Internship Report
On
Birds Group of Inderstiy
Course Title: Industrial Internship
Course Code: Tex-404
Supervisor
Nasif Chowdhury
Senior Lecturer
Department Of Textile Engineering
City University,Ashulia, Savar, Dhaka.
Prepared by
Kawsar Ahmed
ID: 12331402
Batch: 22nd
Department Of Textile Engineering
City University,Ashulia, Savar, Dhaka.
Submission Date: 06, December, 2017
I sincerely declare that, this is our Internship Report, prepared by kawsar Ahmed under the supervision of Md. Nasif Chowdhury - Senior Lecturer
Department of Textile Engineering, Eng. Md. Arifuzzaman - Assistant Professor and Coordinator Department of Textile Engineering, Dr A K M Saiful Islam - Professor and Head of the Department of Textile Engineering, City University, Ashulia, Savar, Dhaka. We are the sole writer of this report and the details of training and experience contained in this report describe our involvement as a trainee in the field of Textile. I also declare that, all the information contained in this report is certain and corrected by us.
Signature of the Supervisor
Nasif Chowdhury
Senior Lecturer
Senior Lecturer & Co-Ordinator (Evening)
Department Of Textile Engineering
City University,Ashulia, Savar, Dhaka.
During the period of eight weeks, starting from September 02, 2017 to November 02, 2017, I was placed as a trainee in the Birds Group of Indestry. And gathered knowledge on textile. Without help and guidance from numerous instances it would not have been possible to learn about textile sector and to prepare this report in its present form. I wish to express our sincere appreciation to all those individuals and organizations who have directly or indirectly contributed towards the preparation of this report and help us on our training time. I particularly express our gratitude to the following:
Nasif Chowdhury, Senior Lecturer, Department of Textile Engineering, of Textile Engineering as our supervisor for giving valuable help and advice in the presentation of analytical process and in the display and selection of the content of the report.
Saydur Rahman Raju, General Manager of dyeing, Knitting & Garments department, Sagor, junior executive of dyeing department ,Mehedi Hasan Senior Merchandiser Birds Group of Inderstiy for their kind co-operation.
Above all, I would like to acknowledge our deep debt to all teachers of our university especially of Garment Manufacturing Technology department for their kind inspiration and help, which remain as the backdrop of all our efforts.
Finally, I would like to acknowledge that we remain responsible for the inadequacies and errors, which may remain in the report undoubtedly.
Table of Contents
Chapter
Topics Name
Page No.
1
Introduction
5-6
2
Man Power Management
7-9
3
Knitting Section
10-26
4
Dying Section
27-44
5
Finishing
45-52
6
Garments
53-71
7
Quality Assurance
72-73
8
Utility Service
74-76
9
Maintenance
77-79
10
ETP
80-83
11
Store and Inventory Control
84-86
12
Compliance Issue
87-89
13
Conclusion
90-91
Industrial attachment is an important and essential part of 4 year B.Sc. in Textile Engineering Course. Actually industrial attachment is the practical experience for every Textile Engineer which is needed to be familiar not only the industry but also all over the necessary job related to continue in any industry. During student life a student cannot know about the practical condition so its badly needed for every student for attain for the industrial attachment . Birds Group of Indestry. is truly an excellent industry from our point of view. All types of modern technology are well arranged here. Every section in here helps us so much by giving information during our training period which was unbelievable. Specially IT Department maintain the Management Information System a vital role for the companies smooth operation and development, We are so satisfied and lucky student to completed our Industrial Attachment in Birds Group of Indestry.I think this Industrial Attachment will be outstanding helpful in our future career life.
2.1 Man Power Organ gram of Administration:
Chairman
Managing Director
Director
General Manager
Man power organogram of production
Production Director
Production Manager
Assistant General Manager
Quality Manager
Admin Manager
Admin
Assistant Admin
Line Chip
Supervisor
Quality Controller
Operator
Helper
Labor
2.2 Shift Change:
There are three shifts per day in hypoid Composite Knit Ltd.So each shifts contains eight hour.
Start
End
6:00 A.M.
2.00 P.M.
2.00 P.M.
10:00 P.M.
10:00 P.M.
6:00 A.M.
8.00 AM
6.00 PM
2.3 Management System:
Four mechanical fitters for per shift.
One skilled operator for each machine
One helper for two machine
Loader for carrying the yarn package
3.1 Process definition of knitting:
Knitted fabric generally produced by form of loop. Any circular knitted fabric is composed of row after row of interloping or interlocking of loops. Different types of fabric are made of different method. The gross dimension of knitted fabric is simply a reflection of any shape & size of individual loops. There are several key variables in the production which affect the average shape & size of the loops. After knitting the gray fabric is dyed to required shade & finished to required weight & width.
3.2 Variables of Knitting:
During production of fabric in circular knitting machine following parameters must be maintain:
Machine Diameter;
Machine RPM (Revolution Per Minute);
Number of feeds or feeders in use;
Required time (Machine running time);
Machine running efficiency.
Yarn Count
Yarn Twist
Spinning system
No of ply of the yarn
Stitch length
Yarn tension
Take down tension
Yarn quality
Machine gauge
3.3 Process Flow Chart of knitting:
3.4 Classification of Knitting:
3.5 Following are the Different Qualities of Yarn that are used for Knitting Process:
Table-02: different qualities of yarn used for knitting process.
Type of yarn
Count
Cotton
16s ,20s, 24s, 26S, 28S, 30S, 34S, 40S
Spandex yarn
20D,40D
Grey Mélange (C-90% V-10%)
24S, 26S
PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton)
24S, 26S, 28S, 30S
CVC
24S, 26S, 28S, 30S
3.6 Machine description of knitting section:
Circular Knitting Machine : Single Jersey, Double Jersey
Single Jersey : 03
Double Jersey : 03
Total no of M/C : 06
No. of line : 01
3.6.1 Circular Knitting Machine:
Circular knitting m/cs. are widely used throughout the knitting industry to produce fabric. This m/c can be built in almost any reasonable diameter and the small diameter of up to five, which are used for wear.
Machine for outerwear and under wear may vary from 12 inch to 60 inch in diameter according to manufactures requirement. This m/c can be used either as fabric or for making garments completely with fancy stitch. Latch needles are commonly employed in all modern circular m/c because of their simple action and also their ability to process more types of yarns.
Plain circular m/c uses only one sets of needles, circular rib m/c uses two sets of needles i, e, Cylinder needle and Dial needle, the interlock circular knitting m/c also uses two sets of needles
by needles are long and short respectively for both dial and cylinder, that is why multiple design and thick fabric can be produce with that m/c. That m/c is also called double Jersey m/c.
Fig-01: Circular Knitting M/C
M/c. Gauge – needle/inch (varies according to diameter)
Needle Type – Latch
Needle bed type – Single cylinder, Double cylinder, Cylinder &
Dial, long or short needles for cylinder and dial.
Two principle operation exist:
English system – Where the cams and yarns strands revolve by needle and fabric take down is stationary.
American system – Where the needles and fabric take down revolves by cams and yarn strands are stationary.
3.6.2 Important Equipment of Circular Knitting M/C:
1. START/STOP/INCH BUTTONS:
Complete set of easily accessible start/stop/inch buttons at top in each leg.
2. RATCHET LEVER:
Permit hand movement of the M/C.
3. AUTO STOP MOTION:
Automatic three stages 24v yarn motion, positive feed tapes & knitting zone. Indicator
lamps are on individual stop motions & on the main control panel. While the yarn is
broken we can find the location which is broken as well as to repair, meanwhile the motor
can brake and stop operation at once to keep the security of M/C.
4. FREE STANDING SIDE CREEL:
With an active reserve package for each feed.
5. AUTO–COUNTER:
Two shift revolution with display counter with predetermined stop, to settle freely the
weight or yardage of fabric.
6. VARIABLE SPEED DRIVE WITH M/C BRAKE:
Transistor inverter provided for free controlled, the process of “V.s. motor-drive” from
slow operation to normal operation is quite & fast brake to prevent damages in case of
needles or yarn breakage.
7. FABRIC TAKE UP SYSTEM:
With variable speed control by a belt drive set can be adjusted the speed for different
course of fabric-constant and uniform fabric tension.
8. SAFETY GUARD SWITCH:
Machine cannot be started with guards open; this guards have reinforced fibreglass
window for easy fabric inspection.
9. AUTO LUBRICATION:
The automatic central pressurized oil sprayer can be adjusted at cycling time and quantity
to make cylinder, dial, sinker ring’s cam, needles and sinkers lubricated enough, besides it
has the function cooling and clearing.
3.7 Other Machine in Knitting Section:
Electric
01. Balance for Fabric Weight.
02. Electric Balance for GSM check.
03. Layout of Knitting Section:
04. Man Power of Knitting Section:
Table-03: Man power of knitting section
Section
No. of Person
Manager
01
Production officer
01
Quality Section
02
Knitting Master
01
Fitter man
03
Needle man
03
Supervisor
01
Operator
12
Helper
10
Total
34
3.8.1 SHIFT CHANGE:
Shift of twelve hours. Shift changes after a week on Saturday.
3.8.2 RESPONSIBILITIES OF PRODUCTION OFFICER:
From getting an order of upper level all responsibilities are on the production officers. They work with a troop of operators, helpers, fitters etc. to finish the production in due time. In the meantime production officers bear all hazards, problems. They have to explain to the manager for any type of production hamper.
3.9 Recommendation points buyer
They mention some points related to production & quality, before production of knitted fabric. Those are follows:
Diameter of the fabric and Design of the fabric.
Total wt. of the fabric and Color of the fabric.
Handling & fastness property.
Finishing type of the fabric.
Types of yarn, GSM of the fabric and Yarn count.
3.1o Specification of the Machines:
Machine No: 1, 2 & 3 (Rib Machine)
Technical Data:
Machine Diameter: 30
Machine Gauge: 18
No of Feeders: 60
No of Cam: 61
Production Range:
Rib
Interlock
Ottoman
Thermal drop
Origin: Made in Taiwan
Brand Name: LKM
Machine No: 4, 5 & 6 Single Jersey machine:
Technical Data:
Machine Diameter:30
Machine Gauge: 24
No of Feeders: 90
No of Cam: 30
Production Range:
Plain & Drop Needle
Lactose
Pique
Feeder stripes.
