Coast: Recipes from Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way

© Maja Smend

Recently I hit the road and went on a culinary trip from my home county of Cork all the way up to the green, untamed headlands of Donegal. Along the way I visited major coastal villages and towns, meeting local food producers and cooks, sampling their sensational produce, watching them at work and tasting their delicious recipes. It was an inspirational odyssey, and an adventure unlike anything I have ever undertaken before.

Here, I want to share with you all the influences and impressions from my trip: my favourite places to stay off the beaten track, the incredible stories I heard from the fishermen and farmers that I encountered, and the breadth of local produce – from honey and cheeses to gins and whiskeys – that, of course, I just had to sample along the way!

I may be biased, but I believe that Ireland’s Atlantic coast has some of the most beautiful scenery in the world, and a wonderfully rich food heritage to match. There were years, even decades, when Ireland was branded a nation of potato and cabbage eaters, but we have overturned that opinion and now stand proud of the fabulous dishes that have been created here for generations, knowing that when it is cooked with a delicate touch, our traditional and contemporary food is hard to beat. Particularly so when it is cooked here in Ireland from our own home-grown produce.

And we have some of the best produce in the world. When it’s prepared simply and without unnecessary embellishments, it’s absolutely second to none; we have sheep that can roam free, cattle that get to eat perfectly green grass and wild flowers all year round, coastal walks and woodlands scented with the aroma of wild garlic, watercress that is there for the foraging, and seafood that's sweet and delicate because of our bitingly cold fresh waters.

Our distilleries produce not just the fabulous whiskeys for which Ireland is famed, but as you will discover through my journey, fabulously flavoured gins, not to mention the legendary beers our brewers make. Our sheep and cattle provide us with milk for delicious artisan cheeses with traditional flavours, but Ireland is also at the cutting edge of food production, with Mediterranean-style cheeses being produced from buffalo’s and goat’s milk.

Farmers’ markets are thriving all over Ireland, selling produce that is lovingly and patiently cultivated, created and prepared for sale. A stroll through one of these markets is a feast for the senses and the sheer range of delicious home-produced food will astound you.

This journey has reminded me how much I love Ireland, my beautiful Emerald Isle. I adore tasting all of the different foods each corner of the world has to offer, but no matter where I travel across the globe, it is the flavours and aromas of fresh, seasonal, simple Irish cooking that makes me feel most at home.

Coast is filled with stunning photography of the people and places that I visited in my travel, giving you snapshots of the beauty of this wild, natural landscape, and hopefully a sense of my Ireland – a country of traditions and modern practices that sit in harmony, creating a unique approach to food. Of course, I couldn’t complete my journey without sharing with you some of the recipes that were inspired by my experiences, so here are a whole host of authentic and simple recipes. From Salmon pâté and Pan-fried fish with watercress butter, to Irish gingerbread and Gin, lemon and milk ice cream, these are simple dishes made with the freshest ingredients – fuss-free and yet packed full of flavour.

Coast is a book from my heart – my Ireland, my food, my passions all rolled into one. I hope you enjoy it as much as I’ve enjoyed the journey to create it.

Rachel

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Bartholomew’s Pocket Atlas of Ireland, 1887 © Collins Bartholomew Ltd.

Poring over the map of Ireland that is laid out in front of me, I can feel rising excitement about the trip I’m about to embark on. I have just twelve days in which to explore the best of the wild Atlantic coast – from my home at Ballymaloe right around the latticed western coastline, venturing as far as Inishowen in County Donegal.

Along the way I know I’ll experience some of the breathtaking scenic highlights of Ireland ’s countryside, visit some of the country’s most historic sites and meet with inspiring restaurateurs and food producers who will no doubt be eager to share their food and their passion for cooking with me. This is an area that revels in its abundant local, seasonal ingredients – from the sea and the land.

But all journeys start with a first step (and no small amount of preparation), so to get my road legs in order I need to do a little exploring around my own area first. I’ve decided on a trip up the gorgeous Blackwater Valley through County Cork. But before I get going, of course, I need to pack a few provisions!

