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    Lonely Planet Peru
    Lonely Planet Peru
    Lonely Planet Peru
    Ebook1,561 pages15 hours

    Lonely Planet Peru

    By Brendan Sainsbury

    ()

    Read preview

    • Travel

    • Tourism

    • Adventure

    • Peru

    • History

    • Fish Out of Water

    • Discovery

    • Quest

    • Survival

    • Exotic Setting

    • Adventure Awaits

    • Chosen One

    • Hidden Treasure

    • Noble Savage

    • Lost World

    • Culture

    • Nature

    • Food

    • Accommodation

    • Transportation

    About this ebook

    Lonely Planet’s Peru is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Explore the ancient Inca citadel of Machu Picchu, hike to the dramatic peaks of the Cordillera Blanca, and traverse three climatic zones in the Amazonian Parque Nacional Manu; all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of Peru and begin your journey now!

     

    Inside Lonely Planet’s Peru Travel Guide:

    Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak

    NEW top experiences feature - a visually inspiring collection of [destination’s] best experiences and where to have them

    What's new feature taps into cultural trends and helps you find fresh ideas and cool new areas

    NEW pull-out, passport-size 'Just Landed' card with wi-fi, ATM and transport info - all you need for a smooth journey from airport to hotel

    Improved planning tools for family travellers - where to go, how to save money, plus fun stuff just for kids

    Colour maps and images throughout

    Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests

    Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

    Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, websites, transit tips, prices

    Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

    Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, cuisine, politics

    Over 50 maps 

    Covers Lima, Arequipa, Canyon Country, Lake Titicaca, Cuzco, the Sacred Valley, the Highlands, Huaraz, the Cordilleras, Amazon Basin

     

    The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet’s Peru, our most comprehensive guide to Peru, is perfect for both exploring top sights and taking roads less travelled. 

    Looking for just the highlights? Check out Best of Peru, a handy-sized guide focused on the can't-miss sights for a quick trip.

     

    About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travellers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day. 

     

    'Lonely Planet guides are, quite simply, like no other.' – New York Times

     

    'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves; it's in every traveller's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' – Fairfax Media (Australia)

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherLonely Planet
    Release dateMay 1, 2022
    ISBN9781838695576
    Lonely Planet Peru

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      Book preview

      Lonely Planet Peru - Brendan Sainsbury

      Front CoverLonely Planet Logo

      Peru

      MapHow To Use This eBookFull Page SamplerbuttonCountry Map

      Contents

      Plan Your Trip

      Welcome to Peru

      Peru’s Top Experiences

      Need to Know

      First Time Peru

      What’s New

      Month by Month

      Itineraries

      Peru Outdoors

      Trekking the Inca Trail

      Family Travel

      Regions at a Glance

      On The Road

      LIMA

      Sights

      Activities

      Courses

      Tours

      Festivals & Events

      Sleeping

      Eating

      Drinking & Nightlife

      Entertainment

      Shopping

      Around Lima

      Pachacamac

      Southern Beaches

      Carretera Central

      SOUTH COAST

      Cerro Azul

      Lunahuaná

      Chincha

      Pisco

      Paracas (El Chaco)

      Ica

      Huacachina

      Nazca & Around

      Chala

      Mollendo

      Moquegua

      Ilo

      Tacna

      AREQUIPA & CANYON COUNTRY

      Arequipa

      Canyon Country

      Reserva Nacional Salinas y Aguada Blanca

      Cañón del Colca

      El Valle de los Volcanes

      Cañón del Cotahuasi

      LAKE TITICACA

      Juliaca

      Lampa

      Pucará

      Puno

      Around Puno

      Lake Titicaca’s Islands

      Capachica Peninsula & Around

      South-Shore Towns

      Bolivian Shore

      CUZCO & THE SACRED VALLEY

      Cuzco

      Around Cuzco

      Saqsaywamán

      Q’enqo

      Pukapukara

      Tambomachay

      The Sacred Valley

      Pisac

      Pisac to Urubamba

      Urubamba

      Salineras de Maras

      Chinchero

      Moray & Maras

      Ollantaytambo

      Machu Picchu & the Inca Trail

      Aguas Calientes

      Machu Picchu

      The Inca Trail

      Cuzco to Puno

      Andahuaylillas

      Raqchi

      Cuzco to the Jungle

      Cuzco to Ivochote

      Cuzco to Puerto Maldonado

      Cuzco to the Central Highlands

      Cuzco to Abancay

      Cachora

      Choquequirao

      Abancay

      CENTRAL HIGHLANDS

      The North

      Canta & Obrajillo

      Cerro de Pasco

      Huánuco

      La Unión

      Tingo María

      Lima to Tarma

      San Pedro de Casta & Marcahuasi

      Tarma

      Río Mantaro Valley

      Jauja

      Concepción

      Huancayo

      The Southern Valleys

      Huancavelica

      Ayacucho

      Andahuaylas

      NORTH COAST

      Barranca

      Casma

      Chimbote

      Trujillo

      Around Trujillo

      Huanchaco

      Puerto Chicama (Puerto Malabrigo)

      Pacasmayo

      Chiclayo

      Around Chiclayo

      Piura

      Playa Lobitos

      Cabo Blanco

      Máncora

      Punta Sal

      Zorritos

      Tumbes

      Puerto Pizarro

      HUARAZ & THE CORDILLERAS

      Huaraz

      The Cordilleras

      Cordillera Blanca

      Cordillera Huayhuash

      Cordillera Negra

      North of Huaraz

      Monterrey

      Carhuaz

      Yungay

      Caraz

      South of Huaraz

      Chiquián

      Llamac

      Callejón de Conchucos

      Chavín de Huántar

      Huari

      Chacas

      NORTHERN HIGHLANDS

      Cajamarca

      Around Cajamarca

      Celendín

      Chachapoyas

      Yalape

      Gocta

      Gran Vilaya

      Karajía

      La Jalca (Jalca Grande)

      Revash

      Kuélap

      Leimebamba

      Pedro Ruíz

      Jaén

      Moyobamba

      Tarapoto

      AMAZON BASIN

      Southern Amazon

      Puerto Maldonado

      Around Puerto Maldonado

      Río Tambopata

      Río Madre de Dios

      Lago Sandoval

      Lago Valencia

      Río Heath

      Manu Area

      Cuzco to Manu

      Parque Nacional Manu

      Central Amazon

      San Ramón & La Merced

      Oxapampa

      Pucallpa

      Yarinacocha

      Northern Amazon

      Yurimaguas

      Lagunas

      Iquitos

      Around Iquitos

      UNDERSTAND

      History

      Peru’s Cuisine

      Ancient Peru

      Indigenous Peru

      The Natural World

      SURVIVAL GUIDE

      Directory A–Z

      Accessible Travel

      Accommodations

      Customs Regulations

      Electricity

      Embassies & Consulates

      Insurance

      Internet Access

      Language Courses

      Legal Matters

      LGBT+ Travelers

      Maps

      Money

      Post

      Public Holidays

      Safe Travel

      Telephone

      Time

      Toilets

      Tourist Information

      Visas

      Volunteering

      Women Travelers

      Work

      Transportation

      GETTING THERE & AWAY

      Entering the Country

      Air

      Land & River

      Tours

      GETTING AROUND

      Air

      Bicycle

      Boat

      Bus

      Car & Motorcycle

      Hitchhiking

      Local Transportation

      Train

      Health

      Language

      Behind the Scenes

      Our Writers

      COVID-19

      We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after the COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

      Welcome to Peru

      Ancient, culture-heavy, and complicated, Peru is like several worlds squeezed into one country. For me, Machu Picchu is merely the tip of a massive iceberg. Underneath, it is possible to peel off the layers slowly, piece by piece. From the remote depths of the Cotahausi Canyon to the heady heights of the Cordillera Blanca, from the rolling mists of the arid Pacific coast to the humid rainforests of the Amazon basin, from the mysterious anthropomorphic carvings of Chavín de Huántar to the modern Nikkei restaurants of metro Lima. Welcome to one of the most diverse countries on earth.