Origin : Made in Taiwan
Brand name : LKM
3.11 Different Parts of Knitting Machine:
Needle
Feeder
Sensor
Cam
Cam Box
Singer
Singer box
Pulley
GSM pulley
Wheel
Take up roller
Lycra stapper
Lycra Miminger
Wheel Miminger
Cylinder
Wheel premium
Lycra Bale
Wheel Bale
Oil Tank
Compressor
Oil Pipe
Panel board
Invetor
Motor
Motor bale
Machine Hand
Roller
Gate Light
Machine Fan
Earthing
Cylinder spring
Gauge Meter
Tension Meter
Switch
Machine piya
Gear Oil Box
Machine safe
Feeder Ring
3.12 Description of Production Process:
Hypoid Composite Knit Limited is capable of producing stripes of any width and enormous color. Single jersey fabrics and its derivatives like lacost, polo pique, terry fleece etc., rib and interlock fabrics and its derivatives such as 2x2, 3x3 etc. are produced. Different fabrics can be produced by jacquard m/c by varying the tucking lengths and looping sequence. Collar and cuffs of any designs are produced here in the flat bed m/cs. The jacquard design can be computerized and transferred to the knitting m/c by floppy disks. The yarn that used in the body fabric is also used in producing collar and cuff.
GSM
It is the critical parameter that is checked and controlled at different staged of processing the fabric after knitting to finishing. Fabric GSM can be controlled by the following ways:
By varying the loop length by VDQ pulley.
By varying the no. of loops by needle gauge setting.
By using different count of yarn.
The yarn count, in all cases, has prescribed by the buyers. So m/c setting is the only way to control the grey GSM. The final GSM in the finished fabric depend on the finishing treatments and parameters of finishing machineries.
Fabric width
Fabric width can be controlled by changing cylinder diameter or by changing m/c.
RPM
M/c rpm is adjusted with the lead time for production. When lead time is very short then rpm may increase at a certain level for definite count and strength of yarn. So it also depends on the yarn parameter and also with structure to be produced.
Loop length
Loop length determines the fabric GSM. It can be controlled by changing the dia of VDQ pulley In Mayer & CIE m/c, it can be controlled digitally.
No. of feeder or no. of cone
It depends on the urgency of production. Available cone packages, color to be knit and structure of the fabric.
Needle
The fundamental element of construction of knitted fabric is the knitting needle. Needle is the hooked metal part which is used for the formation of loops. The needles are the most important stitch forming elements. During yarn feeding, the hook is opened to release the retrained old loop & to receive the new loop which is then enclosed in the hook. They are displayed vertically up & down and are mounted into the tricks or cuts of the knitting cylinder. All kinds of knitting needle should have the system to make a new loop and return back to the old loop. There are three types of needle namely:
1. Latch needle
2. Spring bearded needle, and
3. Compound needle
Sinker
Sinker is the second knitting element. It is a thin metal plate within an individual or collective action operating approximately at right from the hook side between adjacent needles. It may perform one or more of the following functions dependent upon the machines action and related sinker shape and movement.
Loop formation
Holding down
Knocking over
Fig-03: Sinker
In Figure, 1=Butt,2=Butt breadth,3=Height of shank,4=Buldge,5=Neb,6=Length neb,7=Throat angle,8=Sinker platform height,9=Breadth of lower shank,10=Clearance,11=Throat.
Cam
Cam are the third primary knitting elements which cover the rotary machine drive into a suitable reciprocating action for the needles and other elements. The cams are carefully profiled to produce precisely timed movement and dwell periods. The drive transmitted and adapted via cam followers, leavers, pivots and rocking shafts. One complete revolution of the driving shaft is equivalent to one knitting cycle. Two types of Cams:
i. Engineering cams
ii. Knitting cams
Knit cam
b. Tuck cam
c. Miss cam
Fig-04 Cam
Tuck
A tuck stitch is composed of a held loop, one or more tuck loops and knitted loops. It is produced when a needle holding its loop also receives the new loop which becomes a tuck loop; it is not intermeshed through the old loop.
Fig-o5: Tuck Stitch
3.13 Difference between Single Jersey and Double Jersey M/C:
Single Jersey
Double Jersey
1. One set needle is used.
1. Two set needle are used.
2. Has sinker.
2. Has no sinker.
3. Inside of m/c is vacuum.
3. Inside is not vacuum.
4. Has sinker box.
4. Has no sinker box.
5. Has sinker ring.
5. Has no sinker ring.
6. Has cylinder only..
6. Has cylinder & dial.
3.14 Difference between Single Jersey & Double Jersey Fabric:
Single Jersey(Plain)
Double Jersey(Rib)
1. Face & Back side appearance different.
1. Face & Back side appearance same.
2. Plain fabric has curling tendency.
2. No curling tendency.
3.It is unbalanced fabric .
3. It’s balanced fabric.
4. Less elastic property.
4. More elastic Property.
5. Thickness & weight is half of rib fabric.
5. Thickness & weight is twice of single jersey fabric.
6. Face side contains only face loops and back side contains only reverse loops or all are face otherwise all are back loop.
6. Face side contains both face & reverse loops and back side same. Or one face and one back loop.
7.Plain knit structures are used for basic T-Shirt (men & ladies) , under garments, men vest etc.
7. Rib structure are used for socks, cuffs, waistbands, underwear etc.
3.15 Faults and Remedies their causes in Knitting:
5.15.1 Hole Mark:
Causes
Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks. During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook. If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density. Badly knot or splicing. Yarn feeder badly set.
Remedies
Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.
Use proper count of yarn.
Correctly set of yarn feeder.
Knot should be given properly.
3.15.2 Needle Mark:
Causes
When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics. If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics.
Remedies
Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.
3.15.3 Sinker Mark:
Causes
When sinker corrodes due to abrasion then sometimes cannot hold a new loop as a result sinker mark comes. If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.
Remedies
Sinker should be changed.
3.15.4 Star Mark:
Causes
Yarn tension variation during production.
Buckling of the needle latch.
Low G.S.M fabric production.
Remedies
Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
Use good conditioned needles.
3.15.5 Drop Stitches:
Causes
Defective needle.
If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle hook.
Take-down mechanism too loose.
Insufficient yarn tension.
Badly set yarn feeder.
Remedies
Needle should be straight & well.
Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.
Yarn tension should be properly.
3.15.6 Yarn Faults:
Neps, Slubs. Yarn count, Thick/Thin place in yarn, Hairiness.
3.15.7 Oil Stain:
Causes
When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line.
Remedies
Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.
Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.
3.15.8 Rust Stain:
Causes
If any rust on the machine parts.
Remedies
If any rust on the machine parts then clean it.
Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling.
3.15.9 Pin Hole:
Causes
Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.
Remedies
Change the needle.
3.15.10 Grease Stain:
Causes
Improper greasing.
Excess greasing.
Remedies
Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance.
3.15.11 Cloth Fall- Out:
Causes
Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with an empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove the yarn out of the hook of the following needles.
Remedies
Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a drop stitch.
3.15.12 Fly:
Causes
In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production.
Remedies
Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.
By cleaning the floor continuously.
By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.
Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.
3.15.12 Yarn Contamination:
Causes
If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,
If lot, count mixing occurs.
Remedies
By avoiding lot, count mixing.
Fault less spinning.
3.16 Factors that should be Change in Case of Fabric Design on Quality Change:
a) Cam setting
b) Set of needle
c) Size of Stitch Length
Fig-06 Single jersey circular knitting machine
3.17 Key Accessories used in Circular knitting:
Yarn feeder guide
Needle
Sinker
Cam
Cylinder
VDQ pulley
Pattern wheel
Sinker cam cap
Sinker trick ring
Dial
3.18 Quality Control Equipment:
Yarn tension meter
Stitch length meter
Magnifying glass
GSM cutter etc.
3.19 Relation between m/c dia & Number of feeder of this m/c:
Number of feeder = M/C dia 3
Positive feed system and Negative feed system
If needle gets required thread without stretch for loop formation, it is called positive feed system. If needle drawls the thread for loop formation called negative feed system.
Negative feed system is best. Because
a. Easy mechanism.
b. No slippage.
c. Maximum 4 course length variation.
d. To adjust loop length variation.
e. No possibility of thread breakage.
f. Wide range yarn feeding.
V.D.Q
V.D.Q means Variable dia for quality. Is used to control fabric G.S.M.
3.20 GSM Calculation:
GSM means grams per square meter. In knitting fabric it is the main parameter. It is controlled by loop length. If loop length increases GSM will decrease and vice versa. It is measured by GSM cutter & electric balance. It may also be calculated as below.
3.21 Production Calculation:
3.22 End Products of Knitting Machines:
Single Jersey M/C :
Single Jersey Plain
Single Lacost
Double Lacost
Single Pique
Double Pique
Baby Terry
Three Thread Fleece
Lycra Single Jersey
Lycra Single Lacost
Double Jersey M/C:
1*1 Rib
2*1Rib
1*1 Lycra Rib
2*1 Lycra Rib
Flat Back Rib
.23 Fabric Gallery:
All samples are collected from Hypoid Composite Knit Ltd.
100% Cotton Single jersey Slub Single Jersey
Pique Lacost
CVC PC
Lycra Rib 1*1 Fleece
Tery Interlock
3.24 4-Point System for Fault Inspection for Knitted Fabric:
Table-04: 4-Point system for fault inspection for Knitted Fabric:
Knitting Fault
Point
Slub
1
Any kind of Hole
4
Needle Mark/Sinker Mark
4
Needle Broken
4
Set up
4
Dirt, Oil Spot, Thick, Thin, Contamination up to 3” in Length
1
Dirt, Oil Spot, Thick, Thin, Contamination up to 6” in Length
2
Dirt, Oil Spot, Thick, Thin, Contamination up to 9” in Length
3
Dirt, Oil Spot, Thick, Thin, Contamination above 9” in Length
4
3.25 Calculation of Total Fault Based on 4-Point System:
Fabric Length:
yards
Roll weight x 1000 x 39.37 x 1.09361
Finish Dia x Finish GSM
Point of fault:
Point
Total point calculated x 100 x 36
Finish Dia x Fabric length
3.26 Remarks & Conclusion:
Grey fabric in the good condition and there are no faults in which it leaves knitting section so that before any bleaching, dyeing or finishing treatment has given to it. So that there are no faults found for knitting of fabric after dyeing process. Also the GSM and diameter of the fabric should meet the requirements.
4.1 DYEING:
Dyeing is usually among the last of the long line of manufacturing operations which lead to the end product.
4.2 DYEING CLASSIFICATION:
4.3 Auxiliary Substance of Dyeing:
Sequestering agent
Defoaming agent.(without defoaming agent dyeing may be uneven)
Wetting agent
Anticreasing agent
Antipilling agent
Levelling agent
Emulsifier
4.4 Flow Chart of Fabric Dyeing:
Fabric received from batching section
↓
Grey fabric inspection
↓
Batching
↓
Turning
↓
Sewing
↓
Fabric loading
↓
Pretreatment (Scouring & Bleaching)
↓
Enzyme (Antipilling)
↓
Dyeing
↓
Washing
↓
Fixing
↓
Softening/Finishing
↓
Unloading the dyed fabric
4.5 RAW MATERIALS FOR DYEING:
The raw materials used for production are-
Grey Fabric
Dyes and Chemicals
4.5.1 GREY FABRIC:
Following types of grey fabrics are dyed:
Single Jersey.