Close to my home in Midleton there is a great farmers’ market that I often visit on Saturday mornings, where table after table groans with delicious breads, freshly picked fruit and veg, jewel-like bottles of jams and pickles glinting in the sun. I love chatting to the stallholders there about what they produce, and how they produce it – their passion for their products is clear to see and rubs off on me. As ever, the stalls offer tantalising selections of some of the very best produce from all over the region. Stumped by the array of delicious foods, I steel myself to choose just a few treats and finally pick up delicious local cheeses, bread and pickles that I know will make the per fect picnic. The leftovers make really indulgent cheese toasts on my Irish onion soup, but I buy extra, too, because the array inspires me to create my Bread, wine and cheese gratin.

Drink is as important to Midleton as its food. It is home to the largest distillery complex in the country, right next to the Old Midleton Distillery that was established here in the early 17th century. They make seven different types of whiskey here, from Jameson (the best-selling Irish whiskey in the world) to Midleton Very Rare, which is always a nice bottle to give as a present. Of course, that’s not one I’d use for cooking with – it’s a bit special. I was also introduced to Yellow Spot from this distillery, which is the 12-year version of the Green Spot whiskey. It’s aged in Malaga barrels and it’s one of the nicest whiskies I’ve ever tasted … I know what I’ll be celebrating the end of the trip with! I sample a few other whiskies, and when I’m back at home later from my trip I remember the flavours lingering on my palate and know that I need to create something to pair with. One of the less expensive whiskies, therefore, becomes the base to my Quick chocolate mousse, adding a lovely warm kick to this delicious pudding.

By now I’m getting peckish and I pop over to the Ballymaloe Cookery School where my brother-in-law Philip has a restaurant (on Saturdays only) called ‘Saturday Pizzas’ where he cooks the best pizzas in the wood-burning oven. There’s always a margarita and a pepperoni pizza on the menu, next to whatever seasonal pizza specials he has on for the day. Most of the produce comes from the farm and one of my absolute favourites is the slow-cooked pork pizza with aioli and kale.

Just south of Ballymaloe is the coastal village of Ballycotton; sitting on the grassy cliffs overlooking the brilliant blue sea stretching out into the distance is one of the most relaxing things to do on a summer’s day, and there’s also a good chance I’ll spot a fishing boat or two on the horizon, bringing in fresh catch for local markets and export, too. Fish makes up a large proportion of the recipes in this book; we are really fortunate where we live that we have access to a large range of delicious fish and seafood fresh from the Atlantic. There is nothing better than eating fish that smells of the sea, having left it only a few hours since. The flavours are truly exceptional.

But linger I can’t, so it’s back on my travels again. This time I head about 20km to the east of Ballymaloe, to the busy port town of Youghal, known for its two lovely Blue Flag beaches (Claycastle and Front Strand). It is also the mouth of the Blackwater River, a scenic and historic body of water that generally exists beneath the tourist radar. To get my journey going, I board the Maeve, a half-decker fishing boat captained by Tony Gallagher and his first mate, a terrier called Pharaoh, for a 90-minute tour of the river. This slow passage meanders 8km upwater, allowing me a sneak peek at the beautiful grand houses and gardens that line the back, and ends at the dramatic ruins of Templemichael Castle.

This is where the boat trip culminates, but I want to go further up the Blackwater Valley, so bidding goodbye to Tony and Pharaoh I get back on land and transfer to my car (which has been magically transported upriver by a loving family member!). Esconced at the wheel, I’m off northward, skirting the eastern bank of the river.

At the bend of the river, with the Blackwater Valley stretch ing out to the west, I stop in the market town Cappoquin, which nestles between the stunning landscapes of the river and the heather-clad Knockmealdown Mountains. The big attraction here is the striking Georgian Cappoquin House and Gardens, but the town is also a popular spot for anglers, as the river is rich in beautiful fresh salmon and trout. You cannot leave here without dreaming of fish! This town makes me want to cook my recipes for Poached salmon with hollandaise sauce and Poached grey sea mullet with coriander vinaigrette. I discover that the local tackle shop, Titelines, will sell me the licence I need if I want to try to catch some fish, but I realise that my dreams of such a catch are unlikely to be fulfilled by me with a rod!

On the edge of the town I discover the Blackwater Distillery, Ireland’s first craft whiskey distillery. Although I’m always on the lookout for another new whiskey – whether in the hand or in a recipe! – what’s of interest to me here is that they’ve recently launched their very first gin – Blackwater No. 5, a classic London dry gin that uses local botanicals and the soft Blackwater water. The fresh flavours from my essential sampling later inspire me to use a little of it in my aromatic Gin, lemon and milk ice cream.

