size) and be watching the screen from the mirror when you are working
behind the television and you want to see the screen without straining yourself.
If the color keep on changing or you see some splashes on the screen expect dry joints around this board and therefore you should re solder it thoroughly.
Then suspect some problem on the vertical circuit, others may have some write line at the top or bottom part of the screen. Others you can see an horizontal line across the screen but there is picture at the top and below that line but the picture is somehow distorted/squashed but the sound is okay in all those scenarios.
Also black stripe above and below the screen is common, symptoms like lines on top of the screen or no image at the bottom points to a faulty Capacitor around the vertical ic.
Usually for the tuner to function it will require the Vcc-in the above model is 9 volts and if this voltage is missing then the tuner will not work and hence no picture and no audio.
Chapter 20: PANASONIC TV MODEL TC-14E1T with intermittent single horizontal line (blue),
sometimes screen is lit but no picture, sound ok. Also the osd(i.e. channel number is visible but blurred) Intermittent problems are mostly caused by dry joints; you can confirm this by hitting the Television gently with bare hand on the sides. This I did and confirmed there were many dry joint because the screen kept on changing.
Sometimes I even managed to get a picture, which was reddish purple in color. I mean this Television has all sort of weird symptoms. The Television was using I.C LA7837 for the vertical Drive so I decided to Google for the datasheet of this IC and I bumped on this shown in the diagram below.
You know sometimes if you fail to get the circuit diagram of the exact model you are working on you can go round this problem by getting only the data sheet of the suspect I.C and this can go a long way in assisting you to know which pin is which for proper diagnosis. Very important is the supply (v cc pin) which is very important because a new working I.C from the factory is as good as a bad one if the V CC supply is missing, its like trying to drive a new car without gasoline.
That is why it is very important to make sure the supply voltage to any I.C is present and is correct value. So from the data sheet I was able to see that for this particular I.C LA7837 it is feed by three Voltage sources. Pin 1 is feed with 12 Volt DC; pin 8 and 13 is feed with 24 volts each, Please note that the 12 volts is from the secondary of the power supply and the 24 Volts is from the secondary of the fly back transformer and therefore one can fail and the other remain but still the vertical I.C will not work. I mean if any of the three supplies is missing the vertical I.C will not work and therefore if you find any of the supply missing be sure to do the voltage testing from that pin backward and find out what is blocking the voltage.
Look for open fusible resistor or filter capacitor for that line has developed high ESR. Usually if capacitor has high ESR causes the supply for that line to drop. One thing I was sure about is that there was a problem with the vertical circuit. I measured all the components around the vertical I.C and they seem okay according to my meter.
The voltages were also okay to me. I.e. main supply 24volts both sides of the diode, and 12 volts for pin 1.
2. Sound was okay. As a technician you can make a lot of conclusion just by watching the screen if you have a good knowledge on how that equipment circuit works.
Yes! I noted one capacitor with the top part swollen, the capacitor was rated 100uF/160V, in electronics sometimes if you dont have the schematic you can have an idea of the voltage expected on any line by using the working voltage of the main filter capacitor of that line, for example usually when designing circuit the rule of the thumb is that the working voltage of the filter capacitor should be double the expected voltage on that line.
Therefore a capacitor rated 160 volts like the one above expect around 90 volts to 120 volts on that line, usually in television this capacitor with the 160Volts rating supply the B+ voltage to the fly back and therefore it is the main source on the secondary side of the power supply output.
Next I decided to check the state of the fuse and it passed the meter test with flying colors, so I decided to apply power and do some voltage testing. I applied power and to my surprise nothing happened, no smoke so I concluded that whoever said that he switched off after seeing the smoke did it a little too late. So I started my voltage testing, with my meter negative probe on the main capacitor negative pin, I started to test the voltage at the actual main capacitor and there were zero Volts Nothing! Hint: when you get zero volt on a circuit means there must be an open circuit or component but not a short,
usually a short causes voltage to go low and pulsating(at least there must be some funny reading on the
meter)
Chapter 23: JVC 14'' DEAD AFTER A VOLTAGE SURGE FROM A GENERATOR
The customer complains was that the TV was blown by high voltage from a generator.
