Lonely Planet Rome

Rome

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Rome

Rome’s Top Experiences

What’s New

Need to Know

First Time Rome

Perfect Days

Month by Month

Under the Radar

With Kids

Like a Local

For Free

Dining Out

Bar Open

Showtime

Treasure Hunt

Museums, Galleries & Historic Sites

Explore Rome

Ancient Rome

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Shopping

Centro Storico

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Vatican City, Borgo & Prati

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Trastevere & Gianicolo

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

San Giovanni & Testaccio

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Villa Borghese & Northern Rome

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Southern Rome

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Day Trips from Rome

Ostia Antica

Tivoli

Castelli Romani

Cerveteri

Orvieto

Sleeping

Understand Rome

History

The Arts

Architecture

The Roman Way of Life

Survival Guide

Transport

Arriving in Rome

Leonardo da Vinci Airport

Ciampino Airport

Termini Train Station

Tibertina Bus Station

Civitavecchia Port

Getting Around rome

Metro

Bus

Tram

Taxi

Train

Bicycle

Car & Motorcycle

Tours

Guided Tours

Bicycle & Scooter

Bus

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Customs Regulations

Electricity

Emergency

Health

Internet Access

Legal Matters

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Medical Services

Money

Opening Hours

Public Holidays

Responsible Travel

Safe Travel

Taxes & Refunds

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas & Passes

Women Travellers

Language

Rome Maps

Ancient Rome

Centro Storico North

Centro Storico South

Tridente, Trevi & Quirinale

Vatican City, Borgo & Prati

Testaccio

San Giovanni

Trastevere & Gianicolo

San Lorenzo

Monti & Esquilino

Villa Borghese & Northern Rome

Southern Rome

Table of Contents

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

COVID-19

We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after the COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

Welcome to Rome

I first fell for Rome on a glorious blue-sky spring morning. I remember being enthralled by the dreamy beauty of its piazzas and baroque palaces, the vivid colours, the umbrella pines that tower over its iconic ruins. Even now, after more than two decades in the city, I’m still in awe of the place. Not just for the sense of drama that pervades its historic streets but also for the small things: the smell of fresh coffee wafting out of cafes, the old-school trattorias, the gruff humour of the Romans. There’s simply nowhere I’d rather be.

Trastevere | PHOTO BETO / GETTY IMAGES ©

By Duncan Garwood, Writer

For more about Our Writers

Rome’s Top Experiences

1MONUMENTAL RUINS

Rome’s tumultuous past is writ large on its historic streets. From iconic monuments such as the Colosseum and Pantheon to the tumbledown remnants of the forums, the city’s muscular ruins recall its ancient heyday as caput mundi (world capital). More than two thousand years on and it remains an exhilarating experience to explore these sites and retrace the footsteps of Rome’s legendary heroes.

ELENOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Roman Forum

Give your imagination a workout as you explore the ruins of the Roman Forum (pictured), once a busy district of temples, basilicas, shops and streets. Above, the remnants of the vast imperial palace lie strewn across the Palatino hill.

S.BORISOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Colosseum

No photograph can prepare you for the thrill of seeing the Colosseum (pictured) for the first time. More than any other monument, this fearsome amphitheatre encapsulates the blood and thunder of ancient Rome, and it’s still an electrifying sight today.

RUHEY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Pantheon

The best preserved of Rome’s ancient monuments, the Pantheon (pictured) is a truly extraordinary building. Its columned portico and thick-set walls impress, but it’s only when you get inside and see the dome soaring above you that you get the full measure of the place.

TTSTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Rome’s Top Experiences

2A VATICAN PILGRIMAGE

You don’t have to be a believer to be bowled over by the Vatican. Centred on St Peter’s Basilica, the tiny sovereign state is home to an unbelievable treasure trove of artistic and architectural riches. These include several of Michelangelo’s most revered masterpieces, frescoes by the Renaissance artist Raphael, and a stunning series of ancient statuary in the Vatican Museums.

Vatican Museums

Michelangelo’s kaleidoscopic Sistine Chapel frescoes provide the grand finale to the Vatican Museums, Rome’s largest and most sumptuous art museum. Housed in the lavishly appointed Palazzo Apostolico Vaticano, the complex showcases the Vatican’s immense collection of classical sculptures, Old Masters, frescoes, modern art and much more besides.

KIEV.VICTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

St Peter’s Basilica

Even in a city of churches, St Peter’s stands head and shoulders above the rest. Everything about it is astonishing: the sweeping piazza, grandiose facade, opulent interior and, crowning it all, Michelangelo’s dome, an architectural masterpiece.

GRAFALEX/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Vatican Gardens

To complete your visit to the Vatican take a tour of the Vatican Gardens. The pope’s private estate is a serene wonderland of grottoes, fountains, monuments and fortifications.

ANASTASIA PRISUNKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Rome’s Top Experiences

3DIVINE ART

Few cities can rival Rome’s artistic heritage. Throughout history, the city has attracted the top artists of the day and inspired them to push the boundaries of creative achievement. The result is a city awash with masterworks by the titans of European art – sculptures by Michelangelo, paintings by Caravaggio, frescoes by Raphael, fountains by Bernini.

