A Manual of Needlework Knitting and Cutt

A propos de ce livre
Ceci est une copie numérique d’un ouvrage conservé depuis des générations dans les rayonnages d’une bibliothèque avant d’être numérisé avec
précaution par Google dans le cadre d’un projet visant à permettre aux internautes de découvrir l’ensemble du patrimoine littéraire mondial en
ligne.
Ce livre étant relativement ancien, il n’est plus protégé par la loi sur les droits d’auteur et appartient à présent au domaine public. L’expression
“appartenir au domaine public” signifie que le livre en question n’a jamais été soumis aux droits d’auteur ou que ses droits légaux sont arrivés à
expiration. Les conditions requises pour qu’un livre tombe dans le domaine public peuvent varier d’un pays à l’autre. Les livres libres de droit sont
autant de liens avec le passé. Ils sont les témoins de la richesse de notre histoire, de notre patrimoine culturel et de la connaissance humaine et sont
trop souvent difficilement accessibles au public.
Les notes de bas de page et autres annotations en marge du texte présentes dans le volume original sont reprises dans ce fichier, comme un souvenir
du long chemin parcouru par l’ouvrage depuis la maison d’édition en passant par la bibliothèque pour finalement se retrouver entre vos mains.
Consignes d’utilisation
Google est fier de travailler en partenariat avec des bibliothèques à la numérisation des ouvrages appartenant au domaine public et de les rendre
ainsi accessibles à tous. Ces livres sont en effet la propriété de tous et de toutes et nous sommes tout simplement les gardiens de ce patrimoine.
Il s’agit toutefois d’un projet coûteux. Par conséquent et en vue de poursuivre la diffusion de ces ressources inépuisables, nous avons pris les
dispositions nécessaires afin de prévenir les éventuels abus auxquels pourraient se livrer des sites marchands tiers, notamment en instaurant des
contraintes techniques relatives aux requêtes automatisées.
Nous vous demandons également de:
+ Ne pas utiliser les fichiers à des fins commerciales Nous avons conçu le programme Google Recherche de Livres à l’usage des particuliers.
Nous vous demandons donc d’utiliser uniquement ces fichiers à des fins personnelles. Ils ne sauraient en effet être employés dans un
quelconque but commercial.
+ Ne pas procéder à des requêtes automatisées N’envoyez aucune requête automatisée quelle qu’elle soit au système Google. Si vous effectuez
des recherches concernant les logiciels de traduction, la reconnaissance optique de caractères ou tout autre domaine nécessitant de disposer
d’importantes quantités de texte, n’hésitez pas à nous contacter. Nous encourageons pour la réalisation de ce type de travaux l’utilisation des
ouvrages et documents appartenant au domaine public et serions heureux de vous être utile.
+ Ne pas supprimer l’attribution Le filigrane Google contenu dans chaque fichier est indispensable pour informer les internautes de notre projet
et leur permettre d’accéder à davantage de documents par l’intermédiaire du Programme Google Recherche de Livres. Ne le supprimez en
aucun cas.
+ Rester dans la légalité Quelle que soit l’utilisation que vous comptez faire des fichiers, n’oubliez pas qu’il est de votre responsabilité de
veiller à respecter la loi. Si un ouvrage appartient au domaine public américain, n’en déduisez pas pour autant qu’il en va de même dans
les autres pays. La durée légale des droits d’auteur d’un livre varie d’un pays à l’autre. Nous ne sommes donc pas en mesure de répertorier
les ouvrages dont l’utilisation est autorisée et ceux dont elle ne l’est pas. Ne croyez pas que le simple fait d’afficher un livre sur Google
Recherche de Livres signifie que celui-ci peut être utilisé de quelque façon que ce soit dans le monde entier. La condamnation à laquelle vous
vous exposeriez en cas de violation des droits d’auteur peut être sévère.
À propos du service Google Recherche de Livres
En favorisant la recherche et l’accès à un nombre croissant de livres disponibles dans de nombreuses langues, dont le frano̧ais, Google souhaite
contribuer à promouvoir la diversité culturelle grâce à Google Recherche de Livres. En effet, le Programme Google Recherche de Livres permet
aux internautes de découvrir le patrimoine littéraire mondial, tout en aidant les auteurs et les éditeurs à élargir leur public. Vous pouvez effectuer
des recherches en ligne dans le texte intégral de cet ouvrage à l’adresse http://books.google.com
This is a reproduction of a library book that was digitized
by Google as part of an ongoing effort to preserve the
information in books and make it universally accessible.
https://books.google.com
NYPL RESEARCH LIBRARIES
3 3433 00677511 2
Recap
VSO
Roseu
1
重
A MANUAL
OF
NEEDLEWORK , KNITTING, AND

CUTTING OUT
1
A MANUAL
OF
NEEDLEWORK , KNITTING
AND
CUTTING OUT
FOR EVENING CONTINUATION SCHOOLS
BY
ELIZABETH ROSEVEAR
SENIOR TEACHER , AND LECTURER ON NEEDLEWORK, AT THE TRAINING COLLEGE , STOCKWELL,
LONDON, S.W.
AUTHOR OF ' A TEXT-BOOK OF NEEDLEWORK , KNITTING, AND CUTTING OUT, WITH METHODS OF
TEACHING ' ; AND ' NEEDLEWORK, KNITTING, AND CUTTING OUT FOR OLDER GIRLS '
WITH ORIGINAL ILLUSTRATIONS AND SECTIONAL DIAGRAMS
London
MACMILLAN AND CO.
AND NEW YORK
1894
All rights reserved

THE NEW YORK
PUBLIC LIBRARY
1010DNG CONTINUATION SCHOOL CODE
ASTOR , LENOX AND
TILDEN FOUNDATIONS .
1898 SEWING COURSE
To cut out garments requiring only straight or slanting lines, i.e. a

working woman's apron , a flannel petticoat, an infant's shirt .
To pleat material into bands suitable for use in aprons, woollen
petticoats, etc.
To sew on buttons, make buttonholes, and set on tapes.
To make up a complete garment ( cut out by the scholar) showing
the practical application of the above- named exercises.
To cut out in different sizes garments requiring curved lines, i.e.
chemises, drawers, pinafores, boys' shirts ( flannel or Oxford shirting) .
To gather material and set it into bands, i.e. neck or collar bands,
wristbands, etc.
To run and feather -stitch tucks.
To join material on the straight, on the cross , and on the curve by
various kinds of seams.
To set in gussets and make false hems.
To make up a garment (cut out by the scholar) showing the
practical application of the above- named exercises .
To cut out in several sizes ( from measurements) a plain dress bodice
and a nightdress.
To set on hooks and eyes , to case bones, to overcast seams, and to
bind skirt edges.
To make up a dress skirt, lined or unlined. To make up a simple
dress (skirt and bodice) or a nightdress, cut out by the scholar.
KNITTING AND MENDING COURSE

To knit a man's sock .
To darn thin places on flannel and holes in socks and stockings.
To patch in flannel.
To knit a stocking.
To patch in calico .
To darn and repair house linen, i.e. sheets, tablecloths, etc.
To patch and darn dress materials ( print and woollen ).
TO THE
HON . MRS . EDMUND COLBORNE
H.M. DIRECTRESS OF NEEDLEWORK
BY KIND PERMISSION
THIS BOOK
IS AFFECTIONATELY AND RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED
IN RECOGNITION OF HER WORTH AS
AN INSPECTRESS
AND OF HER UNFAILING COURTESY AND SYMPATHY
BY THE AUTHOR
Dine
1
PREFACE
This Manual of Needlework, Knitting, and Cutting Out

is designed to meet the requirements of the Code for Even
ing Continuation Schools, and is especially intended for the
use of the Scholars attending the Needlework Classes in
these Schools. The Manual is also suitable for the use
of Women and Girls who are desirous of self-improvement
in an important branch of Housewifery. Dressmaking is
not included, though it is one of the requirements of the
Evening Schools' Code, because this art is best learnt
from some good and simple scientific system.
ELIZABETH ROSEVEAR.
1
STOCKWELL TRAINING COLLEGE,

LONDON, S. W. , 1894 .
CONTENTS
PAGE
EVENING Schools' CODE iv

PREFACE vi
PART 1. -SEWING COURSE

CHAP .
1. Cutting out : Apron, Petticoats, Infant's Shirt 1
2. Construction : Making up a Woman's Apron and Petti

coat and an Infant's Shirt 8
8
Stitches : Pleats, Tapes, Buttons, and Buttonholes
3. Cutting out Chemises, Drawers, Pinafores, Overalls, Shirts, 26
and Scales for the same 32
4. Construction : Making up a Woman's Chemise, Children's

and Women's Drawers, Pinafore, Overall, Boy's Shirt . 52
Stitches : Gathers and Setting in, Tucks, Running, various

kinds of Seams, Gussets, False Hems 53
5. Cutting out Woman's Nightgown, a Saddle Yoke . 85
Construction : Making up a Woman's Nightgown, with

Tucked Front and Yoked Back . 89
Scale of Proportions for Nightgowns 95

viii NEEDLEWORK
СНАР . PAGE
6. Eyelet-Holes, casing Bones, Hooks and Eyes, binding

Skirt Edges, overcasting Seams, Feather-stitch . 96
7. Sewing on Tapes : Pillow -slips, Towels, Dusters, Pinafores,

Barrow - coats 100
PART II . —KNITTING AND MENDING COURSE
1. Scales for a Man's Pair of Socks and a Girl's Pair of Stock
ings ; a Knitted Edging, taking up a Ladder 102
2. Darning : Thin Place on Fiannel, etc. , Darning in a Patch ,

Twill and Wave Darns 105
3. Cross -cut and Hedge -tear Darns 108
4. Darning Thin Places and Holes in Socks and Stockings 114
5. Patching : Flannel, Serge, Cloth, Herringbone Stitch, and

Corners 119
6. Patching : Calico Chemise, Shirt, Drawers 125
7. Patching : Print Garments . 130
8. Repairing Sheets, Tablecloths, etc. , and renewing Parts

of Garments. Outfit for Girl 132
ILLUSTRATIONS
TIG . PAGE
1. Apron - Made up 2
2. Woman's Petticoat - Diagram 4
3. Child's Petticoat -- Made up 5
4. Infant's Shirt - by Folding 6
5. Infant's Shirt - Sectional Diagram 7

6. Pleats -- Skirt of Apron 9
7. Fixed Tape String 11
8. Tape on Wrong Side of Band 12
9. Tape on Right Side of Band 12
10. Flannel Seam in Petticoat 14

11 . 14
12. Placket Hole of Petticoat . 15

13. An Unpierced Linen atton 17
14. Button on a Band 17
15. A Pierced Button . 18

16. Buttonhole Stitch 19
17. Round Corners -- Knotted and Braced 20
18. Infant's First Shirt - Made up 24
19. Strengthening Tape 25

20. Pillow - Case Chemise 27
21. Sleeve of Chemise, with a Gusset . 28
22. without a Gusset 30

X NEEDLEWORK
FIG .
PAGE
23. Yoke Neckband of Chemise 30
24. Girl's Chemise 31
25. Child's Chemise 32
26. Child's First- Size Drawers 33
27. Child's Knickerbocker Drawers 35
28. Woman's or Girl's Drawers 36
29. Simple Pinafore 38
30. Yoked Pinafore 40
31. Overall with Sleeves 42, 43
32. Yoke Shirt 50 , 51
33. Sew -and - Fell Seam 52
34. Gathers 53
35. Gathers drawn up and stroked 54
36. Setting in Gathers 55

37. Tucks - Folded 57
38 . >> Completed 58
39. Flannel Drawers-Made up 61
40. Pinafore, Print or Muslin, with Yokes 63
41. Mantua -maker's Hem 64
42. Bodice Seam 65
43. Run - and - Fell Seam 67
44 . ‫وو‬Completed 68
45. Material joined on the Cross 70
46. Shirt made up, with Neck Gusset and Patched 81
47. Gusset and Lining 83
48. Gusset set in Shirt Sleeve . 84
49. Woman's Nightgown - Sectional Diagram 86, 87
50. Saddle Yoke - Diagram 88
51. Child's Yoked Nightgown 88
52. Woman's Nightgown - Made up 94

53. Feather-stitch Patterns and Sectional Diagram 99
54. Tapes on Pillow-slip 100

ILLUSTRATIONS xi
FIG . PAGE
55. Tapes on Dusters and Towels 100
56. Darning - Oblong Pattern 105

57 . 3
Diamond Pattern 106
58. Cross -cut Darn - Rhomboids 109
59 . Completed 111
60. Hedge Tear - Oblongs 113
61 . Completed 113
115
62. Darn on Stocking Web - Thin Place
63 . 79 99 Wrong Side of Hole 117
64 . Right Side of Hole 118
65. Herringbone- Outer Corner 120

66 . Inner Corner 120
121
67. Flannel Petticoat — Made up and Patched
68. Flannel Patch - Wrong Side 122
69. ‫وو‬ Right Side 123
70. Drawers — Patched (a ) ( 6) (c) 124
71. Chemise with Yoke Neckband - Made up and Patched 126
72. Pair of Calico Drawers — Made up and Patched 129
73. Print Patch - Right Side 130
74 . Wrong Side 131
75. Overcasting Print , etc. 131
76. Print Patch - Wrong Side - Another Method 131
77. Circular Band for Woman's Petticoat or Drawers 133

PART I
SEWING COURSE
CHAPTER I
CUTTING OUT. - Apron, Petticoats, Infant's Shirt
CUTTING OUT
A WORKING WOMAN'S APRON (Fig. 1 )

Materials needed.-- 11 yards of apron cloth, or
Hessian, or coarse brown holland, scissors, and inch
measure ; tape for strings and shoulder-straps.
THE LESSON
Measuring , Folding, and Cutting out. (a ) The Skirt.

-Measure down the selvedges 1 yard , and crease the
material across its width, and cut it true to a thread. (6)
Waistband . — Measure in on one selvedge side of the skirt
3 inches, fold this strip down the length, and cut it off
quite even and straight. (c) Bib . — Take the 4 yard of
material and measure across its width 24 inches, crease
it and cut it off, then fold it in halves and cut it.
Each piece will be 9 inches long and 12 inches wide.
Take one piece and fold it down its length into halves and
quarters, and crease the ſolids weh . Cpen it so that it is
B
2 NEEDLEWORK PART I
twofold, and 9 inches long and 6 inches wide, and one

Place the folded edge to your left hand
crease is visible.
and fold from the top and side open edges down to the
crease, which is one -fourth of the width of the stuff. Place
your hand on this slanting fold and cut along the crease
MIL
E
Fig . 1 .
carefully and evenly. The bib must be 12 inches wide

at the top and 6 inches at the bottom or waist-line. ( d )
Pocket. — Take another piece of material that is 9 inches
long and 12.inches wide, and fold it into halves, quarters,
and eighths downl - its length. Open it so that it is twofold
CHAP. I A WOMAN'S FLANNEL OR SERGE PETTICOAT 3
and with two creases visible. Fold from the top and side
open edges in a slanting line down to the first crease at
the bottom . Place your hand on this fold and cut off
the material quite straight and even . The pocket must
be 12 inches wide at the top and 9 inches at the bottom.
Notes . — 1 . If material 1 yard wide will not make the skirt full
enough , a breadth and a half must be put into it, and it
will be more economical to cut two aprons at the same time .
3 } yards of material will be needed for two aprons. 2. If the
waistband is shaped like Fig. 1 , more material will be required .
A straight band more economical, and easier to cut out and
make up : 3. The strip cut off for the waistband is a yard
long, so that for a waist of 27 to 30 inches two tape strings }
yard long must be sewn at the ends of the band , to tie com
fortably round the waist.
A WOMAN'S FLANNEL OR SERGE PETTICOAT

Materials needed . – From 24 to 21 or 3 yards of
flannel or serge from 24 to 30 inches wide, a strip of
calico or drill or Turkish twill for a straight waistband,
buttons, scissors, and inch measure.
THE LESSON
1. Measuring, Folding, and Cutting out.—(a) Divide

the 3 yards of material into three equal lengths; (6)
find the right side of the flannel and let the nap or
woolly surface fall downwards, and mark by a pin with
its point downwards in each breadth ; (c) set aside two
breadths ; (d ) take the other breadth and fold it in
halves down its length, being careful to see that the nap
is falling downwards, then fold it again into halves and
then into quarters ; (e) open the material and place the
folded edge to your left hand, and then fold from the
bottom left-hand corner D at the open side edges to the
first crease at the top E in a slanting line ; ( f ) place
your left hand on this folded material, and cut through
4 NEEDLEWORK PART I
the double material quite even and straight ( Fig. 2 ). This

is the front breadth, and it must be sloped as shown in
the diagram at F to G (Fig. 2 ), if a circular band is used,
but must be kept straight
8" G_37" 36"-B if a straight waistband is
p e
o rr Sl lafo and
Circu preferred.
Il
b The other two
F
breadths are not sloped at
all .
Front breadth 2. Waistband. -
If the
waistband is a straight one,
36 " X 15"
cut a length of material the
size of the waist, plus 2 inches
1 for lapping, and from 3 to 4.1
Folded
" dge
inches wide .
36
e
Two straight breadths

N.B. - The length of the band
36"x 30" is the selvedge way of the
for the rest of the Petticoat stuff. A strip of material
left off the width of some
calico garment previously
Straight Waistband cut out will be quite suit
28 " x 35 able . Circular bands are
much more difficult to cut
Hem 3 inches deep out and make up, and re
quire more material ( Fig. 77 ) .
Notes. — 1. The right side of
Tucks Two 14 inches deep flannel has more of the
fluffy, downy surface than
the wrong side. This fluffy ,
15 " .
downy, hairy surface is called
Fig . 2 .
nap . The right way of the
nap is always downwards,
and when it falls in this direction the flannel is flat and
smooth to the touch , and wears and keeps clean longer than
when it is placed the wrong way. 2. A woman's fiannel
petticoat can be made with straight breadths in the front and
the back , and with side gores. The gores are cut from another
breadth of the stuff as follows : Fold the breadth into halves
down the length, and place the folded edge to your left hand ;
measure off at the top from the open side edges of the width
ch. I DIMENSIONS OF GIRL'S AND CHILD'S PETTICOAT 5
of the stuff when it is folded in halves, and then fold this in

a slanting line to a point at the left -hand bottom corner, and
cut it off ; then cut up the fold at your left hand, and you will
have two gores . The garment so cut out is narrower, and is
not so suitable for working girls and women , who require full
garments to allow of kneeling and active movements. A gored
petticoat needs as much material as the one given in the lesson,
and diagram ( Fig. 2). 3. The placket hole of petticoats is
always made in the back breadth , and is usually } of the
length of the garment. In the petticoat (Fig. 2) the placket
is left open at the top and centre of the back seam . In a
petticoat with side gores, the placket must be cut in the
middle of the back breadth .
DIMENSIONS OF A GIRL'S AND A Child's PETTICOAT

Girl's Petticoat. — Age 14 to 16 years.
1. Three breadths of flannel or serge 27 inches long and
from 22 to 27 inches wide.
2. Waistband 26 inches long and 6 inches wide.
3. Placket hole of the length of the garment if the
waistband is straight,
but less if a circular
band or petticoat
bodice is used .
4. Slope of front
breadth at the sides }
of the width of the
stuff, when it is folded
into halves .
Child's Petticoat.
Age 5 to 7 years (Fig. 3).
1. Two breadths of
flannel or serge 15
FIG . 3 .
inches long and from 22
to 26 inches wide.
2. Waistband 24 inches long and 5 inches wide before
being doubled .
3. Placket hole about half the length of the back breadth,
6 NEEDLEWORK PART I
with a straight waistband, and less if a petticoat bodice

is used.
CUTTING OUT AN INFANT'S FIRST SHIRT (Figs. 4 and 5)

Materials needed . — Lawn, or cambric, or fine linen, or
nainsook muslin, or fine longcloth, 10 inches long and
from 22 to 25 inches wide ; scissors , inch measure, and
narrow tape .
Proportion .-- The width of first shirts is twice and a
half the length, as a rule.
THE LESSON
1. Measuring , Folding, and Cutting out.- (a ) Take a

A E piece of material 10 inches
Armhole
B
long and 22 inches wide (or
---
wider ) ; (b) fold the material

into halves, then into quar
ters, and lastly into eighths ,
and well press the folded
Fourfold
edges ; (c) open the material

so that it is fourfold and the
eighth crease is in the centre,
i.e. from E to F in Fig. 4 ;
( 1) fold the material into
thirds across its width and
!&olded
One - third
FOpen
G. H then fold the top third into

Folded
thirds ; (e) lay the fourfold

doubled edges to your left
hand with the selvedges
going up and down ; ( f )
fold the material in a slant
572 D ing line from the eighth
FIG . 4 . crease in the centre down
to the two -thirds crease, and
well press this fold ( E to G , Fig. 4 ) ; (9) cut from E along
CHAP. I CUTTING OUT AN INFAXT'S FIRST SHIRT 7
this slanting line to I quite through the fourfold stuff.

This slanting line shapes the shoulders and the flaps. (h)
Cut down from the top at A to J quite through the four
fold material for the arm holes .
2. The Gussets. —Take a 2 -inch square of the material
and fold it diagonally from corner to corner, and cut it
across the slanting line so as to get two triangular pieces
of stuff. These form the sleeves.
3. Strengthening Tapes. — Cut off four pieces of
A 27 " H 5!" G 5 %" F 5 % " E 2/4 " B
edge
A B
2 2 2 2
272
Selv
0
Square
4
bo D
!
o
10 X 22
C
D
FIG . 5.
narrow tape, 14 inches long, to strengthen the corners of

the flaps.
Notes . — 1. Fig. 5 is the pattern most commonly used for new - born
babies. 2. Infants' shirts are always cut out in sets of three,
or six , or twelve. Three shirts the same size as that in Fig. 5
can be cut from 1 yard of lawn or cambric, or soft nainsook ,
or fine longcloth, with plenty of material left for gussets. 3 .
Nainsook and longcloth are generally 36 inches wide, so the
extra material off the width after the shirts are cut out will
be sufficient for babies' closed shirts in small sizes . Lawn and
cambric are usually the width required for these shirts.
8 NEEDLEWORK PART I
CHAPTER II
CONSTRUCTION . — Making up a Woman's Apron aml Petticoat

and an Infant's Shirt
STITCHES.— Pleats, Tapes, Buttons, and Buttonholes
MAKING UP A WORKING WOMAN'S APRON
Materials needed.The apron, pins, needle, tacking

and sewing cotton .
THE LESSON
1. Skirt.-(a) Fix a narrow hem down the raw selvedge,

tack it, and then hem it strongly and neatly ; (6) fix a
broad hem across the width, tack it, and then hem it neatly
and securely ; (c) turn down narrow hems on the two sel
vedges of the pocket, and tack and hem them, then fix hems
across the width sides, and tack and hem them, and seam
the ends of the width hems; ( d) fix the pocket to the skirt
of the apron as follows : Find the centre of the skirt by
folding it in halves down the length, then place the wrong
side of the pocket to the right side of the apron, a little to
the right-hand side of the centre crease, and t of the
length of the skirt from the top raw edge, with the sel
vedges going up and down with the selvedges of the
garment ; fell the pocket neatly and securely to the
apron on three sides (Fig . 1 ).
2. Pleats.- (a ) Divide the skirt of the apron into
halves and quarters, and mark these divisions by creases,
or pins, or a few cross stitches of tacking cotton ; ( )
measure off at the top of the garment 1 inch to the right
and left of the centre crease, marked DE in the diagram
(Fig. 6). This part must be kept plain, and may be wider
CHAP . II MAKING UP A WORKING WOMAN'S APRON 9
than 2 inches if needed. (c) Measure off from E to B 2

inches, and put in a pin ; (d) crease the material between
E and the pin into halves, so that the pleat is 1 inch wide
on its upper and under sides ; (e) turn the wrong side of
the garment towards you, and press the folded edge of the
A MINNIRIN
L'ANN
B
D E
1
FIG . 6.
under part of the pleat back to the left, so that the upper
part of the pleat may fall towards B at the right hand.
N.B. - If you prefer the pleats to fall towards the centre of the
apron , you must at first measure off 3 inches to the right and
left of C, and press the upper part of the pleat to the left and
the under part to the right hand. When pleats fall towards
the centre of the garment the fulness is in the front, and
when they fall towards the sides of the garment the fulness is
greater at the sides and the back .
(f ) Put in pins to keep the pleats in place and quite even ;

