Pomo de cemento con forma de bombilla

por loro102
Tabla de contenidos
introduccin: Pomo de cemento con forma de bombilla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..2
Paso 1: Materiales y herramientas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Paso 2: Hueco en el cascillo de la bombilla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Paso 3: Mezcla del hormign . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Paso 4: Llenar bombilla con la mezcla de mortero . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Paso 5: Poner perno y terminar el rellenado de la mezcla de mortero . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Paso 6: Romper cristal de la bombilla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Paso 7: Colocarlo en la pared . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13



introduccin: Pomo de cemento con forma de bombilla
Paso 1: Materiales y herramientas
Usted necesitar un rea de trabajo donde la arena y un poco de mezcla de hormign o
fragmentos de vidrio no sea un problema.Asegrese de que tiene un pequeo cepillo y
recogedor disponibles en todo momento.
Normalmente, usted espera hasta el final para romper la bombilla, pero puede ocurrir en
cualquier momento de este proceso. Por lo tanto, estar preparados para la limpieza
desde el principio.
HERRAMIENTAS:
- Un par de alicates pequeos
- Un par de tenazas pequeas
- Un destornillador pequeo
- Un carburo de escriba. Puede usar un punzn o un clavo.
- Un recipiente de plstico
- Un trozo de madera para mezclar con el hormign. Puede usar una cuchara de madera
vieja o algo as si es necesario.
- Una cuchara de plstico para poner la mezcla de hormign en la bombilla.
- Una taza de medir y cucharas de medir para agregar la cantidad correcta de mezcla de
hormign y el agua.
- un cepillo de dientes que no va a utilizar nunca ms para los dientes.
- agitador de caf y vasos de plstico
- Guantes y gafas de seguridad. Se debe, porque la bombilla de cristal y se rompe a
menudo poco fragmentos van volando en todas direcciones, incluyendo directamente en
los ojos.
- Otros elementos.
MATERIALES:
-"Concreto" es una mezcla de cemento, agua y agregados. Mi investigacin demostr
que una mezcla de arena, tambin conocido como mezcla de mortero, es buena cuando
se utiliza un molde de superficie lisa, como el interior de una bombilla. Se da un alto
brillo cuando esta seca. Una mezcla de arena es diferente al de su genrico concretas en
que los agregados no tiene grava, slo varios tamaos de arena. Me decid a hacerlo con
la mezcla de mortero en lugar de la genrica.
- Mezcla de mortero.
- Bombillas.





- Agua. Tendr un valor de aproximadamente 4 cucharadas.He tenido una botella de
agua cerca en el banco y lo recargado del grifo cuando sea necesario.
- Pernos. Estoy usando un 5 / 16 "saeta, de 3,5" de largo. 5 / 16 "fue el mayor tamao de
los pernos que podra encajar en la bombilla sin cortar la cabeza. Yo no quera hacer
esto porque la cabeza del tornillo ofrece mucho agarre cuando se inscribe en el
hormign. Con un perno de 5 / 16 "de dimetro, que puede perforar la pared en un 1 /
4" agujero para obtener un buen equilibrio entre la adherencia y la facilidad de
instalacin. En otras palabras, se convierte fcilmente en la pared an tiene muy bien.

Paso 2: Vaciado de la bombilla
Puede vaciar la bombilla con un dremel aunque es posible hacerlo con los alicates
aunque es ms costoso. Hacerlo con una papelera y, a menudo, agite la bombilla a lo
largo de la
papelera para deshacerse de los fragmentos de vidrio. Llevar gafas de seguridad en todo
momento. Ms de una vez algunos de vidrio vol hacia mi cara cuando me estaba
haciendo esto.
En primer lugar, la empuadura de metal crculo con una burbuja de soldadura en el
centro de la parte inferior de la bombilla con sus pinzas y palanca suavemente hasta que
la oscuridad de la prpura de vidrio aislante. Esto es
tirando de un alambre en el medio que desea romper, as que tire de ella hacia fuera.
Una vez hecho esto, tome su escribano de carburo y ms de un bote de basura,
entrometerse en el agujero que acaba de realizar en la prpura de vidrio aislante y
prpura que romper el vidrio. Quieres
eliminar todos los prpura de vidrio aislante de la bombilla cuerpo. Yo uso el escriba
algunas grietas para iniciar y levantar una parte del mismo, entonces un seguimiento con
el destornillador para obtener el
resto. Gire la bombilla al revs y agitar todos los pedazos de vidrio que se han quedado
dentro.





En su interior hay un pequeo tubo de vidrio atiza hasta en el vidrio aislante salga si es
que est roto. Si no es as, haga palanca con el destornillador en contra de ella hasta que
quede suelto. Vaciar en la papelera.
Ahora usted tiene un agujero en la parte inferior de la bombilla. En este punto tomar los
alicates y doblar suavemente sobre el metal pestaas en la parte interior del agujero de
modo que no sea "labio" en la parte interior. Ms tarde, cuando haya roto el resto de las
piezas dentro,sacdalo hasta que no pueda vaciar mas.
Debera haber un hilo visible dentro del soldado que al lado de la pieza de metal de
rosca. Tome sus tenazas y corte el alambre lo ms cerca posible del lado de la bombilla
como sea posible.
Ahora, en el interior tiene un cilindro de vidrio que usted necesita romper y limpie los
bordes para terminar el trabajo. Lleve a su escribano o destornillador y empujelohasta el
fondode la bombilla hasta que tope resistencia. fuercelo suavemente hasta que algo se
rompe. Luego, utilizando el destornillador, la palanca contra el lado de la bombilla para
limpiar cualquier resto de vidrio .
Usted desea que el cuello de la bombilla que se desprende de todo el agujero hacia abajo
del cuerpo. A su vez ms de la bombilla y agtelo a cabo una vez ms para deshacerse
de la ltima pieza de vidrio flotante suelto.
Tome un cepillo de dientes seco y al mismo tiempo, empuje en la bombilla y empezar a
soltar el polvo blanco seco. Especialmente en el cuello de la ampolla. No se preocupe si
usted no puede obtener cosas con el cepillo ya que no puede llegar en este momento. He
encontrado que la bombilla se limpia ms fcil si lo haces aflojar el polvo blanco en el
cuello antes de que llegara a mojarse.
Ahora llenar la pileta y aadir un poco de agua y jabn. Alrededor de la bombilla con el
cepillo de dientes y agitar hasta obtener una bombilla limpia. Saque el cepillo de dientes
y lavar a continuacin el agua jabonosa de la bombilla. En este punto, todo est limpio y
agradable dentro de los residuos sin ningn tipo de jabn. Djelo a un lado a secar.
Ahora es el momento de mezclar el hormign.