EVGENII IAROSHEVSKII/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Museo e Galleria Borghese

The greatest gallery you’ve never heard of, the Museo e Galleria Borghese (pictured) houses some of Rome’s most spectacular artworks. Chief among them are a series of sensational sculptures by Bernini and a celebrated statue by Canova.

Capitoline Museums

On one of Rome’s most beautiful squares, the Capitoline Museums features amazing classical statuary, including Rome’s iconic Lupa Capitolina (Capitoline Wolf), and a gallery of paintings by big-name baroque artists.

Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Fabulous Roman frescoes and wall mosaics star at the Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, an oft-overlooked gem near Termini station.

Rome’s Top Experiences

4LIVING THE DOLCE VITA

A trip to Rome is as much about enjoying the dolce vita lifestyle as gorging on art and culture. Browsing chic designer boutiques, sipping cappuccinos at streetside cafes, people-watching on pretty piazzas – these are all quintessential city experiences. So do as the Romans do and take time to enjoy the simple pleasures of life.

Piazza Navona

With its ornamental fountains, showy church and baroque palazzi, Piazza Navona (pictured) is the elegant poster child of Rome’s great piazzas. Adding to the spectacle are its ringside cafes and ever-present street artists.

BELENOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Trevi Fountain

Join the crowds for your compulsory coin-throwing stop at the Trevi Fountain (pictured), Rome’s most celebrated water feature. Local lore holds that you’ll return to the city if you throw a coin into the water.

ANIBAL TREJO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Spanish Steps

Sashay down the Spanish Steps (pictured) en route to the designer boutiques and flagship fashion stores on Via dei Condotti, Rome’s premier shopping strip.

BELENOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Rome’s Top Experiences

5GOING UNDERGROUND

Hidden beneath Rome’s spectacular cityscape is a thrilling underworld of pagan temples, creepy catacombs and underground ruins. This subterranean wonderland grew over the centuries as successive rulers rebuilt the city, piling their new palaces and churches atop existing buildings. Nowadays, modern construction projects regularly unearth archaeological finds in the city’s fertile sottosuolo (underground).

Catacombs

Rome’s most famous catacombs (pictured) lie beneath Via Appia Antica in the city’s south. Built as burial grounds by the early Christians, they extend for kilometres and hold thousands of bodies.

VALERIOMEI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Domus Aurea

Go deep to discover the underground remains of the Domus Aurea (pictured), a colossal palace complex Nero built for himself.

TROTALO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Basilica di San Clemente

Beneath this medieval basilica (pictured) lies the city’s stratification: remains of an earlier basilica, a pagan temple and a 1st-century house.

PARIS JEFFERSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

Rome’s Top Experiences

6GREEN OASES

Rome’s parks and gardens provide welcome sanctuary from the city’s relentless noise and heat. Ranging from elegant, landscaped estates to hilltop hideaways and former hunting reserves, they vary in look and size. Some boast blistering museums and romantic views while others simply offer space and the peace to recharge your batteries.

Villa Borghese

Rome’s Central Park, Villa Borghese is the best known of the capital’s main parks. Much frequented by tourists and Romans alike, it features several superlative museums, leafy lanes, and heavenly views from the Pincio Hill.

VALERIOMEI/GETTY IMAGES ©

Giardino degli Aranci

For yet more panoramas, head to the Giardino degli Aranci (Parco Savello; pictured), a hilltop garden on the Aventino. Nearby, you can admire an altogether different view through the keyhole of the Villa del Priorato di Malta.

DIEGO FIORE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Orto Botanico

A top place to unwind, Rome’s 12-hectare botanic garden cloaks the steep slopes of the Gianicolo hill above Trastevere.

Rome’s Top Experiences

7ROMAN FEASTING

Eating out is one of the great pleasures of a trip to Rome and the combination of romantic alfresco settings and fantastic food is a guarantee of good times. For contemporary fine dining, there are any number of refined restaurants, but for a truly Roman experience try one of the capital’s convivial trattorias or boisterous pizzerias.

Cucina Romana

For a taste of authentic nose-to-tail Roman cuisine, head to Testaccio. The area’s trattorias are renowned for their traditional vibe and classic old-school cooking.

ACKAB PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

An Evening in Trastevere

The Instagram-friendly Trastevere neighbourhood (pictured) is a top spot for a night’s dining. Its medieval lanes and animated piazzas harbour hundreds of bars, cafes, trattorias and restaurants catering to Romans and besotted visitors.

PHOTO BETO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Street Food

Street food fans can fill up on world-beating pizza al taglio (sliced pizza) – try Bonci Pizzarium – as well as gelato, supplì (fried rice balls) and trapizzini (stuffed cones of pizza-like dough).

Claudio Torcè, of gelato house Torcè | JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©

Rome’s Top Experiences

8EPIC VIEWS

Rome’s historic monuments and hills provide stunning vantage points for enjoying views over the city’s rooftops, domes and spires. Some perches require serious legwork to get to; others can be accessed by lift. But however you reach them, you’ll be rewarded with panoramas that have been entrancing visitors for centuries.

