Guide to North Carolina's Wineries, A
By Joseph Mills and Danielle Tarmey
()
About this ebook
Since the first edition of A Guide to North Carolina’s Wineries
in 2003, the state’s wineries have nearly tripled in number. Tar Heel grapes are grown in the sand of coastal islands, on mountains so steep that tractors slide down them, and everywhere in between. The winegrowers include scientists, farmers, teachers, computer geeks, and “wine bums.” They make or sell their wine at idyllic country estates, in converted gas stations and barns, and in conjunction with their art galleries and restaurants. Among the newcomers is Richard Childress, as committed to winemaking as he is to his NASCAR teams. In just a few years, Childress Vineyards has assumed its place alongside noted establishments like Biltmore Estate Winery, Shelton Vineyards, and Duplin Winery; Vineyard, which the owner spent years building by hand; Thistle Meadow Winery, where the proprietor would rather teach you how to make your own wine than sell you a bottle of his; and Sanctuary Vineyards, whose owners flood 20 to 30 acres of farmland each winter to welcome thousands of snow geese. The 64 winery profiles in this second edition provide wine lists, directions to the wineries, and contact, schedule, and fee information. They also detail the history of each winery and convey some of the passion of the owners and winemakers.Danielle Tarmey was born in the Bahamas and spent her childhood there. When she was eight, her parents moved back to Europe. The daughter of a British father and a French mother, she has lived throughout Europe, including France, England, Italy, and Switzerland. In the United States, she has lived in both California and North Carolina. She earned her master’s degree in education at Salem College.
Joseph Mills was born and raised in Indiana and has lived in several states, including Illinois, New Mexico, Utah, and California. After earning a Ph.D. in literature at the University of California, Davis, he joined the faculty of the North Carolina School of the Arts in Winston-Salem. In 2017, he received the University of North Carolina Board of Governors Award for Teaching Excellence. He has published six books of poetry; many of his poems have been featured on Garrison Keillor's A Writer's Almanac.
Joseph Mills
Danielle Tarmey was born in the Bahamas and spent her childhood there. When she was eight, her parents moved back to Europe. The daughter of a British father and a French mother, she has lived throughout Europe, including France, England, Italy, and Switzerland. In the United States, she has lived in both California and North Carolina. Danielle speaks French and Italian fluently and has a working knowledge of Spanish. After earning a degree in French and tourism studies at Oxford Brookes University in England, she worked in a variety of jobs in the food-and-wine industry, including positions at a wine shop, a winery, a four-star hotel, and a gourmet coffee shop. She earned her master’s degree in education at Salem College. Joseph Mills was born and raised in Indiana and has lived in several states, including Illinois, New Mexico, Utah, and California. He has worked a variety of jobs ranging from staff manager of a climate research laboratory to secretary of a chemical waste facility (located in the middle of the Utah desert) to baker at a donut shop. After earning a Ph.D. in literature at the University of California, Davis, he joined the faculty of the North Carolina School of the Arts in Winston-Salem. In 2017, he received the University of North Carolina Board of Governors Award for Teaching Excellence. He has published 6 books of poetry; many of his poems have been featured on Garrison Keillor's A Writer's Almanac. Joe and Danielle met in 1995 while they were both teaching in Bordeaux, France, as part of exchange programs with their respective universities. After spending the year together working and traveling, they decided to marry. They legally married in Las Vegas during a camping trip. Six months later, they also held an outdoor wedding, presided over by Joe’s brother, Scott, who is an ordained minister.
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Guide to North Carolina's Wineries, A - Joseph Mills
Wineries of Western North Carolina
Banner Elk Winery
135 DEER RUN LANE
BANNER ELK, N.C. 28604
PHONE: 828-898-9090
WEBSITE: WWW.BANNERELKWINERY.COM
E-MAIL: [email protected]
HOURS: WEDNESDAY–SUNDAY, NOON–6 P.M.
OWNERS: RICHARD WOLFE AND ANGELO ACCETTURO
WINEMAKER: RICHARD WOLFE
FIRST YEAR AS BONDED WINERY: 2006
TASTING FEE: YES
ON-LINE ORDERING: NO
WINE CLUB: NO
WINE LIST
WHITES: BANNER ELK WHITE, SEYVAL BLANC, WHITE WOLF (GOLDEN MUSCAT)
REDS: BANNER ELK RED, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, VILLARD NOIR
FRUIT: BLUEBERRY
DIRECTIONS: FROM BOONE, TAKE U.S. 221 TO N.C. 105, THEN FOLLOW N.C. 105 TO N.C. 184 AT TYNECASTLE. TURN RIGHT ON N.C. 184 AND GO APPROXIMATELY 4 MILES TO BANNER ELK. TURN RIGHT ONTO N.C. 194 AND GO 1.5 MILES. TURN LEFT ON GUALTNEY ROAD. THE WINERY IS ON THE RIGHT AFTER 0.5 MILE.
In Richard Wolfe’s vision for North Carolina’s High Country, he sees mountainsides full of grapes. Comparing the elevation around Boone to wine-producing regions in the European Alps, he insists, This area can be covered with vineyards all around here.
