The loneliness of the borders:
the case of the village Tsamantas
Borders are the scars of history
-Robert Schuman
Borders? I have never seen one.
But I have heard they exist on the minds of some people
-Thor Heyerdahl
Abstract
Tsamantas is the name of a village in Thesprotia, a geographical department
at the northwest tip of Epirus. It is located right in the foothills of the
mountain Mourgana, just a few kilometers away from the Greek -Albanian
border. Its long-term history was shaped by an absurd human construction,
which created uncertainty, division, and changed the relations between the
two countries forever. The consequences of this dichotomy are more than
evident today, and reveal the catastrophic effects of nationalism.
A former resident of the village recalls oral disseminated stories from the
past, and draws us a picture of the local everyday life, before and after the
appearance of the border. Through his narration we conceptualize the direct
and dramatic influences of this separation, and we see how a friend or a
neighbor became the Other or the enemy. Just an imaginary line managed to
cause depopulation of the area and alienation between the people, leading to
nothing but decay.
(Balkan) Borders and nationalist utopias
Borders are the officially recognized geographic boundaries between two
states or, in other words, an imaginary line that separates two territorial areas.
As Nitsiakos described it, “borders are the ultimate symbols of the state’s
authority, a demonstration of the state’s sense of security against its
neighbors or a confirmation of its hostility towards them” (Nitsiakos 2011:
157). It’s a concept related to the idea of the “nation-state”, which spread
across Europe during the 19 th century, boosting the formation of national
identities. By successfully doing so, “boundaries were seen as vital elements
of the struggle among conflicting political ideologies” ( Hatzopoulos 2008:
185). People were fighting over territories in order to establish a stable
environment to live in and, in this context, borders were perceived as the
outcome, or even the reward for their efforts. This led to the development of
nationalist feelings and to the creation of a hostile image against the Other 1.
Despite the traumatic experiences of war and division, people in search of
identity continued to express their need for a nation and a flag, thus
establishing the term “nationalism”. As a result, a negative perception
occurred on how they viewed their neighboring states, which got worse due to
the mobility of the populations and the financial transitions. The economic
difficulties created an unstable environment that could easily trigger tension
among bordering states. Especially after the consolidation of the capitalistic
model, the hostility became even more evident. Capitalism, among other
things, also created the “bourgeois”, a social class that “cannot imagine the
Other” (Barthes 1979: 255). So, ironically, the financial borders were
successfully opened, but they became hermetically closed for human beings.
Naturally, those who were challenged directly were the rural and the
borderland populations who could no longer cover their basic needs, and were
forced to gradually abandon their residencies. It is generally observed that
with the “national integration and the economic development of the nation state”, begun the “decline and the ultimate demise” of any traditional
formations left (Nitsiakos 1993: 155-6). A corresponding example will be
analyzed later on, in order to showcase the results of such a transition.
According to Anderson’s description, the nation is a “community that
imagines itself as a political society, inherently bordered and simultaneously
sovereign. It constitutes a community at an imaginary level because no
member, even of the smallest nation, will never meet most of the other
members, will never come across or even hear of them, but each of them has a
sense of belonging” (Anderson 1997: 26). Although there are Others from
everyone’s point of view in each nation, they are not considered as such
The big “Other” has a symbolic sense and it is preferred here because it can better outline
the perception of the “neighbor” on either side of the border. It is a conce pt related with
Hegel’s and later Lacan’s theories.
1
because there’s something that officially unites them, a common ground. So,
the Other, is usually related with the “tribe” (Konstantopoulou 1999: 17),
which is seen as a type of identity and has inherent features and values that
automatically characterize its people. For instance, someone is considered
inferior or superior, even civilized or not, depending on his/her origins and
history. What is usually not mentioned, is that these stories and qualities are
mainly constructed by a local perspective, which is basically supporting the
national narrative and promoting the values of the “nation-state”. Their
effectiveness to this day has to do with the constant spread of these
stereotypes and, as Barthes explains, “the supreme power of a myth is its
repetition” (Barthes 1979: 235). In other words, by repeating a story someone
can establish it as a fact, but that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s true.
