Handmade Fall Layers

I made some pants, and I really like them. I actually have a lot to say about these pants. They're self-drafted, but I think I'll leave all of that for a topic specific post. Today, I'm just going to go over the specifics of this outfit, and ease myself back into outfit posts. 

The pants are the newest garment I've sewn. I wanted some pull on tapered pants. I had two different strategies for creating them. The approach I took with these pants was to taper my self-drafted wide leg pants pattern. It was the easiest way to get to the end result, and I'm pretty happy with them. I used the Dani Pants leg lining it up just below the hip where the leg widths were the same and used that to taper the leg. I usually do a 26" inseam when I make these with wide legs, but added 1" for this version. I also added a few inches for a fold up cuffed hem. 

I've been sewing this self-drafted pattern since 2015. This is probably my 10th or 11th pair including shorts versions. You can read more about the drafting process here. The time and effort I put into drafting my own has definitely paid off.

I've been tinkering with a couple different approaches to pull on tapered pants. After a few iterations I learned for my own experience and basted the pants together, before cutting the pockets, to check the fit before I went all in with the finish. It would be a real bummer to serge up the sides only to discover my feet don't fit though the leg openings. That didn't actually happen, but I'm beginning to anticipate failure, and learn from mistakes. 

The fabric is Robert Kaufman14 wale corduroy in Rust from fabric. com. It'slovely fabric. I love, love, LOVE the color. I've been searching for nail polish this color all through the fall, but pants work just as well.  I was a little worried the nappy fabric would attract lint, but so far that concern seems unfounded. The are wearing very well. 

I'm wearing them with my Hilary Top, pattern by Tessuti Fabrics, that I've blogged before. This fabric goes with everything and nothing and works well with the color of these pants. 

The sweater is the one off (actually 2), no pattern, version of the kids' Passing Showers Tee. I won't share much about this as I still have the best intentions of sharing more about  making this size at some point, but don't feel like figuring it out not. 

Not gonna lie, wearing 3 handmade piece has me feeling pretty proud of myself. Wearing 2 pieces of my own design has me feeling so smug I can barely stand to be in the same room with myself. It's got volume, it's got texture, it's mixed media. What's not to love? I could, and probably should, feign humility, but this outfit makes me feel like a million bucks. 

Outfit Details:

Pants Pattern: Self-drafted some details here

Pants Fabric: Robert Kaufman 14 Wale Corduroy in Rust from Fabric. com

Shirt Pattern: Hilary Top by Tessuti Fabrics

Shirt Fabric: Block Print Cotton from Etsy

Shirt Details: Here

Sweater Pattern: My own

Sweater Yarn: O-wool Balance color Natural

Short, Shorter, Shortest: 3 Cropped Mandy Boat Tees

Looking for the most bang for my very limited sewing time, I made a trio of the Tessuti Fabrics Mandy Boat Tee. The Mandy is a super simple knit top with perfectly relaxed proportions. The swingy body, snug arms, and collarbone sweeping neckline make it my wardrobe refresh garment of the moment.  There are 2 sleeve lengths included in this FREE! pattern. I made size 2 (small/medium) for all 3 tops.   I added 1" to the 3/4 length option. The prescribed hem length is around hip length. I cropped mine at 3 different lengths to in search of my crop top ideal with high waisted pants. 

Short

Let's start with the short (which is actually the longest) top. This exercise was meant to be a bit of a length experiment. I knew I wanted cropped tees, but I wasn't quite sure how cropped. I was hedging my bets with the first top and cropped it 5". I pinned up this version to test drive the shorter lengths. After wearing it for a while, I think this one has scissors in it's future. It's a bit too long for what I had in mind. 

I'm wearing this Mandy with my very favorite self-drafted linen pants. 

Shorter

After trying on the Short version, I cut 2 more inches off the next Shorter top (shortened 7" total). I LOVE this length. It is clearly within the crop top trend but is still totally wearable, and covers all the bits of fairly modest me. This is definitely my cropped Mandy sweet spot. I'm not temped to tuck it in, and it works with my vast collection of high waisted pants and shorts. This will definitely be a warm weather staple. The navy and white stripe cotton jersey is (sold out) from Blackbird Fabrics.

