Natural Hair

In order for the hair to serve its designated functions including insulation, forming a protective physical barrier and communication, hair follicles must change and the manner in which they accomplish this goal is through the hair growth cycle. During the hair growth cycle, the original lower portion of the follicle is destroyed and it then regenerates, creating another. This process is unique in that it allows the body to produce hair follicles that contain different characteristics. In other words, post-natal follicles are still capable of recapitulating the later steps in follicular embryogenesis throughout a person’s life. Because many changes in hair (like growing an entire beard) will take several years to complete, experts are still unsure the extent of possible differences in hair size when compared to its predecessor. http://www.curlcentric.com/how-to-grow-natural-hair/

The discrimination of African Americans originates from when Europeans forcibly removed Africans from their homeland to be slaves in the American colonies. Before enslavement in America, Africans could use their hair to communicate certain characteristics about themselves such as their relationship status, age, and more ("Fast History: Black Women and Their Hair", 2017). However, Africans were forced to cut and/or cover all their hair with head wraps when they arrived in America. It was a way to separate them from their culture and identity. Many White people during that time referred to Black hair as wool to dehumanize Black people (Ivey, 2006). In addition, White people treated Black people with lighter skin and straight hair, which were usually interracial individuals, better than those who did not have those features (Robinson, 2011). After slavery was outlawed, a Black person not wearing their hair straight could show defiance, but their hairstyle choice could determine if a White person allowed them to be educated, employed, and more (Patton, 2006). This is how colorism, natural hair discrimination, and internalized self-hate began. Since then, degrading all aspects of African American culture has been normalized. This includes music, religious practices, and style of dress. African American culture was and sometimes still is seen as savage and dangerous by the White majority. This can be especially seen in the 1960s and 1970s. During this time period, a movement started that urged African Americans to be Black and proud of it. One way they did this was by wearing afros in opposition to the beauty standards of White America (Garrin & Marcketti, 2018). Garrin and Marcketti's (2018) participants expressed how wearing their afros out for the world to see made them feel strong and a part of something bigger than themselves. The afro also began as a symbol for the

I was invited by the Filministes to introduce and moderate discussion about "This is Good Hair, too: a Black Natural Hair Documentary" by Boyd C. George. I will have the opportunity to present some research results from my research and experiences with women thinking about going natural, transitionistas, or naturalista and their journey in Quebec.

The event is free and open to all. Additional information is available on the filministe FaceBook Event page "À poil! Réflexions sur la pilosité"

(English follows)
Le phénomène du retour des cheveux crépus est un mouvement qui a canalisé les femmes noires du monde entier à une revalorisation plus visible de la beauté de leurs cheveux naturels. Pour beaucoup de femmes d’origine africaine, ce retour médiatisé des cheveux crépus sur les réseaux sociaux (commençant par YouTube) puis dans toutes les sphères publiques à soulevé des conversations autour de l’identité féminine noire, les cheveux et les relations, mais aussi sur l’impact du ‘’featurisme’’ et du ‘’colorisme’’ sur les rapports communautaires. Elle a aussi été marquée par des réflexions poussées et le début d’une quête identitaire personnelle, intime, individuelle et parfois même communautaire de redéfinition, de réaffirmation mais surtout d’épanouissement.
Cette présentation fera un survol des enjeux multidimensionnels que soulèvent la présence des cheveux naturels crépus depuis l’essor de cette révolution capillaire et utilisera notamment pour illustration des données recueillies lors de plusieurs focus groupes, entrevues et discussions qui se sont tenues depuis 2009. 

The phenomenon of the return of kinky hair is a movement that catalyzed black women around the world towards a more visible revalorization of the beauty of their naturally kinky hair. For many women of African descend, this mediatized return of kinky hair on social media (starting with YouTube) and then in every aspects of the public sphere has been the source of many conversation dealing with the black feminine identity, hair and its impact on relationships, and also on the impact of ''featurism'' and ''colorism'' on relational interaction within the black community. This movement has been marked by in depth reflections and the start of a personal identity quest, intimate, individual, and often times communal to redefine, reaffirm, and above all for personal well-being and fulfillment. 
This presentation will provide an overview of the multidimensional issues raised by the presence of kinky hair since the rise of the kinky hair revolution  and will include as illustrations, examples from data collected through focus groups, interviews, and discussions that have taken place since 2009.

Les études concernant les cheveux sont souvent confinées aux perspectives esthétiques ou scientifiques du discours dominant et touchent rarement aux explorations liées à l’absence dans les médias de la présence et l’expression des cheveux naturels des femmes d’origine africaine. Pourtant, l’histoire, le droit, l’économie et même la musique sont autant de domaines qui ont participé à la suppression de cette physionomie dans l’espace sociétal global. Cette lacune a récemment été remise en question par le phénomène de la révolution capillaire du naturel qui revendique une place de droit aux cheveux crépus. Plus qu’un mouvement esthétique, cette révolution rejette les pratiques qui mettent en danger la santé (physique et mentale) de certaines femmes et propose une réévaluation des implications profondes concernant cette texture capillaire particulière, sa contribution à la diversité humaine, à l’identité féminine et communautaire. Alors que le dialogue anglophone a pris son essor, une carence académique demeure dans le contexte interculturel et linguistique (francophone) et souligne le besoin d’intégrer plus de femmes concernées afin de prendre en compte leurs perceptions et les ramifications que celles-ci peuvent avoir sur leur santé et comportement sociétal. 

Invitée par les Filministes pour leur soirée "À poil! Réflexion sur la pilosité", je vais faire la mise en contexte du documentaire, modérer les dicussions ainsi que présenter quelques résultats de mes propres recherches pour contextualiser les éléments soulevés à l'expérience Québécoise.
Cet activité est gratuite et ouverte à tous! Vous trouverez plus d'information sur la page FaceBook créée par les Filministes pour le thème mentionné ci-haut.

Presenting research results from two focus groups held with college female students in Montreal Canada. This study provides insights on how francophone women of African descent living in Quebec view the movement back to natural hair. This communication was made in French.