I opened the set and scanned around the primary side of the power supply and found the main filter capacitor was bulging out.
I replaced it together with the control chip (str-G6653) which almost always goes when there is power surge.
After replacing the two components the set came up but no color (Picture was black and while) with some very thin lines across the screen. I hit the set softly with my bare hands and the color came on but intermittent.
1. Screen height is narrow. 2. A SINGLE HORIZOTAL LINE across the picture 3. Clear picture below the line but distorted picture above the line. 4. Also lines across the upper part of the screen. 5. There is also blank part above and below the screen.
I opened the set and I measured the voltage across the main capacitor. No voltage was found-absolutely zero volts. Alas what is the problem now? All over a sudden I heard a loud crack sound and noticed a resistor has broken downsee resistor R904 above across the degaussing coil- what was it doing there in the first place(anyway in most set its written optional but in this case it was there) I never had a chance to know its actual value to date. It was also very hot and broke into pieces.
2. Fuse blown, clear inside- Means the fuse might have died through natural dead.
After I replaced the fuse it didnt blow again confirming to me that there was no serious shorted component (I mean component shorted which is taking the supply directly to the ground. I measured the output voltages and there was none: absolutely zero volts. Then I checked the voltage at the main capacitor and it was 320 v dc which is okay. The voltage was also reaching the switching transistor collector same voltage. I measured the S.O.T base voltage and it was 0.02 volts. I followed the start up circuit divider and the voltage was ok and no resistor was open. But from the above voltage measurement you find the Zero volts at the base of the s.o.t is suspect.
Either the S.O.T (v513)is sorted base-emitter because its taking the voltage to the ground. ). Or V512(c3807) is shorted collector-emitter because its also taking the base of the s.o.t to the ground. Or capacitor c517 across the collector emitter of v512(c3807) is shorted to the ground.
Chapter 27: Sony TV 1902 GE..NO PICTURE NO SOUND only screen display i.e. channel Number.
This is quite old machine over 10 years. The customer complains was that the machine has intermittent
picture on and off. Usually if the picture misses they would tap slightly at the back of the TV at the RF inputs. Also the TV used to have a drift on the channel when off (every time they put off the TV they must tune again because they find the channel is not clear). First suspect dry joint. I did a thorough check for dry joint and I did all that I could but to no avail. Next is voltage checking around the CRT circuit and I noticed that the RGB collector voltage is high.. i.e. 200 Volts before and after the 15 k resistor. All the three cathode. I measured the RGB BIAS VOLTAGE and I found 0.76 Volts in all three. Hence the reason why the collector voltage was not dropping. i.e. its like the RGB TRANSISTOR ARE OPEN BECAUSE THERE IS NO BIAS VOLTAGE.
I followed that circuit up the main Jungle ic and the voltage was the same.. I suspected the ic could be faultybut before I embark on that mission I was to be very sure it is that ic because it is quite expensive to change. By the way all other low signal voltage were ok..the 9 v, 12 volts were ok meaning the ic and the turner is getting powered. I did esr test around the processor ic and changed whatever capacitor I was not happy with but still no change. Then when fixing the Ariel into its sockets I noticed that it has some effect like if there is some disconnection inside the turner.
Conclusion
My dear friends and fellow technicians we have come to the end this course on CRT Television troubleshooting and repair. And my final word I can give to you is a quote by Albert Einstein, the most famous physicist of all time, he was known for his brilliant mind and gentle spirit, who believed he was just one small part of the world, trying to figure things out. He said Anyone with a functional brain can soon become an expert in any field if he or she would simply study the subject only fifteen minutes a day. I believe if you can follow that simple principle when studying this course then I will be looking for you at the top. Wishing you all the best in your future endeavors Humphrey Kimathi Author of CRT Television repair course.