I'm wearing this Mandy with some self-drafted linen shorts I made a few summers ago. 

Shortest

The Shortest top is actually the inspiration for the crop top exercise. I wanted to play with the clashing and coordinating qualities for the burgundy, crimson, and peach of the tencel skirt, and cotton jersey shirt fabrics. I also wanted the top to show a bit of the narrowest part of my waist to get the proportions that I wanted. I think the proportion and color results are spot on. I love the hint of narrow waist juxtaposed with the exaggerated width of the top. The thing I forgot to consider is what is just above this extra high waisted skirt, my boobs! In truth it falls a little short (pun intended) on the wearability scale. I worry I'm just a gentle breeze away from a wardrobe malfunction. I'll certainly wear it with this super high waisted skirt (and a presentable bra), but not with other pants. I think I have enough fabric to make another, slightly longer, one. And I'm not above making or owning 2 nearly identical shirts.

I'm wearing this Mandy with the self-drafted skirt from a couple posts ago. The crimson and peach cotton jersey is from Blackbird Fabrics. The tencel twill skirt fabric is from Fabric.com. 

Supply List:

T-shirt Pattern: Mandy Boat Tee by Tessuti Fabrics

Short:

Cropped 5"

Fabric: From my stash

Shorter:

Cropped 7"

Fabric: Navy and White Cotton Jersey (sold out) from Blackbird Fabrics

Shortest:

Cropped 9"

Fabric: Crimson and Peach Cotton Jersey from Blackbird Fabrics

Tessuti Alice

I made this top in June, but by the end of July I had given up looking for a spare minute to document the project, then edit the photos. Why pursue this indoor hobby, when there are so many better things going on outside? No, by August I had released my mind from the burden of trying to keep a civilized schedule and thrown myself to the mercy of the moment. By the time I had reached a state of complete mommy zen, and had no idea what day of the week it was (or where to find our dental forms and school shoes), I realized September had crept up on me completely undetected. I still have a few things to cross off my summer to-do list, this top is one of them. For the sake of closure, and to retain some relevance, I’m forcing myself to blog about this bugger as a mental exercise intended to direct my brain back toward our normal routine, which incidentally starts on Tuesday. (I know it’s later than most of you, but please feel sorry for me just the same, and I promise to envy you when it’s late June and we’re still in school.)

PATTERN: Alice Top by Tessuti Fabrics. The pattern, instructions, and construction leave a bit to be desired. In an age of easy information, and patterns that hold your hand from pdf assembly, to how to clip the seams, this pattern seems a bit vague. What could be simple construction is muddled by the use of seam stabilizer. It may be beneficial in a few instances of especially delicate fabric (comments in defense of seam stabilizer will be graciously accepted), but serves only to confuse in this case.

The yokes and sleeves are all faced, making it possible to fully enclose all of the yoke seams. This is an opportunity totally missed by instructions that leave those seams exposed. I’ve seen a few people have altered their construction for the cleaner finish, but I didn’t bother. I am much too lazy to enclose those seams, but I’d really like the designer to expect if of me, giving me the opportunity to totally let them down.

I’m not saying any of this to be negative, only to inform. With these small flaws, this is still well worth your effort, and has a lot of potential for showcasing bold, or even sheer fabrics to their best advantage.

I can safely say I would make this pattern again, because I already have. I borrowed my sweet sister’s car for a few days and I made her an Alice exactly like mine (but with a different scrap for the tag, and a different size) to return the favor. It must be a good deal when we both feel like we’re getting the better end of the bargain.

FABRIC: This is cotton shirting from Joann. The look is inspired by (or brazen knock off of) one from the Tessuti blog, which is likely made with linen. I like the simple turning of the stripe, but linen is definitely a more appropriate choice for this design. The shirting is a bit rigid for the drapey style.

FIT: As recommended by several other sewists, I sized down for both tops, and would recommend you do the same.

Details:

Pattern: Alice Top from Tessuti Fabrics

Fabric: Cotton Shirting from Joann Fabrics

Pants: Old Navy last season.

Boots: Sole Society snagged after Celina (love her style) brought them to my attention via Pinterest

Recently Painted Barn Door & Crisply Mowed Lawn: One of a Kind.