Thursday, November 13, 2008
Chicago Hot Dog
It's better in town, of course, but they still offer Vienna Beef dogs at O'Hare:
WIth all the fixin's:
The result - a hot dog so covered with goodies that you don't even see the frankfurter:
Tan Son Nhat Rose Lounge
Nothing really changed, including the food line layout
It was an early flight, so I grabbed this ham sandwich and some fruit for breakfast. Don't eat the sandwich!
The flight was delayed for about an hour - enough time to try, what else, the banh cuon
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
Business Pods on United Airlines
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
Airport Troubles
Ok, so it didn't literally burned down, but a fire ravaged thru the place enough to shut down the domestic terminal. Good thing they built that international terminal. 50% incapacitated is better than a 100% shutdown.
Thursday, October 16, 2008
9 Things to Do in Vietnam
1. Go get your hair washed
A lot of guidebooks that write about Vietnam gush about the affordability of it all. I would generally disagree with this - yes, it is easier and cheaper to live comfortably here, but this country is certainly not cheap, but maybe that is because I've been to China a few times and compare Vietnam's prices to there.
Most everything here is cheaper than the US, but also most everything here is more expensive than in China. But that makes sense, for they were all made in China! So you won't find much in the way of inexpensive goods, but you can find mind-blowing deals (if you're used to US prices) on services.
Housework, chauffeur and childcare services are insanely cheap in comparison, and about equal or less than China even. But the average tourist isn't gonna use such services.
Instead, take in the affordable and very Vietnamese luxury of getting your hair washed. The hair salons in Vietnam do more business providing hair washes than they do in actually cutting hair. They'll also provide other expected services, such as mani- and pedicures, Asian style services, such as earwax picking, face washes, and clothed massages. If you look real hard I'm sure you can find places that provide other services, but I'm pretty blind on that account.
A hair wash can be 50k or less. Just remember to tip. If you don't like to get your hair wet then go get a foot massage.
2. Enjoy the herb
I don't me the sticky sorta herb, but rather the panoply of SEAsian herbs that are virtually part of every local meal here. In the US, even at decent Vietnamese restaurants, you're limited to generic things like cilantro, mint and thai basil. Here, there is so much more, half of which I can only identify by smell and taste. Out of all the food products in Vietnam, I think I'll miss the basket of herbs the most. The main reason I like to eat seafood on the streets here is because of the herb mix that comes with it.
3. Go to the beach
I haven't really travelled around all that much in Vietnam, but I've been to some of the beaches here and they're definitely worthwhile. With its long coastline, Vietnam has a whole host of beaches to choose from - some are small and desolate (Sam Son), some are wide, crowded and dirty (Vung Tau), and some are pretty and peaceful (Cua Dai). Sure, it probably doesn't compare to Thailand, but life is pretty good whenever you have sand between your toes while swigging a beer, looking over the sound of crashing waves to the sun peeking over the horizon.
4. Get some clothes made
Before making this recommendation, a few caveats: custom tailored clothing is much cheaper in China (about 50% less), and labor costs here are cheap. Why is the latter a warning? Due to cheap labor, the concept of measure twice, cut once isn't employed here in Vietnam.
In all my dealings with the local labor pool, I find that folks are generally careless and error-prone. At first I attributed this to a lack of work ethic. But I've slowly come around to the thought that such errors are due to cheap labor. It costs so very little to rectify mistakes that it doesn't make sense within the local work culture to spend extra resources upfront to minimize mistakes.
It's sorta like the low-cost manufacturing facilities in China and elsewhere - it is cheaper to make 100 items with a 5% defect rate than 95 items with a 1% defect rate. If you engage in the former, you'll pay less and get more good product.
So, even though you should expect mistakes in your tailored clothing, and even though it isn't the cheapest in the world, why do I suggest getting clothes made here? Because you'll likely end up looking pretty good when all is said and done.
Most Americans, myself include, wear off the rack clothing that is just too big for us. The locals, men and women, almost regardless of age, wear clothes so tight fitting, it would make Fredrick's of Hollywood proud. So the tailors here are geared towards a more fitted, slimmer cut that ends up more flattering, no matter the customer. Just make sure to emphasize that you want a more comfortable fit, or else you'll end up with some nut-hugger pants.
A dress shirt made in D1, depending on the fabric choice, costs between a regular off-the-rack Brooks Brothers shirt and the same shirt on sale. But the fabric and the cut will be much better.
