The Complete Nose to Tail: A Kind of British Cooking

SOMETHING TO GET THE JUICES GOING AND PREPARE YOU FOR LUNCH

CAMPARI AND WHITE WINE

I thought we should start this book with something to lead you into your indulgence, a cleansing glass to get the juices going. It’s known in Italy as a bicyclette, as old men drink it and then wobble home on their bikes. Interestingly, Harry’s Bar in Venice refuses to serve this concoction, rather as if it’s Italy’s version of a snakebite, but do not be deterred.

In a wineglass pour a measure of Campari, add some ice and top up with dry white wine. With trial and error, you shall find your chosen strength.

Your good health and appetite!

SOUP

(Never underestimate the power of Soup)

VEAL TAIL AND PEA SOUP

PUMPKIN AND BACON SOUP

PEA AND PIG’S EAR SOUP

FENNEL, BUTTER BEAN, OX TONGUE AND GREEN SAUCE

CHICKEN BROTH AND WILD GARLIC

NEW SEASON GARLIC AND BREAD SOUP

NETTLE AND SNAIL SOUP

POTATO AND FATBACK SOUP

LEEK, POTATO AND OYSTER SOUP

ONION SOUP AND BONE MARROW TOAST

COCK-A-LEEKIE

VEAL TAIL AND PEA SOUP

To serve four

This is a perfect case of why you must befriend your butchers and give them a bit of advance warning. They should be able to get you the tails. If they come in dribs and drabs, get your brine bucket out and use it as a holding tank until you have amassed enough tails.

veal bones, roasted in a hot oven for half an hour

stock vegetables—carrot, leek, celery, onion, garlic—roughly chopped

a bundle of parsley, thyme and a little rosemary

2 veal tails per person, brined for at least a week, then a good soak in fresh water overnight to desalinate

sea salt and black pepper

2 pounds fresh peas in their pods, podded just before use—or you could apply the theory a wise chef once told me, which was to use fresh when peas are in season and otherwise use frozen

Put the roasted veal bones, chopped stock vegetables and bundle of herbs into a pot. Place the tails on top, cover with water and simmer for 3 hours, skimming as you go. Then, using a sharp knife to make sure that the tails are thoroughly cooked, remove gently and put to one side.

Strain the broth and chill it thoroughly. Clarify the broth as described. Return to the heat and check the seasoning. Reintroduce the tails and, at the last moment, add the peas and serve.

Encourage the use of fingers in the picking up of the tails and giving them a good gnaw. This soup is a thing of beauty, with tails and peas bobbing about in a clear broth . . . Ahhh.

PUMPKIN AND BACON SOUP

Should easily serve twelve

A dish suitable for a large autumnal gathering. One pumpkin will feed many. For preference, choose an organic one, with a whitish/green skin that feels very hard; they are often available from health-food shops and some supermarkets.

3 onions, peeled

3 leeks, cleaned

5 peeled cloves of garlic

extra-virgin olive oil

2 to 2¼ pound piece of smoky bacon, cubed or in chunks—keep skin in one piece

4 tinned tomatoes

1 pumpkin

3 bay leaves

a bundle of fresh thyme and parsley

at least 3¾ quarts ham or chicken stock

sea salt and black pepper

Chop your onions, leeks and garlic. Put a good dose of olive oil into your pot, add the chopped vegetables and cook but do not brown. Add your chopped bacon and its skin. When these have released their fat, squish the tomatoes in your hands and add them, giving your dish a slight blush. Let all this cook down until you feel that they have really got to know each other, a gentle 25 minutes or so.

While this is happening, peel, seed and chop your pumpkin into approximately 1 inch chunks. Add these and let them cook for about 5–10 minutes. Then add the bay leaves and the thyme and parsley bundle. Now add the stock, enough so that you end up with an Arctic Sea of soup with icebergs of pumpkin bobbing about in your broth. Simmer until the pumpkin is soft and giving, but not falling apart (though a little disintegration is not a bad thing), say 30–40 minutes. Season to taste and serve hot.

PEA AND PIG’S EAR SOUP

To serve four

This is based on a very dour recipe—dried peas, pig’s ears and water, the ear giving a certain body to the soup—but it is no less delicious for that.

1½ quarts flavorsome ham stock (preferably the water you boiled a ham in) or a ham bone plus a head of garlic

1 pound 1 ounce green dried split peas, soaked in water overnight and drained

2 pig’s ears (ask your butcher, these should not be hard to obtain; singe off as much hair as you can)

2 whole white onions, peeled

sea salt and black pepper

vegetable oil for frying

If you’re using stock, bring it to the boil in a pan with the split peas, ears and onions, and then simmer until the peas are soft and cooked to a thick soupy consistency (approximately 3 hours). If it starts to get too thick add more stock or water. If you have a ham bone, just cover this with water, add your garlic, split peas, ears and onion, and cook the same way as with stock, though it will probably need some skimming. Add more water if it is getting too thick. Season to taste. Remove the onions and, if you have taken that route, the head of garlic and the ham bone.

