Frommer's EasyGuide to Puerto Rico

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The Best of Puerto Rico

It’s only the size of Connecticut, but Puerto Rico pulsates with more life than any other island in the Caribbean. Whether it’s the beat of bomba y plena, salsa, or reggaeton, there’s a party going on here 24/ 7.The 3.8 million people who live here have perfected the art of having fun on their dazzling island, and visitors are free to join right in. Puerto Ricans love their island and take pride in showing off its charms, which makes them among the world’s great hosts. Especially on weekends, there seems to be something going on just about everywhere—whether it’s an art fair in Old San Juan, a pig roast in the rural mountain area outside town, or a volleyball competition or free concert on the beach in Isla Verde. More so than on any other island, visitors are more likely to rub elbows with locals in Puerto Rico because so many of them are out enjoying themselves. For island hotels and restaurants, local residents are an important and loyal part of their clientele.

Puerto Rico is blessed with towering mountains, rainforests, white sandy beaches along Caribbean shores, and a vibrant culture forged from a mix of Caribbean, Hispanic, African, and U.S. influences. Culture vultures will find a wealth of historic buildings and monuments, many of them dating back some 500 years to the Spanish conquistadors. There are three world-class museums and a thriving gallery scene in San Juan. The city is more intimate but just as exciting as Miami or Las Vegas, and the sophisticated fashion sense of the city and its inhabitants will genuinely impress visitors. San Juan’s nightlife, dining scene, casinos, and live-performance calendar are just as noteworthy. Add some of the best golf and tennis in the West Indies, posh beach resorts, tranquil and offbeat inns and guesthouses, and you’ve got a formidable attraction.

Good service, once notoriously lacking in Puerto Rico, has been improving for several years now. You’ll still find both not-so-benign neglect and outright gruff service, but the majority of hotel and restaurant employees are absolutely delightful these days.

Puerto Rico is a crowded island, which makes for some traffic congestion, especially during the morning and afternoon rush hours, but visitors won’t really notice except during holiday weekends. There are country and coastal retreats where visitors can escape the masses, but you are never too far away from anybody in Puerto Rico.

Tourists are generally safe, and crime in a tourist district is rare. But homeless drug addicts and mentally ill beggars are a common sight in San Juan. There are some unfortunate problems with littering and treatment of animals—but great strides in these areas are being made. Most of Puerto Rico’s crime and social problems remain largely invisible to tourists.

A clue to the Puerto Rican soul is reflected in the national anthem, La Borinqueña, which describes the island as a flowering garden of exquisite magic . . . the daughter of the sea and the sun. Get to know this garden and the people who call it home.

The most authentic Puerto Rico Experiences

Exploring Old San Juan: The city’s restored historic district is one of the best living examples of Spanish colonial architecture in the Americas, and the area is chock-full of oceanfront fortresses, Gothic cathedrals, turn-of-the-century residences, and smart Art Deco commercial buildings. Several plazas feature gorgeous statues and streaming fountains, and there are gorgeous oceanfront and bayside promenades. Yet, Old San Juan is very contemporary, with avant-garde cuisine, art, and performances emanating from its restaurants, galleries, and clubs.

Hanging Out in Santurce: San Juan’s downtown, the place to shop and bop, had its heyday in the 1950s, but has been on a steady rise in the last several years. The area is home to important cultural institutions, like the Luis A. Ferré Performing Arts Center and the Puerto Rico Art Museum, and a growing number of new restaurants, cafes, and shops has brought renewed energy. To immerse yourself in the scene, visit the museum, then have a cheap and tasty lunch at one of the fondas along Avenida Ponce de León and its side streets. Another option is to head to Plaza del Mercado, with a festive tropical fruit and merchandise market, and then spend time at the restaurants and bars surrounding it. You’ll meet more locals than visitors.

Joining in a Local Festival: Regardless of when you’re visiting Puerto Rico, chances are there’s a Fiestas Patronales taking place in one of the island’s 78 towns. Each town’s government throws an annual weeklong celebration of food, music, fun, and games that rage on for several nights; town halls have been won and lost over the quality of the annual parties. Long ripped from their religious origins, the annual festivals may be named after their town’s patron saint, but the main features are free live-music performances by top salsa and local performers, rides and games for the kids, and food and drink kiosks for the entire family. There are other festivals, like the annual Flower Festival in Aibonito and the annual Coffee Festival in Maricao. A requisite at all big festivals is an area for island artisans, with the finest in Puerto Rico traveling across the island to show their wares.

