Merry Christmas!

Starting today, Josefin Strid has posted sample items on sale and has put all A/W 11 items on sale. I was all set to calculate the conversion of SEK to CDN, but then I saw that they only ship within the EU. Sigh. Some lucky (EU and size 36) girl will be getting the perfect sliced felted wool Chopin Coat at less than ten percent of the original price.

If you're looking for a cheaper Christmas present, a new Eluveitie song (which will be on their new album to be released in February) has just been posted (click here). You're welcome.

Anyway, I'm off to try to make my VCR work so I can watch It's A Wonderful Life while I wrap some presents, and then try to get my new Tiffany glasses adjusted so I can actually wear them. Though I feel like I'm cheating on Dame Westwood by wearing them...

Isobel

While we're on the topic of my personal fashion icons, let me direct your attention to the indomitable Björk in McQueen. For those of you lucky enough to go to the Savage Beauty exhibit, this custom dress is of course a tweaked version of the S/S 2001 dress made out of lab slides that greeted you at the exhibit entrance, as seen above. I, in fact, was threatened to be thrown out of the exhibit (the second time I went) when I attempted to take a photo of it and it's counterpart. Me, a polite little Canadian. Gee whiz.

(Photo via Alexander McQueen Facebook, by Sølve Sundsbø)

After all this time?*

Alan Rickman as Severus Snape is definitely a source of inspiration for how to dress in both drapey and fitted black clothing. I couldn't find a photo on the Internets showing the detail at the bottom of Snape's pants, but each leg has a row of buttons going up the side seam (you can see a shot during Harry's first Quidditch game in the first movie, in case you're wondering). As I have the same detailing at the bottom of my mono pants, I can attest to the usefulness of this, especially when you wear extra high Chucks. It also gives the impression of having built-in spats, which are always key when wanting to look uber stylish. Though, of course, Alan Rickman is always uber stylish. Particularly when he's surrounded by books in a Manhattan loft (see Seminar if you can!).

By the way, if you've been wanting to get your own SHIN piece like me, take a look at the SHIN webshop. They're only from the older collections, but they're 60-75% off! goodmorning - midnight also has a holiday sale on Etsy right now. Those wool dresses are excellent alternative business wear, if you ask me.

(Photo via Google Images)


*Always.

Modern Epidemic

Why is boring and (often ill-)fitted considered business attire, and not interesting and drapey? Especially when it's Christmas time and the office is full of chocolates and cookies? And the lunchtime walk route is through a sea of identically dressed people? If I was the decider of the decisions, butterflysoulfire would dictate what 'business attire' means. Also, Christmas lights would replace every ugly light fixture, and everyone would get to listen to Henry Rollins (and Jamie Woon) at work.

Speaking of Christmas, to all of those who have found your way here because you're interested in ugly Christmas sweaters, welcome.

(Photos via NJAL)

Stefanie Nieuwenhuyse

Now that I work in a corporate downtown environment, I'm thinking I should carry around a notebook with me for the sole purpose of recording my pet peeves and observations about corporate fashion. Because, in general, where I live, downtown fashion is not a pretty sight. Really, I'm thinking I should turn my growing mental list of pet peeves into a regular feature here (and perhaps ridiculous little children's stories to at least give each a humorous reason for their existence). But for now, I'd like to showcase how one should do animal skins. This is the work of Masters student (at Kingston University, alma mater of our Stacey Grant) and excellently named Stefanie Nieuwenhuyse. By laser-cutting pieces of discarded plywood, she has created these ridiculously wonderful garments that bio-mimic reptile skins. Because there's never a good reason to wear real reptile skins. I have a feeling Stefanie would feel right at home in the house of McQueen. Looking forward to see where this one goes!

(Photos via NJAL)

Malgorzata Dudek

Here on kOs, I mostly stick to posting practical clothing that I would wear (at least given the right situation). However, sometimes I see something that I just can't stop looking at. I actually saw these pieces by Polish designer Malgorzata Dudek a few weeks ago in a couple of places on the Internets, with the most recent being a post by Queen Michelle. Her Highness focused on the incorporation of artist H. R. Giger's images into Malgorzata's S/S 12 collection, as she was already familiar with Giger's work. I, however, am completely ignorant of Giger and his work, and I find Malgorzata's dress with the 3D baby heads quite disturbing (although completely perfect for Lady Gaga...), and I may or may not have stopped reading the post at the point. However, Malgorzata popped back up on my radar today (via NJAL) and I was struck by the level of McQueen-like aesthetic in the non-baby head pieces (click on the photos below for full-length detail). This collection is quite a fantastic progression of Malgorzata's couture skills, and I'm definitely looking forward to seeing more from her.

mea gaudia narret,/dicetur si quis non habuisse sua.

