Papers by Marco Ricchetti
Will eco-friendly fashion dress the future? Can fashion be sustainable? Sustainability is a chall... more Will eco-friendly fashion dress the future? Can fashion be sustainable? Sustainability is a challenge that cannot be ignored today. Sustainable fashion reassesses the material and manufacturing components without renouncing the aesthetic and symbolic. The Beautiful and the Good highlights--with the aid of case histories--how we are going through a profound and necessary change of paradigm in the culture of consumption.
Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 2016
Purpose– The purpose of this paper is to trace developments in the fashion business commitment to... more Purpose– The purpose of this paper is to trace developments in the fashion business commitment to sustainability over two decades and identify the drivers that progressively changed fashion brands’ perspective on sustainable supply chain management.Design/methodology/approach– The research methodology is in the lines of Donald Schon reflective practice. Reflection-on-action is based on one of the authors practice in consultancy to fashion companies and in dialog with NGOs. The professional experience has been reconsidered through the analysis of the literature on sustainability initiatives and review of case histories.Findings– The time span considered captures fashion brands sustainability awareness in itsstatu nascenti(nascent state) revealing a trial and error process that led to progressive refinements of both means and ends. Change drivers identified are: go beyond monitoring, adopt a comprehensive approach, look beyond first tier of suppliers, integrate sustainability to core ...
DESCRIPTION A project by sustainability-lab with Centro ModaCult, Università Cattolica del Sacro ... more DESCRIPTION A project by sustainability-lab with Centro ModaCult, Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore. Interivews to 12 Italian textile and accessories companies committed to sustainability.
The Sustainability-lab 2014 Fashion Brands Sustainable Procurement Survey involved 18 European an... more The Sustainability-lab 2014 Fashion Brands Sustainable Procurement Survey involved 18 European and American brands accounting for over €50 billion in sales. The Survey findings fall into four areas addressed in the main four chapters of the report: a) The 18 brands commitment to Company Sustainable Procurement (CSP) has a huge impact on suppliers, all but one brand has included specific sustainability compliance requirements in purchasing contracts, a large share of brands’ purchases of fabrics and accessories is subject to formal sustainability assessment and the adoption of preferred suppliers Green Lists based on sustainability criteria is widespread. b) As far as organizational models for sustainable procurement are concerned, the one size fits all concept does not hold true. A cluster of larger brands was found to follow a formalized management style, with the CSR department acting as watchdog for CSP. These brands established a Green List of preferred suppliers and assess a hi...
Introduction: The referral process between Primary and Secondary Health Care is of great interest... more Introduction: The referral process between Primary and Secondary Health Care is of great interest, especially because of aspects related to the quality of the care provided and economic ones. The European study of referrals revealed a referral rate in Portugal of 5,56%. In Portugal there are no studies about the quality of the referrals. The Health Local Unit of Matosinhos intends to give global care to its patients connecting Primary Care Centres with the Hospital. In terms of referral, this connection must be perfected. Objectives: To determine the referral rate, to characterize the referred population, to evaluate the characteristics of the referrals, to describe and analyse the Secondary Health Care's response. Methodology: Transversal analytic study. Gathering of the number of referrals of the Senhora da Hora Health Centre in 2003. Randomly selected sample of 400 referrals from the list of referrals made to the Hospital Pedro Hispano. Determination of the sample's descriptive statistics and the use of the χ 2 test for frequency comparison (α = 0,05). Results: The referral rate was 10,1%. The average age of the referred population was 45,3 years, with 61,8% being female. The more referred specialities were the name of the patient (98,9%), the referral objective (92,8%) and date (94,8%). However the majority did not mention the usual medication (71,3%), the description of the physical exam (51,5%) or the physician's identification (52,3%). In 50,8% of the cases the medical appointment was made one to six months after the referral. There was return information in 26,3% of the referrals. Conclusions: This study revealed failures in the articulation of health care. The physician should take into account that the referral/return letter is a primordial vehicle of communication and it has to be perfected, to improve the quality of the care provided. Network information systems and protocol rules may contribute to improve the articulation of the care provided.