Vittoriano

Not recommended for vertigo sufferers, the summit of the Vittoriano towers over the rest of Rome, providing sweeping 360-degree views of the city and distant hills.

Gianicolo

A short but steep walk up from Trastevere, the Gianicolo hill commands classic views over Rome’s skyline (pictured). Look out for the Pantheon’s concrete dome and Michelangelo’s cupola atop St Peter’s Basilica.

NIKOLAY ANTONOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Piazza del Quirinale

The piazza fronting Italy’s Presidential palace sets a suitably grand setting for mellowing out to romantic sunset views.

What’s New

After more than a year of COVID lockdowns and semi-deserted streets, Rome is back in business. In recent months, the ever-resilient Romans have voted for a new mayor, applauded a number of restorations at historic monuments and welcomed several new street murals.

Green Pass

A digital Green Pass has become the latest must-have in Rome. The COVID vaccination certificate is now required for a number of activities, including eating indoors in restaurants and visiting museums, monuments, and cultural sites. Visits to most sites must also now be pre-booked online.

Electric Scooters

Electric scooters have invaded Rome’s streets. Scooter sharing schemes were introduced in mid-2020 and have proved very popular, particularly among the city’s young.

Not all Romans are fans, though, and critics have highlighted the illegal carrying of passengers, speeding on sidewalks, and badly parked scooters blocking pavements.

Ancient Openings

Several high-profile monuments have opened their doors to visitors after major restoration projects. At the Colosseum, large swathes of the hypogeum (underground backstage area) were made accessible to the public after extensive renovations. These came as the second phase in a three-part project at the amphitheatre. The final part, expected to be completed in 2024, will see the construction of a new visitor centre.

Elsewhere, the Mausoleo di Augusto opened to visitors for the first time in decades, and the Casa delle Vestali reopened on the Roman Forum.

Near Piazza Navona, restoration continues at the Chiesa di Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza after the Borromini-designed church suffered damage in a 2016 earthquake.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN PARIS

Duncan Garwood, Lonely Planet writer

Italy was hit hard by COVID-19. Rome shut down in March 2020 when Italy became the first European country to impose a nationwide lockdown. The rules were strict and an eerie silence descended on the city. To keep morale high Romans sang from the rooftops, bellowing out the national anthem and Bella ciao from their balconies. More than a year on and it’s not quite business as usual – some COVID restrictions remain – but the streets are busy, shops and offices are open, and the gossips are back in the bars. With coffee in hand, they debate hot topics such as the city’s perennial struggle with waste collection and the state of degrado (degradation) afflicting many streets and parks. So far, so usual. What’s not so usual is the lack of tourists. Tourism was thriving before the pandemic when the talk was of ever-increasing numbers, even overtourism. Now, the challenge is to find a way of encouraging visitors back to the city in a way that’s both sustainable and environmentally viable.

Boars in the ’Burbs

Wild boars have become a political hot potato in Rome. Sightings of boars waddling around the suburbs have become increasingly common in recent times, prompting a bitter blame game between mayor Raggi and her critics.

This came to a head in the run-up to the 2021 mayoral election when Raggi sued Lazio’s regional government for failing to control the boar population in the surrounding countryside.

On social media, wits called for the installation of piste cinghiabili (wild boar lanes) alongside piste ciclabili (cycle lanes).

Caravaggio’s Coins

September 2021 marked the 450th anniversary of the birth of Caravaggio, the great baroque painter whose masterpieces adorn several of Rome’s museums and galleries.

To mark the occasion, the Vatican issued a commemorative €2 coin depicting a detail from the artist’s Ragazzo col Canestro di Frutta (Boy with a Basket of Fruit), the original of which hangs in the Museo e Galleria Borghese.

Street Art

Three of Rome’s favourite actors have been immortalised in a trio of giant murals by street artist Lucamaleonte.

Alberto Sordi is depicted as one of his best-loved characters, the Marquis of Grillo, in the Garbatella neighbourhood. To the northeast, the much-loved Anna Magnani looks down on the Tiburtino III district, while in the northern Tufello neighbourhood, Gigi Proietti gazes down on his old stomping ground.

New Mayor

It’s all change at City Hall after Virginia Raggi of the Five Star Movement was voted out of office in the 2021 mayoral elections.

Raggi made headlines when she became Rome’s first woman mayor in 2016 but during her time in office she never managed to win over her vociferous critics who accused her of failing to clean up the city’s streets and improve public transport.

In late 2021, her successor was decided: centre-left candidate Roberto Gualtieri beat out his right-wing opponent, Enrico Michetti in a runoff.

LISTEN, WATCH & FOLLOW

For inspiration and up-to-date news: www.lonelyplanet.com/rome

Wanted in Rome (www.wantedinrome.com) News, listings and ideas from in-the-know expat magazine.

Katie Parla (www.katieparla.com) Roman cuisine and all the latest on the city’s food scene.

Rachel Eats (www.racheleats.wordpress.com) Tales from the Roman kitchen of British food writer Rachel Roddy.

Romeing (www.romeing.it) For features, whats-on and insights into the city’s cultural scene.

FAST FACTS

Food trend Farmer’s markets

Obelisks Rome boasts more ancient obelisks than any other city; the first were brought from Egypt by the emperor Augustus.