Extract the ears from the soup, rinse them and dry them carefully. Allow them to cool and firm up, then slice very thinly. Heat vegetable oil in a deep frying pan (or deep fryer if you have one) and drop the ears in. Be careful, as even if dry they are likely to spit. Stir to avoid them sticking in one great mass. When crispy remove from the oil and lay on kitchen paper to drain off excess fat. Serve the soup hot. On top of each bowl place a cluster of crispy ear.

If you have any boiled ham left up your sleeve you could incorporate small chunks in your soup.

FENNEL, BUTTER BEAN, OX TONGUE AND GREEN SAUCE

Makes a pot that will do a hearty lunch for six

A lot going on for a soup, but what a soup!

1 ox tongue, brined for 10–14 days

a few stock vegetables, such as carrot, leek, celery, onion, garlic, roughly chopped

extra-virgin olive oil

6 heads of fennel, sliced thinly against the grain

4 firm white onions, peeled and sliced 3mm thick

8 cloves of garlic, peeled and left whole

1 small glass of Pernod

chicken stock

2 handfuls of butter beans, soaked overnight and then simmered thoroughly in clean water with a head of garlic, until they are soft, swollen pillows of joy (very important, as we know what happens to undercooked beans—nothing!)

sea salt and black pepper

Green Sauce

Rinse the brined ox tongue and soak it for a couple of hours in fresh water. Put it in a pan with the stock vegetables, bring to the boil and simmer for 3 hours. Check with a knife; you want a thoroughly giving tongue. Peel it while still warm, then allow to cool.

We are almost ready to construct our soup . . . In a pot big enough to receive all the ingredients, pour a healthy splash of olive oil and put on a not too furious heat. Sweat off the fennel, onions and garlic until giving but not collapsing, as they still have some cooking to do. Add the Pernod.

At this point, add enough chicken stock to cover everything, then add the butter beans. What you want is beans in the soup, not a thick, beany soup. Think of the Mysterons of Captain Scarlet and the circles of light that came with them—that’s the sort of bean ratio you are looking for in the soup. Let this simmer, allowing all the components to get to know each other.

Now slice as much tongue as you feel appropriate (keep the rest for sandwiches) into thin little angel’s wings. Slip these into the soup. After a moment’s more introductory simmering, check for seasoning and serve with a big bowl of Green Sauce to dollop, plus bread and wine.

A fine lunch.

CHICKEN BROTH AND WILD GARLIC

To serve six

This is a very soothing, clear broth, ideal if you are feeling a little frail.

EITHER

1 chicken (with the breast meat and the flesh from the legs removed and kept for the clarification) and 12 extra wings

OR

the liquor from a boiled chicken you have eaten previously, and 2 extra chicken breasts

2 peeled carrots

2 sticks of celery

2 peeled onions

2 leeks

1 whole head of garlic

a bundle of bay, parsley, thyme and rosemary

black peppercorns

sea salt

1 whole fresh chili (optional, but a good addition as if kept whole it will give a subliminal warmth, a mysterious wayhey)

a bundle of wild garlic (ramsons) leaves, roughly chopped (you can buy these in good greengrocers or alternatively pick them yourself—they are easy to spot due to their pungent smell)

If you’re using the chicken carcass, place the bones and wings in a big pan and cover with water. Bring to the boil, skim off the scum, and reduce to a simmer (a rolling boil churns the scum back into the broth).

If you’re using the liquor, start here.

Add your roughly chopped vegetables and herbs, seasoning, and the chili if using. Simmer for 2½ hours, skimming as necessary. Strain, allow to cool and then clarify.

Once you have your clear broth, reheat, meanwhile placing the garlic leaves in the bottom of the soup bowl or bowls. Pour the hot soup over these, give them a few moments to get to know each other, then eat.

NEW SEASON GARLIC AND BREAD SOUP

To serve six

For the early months of spring you can get fresh garlic before it is dried. It has a longer, greener stem, giving you the flavor of garlic with a youthful nature. A mouli is very useful for this recipe—in fact a mouli is useful all the time.

8 fresh whole garlic heads

1 quart chicken stock

sea salt and black pepper

a healthy handful of chunks, without crust, of yesterday’s—if not even the day before’s—white bread

Place the garlic in the stock and bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer until the garlic is cooked soft—about 40 minutes. Then pass the garlic through the mouli (if you have no mouli, press it through a sieve). Mix the garlic pulp back into the stock and season to taste.

