Charles Godfrey Leland – The Major Collection

Charles Godfrey Leland – The Major Collection

Legends of Florence

Memoirs

The Algonquin Legends of New England

The Breitmann Ballads

The English Gipsies and Their Language

The Gypsies

The Mystic Will

Legends of Florence, by Charles Godfrey Leland

PREFACE

This book consists almost entirely of legends or traditions of a varied character, referring to places and buildings in Florence, such as the Cathedral and Campanile, the Signoria, the Bargello, the different city gates, ancient towers and bridges, palaces, crosses, and fountains, noted corners, odd by-ways, and many churches. To all of these there are tales, or at least anecdotes attached, which will be found as entertaining to the general reader as they will be interesting, not to say valuable, to the folklorist and the student of social history; but here I must leave the work to speak for itself.

I originally intended that this should be entirely a collection of relics of ancient mythology, with superstitions and sorceries, witchcraft and incantations, or what may be called occult folk-lore, of which my work on Etruscan-Roman Remains in Popular Tradition consists, and of which I have enough additional material to make a large volume. But having resolved to add to it local legends, and give them the preference, I found that the latter so abounded, and were so easily collected by an expert, that I was obliged to cast out my occult folk-lore, piece by piece, if I ever hoped to get into the port of publication, according to terms with the underwriters, following the principle laid down by the illustrious Poggio, that in a storm the heaviest things must go overboard first, he illustrating the idea with the story of the Florentine, who, having heard this from the captain when at sea in a tempest, at once threw his wife into the raging billows--perche non haveva cosa piu grave di lei--because there was nought on earth which weighed on him so heavily.

There are several very excellent and pleasant works on Old Florence, such as that portion devoted to it in the Cities of Central Italy, by A. J. C. Hare; the Walks about Florence, by the Sisters Horner; Florentine Life, by Scaife; and the more recent and admirable book by Leader Scott, which are all--I say it advisedly--indispensable for those who would really know something about a place which is unusually opulent in ancient, adventurous, or artistic associations. My book is, however, entirely different from these, and all which are exclusively taken from authentic records and books. My tales are, with a few exceptions, derived directly or indirectly from the people themselves--having been recorded in the local dialect--the exceptions being a few anecdotes racy of the soil, taken from antique jest-books and such bygone halfpenny literature as belonged to the multitude, and had its origin among them. These I could not, indeed, well omit, as they every one refer to some peculiar place in Florence. To these I must add several which remained obscurely in my memory, but which I did not record at the time of hearing or reading, not having then the intention of publishing such a book.

It has been well observed by Wordsworth that minor local legends sink more deeply into the soul than greater histories, as is proved by the fact that romantic folk-lore spreads far and wide over the world, completely distancing in the race the records of mighty men and their deeds. The magic of Washington Irving has cast over the Catskills and the Hudson, by means of such tales, an indescribable fascination, even as Scott made of all Scotland a fairyland; for it is indisputable that a strange story, or one of wild or quaint adventure, or even of humour, goes further to fix a place in our memory than anything else can do. Therefore I have great hope that these fairy-tales of Florence, and strange fables of its fountains, palaces, and public places--as they are truly gathered from old wives, and bear in themselves unmistakable evidences of antiquity--will be of real use in impressing on many memories much which is worth retaining, and which would otherwise have been forgotten.

The manner in which these stories were collected was as follows:--In the year 1886 I made the acquaintance in Florence of a woman who was not only skilled in fortune-telling, but who inherited as a family gift from generations, skill in witchcraft--that is, a knowledge of mystical cures, the relieving people who were bewitched, the making amulets, and who had withal a memory stocked with a literally incredible number of tales and names of spirits, with the invocations to them, and strange rites and charms. She was a native of the Romagna Toscana, where there still lurks in the recesses of the mountains much antique Etrusco-Roman heathenism, though it is disappearing very rapidly. Maddalena--such was her name--soon began to communicate to me all her lore. She could read and write, but beyond this never gave the least indication of having opened a book of any kind; albeit she had an immense library of folk-lore in her brain. When she could not recall a tale or incantation, she would go about among her extensive number of friends, and being perfectly familiar with every dialect, whether Neapolitan, Bolognese, Florentine, or Venetian, and the ways and manners of the poor, and especially of witches, who are the great repositories of legends, became in time wonderfully well skilled as a collector. Now, as the proverb says, Take a thief to catch a thief, so I found that to take a witch to catch witches, or detect their secrets, was an infallible means to acquire the arcana of sorcery. It was in this manner that I gathered a great part of the lore given in my Etruscan-Roman Remains. I however collected enough, in all conscience, from other sources, and verified it all sufficiently from classic writers, to fully test the honesty of my authorities.

