athletic racer back pattern

So close to being done this little athletic racer back top for tweens.  I popped a couple quick pictures to show y'all.  Below is one of my prototypes on girl child.  There is some changes for the final pattern but we both like this blue/black one.

The pulling on the fabric from elasticized armholes is one of the things that has been altered on the pattern.  Turns out the best way to do it is the simplest.  With all the variations on this top, I'm glad it only takes me twenty minutes or so to sew one up.  Especially with girl child playing roller derby and needing a number of different colour scrimmage shirts.  Now it is faster for me to make up a racer back and paint her player numbers on (nicely, with freezer paper, of course!) than to run to the store, buy a shirt and get it printed.  And at a fraction of the cost.

Hopefully, if life stays sane the next couple of weeks, this pattern will be available for tween girl sizes by the end of the month.  Specifically, for girls with chest/bust widths of 27" to 32" or sizes 10 to 14 in US.

What do you think?

Bunny Bottoms (free pants pattern)

I have gotten a request for a beginner-friendly pants pattern for a child who isn't growing according to the standardized charts. 

(Does any child grow like the charts say?  Mine certainly do not.  Mine are thin, Birdie is long, Smootch won't wear anything above her hipbones, and both despise anything they can't climb the monkey bars in.  So, I've never paid much attention to the charts anyway.) 

The youngun' I was asked to fit happens to be about one size too big for the Birdie Britches, which is too bad because it would of been about perfect.  I was feeling bad about cutting the sizes a touch too short (the pattern only goes to 24 months) and the toddler years are so finicky to set a limit on, I thought I would add a little supplement to the pattern in the 2T and 3T sizes.  Good for the solid one year old, comfortable enough for older toddlers who are sometimes in diapers, sometimes not and usually somewhere between.

And, as it also happens to be Bunny Time around here, may I present to you:

Bunny Bottoms for Betweens are classic elastic waisted pants for toddlers, but in a  one piece pattern, meaning you have the bare minimum of seams and they are super quick to make up (aim for one nap time - if you can get the little mite down).

Download the Bunny Bottoms for Betweens ePattern here.

A couple  of things to know before we start:

1.  To get the pattern, click the above link and save a copy of the epattern to your computer.  Print the pattern in colour using the 'no scaling' or 'actual size' option on your printer.  You will be printing off 8 sheets of paper, on which both sizes are printed.  To make sure the pattern was printed in the correct size, measure the blue line ending in an arrow on page 7 - it should be just a hair shorter than 4".  (I typically use 1" squares for measuring, but I was a bit of a hare brain today.  I apologise for this less than idealsizing check.)

2.  The paper pattern is assembled according to a simple grid (check page 2 for the legend) with pieces numbers 1-9.  The yellow lines are to be joined together, while the green and red lines are the actual pattern lines.  I suggest folding the paper back along the yellow lines and using tape or glue to join them together. 

Just as a clarification on the grid shown on page 2, the top row of the pattern is numbers 1-3, the second row is numbers 4-6, and the third row is 7-9.  Make sure to line up the green and red lines and it will turn out just fine.

3.  Once the paper pattern is assembled, you can choose the most appropriate size for your child.  The 2T is based upon a child with a 19 1/2" waist and is 15" from hip bone to ankle bone.  The 3T is for a 20 1/2" waist and 18" from hip bone to ankle bone.  Don't get too hung up on exact waist measurements.  This is an elasticized waist pant for people who generally do not have hips, so you can go an inch to either size and it will not matter much.  You want to get the length right, however, since a child with his or her ankles hanging out is a sad, sad sight.

One quarter inch seam allowance is included in the pattern.  Cut out the desired size.

4.  While you are preparing, find yourself a length of elastic, about 3/4" wide or so.  Cut it about 3" shorter than your child's waist.  Put this aside for now.

Now begins the fun stuff!

This one piece pattern is cut out just one time on fabric that is folded in half with selvages aligned (to make a double layer), with the Right Sides of the fabric facing each other.  This creates two pants pieces that are mirror images of each other.

(Right Side of the fabric is the nice side that you want to see, the Wrong Side is the back that you do not want to see.)

Potato stamped rabbits are optional.

