Papers by Sylvia Mitschke
rheinform, 2018
The article is about principles of textile conservation in museums and preservation of monuments.... more The article is about principles of textile conservation in museums and preservation of monuments. It is illustrated that textile conservators are involved in all fundamental aims of the institutions, namely collecting, conserving, researching, communicating and exhibiting.
in: M. Tellenbach, R. Schulz, A. Wieczorek (Hrsg.), Die Macht der Toga, Ausstellungskatalog Hildesheim (Regensburg 2013)
1 Fragment eines wollenen Taquetés aus dem frühmittelalterlichen Grab 58 von Trossingen (Ldkr. Tu... more 1 Fragment eines wollenen Taquetés aus dem frühmittelalterlichen Grab 58 von Trossingen (Ldkr. Tuttlingen) Die Macht der Toga.indb 21 26.03.13 16:36 2 Detail eines seidenen Samitgewebes (11./12. Jh. n. Chr.) aus dem Bleisarg der Königin Editha im Dom zu Magdeburg. In der komplexen Bindung agieren zwei Kett-und zwei oder mehr Schusssysteme miteinander, was einen hohen technischen Aufwand erforderlich macht. 3 Faseranalyse im Rasterelektronenmikroskop. Mit dem am CEZA zur Anwendung kommenden Gerät (Zeiss EVO MA 25) können Textilien mit einem Durchmesser kleiner als 40 cm ohne eine vorherige Probenentnahme oder Besputterung untersucht werden, was für die eher kleinformatigen archäologischen Textilien in der Regel ausreicht. Die Macht der Toga.indb 22 26.03.13 16:36
In: Johanna Banck-Burgess, Carla Nübold (Hrsg.) North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles 11 (NESAT XI), Rahden, Westf. 2013, 45-56.
Die Deutsche Bibliothek verzeichnet diese Publikation in der Deutschen Nationalbibliografi e.
Der Beitrag erläutert die Vorgehensweisen und Fallstricke bei der Analyse archäologischer Textilien.
Information Wissenschaft und Praxis, 2009
The aim of the EU-project “Clothing and Identities – New Perspectives on Textiles in the Roman Em... more The aim of the EU-project “Clothing and Identities – New Perspectives on Textiles in the Roman Empire (DressID)” was to examine peoples self-perception in the Roman Empire, focussing on dress as an expression of ethnic, regional, religious, social and gender self-representation.
Important information was not only obtained by analysing complete garments, but also by looking at little textile fragments. Even a single thread gave insight into the different aspects of antique textile technology. It was therefore one of the main issues of DressID to trace markers that define typical Roman standards for textile quality and to distinguish them from regional production, since these items prove the interchange of goods. Thus a contribution was made in understanding the nature of Romanisation.
Archaeological textiles are only preserved under advantageous environmental conditions, for example in compact soils under quasi-exclusion of air or in combination with metal objects. Textiles preserved by metal corrosion deserve a higher attention, because they often keep small impressions of original contexts. By careful documentation they can provide a basis for functional evaluations. Textiles in combination with lamps often served as wicks. Especially in graves they also can represent covers in which the lamp was enwrapped or parts of the clothing of the deceased. Analytical science plays a major role in ensuring the appropriate interpretation.
METHODS:
In a first step the construction of the textile is analysed. Reflected light microscopes are suitable for that purpose, where technical details such as the spinning of the thread and the weave can be determined.
On the inside of a lamp from Nijmegen, now kept there in the Museum Het Valkhof, different textile structures could be seen. The bulky, ca. 0.5 cm thick wick was made of several loose s-twisted threads about the same size and inserted into the nozzle. The filling-hole in the top of the oil chamber was closed with a textile fragment. The surface of the undyed tabby woven piece with ca. 14 s-twisted threads per cm in warp and weft showed mechanical damages.
In another lamp which was found in the soutwestern corner of the Capitolium´s Insula in Xanten a rest of a voluminous thread was found in one of the wick holes. The softly s-twisted yarn was about 2-3 mm thick and burnt on one side. Under a transmitted light microscope with polarized light many cross lines were visible in the longitudinal view, which is a typical feature of bast fibres such as hemp or nettle. Under the scanning electron microscope one could easily see the so-called displacements which are characteristic for linen, the fibre made from flax (Linum usitatissimum L.).