      Cordillera Blanca | MMPHOTO / GETTY IMAGES©

      By Brendan Sainsbury, Writer

      twitterpng twitter @sainsburyb

      For more, see our writers

      Peru’s Top Experiences

      1UNRAVELING PRE-COLUMBIAN RUINS

      Pre-Columbian ruins scatter the Peruvian landscape like craters on the moon. From humanoid sarcophagi – as at Karajía, pictured above – to geoglyphs etched in the desert, their breadth and diversity is astounding. Start at the dawn-of-civilization remains of Cabal and work your way through to the Inca citadels of the Sacred Valley.

      MARKTUCAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

      Machu Picchu

      One of the great wonders of the world and a long-standing symbol of Peru, the ‘lost’ city of the Incas is a little more crowded these days, although no amount of people can detract from its scale and majesty.

      GO GA/GETTY IMAGES ©

      Kuélap

      The addition of a cable-car in 2017 has improved access to these once-remote ruins in the Northern Highlands that were an erstwhile ceremonial center for the Chachapoya people. Higher than Machu Picchu and older, the massive 20m-tall walls leave an indelible first impression.

      NIARKRAD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Chavín de Huántar

      Chavín’s ruins are an exceptional feat of engineering dating from between 1200 BC and 800 BC. The striking temple-like structures above ground contrast with a labyrinthine complex of underground corridors, ducts and chambers that invite lengthy exploration.

      INSPIRED BY MAPS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Top Experiences

      2NOVOANDINA & ITS CULINARY OFFSHOOTS

      It’s rare to see a ‘world’s best restaurants’ list these days without at least one Peruvian joint in the top ten. The emergence of Novoandina cuisine in the 1980s is hardly surprising in a country that has given the global pantry tomatoes, potatoes, quinoa, and more. Recent developments have seen the growth of gastronomic subgenres including Amazonian and Nikkei cuisine.

      GUSTAVO RAMIREZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Central

      The outlier in the field of Novoandina is Central in Lima, a restaurant that hit number four in the ‘World’s Best Restaurants’ list in 2017. The key? Don’t forget your roots. Chef, Virgilio Martínez (pictured top right) uses ancient foods and growing techniques copied from the Incas.

      p.93 | CRIS BOURONCLE/GETTY IMAGES ©

      Nikkei

      The masters of Peruvian-Japanese Nikkei food are best represented in Lima where restaurants like Matsuei, Hanzo and, most notably Maido ply fried rice, sushi rolls and more creative concoctions like tofu cheesecake ice cream.

      Nikkei food | TOCHIM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Iquitos

      This steamy riverside jungle city is where you go for unadulterated Amazonian grub including worms, simmered fish intestines and fried ants. Those with weaker stomachs may want to stick to the local chupín de pollo (chicken, egg and rice soup).

      Top Experiences

      3TREKKING THE HIGH COUNTRY

      The Andes were made for great trekking. Enjoy spectacular mountain scenery and bracing lungfuls of thin air as you navigate paths lined with sporadic ruins, rugged off-the-grid villages and contrasting snippets of indigenous culture that have so far escaped the distractions of the 21st century. Some travelers sally forth independently, others hire an assemblage of guides and arrieros (mule-drivers) to smooth their passage.

      Cordillera Blanca

      The highest mountain range outside the Himalayas with 16 ostentatious summits breeching 6000m, the continent’s most challenging trekking country promises glacial lakes, massive Puya raimondii plants and shards of sky-pointed rock.

      Laguna Parón | AGUSTAVOP/GETTY IMAGES ©

      Inca Trail

      South America’s most famous pedestrian roadway (pictured above left) snakes 43km, up stone steps and through cloud forest mists, to the extravagant ruins of Machu Picchu.

      PAUL CLARKE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Cordillera Huayhuash

      The nine-day Huayhuash circuit (pictured right) is a serious undertaking and equal to anything Nepal or Tibet can throw at you. Take it slow and absorb the splendor.

      MIKADUN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Top Experiences

      4RIDING THE RIVERS

      The prime means of transportation in the Amazon basin, rivers are the metaphoric veins of Peru. Isolated jungle lodges use them as their access roads; while choppier waters in the mountains are utilized by for white-water rafting and river running through rapids. The Amazon originates near the Colca Canyon before flowing northeast past the giant river city of Iquitos. Wide and majestic, it’s an essential part of Peru’s DNA.

      KIM SCHANDORFF/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Lunahuaná

      The not-so-scary rapids of the Río Cañete have established this small town 180km south of Lima as a river running mecca in the rainy season between December and April.

      Río Apurímac

      You could wet yourself in more ways than one on this turbulent river near Cuzco where multi-day trips on class V rapids through deep gorges are for daredevils only.

      Amazon River Cruises

      Fishing and bird-watching are popular pastimes on luxury river cruises that operate out of Iquitos plying the mighty Amazon and its tributaries.

      Top Experiences

      5FABULOUS FESTIVALS

      Color and pageantry mix with piety and religion in Peru’s busy calendar of festivals. In some instances (eg Semana Santa), what starts off solemn and serious, quickly turns into something more frivolous and fun. While the lion’s share of the ceremonies are Catholic in nature honoring important saint’s days, there are also some interesting throwbacks to Pre-Columbian and Afro-Peruvian rites and traditions.

      MAURO_REPOSSINI/GETTY IMAGES ©

      Semana Santa in Ayacucho

      Semana Santa in Ayacucho lasts 10 days: and comprises a moving religious spectacle centered on a procession of Christ on a donkey through streets of flowers and palm fronds, followed by fairs, feasts and spectacular predawn fireworks on Easter Sunday.

      MAURO_REPOSSINI/GETTY IMAGES ©

      Inti Raymi

      The mother of all Inca festivals venerates the sun god ‘Inti’ and culminates with a celebration of the winter solstice at the citadel of Sacsaywamán just outside Cuzco.

      CHRISFARRUGIA/GETTY IMAGES ©

      Top Experiences

      6IMMERSION IN INDIGENOUS CULTURE

      Peru has more indigenous people than any other South American country. Comprising 45% of the total population, their traditions and culture have shaped and enriched the nation. It’s in the steeply terraced fields of the Colca Canyon, the ebullient festivals of Cuzco and the musical cadences of Quechua, Aymara and other indigenous languages. Historically, it’s reflected in the scattered archaeological sites that tell stories that go back millennia.

      Cuzco

      Mystic, commercial and chaotic, this unique city has been inhabited continuously since pre-Hispanic times. Where else can you find remnants of Inca temples, ornately dressed women walking their llamas on leashes, a museum for magical plants, and the wildest nightlife in the high Andes?