Even though an identity is often considered to be natural or irreversible, it is
truly “a mental construction, which is shaped through long term and complex
historical, social, political and cultural procedures” (Konstantopoulou 1999:
110). Specifically, in the Balkans, the identity shaping is an ever-changing
and ever-evolving notion. The map of the peninsula has been reshaped so
many times and in numerous different ways, while the final formation of the
states came through only recently. Moreover, the populations were never
clearly distinct, despite the diverse ethnological composition and the multifaceted ideological fields of the area. In many cases the similarities are more
and more obvious than the differences. As a result, achieving national
uniformity was rather challenging because it is usually “shaped depending on
long term historical circumstances, but in the Balkan area it has a completely
different sense because of the multinational model” (Vakalopoulos 1994: 43).
However, the majority of approaches and studies, concerning this territory,
take for granted that nationalism is its quintessential feature and the
“principal explanatory framework through which the past and the present of
the Balkans is to be narrated” (Hatzopoulos 2008: 1).
Nationalism has indeed played (and is even still playing) a significant role in
the special case of the Balkans, where interrelated populations were forcefully
divided in order to form separate nations, a fact that explains the constant
national imbalance and reification of the borders. What is still problematic is
that “the meaning of the Balkans always emanates fro m the ways in which
they are perceived in connection with other concepts, and depends on the
meanings that these other concepts are attributed” ( Hatzopoulos 200: 186).
Hence, each person (or nation) approaches the same concept from various
viewpoints, resulting in even acknowledging different countries as “Balkans”.
We are dealing with a particularly vague concept, which is susceptible to
numerous discussions, and it is because of this vagueness that it is often
easily interpreted with nationalistic criteria. Neither trying to separate
ourselves from the Other, nor making his/her picture look normal and familiar
(as if it wasn’t), makes sense, but unfortunately that’s how the Balkan subject
is usually being approached.
From the so-called “European point of view”, the Balkans are constructed and
perceived as non-European territories (Nitsiakos 2011), which just happened
to be in the same continent. Greece, being simultaneously a Balkan and a
European state, renders its cohabitation with the other Balkan countries a
highly complex issue. However, there is a tendency to forget this twofold
identity, despite sharing common grounds and heritage. On the contrary,
Greece is obsessed with its association with the West, and puts constant
efforts to highlight that and remind to everyone its European side. Greece, as
a Balkan and non-Balkan country, has established rather poor relationships
with its direct neighbors, an attitude that shows even “pettiness and intense
psychological complexes” (Vakalopoulos 1994: 20). The most characteristic
example is probably the ambiguous relationship with Albania.
There’s a really long, complicated and painful history behind the GreekAlbanian borders, for which neither side should be particularly proud. Until
the end of the 19 th century there was great vagueness in the area, which was
later interpreted as it pleased each side. On the one hand there was the
“emerging Albanian nationalism”, and on the other hand “the unrestrained
tendency, by the romantic or elite Athenian circles, to greekify even Albanian
territories” (Vakalopoulos 1994: 246). Afterwards, there is a certain series of
events that follow: the creation of the Albanian state in 1914, the sealing of
the Greek-Albanian borders in 1945, the collapse of the Hoxha regime in
1989 and the re-opening of the borders in 1990. Apart from these dates, there
is always also the issue of the so-called north Epirus, which was repeatedly
attempted to be incorporated in the Greek state. The existence of a Greek
minority that lives in the south of Albania, or in the north of Epirus, is a good
example to showcase the arbitrary and unnecessary use of the borders.
Especially in this case, we have the division of a rather coherent population,
just to adopt a half-hearted solution. People on both sides of the border have
much more in common than we are left to believe.
Except for shaping identities and establishing national boundaries, a border is
directly affecting the everyday life of the people who live near it. The
predominantly rural populations that were working and residing on either
side, long before the consolidation of the Greek-Albanian border, suddenly
felt isolated and trapped in a region with no prospect. It’s no coincidence that
there are numerous immigrants from these areas, who were forced to go
abroad due to financial difficulties, and afterwards they became the
benefactors of their own hometowns (if possible). It’s significant that most of
the villages that are still standing today, it’s because of them. So, in
combination with a general urbanization of the society, the borde rline villages
were gradually abandoned, raising questions regarding the direct effects of
the imposition of an imaginary line.