(9) measure 2 inches from the edge of this pleat towards
B, and put in a pin, then crease these 2 inches into halves
on the right side of the garment, and press back the under
part so that the pleat may fall to the right hand, and put
in pins to keep the top edges quite even as before. Notice
that the edge of the pleat on the wrong side touches the
front edge of the firstpleat, because no spaces are left be
tween these pleats. If spaces are left between pleats, they
should be kept quite regular. As a rule, spaces are left
between pleats when the garment is not twice or three
10 NEEDLEWORK PART I
times longer than that part of the band into which it

is to be set . When you have narrowed the garment to
the right of the centre crease as much as you ought, you
must pleat from D towards A in the same way . Tack the
pleats firmly and securely about 1 of an inch from the
top edge, and take out the pins (Fig. 6 ).
3. Making the Band.— (a) Take the strip of material
that is 1 yard long and 3 inches wide, and turn down a
fold on the raw selvedge of an inch deep, and fix folds
of the same depth at the ends, then fold the band in
halves down the length, and well press the folded edge,
and tack the two short sides at the ends, and į of the
length of the band from either end along the selvedges ;
(6) seam the edges of the two ends, and of the length of
the band at either end ; (c) divide the band into halves
and quarters between the seamed portions, in order to
match the halves and quarters in the apron, and to set the
pleats in regularly.
4. Setting in the Pleats.-(a) Place the garment
between the edges of the band, with the centre creases
matching ( Fig . 1 ), and the band resting on the line of
tacking stitches, about 1 of an inch from the top edge ;
(6) fasten the band to the garment by a pin ; ( place
each pleat quite flat and smooth under the band , and
fasten each by a pin ; (d) tack the band just above its
edge firmly and securely, and remove the pins ; (e) fell
the band to the pleats, and fasten off securely close to the
seamed portion of the band ; ( f) turn the wrong side of
the apron towards you, and place the edge of the band
over the stitches, and be careful to see that all parts of
the pleats are lying flat and smooth, and then fell the
band very strongly to the garment; (g) be most careful
to avoid puckering the band, or huddling the pleats
together.
Votes. - 1. This method of fixing pleats is suitable for aprons,
petticoats, chemises, and drawers. These pleats are single
ones . 2. Double or box pleats, which are used at the bottom
of front folds of shirts, are made as follows : Measure to the
CHAP. II
MAKING UP A WORKING WOMAN'S APRON 11
right hand and to the left the amount of material you wish to
put into the pleat, and then crease into halves, and press back
to the right and the left, so that the under edges of each
poleat touch each other in the centre of the whole pleat above.
Box pleats narrow a garment twice as much as single pleats .
3. Pleats are folds used instead of gathers to narrow the full
part of a garment, either at the waist, neck, wrist, or leg.
Pleats are always made on the right side of a garment, and
they differ in size. Small pleats are suitable at the neck,
wrist, or leg portion of a garment, while large pleats look
better on petticoats. 4. The rule for proportion of garment to
band is two or three times the length of that part of the band
into which the pleats are to be set .
5. The Bib.—(a) Fix narrow hems on all four sides of
the bib, in the same way as the pocket was fixed, and
hem, and seam the ends ; (b) fold the bib into halves down
the length and well crease it ; (e) place the centre crease
of the bib to the centre crease of the C d
apron, right side to right side, and
seam the edges strongly and securely
on the wrong side, taking great care aа
to put extra stitches at the corners ;

(d) flatten the seams well.
6. Tape Strings. — The apron can
be fastened by a button and button
hole, as in Fig. 1 , but tape strings
allow of the garment being more
tightly and closely fastened round the
waist, and are necessary if the band
of the same material is not long enough
to encircle the waist. FIG . 7.
Fixing the Tape.—(a) Turn down a
fold at one end, as deep as half the width of the tape;
(6) hold the wrong side of the tape towards you, and
turn corner d down to the side ce to form a triangle, and
then press back the tape, and crease it across from e to f,
then open the triangle, and you will find a square is en
closed between cd and ef (Fig. 7 ), and this square must
be placed on the band.
12 NEEDLEWORK PARTY
Ficing anul Sewing Tape to the Banil.- ( w ) Crease the

band along its length, a short distance, exactly in the
middle ; (b) put the wrong side of the tape to the wrong
side of the band, with the folded edge of the tape od on
Wrong Side
Fig . S.
the band, and the creased line across it, ef, at the edge of
the band, the crease down the middle of the tape match
ing the crease on the band ; (c) put in a small pin, or a
few tacking stitches in the centre of the square of tape, to
Right Side
FIG . 9.
keep it quite even ; (nl) fasten on neatly and securely at

f (Fig. 8 ) and fell three sides of the square to the band,
taking the stitches through the wrong side of the band
only, because the material is too coarse to allow of the
needle going through the double stuff, (in fine materials
it is better to take the stitches quite through the double
CHAP. II MAKING UP A WOMAN'S PETTICOAT 13
stuff); (e) bring your needle through the edge of the

band to its right side at e, and fold the tape back to the
wrong side, and seam from e to f, holding the right side
of the band towards you (Fig. 9 ) ; ( f ) fasten off very
neatly and strongly, and flatten the seam ; (9) turn the
wrong side of the band towards you and fix a narrow
hem at the end of the tape, and then fasten on at the
corner and seam it and hem, and seam the other corner
(Figs. 8 and 9 ).
Tapes on the Bib . - Fix the tape as described above,
and place one end at each corner of the bib either to
form a loop to go over the head, and to be buttoned to
the band behind, or as two separate pieces to form
shoulder-straps, and to cross over at the back, and to tie
at the waist in front. In either method the tape must be
placed diagonally at the corners, and felled on three sides
of the square, and seamed at the edges, or stitched on the
right side. If the tapes are cut into separate pieces, the
ends must be finished off like those on the band, but if a
loop, a buttonhole must be worked on the tape, and a
button must be sewn to the band .
Notes . - 1. The first fold of moderately wide tape is half its own
width, but the whole width is turned down at first on narrow
tapes, and less than half the width on wide tapes . 2. The
size of the tape sewn to the band is a square, except narrow
tapes which have more fixed to the band ; and wide which
have less .
MAKING UP A WOMAN'S PETTICOAT
Materials needed.—Three breadths of flannel, a band,

one or two buttons, pins, needle, tacking and sewing
cotton .
THE LESSON
1. The Skirt Seams.—(a) Lay the front breadth on

the table, with its right side uppermost, and the nap
falling downwards ; ( ) take the other breadths and lay
them with their right sides to the right side of the front
breadth , and the nap falling downwards, and fasten the
breadths together by pins ; (c) turn the wrong side of the
breadths towards you , and fix the slanting sides of the
front breadth to the straight sides of the other two
breadths as follows : begin at the top of the front breadth
and place the slanting edge 4 of an inch or more from
the edge of the other breadth, and put in pins another
of an inch from the
slanting edge of the
front breadth, and
then tack neatly,
being careful to be
gin at the top, and
FIG . 10. to ease the slanting
edge, as it is liable
to be stretched in fixing (Fig. 10 ) ; (d) run-and-backstitch
strongly , taking the stitches quite through the double
material ; (e) when the seam is run -and -backstitched, take
out tackings , and fold over the straight edge firmly and
smoothly , and tack it close
to the edge, and herring.
bone it (Fig. 11 ) ; ( f ) fix
the other side of the front
breadth in exactly the
same way, and sew it in
the same manner ; (9)
place the straight edges
of the second and third
breadths together in pre FIG . 11 .
cisely the same way, begin
ning at the top, and keeping the top edges all even , and
measure down of the length of the skirt for the placket
hole, and put in a pin ; (h) from this pin to the bottom you
must make a seam exactly like those described above ; (i)
when all the seams are finished fix a broad hem (from 2
to 3 inches deep) at the bottom, being careful to cut
away the uneven edges at the bottom , and to see that the
skirt is equal in length on all sides by placing seam to

seam . The hem in flannel need not have a first fold ,
because it makes the hem too thick and clumsy, and
because flannel does not ravel out so easily as calico.
The herringbone stitch successfully fastens down the raw
edge. If the hem is fixed like a hem in calico, it should
be stitched on the right side of the garment ; the hem is
improved if it is stitched on the right side, a short distance
Wrong Side
101 BSRB
Fig . 12 .
from the folded edge. The hem is made firm and smooth
by the stitching. Two 1 -inch tucks may be fixed, and
run or feather-stitched .
2. The Placket Hole.-- (a) Place the wrong side of
the garment uppermost, and turn down one deep fold on
the left-hand side to form a hem (from 11 to 2 inches
deep ), keeping the hem the same width from the top to
the end of the opening, and tack neatly and then herring
bone. This wide hem will be on the right-hand side of
the garment, when the right side of the flannel is upper
most. (b) Turn down a narrower fold on the opposite
side of the placket, bringing this hem off to a point at the

end of the slit or opening in the seam, tack it, and then
herringbone it ; (c) buttonhole the end of the slit on the
wrong side to strengthen any raw edges at the point ; (a )
turn the garment with the wrong side out, and lap the
right-hand side over the left and stitch it across in two
straight rows a short distance apart. Fig. 12 shows the
fixing of the placket hole on the wrong side, but hem
ming stitches are used instead of herringbone stitches, as
in a calico petticoat.
3. Waistband.—(a) Turn down a fold 1 inch deep on
the two selvedges first, and then at the ends of the band ;
(6) fold the band into halves along the length, so as to
hide the folds, and well press the folded edge ; (c) tack
the two short ends and seam them ; (d ) divide the band
into halves and quarters, and mark by a few cross
stitches.
4. Pleats. —Divide the top part of the skirt into
halves and quarters, and pleat the fulness as described in
the lesson on making up an apron. Pleats in a petticoat
should always fall towards the placket hole, and a broad
plain piece should be left in the centre of the front
breadth. Set in the pleats as described in a previous
lesson .
5. Sewing on a Linen Button.—(a) If the band is a
narrow straight one, only one button is needed, and this
must be placed in the centre of the band, so the first
thing to do is to fold the band in half along its length at
the left - hand end, and then open it, and fold this end
inwards , or ) , or 3 , or an inch, according to the size of
the button .These creases will be guides for placing the
button in the middle of the band, and at the right distance
from the end of it. Buttons ought not to be placed close
to or beyond the edge of bands or hems, because it is
better to allow a portion of the material to lie under the
buttonholes for neatness and comfort. ( ) Find the right or
linen side of the button, and hold this side towards you ,
and then find the centre of the button by drawing the eye
CHAP . II MAKING UP A WOMAN'S PETTICOAT 17
of your needle over its surface vertically and horizontally ;

(c) measure with your eye half the distance between the
centre and the outer rim of the button, and mark a circle
either with the eye of your needle or by pricking holes
with the point (Fig. 13). You must
never stitch a linen button close to the
metal rim, because if you do the button
hole will have no room to lie under the
button. (d) Hold the right side of the
left-hand end of the band towards you,
and fasten on the cotton by backstitch
ing a small piece of the calico a little FIG . 13.
distance from where the creases cross
each other ; (e) place the wrong side of the button with
its centre on the place where the creases cross each
other , and bring your needle from the wrong to the
right side of the button through one of the holes on the
‫بلقي‬
a
Fig . 14.
circle ; (f) put your needle back two or three threads,

and push it downwards through the button and the band,
and draw it out gently and loosely to the wrong side of
the band, then put your needle upwards through the wrong
side of the band and the button, and bring it out on the
circle two or three threads above the first stitch (Fig. 14 ) ;
C
(9) put your needle back close to the stitch already made,
and push it downwards through the button and the band
(and either above or below the cotton on the wrong side, as
in ordinary stitching), and draw the needle out as before.
Go on stitching the button to the band in this way till
you are ready to make the last stitch, when, instead of
pulling the needle through from the right to the wrong
side of the band, you must bring it out between the button
and the band. (11) Take the cotton only in your hand, and
wind it round the button four or more times rather
tightly. This is called stemming the button. You should
always stem buttons that have no shanks, in order to tighten
the loose stitches on the surface of the button, and to
protect the cotton lying between the button and the band
from the constant friction of the buttonhole, and to raise
the button, and thus give the buttonhole plenty of space
to rest on underneath it. (i) Fasten off the cotton by
backstitching a small piece of the band under the button,
and break or cut the cotton rather close to the stitches.
If you stitch and stem the button tightly you will make
a deep pit on the wrong side, and pucker the band, and if
you stem the button too loosely you will make an untidy
ring of cotton round it, and will not raise it from the band
sufficiently.
6. Sewing on a Pierced Bone Button.-Bone buttons
are sometimes preferred to linen buttons for the bands of
petticoats and skirts. Bone buttons are
pierced in the centre, and must be sewn to
Х
the band by passing the needle downwards

and upwards through the holes, and form
ing sometimes straight stitches and some
FIG . 15. times crosses or triangles. Bone buttons
and all other buttons must be very strongly
fastened to the band and stemmed (Fig. 15).
7. Working the Buttonhole Stitch on the Band . - We
will suppose that you learnt how to work a buttonhole
on canvas and calico when you were a scholar in a day
school, and that now you only need to be told how to cut
and work it on a band. (a ) Crease the right-hand end of

the band in half across its length, so that the hole may be
exactly in the middle and opposite the button ; (b) measure
the width of the button, and place this measurement along
the middle crease just inside the turnings at the end of the
band, and mark with a pencil, or with the point of the
scissors or penknife, the exact width of the button, allow
ing a thread or two on either side for the corners, then
cut the hole perfectly straight with a penknife ; or fold in
the end of the band, making a crease, and cut in a straight
line along the middle of the band with the scissors, quite
through the fourfold material, a thread
or two beyond the half width of the
button ; (c) hold the folded edge and
right side of the band towards you, +
so that the round corner may be at the
I
end of the band (Fig. 14), and fasten 1
1
1
1
on at the left-hand end of the slit, 1
by weaving your needle under and 1

0
1
over the threads above the slit, and

leave a short end of cotton (Fig. 16 ) ;
(d) put your needle into the hole or
slit quite behind the double material
FIG . 16.
of the band, and bring it out between
two vertical threads, four threads
below the raw edge of the slit ; (e) put the fastening on
cotton behind the eye of the needle, and place the cotton
coming from the eye of the needle round its point from
left to right, thus forming a loop (Fig. 16), and then
draw the needle out and upwards to the raw edge of the
slit rather tightly, making a knot ; (f) throw the cotton
coming from the first stitch back over your left hand, that
it may lie behind the needle, and put your needle into the
slit again one (or more) threads to the right of the pre
ceding stitch and under four threads, then wind the cotton
coming from the eye of the needle round its point from
left to right, and draw the needle out and upwards rather
tightly, thus making another stitch with a knot (Fig. 16 ).
The knots of the stitches protect the raw edges of the slit,
and prevent them from ravelling out. Go on like this
till you reach the end of the slit, where you must turn
the corner .
8. The Round Corner of Seven Knotted Stitches. —
The round corner of a buttonhole may be made of seven
knotted stitches, or of nine without knots. The knotted
corner is the stronger of the two. The round corner,
whether knotted or unknotted , is used at the end of a
band , because it lies flatter under the button than the
braced corner. ( a) Place your needle under four threads
and one thread to the right of the last stitch, being careful
THE
+ - - 4
NO
FIG . 17.
to keep the cotton coming from the knot behind the needle,
and then wind the cotton round the point of the needle
from left to right, and draw the needle out and upwards,
thus forming a knotted stitch called No. 1 in Fig. 17 ; (6)
put your needle back into the slit close to No. 1 stitch of the
corner, and bring it out two threads to the right of No. 1
and one thread higher up, so that your needle now lies
under three threads, and finish this stitch with a knot ;
this stitch is called No. 2 in Fig. 17 ; (c) put your needle
back into the slit close to No. 2 stitch, and bring it out
two threads to the right of No. 2 and one thread higher
up, and finish with a knot ; this stitch is No. 3 ; ( d) put
your needle in the slit close to No. 3 and bring it out two
threads to the right of No. 3 and under four threads in
a straight line with the hole, and finish with a knot ; No.
4 stitch is in the centre ; (e) No. 5 is worked like No. 3 ;
No. 6 like No. 2 ; and No. 7 like No. 1 (Fig. 17). When
you have finished the seven knotted stitches put your
needle into the slit one thread to the right of No. 7 and
under four threads, and make a knot as before. Go on
till this side of the hole is finished, and then work the
other corner in the same way, if you prefer both corners
round, or brace it as described below .
N.B. - You must leave two threads between each stitch in the
knotted corner if the material is fine, and if one thread has
been left between all the other stitches of the hole. You must
draw the knots of the stitches in the corner rather tightly, or
the edges will be raised too much , and the shape will be spoilt.
9. The Braced Corner.— (a ) When you have button
holed the second side of the slit, quite close to the corner,
you must turn your work, with the corner in front of you,
and make two or three long straight stitches from one side
of the slit to the other, quite through the double material, in
order to draw the sides of the hole closer together without
puckering ; (b) tuck the fastening -on end of cotton under
these stitches to hide it ; (C) your needle and cotton must
be coming out at the left-hand side of the slit ; (d) put
your needle into a space above the long straight stitches,
and close to the bottom edge of the left-hand side stitches,
quite through the double material, and bring it out four
threads deep, proceeding in the usual way to make a
knotted stitch, and pulling the cotton upwards rather
tightly ; (e) put your needle into a space one thread to
the right of the first stitch and under four threads, and
make a knotted stitch as before. Go on like this, being
careful that the fifth stitch is in a straight line with the
slit, and that the ninth stitch is worked on the bottom
edge of the first or fastening on side (Fig. 17 ).
Notes . - 1. All the stitches must be seen as distinctly on the
wrong side as on the right, and must all be four threads
deep. 2. Bracing the corner of a buttonhole strengthens it ,
and keeps it a good shape.
10. Fastening off . — Put your needle through to the

wrong side, quite close to the knot of the ninth stitch, and
weave it under and over the stitches of the braced corner,
and fasten off by two or three backstitches, one over the
other, and then break the cotton .
11. Fastening on a new Needleful of Cotton.—(a) If
the cotton should break, or should not be long enough to
finish the hole, you must put your needle through the slit
to the wrong side, and weave your needle under and over
the stitches, and fasten off by a backstitch ; (6) thread
your needle with a new needleful of cotton and weave it
under and over the threads of the calico on the wrong
side, then turn the right side of the work towards you,
and put your needle through the knot of the last stitch,
and go on with the buttonhole stitch as before. Always
try to make a buttonhole with one needleful of cotton.
12. Unshaped Strengthening Tape.—A straight piece
of rather wide tape is often placed at the bottom of the
placket hole, on the wrong side of the garment. Method .
-(a) Turn down a narrow fold at each end of the tape
on its wrong side ; (b) crease the tape in half across its
width ; (c) place the selvedges of the tape on the wrong
side of the garment, over the end of the slit, the crease
matching the middle of the wide hem, and then tack it in
position ; (d ) hem the tape neatly and firmly to the
garment, being careful with the corners. This tape
strengthens the end of the slit more effectually than the
buttonhole stitches.
MAKING UP AN INFANT'S FIRST SHIRT

Materials needed.--Shirt and two triangular gussets,
needle, and fine sewing cotton, trimming of lace or ever
lasting edging, two pieces of narrow tape from 1 to 1.1
inches long, and small pins and tacking cotton.
THE LESSON
1. Body of Shirt.- (a ) Hems.-- The first hems must be

CHAP. II MAKING UP AN INFANT'S FIRST SHIRT 23
made on the wrong side, the selvedge way of the material,

as far as 2 or 21 inches from the top, that is the depth of
the flaps. The hems must be very narrow . The hems of
the flaps and shoulder-points must be fixed on the right
side of the shirt, because all the flaps are turned down on
to the right side of the garment, and the hemming stitches
must all match . The hem at the bottom must be fixed on
the wrong side. All the hems must be very narrow,
without being rolled or clumsy.
(6) Shoulder Seams. — The shoulders are fixed for counter
fell, and felled on both sides, or stitched on one edge on
the right side from the armhole half-way towards the
shoulder-point, and felled on the wrong side for the same
distance ; then turn to the wrong side and stitch one
edge to match the stitching on the right side, and fell the
other edge to match the felling on the right side. This is
called reversing the stitches. The shoulder-point is turned
back towards the armhole, and so the stitches must
match. Both edges may be stitched.
(c) The Armholes . — Fix very narrow hems on the wrong
side all round, and bring them off to a point at the bottom
—that is at I and J (Fig. 5 ).
2. Gussets.—Fix narrow hems on all sides of the tri
angular gussets, beginning with the short sides first ;
neatly hem if material like lawn. Fix the points of the
gussets to the bottom of the armholes, and place the wrong
sides of the gussets to the wrong sides of the armholes,
and seam them in on the right side of the shirt. Be very
careful at all the corners to seam closely and securely.
3. Trimming.–Lace edging must be drawn up by the
cotton at its edge to the required fulness, which may be
1, or 4, or }, or of the length of the part to be trimmed .
It is usual to trim the armholes, shoulders, and flaps of
this garment. ( a) Place the right side of the lace to the
right side of the garment, and seam the edge of the lace
between the folds neatly and regularly ; (b) put extra ful
ness at all corners and points, and seam the folds as closely
together as possible ; ( c) the joins in the trimming for
the sleeves must be placed at the shoulder seams, and

the joins in the trimming for the flaps must be placed at
the corners between the shoulders and the flaps. Extra
material must be allowed for all joins, in addition to the
fulness. (a ) Everlasting edging must be hemmed to the
garment by its webbing, the right side of the trimming
being placed to the wrong side of the garment (Fig. 18).
er
20
re
లో
R
e
g
o
Fig . 18.
4. Strengthening Tapes.-- Strengthening tapes are

placed at the corners between the shoulders and the
flaps to strengthen these parts. (These corners can be
strengthened by buttonhole stitches instead of tapes. )
Strengthening tapes are also used instead of gussets at
the end of slits and seams, and may be used at the arm
holes of this garment as substitutes for the triangular
gussets.
5. Fixing and Shaping the Tape.- (a ) Crease the tape
exactly in half ; (b) then turn the tape so that it crosses
CHAP. II MAKING UP AN INFANT'S FIRST SHIRT 25
somewhere about half its length and forms the base of an

angle C (Fig. 19) ; (e) now turn a narrow fold once at
each end of the tape, both folds being turned in the same
direction, so as to make a right and wrong side to the
tape, being careful to measure the long sides of the tape
to see if they are equal in length (Fig . 19, A and B) ; ( )
put a few tacking stitches where the tape is crossed to
keep it in shape.
6. Fixing the Shaped Tape to the Garment.- (a) Turn
the wrong side of the gar
ment towards you, and place
the wrong side of the tape at
C (Fig. 19 ) at the corner, and
put in a pin ; (b) measure the
sides of the tape once more
to see if the tape is placed in
equa l length on both sides of
the opening ; (c) tack the
'B
tape in this position and take out the pins.