Not only is it possible, but according to Richard, it makes good economic sense, particularly for farmers who are searching for alternative crops to tobacco and fir trees.
Although Richard, who has degrees in chemical and nuclear engineering, spent his career in the energy industry, his passion has always been wine. He says, I’ve been making wine as a hobby all my life. I doubt there’s been a year in 50 that I haven’t made wine.
His father was in the coal-mining business near Beckley, West Virginia, and Richard grew up among the Italians who worked the coal fields. In their free time, they tended vines, made wines, and showed him how to do both. He laughs that this winemaking ability made him popular in college. Years later, in the 1990s, it also led him to establish Wolf Creek Vineyards in Abingdon, Virginia.
Believing that the North Carolina mountains 50 miles away from Abingdon had untapped potential as a viticultural area, Richard approached Appalachian State University in 2001 about starting a program to help teach local farmers how to grow grapes. Intrigued by the idea, ASU hired Richard to be the director of the program of Applied Science and Research and began establishing test vineyards.
According to Richard, viticulture at higher elevations requires different choices than those made in the flatlands. Plantings must always be done on slopes with as much southern exposure as possible, and only some varietals, such as French-American hybrids, can withstand the cold temperatures. However, he insists that we have advantages here.
The area doesn’t have the same disease issues as other parts of the state, and Richard also believes the climate makes for more flavorful, fruitier grapes.
Richard also began developing Banner Elk Winery because, as he notes, if you’re going to teach farmers to grow grapes, they need a place to sell them.
Featuring a spacious tasting room including a bar that came from the historic Banner Elk Hotel, the 6,000-square-foot winery has a production capacity of 10,000 cases a year. Although he will continue to use fruit from Wolf Creek Vineyards and may eventually expand Banner Elk’s vineyards to three acres, he hopes to buy mainly from local growers. His wife, Dede Walton, notes, Farmers keep coming to the winery to talk with Dick about planting grapes.
Like her husband, Dede believes that our local farmers have land available, they understand the opportunities provided by new crops, and they are interested in being a part of this new venture.
Banner Elk Winery is part of a $3 million complex called the Villa at Blueberry Farm. The villa, which is run by Dede, contains eight bedrooms, 10 baths, and a full kitchen. The complex’s size and amenities make it appealing for those who want to hold special events. In just the first 12 months after its June 2006 opening, Banner Elk Winery and the villa hosted 15 weddings, several corporate functions, and a photo shoot for a national retail clothing store.
The estate grounds have a putting green and a trout pond, but most importantly, the property includes 15 acres of 20-year-old blueberries. Richard believes the maturity of this fruit will result in superb wines. In fact, when the winery opened, the first blueberry wine he made sold out in two weeks.
Richard has other products in development that will help distinguish Banner Elk Winery. Because of the elevation, he believes we’ll be one of the first wineries in the state that will have the chance to make an ice wine.
He also intends to make a blueberry port; he has planted thornless blackberries; and he has received a permit from the state to have a distillery. He notes with satisfaction, We have the opportunity to do a lot of exciting things here.
Richard believes Banner Elk’s growth will be dictated by the response of the tourists,
but since this is the hottest corner for tourist growth in the state,
he is very optimistic. Of course, the winery’s future also depends on the development of the area’s vineyards, and Richard is confident about that as well. He believes the High Country will become an important part of the state’s wine industry. He insists, The quality of the grapes we’re growing here is going to be superb.
Biltmore Estate Winery
ONE NORTH PACK SQUARE
ASHEVILLE, N.C. 28801
PHONE: 800-543-2961 OR 828-274-6333
WEBSITE: WWW.BILTMORE.COM
E-MAIL: [email protected]
HOURS: MONDAY–SATURDAY,
11 A.M.–7 P.M.; SUNDAY, NOON–7 P.M.
OWNER: THE BILTMORE COMPANY
WINEMAKER: BERNARD DELILLE
FIRST YEAR AS BONDED WINERY: 1977
TASTING FEE: ACCESS TO THE WINERY IS LIMITED TO THOSE WHO BUY TICKETS TO BILTMORE ESTATE. ONCE GUESTS ARE INSIDE THE WINERY, THE TASTING OF ESTATE WINES IS FREE. THERE IS A FEE TO TASTE PREMIUM WINES.