Euros The celebrations that greeted Italy’s victory in the Euro 2020 football championship were so loud they were picked up by seismologists monitoring for earthquake activity.

Pop 2.8 million

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

Euro (€)

Language

Italian

Visas

Not required by EU citizens. Not required by nationals of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, USA and UK for stays of up to 90 days.

Money

ATMs are widespread. Major credit cards are widely accepted but some smaller shops, trattorias and hotels might not take them.

Mobile Phones

Local SIM cards can be used in European, Australian and unlocked US phones. Other phones must be set to roaming.

Time

Western European Time (GMT/UTC plus one hour)

Tourist Information

There are tourist information points at Fiumicino (Fiumicino Airport; International Arrivals, Terminal 3; icon-hoursgif h8am-8.45pm) and Ciampino (Arrivals Hall; icon-hoursgif h8.30am-6pm) airports, as well as locations across the city. Each can provide city maps and sell the Roma Pass.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than €110

A Dorm bed: €15–45

A Double room in a budget hotel: €60–130

A Pizza plus beer: €15

Midrange: €110–250

A Double room in a hotel: €100–200

A Local restaurant meal: €25–45

A Admission to Vatican Museums: €17

A Roma Pass, a 72-hour card covering museum entry and public transport: €38.50

Top end: More than €250

A Double room in a four- or five-star hotel: €200 plus

A Top restaurant dinner: €45–160

A Opera ticket: €17–150

A City-centre taxi ride: €10–15

A Auditorium concert tickets: €20–90

Advance Planning

Two months before Book high-season accommodation.

One month before Check for concerts at www.auditorium.com. Book tickets for Colosseum tours and visits to the Museo e Galleria Borghese and Palazzo Farnese.

One to two weeks before Reserve tickets for the pope’s weekly audience at St Peter’s.

Few days before Reserve tables at top restaurants. Book Vatican Museums and Colosseum tickets (advisable to avoid queues).

Useful Websites

060608 (www.060608.it) For practical details on sights, transport and upcoming events.

Coopculture (www.coopculture.it) Ticket booking for Rome’s monuments.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/rome) Destination information, hotel reviews, traveller forum and more.

Romeing (www.romeing.it) English-language site with events listings, thematic sections and features.

Turismo Roma (www.turismoroma.it) Rome’s official tourist website.

Vatican Museums (www.museivaticani.va) Book tickets and tours to the museums and Vatican sites.

WHEN TO GO

Spring (April to June) and autumn (September and October) are the best times – the weather’s good and there are many festivals and outdoor events on.

Arriving in Rome

Leonardo da Vinci (Fiumicino) Airport Leonardo Express trains to Stazione Termini 6.08am to 11.23pm, €14; slower FL1 trains to Trastevere, Ostiense and Tiburtina stations 5.57am to 10.42pm, €8; buses to Stazione Termini 6.05am to 12.40am, €6 to €6.90; airport-to-hotel shuttles from €22 per person; taxis €50 (fixed fare to within the Aurelian walls).

Ciampino Airport Buses to Stazione Termini 4am to 12.15am, €6; airport-to-hotel shuttles €25 per person; taxis €30 (fixed fare to within the Aurelian walls).

Stazione Termini Airport buses and trains, and international trains, arrive at Stazione Termini. From there, continue by bus, metro or taxi.

For much more on Arrival

Getting Around

Public transport includes buses, trams, metro and a suburban train network. The main hub is Stazione Termini. Tickets, which come in various forms, are valid for all forms of transport. Children under 10 years travel free.

A Metro The metro is quicker than surface transport, but the network is limited. Two main lines serve the centre, A (orange) and B (blue), crossing at Stazione Termini. Trains run between 5.30am and 11.30pm (to 1.30am on Fridays and Saturdays).

A Buses Most routes pass through Stazione Termini. Buses run from approximately 5.30am until midnight, with limited services throughout the night.

A Foot Walking is the best way of getting around the centro storico (historic centre).

For much more on Getting Around

Sleeping

Rome is expensive and busy; book ahead to secure the best deal. Accommodation ranges from palatial five-star hotels to hostels, B&Bs, pensioni (guesthouses) and private rooms; there’s also a growing number of boutique suite and apartment hotels. Hostels are the cheapest option, and many offer both dorm beds and private rooms; most pensioni are in the budget range, too. B&Bs and hotels cover every style and price range.

Useful Websites

A Lonely Planet ( www.lonelyplanet.com/italy/rome ) Author-reviewed accommodation options.

A Cross Pollinate ( icon-phonegif %06 9936 9799; www.cross-pollinate.com) Personally vetted rooms and apartments by the team behind Rome’s Beehive hostel.

A Bed & Breakfast Italia ( icon-phonegif %06 8837 3407; www.bbitalia.it) Italian B&B network listing many Rome options.

For much more on Sleeping

First Time Rome

For more information, see Survival Guide

Checklist

A Check your passport is valid.

A Organise travel insurance.

A Inform your credit-/debit-card company of your travels.

A Check that you can use your mobile phone.

A Book accommodation and tickets for sights like the Vatican Museums, Colosseum and Museo e Galleria Borghese.