FIG . 19.
7. Sewing the Tape to the Garment.— ( a) Hold the

right side of the garment towards you, and seam from B
A
to C and from C to A neatly and regularly ; (b) slip your
needle at A between the garment and the tape, and bring
it out on the tape close to the seamed edge ; (c) fell the
tape to the garment as far as the base of the angle, then
fell the crossing piece of tape to that which lies under it,
and not through the material ; ( d) slip the needle back
again, and fell on till B is reached, where the cotton must
be fastened off neatly and strongly ; (e) flatten the tape
by pressing it well between the palms of your hands.
The felling stitches must show through quite distinctly
on the right side.
CHAPTER III
CUTTING OUT CHEMISES, DRAWERS, PINAFORES,

OVERALLS, AND SHIRTS
CUTTING OUT A GORED CHEMISE BY FOLDING IT PILLOW

CASE FASHION
Method.- 1 . (a) Cut the requisite length and breadth of

the material, and fold it across the width in half, firmly
creasing the folded edge ; (b) open the material again, and
fold the two raw edges in towards the crease, thus dividing
the length into three parts : the underlying portion being
half the length, and each of the two upper portions being
one fourth the length ; (c) tack the selvedges together and
neatly seam, without puckering, and flatten the seams when
finished .
N.B.-In small- size chemises one selvedge side may have raw
edges, which must be joined by sew -and - fell seam , or counter
hem .
2. (a) Turn the garment with the raw edges to the

desk or table, and with the crease across its width going
from right to left, and with the selvedges up and down ;
(1) measure from the selvedge edges inwards, as many
inches as you would like the gore in width, usually from
3 to 4 inches for a chemise, and more for a nightgown ;
mark the measurement by pins, and crease upwards from
them in a slanting direction to the selvedges, and to a
point, thus forming four creased lines, two on each
quarter of the garment ; (c) cut along the four creases to
the selvedges, being most careful to cut only the upper
portion of the material; ( d) the creased line across the
centre of the material forms the top edge of the garment,
which is narrowed on either side by the width of the gore ;
CHAP. III PILLOW-CASE CHEMISE 27
(e) the four short gores fall to the bottom of the garment,
and widen it there ; ( f ) the sides of the garment must be
fixed for sew -and-fell seam from the bottom upwards to
within 9 or 10 inches of the top, if a woman's chemise ; or
6, 7, or 8 inches if a girl's ( Fig. 20).
3. The Sleeves.—(a) These may be variously shaped,
А Folded BВ Folded
Bottom Neck
E
Bottom
Folded Folded
at 6
Fig . 20. - Pillow - case chemise .
and may be cut out with or without gussets. The following

is a good and economical method : (1) cut a piece of the
material the length and depth of the sleeve required, with
an addition to the length of the depth ; for instance, if
the depth is 5 inches, and the armhole of the sleeve is 14
inches round, the whole width of the stuff must be 19
inches, selvedge way.
N.B .--The depth of a sleeve is usually about a quarter of its

length.
(c) Fold the material for the necessary size of the armhole,
and then cut down 4 or 1 inch, according to the depth of
the hem needed, on the square that extends beyond the
double material ; ( d ) cut off this inch from the square at
the top, and fold the woof edge over to the selvedge to
form a diagonal gusset.
N.B.-Another inch of material must be cut off, at the bottom of
the square .
(e) Fix for sew-and-fell seam or counter-hem : if a sew
Shoulder of and -fell seam, the double
Chemise . fold must be fixed on the
Linked
Folded straight woof side, and the

single on the side that has
1 inch of woof added to the
1 selvedge of the square gus
1 set (Fig. 21 ).
1.B. - 1 . There is a saving of
labour in this sleeve, because
it dispenses with one seam .
2. If a gusset is added to the
sleeve, it must be a square ,
1 inch less than the depth
of the sleeve.
Gu
ss
4. Cutting out the Neck

et
Curves. — ( a) Measure off

the shoulders, which in a
pillow - case shape chemise
must be d or of the
breadth of the stuff ; (6)
then fold the chemise in
FIG . 21 .
halves down the length, and
measure down from the top
folded edge of the length of the garment for the
depth of the curve in the front of the chemise; then put
the point of your scissors in the stuff at this depth (in a
CHAP . III A GORED CHEMISE, WITH YOKES 29
woman's chemise about 5 inches), and cut round to the

shoulder, being careful to raise the curve as you near the
shoulder. When you have cut one side of the curve turn
the chemise over, and cut the opposite side of the curve to
the shoulder-point. (c) The back of the chemise is always
kept higher than the front (about y of the length of the
garment in the middle), turn the back part of the garment
towards you, and slope it by the curve in the front, only
keeping it higher till you near the shoulders, where the
edges of the curves must meet.
5. Front Slit.—If you put on a front fold to the right
arm side of the chemise, and take a hem from the garment
on the left-arm side, you must not cut down the centre
crease in the front of the garment, but I of an inch or more
to the right of the centre crease, so as to increase the width
of the left-arm side of the garment before the hem is fixed .
Tear down the front, or cut, as long as will be comfortable
and necessary. In a woman's chemise from 5 to 6 inches
will be enough for the slit.
6. Neckband.—The whole length of the neckband sel
vedge way of the stuff generally equals the width of the
material. Suppose the width of the calico is from 34 to
36 inches for a woman's size chemise, the band must be
from 34 to 36 inches long. The depth of the band when
folded should be 4 inch, so that it must be 2 inches wide
when first cut out. Bands of children's chemises are
narrower .
N.B. -The length of the band varies with a high or low neck
curve, as well as with the size of the garment.
CUTTING OUT ANOTHER GORED CHEMISE WITH YOKE

NECKBAND
1. Folding and Cutting out the Body of the Chemise.

—(a) Take the right length of material, and fold it in
half,and well crease the folded edge ; (b) fold the garment
into halves again across the width, and then open it out ;
(c) measure inwards from the selvedges at the top folded
30 NEEDLEWORK PARTI
edge 4 inches for the width of the gores ; (11) fold from
the 4 inches down to a point at the centre crease, on
both sides of the garment; (e) cut off these gores, and
place the points at the centre crease and the wide part of
the gores to the bottom edge ; ( f) cut the folded part of
the gores. Two gores are thus added to the garment,
which is widened at the bottom, and narrowed at the
top.
2. The Sleeves.--(a ) Take a piece of material from 18
to 20 inches long and from 5 to 6 inches deep, and fold it
-10" in halves, so that it is 9 or 10
* olded
A
inches long ; (b) divide this
into thirds, and crease from
F
10'X 6 " } at F to A, and cut off in a

true slanting line ; (c) fold the
depth of the sleeve into halves
>D
and quarters, then crease a
FIG . 22. slanting line from the first
quarter at E to F, and cut a
curve inside the slanting line (Fig. 22 ). The sleeve is
now cut out. Lay this sleeve on the second piece of
material , and cut it out exactly the same. The gusset
sleeve can be used , if liked .
3. The Yoke Neckband. -(a ) Take a piece of material
Fourfold
from 16 to 18 inches long,

"3 1
Folded
selvedgewise, and from 8
m
F - 22B
Folded
!!
-to
to 10 inches deep ; (6)

fold this into halves down Back
HH
the length, so that the

double material is 4 or 5
G
inches wide ; (c) fold the FIG . 23.
length into halves, so that
the material is fourfold ; (cl) then fold the length into halves
again , and then into quarters ; ( ) open the material, so
that it is still fourfold , and three creases are visible ; ( f )
fold the depth into thirds ; ( 9) cut from the 1 crease at
G to the ſcrease at E in a curve (Fig. 23) ; (h) fold a
slanting line from E to F , which is of depth to 1 of
CHAP . III A GORED CHEMISE, WITH YOKES 31
length, and cut this off quite straight ; (i) fold a slanting
line from F to H, which is } of the depth from the bottom
edge, and cut in a straight line from H to the } crease,
AK F 4
11 EB
Folded
Nec
to
30 ong
joi
"l.be kband
ned
Folded
29 " X 15"
1
X152
"1
Whole width 30"
15 " .
Fig. 24 .
and then curve round to F, and the half yoke and its
lining are cut out (Fig. 23 ).
N.B. — It is better to cut out the pattern in paper first, and lay it
on the calico. The yoke is made in two halves, and must
have linings to make it double material, like all other bands.
A chemise with a yoke neckband is more durable than any
other pattern, and more suitable for women and girls occupied
in active labour than chemises with sleeves and shoulders all
in one piece .
4. The Binders.-- Binders are false hems, and are
sometimes cut quite straight, and sometimes are cut on
the cross and on the curve . The binders for this chemise
are best cut on the straight. Four straight pieces not less
than 6 inches long and 2 inches wide are required .
SCALE FOR WOMEN'S AND GIRLS' CHEMISES

( a) Length = 3 or of the height of the wearer. If
8" the wearer is 4 feet high, the
Foldea chemise must be 32 inches long
when doubled.
(1) Breadth = of the length
Neckband is when the chemise is folded at
24 " x 24 " the top. If the chemise is 32
edge d
Folde
inches long the width must be

28 inches, and if it is 40 inches
long the width must be 35 inches,
and so on .
24" x 12"
(c) Neckband.—Length = the
width of the stuff in the chemise.
Child's Chemise Depth from 1 to of an inch .
(2) Sleeves.-(a ) Length .--
Women's and girls', i of the
Whole Width 24" length of the garment. Chil
dren's, of the length. (6) Depth .
----- 12''
Fig . 23 .
--- of own length.
V.B. - Children's chemises are usually as wide as they are long.

Figs. 24 and 25 are diagrams of a girl's and a child's chemise.
CUTTING OUT A PAIR OF CHILD'S FIRST-SIZE DRAWERS
1. Method of Cutting out in Paper by Folding.- (a )

Take a 24-inch square of paper, and fold the left- hand
CHAP . III A PAIR OF CHILD'S FIRST-SIZE DRAWERS 33
bottom corner to the right-hand top corner, half handker

chiefwise ; (b) lay the diagonal crease to your left hand,
and the selvedge BC to your right hand, as in Fig. 26 ;
(c) fold the length into thirds across the woof, so that each
division will be 8 inches ; open the paper and you will
find two creases across it from BC to the diagonal fold ;
24 " H
AF
n
ai
Pl ul
KIG
1
d
e re I
th
Ga
54
doubled
"
.3inches
inches
when
Band
deep
long
,and
24
14 %
is
Fo
47 "
Cr
ld
os
th
ed
on
s.
e
Selvedge
72
FIG . 26.
(d) fold BC in on the half square to H 41 inches, that is,

nearly / of the width of the square ; (e) cut from E, which
is a little below the first third, and curve inwards to the
vertical crease , which goes down from H to the diagonal
fold, and then outwards a little below the second third, i.e.
to F ; ( f ) fold the top third into halves across the woof,
and slope off 1 inch from F to G, i.e. as far as half of the
D
top third ; (9) cut in a slanting direction from G to H,

which is as far as the vertical crease from H downwards ;
(h) fold the garment in a slanting direction from H to D,
and cut the piece of material represented by dotted lines
from AH to D off, and the paper pattern of a pair of
drawers is cut out.
2. Method of Cutting out in Material.—(a) Take a
piece of calico or flannel, or soft swansdown calico, 24
inches square, and fold the square as described in ( a )
above ; (b) lay the paper pattern on the material with the
diagonal line of the paper on the diagonal crease in the
stuff ; (c) pin the pattern to the stuff, and cut the curve and
slopes truly and evenly ; (d ) cut the band all in one piece,
if possible, 24 inches long and 3 inches deep.
Note. -If the material is 36 inches wide you can get four bands
off the width of the stuff, after you have torn off the 24- inch
square . If the material is flannel 28 inches wide, there will
be only enough for one band off the width of the stuff.
CUTTING OUT A PAIR OF CHILD'S KNICKERBOCKER

DRAWERS (Fig. 27)
1. Method of Cutting out in Paper .— (a) Take a piece
of paper 16 inches long and 24 inches wide, and fold it
into halves and quarters across the woof, and into halves
and quarters and eighths down the length ; (b) open the
paper and you will find three creases across the width and
seven creases down the length ; (c) fold the paper in half
down the length and at the open edges (represented when
the paper is open by IH and JK in the diagram , Fig.
27 ), draw a pencil curve from 1 inch beyond the first
eighth crease to } an inch above the first quarter crease,
for the curve of the leg ; (a ) cut this curve, being most
careful not to curve inwards too much, and to begin by a
straight line at I and J ; (e) open the paper and fold the
top quarter AB into halves, so that each division will be
2 inches ; ( f ) fold from H in a slanting line to the half of
the first quarter, and nearly to the first eighth crease, i.e.
at
AK -- 3" E
22/2
False
opening
Hem
"
L
Hip
2311
1434
"
1
"M
FalsetHem
16 " 24
1
KH
Hem e
-Fals
482
41/4
"
- i
-7
x
" 1l
I)
ht
16 " x 24
1
소
False
Hem
-41
"
С. A
Front Waistband Back Waistband

132" x 411 14 " * 4 "
Leg -bands - 13"x -2 " 13 “

B
TIG , 27,
21 inches in from G and down from F ; (g) cut along this
18
"
Edge
--3---
18 " .
IX 1 e
Fo
d
d
36" X 18"
Knickerbockers
6"
Hem and Tucks
44 " 1374 D
H
Fig . 28.
crease, keeping the line quite straight and not curving it

in the least ; ( h) cut in a straight line as far as L ; (i)
CH. III DIMENSIONS OF GIRL'S PAIR OF DRAWERS 37
and then curve round and upwards to the edge of the

paper to the first eighth at E ; ( ) keep the edge of the
paper straight from K to the second quarter, and then
curve outwards and round to E, and the pattern of one
leg is ready (Fig. 27).
2. Method of Cutting out in Material.—a) Take a
piece of material 32 inches long and 24 inches wide, and
fold it in halves, so that it is 16 inches long, like the diagram,
Fig. 27 ; (b) pin the paper pattern on the material, placing
the line IJ on the folded edge of the stuff, and all parts
of the paper pattern quite straight and even on the
material; (c) cut all the curves and slopes quite through
the double material, if it is possible.
Notes. - 1. By cutting in this way you get the leg slopes in one
piece, and can get the false hems from these slopes, as shown
in the diagram . The bands are all straight pieces cut with
the longest sides down the selvedges. 2. You must cut along
the folded edge J to I to separate the two legs, before you can
make them up.
N.B. - Fig. 28 is the diagram of a woman's pair of drawers .

3. Dimensions of a Girl's Pair of Drawers, Twelve
Years old .
( a) Length, 28 inches.
(1) Breadth, 32 inches.
(c) Length of leg, 12 inches.
(d) Body, 16 inches.
(e) Slope of leg at bottom, 7 } inches.
Slope of back of leg at the top, 4 inches.
(9) Slope in the middle of the leg, 4 inches.
(h) Slope of front of leg, 5 inches off the width and
2 inches off the length .
(i) Length of waistband = the measure round the
waist, plus 2 inches for lapping.
N.B. - For other sizes, see author's Text-book of Needlework ,
Knitting, and Cutting Out.
PINAFORES
CUTTING OUT A CHILD'S PINAFORE
Materials needed . — From 1 to 1 yard of holland or

print from 30 to 36 inches wide, scissors, inch measure,
tape strings, pins.
THE LESSON
Measuring, Folding, and Cutting out.- (a ) Take a
piece of material the length and breadth required, and
fold it into halves and quarters down the length, and well
Sh
press the folds to leave creases ;

Vi r
ou
ld
(b) place the fourfold doubled

-e-w
e
Back
Armhole
18/
-
t
Fron edges to your right hand (BD,
Fig. 29), and fold the pinafore
ng into thirds across the width ;
Tapestri
Child's
(c) if the pinafore is 27 inches
Pinafore
long each third will be 9 inches
T
long, and from B to E, which
1 includes the shoulder-slope and
length of the armhole, is 8.1
27"x 30 " inches, or nearly } of the length ;
to 36 " put in a pin a little above the
first crease across the material ;
( d ) fold the top third into thirds
for the depth of the shoulder
slope, which is 2 ! inches from
B to F, i.e. nearly of the first
14 of width third, and put in a pin just above
9" .
the topmost crease ; (e) fold the
Fig . 29.
material in from BF to G to
form a triangle, well press, and
then open out, and cut off the triangle ; ( f) cut from F
to E through the fourfold thickness for the length of arm
hole to nearly the first third of the length. (If the
material is 36 inches long, to allow of a deep hem
C.
CHAP . III A YOKED PINAFORE FOR CHILD 39
and a tuck, you must fold the pinafore into fourths

across the width, and a fourth of 36 inches will equal
a third of 27 inches. ) (9) Fold the top of the pinafore
from AB down to the first crease, which is 3 inches
deep, and thus divide it into halves, or 11 inches ; this
depth is necessary for the slope of the neck at the back ;
and then fold in a slanting line from A to G ; (h) open the
material, and cut in a straight line from I for a little more
than } of the width of the folded material at the back open
edges, and then curve round to G ; (i) fold and cut the
slope of the front from the double edge an inch lower than
the back, at first in a straight line and then gradually curve
round to the G at the shoulder, and the pinafore is cut
out.
N.B.—This is a very simple pattern, easy to cut out and make up

( Fig. 29 ) . The age of the child would be from eighteen
months to two years old.
Notes.-- 1. Pinafores are wider than they are long. The propor
tion is usually from once and a half to twice the length. 2.
A breadth and a half of holland must be used for a pinafore
for a child of from two to four years. The length must be
decided by the height of the child . About ſ of the height
is a good rule.
A YOKED PINAFORE FOR CHILD OF THREE TO FOUR

YEARS OLD
Materials needed.— 14 yards of print or muslin , scissors,

measure, pins.
THE LESSON
1. Cutting out the Front.-(a ) Take a piece of print

20 inches long and 28 inches wide, and fold it in half
down its length ; (b) then fold it into thirds down its
length ; (c) open the material and measure down on the
folded edges from E to I 24 inches ; ( d) fold this 21 inches
in on the material to form a triangle, and a square when
opened, and crease it well ; (e) then draw a faint pencil
curve from F to the bottom line of the square, that is 2 .

inches in from I ; ( f) cut from F, beginning with a straight
line, to this point for the armhole portions of the front,
being careful to cut through the double material ; (g) take
up the material and carefully crease it from the under part
of the armhole in a slanting line to the bottom, and cut
this off.
--3X" ...-44" . 94 " .

Open Edge N Open Edges
N
211"
14
2
H
Selvedge
Folded
Back
Front
Open
20".
20".
20
20
14"X
15
X"
15 "
FIG . 30.
Vote . — You need not cut the material at the bottom as at J, but
leave it to be shaped when the sides are joined together.
2. Cutting out the Backs.— (« ) Take a piece of print

20 inches long and 30 inches wide, and fold it in half
down its length ; (b) fold it into halves again, and then
into quarters ; (©) open it, so that it is twofold, and place
the folded selvedge to your right hand ; (d) measure down
at E 24 inches on the folded selvedge ; (e) then measure
in from I 24 inches for the armhole and side slopes ; ( f )
CHAP. III CUTTING OUT A YOKED OVERALL 41
draw a pencil line lightly from G to H, that is from the

first quarter crease to the 24 inches in, for the armhole
curves ; (g) cut from G to H ; (h) take up the material and
crease in a slanting line from H to the bottom, and cut
this off, leaving the bottom at I straight, as in the front.
3. The Yokes. — The yokes are all cut quite straight.
(a) The front is 10 inches long and 3 inches wide ; (b) the
backs are each 51 inches long and 3 inches wide ; (c) the
shoulder -straps are each 5 inches long and 3 inches wide.
The length is the selvedge way of the stuff.
Note . — You need not cut out any waistband or strings, because
this pinafore is so often made up to hang loosely from the
neck and shoulders.
CUTTING OUT A YOKED OVERALL
Children's overalls are generally fromtwo and a half to

three times as wide as they are long. They are best made
of washing materials, and can be used as pinafores or frocks.
Materials needed.—For the size given, 3 } yards of
print 34 inches wide, scissors, measure, pins.
1. Folding , Measuring , and Cutting out half of the
Front in Paper.—(a) Take a piece of paper 29 inches long
and 18 inches wide, and fold it into halves and quarters
down the length, and press the folds well ; (b) open the
paper, and you will find three creased lines going down it,
and each division of the paper will be 44 inches ; (c) look at
the diagram (Fig. 31 ) and you will see that the width of
the armhole slope is 4 inches, that is nearly as far as the
first crease on the paper ; ( d) measure down on the
selvedge at your right hand 2 inches, that is from B to
J ; (e) draw a curve from G to J for the armhole ; ( f) cut
out this curve, and the front half of the pattern is done.
2. Folding, Measuring, and Cutting out half of the
Back.--(a) Take a piece of paper 30 inches long and 18
inches wide, and fold it down its length into halves and
quarters and eighths ; (b) look at the diagram of the back,
and you will see that from B to H is 21 inches, that is
of the width ; (c) measure down at the left-hand selvedge

from B to I 3 inches, or fold the paper across the width
into ten parts, because the depth of the armhole is o of
the length ; ( d ) draw a curve from H to I ; (e) cut out the
Placket
GK----
4" B 24 "_H F
Cut
Gathered Gathered
for
2 " ]3 "
Front Back K
do''
Folded
29" x 18 " 30" X 18 "

29
."
Folded
30
'
1 1
18 "
18 " ---
5 ": F.3% " ‫ א_ך‬B

II
E
7 " x 841 "
9 "x 9" Back lyoke
Front Yoke and its ſlining
and its lining Folded
Folded E IND
Fig. 31 .
curve ; ( f ) from F to K is 10 inches, that is į of the

length for the opening down the middle of the back, so
divide the back across the width into thirds to get this
length.
N.B. - In this pattern the sides are kept quite straight.
3. Folding, Measuring, and Cutting out one Sleeve .
CHAP . III CUTTING OUT A YOKED OVERALL 43
(a) Take a piece of paper 20 inches long and 28 inches

wide, and fold it down its length into halves and quarters ;
(6) fold the paper across the width into halves ; (c) open
the paper, and place the folded edge to your right hand,
and draw the curved line for the upper arm from E to L,
by beginning at the open edges at your left hand, 1 inch
above the quarter crease across the width, and curving
TE be gathered
-2 -= - * 关
** 1 HE
One Sleeve
20 " ☆ 28"
1
Under Arm Upper Arm
To be gathered
HK
B B
Folded
crease
5 12 "
folded
this
To
at
be
Another
Cuff
13%6"
"xIo
"το
Shaped
Cuff
E ID
Fig . 31 - continued .
outwards, till you reach the centre crease down the

length, and then curve round close to the top as far as
the folded edge ; (cl) measure in from the open edges
at your left hand, and at the bottom 2 inches, and draw
à curved line from H to E for the side slope of the
sleeve ; (e) turn the paper over, so that the open edges
are at your right hand ; ( f ) fold the paper down its length
into quarters ; (9) at 1 inch above the centre crease across
the paper draw a partly curved line from F to I, which is

nearly to the first quarter crease down the paper ; (h) then
curve inwards and upwards from I to J, keeping this curve
half-way between the second quarter of the paper, and
carrying it as far as the centre crease down the paper ;
(i) curve outwards and upwards to the top edge, so that
this part of the curve matches that of the upper arm ;
( j) cut out the side slopes by the drawn line, while the
paper is folded ; (k) open the paper and cut the curves
of the upper and under arm separately. This is the left
arm sleeve, if material has a right and wrong side..
4. Folding, Measuring , and Cutting out the Cuff.
Take a piece of paper 10 inches long and 10 inches wide,
that is a square, and fold it in half down the selvedge, so
that it is 10 inches long and 5 inches wide. This is the
simplest cuff to remember.
5. Folding, Measuring, and Cutting out the Front
Yoke.— (a) Take a 9 - inch square of paper , and fold it into
halves and quarters, the selvedge wayof the stuff ; (6) if
the paper is lined, put the paper on the desk, so that the
lines go up and down, as the selvedge would do in a piece
of striped print ; (c) look at the diagram, and you will find
the neck is 5 inches wide, and the shoulder is 4 inches,
and the centre crease divides the paper into 4.1 inches on
either side ; and the depth of the neck slope is 3 inches,
that is į of the depth of the stuff ; (d) fold the paper across
its width into thirds, and press the folds well ; (e) open
the paper, and draw the neck curve 1 an inch from the
centre crease towards your right hand, and then towards
your left hand, down to of the depth of the paper, that
is from G to H ; (f ) draw the shoulder line from G to F,
which is nearly as far as the first third of the depth ; (g)
then curve from F out to D or 1 inch in from D, that is
to E. The front half of the yoke is now ready for the left
shoulder.
6. Folding, Measuring, and Cutting out one Back Yoke.
-- (a ) Take a piece of paper 7 inches long, down the sel
vedge, and 8.1 inches wide, and fold it in halves down the
CHAP. III BOYS' SHIRTS 45
selvedge ; (b) measure from the centre crease towards your

left hand of an inch, and down the selvedge at your right
hand 1 an inch for the neck slope ; (c) draw a line from F
to G, and another from F to E (which is nearly as far as
the first quarter crease across the paper) for the shoulder
slope ; (d) cut out the neck curve and shoulder slope, and
curve out a little for the armhole from E to D. You have
now cut out the half back for the left arm. You must be
most careful to face material that has a pattern, or the
shoulders will not match.
Note .-The material for the front and back breadths must be from
34 to 36 inches wide, so the breadths must be first folded into
halves before the patterns are laid upon them . The armhole
part of the pattern must be placed upon the open edges of the
material. This pattern is large enough for a girl from ten to
twelve years of age. For other sizes, see Text-book, and
Needlework, Knitting, and Cutting out for Older Girls, Stand
ards VI . and VII .
BOYS ' SHIRTS
Materials needed.—Oxford or calico shirting, white or

unbleached calico, cricketing flannel or flannelette, pins,
measures, scissors.
ČUTTING OUT A PLAIN SHIRT WITH SHOULDER

STRAPS, ETC.
( For a Boy between Ten and Eleven Years of Age )
THE LESSON
1. Folding, Measuring, and Cutting out the Body.- (a )
Take a piece of material 47 inches long and 22 inches
wide, and fold it across the woof, so that it is 224 inches
long on one side and 244 inches long on the other side.
( The shorter side is the front of the body, and the longer
side is the back . Always remember to add 2 or 2 ) inches
to the length for the back of the body. ) (b) Press the top
folded edge well ; (c) notice that the body is a square, that
is the width is the same as the length of the front ; (d)

fold the body into halves and then into quarters down the
length, and fold it into thirds across the woof, as far as
the length of the front of the body, and well press the
folds ; (e) one-third of the length of the front is the length
of the armholes, one-third is the length of the sides, to be
joined together, and one-third plus the 2 inches added to
the back is for the flaps ; ( f) one-fourth of the width on
each side of the selvedges at the top folded edge is just a
little more than the length of the shoulders ; (9) measure
with your inch -tape 4 inches in from the selvedges along
the top folded edge to the į creases, and put in pins ; (h)
cut along this folded crease across the woof from pin to
pin for the neck of the front and back of the body ; (i)
measure to the right of the centre crease on the front of
the body ļ an inch, and put in a pin ; this is to make the
left-arm side of the front at the neck wider than the right
arm side, because the left-arm hem is made wider and laps
over the right-arm hem, and cut down 13 inches ; ( j) the
neck of the front must be sloped out, but it is better to do
this after the neck gussets are set in . The body is now
ready to be made up.
2. Folding, Measuring, and Cutting out the Sleeves,
Sleeve Gussets, and Wristbands.— (a) Measure off two
pieces of the shirting 15 inches long and 13 inches wide,
fold and crease, and cut carefully and evenly, and lay them
aside; (b) measure off two 4.1-inch squares for the gussets
at the top of the sleeves ; (c) measure and cut off a 2
inch square for the gussets at the wrist opening of the
sleeves, and cut this square in half diagonally ; (d ) measure
and cut off two pieces of the material, each 71 inches long
and 3 inches wide, for the wristbands, and fold and cut
this material quite straight and even ; (e) pin the two
square gussets, and the two diagonal gussets, and the
wristbands to the sleeves, and lay them aside.
3. Folding, Measuring, and Cutting out the Shoulder
Straps and Neck Gussets.—(a) Measure and cut off two
pieces of the stuff, each 7 inches long and 2 inches wide,
CHAP . III SCALES OF PROPORTION FOR SHIRTS 47
for the two shoulder-straps ; (6) measure and cut off two
3 -inch squares for the neck gussets ; (c) pin these together
and lay them aside.
4. Folding, Measuring, and Cutting out the Collar,
Binders, Body Gussets, and False Hems for the Front
Opening.-(a) Measure and cut off 13 inches long and 8
inches deep for the collar, which will be a turned-down one ;
(b) measure and cut off two pieces of the stuff, each 17
inches long and 2 inches wide, for the binders ; ( c) measure
and cut off a 2-inch square, and then cut it in half diagon
ally for the body gussets ; (d ) measure and cut off one
piece of the stuff for the left-arm false hem 13 inches long
and 2 inches wide, and another piece 13 inches long and
14 inches wide for the right-arm hem. You have now
cut out all the different parts of the shirt.
5. Curves.—— Neck Slope. — When the neck gussets are
sewn in, measure down from the top of the false hem on the
front 1 } or 2 inches, and then cut straight across the false
hems, and from 2 to 3 inches beyond them, and curve
round to the gussets .
SCALE FOR A REDUCED AND AN ENLARGED PATTERN

OF THE SAME SHIRT
(a) Reduced size for boy between 7 and 8 years of age.