      PHILIP LEE HARVEY/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

      Lake Titicaca’s Reed Islands

      Lake Titicaca’s ingenious reed islands were first constructed centuries ago by Uros people to escape more aggressive mainland ethnic groups. The reeds are also used to build thatched homes, elegant boats (pictured left) and archways. Arrange a homestay visit to partake in fishing and learn about some traditional customs.

      TRAVELER1116/GETTY IMAGES ©

      Top Experiences

      7DIVERSITY IN THE DESERT

      Peru’s narrow coastal strip is characterized by the extremely dry Sechura desert that runs practically the whole length of the country north to south; its aridity is caused by cold ocean currents colliding with subsiding subtropical air. Far from being boring, this region is alive with interesting features, including large cities, copious archaeological sites, and giant sand dunes. If you can’t stand the heat, the Andean foothills are never far away.

      Nazca Lines

      Made by aliens? Laid out by prehistoric balloonists? Conceived as a giant astronomical chart? No two evaluations of Southern Peru’s giant geoglyphs (pictured below), communally known as the Nazca Lines are ever the same.

      MARCOS E RAMOS PONCIANO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Huacachina

      It’s hard to imagine a more archetypal desert oasis equipped with enough facilities to make it comfortable but not too many gimmicks to render it trite. Added bonus? Sandboarding in the surrounding dunes (pictured above left).

      ROBERT CHG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Cerro Blanco

      Peru’s tallest sand dune (pictured right) is usually summited on a hot, arduous three-hour climb on an organized trip from Nazca.

      LUCAS COMETTO/GETTY IMAGES ©

      Top Experiences

      8BIRD BONANZA

      In terms of avian diversity, Peru lists over 1800 different types of bird, with new species being discovered all the time. In the Manu area alone, over 360 different species have been spotted – in a single day! Condors utilize the thermal uplifts of the Andes, pelicans drop their valuable guano on rocky coastal islands, while the Andean cock-of-the-rock parades its bright orange plumage in the cloud forests.

      MARTIN MECNAROWSKI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Cruz del Cóndor

      The famed fly-past for Colca Canyon condors that glide majestically over a spectacular 1200m drop.

      Manu National Park

      One of the most bird-rich areas in the world, jungle-covered Manu must be accessed on a guided tour. Among over 1000 bird species, you can expect to see all kinds of parrots, macaws, grebes, eagles and pigmy owls.

      Huembo Interpretation Center

      Hummingbird heaven, this attractive spot is the breeding ground for the Marvelous Spatuletail in the Northern Highlands.

      Need to Know

      For more information, see Survival Guide

      Currency

      Nuevo sol (S)

      Language

      Spanish, Quechua, Aymara

      Visas

      Visas are generally not not required for travelers entering Peru.

      Money

      ATMs widely available in larger towns and cities. Credit cards accepted in most establishments.

      Cell Phones

      In Lima and other larger cities you can buy SIM cards for unlocked phones for about S15. Credit can be purchased in pharmacies and supermarkets. Cell-phone reception may be poor in the mountains or jungle.

      Time

      Eastern Standard Time (GMT/UTC minus five hours)

      When to Go

      High Season (Jun–Aug)

      A Dry season in Andean highlands and eastern rainforest.

      A Best time for festivals and highland sports, including treks.

      A Busiest time due to North American and European holidays.

      Shoulder (Sep–Nov & Mar–May)

      A Spring and fall weather in the highlands.

      A Ideal for less-crowded visits.

      A September to November for good rainforest trekking.

      Low Season (Dec–Feb)

      A Rainy season in the highlands.

      A The Inca Trail closes during February for cleanup.

      A High season for the coast and beach activities.

      A Very rainy in the Amazon, lasting through May.

      Useful Websites

      Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/peru) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveler forum and more.

      Latin America Network Information Center (www.lanic.utexas.edu/la/peru) Diverse, informative links including academic research.

      Living in Peru (www.livinginperu.com) An English-language guide with articles and restaurant reviews.

      Peru Reports (www.perureports.com) Alternative English-language news.

      Peruvian Times (www.peruviantimes.com) The latest news, in English.

      Expat Peru (www.expatperu.com) Useful for government offices and customs regulations.

      Important Numbers

      Exchange Rates

      For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

      Daily Costs

      Budget: Less than S190

      A Inexpensive hotel room or dorm bed: S28–165

      A Set lunches: less than S15; supermarkets have takeout

      A Entry fee to historic sights: average S10

      Midrange: S190–650

      A Double room in midrange hotel: S85–435

      A Main dish at midrange restaurant: S40

      A Group tours: from S120

      Top End: More than S650

      A Double room in top-end hotel: from S250–435

      A Private city tour: from S200 per person

      A Fine restaurant dinner: from S60

      Opening Hours

      Hours are variable and liable to change, especially in small towns, where hours are irregular. Posted hours are a guideline. Lima has the most continuity of services. In other major cities, taxi drivers often know where the late-night stores and pharmacies are located.

      Banks 9am–6pm Monday to Friday, some 9am–6pm Saturday

      Restaurants 10am–10pm, many close 3pm–6pm

      Museums Often close on Monday

      Government offices and businesses 9am–5pm Monday to Friday

      Shops 9am–6pm, some open Saturday

      Arriving in Peru

      Aeropuerto Internacional Jorge Chávez (Lima) Many flights arrive in the wee hours, so have a hotel booked ahead. Fast and safe, Airport Express has an hourly shuttle service with seven stops throughout Miraflores. There’s no bag limit and it has free wi-fi, USB chargers and bathrooms. Pay via the website or on the bus (cash). Combi (minibus) company La S (from S3 per person) runs various routes to Miraflores and beyond. Catch it by walking south of the airport along Av Elmer Faucett. A taxi costs S60 and takes 45 minutes to one hour (rush hour) to Miraflores, Barranco or San Isidro, faster for downtown Lima.

      Getting Around

      Peru has a constant procession of flights and buses connecting the country. Driving routes to the jungle have improved drastically. Note that poor weather conditions can result in canceled flights and buses. Strikes can be another obstacle in regional travel – consult travel experts on the routes you will be taking.

      Public transportation in Peru is cheap, plentiful and frequent.

      Light Rail Lima’s Metropolitano offers efficient, fast service to downtown.

      Train Expensive and geared toward tourists.

      Car Useful for traveling at your own pace, though cities can be difficult to navigate and secure parking is a must.

      Bus Cheapest option with reclining seats on better long-distance buses.

      Taxi A good option for sightseeing, shared taxis are common in the provinces.

      For much more on Getting Around

      First Time Peru

      For more information, see Survival Guide

      Checklist

      A Ensure your passport is valid for at least six months past your arrival date

      A Check the recommended vaccinations and medications

      A Inform debit and credit card companies of travel plans

      A Arrange appropriate travel insurance

      A Charge devices, clear memory and cloud server and find appropriate adapters

      A Check the airline baggage restrictions

      A Reserve Inca Trail and Machu Picchu tickets

      What to Pack

      A Good walking shoes or boots

      A First aid kit with blister care and rehydration salts

      A Warm waterproof gear

      A Essentials such as a Swiss Army knife, head lamp and duct tape

      A Day pack

      A Earplugs

      A Toilet paper

      A Chargers and adapter

      Top Tips for Your Trip

      A In the Cuzco area, start in the lower Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu and work up to Cuzco and higher sites to aid acclimatization.