The village Tsamantas
Tsamantas is a small village in Thesprotia, a geographical department at the
northwest tip of Epirus. It is located right in the foothills of the mountain
Mourgana, just a few kilometers away from the Greek -Albanian border. Its
long-term history goes back to the byzantine era, when the border sit uation
was totally different. The village had always had close relationships with its
neighbors, whether these were called Albanians or not. I happened to be in
this area with a small group of people in order to reorganize and curate the
local folklore museum, only to find out that the place is almost completely
abandoned today. Out of pure luck, we came across Nick 2, a former resident
of the village who lives and works abroad, but comes back to his home for a
few days during summer vacation. Having the chance to do an intervi ew with
him proved to be an enlightening experience that led to a better understanding
the local region and its historical evolution.
At the last census held in 2011, Tsamantas counted 71 residents, but
according to Nick the current permanent population isn’t more than 20 to 30
people. Years ago, the place was “full of life”, but the “biggest disaster of the
village were the wars” (Nick, interview 11/7/2013) 3. We know that till 1895
Tsamantas was a large and active village, which was later irreversibly
affected by the Balkan wars that caused the first massive wave of migration.
In 1913 the population was about 1200-1300 people, but in 1924 a second
wave fled to Melbourne (Australia) in search for work opportunities. As the
immigrants sent money back home during the interwar years, there were still
1400 people residing in the village in 1928. However, after the 2 nd World
War, the village was fully exhausted, and in the 1950s the count dropped to
about 500 people. As a result of this decay, during the 1960s there was
another large migration wave, which was meant to be the final blow for the
area. With so few permanent residents left today, “it’s hard for the village to
survive” anymore (Nick, interview 11/7/2013).
The economy of Tsamantas had always been based mostly on agriculture and
farming, while also raising many talented tinkers (ganomatis or kalaitzis),
who were employed all around the country. Until the 2 nd World War, the
population managed to survive decently, but then “there were the
borders…the uncertainty” (Nick, interview 11/7/2013). Previously , the village
2
For reasons of proper research behavior, the interlocutor is not mentioned by his real
name, but with a nickname.
3
All extracts in quotes are from the oral interview with Nick, held at the village Tsam antas,
in 11/7/2013.
had relationships with other nearby regions, which were not considered
hostile or opposite at the time, in any way. “Here, the villagers of Tsamantas
had pieces of land and farms in Albania, and till the 1940s they were allowed
to go there during the morning and come back at night, with a special
permission. However, after the war and the civil war the borders were
hermetically sealed” (Nick, interview 11/7/2013). Especially later, with the
communist regime, Albania was considered “the great enemy, the
communism” (Nick, interview 11/7/2013), and the shepherds were no longer
allowed to go too high in the mountain s. It was at that time that several
provocations took place as well. For instance, a Greek would shoot a goat in
order to create an incident with the Albanians. “It was something obscene, an
Orwellian situation…in order to come here from Kalamas (a nearby location)
you had to have a special permission, and that lasted till the 1970s” (Nick,
interview 11/7/2013).
Where there is a border there are also local myths and tales around it, and
naturally there is a particular story that concerns Tsamantas and a few
neighboring villages as well, on how they ended up at the Greek side of the
border. During the German occupation there was a German commissioner
called Von Thierry, who really appreciated archaeology and Greek history.
So, one day he went to visit the monastery of the area and there he saw a big
lantern, which was a gift from the patriarch. He real ly fancied that item, and
being a collector himself, he asked the priest (his name was Dimitris Pesxos)
to give it to him. According to the local legend the priest replied: “I can’t
give this to you because it belongs to St. George, but I’m going to pray, and if
you put us in the Greek side of the border you can have it” (Nick, interview
11/7/2013). After the promise, the German commissioner took out his map,
drew another line and incorporated five more villages (Povla, Vavouri, Lias,
Lista and Tsamantas) in the Greek territory. “The paradox”, adds Nick, “is
that the commission wouldn’t normally incorporate a region whose river goes
to the other side of the border”, but in this case they made an exception (Nick,
interview 11/7/2013). This story is supposed to be 9 9% true, and it has been
told for many years now, gaining more and more credibility. Even Nick
insisted: “you may not believe it but this is what happened” (Nick, interview
11/7/2013). Truth or not, this area was subjected to many changes over the
years concerning its bordering situation, and it was not unusual for a piece of
land to belong to the Greek side for a while and the next moment to the
Albanian one, or the other way round.