A If coming at Christmas or Easter, check details of services at St Peter’s Basilica and other churches.

What to Pack

A Trainers or comfy walking shoes – cobbled streets can be murder on the feet.

A Smart-casual evening clothes – Romans dress up to go out.

A Purse with strap – petty theft can be a problem.

A Water bottle – refill it at drinking fountains.

A Electrical adaptor and phone charger.

Top Tips for Your Trip

A Don’t try to cover everything. Focus on a few sights/areas and leave the rest for next time.

A Rome’s historic centre is made for leisurely strolling, so allow time for mapless wandering. Half the fun of Rome is discovering what’s around the corner.

A When choosing where to eat, never judge a place by its appearance. You’ll often have your most enjoyable meals in modest-looking trattorias.

A Expect queues at major sights such as the Colosseum, St Peter’s Basilica and Vatican Museums. Pre-booking tickets costs extra but reduces queuing time.

A To deal with summer heat, adjust to the local rhythm: go out in the morning, rest after lunch and head out again in the late afternoon.

A August is Italy’s main holiday period. Romans desert the city in droves, and many shops and eateries close for a week or two around 15 August.

What to Wear

Appearances matter in Rome. That said, you’ll need to dress comfortably because you’ll be walking a lot. Suitable wear for men is generally trousers (pants) and shirts or polo shirts, and for women, skirts, trousers or dresses. Shorts, T-shirts and sandals are fine in summer, but bear in mind that strict dress codes are enforced at St Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museums. For evening wear, smart casual is the norm. A light sweater or waterproof jacket is useful in spring and autumn.

Be Forewarned

A Rome is a safe city, but petty theft can be a problem and pickpockets are active in touristy areas, around Stazione Termini and on crowded public transport – the 64 Vatican bus is notorious.

A In case of theft or loss, always report the incident to the police within 24 hours and ask for a statement.

Money

ATMs (bancomat in Italian) are widespread. Major credit cards are widely accepted but some smaller shops, trattorias and hotels might not take them.

Save money by drinking coffee standing at the bar rather than taking a seat.

State-run museums are free every first Sunday of the month between October and March. The Vatican Museums are gratis every last Sunday of the month.

For more information, see here.

Taxes & Refunds

A value-added tax known as IVA (Imposta sul Valore Aggiunta) is included in the price of most goods and services. It currently ranges from 4% to 25%. Tax-free shopping is available at some shops.

All overnight stays in the city are subject to an accommodation tax – the exact sum depends on the length of your sojourn and type of accommodation.

Tipping

Romans are not big tippers:

Taxis Optional, but most people round up to the nearest euro.

Restaurants Service (servizio) is generally included; if it’s not, a euro or two is fine in pizzerias and trattorias, no more than five to 10% in smart restaurants.

Bars Not necessary, although many people leave small change if drinking at the bar.

Hotels Tip porters about €5 at A-list hotels.

Language

You can get by with English, but you’ll improve your experience no end by mastering a few basic words and expressions in Italian. This is particularly true in restaurants where menus don’t always have English translations and some places rely on waiters to explain what’s on. For more on language, see here.

Etiquette

Italy is quite a formal society, and the niceties of social interaction are observed.

Greetings Greet people in bars, shops, trattorias etc with a buongiorno (good morning) or buonasera (good evening).

Asking for help Say mi scusi (excuse me) to attract attention; use permesso (permission) to pass someone in a crowded space.

Dress Cover up at churches and go smart when eating out.

Roma Pass

This useful pass is available online, from participating museums, tourist info points and metro ticket offices.

72 hours (€38.50) Provides free admission to two museums or sites, unlimited transport and reduced admission to extra sites.

48 hours (€28) Gives free admission to one museum or site, then as per the 72-hour pass.

Perfect Days

Day One

Ancient Rome

icon-icon-morning MStart the day at the Colosseum, Rome’s huge gladiatorial arena – try to get there early to avoid the queues. Then head over to the Palatino to poke around crumbling ruins and admire sweeping views. From the Palatino, follow on to the Roman Forum, an evocative area of tumbledown temples, sprouting columns and ruined basilicas.

5

Lunch Sample regional specialities at Terre e Domus.

Ancient Rome

icon-icon-afternoon R After lunch, climb up to Piazza del Campidoglio and the Capitoline Museums, where you’ll find some sensational ancient sculpture. Done there, enjoy great views from the Vittoriano before pushing on to the centro storico (historic centre) to explore its labyrinthine lanes and headline sights such as the Pantheon and Piazza Navona.

5

Dinner Dine on modern Italian cuisine at La Ciambella.

Centro Storico

icon-icon-evening N In the evening get a taste of dolce vita bar life. Depending on what you’re after, you could chat over coffee at Caffè Sant’Eustachio, or sip brilliantly executed G&Ts at the Gin Corner.

Top Itineraries

Day Two

Vatican City, Borgo & Prati

icon-icon-morning MOn day two, hit the Vatican. First up are the Vatican Museums. Once you’ve blown your mind on the Sistine Chapel and the myriad other masterpieces, complete your tour at St Peter’s Basilica. If you have the energy, climb its Michelangelo-designed dome for fantastic views over St Peter’s Square and the nearby Castel Sant’Angelo. But if the queues are bad or you’re suffering art overload, stop first for an early lunch.

