Wandering through the past around Nunton

Wandering through the past around Nunton Abstract Nunton is the starting point for one of Benbecula’s few ‘official’ right of way footpaths which runs between Nunton House and the local road running through Griminish. In addition to this there are, of course, the main roads and tracks together with many more paths and trails leading to and through other local points of interest. Explore these responsibly, please. This article will explore the ‘official’ right of way, examine the ways the route has evolved over time and highlight some of the sites and sights which can be encountered. Simon Davies Take the weight off your feet on the Nunton-Griminish footpath Uist Community Archaeology Group & Association of Certificated Field Archaeologists Contact [email protected] Some of the features both on and off the beaten (and not so beaten) track Claodh Mhuire, Benbecula’s cemetery, is slowly subsuming Baile nan Cailleach’s earliest building, the ruins of Teampull Mhuire, viewed from the southeast O.S. Explorer map of the area (from Canmore Maps) with footpath indicated by the intermittent red line. Local Canmore sites mentioned in this report are shown with green outline, others have black outline Wandering through the past around Nunton Panorama view close to Loch na h-Airde Faide Introduction During the 13th Century, the Benedictine community on Iona took control over the Church’s affairs across the Hebrides. In the 15th Century, lands on Benbecula were gifted to the Iona community who set up two ecclesiastic communities of Baile a’ Mhanaich (the Township of the Monk[s]) and Baile nan Cailleach (the Township of the Nun[s], literally the old woman) which was first mentioned in sources in the late 16th Century. The early graveyard, Cladh Mhuire, is still in use and contains the ruins of a building, Teampull Mhuire (St. Mary's Chapel) which dates from this early period and probably predates the formation of Baile nan Cailleach township itself. In the 18th Century the focus of the Township evolved from the Ecclesiastic to the Secular. Following the destruction of Ormiclate Castle by fire and the death of Clanranald after the Battle of Sherrifmuir during the first Jacobite uprising of 1715, the MacDonalds of Clanranald re-located to Nunton House, which remained the headquarters of the South Uist estates until around 1870, covering parts of both the Clanranald and Cluny ownership. The presence of the Estate’s proprietors in the Township for over 150 years probably accounts for the many changes to the landscape over the following three Centuries, including the rapid expansion of the Nunton Home Farm, and the building of the imposing Nunton Steadings, now the headquarters of the North Uist Distillery. Even after the departure of the proprietor to Grogarry Lodge, the Estate would still have been a strong influence on the activities of the former home farm. Nunton House (centre) and former walled garden (right) with Nunton Steadings (left) from the South A landscape of change Section of William Bald's 'Plan of Benbecula, surveyed 1804. Note that the original track, to the north of the southern loch, already exists with the bridge point at the narrows between the lochs (digital copy from National Records of Scotland) The earliest large-scale map of Benbecula was created in 1804 by William Bald, a young 16-year-old apprentice surveyor from Burntisland in Fife. He achieved a map almost as accurate as the much later Ordnance Survey efforts, with their first survey in 1878. The most startling difference is the larger size of the lochs in their original state. Lochs would be the transport route of choice for many journeys, especially for movement of goods and bulk materials. The same area as depicted on the Ordnance Survey 6-inch 1st Edition map, surveyed 1878, (Reproduced with permission of National Library of Scotland.) The change in the topography is down to extensive land drainage measures and reclamation under John Gordon of Cluny, to further his obsession of converting the lands to sheep farming in an attempt to increase the returns the newly acquired estate might give him. Care was taken to provide canal transport options in spite of the lower water levels. To this end he embarked on a callous regime of Clearances of the indigenous population, mostly to Canada. The techniques he employed were direct and brutal in this ‘land grab’ and depopulation of Benbecula and South Uist – whole townships were emptied at gunpoint and the people forced onto ships for the New World with false promises of land and start-up assistance awaiting their arrival. There are many harrowing accounts in ‘Outer Isles’ of the people arriving in rags, or naked from selling their possessions and clothing to survive the voyage. These outrages caused uproar