CONCLUSIONS:
The textile fragment in the filling-hole of the lamp from Nijmegen was probably used to regulate the air supply of the oil chamber. Evidently a worn rest in a middle quality was reused for that purpose.
The construction of both analysed lamp wicks was aligned with their later use: The threads were made of opened linen and only loosely twisted, which by capillary attraction drew up the oil in small successive portions. Their thickness of about 2 to 5 mm ensured moderate oil consumption. Therefore it can be assumed that specialised workshops for the production of wicks must have existed. The s-twist of all the threads may indicate a localisation in the Eastern Mediterranea.
The organic remains inside three silver vessels belonging to so-called Priam´s treasure were inve... more The organic remains inside three silver vessels belonging to so-called Priam´s treasure were investigated. The analysis gave no indication for a former heat event as assumed by Heinrich Schliemann, but pointed to a careful and intentional deposition of the objects.
in: M. Tellenbach, R. Schulz, A. Wieczorek (Hrsg.), Die Macht der Toga, Ausstellungskatalog Hildesheim (Regensburg 2013)
Geraubt und im Rhein versunken. Der Barbarenschatz, 2006
The textile remains from the hoard find from Neupotz (mid to late 3rd century AD) were investigat... more The textile remains from the hoard find from Neupotz (mid to late 3rd century AD) were investigated. The analysis revealed that textiles used to cover e.g. metal fittings completely. Therefore it is suggested that the metal objects were dismantled and then wrapped for transport.
Die Bestattungsplätze des römischen Militärlagers und Civitas-Hauptortes Nida, 2011
Die Bestattungsplätze des römischen Militär Schriften des Archäologischen Museums Frankfurt 20/1 Peter Fasoldlagers und Civitas-Hauptortes Nida (Frankfurt am Main-Heddernheim und Praunheim) Auswertung, 2011
Archaeological Textiles Newsletter, 2009
Helmets with face masks as part of the Roman cavalry equipment are quite seldom, but in the 1990i... more Helmets with face masks as part of the Roman cavalry equipment are quite seldom, but in the 1990ies findings increased, mainly in the lower Rhine area. Some of these helmets, belonging to the collections of the Museum Het Valkhof, Nijmegen, the Römermuseum Xanten and the Landesmuseum in Bonn, were investigated in a German-Dutch joint project in 2006/2007. The title of the project, the connected exhibition and the catalogue was „Behind the silver mask“.
The helmets belong to the group of the so called cavalry sports helmets, because it is assumed that they were used for training, not for combat purposes of the roman cavalry.
Usually they consist of two parts, a mask which covers the face and a skull piece, which protects the back of the head.
Four of the helmets, 3 from Nijmegen and 1 from Xanten, showed textile remains on their skulls. In the literature these coatings were described as fur or animal skins, sometimes as hair nets. The article explains the results of the new research performed.
Carnuntum als Provinzhauptstadt Pannoniens und Sitz des Kaisers Marc Aurel im 2. Jahrhundert hatt... more Carnuntum als Provinzhauptstadt Pannoniens und Sitz des Kaisers Marc Aurel im 2. Jahrhundert hatte wohl die Bedeutung einer „Weltstadt“, was sich auch in den hier gefundenen Textilien ausdrückt. Besonders hervorzuheben sind die Textilien bei einem künstlich mumifizierten Mädchen, sowie die Gold- und Seidenfunde aus Gräbern. Obwohl aus Carnuntum nur von insgesamt fünf verschiedenen Gräbern, mehreren Schuppenpanzerfragmenten aus dem Standlager und einem Streufund vom Auxiliarkastell Gewebereste erhalten blieben, zeigen sie eine für Österreich beispiellose Vielfalt und Pracht in unterschiedlichem Kontext. Alle Funde datieren in das 3. Jahrhundert/Beginn 4. Jahrhundert.
Antike Welt, 2014
Aus Sicht der Forschung ist der Vesuvausbruch im Jahre 79 n. Chr. ein Glücksfall. Nirgends sonst ... more Aus Sicht der Forschung ist der Vesuvausbruch im Jahre 79 n. Chr. ein Glücksfall. Nirgends sonst lässt sich das römische Alltagsleben so gut fassen wie in den von Aschemassen begrabenen Städten. Dabei mag es überraschend erscheinen, dass sich trotz des Infernos auch zahlreiche textile Reste erhalten haben, die Licht auf einen nicht unerheblichen Wirtschaftsfaktor der Stadt werfen. Hier werden nun erstmals das weite Spektrum der Textilfunde und deren Erhaltung vorgestellt.