This paper presents the eBusiness Reference Architecture resulting from the European initiative e... more This paper presents the eBusiness Reference Architecture resulting from the European initiative eBIZ-TCF and the following pre-standardisation initiative, CEN WS eBIZ – eBusiness in the Textile, Clothing and Footwear sectors, both funded by the European Commission DG Enterprise. The reference architecture implements a standard based interoperability approach to the problem of enterprise interoperability. The paper presents both the aspects related to the technical contents and objectives of the architecture as well as the assessment phase of its validity and suitability for the industry (implementation in real business, benefits, etc.). Upgrade and fostering of the Reference Architecture currently run under the format of Workshop of CEN – the European Committee for Standardisation
Global Fashion Management Conference, 2015
Purpose. The paper traces developments in the fashion business commitment to sustainability over ... more Purpose. The paper traces developments in the fashion business commitment to sustainability over two decades and identifies the drivers that progressively changed fashion brands’ perspective on Sustainable Supply Chain Management. Methodology .The research methodology is in the lines of Donald Schon reflective practice. Reflection-on-action is based on one of the authors practice in consultancy to fashion companies and in dialog with NGOs. The professional experience has been reconsidered through the analysis of the literature on sustainability initiatives and review of case histories.
Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to trace developments in the fashion business commitment t... more Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to trace developments in the fashion business commitment to
sustainability over two decades and identify the drivers that progressively changed fashion brands’
perspective on sustainable supply chain management.
Design/methodology/approach – The research methodology is in the lines of Donald Schon
reflective practice. Reflection-on-action is based on one of the authors practice in consultancy to fashion
companies and in dialog with NGOs. The professional experience has been reconsidered through the
analysis of the literature on sustainability initiatives and review of case histories.
Findings – The time span considered captures fashion brands sustainability awareness in its statu
nascenti (nascent state) revealing a trial and error process that led to progressive refinements of both
means and ends. Change drivers identified are: go beyond monitoring, adopt a comprehensive
approach, look beyond first tier of suppliers, integrate sustainability to core business practices and
bring transparency to the supply chain.
Originality/value – Existing literature surveys show that authors used to focus on specific issues
and concentrate on individual case studies, under-representing the complex set of factors that
companies, institutions and NGOs address, including the effect of past decisions, successes and
mistakes. The paper is a first step to fill the gap and provides an up-to-date overview of current
developments aimed at both scholars and practitioners, especially CSR and marketing managers and
NGOs campaigners.
Keywords Fashion industry, Corporate social responsibility, Stakeholders, Supply chain management,
Brands, Textile/clothing supply chains
Paper type General review
This paper presents the eBusiness Reference Architecture resulting from the European initiative e... more This paper presents the eBusiness Reference Architecture resulting from the European initiative eBIZ-TCF and the following pre-standardisation initiative, CEN WS eBIZ – eBusiness in the Textile, Clothing and Footwear sectors, both funded by the European Commission DG Enterprise. The reference architecture implements a standard based interoperability approach to the problem of enterprise interoperability. The paper presents both the aspects related to the technical contents and objectives of the architecture as well as the assessment phase of its validity and suitability for the industry (implementation in real business, benefits, etc.). Upgrade and fostering of the Reference Architecture currently run under the format of Workshop of CEN – the European Committee for Standardisation
A study on Italian companies regarding their practices on sustainibility.
The Survey involved 18 European and American brands accounting for over €50 billion in sales. The... more The Survey involved 18 European and American brands accounting for over €50 billion in sales. The 18 brands commitment to Company Sustainable Procurement has a huge impact on suppliers, a large share of brands’ purchases of fabrics and accessories is subject to formal sustainability assessment and the adoption of preferred suppliers Green Lists based on sustainability criteria is widespread.
The one size fits all concept does not hold true for organizational models. A cluster of larger brands was found to follow a formalized management style, with the CSR department acting as watchdog for CSP. These brands established a Green List of preferred suppliers and assess a high share of fabrics and accessories purchases. Other brands historically engaged in sustainability, especially in the luxury segment have adopted a more informal approach, without a clear role for the CSR function. Finally, a third cluster of brands is still in a phase of organizational evolution with a mix of roles for the CSR department and expectations for future adoption of formalized sustainability evaluation tools.