Taking a Sunday Drive: Wherever you go in Puerto Rico, you’ll find people driving around for fun on Sunday afternoons, from the oceanside boulevard of Old San Juan to the bayside drive in the western city of Mayaguez. It could be along the coastal Piñones road, lined by wooden shacks selling fresh coconut milk, fried codfish fritters, and fish kebabs, to the El Yunque rainforest, or south from San Juan to the mountain lechoneras of Cayey serving roast pork, blood sausage, and other hearty jibaro fare, or the wooden seafood restaurants fronting the water in the south coast town of Santa Isabel. If you have the right attitude, you will have a glorious afternoon. You won’t get anywhere quickly, but there’s no reason at all that you should want to.

Getting Friendly with Locals: Viernes Social (Social Fridays) is an island-wide tradition of schmoozing, drinking, dancing, and eating after work on Friday that is faithfully adhered to by workers across the social strata and from Mayaguez to Humacao, and San Juan to Ponce. Regardless of where you are, a neighborhood gas station or an open air comida criolla cafe, chances are it will have turned into a lively mix of laughter and story telling, dancing and flirting if it’s anytime after 4pm on Friday afternoon. Make sure you go out for sundown cocktails on Fridays if you want to mix it up with the locals, which is always a good idea in Puerto Rico.

Sipping a Piña Colada: After a day on the beach, make sure you spend at least one afternoon enjoying a piña colada or two. A refreshingly sweet mix of coconut, pineapple, and rum, thought to have been invented at San Juan’s Caribe Hilton, a piña colada is one of the finest libations you will likely try anywhere, especially after lots of fun and sun on the beach.

The best of the Outdoors

Hiking & Bird-Watching at El Yunque: Thirty minutes by road east of San Juan in the Luquillo Mountains and protected by the U.S. Forest Service, El Yunque is Puerto Rico’s greatest natural attraction. It sprawls across 28,000 acres (1,133 hectares) of the rugged Sierra de Luquillo mountain range, and contains some 240 species (26 endemic) of trees and plants and 50 bird species, including the rare Puerto Rican parrot (scientific name: Amazonavitatta). Visitors can walk one of the dozens of trails that wind past waterfalls, while the island’s colorful parrots fly overhead the song of Puerto Rico’s coquí, a small tree frog, fills the air. See El Yunque, in chapter 6.

Descending into the Río Camuy Caves: Some 21⁄2 hours west of San Juan, visitors board a tram to descend into this forest-filled sinkhole at the mouth of the Clara Cave. They walk the footpaths of a 170-foot-high (52m) cave to a deeper sinkhole. Once they’re inside, a 45-minute tour helps everyone, including kids, learn to differentiate stalactites from stalagmites. At the Pueblos sinkhole, a platform overlooks the Camuy River, passing through a network of cave tunnels. See Arecibo & Camuy, in chapter 6.

Take in the View at Las Cabezas de San Juan Nature Reserve: This 316-acre (128-hectare) nature reserve about 45 minutes from San Juan encompasses seven different ecological systems, including forestland, mangroves, lagoons, beaches, cliffs, and offshore coral reefs. Tours led by park staff end with a climb to the top of the still-working 19th-century lighthouse for views over Puerto Rico’s eastern coast and nearby Caribbean islands. One of the finest phosphorescent bays in the world is located here; take a nighttime boat tour to experience the glow firsthand. See the box, To the Lighthouse: Exploring Las Cabezas de San Juan Nature Reserve, in chapter 9.

Guánica State Forest: At the opposite extreme of El Yunque’s lush and wet rainforest, Guánica State Forest’s climate is dry and arid, the Arizona-like landscape riddled with cacti. The area, cut off from the Cordillera Central mountain range, gets little rainfall. Yet it’s home to some 50 percent of all the island’s terrestrial bird species, including the rare Puerto Rican nightjar, once thought to be extinct. The forest has 36 miles (58km) of trails winding through four forest types, all available for hiker’s to explore. See chapter 7.

Mona Island: Off the western coast of Puerto Rico, the Galápagos of Puerto Rico is home to unique wildlife such as giant iguanas and three species of endangered sea turtles. Some 20 endangered animals also have been spotted here. Eco-tourists like to hike among Mona’s mangrove forests, cliffs, and complex honeycomb of caves; hikers can camp at Mona for a modest fee, but they will also have to hire transportation to and from the island. See the box, Mona Island: The Galápagos of Puerto Rico, in chapter 8.

The best Beaches

White sandy beaches and idyllic offshore islands are what put Puerto Rico on tourist maps in the first place. The best beaches are labeled on the Eastern Puerto Rico map, on p. 192.