when they were exposed, resulting in the creation of the Napier Commission, which would expose the full extent of these activities and mark the beginnings of some restitution for the dispossessed, although this would take almost fifty years to properly happen, and then only after a concerted campaign of revolt and disobedience by the islanders. There is a blue plaque on the walls of Nunton Steadings which pays tribute to some of the local heroes of the fight for justice at that time. Preparations The Nunton Farm Land Raid, commemorated on the outer wall of Nunton Steadings If travelling into Nunton, be aware there is no parking available where the track branches off the main road, but there is parking available adjacent to Nunton Steadings and a few metres further on outside the graveyard. Please do not obstruct gate access to fields or private driveways and house parking areas. Please be aware that this path travels through actively farmed pasture and is not a manicured or paved surface. There is often a herd of mixed cattle roaming the area which are normally quite docile, if inquisitive, but dogs should be kept on a lead and best kept away from the route in spring and early summer when calves are with the herd, making the animals less predictable. The ground conditions can optimistically be described as ‘variable’ and can be very muddy in parts. If venturing off the track, the ground can be uneven and extremely soft in places with boggy areas capable of swallowing an unwisely placed wellie! Waterproof boots should be the minimum requirement for footwear, but wellies are preferable, particularly for wider exploration. A hiking pole is also strongly recommended for both stability and ground testing in uncertain areas. Choose other clothing sensibly to match expected weather conditions and check for any ticks after your walk. The start of the official right of way, immediately north of Nunton House Although the path is only a little over two kilometres (plus your chosen return route) it can take quite a time to travel, particularly if exploring the wider hinterland features. I seldom spend less than 34 hours on the route and can take all day if exploring the wider sights, so please take adequate amounts of fluids and sustenance for your needs, and don’t forget a camera! The main route Our route leaves the main road at NF 7647 5359 just to the north of Nunton House, alongside a small green featuring a stone homage to prehistoric monuments. The track passes between a standard stockfence and the crumbling walls of the former extensive walled garden of Nunton House before passing through the gate into the open pasture section of the trail at NF 7655 5366. The combined attentions of cattle and vehicles has caused some deterioration of the track, even at this early part of the trip, although the line of the track is quite easily seen, passing more or less parallel with the head of Loch na Liana Mòire – the first of the ‘new’ lochs we will encounter that was created from the original Loch Mòr shown on Bald’s Plan. At this first section of the journey, the rout follows the original track, as shown on Bald’s plan. The final feature from this early trail is the causeway at NF 7667 5323 where the route crosses the position of a former small bay of the loch. Soon after this feature, Bald’s original track veered to the north whereas the modern path carries on in a more direct line with fewer direction changes. After crossing the slight rise seen in the picture below, the Griminis church of St Mary can be seen on the horizon, giving a good approximation landmark for much of the remainder of the route. The raised causeway across a former bay of Loch na Liana Mòire, before loch drainage lowered their water surface level From this divergence from the earlier track, there are several places where the path itself becomes very muddy and wet. These places are where small streams and drains are crossed. Originally, it is likely that a foundation passage of large boulders would have been created, more as a soak-away than a bridge, but over the decades with no ongoing maintenance, these have blocked forcing the water to the surface, hence the mud. It is noticeable that the quality of the grazing land deteriorates as the journey progresses, resembling some of the upland heaths, with plentiful heather and the few flowers that are present are those associated with wet and acidic soils. In a few places there are still some remnants of the regular furrows – a reminder that prior to Cluny’s change of use, this whole area was cultivated, not pasture. The exclusive pasturing of sheep has been a major cause of the land’s deterioration by their selective grazing, allowing less palatable plants to take over, especially heathers, sedges and rushes. Beyond the short causeway, the track