Lycra Single jersey.
Slab Single jersey.
Interlock.
Lacost.
Pique.
Rib.
Lycra Rib.
1×1 Rib
2×1 Rib
2×2 Rib & others
Sources:
The grey fabrics are produce from this industry. All the grey fabrics that are produce from this industry are dyed in dyeing section. After fulfill all order of this industry sometime they dyed fabric in sub contact.
4.5.2 Most common and usable dyes are:
Reactive Dyes (Cotton Dyeing).
Disperse Dyes (Polyester Dyeing
Dyeing with reactive dye:
Reactive Dye Stuff:
Reactive groups are present in the molecules of the reactive dyes. These dyes chemically react with fibres hence it is called reactive dyes. These type of dyes posses reactive groups which during the process of dyeing, reacts chemically with the fibre substrate to form a covalent bond so that chemically speaking it becomes a part of the fibre itself.
The reaction is as follows-
D-F-CH=CH2+ Cell-OH D-F-CH2- CH2-O-Cell
Properties of Reactive Dyes:
Anionic in nature
Soluble in water
It forms strong covalent bond with fibre
Their wet fastness & light fastness are good
They have better substantivity
They are used in alkaline condition
Influencing factors for dyeing:
The PH of the bath
The temperature of bath
The concentration of the electrolyte
The time of dyeing
The liquor ratio
4.5.3 CHEMICALS USED IN HCKL:
Table-08:
Aids
Chemicals Name
Price (Tk/Kg)
General Chemicals
Caustic Soda
45
Soda Ash Light
34
H2O2
26
Gluber Salts
17
Hydrose (BASF)
100
Common Salt
12
LASCOUR-717 (Detergent)
285
Acid
Acetic Acid
65
Buper Acid
140
Softener
Liansoft-S 300 (Cationic Softener)
214
Belsoft-200 (Non Ionic Softner)
202
Lian Smith-2231 (Silicon)
324
Power soft -180
380
Resoft NS- (White Softner)
Resomine-3000 (Silicon)
Softner V-16
200
Anticrease
Leancrease-651
10
Rybypon-173
91
Leveling Agent
Lianlevel723 (Cotton)
36
Polyester leveling
250
Rubygal CFTR
175
4.5.4 DYES USED IN HCKL:
Table-09:
Brand Name
Origin
Dyes Name
Price (kg/Tk)
Remazol
India
Remazole red -RR
690.42
Remazole Yellow -RR
692.00
Remazole Blue-RR
840.00
Remazole Brill Blue-R Special
1212.0
Remazole turquoise Blue G
394.00
Remazole Orange-RR
1034.0
Synozole
Korea
Synowhite 4BK 259.00
259.00
Synozole Yellow K3RS
414.00
Synozole Red K3BS
444.00
Synozole Nave Blue KBF
548.00
Synozole Blue KBR
1110.00
Synozol Red-HB
533.00
Synozol Yellow-HB
551.0
Synozole Nevy Blue-HB
55.00
Dychufix
China
Dychufix Red 3BXF
236.00
Dychufix Yellow 3RXF
251.00
Dychufix Yellow 4 GL
418.00
Dychufix Black BHC
304.00
Dychufix Orange 2RXF
462.00
Dychufix Black FWN
281.00
Disperse
China
Desperse Red -60 BFY
800.00
Desperse Yellow-4G
380.00
Desperse Blue 562 RL
675.00
Desperse Blue 60 BGF
875.00
Desperse navy Blue ECOG
400.00
Desperse Black ECOG
400.00
Dis- Orange –HF
700.00
Dis- Red -HF
800.00
Dis- Black-HF
850.00
Dis Navy Blue HF
1100.0
Dis- Blue- HF
1100.00
Dis-Yellow-HF
7500.00
Corazole
India
Cor- Yellow RD
624.00
Cor-Red RD
600.00
Cor- Blue- RD
656.00
Cor- Orange- RD
1000.00
Cor- Traquise Blue –G
360.00
Cor-Bri- Blue- R- Sp
1120.0
Cor- Bri –Blue- BB
920.00
Libafix
Germany
Libafix-Amber CA
2450.0
Libafix First Red CA
2250.0
Libafix- Blue -CA
2500.0
9.6 Dyeing Parameters:
9.6.1 PH Levels for Different Stages of Cotton Dyeing:
Table-10: PH Levels for Different Stages of Cotton Dyeing:
SL
PH in different stage
PH Range
Initial Bath pH
6.5~7.0.
Before Enzyme, bath pH
4.5~4.7.
After Enzyme & Aquachoron ,pH
5.5~6.0.
Before Scouring & Bleaching, pH (With Enzyme)
5.5~5.8.
Before Scouring & Bleaching, pH (Without Enzyme)
5.5~5.8.
Scouring & Bleaching, bath pH
10.0~10.5.
After Scouring & Bleaching, pH
8.5~9.0.
Before Leveling Chemicals, pH
6.5~7.0.
After Leveling Chemicals, pH
6.7~7.0
After Adding Dyes, pH
6.2~6.35
After Addition of Salt, pH
7.5~8.0.
After Addition of Soda, pH
10.5~11.0.
Before Hot Wash, Bath pH
6.8~7.2.
Hot Wash, bath pH
8.5~8.7.
Before Softener, bath pH
7.2~7.8.
After Softener Addition, bath pH
6.5~6.8.
4.6.2 PH Levels for Different Stages of Polyester Dyeing:
Table-11: PH Levels for Different Stages of Polyester Dyeing:
SL
Different stages of dyeing
PH range
1.
Initial bath pH
6.5~7.0.
2.
Scouring, bath pH
10.0~11.5.
3.
After Scouring, bath pH
8.5~9.0.
4.
Before Addition of Leveling Chemicals, pH
6.0~6.5.
5.
After Addition of Leveling Chemicals, pH
4.5~4.7.
6.
After Addition of Colors, bath pH
4.2~4.3.
7.
During Reduction Clearing, bath pH
10.5~11.5.
8.
Before Softener, bath pH
6.3~6.8.
9.
After Softener Addition, bath pH
5.8~6.2.
Table-12: Temperature of dyeing on cotton:
For Temperature
For cotton scouring
90-98 c
For cotton cold wash
60-70c
For cotton hot wash
80-90 c
For cotton acid wash
50-60 c
For cotton dyeing
80 c(for hot brand) & 60 c(for cold brand )
Table-13: Time of dyeing on cotton:
For Time
For scouring & bleaching
60-70 min
For reactive dyeing
60-80 min
For disperse dyeing
60-70 min
4.7 Pre-treatment Process:
Composition of Cotton:
Table-14: Consumption of cotton:
Particles Percentage
Cellulose 85.5%
Moisture 8.5%
Fax/Waxes 0.45%-1%
Mineral Substance 0.7%-1%
Pectins 0.7%-1.2%
Proteins 1.1%-1.9%
Various Organic Compound 0.5%-1.0%
4.8 KEY ACCESSORIES:
Key accessories used in pre-treatment process are:
Mixing Tank
Machine Tank
PH Meter
Eye protecting glass
Hand gloves
Sewing Machine
Gum boot
Hand lifter for carrying the batch
4.9 Scouring Process:
Gray fabric contains fax, waxes, and other impurities. The absorbance of the fabric is adversely affected due to the presence of these impurities. This leads to improper dyeing, printing and finishing in the subsequent process. These impurities are removed from the fabric by a chemical treatment. This chemical treatment is called scouring process.
The sequence for scouring process is as follows:
Take water in bath at required level
Load fabric in the machine
Add caustic soda solution
Add detergent, sequestering agent,Anti-creasing agent
Circular the fabric & raise the temperature at 100°C
Continue circulating the fabric for 30 min at constant temp.(100°C)
Rinse & Drain
Add acetic acid & raise the temperature at 55°C
Continue circulating the fabric for 10 min at constant temp.(55°C)
Rinse & Drain
Add detergent & raise the temperature at 80°C
Continue circulating the fabric for 10 min at constant temp.(80°C)
13)Rinse & Drain
4.10 Bleaching Process:
Bleaching is a process for removing natural nitrogenous coloring matters e.g.- dirt, dust, husk, broken seed, leaf etc from the fabric and make it white by oxidizing or chemical treatment.
The steps of bleaching process are as follows-
Take water in bath at required level
Load fabric in the machine
Add detergent, sequestering agent,Anti-creasing agent, Stabilizer
Add caustic soda solution
Circulate the fabric & raise the temperature at 60°C
Add hydrogen per oxide solution
Continue circulating the fabric for 5 min & raise the temperature at 95°C
Continue circulating the fabric for 25 min at constant temp.(95°C)
Continue circulating the fabric & decreased the temperature at 80°C
Rinse & Drain
Add Acetic Acid, hydrogen per oxide killer & raise the temperature at 55°C
Continue circulating the fabric for 10 min at constant temp.(55°C)
Rinse & Drain
Add detergent & raise the temperature at 80°C
Continue circulating the fabric for 10 min at constant temp.(80°C)
Rinse & Drain.