The witches in Italy form a class who are the repositories of all the folk-lore; but, what is not at all generally known, they also keep as strict secrets an immense number of legends of their own, which have nothing in common with the nursery or popular tales, such as are commonly collected and published. The real witch-story is very often only a frame, so to speak, the real picture within it being the arcanum of a long scongiurazione or incantation, and what ingredients were used to work the charm. I have given numbers of these real witch-tales in my Etruscan-Roman Remains, and a few, such as Orpheus and Eurydice, Intialo, and Il Moschone, in this work.

Lady Vere de Vere, who has investigated witchcraft as it exists in the Italian Tyrol, in an admirable article in La Rivista of Rome (June 1894)--which article has the only demerit of being too brief--tells us that the Community of Italian Witches is regulated by laws, traditions, and customs of the most secret kind, possessing special recipes for sorcery, which is perfectly true. Having been free of the community for years, I can speak from experience. The more occult and singular of their secrets are naturally not of a nature to be published, any more than are those of the Voodoos. Some of the milder sort may be found in the story of the Moscone, or Great Fly, in this work. The great secret for scholars is, however, that these pagans and heretics, who are the last who cling to a heathen creed out-worn in Europe--these outcast children of the Cainites, Ultra-Taborites, and similar ancient worshippers of the devil, are really the ones who possess the most valuable stores of folk-lore, that is to say, such as illustrate the first origins of the religious Idea, its development, and specially the evolution of the Opposition or Protestant principle.

As regards the many legends in this book which do not illustrate such serious research, it is but natural that witches, who love and live in the Curious, should have preserved more even of them than other people, and it was accordingly among her colleagues of the mystic spell that Maddalena found tales which would have been long sought for elsewhere, of which this book is a most convincing proof in itself; for while I had resolved on second thought to make it one of simple local tales, there still hangs over most--even of these--a dim, unholy air of sorcery, a witch aura, a lurid light, a something eerie and uncanny, a restless hankering for the broom and the supernatural. Those tales are Maddalena's every line--I pray thee, reader, not to make them mine. The spirit will always speak.

Very different, indeed, from these are the contributions of Marietta Pery, the improvvisatrice, though even she in good faith, and not for fun, had a horseshoe for luck; which, however, being of an artistic turn, she had elegantly gilded, and also, like a true Italian, wore an amulet. She, too, knew many fairy tales, but they were chiefly such as may be found among the Racconti delle Fate, and the variants which are now so liberally published. She had, however, a rare, I may almost say a refined, taste in these, as the poems which I have given indicate.

I must also express my obligations to Miss Roma Lister, a lady born in Italy of English parentage, who is an accomplished folk-lorist and collector, as was shown by her paper on the Legends of the Castelli Romani, read at the first meeting of the Italian Folk-Lore Society, founded by Count Angelo de Gubernatis, the learned and accomplished Oriental scholar, and editor of La Rivista. I would here say that her researches in the vicinity of Rome have gone far to corroborate what I published in the Etruscan-Roman Remains. I must also thank Miss Teresa Wyndham for sundry kind assistances, when I was ill in Siena.

There is no city in the world where, within such narrow limit, Art, Nature, and History have done so much to make a place beautiful and interesting as Florence. It is one where we feel that there has been vivid and varied life--life such as was led by Benvenuto Cellini and a thousand like him--and we long more than elsewhere to enter into it, and know how those men in quaint and picturesque garb thought and felt four hundred years ago. Now, as at the present day politics and news do not enter into our habits of thought more than goblins, spirits of fountains and bridges, legends of palaces and towers, and quaint jests of friar or squire, did into those of the olden time, I cannot help believing that this book will be not only entertaining, but useful to all who would study the spirit of history thoroughly. The folk-lore of the future has a far higher mission than has as yet been dreamed for it; it is destined to revive for us the inner sentiment or habitual and peculiar life of man as he was in the olden time more perfectly than it has been achieved by fiction. This will be done by bringing before the reader the facts or phenomena of that life itself in more vivid and familiar form. Admitting this, the reader can hardly fail to see that the writer who gathers up with pains whatever he can collect of such materials as this book contains does at least some slight service to Science.

