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QUALTIY AND REPRODUCIBILITY Success of a process house depends on how much it can produce in minimum time maintaining the quality required in an economical manner RFT Lot Cycle Time Quality Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Price of non-conformity Relative cost 250 200 4 150 100 50 0 3 2 RIGHT FIRST 1 TIME tion in g i p d p d i r 1a , st g + n i ye ing ath) D e ING y E b D Y e ED m R a s ( Textile Effects pling sam + g n Dyei e is OK) d (sha Novacron FN Task Force Price of non-conformity 1 0.8 RIGHT 0.6 0.4 FIRST TIME 0.2 0 n in g p o i g p t i i n str dd , mpli a a g s n 1 + yei ng + K) g D i ING ) e n i y E h O t e D Y ba Dy ED e is d R e a h (s (sam Production tons / day Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Highest Level of Reproducibility Highest Level of Reproducibility Substrate Water and Machine Process Work Practice Work Practice Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Where to Focus Lab Infrastructure and Work Practice Bulk Infrastructure and Work Practice Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Lab Infrastructure and Work Practice Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects POINTS TO FOCUS Substrate Selection of dyestuff Dyeing procedure Check points during dyeing Shade confirmation against standard Storage of dyes and chemicals Calibration of equipments Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Slide 1 of 26 Substrate – Ready For Dyeing Absorbency pH (Surface & Core) CHECK POINTS Hardness Base whiteness Cotton Quality Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects ASSESSMENT OF READY FOR DYEING MATERIAL Absorbency of fabric Check on conditioned fabric ! Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Slide 4 of 26 ASSESSMENT OF READY FOR DYEING MATERIAL pH of fabric Surface pH Check for every lot Check with UNIVERSAL INDICATOR pH of Fabric core (Extraction Method) EXTRACTION METHOD Substrate: 10+0.1 g Cut sample into small pieces Boil 250 ml distilled water for 10’; Immerse specimen, cover the beaker and boil for additional 10’. Cool, remove the contents and determine pH of extract. Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Slide 5 of 26 ASSESSMENT OF READY FOR DYEING MATERIAL pH of fabric (Surface and core pH) Target pH 6.5 – 7.0 If fabric pH alkaline…. Acidifying at this stage results in salt formation on fabric ! Rinse the material before dyeing If pH of fabric acidic… Incomplete fixation of dyestuff ! Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Slide 6 of 26 ASSESSMENT OF READY FOR DYEING MATERIAL Whiteness Base whiteness should be same from Lab to bulk, and Bulk to bulk Check Point Measure Novacron FN Task Force Compare with Standard Frequent replacement of RFD Shade reconfirmation on change in base whiteness Textile Effects Slide 8 of 26 ASSESSMENT OF READY FOR DYEING MATERIAL Cotton Quality Consistent Cotton Quality or Information in advance regarding change Most important factor to ensure Right Every Time Measure Novacron FN Task Force Testing of Cotton Quality Shade re-confirmation on new substrate Textile Effects Slide 9 of 26 ASSESSMENT OF READY FOR DYEING MATERIAL Important to Focus Cotton Quality………should be same as in bulk Shade re-confirmation on change in cotton quality ! Shade development on RFD from bulk Shade re-confirmation on change in pretreatment process Periodic replacement of RFD is must ! Re-confirm the shade in case of repeat orders ! Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Slide 10 of 26 Dye Stuff Selection According to Fastness protocols of buyer Operational Performance Optimized Cost Product – EHS Requirements Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Slide 11 of 26 Dyeing Procedure POINTS TO FOCUS Preparation of stock solution Preparation of dye bath Dyeing process Wash-off Shade confirmation against standard Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Slide 12 of 26 Water parameters for Dye bath Color pH-value Solid residue from glowing Solid residue from evaporation Cu ++ Cu+++ Fe++/Fe+++ Mn++ Al+++ Cl− SO4−− NO2− Total hardness colorless 6.5-7.0 app.. 500 mg/l app.. 1000 mg/l 0.1 mg/l 0.2 mg/l 0.1 mg/l 0.05 mg/l 0.2 mg/l app.. 300 mg/l app.. 350 mg/l Nil up to 5ºdH Carbonate hardness Magnesium hardness up to 2ºdH up to 2ºdH Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Slide 13 of 26 PREPARATION OF STOCK SOLUTION DYE STOCK SOLUTION Important considerations Water - pH and hardness If parameters not ideal Dissolve dye in 0.5gpl Albatex® AD pH 6.5 –7 (with acetic acid) Add Albatex AB-55 in dye solution to avoid effect of bicarbonates Replacement of stock solution….after every 12 hrs Decide after testing the stability of stock solutions Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Slide 15 of 26 PREPARATION OF STOCK SOLUTION CHEMICALS / AUXILIARIES Quality same as used in bulk Replacement of stock solution Auxiliaries Every week exception Penetration Accelerant – should be prepared fresh each time Glauber’s salt Every day Caustic soda Every day Soda ash Fresh each time exposure to air results in bicarbonates formation Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Slide 16 of 26 SUBSTRATE Sample weight (Considering Scouring loss) If, recipe to be given for sample weight 5 gms Scouring loss determined in bulk = 10% Thus, weight loss due to scouring = 0.5 gms Weight of sample to be taken = (5 – 0.5) gms = 4.5 gms To develop a recipe for 5 gms material, sample weight actually taken 5- (weight loss due to scouring) i.e. 4.5 gms. Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Slide 17 of 26 PREPARATION OF DYE BATH POINTS TO FOCUS Liquor ratio - same as in bulk. Try to match the exhaustion liquor ratio also same as in bulk to get more better results Calculations Total Liquor = (Dye Stock Solution) + (Salt solution) + (Auxiliaries solution) +(Alkali) + Water retained in fabric Water - pH and hardness Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Slide 18 of 26 PREPARATION OF DYE BATH Important points during lab calculation The liquor ratio of both the phases .i.e. exhaustion and fixation should be same for lab and bulk Use constant amount of liquor for alkali dosing For Example Take a case when customer has prepared standard solution of 10% Soda Ash and 1% Caustic and is dyeing a light and a dark shade Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects PREPARATION OF DYE BATH There comes an error of 12% in liquor ratio ( Case 1 and Case 2 ) Where as in Bulk it is not the case so this working method in lab is wrong Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects PREPARATION OF DYE BATH The Right method is to make different concentration solution of alkali and add constant amount of liquor Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Auto Lab Dispenser They are boon only if used wisely Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Auto Lab Dispenser Dispenser has in built error of 0.02 ml Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Dyeing POINTS TO FOCUS Dyeing procedure - as recommended for lab Salt and alkali - as per recommendations Neutralization - core alkali removal Wash-off - same as in bulk and should be done in Lab machine After treatment Novacron FN Task Force - same as in bulk Textile Effects Slide 19 of 26 Check points during dyeing ° 100 C 90 80 70 45' 20' 45' HOLD HOLD HOLD 60 50 40 30 E D 20 Drain A,B,C 10 20 pH 10 6.5 – 7.0 0 A B C D E 30 40 50 Auxiliaries Glauber’s salt Novacron FN/S/W Dyes Soda Ash Caustic Soda Novacron FN Task Force 60 70 80 90 min As per standard As per shade % As per shade As per shade % As per shade % 100 pH 130 140 >10.8 for mixed alkali >10.6 for soda ash 110 120 pH should be same in lab and bulk ! Textile Effects Slide 20 of 26 Storage of Dyes Dye samples in lab Store in closed container Labeled Date & Lot no. Replace every week Dye Standards Replace every three months Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Slide 22 of 26 Routine for Calibration of equipments Weighing balance - Every day pH meter…….Every day Consider pH Range to be used Change buffer solutions regularly Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Shade confirmation against the standard CONCLUSION INFLUENCED BY CONDITIONING OF SAMPLE LIGHT SOURCE Shade checking under improper conditions may lead to false conclusions ! Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Slide 23 of 26 Shade confirmation against standard Same colours under Illumination 1 Different colours under Illumination 2 Check shade under recommended light source ! Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Slide 24 of 26 Machine parameters RPM of machine - according to standard recommendations Temperature - physical check with maxima thermometer check once a month Sensor pot should be dye pot Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Slide 25 of 26 Bulk Working Reproducibility ? WRONG WAY   RIGHT WAY Dyeing ? RIGHT THING High reproducibility Novacron FN Task Force Ⅹ WRONG THING Textile Effects Bulk Working High reproducibility Testing routine at various stages of processing Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Ready for Dyeing Substrate CHECK POINTS Absorbency pH Hardness Residual peroxide Base whiteness Cotton Quality Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects TEGEWA violet scale Target: Assessment of the degradation degree of starch size For dyeing in general note 7 according to TEGEWA is sufficient in regard of degree of desizing. Shade n° °7 : 8: 9: Novacron FN Task Force good very good complete removal of starch Textile Effects Assessment of Ready for Dyeing Material Hardness on fabric Desired during dyeing < 50 ppm Hold HARDNESS STRIP in contact with wet fabric for 1 sec Shake-off excess liquor Compare reaction zone with color scale after 1 min Check for every lot Measure If > 150 ppm, additional rinse must If < 150 ppm, use desired products Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Assessment of Ready for Dyeing Material Residual Peroxide on fabric Desired during dyeing: nil Hold PEROXIDE STRIP in contact with wet fabric for 1 sec Shake-off excess liquor Compare reaction zone with color scale after 