(b) Enlarged size for boy between 14 and 15 years of age.
1. Body . — a) Length of back, reduced size, 20 inches
>> enlarged 29
(1) front, reduced 18 >
enlarged 27
(c) Breadth of body, reduced ‫ور‬ 18
enlarged 27
(d ) Length of armholes in both sizes = } the
length of the sleeve, or } of the length of
front of the body.
( e) Body flaps in both sizes. Front = the
length of the armholes. Back = the length
of the armholes + 2 or 21 inches, because

the back of a shirt is always longer than
the front.
(f) Length of the shoulders of body = of the
breadth of the material in the body. In
the reduced size the shoulders must be 3
inches long, and in the enlarged size 4.1
inches .
(9) Length of the breast opening down the
front in both sizes = the length of the
collar.
(1) Slope of the front neck in both sizes = { of
the length of the collar.
2. Shoulder -Straps.- (a) Length = the length of the
shoulder of the body + the size of the
neck gusset. In the reduced size the
shoulder-straps must be 6 inches long, and
in the enlarged size 8 inches.
(6) Width = } of its own length.
3. Neck Gussets.—In the reduced size two 3-inch squares,
and in the enlarged size two 31-inch
squares. In the reduced size the neck
gussets are each } the width of the body
of the shirt, and in the enlarged } of the
width of the body .
4. Sleeves.--(a) Length = 3 of the length of the front of
the body, i.e. 12 inches in the reduced
size, and 18 inches in the enlarged. (The
sleeves must be longer, if needed .)
(b) Width = the length in both sizes. When
gussets are used to widen the top of the
sleeves, the width may be a little less than
the length.
5. Gussets to widen the Sleeves.- In the reduced size
two 3-inch squares, i.e. squares & of the
collar length ; and in the enlarged size
two 5 -inch squares, i.e. squares } the
collar length
CHAP . III SCALES OF PROPORTION FOR SHIRTS 49
6. Gussets to strengthen the Seams of Sleeves and

Body. —In the reduced size diagonals of a
2-inch square, and in the enlarged size
diagonals of a 3-inch square.
7. Wristbands.- (a ) Length = } the length of the sleeve.
(6) Width = } its own length.
(c) Wrist opening of sleeves = 1 the length
of the wristband on each side.
8. Collar.— (a) Length = size round the neck. In the
reduced size the length would probably
be 12 inches, and in the enlarged 141, or
15 inches.
(6) Depth = 1 its own length, before being
doubled .
9. Binders.— (a) Length = the length of the armholes +
the width of the binder. In the reduced
size 15 inches long, and in the enlarged
20 inches.
(6) Width = $ of the collar length + } an inch
for turnings.
10. False Hems.—(a) Length = the length of the breast
opening + 11 inches.
(6) Width Left arm = f of the collar length
+ } an inch for turnings. Right arm = }
the width of the left-arm hem.
Notes. — 1. Fig. 32 is a yoke-supported shirt, and lends itself easily

to cutting out by folding, if you study the diagram . 2. The
armholes, sides, and flaps of the body of a shirt, with neck
gussets, can be sloped out in the same manner as in Fig. 32.
The width of the neck will be narrowed if the armholes are
sloped , and the neck portion will not have much fulness to
be gathered. 3. In cutting out a garment like a shirt, or
yoked overall, or nightgown, which have many different
parts, it is a good plan to write the name of each part on a
slip of paper, and sew the slips to each part as you cut it out.
This will prevent mistakes when you are making up the
garment.
E
1ox " . , !1 B
3/4 " G
Ак
Bind
HR37 "
Bindet
N
E
es
34
8")
34
1372 1
14 '
1
Folded
PƏLP
1
16
"
35
Back Front
.
36
"
36 " 14" 35 " x 14 %
F10
AK
С
942 D
Ck . - . --- D
Fig . 32.
A -83 " F 94 " BВ
One Sleeve
1574
"
18 " X 18 "
11712_0
E
5
67
CС Hн 58
*
Wrist
PL
- and
b
872
"4
"
x
Collar
- and
Collar
b
"143
x3/2
1512X
"2/2
K -2 /" *
Folded
Sleeve
Gussets
12.3x2 Yoke
874" -4 " AN
3'x.3"
Body Folded
Gussets
3 "X3"
Fig . 32-continued.
52 NEEDLEWORK PART 1
CHAPTER IV
CONSTRUCTION . - Making up a Chemise, Pair of Drawers,

Pinafore, Overall, Boy's Shirt
STITCHES. — Gathers and Setting-in, Running, Coral and

Feather-stitching, various kinds of Seams, Gussets, False Hems
MAKING UP A WOMAN'S CHEMISE, WITH YOKE

NECKBANDS
1. Seams.- (a ) Fix the gores by tacking the selvedges

together, and then neatly seam ; (b) fix the sides with raw
edges to within 9 or 10 inches of the top folded edge by sew
and-fell seam as follows : turn down one fold on the wrong
Right Side.
FIG. 33.
side of the garment about į inch deep, then fold down on

the wrong side of the opposite edge a fold inch deep, and
turn upwards to the folded edge about of an inch to
form the double fold or fell ; place the folded edges
together, as shown in the diagram (Fig. 33), and tack.
Seam neatly on the right side, without puckering, and
turn to the wrong side, and turn the fell down over the
CHAP. IV GATHERING THE NECK OF CHEMISE 53
raw edge of the one fold of the other side, and fell
neatly.
2. Hem . -Fix a hem at the bottom, on the wrong side,
from 1 to i of an inch deep. You learnt how to fix a
hem when you were a little child in the infant school, so
you will know how to do this properly now.
3. Binders.— (a) Join the binders by placing the two
selvedges together and seaming them for not less than 1
inch, and flatten the seams. You have now made the
four pieces into two, which are false hems or linings ; (6)
place each along the sides of the armholes, with seamed
edges downwards to the wrong side of the garment, and
L -14
Inch
X X X
1
t
FIG . 34.
the parts seamed below the armholes, and resting on the

sew-and-fell seams ; (c) it may be necessary to shape the
outer raw edges like the sides of the garment, if so, you
must cut the binders wider at first ; (d) the raw edges at
the armholes must be even, and one fold must be turned
down on each selvedge side, and at the bottom, below the
seamed portion of each binder ; (e) tack close to the edge,
and be most careful not to pucker the fixing ; the top
raw edges must be quite even as well as the sides ; ( f) fell
the binders neatly on the three sides, and put in a few
extra stitches at the corners for strength. Take out the
tacking stitches.
4. Gathers .-(a) The top part of the garment, front
and back, must be narrowed to the length of the front and
back yoke neckbands ; and the first thing you must do is to

divide the yokes into halves and quarters, and the tops of
the chemise between the binders into halves and quarters,
and mark these divisions by a few cross stitches. The
divisions will enable you to set in the gathers regularly.
(b) Turn down the chemise at the top of an inch on the
right side, and well press the fold, and then turn the
material back ; (c) fasten on close to the binder on the
creased line by a few backstitches very strongly, and then
pass over twice as much as you take up on your needle
(Fig. 34 ) ; ( d ) go on making long stitches on the right side
of the garment, and short ones on the wrong side, drawing
your cotton at intervals so as to push back the gathers or
Fig. 35 .
folds to your right hand, till the other binder is reached ;

(e) take the needle off the cotton , and draw the gathers
up, rather loosely at first, and wind the cotton round a
pin.
5. Stroking.- (a) Begin at the left-hand side near the
pin, and lift up each gather and push it under the left
thumb, which you must move up and down on the gather
to press or stroke it ; (b) go on like this till you reach the
fastening on cotton, then turn the garment round, and
stroke the gathers which lie above the gathering cotton ;
(c) draw the gathering cotton more tightly, and re-stroke
below and above the gathering cotton , pulling the gathers
down towards you in a straight line; (d) gather and stroke
the other side of the garment in the same way (Fig. 35).
6. Making the Yoke Bands.- (a) Place the shoulders
CHAP. IV SETTING IN THE GATHERS 55
together, and run and backstitch 1 of an inch from the

edges ; (b) put the right sides of the shoulder seams to
gether, and the curvedand straight edges of the neck, edge
to edge, and run and backstitch į of an inch from the
edge; (c) then turn one yoke band over the other to hide
the raw edges, and press up the join to form the folded
edges ; (d) turn down one fold of an inch deep along the
selvedges on the wrong side, and then along the armhole
portions of the yoke.
N.B. — The front part may be made open, if liked.
7. Setting in the Gathers.— (a) Place the yoke band
Fig . 36.
on the garment above the binder, in a line with the

gathering cotton,and then take out the pin and spread the
gathers, making the divisions on the band match those on
the garment, and pin at intervals ; (b) tack the yoke to the
garment ; (c) fell that part which is resting on the plain
part of the garment above the binder to the garment only,
and then put your needle under a gather in a slanting
direction close to the gathering cotton , and lift it up to
the edge of the band , then draw your cotton down in a
56 NEEDLEWORK L'ART I
straight direction, and lift up the next gather, and so on,

till all are set in (Fig. 36 ) ; then fell the plain portion
to the garment above the binder ; (d ) the wrong side of
the yoke must be fixed in precisely the same way, and
the gathers set in as neatly, regularly, and particularly as
on the right side. The band on the wrong side must be
felled to the binders only.
N.B. - Both sides of the yoke band , i.e. the back and front of the
garment, must be made alike, if gathers are used both at the
front and the back. The front of the chemise can, however,
be tucked , and then set into the band , and the back only
gathered.
Notes . - 1. Gathers, like pleats, are used to narrow a garment, and at
the same time to give fulness. Gathers at the neck of a
chemise gives fulness below the band , while at the legs of a
pair of drawers the fulness is above the bands. The fulness
is below neck bands and above wristbands. 2. The gathering
cotton must be very strong, and a little longer than the part to
be gathered .
8. Tucks.—Tucks are used on the fronts of chemises,
pinafores, overalls, nightgowns, blouses, and bodices ( 1 ) to
narrow these garments, instead of gathers ; and (2 ) at the
bottom of frocks, pinafores, petticoats, drawers, etc., to
shorten ; and (3) to hide a join in a garment that has been
mended, e.g. by putting a new piece of material at the
bottom of a petticoat or skirt, or in widening a child's
frock body. Method .-— (a) Crease the front of the chemise
down the centre, and then, with a cardboard inch measure,
measure from the crease on either side 1 of an inch, and
put in a pin ; this space is for the tuck to lie upon ; (b)
measure away from the pin } inch to the left, and put in
a pin, then fold this 1 inch into halves, so that the tuck
( or folded material) is inch deep ; ( c) press the top edge
well, and take your measure, and prove by it that the
tuck is 4 inch deep all its length, which in the front of
the chemise should not be more than 4 inches ; (d) fold
the tuck towards the centre crease, and press it well to
leave a crease on its under part 4 inch from the folded
CHAP. IV TUCKING THE FRONT OF CHEMISE 57
edge ; (e) tack the tuck along the crease for the length
given above; ( f) then measure to the right of the centre
crease 1 inch, and mark by a pin, then 1 an inch, and make
this half into double material 4 inch deep, and fold it
towards the centre crease, and press well ; tack along the
crease to the same length as the tuck to the left of the
centre ; (9) run these tucks on the under part close to the
tacking cotton, fastening on and off very strongly ; take
out tacking cotton, and press down the tucks firmly and
evenly ; (h) measure away from each tuck \ of an inch
for the space between them, then of an inch for the
F
Ін
E D
С wwwwwwwwwwwww АВ
x
FIG. 37.
tuck to lie upon, and then 1 an inch for the double

material 4 inch deep to form the tuck (Fig. 37). Make
each tuck as you near the binders 4 inch shorter than the
preceding one, so as to graduate the length towards the
shoulders. This must always be done in the fronts of
garments. You must constantly measure the garment by
the length of the band, while you are tucking the front, in
order to make them match in length. The band must be
felled on the right and the wrong sides over the tucks,
inch below the top edge of the garment.
Note .-Tucks make the front of a garment prettier and warmer
than gathers. Tucks must always be folded on the right side
of a garment. Tucks vary in depth , and the spaces between
them vary with the depth of the tuck . If the tucks are all
1 inch deep, 4 inch must be left between each ; if they are

very narrow, the depth of the tuck may be left between each ;
if wide, 4 or ļ or } of the depth of the tuck. Tucks are often
made in sets, with a wide space between the sets, and they
are also made without spaces between them , the folded edge
of the tuck just touching the running stitches of the preceding
one . When wide spaces are left between sets of tucks, feather
stitch is worked in rows to ornament the spaces. Feather
stitch is also frequently used on flannel garments to fasten
down the tuck, and is worked on its upper side.
9. Running Stitch . - Fasten on by a few backstitches
FIG. 38.
on the under part of the tuck, and then pass over a

small piece of the material, and take up a little bit more
than this piece on your needle, pushing the needle well
through the double material. The stitches must be seen
distinctly on the upper as well as under sides of the tucks.
The rule for running is “ take up two threads and pass
over two threads,” but it is a rule that cannot be kept if
the running is to be regular and strong. Fig. 38 shows
the running stitch, and tucks fixed and run above a hem.
10. Stitching. - The neck edge of the yokes should be
stitched or feather-stitched & of an inch below the top
edges. They may also be stitched or feather-stitched in
rows along the bands, for ornamentation .
CHAP. IV MAKING UP FIRST-SIZE DRAWERS 59
11. Sleeves.—The slanting lines of the sleeves (Fig.

22 ) must be fixed to match the seams in the body of
chemise, i.e. by sew -and -fell. The outer armhole must be
finished off by a hem about 1 inch deep, and the inner
armhole must be placed between the chemise and its
binder and the yoke and its lining, the seam of the arm
hole matching the seam in the chemise, and lying quite flat
between the double material . Fell the right side of the
garment and the yoke to the sleeve, and then turn to the
wrong side, and fell the binders and the linings of the yoke
over the stitches on the sleeve. This part of the con
struction needs skill and care, to prevent any puckering.
The edges of the hems of the sleeves can be stitched or
feather - stitched. The garment and the yoke can be
stitched to the sleeves instead of felled .
Note.-- If the garment is cut down the front, the yoke needs
more fixing and sewing, and a front fold must be placed
on the garment. The above is more quickly made, and is
a very useful garment, and no buttons or holes are required.
12. Trimming.—The edges of the neck and sleeves
can be trimmed with crochet edging or everlasting edging ;
crochet edging must be sewn on a little full, like lace
on the infant's shirt, and the everlasting edging must be
felled by its webbing on the wrong side.
MAKING UP FIRST-SIZE DRAWERS

Materials needed .-- The garment and band (Fig. 26 ),
tape strings, the length of the waistband plus 4 yard, and
yard of tape for strings at G, sewing needle, and cotton ,
and tacking cotton, and trimming.
THE LESSON
Construction .- (a ) D to H is the waist portion of the

garment, and must be gathered or pleated from D to I,
which gives the fulness to the back of the garment ;
(6) line all the edges of the garment, except D to H, with

narrow false hems cut on the cross ſ of an inch wide,
when all turnings are taken, and neatly hem.
N.B .-- If embroidery is used to trim the legs, place it between
the false hems and the garment, rather full, from E to F. If
whipped frills are used as trimming, sew these to the edges of
the curves E to F.
(c) Sew a tape string 2 inches long at point C, and stitch

it to the garment, on the right side, 21 inches inwards ;
( d ) work two buttonholes, one at each corner E, placing
a piece of broad tape on the single calico, so that the
hole may be worked on double material, and two buttons
at each corner F ; (e) sew two tape strings 9 inches long
at each corner G ; ( f) make the band in the usual way,
and stitch it at the top edge, and stitch two parallel rows
across it in the middle to form a string casing, leaving
this portion of the ends of the band unfastened, to allow
of draw strings.
N.B.—This garment can be easily put on and taken off. The
strings at corner G are passed through the loop of tape at
corner C.
CONSTRUCTION OF CHILDREN'S FLANNEL OR FLANNELETTE

DRAWERS (Fig. 27)
1. Seams.—As for flannel petticoat, or fixed for counter
hem , and stitched at each edge, on the right side of the
garment.
2. Hip - openings.- (a) These may be finished off by
hems taken from the garment itself, herring-boned, and
strengthened at the end of the slit by a tape or gusset ;
()) or by false hems of flannel, or sateen, or turkey twill ;
like the waistbands, which all match the flannel or flannel
ette in colour.
3. Waistbands.— (a) These can be made of the flannel
or flannelette, but are better if made of good sateen ,
turkey twill, or unbleached calico ; (b) the material of
CHAP. IV CHILDREN'S FLANNEL DRAWERS 61
garment must be managed as described above, only instead

of gathering, the fulness must be pleated into the bands,
and the bands properly matched in the divisions, and
stitched at the edge over the pleats on the right side, and
felled on the wrong side.
N.B. - Or felled on both sides, care being taken to prevent

puckering the bands .
4. Leg -bands.- (a) The edge of the legs may be scalloped
Hip g
Openin
FIG. 39.
and worked with embroidery stitch ; (6) from 1 to 2 inches

from the edge of the scallops, pleat the fulness to the length
of the leg-band which is required, leaving a plain piece on
62 NEEDLE PART I
WORK
either side of the leg seam, to prevent the garment dragging
at the knee ; (c) tack the pleats, then lay over them, on
the right side, the leg - band, which must be made of
single material, the raw edges being turned in once ; (d)
tack the band as evenly as possible, and stitch, or fell it,
on either side to the leg ; (e) ornament the leg-bands by a
row of feather-stitch along the middle of them (Fig. 39).
N.B. - 1. If the embroidery forms a part of the leg, then the legs
must be cut a little longer at first.
2. If, however, the fulness is pleated into a band , the trimming
may be flannel embroidery, placed between the edges of band.
This is a longer method , and more bulky than that given above,
and the legs must be cut shorter at first.
5. Buttonholes. — These would be the same in number,
and would be placed in the same position , as in a calico
garment.
Note.— Open Drawers. — Girls generally begin to wear open
drawers when they are about nine or ten years old . Open
drawers are not cut down at the hips, and the band is made
all in one piece of the material. The backs and fronts of the
legs are not joined together, but hemmed separately , or lined
with false hems. The fronts , in children's sizes , are seamed
together for about 2 inches, in women's sizes a little more . A
button and buttonhole are placed at the ends of the bands, or
two tape strings. The legs may be constructed as for closed
drawers, i.e. as knickerbockers with bands, or they may be 1
made up with a deep hem , and narrow tucks above . The
drawers are gathered or pleated into the bands at the waist
and legs. Women's drawers are very seldom made up as
closed , but nearly always as open.
6. Construction of Calico Drawers.—(a) Join the legs
by sew-and-fell, run-and-fell, or counter -fell seams ; (b) hem
the backs and fronts of the legs separately, or line with
false hems cut on the cross ; (c) join the front hems of
the legs at the top by a seam about 2 or 21 inches long ;
(d ) gather or pleat the legs into one waistband, taking
care to put most of the fulness to the middle of each
leg ; (e) gather or pleat the legs into knee-bands, being
(
CHAP. IV MAKING UP A SIMPLE PINAFORE 63
careful to leave a portion plain on either side of the leg

seams ; ( f) or, fix a hem and a few narrow tucks ; (g) sew
on two tape strings, or a button, and work a buttonhole.
If closed drawers, put straight false hems at the hip
openings, or narrow hems, and gussets at the end of the
slits. (See lessons on False Hems, and Gussets. )
MAKING UP A SIMPLE PINAFORE (Fig. 29 )

Method .— (a) Join the shoulders by sew-and-fell, run
FIG. 40 .
and -fell, or counter-fell ; (b) fix a hem from 1 to 12 inches

deep at the bottom ; (c) run two tucks above the hem, if
you can afford the length of material ; (d) fix narrow hems
at the armholes, and strengthen the ends of the shoulder
seams and armhole slits by narrow-shaped tapes (see
lesson on Strengthening Tapes) ; (e) fix a hem 1 inch
deep at the neck ; ( f ) run a narrow tape through this
hem, and stitch two parallel rows on the right side of the
neck hem in the centre, to prevent the tape being drawn
out ; (g) finish off the ends of the tape by very narrow
hems, or by a buttonhole stitch ; (b) trim the armholes
61 NEEDLEWORK PARTI
with crochet edging, or everlasting edging, or by a pleated

frill of the same material ; (i) sew on two or more tape
strings at the edges of the backs, the first set being 4 of
the depth of the pinafore from the top.
Note.-- Fig. 40 gives the appearance of Fig. 30 when made up.
The waistband and strings are more generally used for boys'
pinafores than for girls '. If the pinafore is made of muslin ,
join the sides by mantua -maker's hem . ( See lesson on this. )
JOINING MATERIAL ON THE STRAIGHT, ON THE CROSS ,