5

Lunch Savour Rome’s best sliced pizza at Bonci Pizzarium.

Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale

icon-icon-afternoon R Recharged, jump on the metro and head over the river to check out Piazza di Spagna and the Spanish Steps, then push on to the Trevi Fountain where tradition dictates you throw a coin into the water to ensure you’ll return to Rome. Next, head up the hill to catch the sunset on Piazza del Quirinale in front of the presidential palace, Palazzo del Quirinale.

5

Dinner Dine on creative cuisine at hip Pianostrada.

Centro Storico

icon-icon-evening N Spend the evening in the buzzing area around Campo de’ Fiori. Try Roscioli Caffè for an aperitif, Open Baladin for craft beers or Barnum Cafe for chilled cocktails.

St Peter’s Basilica | RUDYBALASKO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Itineraries

Day Three

Villa Borghese & Northern Rome

icon-icon-morning MDay three starts with a trip to the Museo e Galleria Borghese – remember to book tickets – to marvel at amazing baroque sculpture and Renaissance masterpieces. Afterwards, wander through Villa Borghese to the Pincio Hill Gardens for some romantic rooftop views.

5

Lunch Fill up on the vegetarian buffet at Il Margutta.

Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale

icon-icon-afternoon R In the afternoon, check out arty Via Margutta before heading over to Piazza del Popolo where you can catch a couple of Caravaggios at the Basilica di Santa Maria del Popolo. Next, dedicate some time to browsing the flagship stores and designer boutiques in the upscale streets off Via del Corso.

5

Dinner Book at Dal Cavalier Gino for an authentic trattoria experience.

Trastevere & Gianicolo

icon-icon-evening N Over the river, the picture-perfect Trastevere neighbourhood bursts with life in the evening as locals and tourists flock to its many cafes and bars. Hotspots include Terra Satis, a laid-back neighbourhood wine bar, and mellow Niji Roma, a stylish spot for cool cocktails.

Top Itineraries

Day Four

Southern Rome

icon-icon-morning MOn day four it’s time to venture out to Via Appia Antica. The main attractions here are the catacombs, and it’s a wonderfully creepy sensation to duck down into these sinister pitch-black tunnels. Back above ground, you’ll find the remains of an ancient racetrack at the nearby Villa di Massenzio.

5

Lunch Eat on the Appia, at Qui Nun se More Mai.

Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo

icon-icon-afternoon R Once you’ve eaten, head north to Stazione Termini and the nearby Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, a superb museum full of classical sculpture and stunning mosaics. Then, drop by the monumental Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, famous for its mosaics, and the Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli, home to Michelangelo’s muscular Moses sculpture. Finish up with some shopping in the fashionable boutiques of the Monti district.

5

Dinner Enjoy great wine over dinner at La Barrique.

Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo

icon-icon-evening N Stay put in Monti, where there’s plenty of late-night action. Pick a wine bar or cafe from which to see out the day. Ai Tre Scalini is an ever-popular hang-out.

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

Natale di Roma, April

Estate Romana, June to September

Lungo il Tevere, June to September

Festa de’ Noantri, July

La Festa di Roma, December

January

As New Year celebrations fade, the winter cold digs in. It’s a quiet time of year, but the winter sales are a welcome diversion.

7 Shopping Sales

Running from early January, typically the first Saturday of the month, to mid-February, the winter fashion sales offer savings of between 20% and 50%.

February

Rome’s winter quiet is disrupted by weekend invasions by cheerful rugby fans in town for the annual Six Nations rugby tournament.

z Carnevale

Roman children traditionally don fancy dress and throw coriandoli (coloured confetti) over each other during carnival. Costumed parades are also sometimes held around Piazza del Popolo, Via del Corso, Piazza di Spagna and Piazza Navona.

April

April is a great month in Rome, with lovely, sunny weather, fervent Easter celebrations, azaleas on the Spanish Steps and Rome’s birthday festivities. Expect high-season prices.

0 Easter

Easter is a big deal in Rome. On Good Friday the pope leads a candlelit procession around the Colosseum, and there are other smaller parades around the city. At noon on Easter Sunday the pope blesses the crowds in St Peter’s Square.

1 Mostra delle Azalee

From early April to mid-May, the Spanish Steps are decorated with hundreds of vases of blooming, brightly coloured azaleas).

z Natale di Roma

Rome celebrates its birthday on 21 April with music, processions, historical re-creations and fireworks. Action is centred on Via dei Fori Imperiali and the Circo Massimo.

May

May is a busy, high-season month. The weather’s perfect – usually warm enough to eat outside – and the city is looking gorgeous with blue skies and spring flowers.

3 Primo Maggio

Thousands of fans troop to Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano for Rome’s free May Day rock concert. It’s a mostly Italian affair with big-name local performers, but you might catch the occasional foreign guest star.

June

Summer has arrived and with it hot weather and the Italian school holidays. The city’s festival season breaks into full stride with many outdoor events.