ascends a small ridge with a slow descending curve to the left beyond. This is the descent towards the second ‘created’ loch, Loch na h-Àirde Faide. Look out for the fine resting place on the south side of the track at NF 7678 5303, pictured on the cover sheet of this report. A local crofter informed me that his grandmother was in domestic service at Nunton House, and one of her daily tasks was to collect water, as required, from the ‘sweet well at Àirde Faide’ which was considered far better than the well and pump at the house. She would rest briefly at this ‘seat’ on her return journey The path runs alongside Loch na h-Àirde Faide just beyond the obvious ridge. with the filled pitchers. Beyond Loch na h-Àirde Faide the track becomes a little more ephemeral, often only identifiable by the changed vegetation with several muddy sections to negotiate. This section leads past a further two ‘new’ lochans, the larger first one is Loch Cuidh’ a’ Chlachain but the smaller one has no name. In the spring and early summer, a pair of swans usually nest (with variable success) on either of The track beyond Loch na h-Àirde Faide becomes a little more ephemeral the two larger lochs, sometimes even using the small platform peninsula adjacent to the track alongside Loch na h-Àirde Faide. Passing by is likely to have little effect on the birds, but it is advisable not to tarry and watch their activities if the female is sitting on her nest. Less than 200metres beyond the lochs the next main feature is reached. This is the substantial causeway and bridge, once crossing the narrow junction of the two lochs marked by Bald but now crossing the canal provided when the drainage of the lochs threatened the conventional water traffic on the waterways. Just north of the bridge, there is a widening of the canal to allow two boats to pass if required. The actual bridging element is now provided by a fixed wooden structure, but originally this would have been hinged to allow it to be raised when craft needed to pass through. This is a substantial stone-built structure, standing more than a metre high above the ground level with foundations at least another metre deep to allow for the waterway depth. It extends for more than 35metres with a base width of around 4m. making a total stone requirement of at least 150 cubic metres, all constructed at a time before modern machinery was available. It indicates the value given to this route in former times. Crossing the causeway-bridge on the Nunton-Griminis pathway, which can be clearly seen following the paler vegetation sweeping round to the right beyond the second hillock. Although the next section of the path is clearly visible on both map and satellite, and the start can be simply followed, once it rounds the small hill, it becomes very unclear across this next very marshy section. The best advice is to follow line of sight towards St Mary’s church, the large building now dominating Cnoc Fraochaig. This line is the one marked on the maps and passes just to the east of a ruined ‘standard’ croft house from the early 20th Century, meeting the fence-line at a wrought iron gate. There are a further collection of ruined buildings nearby this small farm, many of which are considerably older than the croft house. From this point, the path runs directly south to the ‘main’ Griminis road. The path initially descends the small rocky escarpment down to a stone bridge crossing the stream which drains Loch a’ Mhuilinn, although, due to the lack of maintenance, the stream crosses the bridge more than the bridge crosses the stream! About a hundred metres beyond the gate there is a branch to a short side path leading to a small group of stone ruins. The largest of these, with an imposing gable end, is the remains of the first Free Church on Benbecula. Although the path from this point is easily seen, it is less easy or comfortable to follow. It is unmaintained and badly drained, making it very muddy along most of the final three hundred metres to the ‘finish gate’ which is adjacent to yet another ruined croft house. The final thirty metres to the finish gate Turning for Home Congratulations, you have finally reached the end of the two and a half kilometres which make up the Nunton – Griminis right-of-way, assuming you just walked the direct route! If you have taken the opportunity to visit all the hinterland sites detailed below, your journey could easily be doubled. All that remains is to decide your return journey. The shortest route is to make a simple U-turn and follow the path again back to Nunton House. The ruins of the early farmstead on Nunton’s eastern ridge You may prefer to return by the more circuitous route, heading north along the ridge, via the farmstead shown on Bald’s plan before taking the northern causeway across Loch Bail’-fhionnlaidh, or