      A Book sightseeing flights over the Nazca Lines in advance to avoid waiting around in town for days on end. Try to get an early slot when conditions are calmer.

      A Shop around for ATMs as fees vary. Banco de la Nación is usually the best for most cardholders.

      A When you go to higher altitudes, don’t book tours for the first few days, stay hydrated and take hiking ascents gradually.

      A Fly into Cuzco in the morning since afternoon flights can be cancelled due to high winds.

      A Avoid the cheapest buses which often have safety issues.

      What to Wear

      Travelers to Peru can get away with casual clothing, but remember to pack for the different climates. For the Andes bring footwear that can tackle cobblestones and mountains, plus a rain jacket and warm layers, as it can be very chilly at altitude. Amazon travelers should presoak an outfit in permethrin for maximum mosquito protection and bring light, long-sleeve clothing and brimmed hats.

      Sleeping

      Peru has accommodations to suit every budget:

      Hotels The most diverse lodging option, from budget to luxury. An overflow in touristy areas means they can be competitively priced.

      Hostels Range from huge amenity-oriented party or boutique hostels to run-down backpacker places or family-run guesthouses.

      Lodges Stately to rustic lodgings can be found anywhere from the mountains to the Amazon Basin.

      Homestays Modest lodgings with families usually arranged through Spanish-language schools.

      Camping Campgrounds are rare in Peru and generally not of great quality when you find them.

      Shopping

      Peru has a bonanza of arts and crafts. Popular souvenirs include alpaca wool sweaters and scarves, woven textiles, ceramics, masks, gold and silver jewelry and the backpacker favorite: Inca Kola T-shirts. While Lima offers a wealth of crafts, highly specialized regional items may be difficult to find. Upscale stores may add a surcharge for credit card transactions.

      Woven textiles, Cuzco | GORAN BOGICEVIC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Bargaining

      Bargaining is the norm at street stalls and markets, where it’s cash only.

      Tipping

      Restaurants Tip 10% for good service.

      Porters and tour guides Tip each separately at the end of the trip.

      Taxis Tip not required (unless drivers have assisted with heavy luggage).

      Etiquette

      Manners Peruvians are well-mannered. Transactions begin with a formal buenos días or buenas tardes.

      Photos Ask before photographing people in indigenous communities – payment may be requested.

      Antiquities It is illegal to buy pre-Columbian antiquities and take them out of Peru.

      Eating

      Cevicherías Lunch restaurants serving fresh fish marinated in lime juice, with many variations on the theme.

      Picanterías Informal local restaurants serving hearty portions of Peruvian comfort food.

      Novoandina restaurants Gourmet dining that updates old recipes with new techniques and flavor juxtapositions.

      Pollerías Rotisserie chicken joints found just about everywhere.

      Chifas Usually inexpensive Chinese restaurants, but this wouldn’t be Peru if they didn’t add their own twist.

      Quintas Country-food restaurants serving Andean comfort foods like corn, potatoes and roasted cuy (guinea pig).

      El Mercado Markets serving hearty soups and other comfort foods with brisk, no-nonsense counter service.

      What’s New

      Despite the tumult of the pandemic, Peru unveiled several surprises in 2020-21, with the country unearthing some important pre-Columbian ruins and discovering a giant cat etched on the Nazca Lines. Quirkier stories helped lighten the mood, including the Japanese tourist who was allowed to enter Machu Picchu on his own after being stranded in Peru for seven months.

      Parques Bicentenarios

      For Peru’s 200th anniversary celebrations in 2021, the country pledged to build 26 special parks, one in each regional capital (and two in Lima). Every park includes five essential components: an ecological area, a cultural center, a library, an esplanade for strolling, and a creative space for local citizens. Leading the way was Lima’s two-hectare San Isidro Park, which opened in August 2020. Work began on the capital’s second park, Malecón Armendáriz in October 2020. Spread across the cliffs of the Miraflores neighborhood, the 3.8 hectare park costing S20 million, will be beautified with 160,000 plants and criss-crossed by plazas, paths, and a cliff-spanning pedestrian bridge. Although work has been slowed by the pandemic, most of the 26 countrywide parks are expected to be fully operational by 2022.

      Puente de la Amistad

      Opened in July 2020 as part of the San Isidro Parque Bicentenario project, this pedestrian ‘Friendship’ bridge traverses Lima’s clifftops, linking the waterfront neighborhoods of San Isidro and Miraflores. The 48m bridge, which is illuminated at night, cost S9 million and includes a designated lane for cyclists.

      LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

      WHAT’S HAPPENING

      The pandemic was tough on Peru, a fact reflected not just in death rates (which by late 2020 were among the highest in the world), but also in the economic sphere. Tourist arrivals dropped by over three-quarters in 2020, a bitter pill to swallow in a country that employs 1.4 million people in the tourism trade. Psychologically, it couldn’t have come at a worse time. 2021 was Peru’s bicentennial, with the country celebrating two centuries since its independence from Spain. Some digital celebrations took place in the year’s formative months while other real-world events may yet be possible as the vaccine roll-out progresses. Meanwhile, the country faces multiple challenges as it navigates its way through choppy waters post-pandemic still reeling from political protests in November 2020 that saw two presidents deposed in less than a week. At the time of writing the 2021 presidential election had gone to a run-off between Pedro Castillo and Keiko Fujimori. A winner had not been formally announced by electoral authorities in the weeks after the ballet of 6 June.

      Wat’a Ruins

      Thanks to a new form of archaeological technology called Lidar (Light Detection and Ranging), international scientists have been able to gain a better understanding of an ancient Andean settlement near Cuzco that is purportedly older than Machu Picchu. Drones with laser lights have detected man-made features beneath the vegetation and subsequently created a 3D map of the site, which has been christened Wat’a (meaning ‘island’ in the indigenous language). Perched at 4000m above sea level, the site contains both Inca and pre-Inca ruins. Field information is still being gathered, but early findings suggest it may have acted as a template for Machu Picchu.

      Nikkei Food

      Still in the midst of a meteoric rise, Peruvian food has recently gained recognition for one of its more inventive subgenres – Nikkei cuisine. Using Peruvian ingredients — such as tropical fish, quinoa, aji and peppers — prepared with traditional Japanese techniques, Nikkei serves up such unusual delights as nigiri sushi, sea urchin rice and 50-hour cooked beef short rib. In the prestigious 2019 William Reed ‘World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ list, Lima’s Maido restaurant, captained by chef, Mitsuharu ‘Micha’ Tsumura, clocked in at an impressive No 10.

      Sapiens

      Lima’s most anticipated post-pandemic restaurant opening is that of Sapiens, a new venture by star Peruvian chef Jaime Pesaque, who has already cemented a legendary reputation at Lima’s Mayta. Earmarked for a spring 2021 opening in the capital’s San Isidro neighborhood, Sapiens’ central thesis revolves around three wood- and charcoal-fired grills dedicated to meat, fish, and vegetables. The business will also be producing its owned cured meats, including an enticing alpaca salami.

      ‘New’ Nazca Geoglyph

      Excitement hit the famous Nazca Lines in 2020 when a geoglyph in the shape of a cat was discovered by archeologists in the middle of the Covid-19 pandemic. Barely visible and located on a steep hill, the 37m-long figure, thought to date from between 500BC and 200AD, has now been partially restored. Feline symbology was common in Paracas culture and often found on textiles and ceramics.