With your two pants pieces aligned, Right Sides together, sew the Fronts together with a 1/4" seam allowance.  Then sew the Backs together.   (These are the curviest seams shown in the picture below, also marked 'Front' and 'Back' on the paper pattern).

Finish the raw edges of each seam (so they do not fray) using a serger or with a zig-zag stitch along the edge.

Next, open the pants,

and arrange them so that the Front and Back seams are aligned, meeting at the bottoms, creating the crotch region (someone give me a better word please than 'crotch' because the word gives me the heebie jebbies). 

Pin the Front and Back seams together at the crotch and align the raw edges of the legs.  Sew the inside leg seam by starting at the bottom cuff of one leg and sew up the leg, past the crotch (make a few backstitches to reinforce the stitching across the seam) and down the other leg.  Finish the raw edges.

Take your elastic that you had previously cut to be 3" smaller than your child's waist measurement and sew the ends together using a zig-zag stitch.  Because the waistband is elasticized and will be sewn in the pants directly, it is important to divide the elastic into equal portions in order to evenly sew it onto the pants.  I do this by folding it in half, marking the two ends with pins, and then folding it once more and marking the new folds with pins.  And if that didn't make much sens, just look at the picture below:

The waist of the pants also need to be portioned into equal sections. 

Pin the elastic to the Wrong Side of the pants, approximately 1/2" down from the raw edge of the pants waist, matching the elastic pins and the pants pins one to one.  As you pin, fold down the extra 1/2" of fabric over top the elastic. 

Sew the elastic to the pants, stretching the elastic as you sew.  I like to use a machine basting stitch for this part to minimize bulk, though it is not strictly necessary.

To finish the waistband, fold the elasticized waist down about 1" on the Wrong Side to completely sandwich the elastic.  Stitch close the bottom edge of the fold.

Hem the bottom of the legs with a double fold, each fold approximately 1" wide. 

(Before you do so, however, if you can manage to get the pants onto the toddler and check for a preferable length, do so.  I like to plan for pants a little bit longer than needed at the moment, since a toddler can grow half an inch over night while losing an inch around their tummy.  They are tricky this way.)

Apply pants to child.  Photograph endlessly.

solar dress (free) pattern

During a recent little heat wave, the ease and functionality of the basic sundress - no ruffles, no layers, no sleeves - become rather urgent. Believe it or not, but there are very few 'plain' dresses around here. Smootch's taste tends to run towards drag queen and I try stay out of wardrobe decisions. The high temperature, though, wore Smootch down and a dress without any extras to trap heat and a wide enough base to get a little breeze going was requested.

Happy to oblige, little lady.

This dress is a simple as I could design, while keeping my mind on wear-ability beyond these few weeks of summer weather. I like a loosely fitting bodice area, with room to grow, and adjustable straps that allow for shirts underneath without getting all bunchy and awkward are nice too. A plain Jane front allows for pockets and embellishments to be added later to make something old seem new. A classic A-line shape works great as a pinafore over fall and winter tees and sweaters.




I'm feelin' pretty good about this one.


Which is why I thought I would make it available as a free pattern for y'all.


The Solar Dress comes in sizes 2/3, 4/5, and 6/7.  The sizes are approximated to the US standard sizes (such as you would buy in ready to wear).  To give you some idea, Smootch is a petite almost six year old, wears a US 5, and is wearing the Solar Dress size 4/5.  Of course, the dress is quite forgiving size-wise, being of simple design, so do not get too hung up on the exactness of it all.  (The designer certainly didn't :D)


To assemble the dress, in addition to light or medium weight fabric (try cotton or linen) and coordinating thread, you will also need some 1/4" elastic or clear elastic. 


Now before you go clicking the link to get the pattern pieces, I'm going to warn you that the file is rather large. Sorry. I got carried away when drawing out the pattern and coloured the whole thing in.


We got playing.



(Print in 'fast' and 'grayscale' when printing if you don't want to blow out your ink cartridge. If you guys have too many problems with the file, let me know and I will draw up a basic version, sans all the colours.)


Click here to download Solar Dress ePattern.

Print the Solar Dress pattern at a 1:1 scale (or 'no scaling') for correct size.

Assembling the Pattern Puzzle

The first thing to do is assemble the ePattern.

Cut out each piece from the file and assemble the pieces as roughly shown in the illustration on the right.