perhaps a wandering route taking in some of the hinterland features you did not visit on the route so far. If taking the northern route, please exercise extreme caution as the bridging of the causeway is a wrought iron gate placed across the deep-water channel, which is frequently just sub-surface and can be slippery. Crossing the northern deep-water channel via the wrought iron gate– often partly submerged! Alternatively, you might prefer to return via the main road system – a longer route at three and a half kilometres, but likely to be faster and less arduous than retracing your steps. This return route gives good views of the complex field systems of the area, including the many stone walls, several of which were created from the demolition of the houses of the population after their clearances! As you approach the southern access track to Culla Bay, you will get a great view of the balanced stone said to mark the site of the grave of a mermaid, reportedly buried thereabouts c. 1830. Examination by specialist granite experts in 1994 found no evidence to support the assertion that it had been set up for that purpose, but the popular myth remains as a local tradition! The ‘Mermaid’s Grave’ – according to tradition – adjacent to the Culla Bay southern access Bald’s earlier route Part of Bald's Plan - original pathway in red, approximate new track in green. Individual hinterland farm details have been overdrawn in red for clarity For most of the route, the track shown by Bald is identical to that extant today. The main difference is where Bald’s path swings north of the lochs after the causeway across the bay of Loch na Liana Mòire to the causeway-bridge. The modern route is shown in its approximate position over Bald’s plan, and was of course, not possible before Cluny’s drainage and land reclamation activities. Bald’s plan also shows the position of some major boundary walls, including that one still extant just to the north of the old path. Also indicated by Bald are a group of five substantial farms on the ‘Long Aird’ peninsula, and a further one on the ridge to the East of the lochs (now the canal). Given that the Bald track has been unused for over 150years and the huge changes in drainage, land use and loch profiles, it is not surprising that little of the route remains. There are several sections of revetting associated with the path at different points but much of the original stonework has probably been re-used on other estate projects – as has most of the general masonry from the farmstead buildings shown along ‘Long Aird’. Having said that, the sites of all five of those farmsteads can be identified in the landscape, each on slightly higher ground with some residual foundation stones visible across the sites. Perhaps the most obvious remains are the two building groups to the north of the current track – in particular the western wall of the long enclosure and the smaller eastern building foundations by the loch are still View along the stones of the west wall of the long enclosure, centred around NF 7692 5301 very obvious features. Bald's route follows the drystone wall which is still substantial and now denotes the boundary of the common grazing area As you continue along the Bald route, you will encounter one feature definitely not on his depiction – a small sheep fank, which is depicted on the OS 1st Edition maps as a roofless building, and a later 20th century sheep dip, now in ruins. The dip was a standard pattern used throughout Uist in the later part of the last century. The fank is likely the source of the adjacent loch’s name, Loch Cuidh’ a’ Chlachain – the ‘Loch of the Stone Enclosure’, which could only be named after the drainage of the area when the loch was brought into existence The ruined sheep fank and later sheep dip at the head of Loch Cuidh’ a’ Chlachain, NF 7722 5312 Still following the line of Bald’s route, there is one well preserved section as the track runs south towards the causeway bridge. At NF 775 5285 there is a small low causeway through a boggy area, still with intact kerb stones, mostly now covered by vegetation, and with good footing. The path then climbs a small ridge and cuts through a gate-space in a former boulder and turf boundary wall. The low causeway across the boggy lowland to the ridge ahead, exactly as depicted on Bald's route over 200 years ago. A wider view of the causeway bridge on the route, viewed from the eastern ridge Features in the wider hinterland A collection of rudimentary curling stones waiting for the next winter freeze. On my first excursion off the main path, to shores of a small rocky bay on Loch na Liana Mòire, I was both surprised and delighted to find a small collection of rudimentary curling stones made locally for seasonal use on the loch during the (rare) cold winters