      LISTEN, WATCH & FOLLOW

      For inspiration, visit visit www.lonelyplanet.com/peru/articles

      Latin America Network Information Center (www.lanic.utexas.edu/la/peru) Diverse, informative links including academic research.

      Living in Peru (www.livinginperu.com) An English-language guide with articles and restaurant reviews.

      Peru Reports (www.perureports.com) Alternative English-language news.

      Peruvian Times (www.peruviantimes.com) The latest news, in English.

      FAST FACTS

      Food trend Nikkei

      Official languages: Spanish, Quechua, Aymara

      Life zones 84 (out of 104 worldwide)

      Pop 31.8 million

      Taste of the Amazon

      Riding on the coattails of Cocina Novoandina, Amazonian food has come in from the jungle and acquired a gourmet touch. The hub of the movement is still in and around the Amazon basin and the Northern Highlands where fried ants and juane (rice, meat and egg wrapped in a bijao leaf) are creeping onto gourmet menus.

      Month by Month

      TOP EVENTS

      Q’oyoriti, May/June

      Semana Santa, March/April

      Carnaval, February/March

      Verano Negro, February/March

      Fiesta de la Vendimia, March

      January

      January through March is the busiest (and most expensive) season on the coast, with beach facilities open and festivals rocking. In the mountains and canyons, this is rainy season, best avoided by trekkers and mountaineers.

      z Año Nuevo

      New Year’s Day, January 1, is particularly big in Huancayo, where a full-blown fiesta continues until Epiphany (January 6).

      z Danza de los Negritos

      In the central highlands town of Huánuco, revelers wear costumes with black masks to commemorate slave forefathers who worked the area mines.

      z Fiesta de la Marinera

      Trujillo’s national dance festival is held during the last week in January, with contest participants decked out in elaborate finery.

      February

      The Inca Trail is closed all month. Many Peruvian festivals echo the Roman Catholic calendar and are celebrated with great pageantry, especially in indigenous highland villages, where Catholic feast days are often linked with traditional agricultural festivals.

      z La Virgen de la Candelaria

      Held on February 2, this highland fiesta, also known as Candlemas, is particularly colorful around Puno, where folkloric music and dance celebrations last for two weeks.

      z Carnaval

      Held on the last few days before Lent (in February or March), this holiday is often celebrated with weeks of water fights, so be warned. It’s popular in the highlands – the Cajamarca festival is one of the biggest – and is also busy in the beach towns.

      March

      Beach resort prices go down and crowds disperse, though the coast remains sunny. Orchids bloom post–rainy season on the Inca Trail and Amazonian birds enact their mating rituals.

      z Verano Negro

      A must for anyone with an interest in Afro–Peruvian culture, this festival in Chincha features plenty of music and dancing. It takes place in late February or early March.

      z Fiesta de la Vendimia

      A big celebration in the south coast’s two main wine regions, Ica and Lunahuaná, these harvest festivals involve some grape stomping.

      April

      Crowds and high-season prices mark Holy Week, a boon of national tourism in March or April. Hotel prices spike to their highest and availability is low. Reserve well in advance.

      z Semana Santa

      The week before Easter Sunday, Holy Week is celebrated with spectacular religious processions almost daily; Ayacucho has the biggest celebration in Peru, lasting a full 10 days. Arequipa and Huancayo also have Easter processions.

      May

      By May the heaviest rains have passed, leaving the highlands lush and green. With the return of drier weather, the trekking season starts to take off in Huaraz and around Cuzco.

      z Fiesta de la Cruces

      This fascinating religious festival is held on May 3 in various locations including Lima, Apurímac, Ayacucho, Junín, Ica and Cuzco.

      z Q’oyoriti

      A fascinating indigenous pilgrimage to the holy mountain of Ausangate, outside Cuzco, in May or June. Though known by few outsiders, it’s well worth checking out.

      z El Señor de Muruhuay

      This big annual pilgrimage with an image of a crucified Christ happens in late May – with processions and fireworks to accompany the religious fervor.

      June

      High season for international tourism runs June through August, with Machu Picchu requiring advance reservations for train tickets and entry. It’s also the busiest time for festivals in and around Cuzco.

      z Corpus Christi

      Processions of this Catholic celebration in traditional Cuzco are especially dramatic. It’s held on the ninth Thursday after Easter.

      z Inti Raymi

      The Festival of the Sun is the greatest Inca festival, celebrating the winter solstice on June 24. It’s certainly the spectacle of the year in Cuzco, attracting thousands of Peruvian and foreign visitors. It’s also a big holiday in many jungle towns.

      z San Juan

      The feast of San Juan is all debauchery in Iquitos, where dancing, feasting and cockfights go on until the wee hours on the eve of the actual holiday of June 24.

      z Selvámanos

      Reggae, cumbia (a Colombian salsa-like dance and musical style) and electronica rock the jungle at this music festival held near Oxapampa in a spectacular national park setting.

      2 Semana de Andinismo

      Mountaineering aficionados descend on the city of Huaraz to celebrate the Andes with hikes, rock climbing, paragliding, skiing and concerts.

      z San Pedro y San Pablo

      The feasts of Sts Peter and Paul provide more fiestas on June 29, especially around Lima and in the highlands.

      1 Spot the Marvelous Spatuletail

      June is your best opportunity to spot this unique and endangered hummingbird in tracts of forest around the Río Utcubamba valley near Chachapoyas.

      July

      The continuation of high-season tourism. In Lima the weather is marked by garúa, a thick, grey sea mist that lingers over the city for the next few months and brings a chill.

      z La Virgen del Carmen

      Held on July 16, this holiday is mainly celebrated in the southern sierra – with Paucartambo and Pisac near Cuzco, and Pucará near Lake Titicaca being especially important centers.

      z Fiesta del Santiago

      Río Mantaro valley towns, especially Huancayo, dress up cattle and parade them through the streets. There’s also singing and dancing, in what many believe is an ancient fertility right.

      z Fiestas Patrias

      The National Independence Days are celebrated nationwide on July 28 and 29; festivities in the southern sierra begin with the Feast of St James on July 25.

      August

      The last month of high tourist visitation throughout Peru is also typically the most crowded at Machu Picchu. Book reservations for lodging and site tickets well ahead.

      2 Sierra Andina Mountain Trail

      This annual marathon along the Santa Cruz trail to turquoise lakes under snowbound peaks provides hearty athletes with a super-scenic challenge.

      z Feast of Santa Rosa de Lima

      Commemorating the country’s first saint, major processions are held on August 30 in Lima, Arequipa and Junín to honor the patron saint of Lima and of the Americas.

      September

      Low season everywhere, September and October can still offer good weather to highland trekkers without the crowds, while migrating birds become another attraction for birders.

      5 Mistura

      For one week in September, this massive internationally acclaimed food festival is held in Lima, drawing up to half a million visitors to sample the country’s best restaurants and street food.

      3 El Festival Internacional de la Primavera

      Not to be missed – the International Spring Festival in Trujillo features supreme displays of horsemanship, as well as dancing and cultural celebrations during the last week of September.

      October

      The best time to hit the Amazon runs from September to November when drier weather results in better wildlife-watching and easier travel throughout the region.