0 Festa dei Santi Pietro e Paolo

On 29 June Rome celebrates its two patron saints, Peter and Paul, with flower displays on St Peter’s Square and festivities near the Basilica di San Paolo Fuori le Mura.

3 Lungo il Tevere

Nightly crowds converge on the River Tiber for this popular summer-long event. Stalls, clubs, bars, restaurants, cinemas, even dance floors line the river bank as Rome’s nightlife goes al fresco.

3 Roma Incontra il Mondo

From late June to August, Villa Ada is transformed into a colourful multi-ethnic village for this popular annual event. There’s a laid-back party vibe and an excellent program of gigs ranging from reggae to jazz and world music.

3 Estate Romana

From June to September Rome’s big summer festival involves everything from concerts and dance performances to book fairs, puppet shows and late-night museum openings.

July

Hot summer temperatures make sightseeing a physical endeavour, but come the cool of evening, the city’s streets burst into life as locals come out to enjoy the summer festivities.

z Festa de’ Noantri

Trastevere celebrates its roots with a raucous street party in the last two weeks of the month. Events kick off with a religious procession and continue with much eating, drinking, dancing and praying.

August

Rome melts in the heat as locals flee the city for their summer holidays. Many businesses shut down around 15 August, but hoteliers offer discounts and there are loads of summer events to enjoy.

0 Festa della Madonna della Neve

Rose petals are showered on celebrants in the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore to commemorate a miraculous 4th-century snowfall.

September

Life returns to the city after the August torpor. The kids go back to school and locals return to work, but there’s still a relaxed summer vibe and the weather’s perfect. High-season rates apply.

3 Romaeuropa

Established international performers join emerging stars at Rome’s autumn festival of theatre, opera and dance. Events staged across town from mid-September to mid-November range from avant-garde dance to installations, multimedia shows and recitals.

October

Autumn is a good time to visit – the warm weather is holding, Romaeuropa ensures plenty of cultural action and, with the schools back, there are far fewer tourists around.

3 Festa del Cinema di Roma

At the Auditorium Parco della Musica in late October, Rome’s film festival rolls out the red carpet for Hollywood hot shots and bigwigs from Italian cinema.

December

The build-up to Christmas is a festive time – the Christmas lights go on, shopping takes on a new urgency and presepi (nativity scenes) appear across town, most spectacularly in St Peter’s Square.

0 Piazza Navona Christmas Fair

Rome’s showpiece baroque piazza becomes a festive market with stalls selling everything from stuffed toys to teeth-cracking torrone (nougat). Tradition dictates that the befana (witch) appears on Epiphany (6 January) to hand out sweets to children.

Under the Radar

Seeing Rome’s headline acts means crowds and the risk of overtourism, particularly in peak periods. To avoid the queues and discover another side of Rome, set your sights on the city’s lesser-known gems and neighbourhoods.

Alternative Neighbourhoods

Garbatella

Built in the 1920s and ’30s as a garden suburb for city workers, Garbatella is a colourful neighbourhood known for its eclectic architecture, lush courtyards and eye-catching street murals.

EUR

In Rome’s southern reaches, EUR is a world apart with its wide spaces and muscular modern architecture. A highlight is the Palazzo della Civiltà del Lavoro, a masterpiece of Italian rationalism known locally as the Square Colosseum.

Quartiere Coppedè

The pocket-size Coppedè district, designed in the 1920s and hidden away northeast of Villa Borghese, is a fairy-tale mishmash of turreted villas, towers, gargoyles, arches and graceful palm trees.

Sites Minus the Masses

Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia

This elegantly housed museum provides a fascinating introduction to Italy’s mysterious pre-Roman civilisation with its superb collection of Etruscan treasures.

Centrale Montemartini

Ancient sculptures sidle up to heavy industrial machinery at the Centrale Montemartini, a de-commissioned power station turned classical art museum in Ostiense.

Cimitero Acattolico per gli Stranieri

Overlooked by an ancient pyramid, Rome’s serene Protestant cemetery is a verdant oasis of peace in Testaccio. Look for the graves of poets John Keats and Percy Shelley.

Palazzo Spada

This ornate Mannerist palace near Campo de’ Fiori harbours one of Rome’s most famous architectural follies, the Prospettiva del Borromini (Borromini’s Perspective).

Crowd-Free Churches

Chiesa di Santo Stefano Rotondo

Few people make it to this secluded Celio church, but those who do rarely forget its chilling cycle of 16th-century frescoes depicted the appalling horrors suffered by many early Christian saints.

Basilica di Santa Prassede

From the outside this small, easy-to-miss basilica looks nothing special, but go inside and you’ll come face to face with some of Rome’s most dazzling Byzantine mosaics.

Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi a Ripa Grande

In a quiet corner of Trastevere, this seemingly unremarkable church is home to one of Rome’s great baroque masterpieces: Bernini’s sensual sculpture of Beata Ludovica Albertoni.

With Kids

Despite a reputation as a highbrow cultural destination, Rome has a lot to offer kids. Child-specific sights might be thin on the ground, but if you know where to go, there’s plenty to keep the little ’uns occupied and parents happy.