4.11 Product Quality Check:
To check the quality of products, following measures are taken-
Check the PH of the bath
Absorbency of the fabric
Hardness of the water
Impurities contamination of the water
Heating & Cooling of the Machine
4.12 DYEING SEQUENCE WITH RECIPES:
Light Color Process 100% Cotton :
Machine Wash:
Hydrose (2g/L) +Caustic (2g/L) +Foaming Agent (0.5g/L)
30 min at 90oc
Machine Washed
A. Acid (0.7g/L)
20min at 70oc
M/C Neutralized
Demineralization:
Detergent (1g/L)
Sequestering Agent (.5 g/L)
Ant creasing Agent (.5 g/L)
20min at 80oc
Scouring & Bleaching:
Detergent (1 g/L)
Sequestering Agent (.5 g/L)
Stabilizer (.8 g/L)
Caustic (3 g/L)
H2O2 (3 g/L)
60min at 98’c
Neutralizations (Scouring & Bleaching):
H2O2 Killer (.8 g/L)
A.Acid (1 g/L)
20min at 80’c
Enzyme Wash:
A.Acid (1 g/L)
Enzyme (1%)
55min at 50’c, PH =4.5
Dyeing:
Ant creasing Agent (.5 g/L)
Leveling Agent (1 g/L)
A. Acid (.2 g/L)
Dyes (According to shade %)
G. Salt (According to shade %)
Soda Ash (According to shade %)
60min at
Neutralization: (Dyeing)
A. Acid (1 g/L)
10min at 40-50’c
Soaping:
Soaping Agent (.5 g/L)
20min at 70-80’c
Fixing & Softening:
Fixing Agent (.5 g/l)
15min at 40’c
A. Acid (.5 g/L)
Softener (1.5 g/L)
20min at 40’c
Drain the bath
4.13 Dyeing Process of Cotton Fabric:
Dyeing sequence of cotton: (For white)
Dosing at 50° C
Wetting agent (Astros Scour B10.P)
Ant creasing Agent [Rocklin JES]
Sequestering Agent [Astros Quest AC]
Fabric Loading
Caustic dosing (10 min at 60°C)
Stabilizer Neorate PH -5.5 FN (Dosing time 5 min at 70°C)
H2O2 (Dosing 30 min at 70° C)
(Run time 10 min)
Temperature rise 90°C (2°C/min)
(Run time 60 min)
Cooling 80°C
Brightener dosing 30 min
Temps raise 98°C (2°C/min)
(Run time 40 minutes)
Cooling 80°C
Rinsing wash
Soaping
(Sample cutting)
Acid
(Enzyme if need)
Softener
Unload
4.14 Dyeing Sequence of Grey Mélange:
Process sequence:
Water load in the dyeing machine (L: R=1:10)
Fabric load in the machine
Dosing (1-5)
At 50 ºC
Dosing hydrogen per oxide
At 70ºC × 5 min
Steam to 80 ºC
Run time 10 min
Shade check (not ok)
Steam 90 º C × (10+10) minutes
Shade check ok
Dosing Enzyme at 80 º 10 min (H2O2 killer)
Over flow and drain
Softener dosing at 62 º C, 70%; 30minutes.
Then rest 30% dosing at the same temperature 15 minutes
Steam 80 º C
Over flow and drain.
Color (OBA) dosing at 60 ºC × (10+10+10+10) minutes.
Shade check not ok
Steam 60 º 10 min
Shade check ok
Over flow and drain.
4.15 Process Flow Chart of P/C Blend Fabric (65/35):
Color: Black
M: L -1:10
Polyester Part:
Sequence of polyester dyeing with curve: Dosing detergent
Dosing at 60°C
Acetic acid (for maintained PH =4.5)
Leveling agent
Buffer solution
Dyes
Color steam at 130°C
Shade check at 80°C
If not ok
Color add at 60°C
Color steam at 130°C
Shade check
If ok
Reduction Cleaning:
Hydrous
Caustic
Acetic Acid
Cotton Part:
Hot wash (Detergent + caustic + Astros Scour B10.P)
Temperature: 95C; Run time: 30 minutes
Over flow
Drain
(Dosing at normal temperature)
Run time 20 minutes at the temperature 80° C
Acid for
Neutralization
Overflow
Drain
(Dosing at60 °C temperature)
Run time 5 minutes at the temperature 60° C
Leveling agent
Salt dosing at 60°C 10 min
Color dosing at 25 min at 60°
Soda dosing 30 min in 3 steps
Color steam 60°C (For normal brand dyes)
Color wash
Acid Wash
Soaping (at 70°C 25 min)
Soaping wash (20 min)
Fixing if buyers requirement 10min at 80°C
Fixing wash 15 minutes
Softener (10 minutes)
UN load
Dyeing curve:
- Leveling
Buffer soln
Acid
130°C × 40 min
60°C
Color
20’
2 °C/min
Heating
Drain
2 °C/min
20 min at 80°C
Reduction Cleaning:
-Acetic Acid
-caustic
-Hydrous
Drain/BD
60° C
Heating
60 min at 60°C
Cotton Part:
Anticreaasinagent Leveling agent
-Hydrous
Unload
50° C
Heating
9.15 Sequence of Polyester Dyeing with Curve:
Dosing detergent
Acetic acid (for maintained PH =4.5)
Dosing at 60°C
Leveling agent
Buffer solution
Dyes
Color steam at 130°C
Shade check at 80°C
If not ok
Color add at 60°C
Color steam at 130°C
Shade check
If ok
Acetic acid =1gm/L
Caustic =1 gm/L
Hydrose =2 gm/L
Reduction cleaning
Neutralization by acetic acid (PH=5.5)
Unload
9.16 Process Sequence of Viscose dyeing:
Water filling
Fabric loading
Hot Wash, 80°C, 10min
Drain
Water filling
Chemical Auxiliaries (Anti creasing agent, Sequestering agent, Leveling agent)
pH check(6.5-7.5)
Reactive dye (dosing 30 minutes)
(Run 15 Min, Temp50oC)
Salt dosing 2 step,60°C
Run (15+15)min
Soda 60 min dosing
Run 60min
Shade check
Cooling
Drain
A- Acid (Neutralization)
Drain
Soaping
Drain
Hot Wash (2 or 3 times)
Cool wash
Shade check
Fabric unload
4.17 Common Dyeing Faults and Their Remedies:
1. Uneven dyeing:
Causes:
- Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).
- Improper color dosing.
- Using dyes of high fixation property.
- Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
- Lack of control on dyeing m/c.
Remedies:
- By ensuring even pretreatment.
- By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
- Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
- Proper controlling of dyeing m/c
2. Batch to Batch Shade variation:
Causes:
- Fluctuation of Temperature.
- Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals.
- Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals.
- Dyes lot variation.
- Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio.
- Improper pretreatment.
Remedies:
- Use standard dyes and chemicals.
- Maintain the same liquor ratio.
- Follow the standard pretreatment procedure.
- Maintain the same dyeing cycle.
- Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade.
- Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same time and temperature in the process.
-The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily.
3. Patchy dyeing effect:
Causes:
- Entanglement of fabric.
- Faulty injection of alkali.
- Improper addition of color.
- Due to hardness of water.
- Due to improper salt addition.
- Dye migration during intermediate dyeing.
- Uneven heat in the machine, etc.
Remedies:
- By ensuring proper pretreatment.
- Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
- Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor.
- Proper salt addition.
4. Crease mark:
Causes:
- Poor opening of the fabric rope
- Shock cooling of synthetic material
- If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal
- Due to high speed m/c running
Remedies:
- maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
- Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature.
- Reducing the m/c load.
- Higher liquor ratio.
5. Dye spot:
Causes:
- Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath.
- Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.
Remedies:
- By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals.
- By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer, so that the
Large un-dissolved particles are removed.
6. Wrinkle mark:
Causes:
- Poor opening of the fabric rope.
- Shock cooling of synthetic material.
- High temperature entanglement of the fabric.
Remedies:
- Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
- Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature.
- Higher liquor ratio.
7. Softener Mark:
Causes:
- Improper mixing of the Softener.
- Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener.
- Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
Remedies:
- Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
- Proper Mixing of the softener before addition.
- Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener.
4.18 MACHINES USED IN DYEING SECTION:
Machine No: 01
Name of m/c : Which dyeing machine.
Brand : Tong Geng
Origin : Taiwan.
Capacity : 50 Kg
Temperature : Up to 140°c
Machine No: 02
Name of machine : Winch dyeing machine
Brand : Tong Geng
Origin : Taiwan
Capacity : 200kg
Temperature : Up to 140C
Machine No : 03
Name of machine : Winch dyeing machine
Brand : Tong Geng
Origin : Taiwan
Capacity : 400kg
Temperature : Up to 140C
Machine No : 04
Name of machine : Winch dyeing machine
Brand : Tong Geng
Origin : Taiwan
Capacity : 600kg
Temperature : Up to 140C
Machine No : 05
Name of machine : Winch dyeing machine
Brand : Tong Geng
Origin : Taiwan
Capacity : 800kg
Temperature : Up to 98C
Machine No : 06
Name of machine : Winch dyeing machine
Brand : Tong Geng
Origin : Taiwan
Capacity : 400kg
Temperature : Up to 98C
Machine No : 07
Name of machine : Winch dyeing machine
Brand : Tong Geng
Origin : Taiwan
Capacity : 200kg
Temperature : Up to 98C
Machine No : 08
Name of machine : slitting machine
Brand :ACC
Origin : turkey
Capacity : 8tons/day
Temperature : Up to 140C
Machine No : 09
Name of machine : Stenter Machine
Brand : ACC
model : TPG 2400-6
Origin : turkey
Heater type : gas
No. of chamber : 06
Power : 152kw
Volt : 380 v.
Air pressure : 6 Atm
Heater pressure : 100 MBar
Capacity : 8 tons/day
Machine No : 10
Name of machine : Fabric inspection Machine
Brand : OSHIMA
model : CCS- 2400
Origin : Taiwan
4.19 Management Organ gram of Dyeing Section:
4.20 PHOTO GALLERY OF DYEING SECTION:
Fig: 13 Winch dyeing m/c(1 nozzle) Fig:14 Winch dyeing m/c(2 nozzles’)
Fig:15 Winch dyeing m/c(3 nozzles) Fig:16 Winch dyeing m/c(4 nozzles)
5.1 Finishing:
Textile finishing , in a restricted sense , is the term used for a series of processes to which all bleached , dyed , printed and certain grey fabrics are subjected before they are put on the market . In fact , finishing includes the final treatment of every kind of fabric made from every kind of fiber . According to Textile Terms and Definition the Finishing describe as, “Descriptive processes, physical or chemical, applied to a substrate to produce a desired effect”.
5.2 Objective of Finishing:
Improving the appearance – Luster, whiteness, etc.
Improving the feel, this depends on the handle of the material and its softness, suppleness, fullness, etc.
Wearing qualities, non – soiling, ant crease, ant shrink, comfort, etc.
Special properties required for particular uses–water–proofing, flame proofing, etc.
Covering of the faults in the original cloth.
Increasing the weight of the cloth.
5.3 Finishing Effects:
Easy Care.
Crease recovery.
Dimensional stability.
Good abrasion resistance.
Improved tear strength.
Soft or stiff handle.
7. Shine or luster.
5.4 Flow Chart of Textile Finishing (Open Fabric):
Slitting
↓
Stentering
↓
Compacting
↓
Final inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Bailing
↓
Delivery
5.5 Flow Chart of Textile Finishing (Tube Fabric):
Dewatering
↓
Drying
↓
Compacting
↓
Final inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Bailing
↓
Delivery
5.6 Types of Finishing:
Chemical finishing:
Chemical reaction of auxiliaries with fibers.
Application of the handle modifying products / additives.
Mechanical finishing:
Mechanical treatment with machines
10.7 Slitting Machine and Squeezer:
Machine specification:
Brand name: CORINO MACCHINE
Type/model no: Super slit
Company: Italy
Year: 2011
5.8 Slitter Machine:
Slitter machine is used for tubular knit fabric to make it in open form. In open form fabric finishing line; slitter machine is used after hydro-extractor, de-watering and drying machine.