      2 Great Amazon River Raft Race

      Attracting teams from the world over, the longest raft race in the world flows between Nauta and Iquitos in September or early October.

      z La Virgen del Rosario

      On October 4, this saint’s celebration comes to Lima, Apurímac, Arequipa and Cuzco. Its biggest event is held in Ancash, with a symbolic confrontation between Moors and Christians.

      z El Señor de los Milagros

      A major religious festival, the Lord of the Miracles celebration is held in Lima on October 18, around which time the bullfighting season starts.

      z El Señor de Luren

      Travel down to Ica in late October for this religious festival, which is marked by fireworks, processions and plenty of merriment.

      November

      A good month for festivals, with plenty of events to choose from. It’s worth checking out the wild celebrations held in Puno. Waves return, calling all surfers to the coast.

      z Todos Santos

      All Saints’ Day is celebrated on November 1. It’s a religious precursor with processions into the following day and Catholic Masses.

      z Día de los Muertos

      All Souls’ Day is celebrated on November 2 with gifts of food, drink and flowers taken to family graves. It’s especially colorful in the Andes where some of the ‘gift’ food and drink is consumed, and the atmosphere is festive rather than somber.

      z Puno Week

      Starting November 5, this week-long festival involves several days of spectacular costumes and street dancing to celebrate the legendary emergence of the first Inca, Manco Cápac.

      December

      Beach season returns with warmer Pacific temperatures. Skip the Amazon, where heavy rains start falling from the end of the month through early April.

      z Fiesta de la Purísima Concepción

      The Feast of the Immaculate Conception on December 8 is a national holiday celebrated with religious processions in honor of the Virgin Mary.

      3 La Virgen del Carmen de Chincha

      Frenzied dancing and all-night music in the peñas (bars or clubs featuring live folkloric music) of El Carmen on December 27.

      Itineraries

      Greatest Hits Express

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      1 WEEK

      This strictly greatest-hits itinerary best suits those with only time enough for a first taste of Peru.

      Start your journey in Lima; sleep in at cozy Barranco lodgings and find a ceviche restaurant for a leisurely seafood lunch with a touch of pisco. Follow it up by visiting museums in Lima Centro or by renting bikes to pedal the clifftops via the parks of Miraflores.

      Fly early the next day to Cuzco, transferring immediately to the lower Sacred Valley to acclimatize for several days. Explore the market and ruins of Pisac, tour Moray and Maras, perhaps by mountain bike or on foot. With ancient Ollantaytambo as your base, take the train to Aguas Calientes for a day of exploration in the world-famous Inca citadel Machu Picchu. From here, take the train to Estación Poroy so you can spend your last day tripping the cobblestones of wonderful Cuzco, with museum visits, arts and crafts shops and great restaurants. If you can, squeeze in an evening visit to the planetarium.

      Fly back to Lima for your final hurrah, with perhaps a food tour before checking out the club scene before you head back home.

      Itineraries

      The Gringo Trail

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      3 WEEKS

      This trip hits some of the preeminent highlights of the continent incorporating an irresistible Peruvian potpourri of ancient ruins, rugged trekking and muscular colonial-era architecture.

      Linger briefly in Lima before dragging yourself away from the gourmet restaurants and foggy clifftops of Miraflores to journey south to Pisco and Paracas, where you can boat to the wildlife-rich Islas Ballestas, lodging in Paracas. The nearby desert reserve with its archaeological remains and spectacular arid coastline will fill another day of quiet exploration. Then it’s on to Ica, Peru’s wine and pisco capital, and the palm-fringed, dune-lined oasis of Huacachina. Famous for sandboarding, this is a good place to overnight. Next is Nazca for a flight over the mysterious Nazca Lines.

      Huacachina | SPARC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Turn inland for the ‘White City’ of Arequipa, with its colonial architecture, excellent cuisine and giant monastic complex. Take a bus or car over the 4910m Paso de Patopampa for some trekking in the incredible Cañón del Colca with its ancient agricultural terraces or the remote Cañón del Cotahuasi, the world’s deepest. Alternatively, you can opt to climb El Misti, an almost perfectly symmetrical 5822m volcano. Continue upwards to Puno, Peru’s port on Lake Titicaca, the world’s highest commercially navigable lake. From here you can boat to traditional islands and explore the strange chullpas (ancient funerary towers) at Sillustani and Cutimbo. It is also possible to make a short (or long) visit to Bolivia by continuing on to the towns and islands on the lake’s southern shore.

      Chullpa (funerary tower), Sillustani | SAIKO3P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Wind through the Andes to the former Inca capital of Cuzco, South America’s oldest continuously inhabited city. Bag a comfortable hotel, browse colorful markets and explore archaeological sites in the Sacred Valley, then trek to Machu Picchu via an adventurous alternative route. Creative options include a mixture of jungle hiking, mountain biking and even rafting.

      Itineraries

      The Best of Peru

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      4 WEEKS

      If you’re set on getting a taste of everything, this whirlwind tour hits Peru’s top must-see attractions. Give yourself a full month to take it all in.

      Conquer your jet lag by becoming acquainted with the exquisite tastes of Peru in the restaurants of Lima, strolling in parks and museums between meals. Head south through the coastal desert for a flyover of the Nazca Lines before arriving in stylish, cosmopolitan Arequipa, with its mysterious monasteries, deep canyons and smoking volcanoes.

      Fly high into the Andes to reach the ancient Inca capital of Cuzco for a few days of acclimatization, exploring the cobblestone city and visiting Sacred Valley villages to check out colorful markets selling textiles, talismans and dozens of types of tubers. Then board the train to Machu Picchu, the most visited archaeological site in South America.

      From Cuzco, fly to Puerto Maldonado (or brave the 10-hour bus ride) where you can kick back at a wildlife lodge along one of the mighty rivers of the Amazon Basin. Alternatively, take an overland tour from Cuzco to the Manu area, with remote tracts of virgin forest holding diverse animals, from kinkajous to caimans; it’s one of the most biodiverse areas of the planet. Another option for exploring the Amazonian selva (jungle) is to first fly back to Lima, then onward to Iquitos, a bustling port that will launch you deeper into the jungle.

      Back in Lima, take a bus or fly north to the adventurers’ base camp of Huaraz, where a short trek will take you to the precipitous peaks of the Cordillera Blanca. A day trip to Chavín de Huántar will lead you to one of Peru’s oldest ancient sites. Head back down to the coast at Chimbote, then dash north to historic Trujillo, which offers spicy northern dishes, surrounded by a cornucopia of archaeological sites. These include the ruins of the largest pre-Columbian city in the Americas, Chan Chan, and the fascinating Huacas del Sol y de la Luna. Finish up the journey by taking a seaside break at the bustling surf town of Máncora.

      Itineraries

      The Inca Heartland

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      2 WEEKS

      Follow this trail to soak in the most potent Inca sites and the altiplano (Andean plateau).

      From Lima, fly to Cuzco but travel to the lower Sacred Valley to spend your first few days acclimatizing to the altitude. Visit the bustling market of Pisac, see the ruins and ride horses at Moray and Maras. The best accommodations are in the quaint Inca village of Ollantaytambo, at a swanky valley resort or area B&B.

      From Ollantaytambo, hike the town ruins in the morning or visit the cool salt pans of Salineras and take an afternoon train to Aguas Calientes. Enjoy a leisurely dinner and go to bed early to take the first bus to the great Inca citadel of Machu Picchu.