Best for Singles (Straight & Gay): Sandwiched between Condado and Isla Verde along San Juan’s coast, Ocean Park is a wide beach fronting a residential neighborhood of beautiful homes. A top spot for swimming and kite surfing, the beach is also a favorite for young and beautiful sanjuaneros to congregate, especially on weekends. Knowledgeable tourists also seek out Ocean Park’s guesthouses that cater to young urban professionals from the East Coast, both gay and straight. There definitely is a South Beach/Río vibe here, but it’s decidedly more low-key and Caribbean. See Diving, Fishing, Tennis & Other Outdoor Pursuits, in chapter 5.

Best Beach for Families: Luquillo Beach, 30 miles (48km) east of San Juan, has better sands and clearer waters than most in San Juan. The vast sandy beach opens onto a crescent-shaped bay edged by a coconut grove. Coral reefs protect the crystal-clear lagoon from the often rough Atlantic waters that can buffet the northern coast, making Luquillo a good place for young children to swim. Much photographed because of its white sands, Luquillo also has picnic areas with changing rooms, lockers, and showers. See Luquillo Beach, in chapter 6.

Best for Swimming: Pine Grove Beach, which stretches between the Ritz-Carlton and the Marriott Courtyard at the end of Isla Verde near the airport, is a crescent, white-sand beach, whose tranquil, blue waters are protected by an offshore reef from the often rough Atlantic current. By the Ritz-Carlton and the Casa Cuba social club to the west, the water is completely sheltered, and a long sandbar means shallow water stretches a long way offshore. Here the waves are well formed but never too big, which makes it a perfect spot to swim and learn to surf. See p. 101.

Best for Scenery: In the southwestern corner of Puerto Rico, Boquerón Beach and its surrounding neighborhoods bring to mind a tropical Cape Cod. The beach town of Boquerón itself, stands along the coast just beside the beach running along a 3-mile (4.8km) bay, with palm-fringed white sand curving away on both sides. The water is always tranquil, making it perfect for families and swimming. There’s fine snorkeling, sailing, and fishing as well. See The Southwest Coast, in chapter 7.

Best for Surfing: Puerto Rico’s northwest coast is generally regarded as one of the best surf spots across the globe and it draws surfers from around the world. Rincón is the center of the island surf scene, which also extends to neighboring Isabela and Aguadilla. Dubbed the Caribbean Pipeline, winter waves here can approach 20 feet (6.1m) in height, equaling the force of the surf on Oahu’s north shore. See Rincón, in chapter 8.

Best for Windsurfing: Puerto Rico is filled with great places for windsurfing and, increasingly, kite surfing. San Juan itself is a windsurfer’s haven, and you’ll see them off the coast from Pine Grove beach near the airport all the way west to where Ocean Park runs into Condado at Parquedel Indio. Punta Las Marías, between Ocean Park and Isla Verde, is another center of activity. See chapter 5.

Best for Snorkeling: The islands of Vieques and Culebra have great snorkeling. Culebra’s most popular beach, Flamenco, is picture perfect and has very good snorkeling, and just a 20-minute hike from its parking lot leads to the Playa Tamarindo and Playa Carlos Rosario, beaches enveloped by a barrier reef; a quarter-mile (.4km) to the south is a spot called The Wall, which has 40-foot (12m) drop-offs and rainbow-hued fish. See p. 221.

The best Hotels

Old San Juan: At Hotel El Convento (San Juan;

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787/723-9202

), you can spend the afternoon wandering the Old City or lolling around the rooftop splash pool, with its sweeping vistas of San Juan Bay and the bluff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. There are bougainvillea and tropical flowers hanging from seemingly every window and terrace, as well as colorful, restored Spanish colonial architecture everywhere you turn. You’ll feel spoiled by your room’s marble bathroom and elegant bed. Gallery Inn at Galería San Juan (San Juan; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg

787/722-1808

) is a legendary bohemian property overlooking an oceanfront bluff adjacent to the centuries-old San Cristobal. An art studio and gallery, this charming colonial inn has sculpture gardens and flowery courtyards and plush accommodations.

Near San Juan: Two of the Caribbean’s new ultra luxury resorts, which offer a Garden of Eden experience for well-heeled travelers, are within easy reach of San Juan and its international airport. Both the St. Regis Bahía Beach Resort (Río Grande;

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787/809-8000

) and the Dorado Beach, a Ritz Reserve (Dorado; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg

787/626-1100

) offer world-class spas, golf, beach and nature facilities for guests who expect the highest level of comfort and service.