AND ON THE CURVE , BY VARIOUS KINDS OF SEAMS
MANTUA-MAKER'S HEM
Use. — Mantua-maker's hem is a quick and useful method

of joining the sloped sides of muslin and print pinafores,
Hem skirts of white calico, and
cloth petticoats, bags, and
Ist Fold sleeves that have no
linings.
Wrong Side Method. (a) Turn
garment to the wrong
the
FIG . 41 . side, and place one raw
edge a little below the
other ; (b) turn the upper edge over the lower one twice,
as in fixing a hem , and hem through all the thicknesses .
The stitches are only seen on the wrong side (Fig. 41 ).
BODICE SEAMS
Use.—(a) To join the slanting and curved sides of a

calico bodice, frock bodices, skirts of petticoats and dresses,
watch and dress pockets ; (v) for materials that fray very
much, e.g. serge, which is not strongly enough protected
by overcasting
Method.— (a ) Place the two raw edges quite even on
the right side, and tack about 1 of an inch deep ; (6)
CHAP. IV COUNTER- HEMMING OR FELLING 65
run and backstitch neatly and firmly just above the

tacking thread ; (c) take out the tacking thread, and turn
the garment to the wrong side ; ( d) press up the edge that
Wrong Side
FIG. 42.
has been fastened by the run-and-backstitch, and tack just

below the raw edges, which are on the wrong side, i.e.
about 4 of an inch deep ; (e) run and backstitch or
machine -stitch along by the tacking threads. The stitches
are not seen on the right side (Fig. 42).
COUNTER -HEMMING OR FELLING
Use. - For joining material on the straight and the

curve, e.g. sides of pinafores, shifts, shirts, shoulders of
infants ' first shirts, and of children's pinafores. Counter
hem is a good way of fixing the seams of materials where
sew-and-fell or run-and-fell would be too thick, e.g. flannel,
flannelette, as well as in fine and semi-transparent materials
like muslin .
Method.— (a) Place the two wrong sides of the material
together edge to edge ; (b) turn down towards you } or
or of an inch on the right side of the material ; (c)
F
move the piece lying uppermost away, and you will find
the turning on this is on the right side of the stuff, and
the turning on the other edge is on the wrong side ; (nl)
place the edge which has the turning on the right side
under the other edge, so that the raw edges are completely
hidden and yet not rolled ; ( c) tack along the centre ; ( f)
hem the fold on the right side, and then the fold on the
wrong side. This makes a very flat seam. The edges can
be stitched on the right side instead of being hemmed .
RUN -AND -FELL SEAM
REMARKS
1. A run-and-fell seam is used instead of a sew-and-fell,

and, if it is properly worked, it is quite as strong and neat
as a sew -and-fell seam.
2. A run -and - fell seam is more quickly fixed and worked
than a sew -and-fell, and it is very suitable for fine soft
materials such as muslin, fine calico, and silk.
3. A run -and -fell, like a sew-and-fell, is placed at the
side seams of garments, and also across the woof, as when
repairing a garment, by putting a new top or bottom
to it .
Materials needed. —Two pieces of calico or muslin,
sewing needle, tacking and sewing cotton, pins.
THE LESSON
1. The Fixing:-(a ) Find the selvedges of the two

pieces, and mark by pins ; (b) take one piece and turn
down along one of the selvedge sides a fold 4 of an inch
deep, and press the folded edge firmly and evenly ; ( c)
turn this fold upwards, so that you can see the crease ; ( d )
take the second piece of material, and lay one of its sel
vedge sides just below the crease, and parallel to it ; (e) turn
the fold of the first strip down over the second piece, which
CHAP. IV RUN -AND- FELL SEAM 67
is lying above it, without rolling its raw edge ; (f ) press

this fold down evenly and firmly (Fig. 43).
2. Tacking.- (a) Begin to tack at the right-hand side,
just above the raw edge of the fold (Fig. 43 ) ; (b) you must
tack quite through the three thicknesses very neatly and
securely.
3. The Stitches. - Running.- (a) Begin to run at the
right-hand side just below the raw edge of the fold ; (6) fasten
on as for gathering stitch, and proceed with the running
Wrong Side
FIG . 43
stitch as you were taught when running tucks (see Lesson

on Tucks, and Diagram of Running, Fig. 43) ; (c) you
must make a backstitch at certain regular distances in the
running, in order to make the seam firm and secure.
Note. If the running is not taken quite through the double
material, and if it is carelessly done, there will be gaps in the
seam .
( d ) When you have finished the running stitch, fasten off

by a few backstitches neatly and securely.
Felling.– (a) Turn the fell down smoothly and evenly
to hide the raw edge, and draw down the underlying
material, and press the folded edge well on the right side,
in order to flatten it, and to prevent wrinkles at the edge
of the seam ; (b) fasten on strongly and neatly, and fell
the fold as neatly and regularly as possible.
Fold of Material
Right Side
FIG . 44.
Note. --Both the seam and the fell must be beautifully flat and
straight, and there must be no slip stitches in the running or
the felling. Fig. 44 gives the finished appearance on the
right side.
FALSE HEMS
A. ON THE STRAIGHT
Use.—To form a lining as well as a hem, where a

narrow hem would not be a sufficient protection to the
edges.
Method . — a) Compare the length of the false hems
with the length of the slit on the garment, adding to this
length 1 or 2 inches for ( 1 ) lining the garment below
the slit ; ( 2 ) for a turning to the hem, and for ( 3) shaping
at the waist (drawers) or neck (chemise, nightgown,
shirt) ; (b) the false hems should be cut into two separate
CHAP. IV FALSE HEMS 69
strips, and should not be less than of an inch wide

when fully completed. To allow of turnings for the
hem and join at the end of the slit, each strip must be
14 inches wide for hip opening of drawers, and wider for
the front of chemises, nightgowns, and shirts if neces
sary ; (c) place the two raw selvedges together quite
evenly, and tack 14 inches at one end, about 1 or 1 inch
from the edge ; (d ) run and backstitch this 1 } inches, or,
as it is better to open this seam, stitch entirely for the
sake of strength ; (e) open the seam , and well Hatten it ;
(f ) fix the hems to the slit in the garment thus :-place
the right side of the garment uppermost, and then lay
the right side of the false hem on the garment, placing
the joined portion of the false hems well below the slit,
with all the edges quite even ; tack the same distance
from the edge to match the join in the false hems ; run
and backstitch the false hems to the sides of the slit, and
as far as the end of it, without any puckering ; cut the
false hems at the top to match the curves or slopes in the
garment; turn the false hems over to the wrong side of
the garment, pressing the joined edges of the slit, and
drawing over to the wrong side a small portion of the
garment so as to hide the join ; tack the edges of the
slit ; turn down folds on the selvedge sides of the hems
first, and then a fold at the bottom, and pull the false
hems into a straight position, being careful to see that
both are the same in width ; tack the hems quite straight
and even , and then neatly hem on the wrong side, or
machine-stitch on the right side. Finish off the end of
the slit by a few buttonhole stitches, drawing any fulness
on the garment towards this part. Take out the tacking
cotton , and press the hems, to make them lie flat and
smooth .
B. ON THE CROSS
Method.- 1 . Cutting the Material on the Cross.- (a ) Take

as large a square of calico as you can get from the neck
sloping of the chemise, and fold it diagonally from corner

to corner ; (b) cut along this diagonal crease.
2. Depth of Crosswise Hems.-(a) When velvet, or crape,
satin, or plush, is bought already cut on the cross, it is
measured along the selvedges ; but in taking what is
wanted from the crosswise stuff for trimmings, it must
always be remembered that the depth of the material is
less from its slanting edge inwards, than it is along its
selvedges ; (b) the hem of a woman's chemise should be 3
of an inch deep, when finished, and 1 an inch more must
be allowed for turnings to the hem, and for joining it to
the garment, so that the depth of crosswise hem must be
14 inches ; (c) measure along the selvedges 2 inches, or
from the crosswise edge of material inwards 14 inches,
crease this evenly, and, as more than one piece is likely
to be needed, fold the required depths one above the
other, to prevent waste of time in re-measuring ; (d) lay
your left hand on the material, and cut along the creased
edges very carefully.
3. Joining the Crosswise Material .-— (a) Compare the
crosswise lengths of material, and find out if the threads
are all going in the same direction, either all to the right
or all to the left ; (6)
Open Seam make ends match, by cut
ting away any portions of
material which prevent
Fig . 45.
matching ; (c) face the
two strips of material,
and put the long points to the short ones, so as to keep
the depth of both pieces the same when joined (Fig. 45) ;
(d ) run and backstitch the strips together of an inch
below the edges ; (e) turn back the upper strip, and press
the seam (Fig. 45).
N.B. -In calico the seam should not be opened , but in velvet,
crape, cloth, the join should be flattened, damped, and then
pressed with a hot iron .
CHAP. IV CONSTRUCTION OF AN OVERALL 71
CONSTRUCTION OF AN OVERALL
(WITH SLEEVES)
Materials needed.—The front and two backs of the
skirt ; the front and two back yokes, with the linings
of the same, either in calico or in the same material ;
two sleeves and two cuffs ; needle, sewing and tacking
cotton, pins. ( Trimming for the neck and the cuffs. )
THE LESSON
1. Joining the Front Breadth to the Backs of the

Skirt. — Seams. — Join the sides of the backs to the front,
either by sew-and-fell or run-and-fell seam, or by counter
fell (or mantua-maker's hem), if the material is thin, like
muslin . A mantua -maker's hem is made as follows :
face the right sides of the material, and hold the wrong
side towards you ; begin at the top of the seam at IJ, and
put one raw edge į of an inch below the other ; then turn
down this į of an inch over the raw edge of the side lying
uppermost, and then turn the threefold material down
again for £ of an inch, thus forming a hem. Hem through
all the thicknesses of the material. ( The stitches will only
be seen on the wrong side. )
2. Hems.— (a) Fix a hem, i or 1 inch wide, on the
right-arm side of the placket, from A to K, and a
narrower hem on the left-arm side, from A to K ; (b) lap
the wide hem over the narrow one, and stitch two rows
across the bottom of the placket at K ; (c) fix a rather
wide hem at the bottom, being careful to match the seams
on the hems with the side seams. The bottom hem
should be 11 inches wide, at least.
3. The Yokes. — If unlined .- (a) Face the right sides
of the material, and put the shoulders of the backs to the
shoulders of the front, and join by run -and -fell or counter
fell seam ; (b) turn up one fold along the straight edges
at the bottom of the front and the backs.
If lined with Calico, or the same Material.-—(a) Face the
right sides of the material, and put the shoulder slopes
of the back yokes to the shoulderslopes of the front yoke,
edge to edge, and run and backstitch in an even line 1 of
an inch below the edges ; (b) open and flatten the
seams ; ( c) join the shoulders of the lining in the same
way, and flatten the seams ; (d) place the right side of the
lining to the right side of the yokes, shoulder seam to
shoulder seam, and put in pins; (e) then place the
straight edges of the backs together, and tack the lining
to the backs and neck ; (f ) run and backstitch of an
inch from the edges along the straight sides of one back,
then round the neck, and down the second back ; (9) take
out the tacking cotton, and lay the lining over to the
wrong side of the yokes, being careful to push up the top
corners, where the sides of the backs form the beginning
of the neck .
V.B. - If the lining is of the same material as the garment, and

has a pattern on it, the pattern side must be the outer part
on the wrong sides of the yokes.
(1) Turn down 1 -inch folds along the bottom straight
edges of the front and back yokes, and round the arm
holes ; (i) tack the yoke to the lining across the shoulder
seams, round the armholes, and at the bottom sides, to
keep it flat and smooth and in place. The yoke is now
ready for fixing on the skirt.
4. Gathering the Top of Skirt. The Front and
Backs.- (a) If the yokes are not lined, you must turn
down a fold 1 inch deep on to the right side of the
material ; ( b) measure away from each side of the armhole
on the front, and on each back at least 1 inch, and mark
by a pin ; ( c) then fold the front into halves and quarters
between these pins, and the backs into halves and quarters
between the hems and the pins, and mark these divisions
by a few backstitches.
CHAP . IV CONSTRUCTION OF AN OVERALL 73
N.B. - 1. The piece measured off on either side of the armholes

must be kept plain. 2. If the yokes are lined, you must not
turn down a fold along the top edges of the skirt, because
these edges would be placed between the yoke and its lining.
(d) Gather the top of the front and the backs just '
below the turned-down fold, or 4 of an inch from the
top raw edge. Be careful not to gather across the hems
of the back. Stroke the gathers below and above the
gathering cotton.
5. Fixing the Yokes to the Skirt, and Setting in
the Gathers. (a) Fold the yokes into halves and
quarters, and mark the divisions by a few backstitches ;
(6) if the yokes are unlined place them over the turnings
on the top of the skirt, so that the folded edges of the
yokes lie just above the gathering cotton ; but if the
yokes are lined, then place the raw edges of the skirt
between them and the lining, matching the divisions of
the halves and quarters, and letting the edges of the
yokes lie above the gathering cotton ; (c) set in the
gathers neatly and correctly, on the right side, and then
on the wrong side.
6. Making the Sleeves.— (a) Join the sides of the
sleeves either by run -and -fell or counter-fell seam, or by a
mantua-maker's hem ; (b) measure off on either side of the
seam at the wrist 1 inch, and keep this quite plain ; (c)
fold the wrist portion of the sleeve into halves and
quarters, and mark by a few backstitches ; (d ) gather
the sleeve and neatly stroke below and above the gathers;
(e) fold the upper arm of the sleeve from L to within 1
inch of E into halves and quarters ; (f ) turn down a fold
on to the right side of the sleeve and all round the top
portion of it ; (9) gather from 2 inches above E on the
upper arm , as far as K, and neatly stroke.
7. Making the Closed Cuff .—(a) Put the edges re
presented by A, B, C, D in Fig. 31 together, with the
wrong side of the material towards you, and run and back
stitch for ļ of an inch below the edges; (b) fold the cuff
into halves, so that all the raw edges are hidden, and it is
3 inches deep, and see that the seams lie one above the
other ; (c) turn down a fold 4 inch deep all round the
cuff, and measure off on either side of the seam 1 inch ;
(d) fold the cuff into halves and quarters, and mark by a
few backstitches.
8. Setting the Gathers into the Cuff.— (a ) Place
the join in the cuff to the side seam of the sleeve, and
then put the raw edges of the sleeve at GH between the
edges of the cuff, pinning the plain portion to the cuff, on
either side of the seam ; (b) then match the halves and
quarters, and pin the cuff to the sleeve, regulating the
gathers as you tack ; ( e) set in the gathers neatly and
accurately on the right side of the cuff, and then on
the wrong side. Be most careful not to pucker the
gathers.
9. Setting in the Sleeves at the Armholes.—(a) If
the yokes are not lined, the one fold, which you have
turned down on to the wrong side on the yokes, and the
armholes of the skirt, will , with the turnings on the
sleeves, form counter-fells ; (b) place the seam in the
sleeve to the seam at the side of the skirt, and the sleeve
under the garment, so that all the raw edges are hidden
both on the right and wrong sides ; tack the plain por
tions of the sleeve on either side of its own seam to the
armhole portions of the skirt ; (c) fold the front and back
yokes into halves and quarters, to match the divisions in that
part of the sleeve, which is gathered ; (d ) put the gathers to
the shoulder seam, and to the front and back of the yoke,
and regulate them as you tack the yokes to the sleeve ;
(e) set the gathers in accurately, and fell the rest of the
garment to the sleeve, on the right side, being careful to
fasten the seam very strongly and neatly ; ( f ) turn the
wrong side of the garment towards you, and fell the
sleeve to the garment all round, taking care to make
small pleats at the top of the sleeve, and to fasten these
down while felling, and to fell the seam in the sleeve
neatly and strongly to the seam in the garment ; (g) if
the yokes are lined, you must stitch near the edges of the
CHAP . IV SHIRT WITH SHOULDER-STRAPS 75
yokes, which you have previously fixed and tacked to

gether, and then set in the sleeve as described above, fell
ing the gathered portion of the sleeve to the linings of
the yokes. The setting in of the gathers will be a little
more difficult to do, because the edges of the yokes will
be double. The other sleeve must be set in, in the same
way.
10. Trimming the Neck and Cuffs.—a ) If you trim
the neck of the garment with wide Everlasting Edging,
you must place the wrong side of the trimming to the
wrong side of the garment, near the edge of the neck,
and put in small pleats to make the trimming full, and
tack neatly ; (b) turn down narrow hems at the ends of
the trimming, which really forms a turned -down collar,
and hem neatly, being careful to seam the corners ; (c)
fell the collar to the linings of the yoke ; (d) then turn
the collar over the edge of the neck, and let it lie on the
right side of the yoke ; (e) run or stitch the trimming on
the right side to the yoke, just below the edge of the
neck ; (f) the trimming for the cuffs must be joined by
placing the two raw edges together, and then fastened by
a run -and -backstitched seam ; (g) place the wrong side to
the wrong side of the cuff, and put in small pleats to give
a little fulness, then tack and fell on the wrong side, just
below the edge of the cuff ; (h) turn the trimming back
over the cuff on the right side, and either run or stitch it
to the cuff, just below the edge, being careful to pleat the
fulness neatly .
Notes. — 1. If the trimming is embroidery, you must turn down
a fold of the plain portion of the stuff to hide the raw edge.
Everlasting Edging has a tight self edge on the webbing
attached to it. 2. Trimming makes the garment more expen
sive, and takes more time in the making up, but it improves
the appearance of the overall.
CONSTRUCTION OF A SHIRT WITH SHOULDER -STRAPS

(Fig. 46 )
1. Seams in the Body.- (a ) If one side has selvedges,
seam these together for about one-third of the length of

the garment. (The middle third will be the side seams.)
(b) Fix the side with the raw edges, either for sew -and
fell, run -and -fell, or counter-fell seam. If the material is
flannel, you must join the sides by run -and -backstitch and
herring-bone stitch.
2. Hems.— (a) Fix narrow hems down the body open
ing, and hem , or fix one fold and herring-bone, if the
material is flannel; (b) fix narrow hems along the bottom,
to match the hems on the opening .
3. Body Gussets.—Set in triangular gussets, with a
hexagon lining, at the end of each seam, so that you will
carry into practice on a garment the gusset-making you
may have previously learnt on strips of calico. (See
Lesson on Gusset -making.)
4. Binders.— (a) Fold the binders in half, so that they
are 8.3 inches long, and join the raw edges together for a
little more than an inch by run-and-backstitch, and press
the join flat and smooth ; (b) place the binder with the
crease in its folded edge to the shoulder crease, and with the
wrong side of its seam to the wrong side of the side seam of
the body ; ( be careful to fix the binder quite straight
on the garment ; ( d ) turn down a fold 1 inch deep on
the selvedge side of the binder lying on the garment, and
fix a fold of the same depth across the bottom of the
binder, being careful to press the turning well, where the
binder is joined at the end of the armhole ; (e) turn down
a fold on the binder at the armhole edge, and another fold
on the armhole of the body, and tack the binder to the
body 4 of an inch from the edges of the armhole, and then
tack the binder along its folded inner edge to the gar
ment ; ( f ) fell the binder all round to the garment. If
calico binders are put round the armholes of flannel and
flannelette garments, they must be fixed and sewn to the
garment in this way. Put the outer binder on in pre
cisely the same manner, and be most particular with the
fixing, to prevent puckering.
5. Neck Gussets.— ( a) Fix narrow folds on the squares
CHAP . IV SHIRT WITH SHOULDER-STRAPS 77
which have been cut for the neck gussets, making the
first folds on the selvedges, and the second across the
woof ; (b) fold the squares corner to corner and well
crease them diagonally ; (c) place a corner of the square
well in on the shoulder crease, and pin it to the garment ;
(d ) tack the two sides of the square from this corner, so
that the gusset is now a triangle in shape ; (e) stitch along
the two sides of the gusset ; ( f) turn to the wrong side,
and place the other triangle, with one corner and the
crease across it on the shoulder crease, and fell the gusset
to the garment, covering the stitches which show through
from the right side. Great care and nicety are required
in fixing the neck gussets. The other gusset must be set
in, in the same way .
6. The Shoulder -Straps. — (a) Fix folds along the
selvedges of the shoulder-straps ; (b) fold them in halves
along their length, and well press the folds ; (c) place the
crease in them on the creases at the top folded edge of
the garment, along the shoulders, and pin them to the
garment ; (d) put the edges of the woof portion of the
straps to edges of the garment, after you have turned
down a fold, to match the turnings on the armholes, and
the raw edges to the folded edge of the gussets ; (e) tack
along the selvedges of the straps, being careful to tack
them to the garment only, and not through the binders
as well as the garment ; (f) stitch the shoulder-straps to
the garment and the gussets, being most careful to keep
the crease in the straps in a line with the creases in the
shoulders and gussets ; (9) take out the pins and tacking
cotton .
7. False Hems on the Breast Opening of the Front.
(a) Place the selvedge of the narrow false hem along the
selvedge of the right-arm side of the breast opening, edge
to edge at the neck and side of the opening, on the right
side of the garment ; (b) put in pins ; (c) take your scissors
and cut across the woof of the front of the shirt as far as
the width of this hem ; (« 1) tack the false hem of an
inch from the edges to the garment, and then run-and
78 NEEDLEWORK PART 1
backstitch along by the tacking cotton from the bottom

of the opening to the neck ; (e) turn the false hem to the
wrong side of the garment, and fix a fold along the other
selvedge side, and at the bottom across the woof; ( f ) tack
the fold to the garment, and then hem it, as well as the
portion which goes down below the breast opening, on the
wrong side of the garment ; (9) place the wider false hem
with its selvedge to the left- arm opening of the front,
edge to edge, and on the wrong side of the garment, and
put in pins ; (h) cut along the woof at the bottom of the
opening towards the left armhole the width of this hem.
This cut piece of the body must be made into a box pleat
at the end of the breast opening, after the false hems are
finished . (i) Tack the false hem to the garment from
the end of the opening to the neck 4 of an inch from the
edges ; ( i) then run -and -backstitch the false hem to the
garment ; (k) take out the tacking cotton, and fold the
false hem over to the right side of the garment ; (1) fix a
fold on the other selvedge side, and across the woof at the
bottom of false hem, and tack the hem to the garment,
being careful to let a portion of the hem form the outer
edge of the opening ; (m ) stitch the edge of the fold to
the garment, and then stitch the outer edge to make it
look like a pleat ; ( n) take up the cut material at the
bottom of the opening at the centre crease on the front of
the shirt, and pleat it to the right and tothe left, to form
a box pleat, and then tack across the pleat ; (o) lap the
left-arm hem over the right-arm hem, so that the centre
of the hem lies on the centre crease in the garment, and
then pin it in position, and put in a few tacking stitches
to keep it firmly in place, and take out the pins. The
false hem will be longer than the breast opening, and will
cover that part of the garment which you cut to form the
box pleat, but it will not be wide enough to cover this
pleat across the width, so after you have felled the false
hem to the garment, you must further strengthen the end
of the opening by putting a band of the material well
over the pleats on each side, and stitch it to the garment,
CHAP. IV SHIRT WITH SHOULDER- STRAPS 79
and a straight strengthening tape on the wrong side to

hide any raw edges, and to make this part of the garment
very neat and strong.
8. Slope of the Front Neck. Take your scissors
and curve out the neck from the gussets to the false henis
for 1 } inches below the top of the false hems, keeping this
slope straight across the hems and a little way beyond them,
and then curving round to the gussets. You can slope
out more than 11 inches, if you think it will be necessary.
9. The Collar.—(a) Turn down 4-inch folds along the
selvedges and woof edges, and fold the collar in half
along its length ; (6) tack the ends, and then seam them ;
(c) fold the band into quarters down its depth, and well
press the folds; ( d) gather the neck from false hem to
false hem, and quite through the shoulder-straps and the
gussets under them, being careful to divide the parts
gathered into halves and quarters for the better regulat
ing of the gathers ; (e) stroke the gathers ; (f ) fix on the
collar by placing one-fourth of each end to each side of the
front neck, as far as the gusset, then two-fourths from the
beginning of one gusset to the end of the other. You
may sometimes be obliged to put less than two- fourths of
the collar to the shoulders and neck gussets, and a little
more than one-fourth to each side of the neck in the front
of the shirt . (g) When you have set the gathers in both
on the right and wrong sides, you must stitch the collar
about ļof an inch from the edges at the ends, and along
the top, on the wrong side of the garment, so that when
the collar is turned down on to the right side of the shirt
the stitching will be seen .
10. Buttons and Buttonholes on the Front.— Cut a
buttonhole the selvedge way of the collar, just above the
left-arm false hem, and three buttonholes on the hem, the
selvedge way of the stuff, at equal distances apart, to fit
the buttons, which you must sew on the right-arm side of
the collar and false hem, exactly opposite the buttonholes.
The corners of the buttonholes must be either both round
or both braced. (See Lesson on Buttonholes.)
11. Sleeves, and Wristbands, and Gussets. — (a)