15 sec Check for every lot Measure Novacron FN Task Force Use TINOZYM ® CAT (enzyme based peroxide killer) Textile Effects Chlorine content of water Chlorine in process water may lead to …. Poor reproducibility Un levelness Rinse the test vessel several times with bulk water. Fill up to 5 ml mark Add four drops of reagent and swirl Rate by comparison of color on color card Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects BI-CARBONATES IN WATER If water contains traces of soidum bicarbonate Boil water to 950c for 30 min, Check pH > 9 Favors the hydrolysis of reactive dye Strength loss Dissolved in acidic medium Use ALBATEX® AB 55 – depending of pH of water and amount of Bi-carbonates present Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects DYE DISSOLVING Dye dissolving -near to the boil ?????????? Disastrous consequences for some of our "warm dissolving" dyes, particularly if process water is slightly/strongly alkaline In pale shades for example: up to 50% of the dye can be hydrolysed Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects LIQUOR RATIO Knowledge of Final Liquor ratio in bulk is of utmost importance Machine make: Stafi Machine Type : HTHP Lot number : 6673 Department : Dyeing Machine Number :3 Shade : Sage Quality : Cotton Count : 1/10 s Weight : 500 Kg LR : 9:1 Dyes & Chemicals Novacron YELLOW FN 2R 0.27% Novacron RED FN R 0.07% Novacron BLUE FN R 0.17% Salt 25 g/l Soda Caustic Novacron FN Task Force 5 g/l 0.5 g/l Textile Effects LIQUOR RATIO GENERAL METHOD Water 4500 l Water retention 170% 850 l Dye Dosing 200 l Chemical Dosing 50 l Soda Dosing 100 l Caustic Dosing 100 l Total volume 5800 l LIQUOR RATIO- 11.6:1 Vs 9:1 (+28.8%) Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects LIQUOR RATIO So what we add by general method (5800 l) Salt 25g/l Vs 19.40 g/l (-22.4%) Less than required – resulting in lower exhaustion Soda 5g/l Vs 3.88 g/l (-22.4%) Caustic 0.5g/l Vs 0.388 g/l (-22.4%) Lower than required is lower fixation of a lower amount of dye Novacron FN Task Force exhausted Textile Effects LIQUOR RATIO So what ??????? More additions No Right First Time No Lab-Bulk, Bulk-Bulk Decrease in Production rate Increase in PROCESSS COST Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects LIQUOR RATIO RIGHT METHOD Water 3200 l Water retention 170% 850 l Dye Dosing 200 l Chemical Dosing 50 l Soda Dosing 100 l Caustic Dosing 100 l Total volume 4500 l LR- 9:1 Water retention to be calculated for particular substrate and machine Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Check points during dyeing DYEBATH PARAMETERS Parameter Check point Initial pH before dyeing After adding salt Checked by pH meter Desired 6.0-6.5 Measure LR Novacron FN Task Force Adjust pH with Albatex AB 55 10’ after (only) salt addition Hydrometer Textile Effects CHECK LIQUOR RATIO (LR) Liquor drawn from machine after 5’ of salt addition Fill in measuring cylinder upto brim; remove foam Cool to desired temperature Check the specific gravity Determine salt concentration (in g/l) from chart corresponding to that temperature Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects CHECK LIQUOR RATIO (LR) Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Check points during dyeing DYEBATH PARAMETERS Parameter Check point pH of dye bath 5’ after total alkali addition Desired >10.8 for soda ash Desired >11.2 for Caustic pH of dye bath At drain Desired >10.6 for soda ash Desired >10.8 for caustic pH…………. Measure During soaping Desired 8.0 - 8.5 Neutralize with acetic acid Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Shade confirmation against standard “A” Sample drawn for shade assessment Time …..20 min Shade darker than “A” Shade correction on false conclusions ! Solution Novacron FN Task Force BLIND DYEING Textile Effects Shade confirmation against standard In case of sampling before soaping CONCLUSION INFLUENCED BY SOAPING & AFTER TREATMENT DRYING CONDITIONS CONDITIONING ILLUMINANT LIGHT SOURCE Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Base whiteness Base whiteness should be same from Lab to bulk, and Bulk to bulk Base whiteness is particularly important for light shades Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Check Points in Machine/Process Check Points Optimum speed of machine Optimum Liquor ratio Rope length GSM of fabric Machine cleaning Even pressure of heads Even magnet sensor reading Check dosing system/Calibration of dosing system Calibration of tank/side tank Calibration of temperature sensor Check compressed air pressure fluctuation Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects IMPORTANT CONSIDERATIONS Opening of packs Use standard method Close the lid properly Proper stacking of packs (only 2 layers) Watch for broken boxes Storage Maintenance of Humidity & Temperature Exposure to light & atmosphere Weighing Separate spoons or mugs for separate dyes Use polythene or separate pots Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects Dyestuff profile for Exhaust dyeing Only the right dyestuff with right system ensures BLIND DYEING Novacron FN Task Force Textile Effects