Elimination of hazardous chemicals, traceability and ban of cruel practices towards animals are the most considered sustainability dimensions in brands’ CSP. The Survey findings witness a higher level of maturity, beyond what we can define Phase One of sustainability management that was almost exclusively focused on CO2 emissions cuts. The ranking of sustainability attributes reveals also a close connection with some of the influential high-profile campaigns launched in recent years by environmental, workers' rights advocacy and animal welfare NGOs. Citizens through NGOs more than consumers through their wallets appear to be the driving force pulling fashion brands into the sustainability journey.
CSR managers value certification labels, especially when they compare best suppliers. Just a few of them consider certifications mandatory though. Brands with established CSP place less value on certifications. Most valued labels are Oeko-Tex100 / 100plus, GOTS, SA8000 and Bluesign.
Conference Presentations by Marco Ricchetti
Global Fashion Management Conference, 2015
Purpose. The paper traces developments in the fashion business commitment to sustainability over ... more Purpose. The paper traces developments in the fashion business commitment to sustainability over two decades and identifies the drivers that progressively changed fashion brands’ perspective on Sustainable Supply Chain Management.
Methodology .The research methodology is in the lines of Donald Schon reflective practice. Reflection-on-action is based on one of the authors practice in consultancy to fashion companies and in dialog with NGOs. The professional experience has been reconsidered through the analysis of the literature on sustainability initiatives and review of case histories.
Books by Marco Ricchetti
Material Man. Masculinity, Sexulality, Style, 2000
Opening essay of the Catalogue What does it mean to be a man in the new millennium? Essays by 19 ... more Opening essay of the Catalogue What does it mean to be a man in the new millennium? Essays by 19 scholars from various fields, including anthropology, psychology, economics, media, and political science, attempt to answer this question. All seem to agree that masculinity is in crisis owing to a variety of 20th-century events. Editor Malossi, director of the Fashion Engineering Unit, a think tank based in Florence that is devoted to creating a culture of fashion, has developed a title with strong Italian roots and a focus on the male human form. One essayist defines virility as cunning tempered by self-awareness, a combination he claims has gotten men in trouble since Odysseus' time. The movie still that closes the book--of Sean Connery as the suave James Bond leaning against a sports car with a devil-may-care attitude--certainly reinforces this definition of virility and masculinity. One of the most positive essayists claims that the new man who will lead us into a new era will use the age-old capacity of giving to others and to the world. The quality of the essays varies from thought-provoking to unsubstantiated, but numerous photographs support the text well throughout. Overall, an interesting look at how culture shapes male identity and visa versa.
-Nadine Dalton Speidel, Cuyahoga Cty. P.L., Parma, OH
Copyright 2000 Reed Business Information, Inc.
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Papers by Marco Ricchetti
sustainability over two decades and identify the drivers that progressively changed fashion brands’
perspective on sustainable supply chain management.
Design/methodology/approach – The research methodology is in the lines of Donald Schon
reflective practice. Reflection-on-action is based on one of the authors practice in consultancy to fashion
companies and in dialog with NGOs. The professional experience has been reconsidered through the
analysis of the literature on sustainability initiatives and review of case histories.
Findings – The time span considered captures fashion brands sustainability awareness in its statu
nascenti (nascent state) revealing a trial and error process that led to progressive refinements of both
means and ends. Change drivers identified are: go beyond monitoring, adopt a comprehensive
approach, look beyond first tier of suppliers, integrate sustainability to core business practices and
bring transparency to the supply chain.
Originality/value – Existing literature surveys show that authors used to focus on specific issues
and concentrate on individual case studies, under-representing the complex set of factors that
companies, institutions and NGOs address, including the effect of past decisions, successes and
mistakes. The paper is a first step to fill the gap and provides an up-to-date overview of current
developments aimed at both scholars and practitioners, especially CSR and marketing managers and
NGOs campaigners.
Keywords Fashion industry, Corporate social responsibility, Stakeholders, Supply chain management,
Brands, Textile/clothing supply chains
Paper type General review
The one size fits all concept does not hold true for organizational models. A cluster of larger brands was found to follow a formalized management style, with the CSR department acting as watchdog for CSP. These brands established a Green List of preferred suppliers and assess a high share of fabrics and accessories purchases. Other brands historically engaged in sustainability, especially in the luxury segment have adopted a more informal approach, without a clear role for the CSR function. Finally, a third cluster of brands is still in a phase of organizational evolution with a mix of roles for the CSR department and expectations for future adoption of formalized sustainability evaluation tools.