ON-LINE ORDERING: YES
WINE CLUB: YES
WINE LIST
WHITES: CENTURY WHITE (RIESLING, GEWURZTRAMINER, MUSCAT CANELLI, MALVESIA, AND CHENIN BLANC), CHARDONNAY, CHARDONNAY SUR LIES, CHENIN BLANC, HOUSE WHITE (CHENIN BLANC AND CHARDONNAY), PINOT GRIGIO, RIESLING, SAUVIGNON BLANC, 75TH ANNIVERSARY WHITE (VIOGNIER, ROUSANNE, SAUVIGNON BLANC, AND CHARDONNAY), VIOGNIER
BLUSHES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON BLANC DE NOIR, GRENACHE ROSÉ, ZINFANDEL BLANC DE NOIR
REDS: CABERNET FRANC, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, CARDINAL’S CREST (CABERNET FRANC, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MERLOT, PINOT NOIR, PETITE SIRAH, SYRAH, AND MOURVEDRE), CENTURY RED (SANGIOVESE, ZINFANDEL, MERLOT, SYRAH, AND MALBEC), CLARET (CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MERLOT, CABERNET FRANC, AND SYRAH), MERLOT, PINOT NOIR, SANGIOVESE, SYRAH, ZINFANDEL
SPECIALTIES: BRUT, METHODE CHAMPENOISE BLANC DE BLANC (BRUT AND SEC), METHODE CHAMPENOISE BLANC DE NOIR (BRUT AND SEC), PAS DE DEUX (MUSCAT CANELLI AND RIESLING)
DIRECTIONS: THE WINERY IS ON THE GROUNDS OF BILTMORE ESTATE IN ASHEVILLE. TAKE INTERSTATE 40 TO EXIT 50A. GO NORTH ON U.S. 25 FOR 2 BLOCKS TO THE ESTATE ENTRANCE.
When George Washington Vanderbilt visited Asheville in 1888, he liked the area so much that he decided to build a home there. Its 250 rooms—including 33 bedrooms and 43 bathrooms—make Biltmore the largest private residence in America. Designed by Richard Morris Hunt, the French-style château required hundreds of builders and artisans. Construction lasted from 1890 to 1895. The estate’s grounds, which originally covered 125,000 acres, were equally impressive. They included a timber farm, a dairy farm, and 250 acres of formal and natural gardens created by landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted, the designer of New York’s Central Park.
Since the estate was designed to be self-sufficient, George Vanderbilt’s grandson, William Amherst Vanderbilt Cecil, decided in 1971 that vineyards would be a suitable addition. As an experiment, a few acres of vines, including French-American hybrids such as Marechal Foch, were planted. In 1977, when it became clear that grapes could be grown here, the estate increased its plantings, established a bonded winery, and hired Philippe Jourdain as a winemaking consultant. He later served as winemaker. In the following decade, the dairy barn, one of the estate’s original buildings, was renovated to make a 90,000-square-foot stateof-the-art winery. This commitment of resources has paid off. In the last 30 years, Biltmore wines have won hundreds of awards in national and international competitions.
When Jourdain retired in 1995, Bernard DeLille became wine master. DeLille insists, however, that considering a single person responsible for a wine is a mistake. He points out that in France, people don’t know the names of winemakers. Instead, they know the names of owners or estates. What is good in winemaking is that it’s not the work of one person, it’s teamwork from the vineyards on,
he says.
One crucial member of the Biltmore team
is vineyard manager Dennis Wynne, who joined the estate after finishing his horticulture degree in 1981. Wynne has seen the vineyards go through a number of changes. When he arrived, there were 50 acres of vines. In the next few years, the estate not only doubled its plantings but built a 40-acre lake to irrigate them. At its largest, the vineyards encompassed 140 acres, but it became clear that some varietals, particularly thin-skinned white grapes, simply don’t grow well in the Blue Ridge environment. Consequently, a process of contraction and regrouping took place. For example, the vineyards once included 35 acres of Sauvignon Blanc but now have none. The estate also greatly reduced its Reisling acreage.
Thanks to his more than 20 years of experience, Wynne has become an expert on the problems of growing grapes in the area. Geese, deer, and other wildlife destroy a certain percentage of each crop, but the vineyards’ biggest enemy is fungus. The area usually gets a great deal of rain. If we get thunderstorms in the afternoons, the vines will stay wet all night, and then we’ll have fog in the morning,
Wynne explains. Sometimes, they can be wet 24 hours.
Such weather makes the vines so susceptible to rot that regular spraying is crucial. Wynne insists, We’re trying to use everything as safely as we can. We’ve gotten sprays that are safer and safer.
It’s a matter of personal concern for him and his crew. After all, he points out, we work here, and we want to be here 20 and 30 more years.
Although visitors to Biltmore Estate Winery aren’t able to see its vineyards, which are located away from the estate, there is plenty to do. A self-guided visit includes a video presentation and a great deal of information about wine, the winery, and the estate. At various points on the route, windows offer views of the winery’s working areas, such as the barrel room and the champagne room. After guests go through the enormous tasting room, where they can sample estate wines, the visit ends at a gift shop that sells wines, gourmet food, Biltmore souvenirs, and other products. One area of the shop is devoted to cooking displays by chefs from Biltmore’s restaurants. If visitors are hungry, they can picnic at one of the covered tables outside or eat at the next-door bistro.
Biltmore Estate Winery has established three labels: Biltmore Estate Wines, Biltmore Estate Château Reserves, and George Washington Vanderbilt Premium Vintages. The winery has been expanded several times and now has a tank capacity of 250,000 gallons. Because it produces over 100,000 cases a year, it buys a large quantity of grapes in addition to using the harvests from its own vineyards. Although it has usually relied on California fruit, the winery has begun working more with regional growers as vinifera plantings in the Southeast have increased. In fact, DeLille believes that in North Carolina, "we have the soil to make some wines with great