5. Go to the mountains
As a country geographically oriented like Chile, the beaches are on the forefront of a tourists' itinerary. But if you want something slightly different, head to the mountains. Places like Fan Si Pan (the highest point in Vietnam), or Dalat or Tam Dao. One of the best times we've had was when we visited Tam Dao.
Of course there is Sapa also. But be aware of the "Sapa Curse" - it's a relatively well known and well subscribed to phenomena amongst the locals. People say that if you go to Sapa, which is home to the ethnic minorities such as the Hmong and Yao, the women there will put a spell on you and you won't leave until you end up marrying a local ethnic minority and taking them back to the city with you.
It may be an old wives' tale, but I've heard of business colleagues who went to Sapa on vacation, disappeared for months, and returned with a Sapa wife. And I personally know of a long term Hanoi ex-pat who met and married his wife in Sapa.
6. Play some golf
If you're an American golfer, you have got to play some golf when you're in Vietnam. The courses here are generally in very good condition, but besides that, having a caddy is just something that needs to be experienced. Sure, most of the caddies are not the sort that you would rely on for tournament golf, simply because, unlike the States, the average caddy here does not play the game so their knowledge of it is limited. But if you've thanked the inventor of the Izzo dual-strap, then you'll appreciate someone else humping your bag around the course.
Again, remember to tip, because they get very little, if any, part of the "caddy fee" that is on your bill. Locals tip between 100-200k per 18 holes. I find that the local HCMC players tip more generously than their Hanoi brethren, so pay attention to where you're playing.
7. Go nhau
"Nhau" - it's a very Vietnamese word. Loosely translated, it means go out drinking, but it's not really that. "Go out drinking" sounds more like something you do on a Friday, Saturday, Sunday (and Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday) night while in college.
No matter the proper translation, you should go out and nhau, especially with some locals. It's practically a way of life here. It's fun to sit on some plastic stools, grab some peanuts and Vietnamese style bar food (i.e. stir fried stuff that you can share and/or eat with your hands) and drink the local beer. Don't worry about getting too drunk - for all the bravado of the locals, by and large they don't drink all that much. When locals drink, they end up drinking more ice water than actual beer.
8. Slow down and look around
Visitors pretty much hang in the cities of HCMC or Hanoi, and longer term ex-pats definitely count these cities as their main stomping grounds. The only comparison to these places are other Asian cities (well, perhaps S.America, Africa and the Middle East.. but I've never been). It's crowded, it's hectic, and there is so much going on.
But once in a while, just pump your brakes and slow down. Really look at your surroundings, and the people that inhabit it. Take it all in and connect with this time, this place.
I am not talking about observing folks and passing judgments, ascribing some sort of bs quiet nobility to the poor and the working poor.
Unlike most American cities, you can see all of Vietnam from virtually any street corner here. So slow down and breathe in the beauty, the warts, the frustrations, the wealth and poverty, the yearning, and the humanity of it all. This is current day Vietnam looking back at you, so take it all in before looking away.
9. Leave
At the end of it all you should leave. You weren't raised here, you don't have many ties here, you're not really from here. A life spent with an updated passport and a visa needing to be renewed yet again is a life in limbo.
Stay too long and you'll end up like the well-worn caricature - a bitter, whiny, complaining, ugly foreigner. Do yourself a favor and leave. Or marry someone local. I hear the weather is nice this time of year in Sapa.
Monday, October 06, 2008
Vacation Martini
Thursday, October 02, 2008
TIps for Vietnam Travel
Money/Exchange Rates:
One tip for establishments where they allow you to pay in VND or USD - ask what the exchange rate is. And then decide, 'ok, if I were to sell USD today, would I sell my dollars for that much in VND?' It makes the decision to pay in VND or USD much easier, as I'm generally confused if it is a good thing or a bad thing if the exchange rate is 15,900 versus 17,900 (answer: it depends on what currency you have in your pockets).
Weather:
I know some people say that it actually gets cold in Vietnam, but my experience has not borne it out. Lived in Hanoi for an entire year, and I'm coming up to an entire year in Saigon as well. It does get slightly chilly in the fall/winter in Hanoi, but one can venture about in shorts and tshirts still, even if one does not feature the obligatory Northern American layer of organic insulation.
When folks say that Saigon is rainy, well, that they are correct on. It rained like a mother late summer to early fall this year. I mean, crazy amounts that kept me cooped up inside.