      The following morning, hop on the train to Cuzco. Now that you’re acclimatized, spend a few days enjoying the charms of this former Inca capital, taking a walking tour, visiting a few museums, admiring the splendors of Qorikancha, the Inca’s most spectacular temple, and enjoying the city’s outstanding cuisine.

      Grab a comfortable tourist bus (or take the historic train) to the altiplano city of Puno. If you can coincide with a festival, this is the place to do it, with wild costumes, brass bands and fervent merriment. Otherwise, take in folkloric music at a dinner show or adventure to aquatic accommodations on the retired steamship Yavari.

      From your base in Puno, the funerary towers of the Colla, Lupaca and Inca cultures can be found at Sillustani and Cutimbo, an easy day trip, and worth combining with lovely Lampa and its historic church. Take a boat tour of Lake Titicaca, visiting the famous reed islands and staying overnight in traditional family lodgings on Isla Amantaní. If you have a few extra days, take a catamaran tour, which also visits the Bolivian islands of Isla del Sol and Isla de la Luna, landing you in Copacabana, from where you can take a tourist bus back to Puno. Returning to Puno, explore the rural coast of the Capachica Peninsula, home to places still steeped in the ancient traditions of the altiplano with nary another traveler in sight.

      Get ready for the culture shock of big-city living, and fly back to Lima.

      Itineraries

      Exploring Amazonia

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      4 WEEKS

      More than half of Peru is jungle, populated by spectacular wildlife and tribal peoples. Go overland and drop dramatically away from the eastern slopes of the Andes to slip deep into the Amazon Basin, which stretches all the way to the Atlantic. This entire itinerary takes a month, or it can be divided by region into one- or two-week segments.

      The most popular excursion starts from Cuzco and heads to the Manu area, itself the size of a small country, albeit one with kingdoms of jungle lodges. Another option is to fly from Cuzco to Puerto Maldonado and relax in a thatch-roofed bungalow with a view, either along the Río Madre de Dios, the gateway to lovely Lago Sandoval, or along the Río Tambopata, where a national reserve protects one of the country’s largest clay licks. The dry season (July and August) is traditionally the best time to return overland back to Cuzco, although the recent paving of this route means it’s now possible outside these months.

      Alternatively, return to Lima and turn your focus to the north. The easiest way to get there is to fly from Lima to Pucallpa, a city experiencing a resurgence in popularity, and stay in a lodge or a bungalow in the nearby traveler hangout of Yarinacocha. The lovely oxbow lake is ringed by tribal villages. You can visit some of these, including those of the matriarchal Shipibo people, renowned for their pottery. Hardcore overland travelers can opt to reach Pucallpa from Lima via a multiday river trip to San Ramón, a coffee-growing settlement.

      From Pucallpa, begin the classic slow riverboat journey north along the Río Ucayali to Iquitos, the world’s largest city with no road access. This northern jungle capital has a buoyant cultural and nightlife scene, a floating market and a bustling port, where you can catch a more comfortable cruise into Peru’s largest protected space, Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria. You can also access Iquitos flying from Cuzco. It’s also tempting to float over into Colombia or Brazil via the unique Tri-Border Zone.

      It’s best to fly if your time is limited; if not, lose yourself for weeks on epic river and road journeys through jungle terrain. Bring bucketloads of patience and self-reliance – and a lot of luck never hurts.

      Itineraries

      North Coast

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      2 WEEKS

      Explore beaches and ancient civilizations heading toward Ecuador.

      Head north from Lima to Caral, where South America’s oldest known civilization arose. Further north, spy engravings of human sacrifice at Sechín and continue to Trujillo. Also see the Moche pyramids, the ruins of the once-mighty Chan Chan and the Museo Arqueológico Municipal de Moche. Off the beaches at Huanchaco surfers hit the breakers while local fishers trawl the coast. To the north, Puerto Chicama boasts one of the world’s longest left-hand breaks. The tiny town now has a wonderful new boardwalk overlooking the action.

      Then on to Chiclayo, with world-class museums showcasing riches from the important archaeological site of Sipán. Craft-market hub Piura boasts great dining, while the witch doctors of Huancabamba are tucked into the Andes. Peru’s best beaches lie north, with resorts such as Colán, Máncora and Punta Sal; linger here to feast on seafood and dance the balmy nights away.

      The journey ends at Tumbes, gateway to Ecuador and jumping-off point to Peru’s endangered mangrove swamps.

      Itineraries

      The Wild & Ancient North

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      2 WEEKS

      Explore little-known highland ruins, ending up at the wonders of the Peruvian Amazon.

      From Lima, head to Trujillo, sampling the fiery coastal cuisine and exploring nearby ruins at Chan Chan and Huacas del Sol y de la Luna. From here, take the freshly paved scenic highway to Cajamarca via the mountaintop ruins of Marcahuamachuco.

      Cajamarca is where the conquistadors captured Inca Atahualpa. In the dry season, travel along the spectacular route to Celendín and Leimebamba to see the local museum displaying pre-Colombian mummies. Continue on to Chachapoyas where the cloud forest obscures the fantastic monolithic fortress of Kuélap.

      From Chachapoyas, journey via Pedro Ruíz to Tarapoto, where you can hike in lush forest to waterfalls. Next, fly to the jungle city of Iquitos or continue via Yurimaguas, where cargo boats make the rugged two-day trip to Iquitos via the village of Lagunas, the western entry point to the Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria, for an unforgettable glimpse of the world’s greatest river basin. At Iquitos, you can arrange boat trips that go deeper into the rainforest and on to Brazil or Colombia.

      Plan Your Trip

      Peru Outdoors

      Scale icy Andean peaks. Raft one of the world’s deepest canyons. Surf the heavenly Pacific curlers. Walk the flanks of a smoldering volcano known locally as a living deity. With its breathtaking, diverse landscapes, Peru is a natural adventure hub. So gear up and take the Band-Aids – you’re in for one wild ride.

      Jaguar, Río Tambopata | MARKTUCAN /SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Top Wildlife-Watching Spots

      Parque Nacional Manu

      Jaguars, tapirs and monkeys inhabit this expansive rainforest park, one of the continent’s wildest, deep in the Amazon.

      Cañón del Colca

      Andean condors glide over this rugged canyon, the second deepest in the world.

      Islas Ballestas

      Colonies of honking sea lions and penguins claim these rocky Pacific outcrops off Peru’s south coast.

      Parque Nacional Huascarán

      Giant Puya raimondii plants burst with flowers while vicuñas and viscachas bustle around the high alpine landscape of the Cordillera Blanca.

      Tumbes

      A rare mangrove forest on the northernmost coast, home to crocodiles, seabirds, flamingos and crabs.

      Hiking & Trekking

      Pack your hiking boots because the variety of trails in Peru is downright staggering. The main trekking centers are Cuzco and Arequipa in the southern Andes, and Huaraz in the north. Hikers will find many easily accessible trails around Peru’s archaeological ruins, which are also the final destinations for more challenging trekking routes.

      History goes deep here – you may be hiking through terraced fields along ancient trade routes or trails used by Inca messengers. Yet even then, the fledgling status of some outdoor activities here means that, in certain times and places, you can get a whole mountain, sandy shore or complex of ruins to yourself.