Southwest: The comfortable and tropically elegant Copamarina Beach Resort (Caña Gorda;

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787/821-0505

), a low-flung property that stretches between the strangely beautifully Guánica Dry Forest and glistening coastline with emerald blue waters and lush coastal mangrove forest, is a low maintenance, great value paradise.

Northwest: In land of big surf and natural beauty the Horned Dorset Primavera (Rincón;

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787/823-3040

) stands tall above the rest. With private plunge pools and oceanfront terraces, this small, tranquil estate in western Puerto Rico is a pocket of posh with luxurious accommodations, beautiful natural surroundings, and wonderful gourmet food and libations.

Vieques: The Inn on the Blue Horizon (Vieques;

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787/741-3318

) is a tropical vision on an oceanfront bluff overlooking the idyllic south coast of Vieques and the neighboring village of Esperanza. Relax with the sea breeze in the sumptuous furnishings of the main building’s open-air atrium, or watch the sunset at the circular Blue Moon Bar, which overlooks the striking coastline. If you want to really turn off the world and relax, the simple beauty of Hix Island House (Vieques; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg

787/741-2302

) is unsurpassable. Nestled in the island town’s central lush hills, the resort unfolds as if part of the landscape offering visitors extraordinary views and making the natural surroundings an intimate part of a guest’s stay.

The best Restaurants

San Juan

Best for a Splurge: Go French at the charming Bistro de Paris (p. 65), which brings the sophistication and good taste of the city of lights to San Juan, or sample what one of the best of chefs in Puerto Rico is cooking up at the hip and chic Santaella (p. 67).

Best for Romance: El Picoteo, at Hotel El Convento (p. 56), wraps around the gorgeous interior courtyard of Old San Juan’s most stunning historic property. With dozens of delectable tapas on the menu, and tropical foliage blooming against the Spanish colonial facades, this is a great spot to linger. At the luminous, seashell-shaped Perla Restaurant (p. 60), on the beach of Hotel La Concha, a meal is always an elegant event.

Best Bang for Your Buck: Café del Angel (p. 63) in Condado and Mi Casita (p. 70) in Isla Verde both serve tasty Puerto Rican food as well as U.S. standards at bargain rates.

Best for a Taste of the Island: Parrot Club (p. 54) is known for its Nuevo Latino cuisine, reinvigorating Puerto Rican and Cuban standards with fresh ingredients and new riffs, AND it has the best service in town. For comida criolla just like abuela makes, try El Jibarito (p. 59), a popular spots with local, or Raíces (p. 57), which not only offers authentic island cuisine, but a full immersion into Puerto Rican culture.

Best for Families: Ciao Mediterranean Café (p. 70) on the beach at Isla Verde and The Place (p. 64) in Condado have friendly atmospheres and menus that are equally appealing to kids and parents.

Best for After Hours: With the most extensive after-hours menu in town, The Greenhouse (p. 63) is the place to go when midnight munchies strike, no matter what you’re craving.

Best for Meat Eaters: Like all great restaurant towns, San Juan is filled with fantastic steakhouses. BLT Steak (p. 69), French chef Laurent Tourondel’s extravagant reinvention of the American steakhouse, gets our vote for top steak palace.

Best for Seafood Lovers: For the best of what’s fresh from the sea, head to vibrant and cool Aguaviva (p. 53) in Isla Verde or Tasca del Pescador, a family-run spot serving delicious Puerto Rican seafood at great prices the heart of Santurce (p. 68).

Best for Burgers and Pizza: Local veteran El Hamburger (p. 60) cooks up delicious burgers, dogs, fries, and onion rings. New kid of the block Melanzana Bistro & Pizzeria (p. 65) has the voluptuous feel of a Fellini film and authentic Neapolitan pizza and other fine Italian fare.

The best Family Experiences

Puerto Rico has a bounty of attractions, natural wonders, and resorts that welcome families who choose to play together. Here are some of the best.