Slitting is a process that is applied for cutting the tubular fabric through the intended break Wales line on lengthwise direction prior to stenter processing. During slitting, it is required to be aware about the cutting line otherwise, fabric faults can be occurred there.
5.9 Objectives of Slitting:
Following objectives are achieved by the slitting machine.
To open tube fabric according to specific needle mark.
To prepare the fabric for next stentering process.
5.10 Function of the Machine:
Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing
To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening of the fabric and ready for stentering
Delivered fabric in crease free state
Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of compressed air passing by a nozzle or air sprayer
It can control the diameter of fabric and GSM and shrinkage by over feeding mechanism.
5.11 Main Parts of Slitter Machine and their Functions:
Following are the main machine parts and their functions.
1. Rotary Blade: Rotary blade is used for cutting the fabric through break Wales line.
2. Ring: Ring is use to help the cutting process.
3. Guide Roller: After slitting, plaiting of the fabric is done. Guide roller guides the fabric to plaiting.
4. Plaiting: Open fabric is make plait by plaiting.
5. Sensor: Sensor is used for identify the specific Wales line. It makes sense for cutting through break Wales’s line.
5.12 Checking Parameters of Slitter:
Following parameters are checked after slitting:
Cutting Line Check: Fabric cutting line is checked by the operator of the slitting machine. Operator checks that the rotary blade cut fabric through break Wales’s line or not.
Bow and Slant check: Bow and slant is checked in the delivery side of the machine by the operator.
Fabric Faults: Various fabric faults also checked in slitting process.
5.13 Working Principle of Slitter Machine:
The slitting m/c has 4 units - initial squeezer, de-twisting, slitter and padder. After dyeing completed and falling of water from fabric the fabric is fed in slitting m/c. So it is necessary to remove some water initially for the case of further processing in this m/c. The initial squeezer does this work. The de-twisting unit removes twists that may present in tubular rope form fabric. This unit has 3 de-twisting rollers, one rotation drum and 2 feeler rollers with sensors. By these rollers it detects twist in fabric and removes by rotating rope fabric in opposite direction. Before slitting there is a blower which blows air to open the tubular fabric & makes it easy to pass over cigger. The cigger can be extended in circumference and opens the tubular fabric in full circumference. Slitting is done by using open mark detecting golden eye by around knife. Then the fabric passes through the padder where washing or chemical treatment is done. Squeezer is used to remove 60-70% of water. After removing water width is controlled by stretcher and fabric is delivered by folding device.
Fig- 17: Line diagram of slitting machine:
5.14 Operational parameter:
Set the padder pressure as required (3-7bar)
Set the speed as much as possible (30-80m/min).
18 Cutting Knife (round) 19 DETWISTER
Fig-18: Fabric Pass through Knife Fig-19: Fabric Pass through Detwister
5.15 Stenter Machine:
5.15.1 Process Definition:
Stenter can be defined as a finishing process in which the open width forms of the fabric is treated to set up the required width weight & fabric texture as per customer’s specification. These requirements from the customer are achieved by a single process.
5.15.2 Functions of Stenter Machines:
Heat set: Heat setting is done by the stenter for lycra fabric, synthetic and blended fabric.
Finishing chemical: Finishing chemical apply on fabric by the stenter.
Loop control: Loop control of the knit fabric is controlled.
Moisture: Moisture of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
Spirility: Spirality controlled by the stenter.
Drying: Fabric is dried by the stentering process.
Shrinkage: Shrinkage property of the fabric is controlled.
Curing treatment: Curing treatmentb for resin, water repellent fabric is done by the stenter.
GSM control: If overfeed increases, then GSM increases and vice versa.
Width control: The width is controlled by means of Spreader, Expander.
Decrease Bowing effect
Softener application
Surface coating for Teflon finish.
5.15.3 Components of Stenter Machine:
Feed zone
Centering device
Chemical padding zone
Squeezing roller
Chemical tray
Bowing control zone
Bowing roller (rubber roller, no of roller -2)
Sensor (no of sensor -6)
Uncurling roller
Chain entry zone
Uncurling device (both side of the chain entry)
Sensor (both side of the chain entry)
Brush roller (for attaching the fabric with the pin of the chain, no of brush roller -4)
Selvedge gumming device with gum box under the chain entry
Drying zone
Gas rotamatic burner (10)
Cooling zone
Delivery zone
Relax R/r
Padder
Pin roller
PLC profivassleeve converter.
Plaiter roller
Take up roller
5.15.4 Working Principle of Stenter Machine:
The fabric is collected from the batcher to the scray and then it is passed through the padders where the finishes are applied and some times shade variation is corrected.The fabric is entered into the mahlo (weft straigtner) the function of the mahlo is to set the bow and also weave of the fabric is griped by the clips and pins are also provided but the pins has a disadvantage that they pins make holes at the selvedge but the stretchning of the pins are greater than the clips.these clips and pins are joined to endless chain.there are 8 to 10 chambers provided on the machine each chamber contains a burner and filters are provided to separate dust from air.the circulating fans blow air from the base to the upper side and exhaust fans sucks all the hot air within the chambers. Attraction rollers ar provided to stretch the warp yarn.
After stentering we can increase the width of the fabric up to 1.5-2 inch.The speed of the machine is about 7-150 m/min.3 meters fabric can run in each chamber.temperature is adjusted that according to the fabric as for,
PC 210 c
Cotton 110-130 c
After dyeing 160-170c and after print 130-140c.
5.15.5 Machine specification:
Brand name: Platinum.
Country: KOREA.
Other specification:
Speed range: Max: 110m/min. Use: 10-45 m/min.
Temperature range:
Max: 500 C
Use: 180 C-190C (For half feeder)
190C-200C (For full feeder)
No of motor in drying unit: 06
Total no of motor: 06
Max dia: 295cm.
Min dia: 95cm.
Steam pressure: 2 bar
Air pressure: 10 bar
Applied for: Open width fabric.
5.16 Compactor Machine:
Machine specification:
Brand name: FERRARO
Type/model no: COMPTEX-RE 2800.
Company: ITALY.
No of motor: 17
Over feed = Max + 35%, Min -35%.
Machine speed = Max 32m/min, Min 4m/min.
Temperature range: 100-2000C
Maximum width =240cm
Minimum width =100cm
Applied for: Open fabric
Left over feed: -20%+20%
Right over feed: -20%+60%
High production: -20%+60%
Front over feeding cylinder: -20%+60%
Middle belt: -20%+60%
Fig-20: Compactor process
5.16.1 Function of the Machine:
To compact the fabric
To control the shrinkage
To maintain proper width and G.S.M
Heating system:
Steam
5.16.2 Main parts of the machine:
Heating chamber
Blower (2, one at the entry chain zone for uncurling and another at the entry of compacting zone)
Synthetic blanket as a conveyor,
Folder
Exhaust fan
Unpinning cylinder (-40%+40%)
Belt cylinder (-40%+40%)
Uncurling device at entry of compacting zone.
sensor
brush roller
5.18 Photo Gallery of Finishing Section:
Fig-21: De-watering m/c Fig-22: Slitting m/c
Fig-23: Stenter m/c Fig-24: Stenter m/c
Fig-25: Compacting m/c Fig-26: Tumble Dryer m/c
6.1 Introduction:
Garment manufacturing is an assembly- oriented activity with a great range of raw materials, product types, production volumes, supply chains, retail markets and associated technologies. Companies range from small family business to multinationals.
6.2 Flow Chart of Garments Manufacturing Process / Technology:
A basic garment manufacturing flow chart is presented in the below:
Design
↓
Pattern Making
↓
Fit Sample Making
↓
Production Pattern Making
↓
Grading
↓
Marker Making
↓
Fabric Spreading
↓
Fabric Cutting
↓
Cutting Parts Sorting or Bundling
↓
Sewing
↓
Garments Inspection
↓
Garments Ironing and Finishing
↓
Final Inspection
↓
Garments Packing
↓
Cartooning
↓
Shipment
6.2.1 Each process of garments manufacturing flow chart is discussed in the below with the details:
1. Design:
Design is provided by the buyer. After placing an order buyer send the technical sheet and art-work of an order to the merchandiser. This process is done by both manually or by using computer.
2. Pattern Making:
By following technical sheet and art-work, pattern of each garment style should be made. It’s done by both manually and by using computerized method.
3. Fit Sample Making:
The main target of making a fit sample is to follow the details instruction about that garments style. After making it’s sent to the buyer to rectify. It’s done by manually.
4. Production Pattern Making:
For bulk production, allowance added here with net dimension. Production Pattern Making is done by both manually and by using computer.
5. Grading:
During an order confirmation, the buyer suggests about the size ratio of that order. So that order should be graded according to the buyer’s instruction. Grading is done by manually or by using computer.
6. Marker Making:
Marker is a very thin paper which contains all the parts of a particular garment. To make the cutting process easy, it’s must be needed. Marker making process can be done by both manually and by using computer.
7. Fabric Spreading:
To cut the fabric properly fabric is spread in lay form. Fabric Spreading is done by manually or by using computerized method.
8. Fabric Cutting:
Fabrics have to cut here according to marker of garments. Fabric Cutting process is done by using manual method or computerized method.
9. Cutting Parts Sorting or Bundling:
Here, cutting parts have to sort out or make bundling to send these easily into the next process. This process is done by manually.
10. Sewing:
All the parts of a garment are joined here to make a complete garment. Sewing process is done by manually.
11. Garments Inspection:
After completing sewing, inspection should be done here to make fault free garments. Garments Inspection is done by using manual method.
12. Garments Ironing and Finishing:
Here garments are treated by steam; also required finishing should be completed here. This process is done by using manual method.
13. Final Inspection:
Finally the complete garments are inspected here according to the buyer’s specification. Final Inspection is done by manual method.
14. Garments Packing:
Complete garments are packed here by using buyers instructed poly bag. Garments packing are done by using manual method.
15. Cartooning:
To minimize the damages of garments, all the garments have to cartooned by maintaining buyers instruction. This process is done by manually.
16. Shipment:
After completing all the required processes it’s finally send to the buyer.