Elimination of hazardous chemicals, traceability and ban of cruel practices towards animals are the most considered sustainability dimensions in brands’ CSP. The Survey findings witness a higher level of maturity, beyond what we can define Phase One of sustainability management that was almost exclusively focused on CO2 emissions cuts. The ranking of sustainability attributes reveals also a close connection with some of the influential high-profile campaigns launched in recent years by environmental, workers' rights advocacy and animal welfare NGOs. Citizens through NGOs more than consumers through their wallets appear to be the driving force pulling fashion brands into the sustainability journey.
CSR managers value certification labels, especially when they compare best suppliers. Just a few of them consider certifications mandatory though. Brands with established CSP place less value on certifications. Most valued labels are Oeko-Tex100 / 100plus, GOTS, SA8000 and Bluesign.
Conference Presentations by Marco Ricchetti
Methodology .The research methodology is in the lines of Donald Schon reflective practice. Reflection-on-action is based on one of the authors practice in consultancy to fashion companies and in dialog with NGOs. The professional experience has been reconsidered through the analysis of the literature on sustainability initiatives and review of case histories.
Books by Marco Ricchetti
-Nadine Dalton Speidel, Cuyahoga Cty. P.L., Parma, OH
Copyright 2000 Reed Business Information, Inc.
sustainability over two decades and identify the drivers that progressively changed fashion brands’
perspective on sustainable supply chain management.
Design/methodology/approach – The research methodology is in the lines of Donald Schon
reflective practice. Reflection-on-action is based on one of the authors practice in consultancy to fashion
companies and in dialog with NGOs. The professional experience has been reconsidered through the
analysis of the literature on sustainability initiatives and review of case histories.
Findings – The time span considered captures fashion brands sustainability awareness in its statu
nascenti (nascent state) revealing a trial and error process that led to progressive refinements of both
means and ends. Change drivers identified are: go beyond monitoring, adopt a comprehensive
approach, look beyond first tier of suppliers, integrate sustainability to core business practices and
bring transparency to the supply chain.
Originality/value – Existing literature surveys show that authors used to focus on specific issues
and concentrate on individual case studies, under-representing the complex set of factors that
companies, institutions and NGOs address, including the effect of past decisions, successes and
mistakes. The paper is a first step to fill the gap and provides an up-to-date overview of current
developments aimed at both scholars and practitioners, especially CSR and marketing managers and
NGOs campaigners.
Keywords Fashion industry, Corporate social responsibility, Stakeholders, Supply chain management,
Brands, Textile/clothing supply chains
Paper type General review
The one size fits all concept does not hold true for organizational models. A cluster of larger brands was found to follow a formalized management style, with the CSR department acting as watchdog for CSP. These brands established a Green List of preferred suppliers and assess a high share of fabrics and accessories purchases. Other brands historically engaged in sustainability, especially in the luxury segment have adopted a more informal approach, without a clear role for the CSR function. Finally, a third cluster of brands is still in a phase of organizational evolution with a mix of roles for the CSR department and expectations for future adoption of formalized sustainability evaluation tools.
Elimination of hazardous chemicals, traceability and ban of cruel practices towards animals are the most considered sustainability dimensions in brands’ CSP. The Survey findings witness a higher level of maturity, beyond what we can define Phase One of sustainability management that was almost exclusively focused on CO2 emissions cuts. The ranking of sustainability attributes reveals also a close connection with some of the influential high-profile campaigns launched in recent years by environmental, workers' rights advocacy and animal welfare NGOs. Citizens through NGOs more than consumers through their wallets appear to be the driving force pulling fashion brands into the sustainability journey.
CSR managers value certification labels, especially when they compare best suppliers. Just a few of them consider certifications mandatory though. Brands with established CSP place less value on certifications. Most valued labels are Oeko-Tex100 / 100plus, GOTS, SA8000 and Bluesign.
Methodology .The research methodology is in the lines of Donald Schon reflective practice. Reflection-on-action is based on one of the authors practice in consultancy to fashion companies and in dialog with NGOs. The professional experience has been reconsidered through the analysis of the literature on sustainability initiatives and review of case histories.
-Nadine Dalton Speidel, Cuyahoga Cty. P.L., Parma, OH
Copyright 2000 Reed Business Information, Inc.