Note: The knitted fabric has meanwhile proven to be modern (early modern period)!!!
Auf den Spuren antiker Textilkultur. Textile Hinterlassenschaften zur Zeit des Vesuvausbruchs 79 n. Chr, 2017
in: M. Tellenbach, R. Schulz, A. Wieczorek (Hrsg.), Die Macht der Toga, Ausstellungskatalog Hildesheim (Regensburg 2013)
Dressing the dead in classical antiquity, 2012
Since its discovery in 2005, a double-chambered chieftain’s grave from Poprad-Matejovce, northern... more Since its discovery in 2005, a double-chambered chieftain’s grave from Poprad-Matejovce, northern Slovakia, dated to the early Migration period (late 4th / early 5th century AD) has been revealing many surprises. The excavation was done in 2006 under the guidance of three institutions: the Archeologický ústav Slovenskej akadémie vied in Nitra, the Podtatranské múzeum in Poprad and the Archäologisches Landesmuseum, Stiftung Schleswig-Holsteinische Landesmuseen, Schloss Gottorf in Schleswig. Although the grave was penetrated by ancient robbers, it yielded abundant evidence of organic finds: wooden furniture parts, leather objects, bast fragments and layers of textiles. Fragile waterlogged organic finds as well as in situ blocks were transported to Schleswig, where they were stored at a temperature of -20°C and since then have been processed step by step under laboratory conditions. The following article gives a brief insight into the laboratory working process and presents the preliminary results from the analysis of various textile finds recovered from the in situ blocks.
In: M. Bravermanová, H. Březinová and J. Malcolm-Davies (Eds.), Archaeological Textiles – Links Between Past and Present. NESAT XIII. Liberec - Praha: Technical University of Liberec, Faculty of Textile Engineering in cooperation with Institute of Archaeology of the CAS, Prague, 61-72.
The paper deals with the best-preserved textiles from the double-chambered chieftain’s grave of P... more The paper deals with the best-preserved textiles from the double-chambered chieftain’s grave of Poprad-Matejovce (late 4th century AD), including more than 150 fragments of finely woven polychrome slit tapestry made of sheep’s wool. Since the grave was penetrated by ancient robbers, none of the artefacts were found in their primary location, thus making their interpretation, including that of the textiles and dyes, difficult. This paper describes the find context of these textiles, their recovery and conservation, technological aspects, and an analysis of the quality and colours.
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Papers by Sylvia Mitschke
Important information was not only obtained by analysing complete garments, but also by looking at little textile fragments. Even a single thread gave insight into the different aspects of antique textile technology. It was therefore one of the main issues of DressID to trace markers that define typical Roman standards for textile quality and to distinguish them from regional production, since these items prove the interchange of goods. Thus a contribution was made in understanding the nature of Romanisation.
Archaeological textiles are only preserved under advantageous environmental conditions, for example in compact soils under quasi-exclusion of air or in combination with metal objects. Textiles preserved by metal corrosion deserve a higher attention, because they often keep small impressions of original contexts. By careful documentation they can provide a basis for functional evaluations. Textiles in combination with lamps often served as wicks. Especially in graves they also can represent covers in which the lamp was enwrapped or parts of the clothing of the deceased. Analytical science plays a major role in ensuring the appropriate interpretation.
METHODS:
In a first step the construction of the textile is analysed. Reflected light microscopes are suitable for that purpose, where technical details such as the spinning of the thread and the weave can be determined.
On the inside of a lamp from Nijmegen, now kept there in the Museum Het Valkhof, different textile structures could be seen. The bulky, ca. 0.5 cm thick wick was made of several loose s-twisted threads about the same size and inserted into the nozzle. The filling-hole in the top of the oil chamber was closed with a textile fragment. The surface of the undyed tabby woven piece with ca. 14 s-twisted threads per cm in warp and weft showed mechanical damages.
In another lamp which was found in the soutwestern corner of the Capitolium´s Insula in Xanten a rest of a voluminous thread was found in one of the wick holes. The softly s-twisted yarn was about 2-3 mm thick and burnt on one side. Under a transmitted light microscope with polarized light many cross lines were visible in the longitudinal view, which is a typical feature of bast fibres such as hemp or nettle. Under the scanning electron microscope one could easily see the so-called displacements which are characteristic for linen, the fibre made from flax (Linum usitatissimum L.).