Reheat and throw in the bread a couple of minutes before serving, so it has just long enough to sup up the soup, but not fall apart.

NETTLE AND SNAIL SOUP

To serve six

This should be made with spring nettles, as by July they tend to take on a laxative quality. Probably not what you want from a soup.

4 floury potatoes, peeled and chopped into chunks

4 leeks, cleaned and sliced

2 onions, peeled and sliced

4 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped

extra-virgin olive oil

1½ quarts light chicken stock

a good shopping bag full of nettles

SNAILS

24 fresh English snails, picked by your fair hands (you will need to put them in a bucket and let them poo all their poo out for a few days before cooking; then blanch in boiling salt water, pull them out of their shells and cook in a court-bouillon—that is, water with plenty of white wine and flavorsome herbs—until tender)

12 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped

a big knob of butter

sea salt and black pepper

In a saucepan sweat off all your chopped vegetables and garlic in olive oil, not browning them. This moment is important, as the more you can cook the vegetables at this point, the better the flavor of the soup. When the potatoes are cooked, add the stock. Let this all simmer, familiarizing the elements.

While still simmering away on the heat, add the nettles. Allow them to blanch for a moment—not long enough to lose their vivid green—then take off the heat and liquidize the lot.

At this point it might have a certain rustic, fibrous nature. Do not worry—you now need to pass the soup through a fine sieve twice, as eradicating any fibre somehow spiritually defeats the nettles by removing any fear of a tingle or a sting. You now hopefully have a green, silky soup.

Address your snails: pop the chopped garlic and butter into a heated frying pan. Allow for a little sizzle, then add the snails. Roll them around until piping hot, then season with salt and pepper.

Bowl up the nettle soup and spoon in 4 snails per person, which should stay on the top, sitting in a buttery, garlicky puddle.

POTATO AND FATBACK SOUP

To serve six

The ultimate soothing yet steadying soup; if feeling a little liverish, or generally frail, this should sort you out.

12 floury potatoes (this is important, as we are aiming at liquid silk, not wallpaper paste), peeled and chopped

6 leeks, cleaned and chopped

5 onions, peeled and chopped

10 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped

extra-virgin olive oil

1 quart light chicken stock

1 quart milk

sea salt and black pepper

TOPPING

4¼ ounces salted fatback (as with the wet walnuts, but cut into baked-bean-sized chunks)

OR

6 healthy slices of fresh foie gras

As with the previous recipe, sweat off all the chopped vegetables and garlic in a pan with the oil. Again I cannot stress enough how much more improved the flavor of the soup will be the longer you can extend this moment. The perfect result would be the potatoes completely cooked (leaving no glimmer of the bitterness of raw potato).

Add the stock and milk and simmer away until all the vegetables have given up any sign of resistance. Put through a fine sieve. Check for seasoning.

Now you have various options; eat the soup as is, which might seem a bit dour. Or, in a frying pan, render your small chunks of salted fatback on not too high a heat, so that you end up with crispy nuduals of salty pork fat to top off the soup. But our possibilities do not end there. You could instead shear off a generous slice of fresh foie gras per bowl of soup, pop on top of the hot soup and give it a few minutes to do a little melting, then eat.

LEEK, POTATO AND OYSTER SOUP

To serve six

You will need a blender for this recipe, as part of the joy of the dish is the smooth velvety soup within which lurks the oyster.

7 tablespoons unsalted butter

9 good leeks, minimally trimmed, keeping all the green, washed and sliced

1 onion, peeled and sliced

5 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped

4 potatoes, peeled and chopped

2 quarts light fish or chicken stock

sea salt and black pepper

12 medium Pacific oysters—it is best you shuck these yourself, as you want to catch every last drop of oyster juice in a bowl

In a pan large enough to take all the ingredients, melt the butter and sweat your leeks, onion and garlic, avoiding any browning. When these are giving, add the potato and cook amongst the leek mixture for 8 minutes, again avoiding browning. Then add the stock and bring to a gentle boil.

When the potato is cooked, season with salt and pepper. Now purée the soup in the blender and return it to a clean pan on the heat. Just before eating add the oyster liquor to the soup and place two oysters in each soup bowl. Pour the hot soup over the oysters and eat.