And to conclude--with the thing to which I would specially call attention--I distinctly state that (as will be very evident to the critical reader) there are in this book, especially in the second series, which I hope to bring out later, certain tales, or anecdotes, or jests, which are either based on a very slight foundation of tradition--often a mere hint--or have been so written up by a runaway pen--and mine is an awful bolter--that the second-rate folk-lorist, whose forte consists not in finding facts but faults, may say in truth, as one of his kind did in America: Mr. Leland is throughout inaccurate. In these numerous instances, which are only folk-lore run wild, as Rip Van Winkle, Sleepy Hollow, and Heine's Gods in Exile are legend, I have, I hope, preserved a certain spirit of truth, though I have sans mercy sacrificed the letter, even as the redcap goblins, which haunt old houses, are said to be the ghosts of infants sacrificed by witches, or slain by their mothers, in order to make folletti or imps of them.

Now as for this reconstructing Hercules from a foot, instead of giving the fragment, at which few would have glanced, the success consists in the skill attained, and the approbation of the reader. And with this frank admission, that in a certain number of these tales the utmost liberty has been taken, I conclude.

CHARLES GODFREY LELAND.

FLORENCE, April 6, 1894.

CONTENTS

PAGE THE THREE HORNS OF MESSER GUICCIARDINI 1 THE PILLS OF THE MEDICI 6 FURICCHIA, OR THE EGG-WOMAN OF THE MERCATO VECCHIO 11 THE LANTERNS OF THE STROZZI PALACE 17 THE GOBLIN OF LA VIA DEL CORNO 21 FRATE GIOCONDO, THE MONK OF SANTA MARIA NOVELLA 26 THE LEGEND OF THE CROCE AL TREBBIO 31 THE TWO FAIRIES OF THE WELL 36 THE STORY OF THE VIA DELLE SERVE SMARRITE 41 THE BRONZE BOAR OF THE MERCATO NUOVO 47 THE FAIRY OF THE CAMPANILE, OR THE TOWER OF GIOTTO 51 THE GOBLIN OF THE TOWER DELLA TRINITA, OR THE PORTA SAN 54 NICCOLO THE GHOST OF MICHEL ANGELO 59 THE APPARITION OF DANTE 62 LEGENDS OF LA CERTOSA 66 LEGENDS OF THE BRIDGES IN FLORENCE 74 THE BASHFUL LOVER 85 LA FORTUNA 87 THE STORY OF THE UNFINISHED PALACE 91 THE DEVIL OF THE MERCATO VECCHIO 98 SEEING THAT ALL WAS RIGHT 107 THE ENCHANTED COW OF LA VIA VACCHERECCIA 109 THE WITCH OF THE PORTA ALLA CROCE 114 THE COLUMN OF COSIMO, OR DELLA SANTA TRINITA 118 LEGENDS OF OR' SAN MICHELE 122 THE WITCH OF THE ARNO 132 STORIES OF SAN MINIATO 141 THE FRAIR'S HEAD OF SANTA MARIA MAGGIORE--THE LADY WHO 149 CONFESSED FOR EVERYBODY--HOLY RELICS BIANCONE, THE GIANT STATUE IN THE SIGNORIA 152 THE RED GOBLIN OF THE BARGELLO 160 LEGENDS OF SAN LORENZO 167 LEGENDS OF THE PIAZZA SAN BIAGIO 174 THE SPIRIT OF THE PORTA SAN GALLO 176 STORY OF THE PODESTA WHO WAS LONG ON HIS JOURNEY 179 LEGENDS OF THE BOBOLI GARDENS: THE OLD GARDENER, AND THE 184 TWO STATUES AND THE FAIRY HOW LA VIA DELLA MOSCA GOT ITS NAME 188 THE ROMAN VASE 194 THE UNFORTUNATE PRIEST 201 THE MYSTERIOUS FIG-TREE 205 IL PALAZZO FERONI 211 LA VIA DELLE BELLE DONNE 219 THE WIZARD WITH RED TEETH 221 ORPHEUS AND EURYDICE 225 INTIALO: THE SPIRIT OF THE HAUNTING SHADOW 237 CAIN AND HIS WORSHIPPERS 254

THE THREE HORNS OF MESSER GUICCIARDINI

More plenty than the fabled horn Thrice emptied could pour forth at banqueting.

--KEATS, The Earlier Version of Hyperion.

Prosperity is often our worst enemy, making us vicious, frivolous, and insolent, so that to bear it well is a better test of a man than to endure adversity.--GICCIARDINI, Maxims, No. 64.

I did not know when I first read and translated the following story, which was obtained for me and written out by Maddalena, that it had any reference to the celebrated historian and moralist, Guicciardini. How I did so forms the subject of a somewhat singular little incident, which I will subsequently relate.

LE TRE CORNE.