Stay at a Kid-Friendly Resort: Near Old San Juan, the Caribe Hilton (

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787/721-0303

) has lots of kids’ activities, and its private beach and huge infinity pool will give parents piece of mind, whether your child is 4 or 14. Kids will keep busy with a video arcade, bicycle rentals, a kids club, tennis courts, and watersports equipment rentals. In Condado, try San Juan Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino

(

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787/722-7000

)

, with a water slide, kids camp and activities, and some super friendly staff members that love to cater to the kids. See p. 79. On the west coast in Aguadilla, the whole family will love the Marriott Courtyard Aguadilla

(

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787/658-8000

), with its pool, aquatics playground, and spacious guest rooms. It’s near some of the prettiest beaches on the island, too, and near attractions such as the Camuy Caves, Arecibo Observatory, a local water park, and an ice skating rink. See p. 187. El Conquistador Resort & Golden Door Spa

(

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800/468-5228

or 787/863-1000), in Las Croabas, offers the gold standard in family resorts with an extensive kids club, Camp Coquí, along with Coquí Waterpark which has pools, water slides, a rope bridge, and a lazy river attraction. The resort has some of the best facilities and restaurants in Puerto Rico, including a private beach island. See p. 195.

Having Adventures in Old San Juan: Your kids will love Old San Juan, as long as you take them to the places they will want to go. For toddlers and the under 10-set, the Museo del Niño (Children’s Museum; p. 99) offers lots of fun, from the rooftop nature exhibits to the padded play area with dress-up costumes. Exploring the Old City’s two fortresses—El Morro and San Cristobal—feels like you’re visiting a true-life Pirates of the Caribbean, and the grassy grounds of El Morro is perfect for flying kites. The Bahia Urbana Park at the entrance to Old San Juan on San Juan Bay has a Trapeze School and replicas of old sailing ships and activities for the kids. See chapter 5.

Hitting the North Coast’s Attractions: An hour west of San Juan, the Arecibo Observatory is the world’s largest radar/radio-telescope; with its huge dish and suspended cable bridges springing from the lush, mountainous terrain, the structure itself is just as fascinating as the work inside. Further west is the Río Camuy Cave Park, a world of subterranean marvels, with surging underground rivers and intricate cavern networks. The kids will also enjoy the Arecibo Lighthouse & Historic Park (Hwy. 655, El Muelle, Barrio Islote, Arecibo;

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787/880-7540;

www.arecibolighthouse.com). The park is housed in a 114-year-old lighthouse and offers visitors replicas of slave quarters, a pirate ship, cave, and other exhibits. See chapter 6.

The best Historic Sites

The Historic District of Old San Juan: There’s nothing like it in the Caribbean. Partially enclosed by old walls dating from the 17th century, Old San Juan was designated a U.S. National Historic Zone in 1950. Some 400 massively restored buildings fill this district, which is chockablock with tree-shaded squares, monuments, and open-air cafes as well as shops, restaurants, and bars. If you’re interested in history, there is no better stroll in the Caribbean. It continues to be a vibrant cultural center and enclave of the arts and entertainment, as well as one of the region’s culinary capitals. See Seeing the Sights, in chapter 5.

Castillo de San Felipe del Morro (Old San Juan): In Old San Juan and nicknamed El Morro, this fort was originally built in 1540. It guards the bay from a rocky promontory on the northwestern tip of the old city. Rich in history and legend, the site covers enough territory to accommodate a 9-hole golf course. See p. 86.

The Historic District of Ponce: Second only to Old San Juan in terms of historical significance, the central district of Ponce is a blend of Ponce Creole and Art Deco building styles, dating mainly from the 1890s to the 1930s. One street, Calle Isabel, offers an array of Ponceño architectural styles, which often incorporate neoclassical details. The city underwent a massive restoration preceding the celebration of its 300th anniversary in 1996. See Ponce, in chapter 8.

Museo de Arte de Ponce (Ponce): This museum has the finest collection of European and Latin American art in the Caribbean, and its architecture, as well as its collection, heralds both the classical and the modern. The modern additions flow into the original museum structure, which has been called the Parthenon of the Caribbean. The permanent collection is arranged by theme, rather than by date and school, which makes a visit to the museum livelier than the more academic arrangement typical in other museums. See p. 151.

The City of San Germán: Founded in 1512, this small town in the southwestern corner of Puerto Rico is Puerto Rico’s second-oldest city. Thanks to a breadth of architectural styles, San Germán is also the second Puerto Rican city (after San Juan) to be included in the National Register of Historic Places. Buildings, monuments, and plazas fill a 36-acre (15-hectare) historic zone. Today’s residents descend from the smugglers, poets, priests, and politicians who once lived here in the city of hills, so-called because of the mountainous location. See San Germán, in chapter 7.

Iglesia Porta Coeli (San Germán): The main attraction of this ancient town is the oldest church in the New World. It was originally built by Dominican friars in 1606. The church resembles a working chapel, although mass is held here only three times a year. Along the sides of the church are treasures gathered from all over the world. See San Germán, in chapter 7.