ONION SOUP AND BONE MARROW TOAST

To serve eight

This is the sort of thing Victorians would recommend for a sickly child to make them grow big and strong. It’s delicious too.

duck fat or unsalted butter

4¼ to 4½ pounds onions, peeled, cut in half and sliced

3 cups good cider

1½ pounds good veal stock (or if by chance you have some, duck stock)

2 to 2¼ pounds middle veal marrowbones

8 slices of white bread

extra-virgin olive oil

sea salt and black pepper

a handful of chopped curly parsley

In a pan large enough to take the other ingredients, melt the duck fat or butter and cook your onions. This time we want them to achieve a soft, sweet brownness (no burning—this is not a process you should rush; it will take up to 1 hour). Once achieved, add the cider and stock, bring to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes. While this is happening, roast your marrowbones in a hot oven until the marrow is loose, not flowing out of the bones. Sprinkle the bread with olive oil and toast in the oven. Season the soup to taste.

When the bones are ready, hold them with a tea towel, scoop out their delicious marrow and spread it on the crispy toast. Sprinkle with coarse sea salt. Serve the soup in deep soup bowls and top with the bone marrow toast. Finish off with a healthy topping of parsley, dropped in the dump-truck style (rather than sprinkled) onto the floating toast. Now eat.

COCK-A-LEEKIE

To serve eight

We made a version of this recently at St. John, and it was so surprising and good that even though it is an old classic I thought I should include this version. I hope that no one will take offense if it seems to break with hundreds of years of cock-a-leekie culture. This is more than a soup; in fact, it would happily pass as a meal in itself.

BRISKET

2 to 2¼ pounds brined beef brisket for 10–12 days, or salted beef brisket from the butcher

2 onions, peeled and chopped

2 carrots, peeled

2 leeks, cleaned and chopped

2 bay leaves

10 black peppercorns

a bundle of thyme and parsley

CHICKEN

1 free-range chicken or capon if available (slit the skin where the legs meet the body)

2 peeled onions

2 clean leeks

2 stalks of celery

2 bay leaves

10 black peppercorns

a bundle of thyme

parsley

2 sprigs of rosemary

FINISHING

5 leeks, cleaned and sliced across

the smallest dash of duck fat or extra-virgin olive oil

24 prunes with their stones in (preferably Agen prunes, if you can find them)

BRISKET

Place the brisket and its accompanying vegetables and herbs in a pan and cover with fresh water. Bring to the boil, then straight away reduce to a very gentle simmer, skimming constantly. This should take about 2½ hours to cook, but always check with a knife how giving the meat is. Allow the beef to cool in the broth.

CHICKEN

Place the chicken in a pan with its team of vegetables and herbs, bring to a boil, then place a lid on the pan and remove from the heat. Allow to cool in the stock. This will make for a moist chicken, as it is to be cooked again.

Remove beef and chicken from their stocks and cut into pieces, not too small but just so it’s possible to eat them with a spoon. Strain both stocks, then add the beef stock to the chicken stock to taste. (Remember, it will be quite salty, so be cautious—it may not take much. A slight salt undertone is a good thing, though, as it plays very well with the sweet prunes we shall add at the end.)

If your combined stock is cloudy or you are anxious about its aesthetic nature, clarify.

FINISHING

Now, in a pan large enough to construct your soup, sweat your sliced leeks in the duck fat or olive oil for about 8 minutes, so as to bring out their sweet leeky nature, but not to lose their crunch. Pour on the stock. Add the chopped chicken and beef, bring to a gentle simmer and let the meat heat through thoroughly. Three minutes before serving add the prunes, just giving them time to puff up.

Serve in big bowls with much bread to hand.

SALADS

(Be firm but fair with salads)

GRILLED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE, RED ONION AND OLIVES

SNAILS AND OAK LEAF LETTUCE

DECONSTRUCTED PICCALILLI

CUCUMBER, MUSTARD AND DILL

MUSSELS, CUCUMBER AND DILL

PEA AND SHEEP’S MILK CHEESE SALAD

BACON, EGG AND BEAN SALAD

BREAD & WINE SALAD

HOW TO EAT RADISHES AT THEIR PEAK

KOHLRABI

BROAD BEAN AND TROTTER SALAD

WHITE CABBAGE AND SHRIMP

WARM SALT COD, LITTLE GEM AND TOMATO SALAD

SKATE, CHICORY AND ANCHOVY

ANCHOVY, LITTLE GEM AND TOMATO SALAD

OX TONGUE AND BREAD

BUTTER BEAN, LEEK AND CAULIFLOWER SALAD

BEET, RED ONION, RED CABBAGE, CRÈME FRAÎCHE AND CHERVIL

GRILLED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE, RED ONION AND OLIVES

To serve four

An autumnal, textural salad.

6 Jerusalem artichokes, washed but not peeled

3 red onions

extra-virgin olive oil

a splash of balsamic vinegar

sea salt and black pepper

2 bunches of watercress, woody stalks trimmed off

a handful of small Alberquina olives or a firm green olive, e.g. Luque Royals, so they give a gnya to