Measure along the two open selvedges of the sleeves half
the length of the wristband for the wrist opening of the
sleeves, and mark by pins ; (b) fix the rest of the sleeve
for sew-and-fell or run-and -fell, or a flannel seam, to match
the side seams of the body ; (c) then take the square sleeve
gussets, and fix a double fold on one selvedge side, and a
single fold on the other, and place the double fold to the
single fold in the sleeve, and the single fold of the gusset
to the double fold on the sleeve, so that the square gusset
is set in diagonally, and fasten by pins ; (d) tack the seam
in the sleeve from the pins that indicate the wrist open
ing, along one side, including the gusset, then tack the
other side of the gusset to the sleeve. Fix both sleeves
in the same way. Flannel gussets must be set in by
counter -fell fixing. (e) Fix narrow hems at the wrist
openings ; ( ) set in triangular gussets at the end of the
seams in the same way as at the end of the body seams.
(See Lesson on this kind of Gusset-making. )
Note . - You will have learnt how to make three kinds of gussets
in this style of shirt : ( 1 ) triangular with hexagon -shaped
lining at the end of the seams, (2) double triangles in the
neck gussets, (3) and square gussets, set in as triangles at the
tops of the sleeves, to widen them . Sleeves widened by
gussets are called old -fashioned, but they are very useful and
economical, and strong for working -men and lads' dayshirts,
as well as nightshirts.
(9) Fix the wristbands in the same way as the collar,
and seam the ends, and stitch of an inch from all the
edges, being careful to leave the bottom edges open to
admit the sleeve, when it has been gathered ; (h) fold the
wristbands into thirds down the depth, and mark by pins ;
(i) place one-third of the wristband at each end on to the
sleeve from either side of the wrist opening, then draw
out the sleeve at its centre crease , and fold it into halves
when it is double, and this will give you four divisions ;
(j) fold the middle third of the wristband into halves and
quarters ; (b ) gather the sleeve from the one-third of the
CHAP. IV SHIRT WITH SHOULDER-STRAPS 81
wristband to the other third , and set the gathers in on

right and wrong sides, and fell the wristbands to the plain
portion of the sleeves.
12. Setting the Sleeves into the Armholes. — (a)
Place the point of the gussets to the side seam of the
body, between the body and the binders, and tack the
garment to the sleeve along both sides of the gussets,
4
I
FIG. 46.
which must never be gathered or pleated ; ( ) whatever of

extra length of the sleeves is left beyond the length of
the armholes must be gathered on either side of the centre
crease, or folded edge of the sleeve, and set in at the
shoulder-straps, where there will be double material, made
of the shoulder - strap and body of the shirt ; ( c) the rest
of the sleeve must be felled ; (d) set in the gathered por
tion of the sleeve on the wrong side of the binder, and
G
fell the rest of the binder to the plain parts of the

sleeves .
13. Button and Buttonholes on the Wristbands.
(a) When the sleeves are set into the armholes, lay the
shirt out flat, with the front part of the body uppermost,
and stretch out each sleeve ; (b) put a button on the upper
part of each wristband, just above where the sleeve is put
into the wristband ; (c) turn the shirt with the back part
of the body uppermost, and stretch out each sleeve ; (a )
cut a buttonhole the selvedge way of the wristband, so
that it will be exactly opposite the button, and on the
under part of each wristband.
Notes.- 1. When you look at the front part of a shirt, with the
sleeves stretched out, you will see the buttons, and when you
look at the back part, you will see the buttonholes on the
sleeves . 2. You will now have finished the shirt, and you
must take out all the tacking threads, and press all the seams,
and binders, and shoulder-straps, and fold a big pleat down
the back of the body, and then fold in each side of the shirt
on the back, with the sleeves stretched out smoothly, then
fold up the bottom part of the shirt, and turn back over this
fold the front of the garment. 3. Fig. 46 gives the finished
appearance of the shirt with neck gusset, and with shoulder
strap fixed and felled to the wrong side of the garment.
THE GUSSET
REMARKS
1. Gussets are used (a ) to strengthen the ends of slits

and seams; (b) to form sleeves, such as in infants' first
sized shirts ; (c) or to add to the width of chemise and
nightshirt sleeves.
2. Gussets that are used to strengthen the ends of
seams in the sleeves and body of shirts are triangular in
shape and have a lining. Gussets set into the armholes of
infants' shirts are triangular in shape, but are not lined as
a rule ; and gussets set into chemise and shirt sleeves are
CHAP. IV THE GUSSET 83
at first cut square, but form double triangles after being

fixed to the sleeves.
Materials needed . — Two strips of calico to represent
(when they are joined together ) the garment, and a tri
angular piece of material for the gusset, sewing needle,
tacking and sewing cotton, and scissors.
THE LESSON
1. Fixing the Garment.—(a) Seam . — You must find

the selvedge of the two strips, and fix them for 11 inches at
one end either for sew-and-fell or run -and -fell seam, and
seam and fell, or run and fell, and then flatten the seam.
(6) Hems. — You must fix narrow hems on either side of
the opening (which you can consider either the wrist
opening of a sleeve, or the body opening at the end of the
side seam), and you must bring these hems off to points at
the top of the seam , and in order to do this successfully
you will find it necessary to cut a small portion of the
fell, so as to be able to turn this fold back to the wrong
side. Neatly tack the hems.
2. Fixing the Gusset.—a) Find the selvedge side of
the triangle and turn down a narrow fold once, then turn
6 5
2
3
FIG . 47.
down a fold on the other short side, and then a fold on

the longest side, which is on the cross, being careful not
to stretch it ; (b) fold the gusset in half from No. 1 down
wards, to find out if the fixing has been even, and to get
the point of the triangle exactly in the centre ; (C) fold the
point No. 1 down to the raw edge of the turning No. 4,
so that you now make a smaller triangle (marked 4, 5, 6

in Fig. 47 ) with a lining at the back of it ; (d ) you must
make this lining into a shape called a hexagon, so turn up
corner 2 to 5 and corner 3 to 6 on the wrong side of the
lining ; ( e) cut away corners 2 and 3, only leaving folds
to match the depth of the other turnings (Fig. 47). These
corners will be 7 and 8 now, and 2 and 3 will be at the
bottom line.
3. Fixing and Sewing the Gusset into the Garment.
- (a ) Place No. 1 of the triangle to the end of the seam ,
and close to the seaming stitches on the right side, and
tack the triangle from the point
on either side of the opening to
Nos. 5 and 6 (Fig. 47 ) ; (b ) begin
to seam at corner No. 5, and seam
as far as 6 ; (c) flatten the seaming
stitches ; (d ) fasten your sewing
needle to the work ; (e) turn the
work with wrong side towards you,
and place the crease in the middle
of the hexagon to the middle of
the seam, and with another needle
and cotton tack it neatly , being
careful to keep the sides quite
even, and gently pulling the lines
Nos. 2 and 3 of the hexagon to
make it lie quite flat over the full
and bulky part of the seam ; (f )
bring your needle with the sewing
FIG . 48. cotton in it to the wrong side at
corner No. 6, by passing the needle
between the garment and the gusset ; (9) fell the lining to
the garment from No. 6 to No. 5, being careful to fasten all
the corners securely ; (h) when you have felled the lining,
bring your needle through to the right side of the gusset
at No. 5, and stitch across it near the edge, taking care
not to stretch the gusset too much at this place, because
the material is on the cross ; (i) fasten off neatly and
CHAP. V CUTTING OUT A WOMAN'S NIGHTGOWN 85
securely on the wrong side ; (j ) press the lining with your

fingers and thumbs to make it lie flat and smooth. Fig.
48 shows the gusset set into a shirt sleeve.
CHAPTER V
CUTTING OUT A WOMAN'S NIGHTGOWN
1. Front of Body.—(a) Take a piece of calico 57 inches

long and 36 inches wide, and fold it in halves down its
length ; (b) fold the top part of the nightgown into halves
again, so that it is 9 inches wide, then fold it into thirds ;
(c) the first third D to H is the width of the neck slope,
fold this down on the garment to form a square, and draw
a faint pencil mark from I, just below the square to H, for
curve of neck ; (d) then fold in half the third at C to
get the width of the armhole slope ; (e) measure down
from C to J 2 inches for the shoulder slope, and crease
this from J to H ; ( f) measure down from J to M 10 inches,
and draw a line from J to M like the diagram , then cut
out this curve, and slope the shoulders and cut out the
neck curve, a little deeper than you have drawn it ; (g)
cut the slit for the front to the right of the centre crease,
so as to make the left-arm side wider, like you did for
front of shirt. The slit is generally cut as long as the
collar.
2. Back of Body.—a) Take a piece of calico 54 inches
long and 36 inches wide, and fold it in halves down its
length ; (b) measure down from A to F 10 inches, and
measure in from A to E 12 inches, or fold the folded gar
ment into thirds, and then divide the third near the open
edges into halves ; (c) draw a pencil line from E to F ; (d)
cut out this curve through the double material, and the
back is cut out. You need not curve the sides of the
front and back, like the diagram , but keep them quite
straight.
NEEDLEWORK PART I
86
3. The Yoke and its Lining.- (a ) Take a piece of

calico 20 inches long and 10 inches wide ; (b) fold it in
half, so that it is 20 inches long, i.e. selvedge way, and 5
inches wide ; (c) fold the yoke and its lining in half, so
that it is 10 inches long, and fourfold ; (d) fold it again
Akule 16 % ". B CtI" A
Binder
Folded
F-2oolded
Edge
.
Folded
44
1
Out
Edge
1 Yoke
I
Back
From $ 4 to 57 inches in length -10 " * 5"
E
F
3
个1
3
1364 ".
1
ΠΗ D4
GK
Wistband
1
WX€
Shoulder Slope i 0
1
J形 1 1
1
1
I
Binder
1
Tucks
1 1
1
Folded
0
1 1
Front
1
Edge
. 1
Fold
12
:4"21
1 1 .
1
X9
I 1
!
i 0 U
0
!
Front 1 . 1
0
!1 !
1
+ 0
Mм From 57 to 60 inches in length

wi
AL
Fig . 49.
into halves, and then into quarters, and well press to get
creases; (e) open it so that it is 10 inches long and 5
inches deep, and has three creases across the depth ; (f )
from A to B is 21 inches, i.e. one-fourth of the length, and
from B to D is three-fourths of the length ; (g) measure
down 1 inch from A, and draw a curve from C to B,
CHAP. V CUTTING OUT A WOMAN'S NIGHTGOWN 87
and then cut this out, through the fourfold material ;

(h) measure from D to E 2 inches, and fold in a slanting
line from E to B , and cut off this slope through the four
fold material, and the yoke and its lining are cut out.
(The yoke may be 18 x 5 inches .)
4. The Sleeves.—Take a 21- inch square of material,
and holding one selvedge side BD, fold it down till it is 7
A. roz " B
H 17 1814 "
|
Front
- old
Çollar
One Sleeve
F
" '4
18
IZ
"X 72
21" x 20
2)16
-_* 1
IZ
2
1
+
TE
G
74 " F
624
Fig. 49 - continued .
inches at the wrist ; then cut off the extra portions at the
bottom, the top, and the side. Both sleeves must be cut
out in this way .
Note. --All the rest of the garment is cut the selvedge way of the
stuff, quite straight.
5. Cutting out a Saddle Yoke.—(Fig. 50) ( a ) Take two

pieces of material, 24 inches selvedgewise, and 12 inches
deep, and fold it in halves, so that you have a 12-inch

fourfold square ; (b) fold this square into thirds down the
depth of the stuff, and into fourths across the length ; (c)
А IL " from B to E is half the depth ;
measure in from B 1 inch, and
fold in a slanting line from E
bəptos
to 11 inches, and then mark

12" X 12 with broad blade of scissors a
curve round to E, beginning
Gi with a straight line ; (d) fold
im from E to F (which is nearly
374' F 84
} of the length) in a slanting
Fig. 50. line, and well press ; (e) then
fold from F to G in a slanting
line, i.e. as far as the first fourth crease ; ( f) then measure
in from line AC at the centre crease IE 21 inches, and
Wrist
Folded
Folded
A D B
- and
edge
-872x2
edge
b
Section of 10
Section of
VE
Back T Front
32" x 15 % " | III

31" X 15 "
B
8 %
Aj+ 212 " 6." 2./2-42'4372
142 1/2
172 ® Back HN
Front Yoke 11
6 " x 544 One Sleeve
7 " X II " (2 ) T
18 " x 18" 1
Fig . 51 .
curve out from G through I to H for the neck. From

A to H is nearly half the depth of the material (Fig. 50) .
Cut the curves and slanting lines as true as possible.
CHAP . V MAKING UP A WOMAN'S NIGHTGOWN 89
N.B.—The nightgown body is not cut so long for a saddle yoke,

and both back and front of the body is cut the same length .
The front of the body is not sloped nor curved for the shoulder
and neck , because the yoke forms these parts. The body is
gathered both at the front and the back, and set in between
the yoke and its lining.
Note. — Fig. 51 is a child's yoked nightgown.
MAKING UP A WOMAN'S NIGHTGOWN, WITH TUCKED

FRONT AND YOKED BACK
Construction . — a) The plainest style nightgown is
made with shoulder-straps and neck gussets. Another
style is with yoked back and tucked front, and buttoned
in the centre of the front of the garment. A third style
is made with the saddle yoke, and a fourth with yoked
back and yoke fronts ; the latter being separated from
the back yoke in cutting out, and either put on quite
plain or ornamented with tucks and rows of insertion . (6)
The following description applies to the making up of the
sectional diagram ( Fig. 49).
(c) The Seams.---The sides of the garment may be
straight or only slightly shaped. The seams can be joined
by sew -and -fell, counter-hem , German hem, or run -and-fell,
if the garment is made of calico or muslin ; if a flannel or
flannelette garment, the seams can be fixed as for a flannel
petticoat, and then run and backstitched, and herring
boned on the wrong side.
(a) The Hem should be 1 inch wide when completed.
Care must be taken to match the seams when fixing the
hem ; a calico or muslin garment would be neatly hemmed ;
a flannel or flannelette garment could have a hem of one
fold and be herring -boned, but it is preferable to turn the
raw edge under, and backstitch on the right side.
(e) The Binders.--The front binder is always longer
than the back one when the garment is made up with the
tucked front and yoked back. The binders must be shaped
to match the curves of the armholes, and must be joined
on the wrong side by run -and -backstitch, so as to fit the

curve of body under the armholes. Turn down a fold of
4 inch on the inner curves, and lay the wrong side of the
binders to the wrong side of the armholes, and fell them
neatly, being careful to fit the binders evenly at the top
of the armhole, and to shape the front one to match the
shoulder slope .
N.B.-Many people now dispense with binders altogether, and
make the sleeves longer, and fix them to the armholes in such
a way as to form a narrow border, or lining to the body.
Binders are, however, necessary, because they strengthen the
garment at the top of the side seams. They should not be
very wide for this garment.
(f ) The Yoke.-Crease the yoke down the middle at
the back, and then crease the back body of the night
gown. Turn down a fold of į inch, or more if necessary,
along the straight selvedge side of the yoke. Pin the
yoke to the body at the top of each armhole, then draw
out the creased back body, and fold it towards the right
armhole, in order to find out the exact place to begin
gathering the fulness at the back of the body. By doing
this the rule of gathering twice as much as the length of
the yoke can be carried into effect. When the gathers
are quite ready for setting in, fix the yoke most carefully
and smoothly on the back body, being careful only to tack
it at the armholes to the body, and not through the
binders, and to place the centre crease of the yoke to the
centre crease in the back of the garment, and to regulate
the fulness properly . The yoke and body must be
divided into halves and quarters for the gathers.
(9) The Lining of the Yoke must be fixed along the
straight selvedge side, like the yoke, and then placed at
either end on the binders and tacked to them only ; the
rest of the lining must be placed exactly on the gathering
thread, and set in as neatly, and with as much finish as
the right side. The lining must not be taken above or
below the gathering -thread and setting-in stitches of the
yoke, or it will be puckered. It must also match the
СНАР. у MAKING UP A WOMAN'S NIGHTGOWN 91
yoke exactly at the slopes of the shoulders and at the

armholes. When the gathers are completely set in, fix
and tack the shoulder slopes and the armholes, to prevent
the edges ravelling.
(1) The Front. — Some people tuck the front before
sloping the shoulders or shaping the neck, others shape
these parts before the tucking is commenced. In the
diagram given, the tucks are fixed from the neck point
of the shoulder, and the shaping is done first. The tucks
may be made in sets of three or five, with a corresponding
width of space between them. When both sides of the
front are tucked, and match each other in width, then
the centre crease of the front must be managed for the
opening or vent. If a front fold is put on, on the right
arm side, and a hem is taken from the garment on the
left-arm side, the garment must not be cut on the centre
crease, but as much to the right of it as will allow material
for the hem, so that the sides of the neck shall be equal in
size, and still allow of the front fold lapping, and the
centre of this fold to be the centre of the neck ; or if the
garment is cut down the centre crease, a false hem can be
put on the left side of the opening to fold back on to the
right side of the garment, and should be stitched, instead
offelled to the garment.
(i) The Front Fold must be placed on the wrong side of
the right- arm opening, and run and backstitched 1 of
an inch from the edge, then turned over to the right
side of the garment, the other long selvedge side being
turned down once, and the edge at the bottom treated in
the same way as described in front fold of chemise. Tack
the fold to the garment, being careful to allow it to form
the outer edge of the slit, and fell it, and then stitch or
feather -stitch it to the garment. The outer edge must be
stitched or feather-stitched as well .
N.B.-The correct way of fastening a nightgown is right over left.
The opening down the front should equal the length of the
collar, but the front fold should extend quite an inch or an
inch and a half below it. The fulness below the slit caused by
lapping may be pleated or gathered, and fastened down by the

point of the fold . If a front fold of insertion is put on, a wider
hem is fixed on the right-arm side of the slit, and the garment
is cut as far as it is necessary to the left of the centre crease ,
in order to make both sides of the neck equal in width . The
tucks must all fall towards the front fold, and they must be
graduated in length towards the armholes. The front of the
nightgown must be narrowed by the tucks, till each side is the
same length as the shoulder slope of the yoke. The yoke must
then be fixed to the front of the garment on either side of the
opening, and the yoke must be neatly felled to the tucked
portions, the tucks being kept quite flat and smooth. The
edges of the shoulder slope of the yoke are sometimes stitched
or feather -stitched after they are felled . The lining of the
yoke must be carefully fixed over the shoulders of the garment,
and must be neatly felled above the wrong side of the tucks
and the stitches from the other side, and through the binders
only. The lining of the yoke must lie perfectly smooth .
(j ) The Sleeves.— (a) The sides of the sleeves must be
joined by sew-and-fell seam, or any other method that
has been used for the sides of the body ; (b) the fulness
at the wrist may be pleated, gathered, or tucked, according
to the material of which the garment is made. A portion
of the material on either side of the seam must be left
plain, and the remainder must be halved and quartered
and then gathered, if stout calico ; tucked, if fine calico
or Mull muslin ; and pleated, if flannel. The crosswise
material is the under half of the sleeve.
(k) The Wristband.— (a) The wristbands are usually
closed up at the sides by putting the two raw edges
together, and joining them by run-and -backstitch, then
flattening the seam, and turning it to the inside of the
band, which is formed of double material ; (b) the raw
edges must be folded under firmly and neatly ; (c) the
band must be divided into halves and quarters after
placing the join to the seam of the sleeve and to the plain
portions, on either side of the seam. The wristband is
then neatly felled to the sleeve, and the gathers properly
set in . The wristband is felled over the pleats and tucks,
CHAP. V MAKING UP A WOMAN'S NIGHTGOWN 93
and is usually ornamented with rows of feather-stitching,

or, if an unbleached calico garment, it is stitched above the
felling, and also at the outer edge.
N.B. - Some prefer an open wristband with turned -down cuff. The
band is then fastened by buttons and buttonholes.
(1) Fixing the Sleeves to the Armholes of the Body.— (a )

The seams of the sleeves must be placed between the body
and the binders, and to the side seams, and tacked firmly
and closely. If the sleeve is a little broader than the
armhole, the fulness at the top must be gathered for a
calico garment, and pleated for a flannel, and this fulness
must be placed at the armhole portion of the yoke and
carefully set in. The body armhole is thus fixed on the
sleeve, and may be felled or stitched or feather-stitched.
(b) The binders on the wrong side must be fixed to the
stitches on the sleeve, and neatly felled . They must
lie perfectly flat and smooth, and the felling must not be
taken either above or below the stitches of the right side.
(m) The Collar.- (a) The neck portion of the garment
needs skilful management. The neck slope in the sec
tional diagram is drawn higher than it must be when the
garment is completed. It is always better to draw, and
to cut out the neck slope in paper patterns higher than it
must be, when the collar is fixed on, because the slope can
always be cut deeper to correspond to the length of the
collar, or the curves of the neck of the intended wearer,
but if cut too deep at first, the collar must be made longer
to remedy the evil, and the neck is out of proportion to
the rest of the garment ; (b) the selvedge sides of the
collar must be fixed first, then the ends, which must be
neatly seamed on the right side ; (c) the collar should
then be divided into thirds, and about one-third fixed to
the yoke portion of the neck, and a third to each side of
the neck of the front ; (a ) the collar should be fixed quite
straight across the front fold and the left hem, and then
carried round towards the shoulders ; (e) the collar must
be felled to the neck on the right side, and then carefully
felled on the wrong side, so that it lies quite flat and

straight. The collar is ornamented by rows of stitching,
or feather-stitching.
(n) Feather -stitching and Knotting. The collar, wrist
ooooo
ం g
మ .or
<
fo
of
fo
doo O
Þooo
4 :
o
ceo
coe
of
o del
cpe
o
‫عع‬
‫عع‬
‫ع‬‫عع‬
‫عه‬
1
FIG , 52.
bands, front fold, and the spaces between the sets of tucks
can be ornamented in a pattern formed of feather-stitch
and knotting
(0) Button and Buttonholes. —One button and buttonhole
will be needed for the collar, and two buttons and button
CH. V SCALE OF PROPORTIONS FOR NIGHTGOWNS 95
holes for the front. The buttonholes must be worked on

the right-arm side, and the buttons must be sewn on the
left. It is usual to cut the buttonholes the selvedge way
of the material on the front fold as well as the collar. If
the wristbands are open, two more buttons and button
holes will be needed. If round corners are used, they
must be placed at the end of the bands, and at the top of
the holes on the front fold .
N.B. – Fig. 52 shows the made-up garment.
( ) Trimming. — The garment can be trimmed with a
knitted edging, crochet edging, everlasting edging, or
embroidery .
SCALE OF PROPORTIONS FOR NIGHTGOWNS

The scale for nightgowns may be built upon propor
tions agreeing either with the length of the collar, or with
the height of the wearer, or upon both. The following
scale is built partly upon the length of the collar, and
partly upon the height of the wearer.
Length of the Nightgown may be either or of the
wearer's height.
Breadth. - 3 of the length, and more if gores are added.
Yoke.—(a) Length = 1 } or 14 of the collar length.
(6) Depth = 4 or } of its own length.
(c) Length of shoulder slope = nearly 1 of the
collar length ; depth of slope at the
armhole portion of yoke = { of the collar
length.
(d) Slope of neck in width = 4 of the yoke
length ; depth of neck slope = 1 inch.
Sleeve.- (a) Length = 1} of collar length .
(1) Width of the top is the same as the
length.
(c) Width at the wrist = { of the widest part.
Wristband .-(a) Length = the collar length + 1 ! ins.
(6) Depth = } its own length, before it is
doubled .
Armholes.—(a) Length = } the widest part of the

sleeve.
(6) Slope = } of the collar length.
Binders. —Length = same as the armholes + the width
of the binders for lining the body
below the armholes.
Slope of Shoulder of Body.- (a ) Length = } of the 1
collar length.
(6) Depth of slope of armholes = } of collar
length.
Neck Slope of Body.- (a) Width when the garment is
folded in half = 1 of the breadth of
garment.
(6) Depth of slope = a little more than the
width .
Front Fold.—(a) Length = same as the collar + 1 )
inches.
(6) Width = of the collar length + } an
inch for turnings.
Front Slit is usually the length of the collar.
N.B .-- In these proportions all turnings are allowed for.
CHAPTER VI
EYELET-HOLES, CASING BONES, HOOKS AND EYES,

BINDING SKIRT EDGES, OVERCASTING SEAMS,
FEATHER-STITCH
EYELET-HOLES
Method.-- 1 . Making the Hole.- (a) Pierce the material
with a steel or bone stiletto, on the right side of the
article, till the hole is large enough for the hook, or tape
string, or lace ; (b) outline the holes on the right side by
running stitches ; ( ) cut away a little of the material,
which has been pushed to the wrong side.
CHAP. VÌ TO SET ON HOOKS AND EYES 97
2. The Stitches. — Overcast the eyelet-holes from left to

right, working the stitches very close together, and draw
ing them tightly, in order to protect and cover the raw
edges, and make them firm and strong.
N.B.-Fasten on and off very neatly and securely, on the wrong
side, by a few backstitches.
Use. - Eyelet-holes are used instead of eyes, when dress
bodices are fastened by hooks or laces, for laced boots and
children's stay-bands, for neck hems of pinafores, frocks,
shifts, which are drawn up by tape strings.
CASING BONES
Method .- (a ) Cut the whalebone the length of the

bodice seams from the dart points, and under the arms,
and middle of back to the edge of the bodice, before the
false hem is added ; (b) then cut pieces of lining like that
used to line the skirt of the dress, in strips longer than
the bones, and wide enough to allow of turnings, and to
well cover the bones ; (c) turn down one fold on the
selvedges of the linings or casings, and on the width of them
top and bottom, and lay the casings over the seams, on
the wrong side, and then fell, or run them very neatly at
the selvedges and bottom fold, to the dress material and
its lining, just inside the overcast edges ; ( d) see that the
ends of the bones are well rounded and pared of all
splintered pieces, and push them between the casings and
the seams ; (e) then fell the tops of the folded casings very
closely and neatly over the edge to the bodice.
N.B. - Casings of tape or silk binding can be purchased for this
purpose, but those made from strips of skirt lining are more
economical, and more durable.
TO SET ON HOOKS AND EYES
Hooks and eyes should be thickly oversewn with

flourishing or linen thread, or silk, the same colour as the
HН
frock or dress, at the hook and eye portions, and should

then be strongly fastened to the dress by closely over
sewing the under part of the hook, and the ring portions
of both hook and eye with strong thread or silk.
TO BIND SKIRT EDGES
Skirt edges are bound with braid or velvet in the

following manner :-place the braid / or of an inch from
the edgeof the garment, with the right side of the bind
ing facing the right side of the skirt, then run and back
stitch the braid to the garment, a little distance from its
own edge, and afterwards turn the braid to the wrong
side, being careful not to draw it over the edge of the
garment too tightly, and fell or run it neatly.
Note . - Braid binding can be placed equally over the edge of the
skirt, and machine-stitched quite through the braid and the
skirt, on the right side.
OVERCASTING SEAMS
Seams can be overcast by blanket-stitch, or by seam
ing from left to right. (See Lessons on Print Patching. )
CORAL AND FEATHER-STITCH