Puerto Rico Museum of Art (San Juan): This museum features interesting traveling shows and a growing permanent collection emphasizing local artists in impressive surroundings—a restored 1920s classic in Santurce. There are beautiful botanical gardens outside, and a theater exhibits cutting-edge films and performances of all types. There are day workshops, open to the public, and children’s activities held here nearly every weekend. See p. 91.

The best Golf Courses

Río Mar Beach Resort & Spa: A Wyndham Grand Resort (Río Grande; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg  787/888-6000): Two world-class golf courses are located here in the shadow of El Yunque rainforest along a dazzling stretch of coast. The entire 6,782 yards (6,201m) of Tom and George Fazio’s Ocean Course has seaside panoramas and breezes, and fat iguanas scampering through the lush grounds. The other course, a 6,945-yard (6,351m) design by golf pro Greg Norman, follows the flow of the Mameyes River through mountain and coastal vistas. See p. 131.

Dorado Beach Resort & Club (Dorado;

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787/796-8961

or 787/626-1006): With 72 holes, Dorado has the highest concentration of golf on the island. Of the many courses here, Dorado East is our favorite. Designed by Robert Trent Jones, Sr., it was the site of the Senior PGA Tournament of Champions throughout the 1990s. See p. 135.

El Conquistador Resort & Golden Door Spa (Fajardo;

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787/863-1000

): This sprawling resort on Puerto Rico’s northeast corner features 18 holes of par 72 golf with spectacular Atlantic Ocean views from its Arthur Hills Golf Course. See p. 195.

Palmas del Mar Country Club (Humacao;

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787/285-2221

): Lying on the east coast on the grounds of a former coconut plantation, the Palmas del Mar resort boasts the second-leading course in Puerto Rico—a par-72, 6,803-yard (6,221m) layout designed by Gary Player. Some crack golfers consider holes 11 through 15 the toughest five successive holes in the Caribbean. There’s also an 18-hole championship-caliber course designed by Rees Jones. See p. 200.

Trump International Golf Club (Río Grande;

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787/657-2000

): Located on 1,200 acres (486 hectares) of glistening waterfront, the club comprises two recently improved 18-hole golf courses designed by Tom Kite that allow you to play in the mountains, along the ocean, among the palms, and in between the lakes. Its bunkers are carved from white silica sand. See p. 130.

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Puerto Rico In Context

Puerto Ricans are intensely proud of their culture, a rich brew of Taíno Indian, Spanish, African, and American influences, and most relish showing off the best of it. Yet visitors will be just as struck at the worldliness of most Puerto Ricans as they are by the beat of salsa music, the symphony of flavor in a seafood stuffed mofongo, or the long line of master island painters, print makers, and song writers. That too results from its historic forging from several distinct world cultures.

For more than a century, Puerto Rico’s political life has been dominated by its century-old ties to the United States. Those ties have been largely beneficial, and most Puerto Ricans cherish their U.S. citizenship and want to maintain the current political relationship, either through continued commonwealth status or statehood. A smaller percentage favor outright separation from the United States to make Puerto Rico a sovereign nation (the pro-independence party gubernatorial candidate usually gets 5 percent of the vote). Yet the relationship with the United States is also the source of island society’s central anxiety, which centers on the need for a permanent political status.

Millions of Puerto Ricans have flocked stateside over the last 70 years in search of economic and educational opportunities and an improved quality of life, and they continue to do so. In fact, Puerto Ricans living stateside now surpass the number living on the island: roughly 5 million, versus about 3.6 million. But for most stateside boricuas, their allegiance still belongs to their island homeland, which means frequent trips during vacations and holidays. A sizeable number of Puerto Rican passengers are on most planes from the U.S. arriving at Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport in San Juan. They will burst into applause upon touchdown on Puerto Rican soil. Many others return to Puerto Rico after retiring.

The first wave of island migrants during the 1940s and 1950s largely settled in and around New York, and came seeking blue-collar jobs and the hope for a better future for their families. Today, the typical migrant is more likely a highly educated professional moving to south or central Florida pursuing greater career advancement opportunities and an improved quality of life.

Puerto Rican writer René Marqués, who came of age in the 1940s and 1950s when Puerto Rico was modernizing into an industrial economy and getting a big dose of U.S. influence, spoke of the dual nature of his island, which nevertheless contributed to its uniqueness. Puerto Rico has two languages, he claimed, and two citizenships, two basic philosophies of life, two flags, two anthems, two loyalties.