      Big plans are in the works for Qhapaq Ñan, the Inca road system which became a World Heritage Site in 2014. It spans a whopping 22,530km from Colombia to Chile and follows one of the most scenic routes possible, proving definitively that the Incas were master road builders. The trail sections above 4000m are in particularly good shape, thanks to a lack of interference. Tourism outfitters hope that the designation will spur investment into these often-neglected trails. SA Expeditions ( icon-phonegif %in USA 1-415-549-8049; www.saexpeditions.com) operats a five-day route from Castillo to Huanuco Pampa and plans to add more. Look out for other new trekking opportunities on this route.

      Peru’s most famous trek is the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. Limited permits mean this guided-only trek sells out months in advance. For those who haven’t planned so far in advance, there are worthwhile alternative routes. In addition, other possibilities around Cuzco include the spectacular six-day trek around the venerated Ausangate (6372m), which will take you over 5000m passes, through huge herds of alpacas and past tiny hamlets unchanged in centuries. Likewise, the isolated Inca site of Choquequirao is another intriguing destination for a trek.

      Machu Picchu | GLEB AITOV /SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      In nearby Arequipa, you can go into some of the world’s deepest canyons – the world-famous Cañón del Colca and the Cañón del Cotahuasi. The scenery is guaranteed to knock you off your feet, and it’s easier going than some higher altitude destinations. During the wet season, when some Andean trekking routes are impassable, Colca is invitingly lush and green. It’s also the best place in Peru for DIY trekking between rural villages. The more remote and rugged Cañón del Cotahuasi is best visited with an experienced local guide and only during the dry season.

      Outside Huaraz, the Cordillera Blanca can’t be beaten for vistas of rocky, snowcapped mountaintops, while the remote and rugged Cordillera Huayhuash is similarly stunning. The classic and favorite trekking route is the four-day journey from Llanganuco to Santa Cruz, where hardy mountaineers climb the 4760m Punta Union pass, surrounded by ice-clad peaks. Longer treks include the northern route around the dazzling Alpamayo, which requires at least a week. Shorter overnight trips in the area go to mountain base camps, alpine lakes and even along an old Inca road.

      Cuzco and Huaraz (and, to a lesser degree, Arequipa) have outfitters that can provide equipment, guides and even arrieros (mule drivers). If you prefer to trek ultralight, you might want to purchase your own gear, especially a sleeping bag, as old-generation rental items tend to be heavy. Whether you’ll need a guide depends on where you trek. Certain areas of Peru, such as along the Inca Trail, require guides; in other places, such as in the Cordillera Huayhuash, there have been muggings, so it’s best to be with a local. Thankfully, scores of other trekking routes are wonderfully DIY. Equip yourself with topographic maps for major routes in the nearest major gateway towns or, better yet, at the Instituto Geográfico Nacional (IGN) or at the South American Explorers Club in Lima.

      Whatever adventure you choose, be prepared to spend a few days acclimating to the dizzying altitudes – or face a heavy-duty bout of altitude sickness.

      In the Andes, trekking is most rewarding during the dry season (May to September). Avoid the wet season (December to March), when rain makes some areas impassable.

      RESPONSIBLE TREKKING

      A Don’t depend on open fires. Cook on a lightweight camp stove and dispose of butane cartridges responsibly.

      A Carry out all rubbish.

      A Contamination of water sources by human waste can lead to the transmission of diseases. Where there is a toilet, use it. Where there isn’t, bury your waste. Dig a small hole 15cm deep and at least 100m from any watercourse. Cover the waste with soil and a rock. Pack out toilet paper.

      A For washing, use biodegradable soap and a water container at least 50m away from any watercourses. Disperse the waste water widely to allow the soil to filter it fully.

      A Do not feed the wildlife.

      A Some trails pass through private property. It’s polite to ask residents before crossing their property and to leave all livestock gates as you found them.

      A Don’t give children money, sweets or gifts. This encourages persistent begging, which has become a major problem on some busy routes. If you wish to help, consider donating directly to local schools, NGOs and other volunteer organizations.

      A Keep a low profile: the gear you are carrying costs more than many locals earn in a month (or a year). Stow everything inside your tent at night.

      Mountain, Rock & Ice Climbing

      Peru has the highest tropical mountains in the world, offering some absolutely inspired climbs, though acclimatization to altitude is essential. The Cordillera Blanca, with its dozens of snowy peaks exceeding 5000m, is one of South America’s top destinations. The Andean town of Huaraz has tour agencies, outfitters, guides, information and climbing equipment for hire. Still, it’s best to bring your own gear for serious ascents. Near Huaraz, Ishinca (5530m) and Pisco (5752m) provide two ascents easy enough for relatively inexperienced climbers. For experts, these mountains are also good warm-up climbs for bigger adventures such as Huascarán (6768m), Peru’s highest peak. Other challenging peaks include the stunning, knife-edged Alpamayo (5947m) and Yerupajá (6634m), Peru’s second-highest mountain, located in the Cordillera Huayhuash. Rock and ice climbing are also taking off around Huaraz, where a few outfitters have indoor climbing walls, rent out technical equipment and organize group trips.

      In southern Peru, the snowy volcanic peaks around Arequipa can be scaled by determined novice mountaineers. The most popular climb is El Misti (5822m), a site of Inca human sacrifice. Despite its serious altitude, it is basically a very long, tough walk. Chachani (6075m) is one of the easier 6000m peaks in the world – though it still requires crampons, an ice ax and a good guide. Other tempting peaks tower above the Cañón del Colca.

      For beginners looking to bag their first serious mountains, Peru may not be the best place to start. Not all guides know the basics of first aid or wilderness search and rescue. Check out a prospective guide’s credentials carefully and seek out those who are personally recommended. Carefully check any rental equipment before setting out.

      As with trekking, high-elevation climbing is best done during the height of the dry season (mid-June to mid-July).

      Trekking the Cordillera Huayhuash | MIKADUN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Rafting & Kayaking

      Rafting (river running) is growing in popularity around Peru, with trips that range from a few hours to more than two weeks.

      Cuzco is the launch point for the greatest variety of rafting options. Choices range from a few hours of mild rafting on the Urubamba to adrenaline-pumping rides on the Santa Teresa to several days on the Apurímac, technically the source of the Amazon (with world-class rafting between May and November). A rafting trip on the Tambopata, available from June through October, tumbles down the eastern slopes of the Andes, culminating in a couple of days of floating in unspoiled rainforest.

      Arequipa is another rafting center. Here, the Río Chili is the most frequently run, with a half-day novice trip leaving daily between March and November. Further afield, the more challenging Río Majes features class II and III rapids. On the south coast, Lunahuaná, not far from Lima, is a prime spot for beginners and experts alike. Between December and April, rapids here can reach class IV.

      Note that rafting is not regulated in Peru. There are deaths every year and some rivers are so remote that rescues can take days. In addition, some companies are not environmentally responsible and leave camping beaches dirty. Book excursions only with reputable, well-recommended agencies and avoid cut-rate trips. A good operator will have insurance, provide you with a document indicating that they are registered, and have highly experienced guides with certified first-aid training who carry a properly stocked medical kit. Choose one that provides top-notch equipment, including self-bailing rafts, US Coast Guard–approved life jackets, first-class helmets and spare paddles. Many good companies raft rivers accompanied by a kayaker experienced in river rescue.

      For more on rafting in Peru, visit www.peruwhitewater.com.

      Rafting, Lunahuaná,

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