CONCLUSIONS:
The textile fragment in the filling-hole of the lamp from Nijmegen was probably used to regulate the air supply of the oil chamber. Evidently a worn rest in a middle quality was reused for that purpose.
The construction of both analysed lamp wicks was aligned with their later use: The threads were made of opened linen and only loosely twisted, which by capillary attraction drew up the oil in small successive portions. Their thickness of about 2 to 5 mm ensured moderate oil consumption. Therefore it can be assumed that specialised workshops for the production of wicks must have existed. The s-twist of all the threads may indicate a localisation in the Eastern Mediterranea.
The helmets belong to the group of the so called cavalry sports helmets, because it is assumed that they were used for training, not for combat purposes of the roman cavalry.
Usually they consist of two parts, a mask which covers the face and a skull piece, which protects the back of the head.
Four of the helmets, 3 from Nijmegen and 1 from Xanten, showed textile remains on their skulls. In the literature these coatings were described as fur or animal skins, sometimes as hair nets. The article explains the results of the new research performed.
Note: The knitted fabric has meanwhile proven to be modern (early modern period)!!!
Important information was not only obtained by analysing complete garments, but also by looking at little textile fragments. Even a single thread gave insight into the different aspects of antique textile technology. It was therefore one of the main issues of DressID to trace markers that define typical Roman standards for textile quality and to distinguish them from regional production, since these items prove the interchange of goods. Thus a contribution was made in understanding the nature of Romanisation.
Archaeological textiles are only preserved under advantageous environmental conditions, for example in compact soils under quasi-exclusion of air or in combination with metal objects. Textiles preserved by metal corrosion deserve a higher attention, because they often keep small impressions of original contexts. By careful documentation they can provide a basis for functional evaluations. Textiles in combination with lamps often served as wicks. Especially in graves they also can represent covers in which the lamp was enwrapped or parts of the clothing of the deceased. Analytical science plays a major role in ensuring the appropriate interpretation.
METHODS:
In a first step the construction of the textile is analysed. Reflected light microscopes are suitable for that purpose, where technical details such as the spinning of the thread and the weave can be determined.
On the inside of a lamp from Nijmegen, now kept there in the Museum Het Valkhof, different textile structures could be seen. The bulky, ca. 0.5 cm thick wick was made of several loose s-twisted threads about the same size and inserted into the nozzle. The filling-hole in the top of the oil chamber was closed with a textile fragment. The surface of the undyed tabby woven piece with ca. 14 s-twisted threads per cm in warp and weft showed mechanical damages.
In another lamp which was found in the soutwestern corner of the Capitolium´s Insula in Xanten a rest of a voluminous thread was found in one of the wick holes. The softly s-twisted yarn was about 2-3 mm thick and burnt on one side. Under a transmitted light microscope with polarized light many cross lines were visible in the longitudinal view, which is a typical feature of bast fibres such as hemp or nettle. Under the scanning electron microscope one could easily see the so-called displacements which are characteristic for linen, the fibre made from flax (Linum usitatissimum L.).
CONCLUSIONS:
The textile fragment in the filling-hole of the lamp from Nijmegen was probably used to regulate the air supply of the oil chamber. Evidently a worn rest in a middle quality was reused for that purpose.
The construction of both analysed lamp wicks was aligned with their later use: The threads were made of opened linen and only loosely twisted, which by capillary attraction drew up the oil in small successive portions. Their thickness of about 2 to 5 mm ensured moderate oil consumption. Therefore it can be assumed that specialised workshops for the production of wicks must have existed. The s-twist of all the threads may indicate a localisation in the Eastern Mediterranea.
The helmets belong to the group of the so called cavalry sports helmets, because it is assumed that they were used for training, not for combat purposes of the roman cavalry.
Usually they consist of two parts, a mask which covers the face and a skull piece, which protects the back of the head.
Four of the helmets, 3 from Nijmegen and 1 from Xanten, showed textile remains on their skulls. In the literature these coatings were described as fur or animal skins, sometimes as hair nets. The article explains the results of the new research performed.
Note: The knitted fabric has meanwhile proven to be modern (early modern period)!!!