Despite the constant changes, there are some special events that took place in
the summer of 1944 that can only prove the superficiality of the borders. That
year the Germans had demolished many villages close to Tsamantas, and had
burned to the ground one of them (Lintista). The poverty of the area was
terrible and what’s worst was the level of starvation. “That summer was the
point zero for Tsamantas” (Nick, interview 11/7/2013). The remaining
population was so poor that they just grabbed anything valuable from their
homes (from jewelry to carpets) and went to sell it in Albania for “a handful
of corn” (Nick, interview 11/7/2013). Moreover, in order to survive, women
had to walk all the way to Sagiada (a little port at the west of Tsamantas), to
pick up salt from the salt lakes. Finally they managed to endure the
difficulties, but many people still say that “if it hadn’t been for Albania, we
would have died here…there was nothing left for us”, and Nick confirms that
“Albania saved them back then” (Nick, interview 11/7/2013).
In spite of this incident, the circumstances at the village got even worse, when
the civil war began in 1946, and Tsamantas, being too close to the borders
was politically divided. The neighboring villages (Lias and Lintista) were
strongly supporting the leftists, while the “whole mountain up here was
shelter for the communists [… as] of course the ammunition came through
Albania too” (Nick, interview 11/7/2013). During that time people started
leaving once more, especially those with relatives in America, who decided to
migrate for a better future. “People begun not to trust their own neighbors,
they became very suspicious, and given the poverty [of the area] they started
stealing from each other” (Nick, interview 11/7/2013). It was at that point that
they stopped having faith in their community and to the person next door, so
they decided to leave. Most of them said that they would come back
eventually, and even left their homes exactly as they were, as if they were to
be gone for just a little while. However, “the village gradually weakened” and
after a while, neither the first generation of immigrants, nor neither their
children visited the place (Nick, interview 11/7/2013).
After all these years of struggle, a formerly flourishing village is now facing
complete extinction, due to its position in the map. Being located so close to
the Greek-Albanian border, it was exhausted by the wars, the long periods of
starvation and the years of isolation. For the villagers, their relationship with
Albania was direct, and not that of the touristic type. Their everyday life was
interrelated: they would exchange products or farm their animals at the same
place. The mountain of Mourgana was indeed standing in between them but
both populations were its residents, and it was not considered a form of
boundary, rather an area of cohabitation. Local populations had learned to
work together, cooperate and live in peace at the same region. They
considered themselves neighbors and not Others. Moreover, these ties were an
important part of their economy as well, so when they were forcefully cut, the
villagers experienced sudden impoverished, and in many cases, they were
obligated to abandon their homes in order to survive. Apart from the
abovementioned tragedies, the border also resulted in a tremendous reduction
of the local populations, causing the inevitable decay of the whole area.
The last effort for revival took place in 2005, when a conference was held in
the folklore museum of Tsamantas entitled: “Common European Cultural
Heritage - Museums, borders, cultural awareness and communication betwe en
border regions”. It was organized by the Center of European Studies
(University West of England), aiming to initiate transnational dialogue and
mutual understanding among people of different cultural backgrounds.
However, almost ten years later, the first step towards that direction is yet to
be made. What local populations are still looking for, is the establishment of a
cross-border cooperation, especially with south Albania, in order to achieve
financial and cultural development.