In case you've been wondering, a whole slew of things have been both improving my week and keeping me away from my blog and the blogosphere in general. My favorite distractions are as follows:

1) Music from Satyagraha. The videos I can find on the YouTubes are from the earlier Met production of the same opera. So Gandhi is played by someone else, and I think that the music is slightly faster (even though Philip Glass said that they sped it up a bit this time around). Nonetheless, I find the repetitive music and (Sanskrit) lyrics quite relaxing.

2) American Gods (The Tenth Anniversary Edition). I got a signed copy of this last time I was in NY when I saw Neil Gaiman at 92nd Street Y (eek!), but just got around to reading it now (seeing as my David Foster Wallace obsession has plateaued for a bit). This is my third or fourth time through the book, but, bless my bad memory, I can't yet tell where the added bits are (as it's 12,000 words longer than the original version). It's wonderful.

3) Homemade mulled cider. Yum.

4) My research. If things don't work out in the job world, my next move is to finally go back to school. And so, I have been planning out a thesis for the last couple months, which has quite quickly developed into something wonderfully exciting and possibly groundbreaking (and/or controversial), at least to the handful of scholars that actually care about this topic. And really, even if I don't go back to school for one reason or another, I'm planning on continuing my studies and writing as an independent researcher. This topic has been in the back of my head since I graduated with my BA in 2007, and it hasn't left me alone since. So I figured it's finally time to give it a go and get everything down on paper and out into the world. Expect to hear updates on the whole thing right here (whether you want to or not...).

5) Hoodies. I used to wear at least one hoodie a day, but with my work attire, that section of my wardrobe has been sorely neglected. Now, after seeing that beautiful one by Boris Bidjan Saberi and entering into the long dark winter, my eyes have been catching on every hoodie with potential. And this one from Audrey Cantwell's Ovate has lots of potential. Previous to the unorthodox complexgeometries stifler hoodie adopted from my man, I would only wear ones with zippers. I am now ready to wear a closure-less hoodie. I even have some funds in my PayPal account to help me make this next step in my growth as a hoodie connoisseur.

Marit Eken Kalager

The last week has been so ridiculously busy that I haven't even been able to visit my favorite blogs and sites that I normally devote my morning to. I'm immensely happy that I took a couple seconds to reconnect with the Internets today, however, as I discovered Norwegian designer Marit Eken Kalager (via NJAL). Marit creates these 100% wool structured garments with a knitting machine and the felting process. And, while the photos don't quite showcase how spectacular I think they'd look on, I think you can appreciate the general romantic-(and cozy-)monk/nun feel of her work. Or at least I can. Marit also has a webshop, so it's probably good that I can't figure out how to use it.

Satyagraha

I saw one of the most intriguing and visually/aurally stunning things today, being (the Met Opera's Live in HD screening of) Philip Glass' opera, Satyagraha. First of all, it's about Gandhi. Second, it's sung in Sanskrit and, more precisely, the text consists of lines from the Bhagavad Gita. Third, it has an incredibly extravagant stage and abstract collection of props controlled by the skills ensemble, who are also part of the cast. Fourth, only a few (fragmentary) subtitles are provided for what is being sung, and these subtitles are actually (and rather brilliantly) incorporated into the stage and props via projections. Fifth, if everyone goes and sees this opera and keeps it running for years to come, the newspaper industry (and, subsequently, the recycling industry) will never die. Not to mention the packing tape industry.

I'll actually be in NY for the last live performance of this opera, but, alas, I already have tickets to a nerdy (i.e. Classics-related) event at BAM. If you can see it before it ends, do try, as I definitely think this is the type of thing that would be best experienced live (especially to really grasp the size of those newspaper puppets). But, then again, you'd never get to see up close the damage that stage makeup does to the collar of a white shirt.

(Photo by Sara Krulwich, via NYTimes.com)

Rachel Antonio, A/W 11/12

I'll be making the not-so-long march into the east once again in a couple of weeks, and I'm really quite excited to do my Christmas shopping in NY. Though the reality is that I probably won't be able to afford more than a I ♥ NY magnet for everyone, I'm thinking it's time to actually go into those big famous stores in Manhattan that you see in the movies all the time. Like Tiffany's and whatnot. But I feel like I should be wearing something slightly more glamorous than what my closet can offer. And so I've decided that I'd like Scottish designer Rachel Antonio to make my NY #4 wardrobe. Her A/W 11/12 collection features Scottish tweeds, wool, and crepe de chine, a.k.a. ingredients for a warm and stylish trip. I'm thinking that the top left outfit will be perfect for seeing Jamie Woon, the next outfit down will make my evening with Alan Rickman even more wonderful, and the outfit below will do double duty for finding the perfect gift and for spending an afternoon in my happy place (the Met). Sigh.

(Photos via NJAL)

Paper or plastic?

In truth, you'll need paper (i.e. kleenex) to watch this film (by Ramin Bahrani) about a plastic bag. Narrated by the incomparable Werner Herzog, scored by Kjartan Sveinsson (of Sigur Rós), and via Coilhouse.