when the loch might freeze over. Such winter weather conditions are increasingly rare with climate change and the influence of the gulf stream. Progressing further along the eastern shoreline of Loch na Liana Mòire, there is a large promontory at about the mid-point. This is attributed with a Promontory Fort by Canmore (site ref. # 335584). There is a robust boundary ridge made from large boulders, smaller roughly dressed boulders and turf, separating the end of the promontory from the main pasture area, formerly cultivated ground. The enclosed area shows pronounced settlement enrichment and there are many bumps and ridges visible on its low mound surface in addition to considerably amounts of roughly dressed stone. It is not possible to determine exactly what form the structure took originally, nor to make assumptions as to its provenance, but the relatively rich grassland is certainly appreciated by the local cattle! The enriched vegetation of the 'promontory fort' at NF 7663 5301 is appreciated by the local cattle! A little further inland from the promontory fort, at NF 7670 5302, there is a further enriched ‘mound’ with what appears to be the foundation remains of a farmstead building and two smaller outbuildings. These are not currently listed on Canmore or other sites & monuments records, nor do they appear on any current or historic mapping. Without further investigation this site remains an enigma. The enriched farmstead mound at Loch na Liana Mòire, NF 7670 5302. Mention has already been made of the farmsteads shown on Bald’s ‘Plan’ (see p. 12), running along the eastern edge of the promontory named by Bald as ‘Long Aird’ These have been almost completely removed following their evacuation and demolition but the presence of a ‘new’ wall along the northern margin of the revised Loch Mòr probably took care of most of the demolition masonry. The wall runs from NF 7750 5238, where there is a large ‘pile’ of unused Site of one of Bald’s farmsteads at NF 7684 5279 The eastern shooting butt at NF 7698 5262 masonry stone, to NF7672 5271before turning SW running almost to the coast at NF7614 5251, a total distance of about 1.3 kilometres. This wall itself has been cannibalised to create a line of three shooting butts overlooking Loch Mòr. These are at NF 7679 5269, NF 7687 5268 and NF 7698 5262 and the presence of used cartridges in two of these suggest they are still in occasional use. Despite it being almost 200 years since the area was last cultivated there are still parts of the hinterland where the familiar corduroy signs of rig and furrow can still be identified, although so much of the land has lost its former character due to the extensive (over)grazing of sheep. Canmore lists a further site on the western side of the canal – just to the south of the track close to the causeway-bridge, Canmore site #83955 “Benbecula, 'ard Fhada'” located at NF 773 527. It would appear that this is an error of position and actually refers to the small township of farmsteads recorded by Bald and previously discussed, and some discussion regarding the name might also be considered (? Aird Faide?) It would almost certainly ‘absorb’ the Canmore ‘Farmstead’ site #123352 as this also refers to one of the Bald farmsteads. The true position of the site is centred around NF 7685 5293 – extensive searching in the more easterly position of the current listing revealed no evidence of any other building remnants whatsoever, only a few areas of previous rig and furrow cultivation and a few Even nearly 200 years later residual signs of rig-and-furrow boulder-and-turf field boundary ridges. cultivation remain – all done with a Cas-chrom (foot-plough). After crossing the causeway-bridge, there are no significant features, other than the occasional boulder and turf field boundary, for around 350 metres. It is here where a higher (and drier) area of land has allowed a farmstead to be located, just to the west of the track at NF 7561 5241. The main farmhouse is a typical late 19th or early 20th century stone farmhouse originally with two freestanding chimneys in the end walls. Typically, this would originally been a thatched roof cottage and there are three small outbuildings. At NF 7760 5240 there is a small subcircular foundation, built against a large boulder, apparently incorporating it into the structure. It is possible that this structure was used as a small woodstore or perhaps a dog kennel or henhouse and might have been turfwalled? There are two further small square stone structures, one at NF The farmhouse ruin at NF 7561 5241 with the boulder-based outbuilding visible top left 7769 5239, the other at NF 7764 5239, adjacent to the boundary fence of the farm. Both these are in ruinous state so original function can only be a matter of guesswork. It is perhaps worth noting