6.3 Departments in Garment Manufacturing Unit:
6.4 Garments Assembly Machine:
1. Industrial Single Needle Lockstitch Machine.
2. Industrial Double Needle Lockstitch.
3. Industrial Bartack Stitching Machine.
4. Industrial Feed of The Arm.
5. Industrial 4 Needle 8 Thread Kansai Special Machine.
6. Industrial Double 2 Needle 4 Thread Chain Stitch Machine.
7. Industrial Single Thread Chain Stitch Machine.
8. Industrial Overlock Stitch Machine.
9. Industrial Flat Lock Stitching Machine.
10. Industrial Button Holing Machine.
11. Industrial Button Attaching Machine.
12. Industrial Blind Stitching Machine.
13. Industrial Zig Zag Stitching Machine
14. Industrial Rib Cutter Machine
15. Industrial Snap Button Attaching Machine
11.5 Machine Specification:
No of the Machine : 01
Name of The Machine : Industrial Lock Stitch
Model no : DDL-5530 N
Stitch Group : Lock Stitch
Brand Name : Juki
Country of Origin : Japan
Stitch per Minute : 1500-5500
Seam Class : Super Imposed
Needle Size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20, 21
T.P.I. : 2.5”
Needle Name : DB * 1
No of Needle : One Needle / Bobbin No 1
No of the Machine: 02
Name of The Machine : Industrial Bartack Machine
Model no : LK-1850
Stitch Group : Lock Stitch
Brand Name : Juki
Country of Origin : Japan
Stitch per Minute : 1800-3600
Seam Class : Super Imposed
Needle Size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20, 21
T.P.I. : 7”
Needle Name : DP * 5
No of Needle : One Needle
No of the Machine : 03
Name of The Machine : Industrial 2 Needle Lock Stitch
Model no : LH-3188
Stitch Group : Lock Stitch
Brand Name : Juki
Country of Origin : Japan
Stitch per Minute : 4000-4500
Seam Class : Super Imposed
Needle Size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20, 21
T.P.I. : 5”
Needle Name : DP * 5
No of Needle : 2 Needle
No of the Machine : 04
Name of The Machine : Industrial Feed of The Arm Machine
Model no : MS-1190 M
Stitch Group : Chain Stitch
Brand Name : Juki
Country of Origin : Japan
Stitch per Minute : 5000-5500
Seam Class : Super Imposed
Needle Size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20, 21
T.P.I. : 8”
Needle Name : UY * 128 GAS
No of Needle : 2 Needle
No of the Machine : 05
Name of The Machine : Industrial Kansai Special Machine
Model no : DFB_1404 PSF
Stitch Group : Chain Stitch
Brand Name : Kansai
Country of Origin : Japan
Stitch per Minute : 4000-4500
Seam Class : Bound Seam
Needle Size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20, 21
T.P.I. : 16”
Needle Name : UO * 113 GAS
No of Needle : 4 Needle
No of the Machine : 06
Name of The Machine : Industrial Double Thread Chain Stitch Machine
Model no : MH-481-5
Stitch Group : Chain Stitch
Brand Name : Juki
Country of Origin : Japan
Stitch per Minute : 1800-6500
Seam Class : Super Imposed
Needle Size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20, 21
Needle Name : TV * 5
No of Needle : One Needle
No of the Machine : 07
Name of The Machine : Industrial 5 Thread Overlock Stitch Machine
Model no : MO-3616
Stitch Group : Chain Stitch
Brand Name : Juki
Country of Origin : Japan
Stitch per Minute : 6500-8500
Seam Class : Super Imposed
Needle Size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20, 21
Needle Name : DC * 1
No of Needle : 2 Needle
No of the Machine : 08
Name of The Machine : Industrial Flat Bed Flatlock Stitch Machine
Model no : W-810B
Stitch Group : Chain Stitch
Brand Name : Kansai
Country of Origin : Japan
Stitch per Minute : 6000
Seam Class : Super Imposed
Needle Size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20, 21
Needle Name : UY * 128 GAS
No of Needle : 2/3 Needle
No of the Machine : 09
Name of The Machine : Industrial Button Holing Machine
Model no : LBA 781
Stitch Group : Lock Stitch
Brand Name : Juki
Country of Origin : Japan
Stitch per Minute : 3000-3200
Seam Class : Super Imposed
Needle Size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20, 21
Needle Name : DP * 5
No of Needle : One Needle / Bobbin No 1
No of the Machine : 10
Name of The Machine : Button Attaching Machine
Model no : MB-377
Stitch Group : Chai Stitch
Brand Name : Juki
Country of Origin : Japan
Stitch per Minute : 1500
Seam Class : Super Imposed
Needle Size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20, 21
T.P.I. : 4-5”
Needl Name : TV * 5
No of Needle : One Needle
No of the Machine : 11
Name of The Machine : Industrial Blind Stitch
Model no : CMB-3938
Stitch Group : Chain Stitch
Brand Name : Brother
Country of Origin : Japan
Stitch per Minute : 2500
Seam Class : Super Imposed
Needle Size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20, 21
T.P.I. : 5”
Needle Name : LW * 6 T
No of Needle : One Needle
No of the Machine : 12
Name of The Machine : Industrial Zig Zag Stitching Machine
Model no : LZ-391 N
Stitch Group : Lock Stitch
Brand Name : Juki
Country of Origin : Japan
Stitch per Minute : 1500-5500
Seam Class : Super Imposed
Needle Size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20, 21
T.P.I. : 6”
Needle Name : DB * 1
No of Needle : One Needle / Bobbin No 1
No of the Machine : 13
Name of The Machine : Rib Cutter Machine
Model no : SM-601
Stitch Group : Lock Stitch
Brand Name : Idea
Country of Origin : China
6.6 Process Flow in Garment Manufacturing Unit:
6.7 Process Flow in Merchandising Department:
6.8 Sampling Department:
Responsibilities of sampling department:
Getting clarifications about style details from merchandiser.
Checking pattern’s workability.
Preparation of different samples and getting the buyer’s approval.
Informing quality related problems, encountered during preparing samples, to QC.
Minimizing operations and consumption.
11.9 Fabric Store Department:
Functions of the fabric store department
Receive the fabric as per BOM
Fabric inspection (four point system)
Conduct fabric test (e.g. Shrinkage, color fastness etc.)
Issue to the production department as per the requirement.
Fabric audit procedure
10% random inspection for sampling or lining or net fabric.
Inspection for production order fabric as per buyer’s requirement.
Perform GSM cutting.
Perform shrinkage test.
Check the fabric for the bowing or skewing.
Check fabrics roll for the defects.
Allocate points to the defects.
Fig-26: GSM Cutter
6.10 Trims and Accessories Store Department:
Functions of the trims and accessories department
To receive incoming material.
To check material for attribute & variables.
To arrange the incoming material in allocated racks.
To issue trims as per BOM for sampling and production & other material as per requirement.
To maintain a record of incoming & outgoing material.
Pic-1: Accessories
6.11 Spreading and Cutting Department:
6.11.1 Spreading and cutting flow process:
6.11.2 Planning:
Marker planning:
The results of cut order planning are cutting orders that direct marker planning and cut planning.
The purpose of marker planning is to determine the most efficient combination of sizes and shades for each order and to produce the best fabric yield and equipment utilization.
One cutting order may require several markers to achieve optimum efficiency.
A lay is a stack of fabric plies that have been prepared for cutting.
Lay planning is the basis of managing cutting room labor and table space.
Spreading and cutting schedules are affected by:
table length,
type of equipment,
spread length,
spreading time and
Cutting time.
Marker making:
Is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified style, fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires time, skill and concentration)
Marker making is a critical step in the manufacturing process.
By retaining strict control over this critical step, they keep the fabric consumption as low as possible.
It also ensures that the issues that affect quality will be given proper attention. These include placing patterns on grain, keeping patterns paired, and attending to details such as drill holes and notches.
Depending on the relative efficiency of each marker produced, the company may save or waste thousands of dollars a year
Pic-2
Marker Efficiency:
Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100%
Total area of the marker plan
It is determined for fabric utilization
Minimum waste
Factors affecting marker efficiency
Fabric characteristics (fabric width, length of design repeat etc.)
Shape of Pattern pieces (large pieces – less flexibility)
Grain requirements
6.11.2 Spreading:
Spreading is the processes of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table cutting table or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process
Spread or lay is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker
Requirement of spreading :
Shade sorting of cloth pieces.
Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability..
Alignment of plies.
Correct ply tension.
Elimination of fabric faults.
Avoidance of distortion in the spread.
Spreading equipment:
Spreading surfaces ( table, pin table, vacuum table)
Spreading machines.
6.11.3 Cutting
Process Flow Chart of Fabric Cutting Department:
Pattern received from pattern department
↓
Cutting ratio received from merchandiser
↓
Marker making
↓
Fabric received from the store
↓
Fabric Checking
↓
Fabric Spreading
↓
Marker placing on to the lay
↓
Cutting the fabric
↓
Numbering
↓
Checking
↓
Sorting and Bundling
↓
Send to the sewing department
Cutting Machine:
Fig-27: Straight knife cutting m/C Fig-28: Band knife cutting m/c
Fig-29: Round knife cutting m/c Fig-30: Die cutting m/c
Fig-31: Rib cutting m/c Fig-33: Leaser cutting m/c
6.11.4 Sewing:
Process Flow Chart for Garments Sewing Department:
Product analysis
↓
Set up target for production
↓
Set up machine layout on the basis of target
↓
Set up operator layout on the basis of target
↓
QC check of product
↓
Line balancing
↓
Line setup
↓
Distribution all the processes
↓
Cutting parts received section
↓
Cutting parts distribution to the operator and helper
↓
Complete parts making individually
↓
Online QC check
↓
Online quality audit
↓
Counting output and checking with the target
↓
Final quality check (for each Garment)
Ticketing
Tickets carry details: style no, size, ply no, bundle no., date issued,
Operations may be incorporated for payment purposes, control of work and facilitating quality control.
Sewing Machine:
Fig-33: Sewing m/c
Stitch forming devices:
The bobbin of a lock stitch machine:
Fig-34:Raised bed Fig-35 :Flat bed
Fig-36: Cylinder bed Fig-37: Feed of Arm
Fig-38: Post bed
Seams and Stitches:
Garments are shaped and formed in three ways:
materials molded to a form,
fabric pieces cut to shape and assembled by bonding, and
Pieces cut to shape and sewn.
Classification of seams:
Superimposed seam
Lap seam
Bound seam
Flat seam
Edge finishing
Fig-39: Edge finishing Fig-40: Bound seam
Fig-41: Superimposed seam Fig 42: Lap seam
Fig-43: Flat seam
Stitch Classification:
1.Stitch Class 100 ( Single thread chain stitch )
2. Stitch Class 200 ( Hand stitch )
3. Stitch Class 300 ( Lock Stitch )
4. Stitch Class 400 ( Multi thread chain stitch )
5. Stitch Class 500 ( Over lock neatening )
6. Stitch Class 600 ( Covering chain stitch )
6.12 Cost Sheet & Consumption Sheet Preparation:
6.12.1 Garment Costing:
In order to achieve perfect garment costing, one must know about all the activities including purchase of fabrics, sewing, packing, transport, overheads, etc.