Trevi Fountain | TRAVNIKOVSTUDIO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

History for Kids

Colosseum

Everyone wants to see the Colosseum and it doesn’t disappoint, especially if accompanied by tales of bloodthirsty gladiators and hungry lions. For maximum effect prep your kids beforehand with a Rome-based film.

Terme di Caracalla

Virtual reality brings the Terme di Caracalla back to life courtesy of headsets that recreate the massive baths as they looked in their heyday.

Le Domus Romane di Palazzo Valentini

Parents and older kids will enjoy the multimedia tour of Roman excavations beneath Palazzo Valentini.

Museums for Kids

Explora

Near Piazza del Popolo, Explora – Museo dei Bambini di Roma is a hands-on museum for kids under 12, with interactive displays and a free play park.

Museo delle Cere

Go face to face with popes, rock stars and footy players at Rome’s cheesy wax museum, the Museo delle Cere ( map, D8; icon-phonegif %06 679 64 82; www.museodellecereroma.com; Piazza dei Santissimi Apostoli 68a; adult/reduced €10/8; icon-hoursgif h9am-9pm summer, to 8pm winter; icon-familygif c).

Museo delle Mura

Walk along a stretch of the Aurelian Wall at the Museo delle Mura, a small museum housed in one of Rome’s ancient city gates.

Hands-on Activities

Trevi Fountain

Join the crowds and throw a coin into the Trevi Fountain. And if the kids ask, you can tell them that about €3000 is thrown in on an average day.

Bocca della Verità

Put your hand in the Bocca della Verità (Mouth of Truth). Just don’t tell a fib; legend says the mouth will bite it off.

CITY TRAILS

For an insight into Rome aimed directly at kids, pick up a copy of Lonely Planet’s City Trails: Rome. Perfect for children aged eight and up, it opens up a world of intriguing stories and fascinating facts about Rome’s people, places, history and culture.

Creepy Sights

Catacombs

Spook your teens with a trip to the catacombs on Via Appia Antica. These creepy tunnels, full of tombs and ancient burial chambers, are fascinating, but not suitable for children under about seven years old.

Convento dei Cappuccini

One for older kids, the crypt under the Convento dei Cappuccini is a decidedly weird place where everything is made from human bones.

NEED TO KNOW

Getting around Cobbled streets make getting around with a pram or pushchair difficult.

Eating out In a restaurant ask for a mezza porzione (child’s portion) and seggiolone (highchair).

Admission prices Under-18s get in free at state-run museums, while city-run museums are free for under-sixes and discounted for six to 25 year olds.

Transport Under-10s travel free on all public transport in the city.

Food for Kids

Pizza

Pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice) is a godsend for parents. It’s cheap (about €1 buys two small slices of pizza bianca – with salt and olive oil), easy to get hold of (there are hundreds of takeaways around town) and works wonders on flagging spirits.

Gelato

Ice cream is another manna from heaven, served in coppette (tubs) or coni (cones). Child-friendly flavours include fragola (strawberry), cioccolato (chocolate) and bacio (with hazelnuts).

Run in the Park

To let the kids off the leash, head to Villa Borghese, the most central of Rome’s main parks. There’s plenty of space to run around in – though it’s not absolutely car-free – and you can hire family bikes. Other parks are Villa Celimontana and Villa Torlonia.

Animal Spotting

Animal Sculptures

Try to spot as many animal sculptures as you can. There are hundreds around town, including an elephant (outside the Basilica di Santa Maria Sopra Minerva), lions (at the the Cordonata staircase), bees (on Bernini’s fountain just off Piazza Barberini), horses, eagles and, of course, Rome’s trademark wolf in the Capitoline Museums.

Cats

Cats have had the run of Rome’s streets for centuries. These days they hang out in the ruins on the Largo di Torre Argentina.

Zoo

After all those churches and museums, the Bioparco ( map, E5; icon-phonegif %06 360 82 11; www.bioparco.it; Viale del Giardino Zoologico 1; adult/reduced €16/13; icon-hoursgif h9.30am-6pm summer, to 5pm winter; icon-tramgif jBioparco) in Villa Borghese offers some light relief.

Like a Local

Gregarious and convivial, Romans enjoy their city. They love hanging out in its piazzas and speeding around in small cars; they like to dress up and adore going out. They know theirs is a beautiful city, but they’re not jealous and everyone is welcome.

Drink Like a Local

Coffee

Prendere un caffè (having a coffee) is one of the great rituals of Roman life. As a rule, locals will stop at a bar for a coffee in the morning before work, and then again after lunch. To fit in with the crowd, ask for un caffè (the term espresso is rarely used) and drink standing at the bar. Also, never order a cappuccino after lunch.

For a taste of Rome’s finest, head to Caffè Sant’Eustachio in the centro storico (historic centre) or Sciascia Caffè in Prati.

Cocktails

Romans have discovered craft cocktails in a big way, and underground speakeasies are a big thing right now. Hotspots include Keyhole, a model underground bar in Trastevere, and Club Derrière, a hidden hang-out in the heart of the centro storico.

Cool Neighbourhoods

Trastevere

A picturesque district full of bars, cafes and trattorias, Trastevere has long been a foreigners’ favourite. But Romans