that this southern farm boundary, which runs 700 metres straight all the way over to Loch a’ Mhuilinn and is a continuation of the long southern drystone wall which runs to the coast, suggesting that it is a part of an important boundary, possibly marking the original junction between Baile na Cailleach and Griminis townships. Just after passing through the boundary fence, via the wrought iron gate, the OS 1st Edition map marks the presence of a Well, although there is little sign of this today. There is, however, a stone marked enclosure of some 600 square metres, possible for grazing animals, to keep them away from any cultivation, which Bald records as prevailing in this area. The hilltop building at NF 7764 5229, now modified with shieling huts About 50 metres after crossing the bridge over the stream from Loch a’ Mhuilinn, there is a low hillock about 30 metres to the west side of the track. The summit of this hillock is noticeable greener than the local surrounding vegetation, and on investigation it was apparent this was settlement enrichment. Set into the summit of the hillock there is a subrectangular foundation with rounded corners, typical of an early drystone house. Even more interesting is that this house has subsequently been reused as a skeleton for three shieling huts, the foundation stones still in situ as common with Uist shieling huts. A further fifty metres or so along the track a branch to the west leads to the second significant group of buildings. The largest of these was originally a substantial gable ended structure, and from the demolition debris, it was furnished with a slate roof – an unusual finding on the Isles. This building, on the OS 1st Edition map is identified as the “Free Church” and was probably the first one on Benbecula. This high status would explain the slated roof. After amalgamation of churches locally, it was later (in 1886) replaced by the current Benbecula s first Free Church at NF 7761 5225 with an outbuilding beyond Church of Scotland church at the inland end of the Griminis road. Although the church is now only a substantial ruin, the remaining gable end is used frequently by a pair of buzzards for nesting – with variable success from their breeding attempts. This is still a young pair, prior to 2015 the same gable was used by starlings, which moved out when the buzzards moved in! There are a number of apparent outbuildings which, from their appearance are probably older than the church building. One of these in particular (at NF 7757 5223) appears to have been made from a truncated portion of a former longhouse, possibly an earlier farm on the site. The other buildings are at NF 7759 5225 and NF 7756 5225. There are also some unexplained possible foundations associated with the site of the church, possibly indicating that a former building was present before the construction of the church building. One of the outbuildings at NF 7757 5223, formerly part of a farmhouse The final building adjacent to the route is almost at the end where the track joins the main Griminis road. It is another typical turn of the century stone farmstead, sited on an almost circular raised area of land to the East of the track. This building is recorded on Canmore #268968 as a “Cottage”. There is evidence for an outbuilding also on the raised site, but this has been completely demolished and is now merely a small pile of stone masonry. The dry character of the raised building platform has made it useful as a feeding station for the local crofter’s cattle, as the surrounding land is very wet and boggy – even the former footpath, as mentioned earlier. The last house on the route, Canmore’s cottage site #268968 Virtual 3D models of many of the sites and features identified in this paper are in preparation and will be accessible at https://sketchfab.com/Smilemaker/collections/nunton-and-griminish Bibliography and Reference Sources Bald, William. (Surveyed 1804), Plan of the Island of Benbecula, the Property of Ranald George McDonald Esqr. of Clanranald. Digital copy from National Records of Scotland, RHP03028-00001-6 Canmore National Record of the Historic Environment available online at https://canmore.org.uk/ Goodrich-Freer, Ada. (1902) Outer Isles. London, Archibald Constable & Co Ltd Old Ordnance Survey maps Reproduced with permission of National Library of Scotland, available online at https://maps.nls.uk/geo/explore/ Visualising features of the path and the wider hinterland Virtual 3D models of many of the sites identified in this paper are accessible online at https://sketchfab.com/Smilemaker/collections/nunton-and-griminish or as PDF files from the Author on request [email protected]. All photographs copyright of the Author The foreman and members of the Nunton-Griminis Footpath Maintenance Team pose on the causeway-bridge