Conclusion
Following this short narration concerning the village of Tsamantas, we come
to realize a few things about the borders and the division of humanity in
general. This case is just one amongst many others, where a border managed
to cause more problems than it was supposed to solve, by instantly distorting
the image of the people living on the other side, to Others. Similar results
have probably occurred elsewhere, when imaginary lines called “borders”
were used to separate neighboring territories. Two people from two different
nations may have never met, but the feeling that there is suddenly something
in between them, something that separates them, is only enhancing their
distance and sharpening their differences. In this case, a wide-spread story
around the creation of this particular border and its alleged undisputed
originality, makes a good example that showcases both the importance and the
randomness of a decision, which ended up deeply dividing a previously
balanced region.
Thus, there is one more reason for oral stories to be recorded and be taken
into account when “official” history is written (Nitsiakos 2011), otherwise the
centrality of nationalism in the perception of cases like the Balkans will never
be rejected. Historical change is presented differently within a nation, in
order to convince people of its necessity, while it is a whole other experience
for local communities whose everyday lives are tremendously altered. The
official history creates a certain image regarding the past, presenting it as the
only possible scenario, while the truth is that most of the times that’s only
one piece of the whole puzzle. In this case, the narration of a local story
brought to light incidents of the past that cannot be found in any history book,
nor are in line with the largely accepted nationalist storyline. Local
knowledge seems to be our only weapon against the prejudices of the past and
the tool to help us build the future. In other words, the solution is “the
deliverance of mandatory orientations and complexing type priorities and
outdated schemes, and the formation of full front Balkan window, recovered
from any introversions” (Vakalopoulos 1994: 291). In a long-term
perspective, an overall change of perception against our “genetically utopian
thought”, according to Kristeva, would be to imagine “a world without
strangers” (Kristeva 1997: 65). When such notion would not be considered a
utopia, but a plausible idea, it would be clear that the world doesn’t belong to
a person or state. We are all Others to someone else’s eyes anyway, but this
doesn’t have to be considered an unfortunate fact. Being different from each
other, doesn’t mean that people cannot acknowledge and accept their
differences and cohabitate this planet harmoniously, without being separated
by borders. What’s irrational is a planet full of borders and imaginary
restrictions, not a borderless human society bound by mutual respect and
solidarity.
Bibliography
Anderson, B., 1997, Φαντασιακές Κοινότητες [Imagined Communities],
Athens: Nefeli.
Barthes, R., 1979, Μυθολογίες [Mythologies], Athens: Rappa Publishing.
Dermentzopoulos, Ch., Nitsiakos, V. (eds.), 2007, Όψεις του λαϊκού
πολιτισμού: Μνήμη Στάθη Δαμιανάκου [Views of popular culture: In Memory
of Stathis Damianakos], Athens: Plethron.
Hatzopoulos, P., 2008, The Balkans beyond Nationalism and Identity:
international relations and ideology, London and New York: I. B. Tauris.
Kristeva, J., 1997, Έθνη Χωρίς Εθνικισμό [Nations without nationalism],
Athens: Alternative Publications.
Konstantopoulou, Ch., Maratou-Alipranti, L., Germanos, D., Oikonomou, Th.,
1999, «εμείς» και οι «άλλοι»: αναφορά στις τάσεις και τα σύμβολα [“we” and
the “others”: reference in tendencies and symbols], Athens: National Center
for Social Research, tipothito, Giorgos Dardanos.
Nitsiakos, V., 1993, Παραδοσιακές Κοινωνικές Δομές (β’
[Traditional Social Structures (second edition)], Athens: Odisseas.
έκδοση)
Nitsiakos V., Manos I., Agelopoulos G., Angelidou A., Dalkavoukis V. (eds.),
2008, Balkan Border Crossings: First Annual of the Konitsa Summer School ,
Berlin: LIT.
Nitsiakos V., Manos I., Agelopoulos G., Angelidou A., Dalkavoukis V. (eds.),
2011, Balkan Border Crossings: Second Annual of the Konitsa Summer
School, Berlin: LIT.
Vakalopoulos, K., 1994, Θεωρητική Προσέγγιση και Ιστορική Ερμηνεία της
Βαλκανικής Συνύπαρξης [Theoretical Approach and Historical Interpretation
of the Balkan Coexistence], Thessaloniki: Publishing house of Kuriakidis
brothers.