Puerto Rico Today

Puerto Rico often makes headlines in U.S. news media, and daughters and sons of the island, from pop stars Ricky Martin and Marc Anthony to actors Benicio Del Toro and Jennifer López, have given U.S. and world audiences a taste of the enormous talent of this small island, which is also evident in the storied ledger of island baseball sluggers and boxing champs, from Roberto Clemente to Felix Trinidad. Of course, the news is not always good, and recent struggles with economic issues have also drawn headlines.

Puerto Rico, however, also draws attention because it is among the most developed destinations in the Caribbean and a true regional hub for transportation and telecommunications, with a modern infrastructure and a diversified economy, as well as a cultural and entertainment capital.

A Changing Economy

Puerto Rico is the easternmost of the Greater Antilles and the fourth largest island in the Caribbean after Cuba, Hispaniola (which comprises the Dominican Republic and Haiti), and Jamaica. The island is located at the crossroads between North and South America, at just 31⁄2 hours airtime from New York, 60 minutes from Caracas, and only 4 days sailing from Atlantic ports in the U.S. and ports in the Gulf of Mexico. The Puerto Rican territory includes three other small islands, Vieques, Culebra, and Mona, as well as numerous islets.

Some 3.6 million people live in Puerto Rico, approximately one-third of them within the San Juan metropolitan area. The island, with an area of 3,435 square miles (9,000 sq. km)—110 miles long by 39 miles wide—has a mountainous interior and is surrounded by a wide coastal plain where the majority of the population lives. Rainfall averages 69 inches (175cm) per year and year-round temperatures range from 74°F (23°C) in the winter to 81°F (27°C) in the summer.

The island actually lost population during the last 10 years, one of a handful of U.S. jurisdictions to do so, according to the latest U.S. Census figures. It’s a sign of the island’s long-standing recession, which began in 2006 and continues today. With more than 4 million Puerto Ricans living stateside, it is now the first time there are more Puerto Ricans living in the continental U.S. than on the island.

Relationship with the United States

Puerto Rico came under the European sphere of influence in 1493, when Christopher Columbus landed here. Shortly thereafter, the island was conquered and settled by the Spaniards. It remained a Spanish possession for 4 centuries.

The territory of Puerto Rico was ceded to the United States upon signature of the Treaty of Paris, on December 10, 1898, a pact which ended the Spanish-American War. Puerto Ricans have been citizens of the United States since 1917. In 1950, after a long evolution toward greater self-government for Puerto Rico, the Congress of the United States enacted Public Law 600, which is in the nature of a compact and which became effective upon its acceptance by the electorate of Puerto Rico. It provides that those sections of existing law, which defined the political, economic, and fiscal relationship between Puerto Rico and the United States, would remain in full force. It also authorized the people of Puerto Rico to draft and adopt their own Constitution. The Constitution was drafted by a popularly elected constitutional convention, overwhelmingly approved in a special referendum by the people of Puerto Rico, and approved by the United States Congress and the president of the United States, becoming effective upon proclamation of the governor of Puerto Rico on July 25, 1952. Puerto Rico’s relationship with the United States is referred to herein as commonwealth status.

The United States and the Commonwealth of Puerto Rico (the Commonwealth) share a common defense, market, and currency. The Commonwealth exercises virtually the same control over its internal affairs as do the 50 states. It differs from the states, however, in its relationship with the federal government. The people of Puerto Rico are citizens of the United States but do not vote in national elections. They are represented in Congress by a Resident Commissioner who has a voice in the House of Representatives but no vote. Most federal taxes, except those such as Social Security taxes, which are imposed by mutual consent, are not levied in Puerto Rico. No federal income tax is collected from Puerto Rico residents on income earned in Puerto Rico, except for certain federal employees who are subject to taxes on their salaries. The official languages of Puerto Rico are Spanish and English.

The 51st State?

The New Progressive Party wants to make Puerto Rico the 51st state, but the opposition is strong, both on the island and in Congress. In a nonbinding two-question political plebiscite held in November 2012, 53.97 percent of voters said they were against continuing Puerto Rico’s current commonwealth territory status. A second question had voters choose among nonterritorial alternatives to the current status, with 61.13 percent voting for statehood, 33.34 percent voting for Puerto Rico becoming a nation in a free association with the U.S. and 5.49 percent voting for independence. Some 26 percent of ballots cast were left blank to protest that the status quo commonwealth status was left off the second ballot.

The current administration of Gov. Alejandro García Padilla is of the Popular Democratic Party, which backs the continued commonwealth status. It has called for a new status vote among all options by 2017, but the party will have to define specifically the commonwealth political status, and it must be approved by the federal government as Constitutionally acceptable. The Puerto Rican Independence Party typically achieves less than 5 percent of popular support in gubernatorial elections. These three parties have dominated island politics of the last 6 decades.