Method . - 1. Fastening on . -Slip the needle between
the folds of the tucks, and bring it out on the right or
upper side of the tuck, and make a backstitch or two, to
secure the cotton, or wool, or silk, or flourishing thread .
2. The Stitch.-(a) Count two or more threads to the
right of where the cotton is coming out, and put your
needle under two or more threads diagonally, drawing the
cotton towards you obliquely, and putting it under the
point of the needle ; (b) draw the needle and cotton
out loosely, and always remember that wool especially
must never be drawn tightly, or the material will be
CHAP. VÍ CORAL AND FEATHER- STITCH 99
puckered, and after washing the stitches will be spoilt ;

(c) count to the left the same number of threads as you
began with, and draw the cotton from the stitch you have
just made in a slanting direction to the left, and put your
left thumb on it, then throw the cotton to the left over
SI
MI
D
N
I D
HD
FIG . 53.
the thumb, and put the needle under two or more threads
diagonally, and draw it out above the cotton, thus making
a half knot, and a slanting stitch. This pattern is single
feather-stitch , and is worked diagonally from right to
left, and then from left to right. Fig. 53 gives several
patterns of coral and feather-stitch. Coral-stitch is made
by putting the needle in quite straight. The two first
patterns are coral-stitch .
101099
CHAPTER VII
SEWING ON TAPES ON VARIOUS ARTICLES
SEWING TAPES ON PILLOW -SLIPS, TOWELS, DUSTERS,

AND BARROW-COATS
Wrong Side
Pillow Case .
FIG. 54,
Du To
st we
Heo r l
Towel . ld,
or er
Wrong Side
FIG . 55 .
1. Pillow-slips.-(a) Prepare the tapes in the same way

as for bands ; (b) place the tapes on the broad hem one
CH . VII SEWING TAPES ON PILLOW -SLIPS, ETC. 101
fourth of the width of the pillow -slip apart, and just above
the edge of the wide hem ; (c) hem three sides, and stitch
the tape across its width to the hem on the right side.
The tapes must fall outwards from the slip, and the raw
edges at the ends must be turned under by a narrow
hem (Fig. 54).
2. Towels, Dusters, etc.—These must be hemmed on
the wrong side, and stitched across their width on the
right side, and the centre edges of the tape loop must be
seamed together forwards and then backwards to form
crosses (Fig. 55).
3. Pinafores. - Tapes are placed on the wrong side of
the right-arm back, in the same way as on a band, and
close to the edge, but on the left - arm back they are
placed at a little distance from the edge, and are stitched
to the right side of the pinafore. The ends must always
be finished off by narrow hems.
4. Barrow-coats.—Tapes are placed at equal distances
from each other at the sides of the garment, those on the
wrong side being hemmed and seamed at the edge (or
stitched ), and those at the right side being placed from 4 to
5 inches from the edge, and the square of tape must be
stitched to the garment. The ends of the tapes must be
neatly finished off by narrow hems. Some people cover
the square of tape on the right side of the garment with
a square of flannel. The flannel squares are really herring
boned to the garment.
PART II
KNITTING AND MENDING COURSE
CHAPTER I
SCALES FOR A MAN'S PAIR OF SOCKS AND A GIRL'S PAIR

OF STOCKINGS ; A KNITTED EDGING, AND TAKING
UP A LADDER
SCALE FOR MAN's Socks

1. Number of stitches on each needle 32
2. Total , including seam stitch 96
3. Rib or welt . 3 inches
4. Plain or ribbed rows 3
N.B. - Longer if necessary.

14 , with 6 rows
5. Leg reductions, i.e. double decreasings between
6. Total of stitches for ankle 88
7. Plain or ribbed rows to the heel . 3 inches
8. Number of stitches on the heel needle 43
The same number of rows as stitches on
9. Size of the heel
the needle
10. Number of stitches after the heel is turned . Dutch . 11
11. Number of slip stitches on each side of the heel . 21
12. Number of stitches after gusset decreasings, with
one row between 88
13. Length of foot from
the first gusset de- The same as the length of the ankle , plus
creasing of the heel the length of the leg reductions in the
to the first toe de- calf,
creasing
CHAP. I SCALE FOR GIRL'S STOCKINGS 103
14. Reduce the toe till the number of stitches left on the
two needles are . 14
Note . - See author's Text -book for other sizes.
SCALE FOR GIRL'S STOCKINGS ( 16 to 17 years)
MATERIALS.— 4-ply Fingering, or Winter Merino, or Angola Wool

NEEDLES. —Nos. 14, 15, or 16, according to the knitter
1. Number of stitches on each needle 32
2. Total number of stitches, including the seam stitch 96

3. The rib or welt 3 inches
4. Plain rows, or two squares 96
N.B.--- Longer if necessary.

5. Number of double narrowings 13
6. Total number of stitches, after the decreasings 70
7. Number of rows to
the heel to) One square or more, if necessary .
8. Number of stitches on one needle for the heel 35
9. Number of stitches on the instep needles 35
The same number of rows as stitches on
10. Size of the heel
{ the needle
11. Number of stitches after the heel is turned . Dutch 9
12. Number of slip stitches on each side of the heel . 17

13. Number of stitches after decreasings, with one row
between 70
14. Length of foot from
first gusset decreas- One and a half squares, or the width
ing of the heel to of the top of the stocking, when
the first decreasing doubled .
for the toe
15. Number of stitches on each of the two needles for the toe 35
N.B.-The seam stitch is decreased after the turning

of the heel.
16. Number of stitches to be cast off each of the two toe
needles 11
N.B.-The scale is for coarse materials, See author's Text -book

for other sizes .
104 NEEDLEWORK PART II
KNITTED EDGING
Materials.— Wool, crochet cotton, or linen thread.

Method.— 1 . Cast on five stitches, and knit them off.
2. First Row . — Slip one, bring the cotton forward and
knit two together twice.
3. Second Row . — Slip one, and knit plain to the end of 1
the row .
N.B. - Repeat the second row , after every pattern row.

4. Third Row.-Slip one, bring the cotton forward and
knit two together twice, cotton forward and knit one.
5. Fifth Row.—Slip one, cotton forward and knit two
together twice, cotton forward and knit two.
6. Seventh Row.—Slip one, cotton forward and knit two
together three times, cotton forward and knit one.
7. Ninth Row.—Slip one, cotton forward and knit two
together three times, cotton forward and knit two.
8. Eleventh Row. —Slip one, cotton forward and knit
two together four times, cotton forward and knit one.
9. Thirteenth Row . — Slip one, cotton forward and knit
two together four times, cotton forward and knit two.
10. Fifteenth Row . - Cast off eight stitches, then bring
cotton forward and knit two together, cotton forward and
knit one .
11. Sixteenth Row.—Slip first stitch and knit four plain .
Repeat from the first row till enough has been knitted
for trimming a garment, or a couvrette, or counterpane, or
any other articles.
Use. --This edging, knitted in No. 20, or finer, Evans's
cotton, makes a very strong trimming for children's under
clothing, e.g. drawers, flannelette nightgowns ; but if in
linen thread it makes a pretty trimming for frocks and
pinafores.
CHAP. II DARNING 105
TAKING UP A LADDER, OR DROPPED STITCHES IN

KNITTING
Method.— (a) Put your hand into the stocking and

hold the ladder or dropped stitches over the forefinger of
your left hand, with the loops towards you ; (b) take the
head of a pin or crochet-hook, and put it away from you
under the loops to the right, and then under the ladder of
cotton or wool and quitethrough it, without splitting or
breaking the ladder or the dropped loop ; (c) draw the
ladder through the loop, and go on taking up the other
dropped stitches in the same way.
CHAPTER II
DARNING
Darning a Thin Place on Flannel or other Woollen

Material.-- (a) Turn the wrong
side of the garment towards
you, and place the selvedge
way of the material up and
down over the back of two
fingers of your left hand ; (6)
begin at the left - hand side,
either at the top or the bottom,
and put your needle under one
or more of the strong threads
away from the thin place at
the top and the side, and then
over one or more threads, and
repeat the process of under
and over the threads, till you
have well covered the length
of the thin place, and made
a border on all sides of it ; (c)
come down one or two threads
(or go up) to make irregular Fig . 56.
edges, leave loops at the end of each row to allow of

working up into the material, and thus preventing a
pucker, and to allow of shrinking in the wash ; (d) leave
one or more threads between each row to prevent a
cobble. The shapes of darns depend upon the shapes
T!T! AM
MHA
1 ..
.
UDHI
HHHH
HHI
FIG. 57.
of the worn parts. Sometimes an oblong is the best

shape, and sometimes a diamond. Figs. 56 and 57 give
you the shapes of darns not only on woollen materials,
but also on table and house linen.
DARNING IN A PATCH ON WOOLLEN DRESS MATERIALS

Method.—(a) Cut away all the worn and torn part of
CHAP. II TWILL AND WAVE DARNS 107
the garment to a thread on all sides of the hole ; (6) cut

a patch of the same material, large enough to fit the hole,
without overlapping it, and matching the pattern, if the
material has one; (c) tack the edges of the patch to the
edges of the garment in zigzag from side to side ; (d) turn
to the wrong side and darn as for a thin place and
hedge tear 1 of an inch on the patch and the garment,
taking care to draw the edges closely together, without
puckering ; (e) lay a damp cloth on the patch and gar
ment, and well press with a hot iron .
N.B.-This is an excellent way of patching thick woollen dress
materials such as Scotch tweeds, which do not ravel out very
quickly, and are too thick to bear turnings. The darning
material must match the dress material if possible, in a lighter
shade of colour, and must be strong. Silk is often the best
material to use .
TWILL AND WAVE DARNS
Method . — Twill . — Put the needle under and over the

threads, as in ordinary darning, and keep to the same
number that was taken up in the first row, but always
coming down one lower in every row.
N.B. -This darn is very useful for twilled materials, e.g. flannel,
serge, and other dress materials, and twilled calicoes and linen.
The Wave.—This darn resembles the twill. Put the

needle under and over the threads or loops of the material,
and come down one in every row, till say five, or seven
rows are darned, then go up one in every row, till seven
rows are darned , and then in the next seven rows come
down one loop or thread .
N.B.—This darn is used for stockings, socks, and other knitted
garments, and for table linen .
CHAPTER III
CROSS -CUT AND HEDGE - TEAR DARNS
REMARKS
1. A cross or diagonal cut is generally caused by acci

dentally cutting the material with a sharp instrument, as
in carelessly cutting bread on the tablecloth, or by the
knife slipping against the pinafore while sharpening a
pencil.
2. In a cross cut both the selvedge and woof threads
are damaged, and for this reason the hole must be darned
in a particular way, to prevent the slit from gaping when
the articles are in use again and are stretched.
3. You must learn and practise this darn on a square
of linen before you try to darn a tablecloth or a garment.
You must not think you are wasting your time in learning
to darn cross or diagonal cuts, because you may some day
have the oversight and care of the linen of a household.
Materials needed . - A linen tablecloth, or table nap
kin, etc., linen thread, darning needle, sewing needle and
cotton, pencils, scissors or penknife, inch measure.
LESSON A
DRAWING THE RHOMBOIDS
1. Cutting the Material.- ( a) Find the selvedges of

the material ; (b) fold the square diagonally from corner
to corner, and crease carefully ; ( c) open the square and
measure along this diagonal crease 1 inch , and cut this
1 inch with a sharp penknife or scissors, either from the
right-hand top corner towards the left bottom corner (as
in Fig. 58), or from left top corner to right bottom one.
CHAP . III DRAWING THE RHOMBOIDS 109
2. Drawing the First Rhomboid.—(u) Begin on the

selvedge side ; if the cut is a true diagonal, leave a space
on either side of it half its own length, so as to form a
square, and indicate the square by faint pencilled lines.
(Corners 3, 4, 5, and 6 in the diagram, Fig. 58, represent
7
Selvedge
3
5 .9
IOC 6
FIG . 58.
the square .) If the cut is 1 inch, the sides of the square

must be 1 inch. (6) Extend the lines of the square at its
opposite corners 3 and 4, upwards and downwards, the
same length as its sides, i.e. 1 inch (Fig. 58).
Notes. — 1. If the slit is going in the opposite direction to that in
the diagram , you must extend the square upwards and down
wards at corners 5 and 6 , in order that the slanting lines of
the rhomboid may go in the same direction as the slit. 2. You
enclose the slit within rhomboids, so that you may darn a
great deal of the material on the cross, and thus prevent the
hole from gaping when pulled diagonally. If you only darn
the square , you will not sufficiently protect the sides of the
slit.
3. Drawing the Second Rhomboid . — Turn your work

round, and extend the line of the square at corner 3
upwards, and at corner 4 downwards, thus making corners
9 and 10 (Fig. 58).
Notes. — 1. You can crease the lines of the rhomboids, instead of
drawing pencilled lines. 2. A good definition of the word
rhomboid is an oblong pulled out of shape. 3. Two rhom
boids crossing each other give the appearance of triangles.
LESSON B
THE DARNING
1. Fishbone Stitch. Hold the wrong side of the
material towards you, and draw the edges of the cut
together by passing a sewing needle and cotton under and
over the edges alternately, so that the stitches interlace,
and the edges nearly touch each other. This stitch is
called the fishbone, and it is used to prevent the edges
from fraying out while you are darning. You must not
withdraw the sewing cotton when the darn is completed,
because it shows that you cut the slit before you did the
darning (Fig. 59).
2. Darning.- (a) Keep the wrong side towards you,
and begin darning the rhomboid that is drawn the selvedge
way of the stuff, either at the left - hand top or bottom
corner ; (b) darn from No. 5 to No. 8 by putting your
needle under one and over one thread, if the material is
coarse (or under and over two threads, if the material is
fine), draw the needle out and leave an end ; ( c) leave one
or two threads between every row , according to the num
ber of threads you have gone under and over in the first
and all succeeding rows of the darning ; ( d) be careful to
keep the bases of the triangle even on the right side, and
CHAP . III THE DARNING 111
in order to do this you must sometimes take up less and

sometimes more threads at the slanting lines than on the
rest of the material ; (e) leave loops of even length at the
end of every row, and remember why you must do so (to
allow the thread to work up into the original material ,
and for shrinking in the wash) ; ( f) when you reach the
FIG. 59 .
slit be very careful to put your needle under the edges,

so as to keep all the frayed parts to the wrong side, and
work underand over the fishbone stitches, as you would
do in the common darn, and disregard the rule of under
one thread and over, if it is likely to prevent you from
properly strengthening the slit ; ( 9) when you have darned
the first rhomboid, turn your work round, and darn the
second in the same way, being careful to put your needle
quite through the stuff, as well as the thread, when cross

ing the square, in order to fix the slit firmly, and to darn
in all the jagged edges of the cut.
Note.-- You must remember that the square is double darned ,
both on wrong and right sides, but the angles are only darned
once ( Fig. 59) .
THREE - CORNERED OR HEDGE TEAR
REMARKS
1. This kind of tear more frequently happens to a

dress or an apron, than to any other article of clothing,
by being accidentally caught on the pointed edge of a
desk or a nail. Table and bed- linen and underclothing
are sometimes accidentally torn in this way, in the drying
ground, after being washed. In rural districts it is called
a hedge tear or a snag.
2. In this kind of tear the threads are severed both
ways of the stuff separately, except at one corner, where
the selvedge and woof threads are torn away together.
3. The shape of this darn varies. If the sides of the
tear are equal in length, a square is suitable ; but the sides
are oftenest unequal, and for this reason oblongs are best.
4. If the tear is on a serge or other'woollen material,
you must use Shetland or Andalusian wool as nearly as
possible of the same colour ; but if on cashmere, merino,
alpaca, llama, or silk, you must use silk of the same
colour, and afterwards press the darn with a warm iron .
Materials needed . — A serge, or flannel, or alpaca dress 1
or apron , a darning and a sewing needle, darning material,
sewing cotton , scissors or penknife. 1
DRAWING
1. Drawing the First Oblong, Selvedge Way . — a )

Find the selvedge, and mark by a pin ; (b) measure away
CHAP. III DRAWING 113
from corner b, where all the threads are severed, either j

or 1 inch ; and then the same distance to the right of
corner c, and the same upwards and downwards ; (c) mark
these distances by pencilled 6 15
dots, and connect them by
straight lines, thus forming
the first oblong ( 1 , 2, 3, 4
Selvedge
а.
in Fig. 60). 8
2. The Second Oblong. 3
Turn your work round, and
extend the line 1 , 2 to your bБ C
left the same distance as that

between 1 and 2 , and up 2
7
wards from corner 6 the same FIG. 60.
distance as from 1 and 2,

and draw faint pencilled lines to form the second oblong,
which crosses the first one.
3. The Fishbone Stitch . — Draw the edges of the cut
together by the fishbone stitch (see Lesson on the Cross
Cut ).
4. The Darning.-(a) Begin to darn at corner No. 1 ,
5 . and work down and up, under
one, over one, till corners 3
and 4 are reached , when the
first or selvedge oblong will
be completed (see Lesson on
Cross Cut, because the method
1 of darning is the same) ; (b)
turn the work round and begin
1 at corner 5, and darn down and
up till the second oblong is
ՆՇ completed.
Fig . 61 .
Notes. - 1 . You must be careful to leave a thread or threads be

tween the rows and loops, and to work through the material,
when crossing the first oblong from 1 to 8, and 2 to 7 , and to
keep all the raw edges to the wrong side. 2. You must ob
serve that the corner which has been most damaged and
I
weakened is strengthened by the double darn ; the other two

corners are only darned once . 3. The cotton of the fishbone
stitch is a great help in darning that part of the tear where
all the threads are severed . 4. The patterns formed by the
crossing of the first figure , in both the cross-cut and hedge
tear darns, vary ; sometimes being in the form of X's, T's,
or V's.
CHAPTER IV
DARNING THIN PLACES AND HOLES IN SOCKS AND

STOCKINGS
Materials needed.- Perfectly clean socks or stockings,

darning or mending angola, or merino, or cotton, or silk,
according to the texture of the socks and stockings, darning
needle , sewing needle and cotton, scissors, crochet -hook.
1. Darning a Thin Place . — a) Turn the sock or
stocking with its wrong side towards you, and put your
left hand in it and under the thin place, arranging the
part to be darned so that the ridges go round the hand
and lie flat upon it ; (b) begin at the left -hand side upon
the strong loops above and away from the worn ones ; (c)
notice that the loops in stocking material go down and up
in vertical rows, as well as in ridges, horizontally ; (d )
begin either at the top or bottom (if at the top you must
darn over and under the down loops, but if at the bottom,
over and under the up ones), and when you have well
covered the length of the thin part, draw your needle out,
without puckering, and leave a short end ; (e) come down
(or go up ) one ridge in the second row, and put your
needle under and over the up or down) loops, stopping
one ridge from where you fastened on, and draw your
needle out, leaving a loop at the bottom ; ( ) keep your
work in the same position all the time you are darning,
and be careful to darn every row, or you will pull the
loops out of shape, and (because the stocking web is elastic)
CHAP. IV DARNING ON STOCKING WEB 115
the thin place will not be strengthened perfectly unless

all the loops are covered alternately on the wrong and
right sides (Fig. 62).
2. Darning Holes.—(a) Turn the wrong side of the
sock or stocking towards you, and if it is a coarse knitted
Mih
ih
ht
ht
FIG. 62.
one, and the hole has very torn edges, cut away the
fractured parts ; (b) then draw out the broken bits and
ladders till the loops at the top and bottom are free and
quite sound. (If any of the ladders are unbroken , take
them up as described below.) (c) Draw the ends out at
each vertical side, and crochet them under and over the
up and down loops of the ridges to fasten them down
neatly and securely, or pass your needle under and over
the loops, then thread the eye of the needle and draw the
end into the sock, as far as its length will allow. If the
material is very coarse, you will need a large-eyed needle.
( a) When all the ends at the sides are fastened in, begin
to darn as for a thin place at the left-hand side of the
hole, remembering all the chief points of stocking-web
darning : e.g. ( 1 ) under and over the down loops, if you
begin at the top, or under and over the up loops, if you
begin at the bottom ; ( 2 ) to come down a ridge in the
second row, in order to make the top and bottom edges of
the darn irregular; ( 3 ) to darn every row, so as to pro
tect all the loops alternately on the wrong and right
sides ; ( 4) to leave loops at the end of every row to allow
of working up into the material when it is worn again,
and for shrinking in the wash. (e) When you reach the
vertical side of the hole, you must be careful to put your
needle through all the loops to make a strong and even
edge ; (f) you can now cut away any of the broken ends
lying on the surface of the darn at the left- hand side of
the hole ; (g) darn the thin place above, below , and on all
sides of the hole, the same size as the hole itself ; (h) put
your needle quite through the detached loop, either at
the top horizontal edge or the bottom, and fit it into its
proper space opposite; for instance, an up loop must be
fitted by means of a long strand of the darning wool, into
the space between two down loops, and a down loop must
be fitted into the space between two up ones ; (i) do not
pull the long vertical strands of the mending material too
tightly, nor leave them too loose, and be most careful to
see that you have put your needle quite through the loops
without splitting them . Sometimes it is necessary to put
your darning needle under the loop above or below as well
as through the one which is detached, in order to keep the
pattern of the darn the same all over the surface. ( j) Go
on dove-tailing or fitting in the detached loops, and darn
CHAP . IV DARNING ON STOCKING WEB 117
ing below and above the hole, till the right-hand vertical
edge is reached, when you must repeat what you did at
the left -hand side, and darn as much to the right of the
hole as you did to the left of it. Finish with an up row ,
and cut the wool (Fig. 63) .
Wrong Side
Hahahahahah
III
FIG . 63 .
3. Crossing the Hole .—(a) Turn the sock round, so

that the loops of the mending material are at your left
and right hand ; (b) begin a few rows away from the hole,
unless the darn requires to be re-covered on all sides of the
hole, then begin just inside the loops at the left-hand side
and darn under and over the strands of the mending
material, between the ridges (and quite through the
stocking, if it is very thin ), and leave loops at the end

of every row till the hole is reached ; (c) put your needle
under and over the loops that are stranded, without
twisting them. This is the most difficult part of the darn,
but with care and patience you will overcome the diffi
culties, and produce good and strong work . (d) Put your
needle under and over the strands which dovetail the loops
Right Side
FIG . 64,
alternately in every row of the web, while crossing the

darn, so as to fill the hole as closely as possible without
puckering or bungling (Fig. 64).
Notes. -1 . Some people prefer to dovetail the detached loops at
the top and bottom of the hole, with a needle and sewing
cotton, to prevent the loops from slipping down during the
process of darning. The sewing cotton is afterwards cut and
drawn out. 2. If you are darning a cotton sock or stocking
you must use mending cotton of the same colour, and if ladies'
and gentlemen's silk stockings and socks, you must use mend
ing silk as near as possible the same shade of colour. 3. If
the socks and stockings are fine, you must, after freeing the
loops of broken bits, endeavour to dovetail the detached
CHAP. V PATCHING WOOLLEN AND CLOTH 119
loops at first with the mending material, and then darn as for
a thin place, and dovetail the loops a second time. If the hole
is only a small one , it will not need any crossing. 4. The loops
at the sides of the darn must all be kept the same length . 5 .
The shape of the darn must correspond with the shape of the
thin place or the hole. 6. The mending material must be
a little finer than the texture of the garment to be mended.
7. Darn is an old British word that means to hide or darken.
2
8. The above method of darning a hole is called the “ common,

because it is practised in nearly all civilised countries. For
other methods of darning, see author's Text - book.
CHAPTER V
PATCHING FLANNEL, SERGE, AND CLOTH MATERIALS,