Complimentary Lining

The #1 item on my Winter 11/12 want list? This wool/polyamide/cashmere vest by Thomas Tait which makes me rather speechless. And the #2 item? This hoodie by Boris Bidjan Saberi, which may in fact be the best hoodie I've seen yet. Both available at Reborn (with free shipping this weekend).

chloé comme parris

Another Canadian label is now on my radar, teaching me to beware of judging a label by their name (though, in my defense, a name is a label...). I came across the work of sister duo Chloé and Parris Gordon when searching for photos of Laura Siegel's show at this last Toronto Fashion Week, but immediately thought the label name, chloé comme parris, seemed like they were being a bit too blunt about not being a Paris or London Fashion Week-worthy label. Little did I know that the moniker is based on the designer's first names. Sigh. Anyway, the Internets seems to be all happy about ccp's move away from the more goth-friendly look with their S/S 12 collection, but it's that dark and depressing mood of the A/W 11 collection (via NJAL) that really gets me happy. I could post the majority of the photos here as they all look like outfits I would wear a time or two. But I really want to focus on my favorite piece. It's the perfect combination of my Patricia Ayres Artisanal Coat, business casual (notice the turned up cuffs?), and something medieval. Why don't I have warm pieces that aren't winter jackets? I want this.

ccp also has a webshop featuring items from, I believe, the A/W 10 collection that are all fantastically on sale. I would have to look into their sizing a bit closer before ordering anything, but they have some great stuff. A blazer with the Rad Hourani aesthetic, shoulder cut-outs, AND ribbed cuffs? Oh, and it closes with magnets (do not hug your VHS copy of 10 Things I Hate About You while wearing this...). Sisters Gordon, I give you 10 out of 10.

Dori Tomcsanyi, Winter 11/12

And speaking of Dori Tomcsanyi, Dori has just posted her Winter 11/12 collection AND has put it up in her webshop to order. Rather thoughtful of her, especially as she seems to price her pieces fairly low and in sizes other than 'S'. However, seeing as I just booked another trip to you-know-where, I think I'll have to wait for the next collection to be posted so that this one goes on sale (as the S/S 11 is now, and at quite a discount too). Sigh. Anyway, I'll be checking back on all of the above pieces. The new blazer, for instance, doesn't catch my eye like her other one, but I can't help but think that waterproofing the bottom of a jacket is never a bad thing. Her one piece 'trouser dungerees' make me think I should be looking in the automotive section of the job ads. My still unrequited resolve to get some silk pajamas, now strengthened after seeing Sofia Coppola pose in some in Vogue, makes me consider that robe-inspired piece, which somehow is actually a lined winter jacket. And that full-length hand-knit bamboo/cotton dress! I am still waiting for Dori to go back to the neutrals of that brilliant S/S 10 collection, but even someone as colour-challenged as I am can find something to like in Dori's bright palette. And with the time change meaning less sunlight while I'm awake, a little colour doesn't hurt (you'll have to go see the whole collection on her site to get the extent of the colour I've still managed to largely leave out, as my picks are the neutral ones of the bunch). 

MUUSE

This morning I stumbled upon an interesting website called MUUSE which features a fantastic selection of new fashion grads from various schools around the world, and which allows these emerging designers to sell their designs. I know, not a new idea, as NJAL and ARCADEMI both do that. MUUSE also does a similar thing to FashionStake, where a piece needs a certain amount of votes before it's put into production and available for ordering. Such a design might not even exist as a sample before it gets the go ahead from MUUSE's visitors and potential customers, and may only be a conceptual drawing until that point. However, the thing MUUSE does that is different and, I must admit, a wee bit perplexing is that MUUSE employs their own duo of tailors to both sew and ship (in/from their studio in Copenhagen) every piece that is ordered, meaning that the designer's involvement stops at the design. It may just be that I'm too used to my favorite designers on Etsy who design/market/sew/ship/everything their own designs. And I know that a lot of designers don't have the time or money (and sometimes don't have all the required skills) to be involved in the production aspect of their work. But I can't help but think that it's a bit weird to have the same two tailors recreate (with permission) the works of dozens of different designers, especially when it's not a mass production/sweatshop situation. And, having said that, I have no idea how the fashion world works outside of Etsyland. Thoughts?

Anyway, these are a couple of my favorite pieces that have received enough votes to be available to purchase from MUUSE. The above is a waxed cotton origami coat by London College of Fashion grad Holly Somers. I could see myself wearing this nearly every day (especially since I never got a hold of that blazer by kOs favorite Dori Tomcsanyi). And the below is a wool jacket by Antwerp Fashion Academy grad Nathalie Fordeyn. I quite like the idea of the collection, entitled 'Puppets', though the person-on-a-string look may mean I wouldn't get a lot of wear out of it. Though maybe it would be perfect for the winter, as it definitely has some room for a nice thick scarf in there. Hmm...