Puerto Rico Population & Pop Culture

The inhabitants of Puerto Rico represent a mix of races, cultures, languages, and religions. They draw their heritage from the original native population, from Spanish royalists who sought refuge here, from African slaves imported to work the sugar plantations, and from other Caribbean islanders who have come here seeking jobs. The Spanish they speak is a mix, too, with many words borrowed from the pre-Columbian Amerindian tongue as well as English. Even the Catholicism they practice incorporates some Taíno and African traditions.

About 3.6 million people live on the main island, making it one of the most densely populated islands in the world. It has an average of about 1,000 people per square mile, a ratio higher than that of any of the 50 states. There are now more Puerto Ricans living stateside as there are on the island. If all of the estimated 5 million stateside Puerto Ricans were to all return home, the island would be so crowded that there would be virtually no room for them to live.

When the United States acquired the island in 1898, most Puerto Ricans worked in agriculture; today most jobs are industrial. One-third of Puerto Rico’s population is concentrated in the San Juan metropolitan area.

When the Spanish forced the Taíno peoples into slavery, virtually the entire indigenous population was decimated, except for a few Amerindians who escaped into the remote mountains. Eventually they intermarried with the poor Spanish farmers and became known as jíbaros. Because of industrialization and migration to the cities, few jíbaros remain.

Besides the slaves imported from Africa to work on the plantations, other ethnic groups joined the island’s racial mix. Fleeing Simón Bolívar’s independence movements in South America, Spanish loyalists headed to Puerto Rico—a fiercely conservative Spanish colony during the early 1800s. French families also flocked here from both Louisiana and Haiti, as changing governments or violent revolutions turned their worlds upside down. As word of the rich sugar-cane economy reached economically depressed Scotland and Ireland, many farmers from those countries also journeyed to Puerto Rico in search of a better life.

During the mid–19th century, labor was needed to build roads. Initially, Chinese workers were imported for this task, followed by workers from countries such as Italy, France, Germany, and even Lebanon. American expatriates came to the island after 1898. Long after Spain had lost control of Puerto Rico, Spanish immigrants continued to arrive on the island. The most significant new immigrant population arrived in the 1960s, when thousands of Cubans fled from Fidel Castro’s communist state. The latest arrivals in Puerto Rico have come from the Dominican Republic.

Islanders are most known for their contributions to popular music, and visitors here will no doubt see why. Sometimes, the whole island seems to be dancing. It’s been that way since the Taínos, with music an important aspect of their religious and cultural ceremonies.

Young Puerto Ricans have developed their own rock en español and Latin pop sound, and a recent musical craze born in Puerto Rico is reggaeton, an infectious blend of rap, reggae, and island rhythms, often accompanied by x-rated hip shaking. Daddy Yankee put the music on the world map with his hit Gasolina; other well-known island artists in the genre are the duo Wisin y Yandel and Don Omar. Vico C is a local rapper credited with being a pioneer for today’s reggaeton stars.

Puerto Rico is still dominated by salsa, a mix of African, Caribbean, and North American rhythms. Salsa bands tend to be full orchestras, with brass sections and several percussionists. The beat is infectious and nonstop, but salsa dancing is all about smooth gyrations and style.

The late Tito Puente, a Latin Jazz master, was instrumental in the development of the music along with singer Ismael Miranda. Puerto Rican salsa won world-wide fame in the late 1970s and early 1980s through groups such as the Fania All Stars, who paired Héctor Lavoe, Rubén Blades and Willie Colón, and El Gran Combo, who still performs today after 40 years together. Famous contemporary practitioners are Gilberto Santa Rosa and Marc Anthony. Actress and singer Jennifer López, Anthony’s ex-wife, is another of Puerto Rico’s most famous descendants. Their pet project, the biopic El Cantante, based on Lavoe’s life, was filmed in Puerto Rico and New York in 2007.

Jennifer López is not the only borinqueña to make a mark on the world stage: A total of four Puerto Rican women have won the Miss Universe competition, most recently Zuleyka Rivera in 2006.

The most famous Puerto Rican singer, however, is still probably pop star Ricky Martin, who continues to be a hometown favorite and sells out shows during his frequent island performances. Other famous island musicians currently include Rene Pérez of Calle 13 and Tego Calderon, who work the reggaeton genre while exploring other island and world beats, reggae band Cultura Profetica, female