Align each piece flush as indicated by the lines and colours (it'll all look right as you put it together) and tape together.

The pocket piece is intended to be traced onto another piece of paper, using the drawn pocket as a guide for shape and placement.  You could actually cut it straight out the the assembled pattern, however, if you do not mind a big pocket shaped hole in the middle.

Cutting the fabric

To begin, determine your desired size and either trace onto a separate paper or cut along the appropriate line as indicated on the pattern piece.

To cut out the front of the dress, place the full pattern along fabric folded grain-wise, folded edge of fabric aligned with long side of pattern marked 'FOLD'.  Cut out piece.  (PATTERN INCLUDES SEAM ALLOWANCE - DO NOT ADD SEAM ALLOWANCE WHEN CUTTING OUT FRONT.)

To cut out the back of the dress, fold the paper pattern piece on the dark line running from arm base across chest.  The back shape is cut from this dark line and below (the top inch or two is eliminated). Folding saves your pattern, paper, and time, not having to cut out an entire new piece for the back along.  With the pattern folded, align in the same manner on folded fabric as you did on the front.  As you cut ADD ONE INCH OF ADDITIONAL MATERIAL ON THE TOP OF THE DRESS.  This is adding some fabric to put in the elastic back, not accounted for in the pattern.

Additional pieces of fabric needed are bias cut strips for the straps and ties.  If you would like to use store bought bias tape, that is excellent, use a double folded version, or you can make your own by cutting stripes of fabric 1 1/2" wide at a 45 degree angle from the fabric grain.  Use an iron to press a double fold into the strips and conceal the raw edges.  Do not sew the edges closed just yet.

The two straps made of bias tape need to be about 25" to 35" long, depending on your desire for short or long straps and size of dress.  For bottom loops to tie straps to, cut two additional pieces of double fold bias tape each about 2" long.

Cut out four pieces of pocket.


Assembling the dress

Start by finishing the top edge of the dress front with a double folded hem.



With your bias tape straps, fold one end of each strap to conceal raw edges. Open up bias tape and align the unfinished end with the arm curve on the front piece. With the tape still open, machine baste the raw edge of the bias tape to the edge of the arm curve (see this bias tape discussion for more information).



Fold closed the tape over the edge of the arm curve. Stitch close to the edge of the tape along the entire length, finishing the arm curve and closing the strap. Repeat for other strap.



(Okay, confession: I'm not actually using bias tape above because of the limitations of the fabric panel I chose. It looks not so smooth - your bias tape will look nicer, trust me.)

Sew a pocket by placing two pocket pieces right sides together and stitching together the curved sides, leaving the straight top open. Turn the pocket right side out, fold the raw edges in on the straight side, and press flat. Stitch the straight side closed. Stitch on the pocket, in the position indicated on the pattern paper, by stitching the curved sides to the dress close to the edge. Be sure to secure the top edges with a few extra stitches for extra strength where it is likely to be pulled on often. Repeat for other pocket.

The top of the back is finished with a piece of thin elastic sewn in. Cut a length of elastic 8" to 10" long (depending on size used). Whether using clear elastic or regular 1/4" elastic, stretch it out along the length of the top raw edge on the back and machine baste the elastic directly to the dress, stretching while sewing.




Fold down the elasticized edge into a double fold and stitched closed, again stretching while sewing (this can be tricky, I admit. Pins help :)



For the back loops, sew closed the 2" long strips of bias tape. Fold loops in half and stitch to elasticized hem, each approximately 3" from the side edge. Or whatever seems like a good distance.



With all straps and loops in place, and the top edges of the front and back pieces finished, you can now stitch the front to the back, right sides together, along the entire length of both sides (stitch from the top down) using a 3/8" seam allowance. I like to stitch the seam flat at the top edge under the arm to avoid irritating sticky-outty seams.

Finish the bottom hem and you've also finished the dress.  To do up the straps, run the ends of the straps through the loops and tie together in the middle. 



I realize my instructions here are not nearly as detailed as they usually are. I am a bit time poor this week and since we are running out of warm weather, I thought it best to just toss this out and see what happens. If you have questions or need clarification, comment or email me and I will add it to the instructions.

I hope you and your girl enjoy this dress and the lovely, sunny weather!