DETOUR: THE TANNERY, DUNGARVAN

I find myself making a little diversion from my northward route. Although it’s a little out of my way, I just have to visit one of my favourite spots in the region – Paul Flynn’s Tannery restaurant in the port town of Dungarvan. Housed in a converted leather tannery (hence the name), Paul creates consistently fine dishes using local ingredients such as fresh fish and meats and plenty of fruit, veg and herbs – much of it coming from his own abundant organic gardens. Mouthwatering treats such as ceviche of scallops and fennel and braised rose veal belly with salt-baked carrots and courgettes tempt me to linger, not to mention the chocolate and rosemary pot with olive oil cream and blackcurrant veil. Paul’s ever-changing menu based on local seasonal produce has helped earn him a reputation as one of the best chefs in Ireland; his clever combining of ingredients creates something surprising and special, and inspires me to think about new pairings of the ingredients I am sampling on my trip. He also runs a cookery school in a gorgeous town house around the corner where you can stay and learn how to use seasonal ingredients in delicious and innovative ways. Sated and revitalised after a marvellous lunch, I reluctantly tear myself away and head back to Cappoquin to continue on with my journey.

About 6km north of Cappoquin I pass the Mount Melleray Cistercian Abbey . If ever I’m feeling in need of a little quiet contemplation, a trip to this beautiful abbey is always a beneficial experience. As I arrive the afternoon sun bathes the ancient building in a beautiful glow, highlighting it against the rolling Irish countryside, picking it out from the s urrounding fields. It is a calming and holy place, and the two dozen or so Trappist monks that live there are always keen to welcome visitors looking for a little meditative time. They have even laid out a lovely tearoom in the cloisters, too, which serves delicious homemade soups and cakes. The rustic simplicity of the food echoes the lifestyle of the monks and I imagine how pleasant a life it must be to live such a simple life of contemplation and prayer, and to grow and cook with ingredients produced within the abbey walls.

There’s no time for tea today, though. I make my way westward through Lismore, where its magnificent castle provides the perfect excuse to stop and stretch my legs. I have a nice amble through the ornate formal gardens, beautifully clipped and perfectly placed under the medieval stone walls of the castle. There is no time to venture further into the remainder of the eight acres of gardens that are bursting into bloom, but of course I had to stroll along the famous, elegant yew walk – thought to be the spot on which Edmund Spenser wrote The Faerie Queene in 1590 . On Sundays, Castle Avenue hosts a superb farmers’ market in the castle grounds, populated by producers from all over the region selling their wares – it’s a proper gourmet treat. The stalls offer up a beautiful array of local fresh fish, vegetables and fruit, as well as beautiful breads and home-baked pies. Bring a rug, settle down beneath the castle walls or on the banks of the river with your bounty and you have everything you need for the perfect picnic!

Refreshed by my scenic stroll, it’s o nwards to Ballyduff, where another opportunity for salmon fishing presents itself. The village is perfectly positioned so that you can fish while taking in the glorious views of the river and woodlands beyond. The Ballyduff Bridge is the prime place – a fishing beat that’s almost a mile long, has a wide variety of water and is especially good for fly fishing. Local experts such as Ballyduff Bridge Salmon Fishery and ghillies Len Tomlinson and Connie Corcoran offer provide expert tuition and advice on how best to catch salmon for those new to the sport. I think I am one who would need their help!

As the sun begins to set I reach my final destination for my first day on this journey. Heading south-west from Ballyduff I reach Ballyvolane House, a gracious Georgian mansion expertly run by Justin and Jenny Green. As I approach the house, immediately I feel relaxed after my day of driving. Everything about this place is idyllic, from the beautifully finished rooms to the wonderful gardens and – the food. This really is a foodie paradise: everything that appears on plates in the restaurant is sourced from the estate and local artisan producers – rare-breed pigs are reared on site, beef and lamb come from nearby Lismore, fish fresh from Cork and home-produced artisan cheeses from Cork, Waterford and Tipperary. The vegetables and fruit are all freshly picked from Ballyvolane’s walled garden, straight from plot to plate. The four-course menu for dinner sends me to bed satisfied and content, having experienced a culinary tour of Cork and its environs in just one meal.

© Maja Smend

© Maja Smend