The freight charges for the Men's Basic T-shirt. Price of garment estimation is given :
Particulars
Light colors
Medium colors
Dark colors
34's combed yarn
Tk.135.00
Tk.135.00
Tk.135.00
Fabric cost per garment
Tk.38.06
Tk.40.13
Tk.44.27
Cost of Trims
Tk.0.85
Tk.0.85
Tk.0.85
CMT Charges
Tk.11.00
Tk.11.00
Tk.11.00
Cost of accessories
Tk.1.35
Tk.1.35
Tk.1.35
Rejection of garments (commonly 3%)
Tk.1.50
Tk.1.50
Tk.1.50
Cost of Garment
Tk.52.76
Tk.54.83
Tk.58.97
Local Transport
Tk.1.00
Tk.1.00
Tk.1.00
Profit@15% appro.
Tk.7.90
Tk.8.20
Tk.8.90
Commission/ pc
Tk.2.00
Tk.2.00
Tk.2.00
Price of Garment
Tk.63.66
Tk.66.03
Tk.70.87
During the fixation of FOB price of a garment following notes are to be followed carefully:
1. Cost of fabrics/Dzn. garments.
2. Cost of Accessories/Dzn.garments.
3. C.M (Cost of Manufacturing) /Dzn. Garments.
4. Cost of embellishment (if any) likes print, embroidery, etc
5. Commercial cost.6.Commission (if any)
Fabrics Price:
Knit fabric price is the sum of the below factors-
1. Yarn price per kg (approx $6.40)
2. Fabric price per yard (approx $0.15)
3. Dyeing price per kg (approx $1.5)
4. Finishing price per kg (approx $0.50)
Thus the fabric price per kg comes ($6.40+$0.15+$1.5+$0.50)= $8.55 Fabrics consumption for a European T-Shirt is 3.00 kgs per dozon. So fabrics price per dozon is (3.00 * 8.55) = $25.65
7.1 Quality Management system in Impress- Birds
Group of Industry
Quality Assurance
On-line Off-line
Online quality Control:
7.3. Flow chart for quality assurance
Yarn test sample inspection
Recorded on yarn test report
Grey fabric inspection
Finished fabric inspection
Recorded on finished fabric inspection report
If passed
if failed
non correctional
Rejected
Send for lab test
Correction able
Send for corrective action as required
If passed
if failed
Delivery to finished store
send for corrective action as required
8.4 Analysis of different types of faults
Recorded on grey fabric 4 point inspection report
UTILITY SERVICESS
Power & utilities Section:
Description of m/c
no.of m/c
Capacity
Generated Power:
Prime power generation ,
1Unit
636kW
Cruascar Gas Generator
Model: FGLD 480
Origin: Spain
Stand by: Diesel Generator,
1Unit
140 kW
puma, Origin: England
A. Sub station
1000kVA
Total connected load
1776 kW
Air Compressor:
Kaeser Screw Compressor,
2 Units
8M3 /MIN
Model: AS44, 30 kW,4M3/MIN. each
Omgersp:-Rand
1Unit
8M3 /MIN
Reciprocating Compressor,
Model: SSR ML-5057.5kW
CAPACITY of air disharge
Ingersol- Rand
2 Units
4.40 M3 /MIN
Reciprocating Compressor,
Model: 3000.22 kW
SWAN Reciprocating
1 M3 /MIN
Compressor, Model: C4080, 10 kW
Total air discharge capacity
21.4M3 /MIN
Description of WATER Pump
no.of m/c
Capacity
Centrifugal pump for water supply to dyeing & others Section
1
100m3/h
20HP Pedrollo pump each pump , 1, 000L/min flow rate
4Unit
4,000 L/min
10HP Pedrollo pump each pump , 600L/min flow rate
1Unit
600 L/min
5.5HP Pedrollo pump each pump , 350L/min flow rate
1Unit
350 L/min
Spare pump motor Pedrollo 20HP
1Unit
1,000 L/min
Boiler:
Ciever Brooks Boiler 10 tons /hr
1 set
Prime power Generator:
Brand name :GUASCOR
ORIGIN:Spain
Model: FGLD 480
Stand by voltage: 380 Kw,795kVA
Prime voltage: 636 Kw,1208kVA
Phase: 3
Weight:1845kg
Diesel Generator:
Brand name :KOMATSU
Origin: SINGAPORE
Model: EGS 630-3
Stand by voltage: 440Kw,550kVA
Prime voltage: 440Kw,550kVA
Phase: 3
Weight: 3800kg
Boiler:
Brand name :Cleaver Brooks
ORIGIN: U.S.A
Model: CB 700-650
Slno.:L 94002
Max. pressure:200psi
MAINTENANCE
OBJECTIVES OF MAINTENACE.
To keep the factory plants, equipment, machine, tools, in an optimum condition.
To ensure specified accuracy to product and time schedule of delivery to customer.
To keep the downtime of machines miniumthes to have control over the production program.
To keep the production cycle within the stipulated range to modify the machine tools to meet the need for production.
Maintenance Tools, Equipments& their function:
Name of Tools Functions
Hammaer
To give shape
Slide Wrench
Tightening & opening bolt
Spanner
Tightening & opening bolt
PliarCutting,Holding, Joining Wire
Hacksaw
Cutting.
Pipe WrenceTightening ,opening,gripping pipe.
Chisel
Shaping, Cutting.
File
Shaping.
Clamp
Gripping.
Name of EquipmentsFunctions
Grinding m/c
Grinding.
Cutting m/c
Cutting.
Drill m/c
Drilling.
Shaping m/c
Shaping.
Lathe m/c
To make something.
Bending m/c
Bending.
MAINTENACE PROCEDURE:
Normally preventive maintenance is used. During
maintenance period following points should be checked.
CHECK LIST OF DIFFERENT PARTS
Maintenanc : Mechanical Machine : Dyeing
SL.Items need to be checked &serviced
1.
Grease the m/c bearing.
2.
Complete cleaning of m/c.
3.
Cleaning of drain valves, replace seals if required.
4.
Check air supply filters ,regulators auto drain seals.
5.
Clean filters element & blow out
6.
Greasing of unloading roller bearing .
7.
Checking of oil level and bolts of unloading roller gearbox.
8.
Checking of unloading roller coupling and packing.
9.
Checking and cleaning (if required )of main vessel level indicator.
10
. Check the oil level of pump bearing and refill if required .
11
. Check the function of heat and cool modulating valves.
12
. Check all door seals.
MAINTENANCE: ELECTRICAL
MACHINE : DYEING MACHING
SL. ITEMES NEED TO BE CHECKED & SERVICED
Check & clean fluff & dirt at dirt at all motor fan covers.
Check all motors terminals.
Check main panels ( by using compressed air ).
Check panel cooling fan and clean its filter.
Clean main pump inverter and its cooling fan.
Check all circuit breaker, magnetic conductors and relays.
Check current setting of all circuit preacher and motor over load.
Visual checking of all power and control cables.
Check all pressure switches.
Check calibration of main vessel and all addition tank.
Check all pneumatic solenoids.
Check calibration of heating or cooling modulating valve.
Check setting of tangle sector.
Check setting and operation of lid safely switches.
Check all emergency switches.
Check all indicating lamps.
Check all on/off switches.
Check all signal isolators.
10.1 Effluent Treatment Plant:
The effluent which is treated by a plant that is called effluent treatment plant. In fact water is the heart for dyeing industry & chemical also an important for different stage of dyeing. Now it is quite impossible without chemical continue dyeing. So which chemical we use in dyeing that mixed with water and finally drains. If the chemical mixed water goes outside through river it is very harmful for not only our environment but also all alive animals.
10.2 Types of ETP:
There are different types of ETP are available. That’s:
Biological ETP
Chemical ETP
Biological & chemical ETP
Physical ETP
Table-18: The raw character of this plant:
No
Chemical characteristics
Parameters
Unit
Amount
1.
Ph
11.8
2.
Suspended solids
Mg/L
378.8
3.
Biological oxygen demand (BOD)
Mg/L
416
4.
Chemical oxygen demand (COD)
Mg/L
850
Physical characteristics
5.
Color
Brown to black
6.
Odor
No distinct
7.
Temperature
°C
40°C
10.3 Consumption of chemicals used:
Table-19: Consumption of chemical used:
Name
Lime
Ferrous sulphate
Poly Aluminium Chloride
De-coloring Agent
Polymer
Antifoaming Agent
Acid
10.4 Function of Different Ingredient Use in ETP:
Lime: Lime is used to change the color of effluent and also to increase the transparency of the colored water.
Ferrous sulphate (Feso4): Ferrous sulphate is basically used for the agglomeration of the colloidal matters present in the effluent.
Polymer (polyelectrolytes): Poly electrolytes help to flocculate precipitate for easy deposition at the bottom of the clarifier tanks.
H2SO4 or HCL: H2SO4 or HCL is used for controlling the pH of liquor
Alum: Alum is used to sediment residual matters from the effluent.
Antifoaming Agent: Used for reduction / controlling foam. It is used manually in the distribution tank.
Sodium Hypochlorite: It is used to kill the harmful bacteria. It is used in the biological oxidation tank.
Urea: To feed bacteria.
10.5 Standard Parameters to Be Maintained:
[According to Bangladesh Standards for Waste Water from industrial units, discharge to inland surface water as per ECR 1997]
Table-20: Standard parameter needs to be maintained:
Parameters
Standard Values
PH
6-9
DO
4.5-8
BOD
50
COD
200
TDS
2100
Table-21: Parameters in ETP:
Parameters
Before Treatment
After Treatment
PH
9-11
7.5
BOD
250
46
COD
400
142
TDS
3500
824
TSS
500
150
DO
1-2
4-6
Color
150
50
Cobalt (Co)
0.02
0.1
Copper (Cu)
0.25
0.01
Mercury (Hg)
N/L
0.01
Nickel (Ni)
0.2
0.05
Arsenic (As)
N/L
N/L
Cadmium (Cd)
0.5
0.05
Lead (Pb)
0.1
0.07
Sulphide (S2)
0.05
0.005
Chromium (Cr)
1
0.5
10.6 Working Sequence of ETP:
Screen chamber
Raw waste water in
Settling Tank
Multi garage & sand filter
Oxidizing Chamber
Secondary clarifier
Secondary Biological tank
Primary Biological tank
Disposal safely
Slag tank
Slag press filter
Chemical Reaction clarifier
Treated water drain
Activated carbon filter
10.7 Photo Gallery of ETP:
Fig-44: Equalization Tank Fig-45: pH Control Tank
Fig-46: Equalization Tank Fig-47: pH Control Tank
11.1 INTRODUCTION:
Quality control, or QC for short, is a process by which entities review the quality of all factors involved in production. This approach places an emphasis on three aspects.