Travel/Immigration/Customs;
The in-bound customs officers are really anal about you bringing in laptops. HCMC's customs folks seem to be more difficult than their Hanoi brethren.
Recently I travelled abroad with two laptops, and then returned with two laptops. And they wanted me to pay customs duties on the second laptop. This is after I had paid fees to bring in these laptops the first time, although those monies didn't end up in the government's coffers, as detailed here.
My obstinance prevailed, and I didn't pay anything; the customs folk made me write onto the customs declaration form that I brought in two computers, and warning me that I will have to take with me two computers when I next leave the country, or else I would have to pay duties then.
Let me back up and explain the customs process. Upon entering Vietnam, the flight attendants will give you a two part white customs form (for foreign passport holders). You declare items you are bringing in and the like, just like other countries. Upon landing, at passport control, they review your customs declaration, stamp one side of the form, keep the stamped part and then return to you the unstamped part. When you collect baggage and leave the airport, the x-ray your baggage, reconfirm the customs form, stamp it and return it to you. When you next leave the country, you are required to submit this customs form that you are required to keep all this time.
So instead of paying more duties, I wrote down that I have two computers on the customs document, and they allowed me to leave. I don't plan to leave with two computers and, because this is Vietnam, I don't plan to be required to pay any duties upon leaving.
First off, the customs guys were lazy and didn't stamp the part I kept. Second, Hanoi is much more lax with the customs procedures than HCMC. When I flew in and out of Hanoi, I never returned the second part of my form upon exit of the country, because I didn't know it was a requirement. They just give you a new form to fill out. These forms are lying around all over the place in Noi Bai airport.
Long story short, I got myself a blank form and will give the customs folks an unadulterated declaration statement upon leaving - if they complain about the lack of an official stamp, well, the explanation that it was never stamped by the lazy customs officers will be readily accepted, because they know that such lack of rigor is common.
The tip is, when you fly into the country, grab extra blank custom forms from the flight crew. Just tell them you made a typo on your form. Then keep it handy, just to have options. You know, just in case you need to forge shit.
If I really wanted to import shit, not get caught by customs and sell under the radar, I would bring in wristwatches. Vietnamese people are bling'n ballers yo, you can easily unload watches costing tens of thousands here. I cannot think of a more gauche manner to launder money in Vietnam.
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
O'Hare Flooding (Again) and United's Red Carpet Club
Saw on the news that evening that Terminal 2 of O'Hare got evacuated due to the rains. In the terminal I was in (1?), there were lots of water-catching pylons made up of those x-ray trays all over. Walking around the terminal to stave off boredom reminded me of those Hertz O.J. Simpson commercials, with the dodging and weaving. Hey, it's football season, and I don't mean EPL.
This was the scene about an hour before the scheduled departure. Relatively stress-free compared to the scene a few hours later when the flight got cancelled, due in part to the rain/flooding, in part to maintenance issues on the plane.
This is United's Red Carpet Club (or at least one of them) at O'Hare. It's mostly empty because I was practically the last person to get a hotel booking voucher from United. Just imagine a load of passengers on a 747 filling this space.
I think she *was* the last person to get a hotel. Eating granola bars and drinking tea gets real old, real fast if one is stuck around for 2 hours. Especially if there is no free wifi! (Boingo offers 1 free hour of wifi at ORD, but that runs out in a blink of the eye when your flight gets delayed)
This is the bar. Where you have to pay for a drink. Wha!?! What is the point of an airline membership lounge where one has to fork over money for drinks? And where the drinks cost the same as the bars out in the terminal. There's no point to this lounge business in the US airports with these dumb cutbacks. I think this woman got her hotel and flights rearranged already, but she's a college football fan.
The cancelled flight meant a hotel voucher, a taxi voucher (that only covered about 60% of the taxi ride to West Bumfuck), and a $15 food voucher for use in the airport, all courtesy of the airline. The final poke in the eye by United is that the food voucher cannot be credited towards drinks. In my estimation, a low-fat, carbonated drink filled with carbohydrates counts as food to me.
Saturday, September 13, 2008
O'Hare Flooding
the front edge of Hurricane Ike. Wonder how Houston held up.
Flooded gate means that they can't fuel up the plane - kinda important.
The traffic control tower also got flooded, according to the pilot of
my previous flight. And the entire airport is grounded to a halt
because a lot if runways are closed due to the flooding.
