Collar construction

One issue that comes up with these large 19th century coat collars is how to apply the top collar fabric. "What are the issues?", you ask- well, first an explanation of the standard jacket collar and how the top fabric is traditionally applied. The traditional suit undercollar is a one piece pattern in which one edge joins to the neckline of the coat and folds along a predetermined roll line, to form the fall of the collar. These have a stand that usually ranges from 2.5cm to 3.5cm deep. The…

Today's post was a request from a lovely lady who lives in Sri Lanka. She has really embraced pattern drafting and is so excited about the...

As part of the Make Nine Challenge I'm making my very first trench coat. In this post I'll show you how to draft and adjust the pattern.

Tailored Collar Detail

Basic Collar (Camp Collar) The basic collar is a convertible collar that can be worn open or closed. All you need to make this collar is the neckline measurements of your block; the front neck and the back neck measurements. Example: Outcome Figure A shows the collar that will be created in the step-by-step

Here's the first collar of my collar theme month! :) It might look like 3 collars one on top of the other but in reality I created the effect by layering. There's a little facing underneath each layer. As I ended up making the collar piece higher, I also needed to raise the collar stand height by the same amount. (That 4,5cm refers to the final height at c.b.). I also changed the inclination of the collar tip by 0,5cm. The second picture shows how to trace all the pieces. The undercollar…

Learn how to sew different types of collars: Peter Pan, Stand-up, Shirt, Shawl, and the Notched Jacket Collar.

Looking for small sewing project ideas? Here's a tutorial with different detachable collar designs for you to try out.