Elements such as controls, job management, defined and well managed processes, performance and integrity criteria, and identification of records.
Competence, such as knowledge, skills, experience, and qualifications.
Soft elements, such as personnel integrity, confidence, organizational culture, motivation, team spirit, and quality relationships.
Controls include product inspection, where every product is examined visually, and often using a stereo microscope for fine detail before the product is sold into the external market. Inspectors will be provided with lists and descriptions of unacceptable product defects such as cracks or surface blemishes for example.
The quality of the outputs is at risk if any of these three aspects is deficient in any way. Quality control emphasizes testing of products to uncover defects and reporting to management who make the decision to allow or deny product release, whereas quality assurance attempts to improve and stabilize production (and associated processes) to avoid, or at least minimize, issues which led to the defect(s) in the first place.[citation needed] For contract work, particularly work awarded by government agencies, quality control issues are among the top reasons for not renewing a contract.
11.2 OBJECTIVES OF QUALITY CONTROL:
Seeking customer’s needs and expectations, and meeting their requirements to the fullest.
Knowing and achieving the applicable regulatory requirements.
Simultaneously improving market shares.
Improving productivity and reducing costs.
Providing necessary resources including knowledge and training to employees.
Involving people at all levels.
Maintaining high standard of safety, health, and environment.
11.3 QUALITY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM IN HCKL:
QA
QA
Off-line
On-line
On-line quality control:
There are two types of online quality control. These are as follows:-
1. Raw material control: Raw material control means control the quality of raw materials (e.g.- quality of grey fabric, dyes chemicals and auxiliary)
2. Process control: Process control means the selection of right process and controlling of some parameters. Such as pH, water hardness, water volume, temperature, reels speed. Pump pressure etc.
On-line Tests:
Dyed fabric
Shade check
Wash fastness
Water fastness
Off- line tests:
Off- line tests for finished fabrics are divided into two groups. These are as follows:
Physical tests
Chemical tests
Physical tests:
GSM of fabric
Abrasion resistance/pilling
Dimensional stability
Spirality test
Color fastness to rubbing test(dry/wet
11.4 LIST OF EQUIPMENT:
The list of equipments to assure quality:-
Inspection machine.
Electronic balance
GSM cutter.
Measuring tape.
Scissors.
Indication sticker.
11.5 QUALITY STANDARD:
birds group the ISO: 9001:2000 standards in case of quality. Therefore, the four point system is followed to inspect the body & rib fabric. The defects found and points given against are recorded in the inspection sheet. Following table shows the four point grading system followed by inns.
Quality Management System
The quality assurance department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality of the material in process & various stages of its manufacturing.
Objectives of quality control
Research
Selection of raw materials
Process control
Process development
Product testing
Specification test
13.1 Compliance:
Compliance means conformity of certain standard. PPC maintain a moderate working condition for their employees. Though it is well established project, there is some lacking of proper compliance issues. Here is list of compliance in which some points are maintained fully and some are partially.
Compensation for holiday
Sexual harassment policy
Child labor abolition policy
Anti-discrimination policy
Zero abusement policy
Working hour policy
Hiring /recruitment policy
Environment policy
Security policy
Buyers code of conduct
Health care and safety committee
Canteen
Equal remuneration
National festival holiday
Overtime register
Labor welfare
Weekly holiday fund
Time care
Accident register
Workman register
Health register
Leave with wag
Children Day Care
13.2 Health:
Drinking water at least 4.5 L/day/employee.
Cup availability.
Drinking water supply.
Water cooler ,heater available in canteen.
Drinking water signs in Bangla and English locate min. 20 feet away from work place.
Drinking water vassal clean at once in a week.
Water reserve at least once a week.
Water center in charge person with cleanliness.
Suggestion box register.
13.3 Toilet:
Separate toilet for women and men.
A seat with proper privacy and lock facility.
Effective water sewage system.
Soap toilet.
Water tap.
Dust bins.
Toilet white washed one in every four month.
Daily cleaning log sheet.
No-smoking signs.
Ladies /gents toilet signs both in bangle and English.
Deposal of wastes and effluent.
13.4 Fire:
Sufficient fire extinguisher and active
Access area without hindrance
Fire signs in both languages
Fire certified personal photo
Emergency exit
13.5 Safety Guard:
Metal glows on good conditions
Rubber mats & ironers
First aid box one
Ironers wearing sleepers
First trained employees
Motor/needle guard
Eye guard
Doctor
Medicine
Welfare officer
13.6 Others:
Room temperature
Lighting facilities
Pic-3: Doctor
Pic-4: First Aid Box Pic-5: Fire Training
There is large difference between the theoretical knowledge and practical experiences. This is truer in case of the study of Textile Technology. Industrial attachment or Industrial training is an essential part for textile education because it minimizes the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge. This industrial training increases our thought a lot about textile technology. It also helps us to know a lot about industrial production process, machineries, and industrial management and made us suitable for industrial life. Besides it gives us the first opportunity to work in industry. So we can say industrial attachment prepare us for the expected destiny of practical life.
We have completed our industrial attachment from Birds Group of Inderstiy.
During our eight weeks long industrial training, we got the impression that this factory is one of the modern export oriented composite knit garments industry of our country. This factory does not compromise in case of quality. So, they have established on-line and off-line quality control of each product. Besides, they also use the good quality yarn, dyes and chemicals in their production process. Due to this, it has earned a “very good reputation” in foreign market for its quality product over many other export oriented textile mills. It has very well educated and technically experienced manpower to get rid of any defect in production process. It has also a good organizational hierarchy.
Limitations of the report
Because of secrecy act, the data on costing and marketing activities have not been supplied.
We had a very limited time. In spite of our willing to study more it was not possible to do so
Some points in different chapters are not included as these were not available.
It is not possible to hold the whole thing of a textile industry in such a small frame as this report. So, try our hard to summarize all the information that we are provided.
Two month industrial attachment at Hypoid Composite Knit Ltd. was a part of the B.Sc. in textile Engineering course. During the training period the whole 40 days were segmented and scheduled to a systematic routine. There were different sides of operation in textile process.
They are-
1. Knitting
2. Dyeing
3. Dyeing Lab
4. Finishing
5. Printing
6. Garments
7. WTP
8. ETP
9. Others
All the section, we have visited properly. We visit the factory as a given schedule which is given by the HR Department of the factory.
1st Week Visit All Section
Day
Working Description
Achievement
1st
Visit Overall Factory Layout Plan
There are more different unites, located in different places such as dyeing, finishing, Garment, ETP, fabric store, Chemical Store etc.
2nd
Knitting Section
Way of knitting process, knitting floor arrangement, knitting machines, duties of knitting workers.
3rd &4th
Dyeing Section
Way of dying process, dyeing floor arrangement, different dyeing machines, duties of dyeing workers
5th& 6th
Finishing
Way of finishing process, knitting floor arrangement , machines (duties of knitting workers
2nd Week in Knitting Section
Day
Working Description
Achievement
1st
We saw different types Knitting m/c
Now we know about Knitting m/c
2nd
Identification of different types of fabrics faults. These sections we are use inspection table & light.
We know about different types of fabric faults such as Roun star, Yarn patta, Slub hole, Black spot, Pin hole etc.
3rd
Identification of different types of fabrics by helps of Asst.P.O, Worker, Production manager.
How GSM come out learn by Production manager. Fabric cut by GSM cuter m/c & weighted digital m/c & multiplying by 100. Than come out GSM
We know different types of fabrics suck as Single jersey, Double jersey, Rib Interlock, Terry, lacost, Picky ,Phellip&Waffel.
We learn how GSM come out of fabric.
3rd Week in Dyeing Lab & Yarn Dyeing Section
Day
Working Description
Achievement
1st
We saw different types of testing machine in the dyeing lab and know the specification of the testing machine.
We learn how to test a dyed fabric and shade checking. Also learn how to control uneven shade
2nd
We saw different types of testing machine in the dyeing lab and know the specification of the testing machine
We learn how to test a dyed fabric and shade checking. Also learn how to control uneven shade.
3rd & 4th
Testing Equipment
Testing on recipe matching
5th
Testing Equipment
Testing on recipe matching
6th
Testing Equipment
Fabric testing
4th Week in Dyeing Section
Day
Working Description
Achievement
1st
On the dyeing floor we saw different types of dyeing machine including sample dyeing machine and dyeing machine for bulk production.
We Learn the specification of the machine.
2nd
On the dyeing floor we saw different types of dyeing machine including sample dyeing machine and dyeing machine for bulk production
Different machine structural view.
3rd
Walking
Discussing with many worker.
4th to 6th
Identification of different types of dyeing faults. These sections we are use inspection table & light.
We learn how to test a dyed fabric and shade checking. Also learn how to control uneven shade.
5th Week in Sample section
Day
Working Description
Achievement
1st
Machine observation.
Understanding machine activity.
2nd
Seam identification.
Good knowledge on seam.
3rd
Folder looking
Neckline matching on different fabric.
6 th Week in cutting section
Day
Working Description
Achievement
1st
Lay plan
We see how these are cutter
2nd
Fabric spreading
Good fabric spreading on fabric ratio
3rd
Market lay ratio on color basis
Ratio on color basis
4th
Machine observation
Straight bar cutting machine scissor
7th Week in sewing, finishing
Day
Working Description
Achievement
1st
Sewing
T-shirt layout
2nd
Sewing
Polo shirt layout on specific machine
3rd
Finishing
Folding, ironing quality on fabric
4th
Finishing
Folding, ironing quality on carton
8 th Week Revue All Section
Day
Working Description
Achievement
1st
Review Dyeing Lab, Review Yarn dyeing
We understood how to add recipe at required specific fabrics
2nd
Knitting, Dyeing, Finishing
We had close observed cam setting, cam box activities, dust suction process, recipe of dying process and Stenter machine process subsequently
3rd&4th
ETP
Waste water refining, sludge removing, how to remove water hardness
5th&6th
Review all section of the factory
Administration, HRD, worker’s punctuality and fair environment had gone to us.
Prime power Generator:
Brand name :GUASCOR
ORIGIN:Spain
Model: FGLD 480
Stand by voltage: 380 Kw,795kVA
Prime voltage: 636 Kw,1208kVA
Phase: 3
Weight:1845kg
Diesel Generator:
Brand name :KOMATSU
Origin: SINGAPORE
Model: EGS 630-3
Stand by voltage: 440Kw,550kVA
Prime voltage: 440Kw,550kVA
Phase: 3
Weight: 3800kg
Boiler:
Brand name :Cleaver Brooks
ORIGIN: U.S.A
Model: CB 700-650
Slno.:L 94002
Max. pressure:200psi
Industrial attachment on Impress- Birds Group of Inderstiy.
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