Time to hit up the airport's McDonalds.
Friday, September 05, 2008
Red Carpet Club in Hong Kong Airport
The number on the glass is the United Wifi network's security key. With a number like that, I don't think they change it often. A reference, just in case you can't access the free wifi service thru PCCW that is available.
Star Alliance at Tan Son Nhat, part 3
Looking around
There's my plane
And here's the national carrier on an early morning flight
My preflight meal.. I didn't know United stopped liquor service onboard, otherwise I would've found something to add to that Diet Coke (nee Coke Light)
As you can see, this facility is hardly utilized. I was the only one there for a 747 leaving the country. As I was about to leave, one dude entered the lounge. The Vietnam Airlines business class lounge, in particular the location at Hanoi's Noi Bai Airport, is better, mainly due to the better service. There was no service here, because there were no customers here. It felt really strange sitting there by myself.
Thursday, September 04, 2008
Star Alliance at Tan Son Nhat, part 2
Wednesday, September 03, 2008
'Peake Blue Crabs
Went home and had some blue crabs from the Chesapeake recently. They're orange when you cook them up obviously; the Old Bay seasoning hits the right spot.
As one can tell from the plate, this was off a buffet line, so it was good but not the best example of the species. If you're a foreigner (or a candidate for office) and want ro meet a cross section of America in whatever town or city you visit, head to the local Chinese buffet and talk to the customers.
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
No Free Liquor
serve complimentary alcohol on their flights, as of Aug 1st 2008. I
guess I have to start buying 100ml bottles to smuggle things on board.
From now on bring USD when flying, in increments of $6USD.
Star Alliance at Tan Son Nhat (HCMC), part 1
terminal (new as of the last six months) at Tan Son Nhat Airport in
Saigon, Vietnam.
I'll put up some more pictures of the comfortable but non-descript
lounge later as this iPhone only let's me mail one image at a time.
One feature of this lounge is a password free wifi hookup - so next
time when I don't have lounge access I will just sidle up to one of
its outside partitioning walls. If the signal can go through my
cranium, it should be able to go thru thin wallboard.
Monday, July 28, 2008
Golf in Danang
Sunrise over the bay in Danang.
Huda on the beach.
Playing the new Montgomerie Links.
It's a nice course in great condition (because it's new and all), but it's hardly a "links" course. A bit disappointing if you're pulled into going due to the way it's being advertised.
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
Flight Time
Recently stopped by Hong Kong's airport again. Those mountain views are still impressive. This being HK, even the sky is branded by a luxury retailer!
One thing about being on a frequent flyer card program is that on emptier flights, you get things like a whole row to yourself. It made up for the fact that about 30 members of an extended Vietnamese family was sitting in the rows around me. Yeah, it was kinda of a loud way to cap off a 24 hours of travel.Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Seat Guru
Thursday, June 19, 2008
Business on 747
on Asia-based airlines.
Recently, on my trans-continental trip from LAX to the East Coast, I
was offered the option of buying some crap food for $5. Good thing I
was more interested in satisfying my sleep deprivation than my hunger.
Look at how full your airline tray gets on a simple sub-2 hour flight
on Vietnam Airlines - mains, salad, dessert, roll, drink, coffee/tea,
wine, full compliment of utensils (fork, spoon, knife, chopsticks,
napkin, and of course a toothpick and the mandatory wet nap), full
compliment of condiments (salt, pepper, butter, cream, and of course
hot sauce) - by the time you're thru, the plane is on its descent.
Once you switch over to the international segment on the domestic airlines, it does get better. The service is still not up to the standards of Vietnam Airlines, but it's tolerable.
I was on a United flight and got bumped up to business class - the upper cabin of a Boeing 747, too! - on the international segment. It's pretty neat to sit up there, with the limited number of seats, it feels like you're traveling in real style. Service was decent, but the accommodations felt old and outdated. I had the hardest time with adjusting the seat until I figured out that, unlike the seats on Vietnam Airlines' biz class, these things were manually adjusted. Bummer.
Friday, May 30, 2008
Sing Food - Part Three
flavorful fishes I have eaten. It looks sorts like skate - wiki tells
me it is in the same family - but it is different and better.
Unfortunately I didn't eat very much because the tropical heat and
humidity really wilted my appetite. I ended up drinking a few beers in
this Muslim aisle of the hawker center - yes, that is probably frowned
upon... so lash me.