"There was an elderly man, a very good, kind-hearted, wise person, who was gentle and gay with every one, and much beloved by his servants, because they always found him buono ed allegro--pleasant and jolly. And often when with them while they were at their work, he would say, 'Felice voi poveri!'--'Oh, how lucky you are to be poor!' And they would reply to him, singing in the old Tuscan fashion, because they knew it pleased him:

"'O caro Signor, you have gold in store, With all to divert yourself; Your bees make honey, you've plenty of money, And victuals upon the shelf: A palace you have, and rich attire, And everything to your heart's desire.'

"Then he would reply merrily:

"'My dear good folk, because you are poor You are my friends, and all the more, For the poor are polite to all they see, And therefore blessed be Poverty!'

"Then a second servant sang:

"'Oh bello gentile mio Signor', Your praise of poverty 'd soon be o'er If you yourself for a time were poor; For nothing to eat, and water to drink, Isn't so nice as you seem to think, And a lord who lives in luxury Don't know the pressure of poverty.'

"Then all would laugh, and the jolly old lord would sing in his turn:

"'O charo servitor', Tu parli tanto bene, Ma il tuo parlar A me non mi conviene.' . . .

'My boy, you answer well, But with false implication; For what to me you tell Has no true application; How oft I heard you say (You know 'tis true, you sinner!) I am half-starved to-day, How I'll enjoy my dinner!" Your hunger gives you health And causes great delight, While I with all my wealth Have not an appetite.'

"Then another servant sang, laughing:

"'Dear master, proverbs say, I have heard them from my birth, That of all frightful beasts Which walk upon the earth, Until we reach the bier, Wherever man may be, There's nothing which we fear So much as poverty.'

"And so one evening as they were merrily improvising and throwing stornelli at one another in this fashion, the Signore went to his street-door, and there beheld three ladies of stately form; for though they were veiled and dressed in the plainest black long robes, it was evident that they were of high rank. Therefore the old lord saluted them courteously, and seeing that they were strangers, asked them whither they were going. But he had first of all had them politely escorted by his servants into his best reception-room. {3a}

"And the one who appeared to be the chief replied:

"'Truly we know not where we shall lodge, for in all Florence there is, I trow, not a soul who, knowing who we are would receive us.'

"'And who art thou, lady?' asked the Signore. And she replied:

"'Io mi chiamo, e sono, La Poverta in persona, E queste due donzelle, Sono le mie sorelle, Chi voi non conoscete La Fame e la Sete!'

"'I am one whom all throw curse on. I am Poverty in person; Of these ladies here, the younger Is my sister, known as Hunger, And the third, who's not the worst, Is dreaded still by all as Thirst.'

"'Blessed be the hour in which ye entered my house!' cried the Signore, delighted. 'Make yourselves at home, rest and be at ease as long as you like--sempre sarei benglieto.'

"'And why are you so well disposed towards me?' inquired Poverty.

"'Because, lady, I am, I trust, sufficiently wise with years and experience to know that everything must not be judged from the surface. Great and good art thou, since but for thee the devil a beggar in the world would ever move a finger to do the least work, and we should all be in mouldy green misery. Well hath it been said that 'Need makes the old woman trot,' {3b} and likewise that Poverta non guasta gentilezza--'Poverty doth not degrade true nobility,' as I can perceive by thy manner, O noble lady. Thou, Poverty, art the mother of Industry, and grandmother of Wealth, Health, and Art; thou makest all men work; but for thee there would be no harvests, yea, all the fine things in the world are due to Want.'

"'And I?' said Dame Hunger. 'Dost thou also love me?'

"'Si, Dio ti benedicha!' replied the Signore. 'La fame ghastiga il ghiotto'--'Hunger corrects gluttony.

"'Hunger causes our delight, For it gives us appetite; For dainties without hunger sent Form a double punishment.'

'Hunger is the best sauce.' Thou makest men bold, for chane affamato non prezza bastone--a hungry dog fears no stick. Thou makest the happiness of every feast.'

"'Ed io, Signore?' said Thirst. 'Hast thou also a good word for me?'

"'A Dio, grazie! God be praised that thou art. For without thee I should have no wine. Nor do men speak in pity of any one when they say in a wine-shop, He is thirsty enough to drink up the Arno. I remember a Venetian who once said, coming to a feast, "I would not take five gold zecchini for this thirst which I now have." And to sum it all up, I find that poverty with want to urge it is better than wealth without power to enjoy, and, taking one with another, the poor are honester and have better hearts than the rich.'