HERRINGBONE STITCH AND CORNERS
Materials needed.—A flannel petticoat, or pair of

drawers, or man's vest, needle and sewing and tacking
cotton, sewing silk, scissors, pins (hot iron, when the darn
is finished ).
1. Patching a Flannel Petticoat.—(a) We will sup
pose a hole has been worn in the petticoat close to the
centre of the band, or that this part of the garment has
been worn too thin for darning, so unpick the band over
the worn or torn part, both on the right and wrong sides,
and some little distance away on either side of the damaged
material, in order to free the petticoat, and give you
more scope to work skilfully and neatly ; (b) take a large
piece of flannel of the same colour as the garment you are
mending, and, if possible, about the same age, only strong
and sound, and place it over the damaged surface in such
a way that you are quite sure it will cover the hole and
some distance beyond it on all sides (the patch must
always be 1 or 2 inches larger than the part to be
patched ) ; (c) turn the wrong side of the garment towards
you, with the selvedge going up and down in front of
you ; (d) find the right side of the patch, and pass your
hand gently over it to see if the nap is falling downwards,
and put in a pin, as you did when making up a petticoat ;
(e) plàce the right side of the patch with nap falling in
4
IX
151 948
'12
N
113
vo
II
77거
FIG. 65. -Outer Corner.
the right direction well over the worn or torn part, with
the top edge close to the top edge of the petticoat, the
54 -41 9 +86131 12
15
en
VN
HII IO
U
FIG . 66. - Inner Corner.
selvedges matching ; ( f) press your hand upon the patch

to keep it flat and smooth, and then hold the garment and
patch up to the light to see if the patch covers the part
evenly on all sides, and if the hole is in the centre of the
patch ; (9) tack the patch five or six threads from the
СНАР . у PATCHING WOOLLEN AND CLOTH 121
edges, beginning on a selvedge side first ; (h) herringbone

the patch to the garment, beginning at the left- hand sel
vedge at the top of the petticoat, four threads above the raw
edge, and finish off atthe top of the other selvedge side,
so that you only herringbone three sides of the patch to the
garment, because the top part will be placed between the
edges of the band. (Fig. 65 shows the herringbone stitch
and outer or patch corner.) (i) Turn the right side of the
petticoat towards you, and you will see the right side of
the patch showing through the hole, and cut in a slanting
line to the two corners of
the patch by putting your
scissors under the torn gar
ment at the waist part first,
and holding it up to the
light to enable you to cut
to within eight threads of
the tacking cotton , showing
through from the wrong
side ; ( j) then cut in a
straight line from the waist
U
to the right-hand corner in
a vertical line , then across
from the right-hand to the
left- hand corner , and lastly,
from the left-hand corner FIG . 67.
to the waist again, thus
cutting away the torn and worn portion of the petticoat,
and allowing the patch to take its place ; (le) begin to
herringbone four threads from the raw edge, at the left
hand side, and at the top of the petticoat, and fasten the
petticoat to the patch on three sides. (Fig. 66 shows the
stitch and the inner or garment corner. ) Take out the
tacking cotton and well press the patch to make it lie
flat and smooth. Be sure the herringbone stitch shows
through on all sides of the garment and the patch. (0)
Now place the top part of the patch with its centre crease
under the centre of the band, and tack the band in a
proper line over the patch, and very neatly fell, being very
careful at the fastening on and off to work over a few of
the felling stitches already worked on the band ; (m ) turn
to the wrong side and fell the band,as before. Only three
joined sides can be seen. Fig. 67 shows the mended
petticoat. If the petticoat is worn out at the knee portion,
GARMENT
Patch
Wrong Side
Fig . 68.
four sides of the patch must be herring-boned to the gar

ment, etc., as in illustrations (Figs. 68 and 69 ). If there
were pleats in the petticoat before being patched, you
must replace them .
2. Patching a pair of Flannel Drawers at the Knee.
-a) Unpick the leg -band away from both sides of the
worn part and take out the pleats, and damp and press
the flannel with a warm iron to smooth it, or put a heavy
CHAP . V PATCHING WOOLLEN AND CLOTH 123
weight on it ; ( ) find a piece of flannel large enough and

strong enough to form the patch ; (c) turn the wrong
side of the garment towards you, and place the selvedges
up and down in front of you ; (d) place the right side of
the patch, with nap falling down, well over the hole on
the wrong side of the garment.
GARMENT
Patch
Right Side
FIG. 69.
N.B.-- The nap will fall towards the leg -band .

(e) tack the patch to the garment, as described in the first
lesson, and herringbone three sides ; ( f) turn the right
side of the garment towards you, and proceed as you did
with the petticoat . When the worn and torn part of the
leg is cut away, press the garment down on the patch,
and herringbone three sides ; (9) pleat the patch to match
the length of the leg-band, and then place it between the

bands, and fell the right side of the band first, or stitch
it, if it were stitched at first, and then fell the wrong side
of the band . Fig. 70 (c) shows one half of the patch
and one corner, when finished, on the right side.
3. Patching Serge.- (Fig . 70, ) These knickerbockers
are open at the sides. (a ) Unpick the back seam and a
portion of the leg seam, and press the serge well ; (b) find
a suitable piece of serge to form the patch, and shape it
to the pattern of the garment at the back seam and the
leg seam, being careful to match the selvedges, and the
nap, and twill pattern of the serge, and at the same time
carrying the patch well over the worn and torn part to
the right of the back seam. This shaping and placing
must be carefully and skilfully done. (c) Turn the wrong
side of the garment towards you,
and place the right side of the
patch on the wrong side of the
garment, matching the selvedges
and the nap, and put in a few
pins ; (d) turn the right side to
wards you, and cut away the
b
worn and torn part of the gar
ment to within inch of the
stronger part ; (e) at the corner
near b cut diagonally for 4 of an
inch, and cut the corner of the
patch for 4 of an inch diagonally,
in order to fit it in accurately ;
(f) now place the raw edges of
the patch to the raw edges of
Fig . 70. the garment, beginning at the
leg seam , and put in pins, being
careful to ease the patch a little, and yet not to fit it in
too loosely, or it will sit badly ; (9) tack the edges to
gether } an inch below the top, and take out the pins ;
(h) stitch strongly and carefully by the tacking threads,
putting the stitches close together at the corner, and over
CHAP. VÍ PATCHING CALICO 125
cast the raw edges separately ; (i) take out the tacking
cotton, and tack back each edge, and then damp the seam
with a clean wet sponge, or piece of flannel, and press well
with a hot iron .
N.B. — The overcasting is more strong if the buttonhole stitch is
employed .
( j) Refix the back and leg seams, cutting away any extra
material of the patch, in order to make it fit properly.
Fig. 70 ( ) shows the patch on the wrong side.
4. Mending Cloth .— (Fig. 70, a ) (a ) Open the seams
of the garment, as in above lesson ; (b) match the cloth in
selvedge, right side, and colour ; (c) cut a square of cloth
diagonally, and fit it over the worn part on the right side
of the drawers, then cut away the worn part diagonally.
N.B.-The diagonal patch must be larger than the worn part.
( d ) Turn the wrong side of the garment towards you, and
fit in the patch, matching the selvedge and the wrong
side, then tack from 4 to ſ of an inch from the raw
edges, and stitch with very strong thread ; (e) put an
ironing board into the garment, and lay the mended part
flat upon it, damp the seam, and then press well with a
hot iron. Fig. 70 (a) shows the seam on the wrong side .
( 5 ) Refix the leg and back seams, and fasten them to
gether again.
CHAPTER VI
PATCHING CALICO
1. Patching a Chemise.-(Fig. 71 ) We will suppose

a calico chemise has been worn out in the front of the
body by the friction of kneeling at your work . (a) Find a
piece of calico that is quite clean, and as like the texture
of the stronger part of the garment as you can get. ( If you
are compelled to use new material in any kind of flannel,
calico, or print patching, you must wash the piece intended

for the patch before you begin the mending, in order to
soften it. ) (b) Take the garment and fold the worn part
in halves down the length, and then across the width
to form creases ; and do the same with the patch, which
you have cut larger than the hole to be mended ; (c) turn
down a fold on each selvedge of the patch of an inch deep,
Fig . 71 .
and do the same across the width, and well crease the folded
edges ; (el) turn the wrong side of the garment towards
you, and place the patch with the folds downwards upon
the garment, making all the creases match, and the hole
lie under the centre of the patch ; (e) tack close to the
cdges of the patch, and then neatly fell ( or fell the wrong
side, after all the fixing is completed ) ; ( f) turn the right
side of the garment towards you, and cut away all the
worn and torn part of the garment to a little more than
СНАР. ТІ PATCHING CALICO 127
1 inch from the felling stitches ; (g) the sides must be

cut quite straight, and the garment portion surrounding
the felling stitches must be the same in depth on all the
sides ; (h) cut up to the corners of the garment diagonally
for of an inch, and turn folds of this depth along the
selvedges first, and then across the width, being careful to
turn all the raw edges under at the corners ; (i) tack the
garment to the patch, and then press up the edges of the
patch to the edges of the garment, and begin to seam in
the middle of a selvedge side, and put in a few extra
stitches at the corners for strength ; ( j) take out the tack
ings and flatten the seams, and press the fells.
Notes.-- 1. Hold the patch towards you while seaming, in order
to prevent any puckering or any looseness. 2. There are
several other methods of fixing a calico patch , c.g. ( a) by
counter -fell. This method is useful when the garment has
been worn a long time, and is also the best method of fixing a
patch on old sheets and tablecloths. ( 6 ) By fixing a double
fold on all sides of the patch , and cutting away all the worn
and torn part of the garment, cutting up each corner diagon
ally, and fixing one fold on all the sides, and then fixing in
the patch on the right side of the garment, and seaming on the
right side and felling on the wrong. This fixing is by sew
and - fell seam . The patch must be cut with the utmost nicety
and accuracy to fit well into the gap made in the garment,
and the fells must not be caught in at the corners . (c) Another
method is to fix a wide fold on all sides of the patch , begin
ning with the selvedges, and then raising squares at the
corners ( these squares when held diagonally resemble a
bishop's mitre ), then fix the patch well over the hole on the
right side, and tack and seam the patch to the garment, being
careful not to seam in any portion of the mitres at the corners.
Turn the wrong side of the garment towards you, and cut
away all the worn part of the garment, as far as 1 or $ of an
inch, and pull the corners diagonally to stretch them , then
pull out the mitres, and the fell of the patch will come with
them , and form a border outside the seaming stitches. Turn
under a fold , and fell the patch to the garment. The effect of
this method of fixing is still by sew -and -fell seam . It is an
excellent method for fine calico , and varieties of cotton goods,
e.g. as nainsook and mull muslin .
2. Patching a Shirt under the Arm.—We will

suppose the shirt is made of Oxford shirting or calico,
and that the garment has been torn away from the
sleeve and the binder under the arm by the constant
movements of the arm in some manual labour. (a) Unpick
the sleeves, and the binders from the sleeves, and the side
seam of the shirt ; (b) get a piece of the same kind of
material as the shirt, and large enough to cover the damaged
part well, and to allow of shaping to match the curves at the
armholes and sides, and for turnings at these parts. (If
the armholes and sides are quite straight, only allow for
turnings at these places.) (c) This kind of patch is better
fixed by counter-fell, so turn down a 4-inch fold on the one
selvedge, and then the two woof sides, and press the edges
firmly ; (d ) place the patch well over the worn part, and
on the stronger material, and tack, and then fell neatly and
strongly at the two corners ; (e) turn to the wrong side,
and cut away all the worn and torn part for } or of an
inch from the felling stitches showing through ; (f ) cut up
at each corner 4 of an inch, and turn a fold under down
the selvedge side, and then across the woof, and tack the
fell evenly to a thread ; (g) fell neatly, and take out all
the tackings ; (1) fix the side seam, being careful to press
the fells on the garment quite flat to make them sit
well at the side seam ; (i) then fell the binder to the
shirt, and replace the sleeve by fixing it between the
binder and the shirt, pressing the fells on the garment as
flat as possible to prevent a clumsy cobble, and then set
in the sleeve as described in making up this garment. Fig.
46 shows the patch on the right side.
3. Patching the Leg of Calico Drawers.-(a ) Unpick
more than half of the leg-band and the leg seam ; (b) get
a piece of calico large enough to form halfof the widthof
the leg, with allowance for shaping at the leg seam and
turnings ; (c) turn down a fold from an inch on the sel
vedge of the patch to be placed at the side of the leg in a
line with the hip opening, and then at the top slanting
line across the width of the patch, and mitre the corners ;
СНАР. І PATCHING CALICO 129
( d ) lay the patch on the right side of the garment, with the
straight selvedge side a little beyond the crease of the
half leg, and in a perfectly straight line with the selvedge
of the garment, and tack it close to the edge, along this
and the slanting side ; (e) seam the two edges, then take
out the tackings, and flatten the seams ; ( f) turn to the
wrong side and cut away the worn part, as described in
II
II
II
I
' 流
TIG. 72.
Method (C) ; pull out the mitres, and fix the patch, and
fell to the garment; (g) then see that the patch fits the
curve of the leg, and fix it to match the rest of the leg
seam, and put in the stitches. Take out the tacking
threads , and well press the sew-and-fell seams of the patch ,
and the leg ; ( h) re-gather or pleat the leg into the knee
bands, and you will have finished the mending . Fig. 72
shows the patch on the right side.
K
>
CHAPTER VII
PATCHING A PRINT GARMENT
Materials needed.—A torn print pinafore, or apron, or
o
0
O
O
O
o
O
O
O
o
O
O 30
O
O
30
O
O
O
O
o
O
O
O
o
o
O
O
0 O
o O
O o
O
0 O o
O
O
O
o O
O
O
O
O
0
O
o o O O
O
O
FIG. 73 .
gown, a piece of the same pattern, scissors, pins, tacking

and sewing cotton.
Method.— (a) Wash the print that you have found will
be large enough to cover the hole, and match the pattern,
to make the colours less vivid and more like the torn gar
CHAP. VII PATCHING A PRINT GARMENT 131
ment, which probably has been washed many times before

it was worn into a hole,
or accidentally torn ; (6)
the garment must be un
starched when it is being
repaired ; (c) keep the 1
right side of the garment 1
towards you, and again
match the pattern on
mik
the patch with that on
the garment ; (d) fix folds Wrong Side
on the selvedges first, FIG . 74.
and then on the woof
w
‫ ܢܢ̈ܐ‬P
Fig. 75 .
sides, and while fixing

the patch be careful
to match the pattern ;
(e) tack the patch to
I thegarment, still being
watchful not to dis
1 place the pattern ; ( f )
seam the patch to the
garment, beginning on
+ THROA ! a selvedge side first ;
(9) take out the tack
ing cotton and press
Wrong Side the seams ; (h) turn to
FIG . 76.
the wrong side and
cut away the worn part, even to a thread, to the same
depth as the turnings on the patch ; (i) then overcast the
edges together, either by buttonhole stitch, or long seam

ing stitches, from left to right. Figs. 73, 74, and 75
show the right and wrong sides, and two methods of
overcasting. Fig. 76 gives another method of fixing and
overcasting the wrong side of a print patch. The first
method given in the lesson is simpler and stronger than the
second method of finishing off thewrong side, but the second
method makes a flatter patch, and is better for ironing.
CHAPTER VIII
REPAIRING HOUSE LINEN, ETC.
1. Sheets and Tablecloths.—Sheets and tablecloths

generally wear out more quickly in the centre, and they
are sometimes torn at the edges and corners. When they
are worn out in the centre and the selvedges are good and
strong, the best method is to unpick the hems at the sel
vedge corners , and to place the selvedges together , and
seam them on the right side, and flatten the seam , then
fold the article exactly in the middle , and cut along the
crease , then cut away all the worn parts in straight , even
lines , and fix hems at the sides . By this method the
sides become the centre, and the centre the sides . If
much of the centre has been cut away , the sheet or table
cloth can be used for a smaller bed or table . If sheets
are too much worn to be repaired in this way, they can
be cut up and made into pillow -slips ; and tablecloths can
be made into traycloths and table napkins .
2. Sheets, Pillow- slips, Tablecloths, etc., can be repaired
by darning or patching, before they are cut up for other
household purposes. The darns are Thin Place, Cross Cut,
Twill and Wave, and Damask . The latter is made in
imitation of the pattern on the tablecloth, and requires
much time and patience to be done effectually and well.
CH. VIII GIRL'S OUTFIT OF UNDERCLOTHING 133
3. Renewing Parts of Garments. — A good mother or

nurse will examine all parts of the clothing of the children
every night, and will put on new buttons when these have
been pulled off (and new tape strings), and darn or patch
fractures in the frocks and pinafores ; and set aside worn
socks and stockings to be washed preparatory to being
G
44 " ---73B
Back
1
15 " 16"
lf and
Ha B .
Front
16
Fig . 77.
darned. Chemises often need new sleeves and trimming,

and shirts require new wristbands, collars, and front folds
(or fronts), and these can all be renewed by the thoughtful,
thrifty mother or sister. Darning, and patching, and
renewing are all means of saving, and when girls are
trained to mend and repair their own clothing, and that
of others in the household, they are made thrifty, tidy,
and industrious members of a community.
A PLAIN OUTFIT OF UNDERCLOTHING FOR A GIRL

BETWEEN 15 AND 17 YEARS OF AGE.
Every girl who is obliged to earn her livelihood early

in life should possess a small stock of good, strong under
clothing when she enters her first situation. English
school-girls are not, as a rule, so well off in this respect as
French girls, for the latter very rarely leave their day
schools without a small and suitable outfit, made by
themselves . When a stock has been formed, it should be
kept in constant repair, and steadily replaced. The
following table gives a few necessary articles for a working
girl's outfit, with the quantities of material required.
NUMBER OF GARMENTS. QUANTITIES OF MATERIAL.
3 Chemises 2 dozen yards of calico.
3 Pairs of Drawers There will be sufficient over
3 Nightgowns for petticoat bands.
2 Flannel Petticoats 3 yards of flannel in each .
2 Petticoat Bodices 2 yards of gray twill calico.
1 Blue or Brown Serge Petticoat 3 yards of serge .
3 Pairs of Hand -knitted Stockings about 1 lb. of wool .
INDEX
APRON, 1 , 8 Drawers, children's, 34, 60

) girl's, 37
BARROW-COAT, 101 infant's first size, 32, 59
Binders, 32, 47, 49, 53, 76 knickerbockers, 34
Binding skirts, 98 girls' and women's, 36
Bodice seams, 64 Drawing lessons, cross cut, 108
Boys' shirts, 45 hedge tear, 112
Buttonholes, 18
Buttonhole corners , round and EDGING, knitted , 104
braced, 20 Evening schools' code, iv.
Buttonhole stitch , 18 Eyelet -holes, 95
Buttons, linen, 16
pierced, 18 False hems on the cross, 69
straight, 47 , 68
Calico patching, 125 Feather-stitch, 98
Casing bones, 97 Fishbone stitch, 110
Chemises, women's and girls', 26 , Flannel drawers, 60
31
patching, 119
children's, 32 petticoats, 3, 13
Children's petticoats, 5 seams , 13
Cloth patching, 125 Front folds, 29
Collars, 79, 93
Coral stitch, 99 GATHERS, 53
Corners, herringbone stitch, 120 Girl's stocking, 103
Counter -hemming, 65
Cross-cut darn , 108 Gored chemise, 29
Crosswise material, how to cut, 69 Gussets, 7, 23, 46, 47
Cuff, 44
HEDGE- TEAR darn , stitches, 113
DARNING, holes in socks and stock - Herringbone stitch, 119
ings, 115 Hooks and eyes, 97
9 ) thin places on dresses,
114 ILLUSTRATIONS, ix.
9 in a patch, 106 Infant's shirt, 6, 22
Dimensions of a child's, and of a
girl's petticoat, 5 LADDERS, 105
136 NEEDLEWORK
MAKING a band, 10, 16 Scales for nightgowns, 95

Man's sock , 102 shirts, 47
Mantua -maker's hem , 64 . 91 sock, man's, 102
Muslin pinafore, 39 99 stocking, girl's, 103
Seams, various kinds, 64
NAP, 4 , 13 Setting in gathers, 55
Niglitgown, child's, 88 Sew - and -fell seam , 52
woman's, 85, 89 Sewing on tapes, -bands and bibs,
12 , 13
OUTFIT of underclothing, girl's, 99 dusters, etc. , 101
133 pillow -slips, 100
Overalls, 41 , 71 Shoulder -straps, 77
Overcasting , 98 , 131 Sleeves, chemise, 27, 30
Stitching, 18
PILLOW- CASE chemise, 26 Strengthening tapes, 7, 22, 24
Pinafores, 38 Stroking gathers, 54
Placket hole, 15
Pleating, 8
Print patching, 130 TABLECLOTHS, 132
Proportion, 11 Tape strings, 11
Tucks, 56
REPAIRING household linen , 132 Twill darn, 107
Renewing parts of garments, 133
Run - and- fell seam , 66 WAVE darn, 107
Running stitch , 58 Wristbands, 46, 49, 92
SCALES for chemises, women's and
girls ', 32 YOKE neckbands, 30, 39, 54
THE END
Printed by R. & R. CLARK , Edinburgh .

9
NOV 24 1942

A Manual of Needlework Knitting and Cutt

Transféré par

Droits d'auteur :

Formats disponibles

A Manual of Needlework Knitting and Cutt

Transféré par

Informations du document

Titre original

Copyright

Formats disponibles

Partager ce document

Partager ou intégrer le document

Options de partage

Avez-vous trouvé ce document utile ?

Ce contenu est-il inapproprié ?

Droits d'auteur :

Formats disponibles

A Manual of Needlework Knitting and Cutt

Transféré par

Droits d'auteur :

Formats disponibles

A propos de ce livre

À propos du service Google Recherche de Livres

NEEDLEWORK , KNITTING, AND

WITH ORIGINAL ILLUSTRATIONS AND SECTIONAL DIAGRAMS

All rights reserved

To cut out garments requiring only straight or slanting lines, i.e. a

KNITTING AND MENDING COURSE

HON . MRS . EDMUND COLBORNE

H.M. DIRECTRESS OF NEEDLEWORK

IS AFFECTIONATELY AND RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED

IN RECOGNITION OF HER WORTH AS

AND OF HER UNFAILING COURTESY AND SYMPATHY

This Manual of Needlework, Knitting, and Cutting Out

STOCKWELL TRAINING COLLEGE,

EVENING Schools' CODE iv

PART 1. -SEWING COURSE

1. Cutting out : Apron, Petticoats, Infant's Shirt 1

2. Construction : Making up a Woman's Apron and Petti

and Scales for the same 32

4. Construction : Making up a Woman's Chemise, Children's

Stitches : Gathers and Setting in, Tucks, Running, various

5. Cutting out Woman's Nightgown, a Saddle Yoke . 85

Construction : Making up a Woman's Nightgown, with

Scale of Proportions for Nightgowns 95

6. Eyelet-Holes, casing Bones, Hooks and Eyes, binding

7. Sewing on Tapes : Pillow -slips, Towels, Dusters, Pinafores,

PART II . —KNITTING AND MENDING COURSE

1. Scales for a Man's Pair of Socks and a Girl's Pair of Stock

ings ; a Knitted Edging, taking up a Ladder 102

2. Darning : Thin Place on Fiannel, etc. , Darning in a Patch ,

3. Cross -cut and Hedge -tear Darns 108

4. Darning Thin Places and Holes in Socks and Stockings 114

5. Patching : Flannel, Serge, Cloth, Herringbone Stitch, and

6. Patching : Calico Chemise, Shirt, Drawers 125

7. Patching : Print Garments . 130

8. Repairing Sheets, Tablecloths, etc. , and renewing Parts

2. Woman's Petticoat - Diagram 4

3. Child's Petticoat -- Made up 5

4. Infant's Shirt - by Folding 6

5. Infant's Shirt - Sectional Diagram 7

7. Fixed Tape String 11

8. Tape on Wrong Side of Band 12

9. Tape on Right Side of Band 12

10. Flannel Seam in Petticoat 14

12. Placket Hole of Petticoat . 15

15. A Pierced Button . 18

17. Round Corners -- Knotted and Braced 20

18. Infant's First Shirt - Made up 24

19. Strengthening Tape 25

22. without a Gusset 30

36. Setting in Gathers 55

52. Woman's Nightgown - Made up 94

54. Tapes on Pillow-slip 100

55. Tapes on Dusters and Towels 100

56. Darning - Oblong Pattern 105

60. Hedge Tear - Oblongs 113

65. Herringbone- Outer Corner 120

69. ‫وو‬ Right Side 123

70. Drawers — Patched (a ) ( 6) (c) 124