"'Truly thou art great,' replied Poverty. 'Gentile, buono, e galantuomo a parlare--gentle, good, and noble in thy speech. In such wise thou wilt ever be rich, for as thou art rich thou art good and charitable. And thou hast well said that Plenty comes from us, and it is we who truly own the horn of plenty; and therefore take from me this horn as a gift, and while thou livest be as rich as thou art good and wise!'

"'And I,' said Hunger, 'give thee another, and while it is thine thou shalt never want either a good appetite nor the means to gratify it. For thou hast seen the truth that I was not created to starve men to death, but to keep them from starving.'

"'And I,' said Thirst, 'give thee a third horn of plenty; that is, plenty of wine and temperate desire--e buon pro vi faccia. Much good may it do you!'

Saying this they vanished, and he would have thought it all a dream but for the three horns which they left behind them. So he had a long life and a happy, and in gratitude to his benefactresses he placed on his shield three horns, as men may see them to this day.

* * * * *

When I received this legend, I did not know that the three horns on a shield form the coat of arms of Messer Guicciardini, the historian, nor had I ever seen them. It happened by pure chance I went one day with my wife and Miss Roma Lister, who is devoted to folk-lore, to make my first visit to Sir John Edgar at his home, the celebrated old mediaeval palazzo, the Villa Guicciardini, Via Montugli.

On the way we passed the Church of the Annunciata, and while driving by I remarked that there were on its wall, among many shields, several which had on them a single hunting-horn, but that I had never seen three together, but had heard of such a device, and was very anxious to find it, and learn to what family it belonged.

What was my astonishment, on arriving at the villa or palazzo, at beholding on the wall in the court a large shield bearing the three horns. Sir John Edgar informed me that it was the shield of the Guicciardini family, who at one time inhabited the mansion. I related to him the story, and he said, I should think that tale had been invented by some one who knew Guicciardini, the author, very well, for it is perfectly inspired with the spirit of his writings. It depicts the man himself as I have conceived him.

Then we went into the library, where my host showed me Fenton's translation of the History of Guicciardini and his Maxims in Italian, remarking that the one which I have placed as motto to this chapter was in fact an epitome of the whole legend.

I should observe, what did not before occur to me, that the family palace of the Guicciardini is in the Via Guicciardini, nearly opposite to the house of Machiavelli, and that it is there that the fairies probably called, if it was in the winter-time.

THE PILLS OF THE MEDICI

When I upon a time was somewhat ill, Then every man did press on me a cure; And when my wife departed, all of them Came crowding round, commending me a spouse; But now my ass is dead, not one of them Has offered me another--devil a one!--Spanish Jests.

"Tu vai cercando il mal, come fanno i Medici--Thou goest about seeking evil, even as the Medici do, and of thee and of them it may be said, Anagyram commoves."--Italian Proverbs, A.D. 1618.

The higher a tree grows, the more do petty animals burrow into its roots, and displace the dirt to show how it grew in lowly earth; and so it is with great families, who never want for such investigators, as appears by the following tale, which refers to the origin of the Medicis, yet which is withal rather merry than malicious.

D'UNO MEDICO CHE CURAVA GLI ASINI.

"It was long ago--so long, Signore Carlo, that the oldest olive-tree in Tuscany had not been planted, and when wolves sometimes came across the Ponte Vecchio into the town to look into the shop-windows, and ghosts and witches were as common by night as Christians by day, that there was a man in Florence who hated work, and who had observed, early as the age was, that those who laboured the least were the best paid. And he was always repeating to himself:

"'Con arte e con inganno, Si vive mezzo l'anno, Con inganno, e con arte, Si vive l'altra parte.'

"Or in English:

"'With tricks and cleverness, 'tis clear, A man can live six months i' the year, And then with cleverness and tricks He'll live as well the other six.'

"Now having come across a recipe for making pills which were guaranteed to cure everything, he resolved to set up for an universal doctor, and that with nothing but the pills to aid. So he went forth from Florence, wandering from one village to another, selling his pills, curing some people, and getting, as often happens, fame far beyond his deserts, so that the peasants began to believe he could remedy all earthly ills.

"And at last one day a stupid contadino, who had lost his ass, went to the doctor and asked him whether by his art and learning he could recover for him the missing animal. Whereupon the doctor gave him six pills at a quattrino (a farthing) each, and bade him wander forth thinking intently all the time on the delinquent donkey, and, to perfect the spell, to walk in all the devious ways and little travelled tracks, solitary by-paths, and lonely sentieri, ever repeating solemnly, 'Asino mio! asino mio! Tu che amo come un zio!'