Paso 3: Mix up the Concrete
This is the part that's more art than science. I've found that in the small batches this
project calls for, it's very easy to add too much or too little water to the mix. When you
are mixing an entire sixty pound bag of concrete, being off a teaspoon on the water
doesn't matter that much. When you are mixing up just a cup of concrete, that
teaspoon starts to matter.
Mortar mix when cured in a glass mold like we are using gives a very nice gloss
surface. The lower the amount of water you use, the smoother and like glass the surface
is, and the stronger the resulting cured concrete is. However, the lower the amount of
water you use, the harder it is to have it fill in the gaps on the sides and it leaves
lots of holes and divots. It's getting the mix liquid enough to spread out but not too
liquid that it looses it's strength is one of the issues on the water to dry mix ratio.
Finding the correct compromise between these two issues is really a matter of practice
and personal taste, I would suggest you play around with it in multiple bulbs if you
are interested in getting the best result you can.
The ratio I've found works well is about 1.25 cups of the mortar mix and a hair under
four tablespoons of water. So measure out a little under four tablespoons of water
and put that into your plastic tub. This is more mortar mix than you need to fill a
lightbulb, but there is always some spillage and trying to reduce the amount means even
more accuracy on the water measurement. This is a good place to start.
Slowly mix in the mortar mix a little at a time. Let a little bit get wet, then a little more,
then a little more while stiring the hole thing. It's a bit like making biscuit dough at
this level, but your pouring the dry into the wet instead of the other way around. The
consistency should be good enough that the mortar mix wants to stick together in one
large clump, but it isn't sopping wet. If you feel you need to add more water or mortar
mix to get it correct, then go for it. Just do it a little bit at a time. A small amount of
either material make a large impact at this point.
Once it's at a consistency you like, keep stirring nice and slow for a few minutes. You
want everything to be throughly wetted as much as possible.
Important! At this moment the clock starts and you have 30 to 45 minutes to finish the
lightbulb before the mortar mix starts to harden up.
Once you have throughly mixed up the mortar mix, bring out the lightbulb and start
filling it up.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Concrete-Lightbulb-Wall-Hook/





Image Notes
1. A cup and a quarter of the mortar mix ready to be mixed up.
2. Water and tablespoon at the ready.
Image Notes
1. Add a bit under four tablespoons to your tub
Image Notes
1. Slowly pour in the dry mortar mix to the water while stirring.
Image Notes
1. Starting to get there. It's just reaching the point where it wants to clump up in
one large ball
http://www.instructables.com/id/Concrete-Lightbulb-Wall-Hook/




Image Notes
1. Yum. Bake at 375 degrees for 12 minutes... wait, sorry, wrong instructable.
step 4: Start filling up the lightbulb with the mortar mix.
You are working on a time limit at this point as the mortar mix starts to set. If you can
get it all done in thirty minutes or so it should be fine.
Put your lightbulb into a small plastic tub with the hole pointing upwards. When you are
adding the mix there is always spillage and you don't want that all over your work
area. I put a little bit of sand in the bottom so it will stay straight early on, once you add
a few spoonfuls of the mortar mix it stands up straight on it's own.
Take a plastic spoon and scoop up a level amount of the wet mortar mix. Holding the
end of the spoon over the hole in the lightbulb, use your finger on the other hand to
push it down into the hole. Some will spill over the edges of the hole, that's ok. You
made almost twice the volume of mortar mix as will go into the lightbulb.
After four or five spoonfuls into the lightbulb, you want to vibrate it so the mortar mix
liquefies and spreads out evenly on the inside. Shake it back and forth to make it
liquefy. If there is an air bubble visable on the side that just won't fill in no matter how
you shake, tap it repeatedly with your fingertip. moves the the bubble up and the
liquid towards the tapping.
Do these steps, a handful of scoops and then much shaking and taping to fill in the gaps
and make it all liquid like until you reach half way up the neck of the bulb. At that
point it's time to add the lag bolt.
Image Notes
1. small plastic tub to catch the spillage
2. A scoop of the wet mix in the plastic spoon, using your other hand to feed it
Image Notes
into the lightbulb
1. This is before any shaking - the mix needs to be vibrated and tapped to
spread out and coat the inside of the bulb.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Concrete-Lightbulb-Wall-Hook/




Image Notes
1. Whole lot of shaking going on. You are doing a lot of this and tapping the sides
Image Notes
with your fingers to fill in air pockets and make it liquefy inside the bulb.
1. after shaking and tapping, it's starting to liquefy and spread out.
Image Notes
1. Getting there. At this point it's time to add the lag bolt to the lightbulb.
step 5: Put in the lag bolt and finish up adding the mortar mix.
Before putting in the lag bolt, mark off with a sharpie where 1.5" is from the pointy end
so you know how far to push it down.
Put the lag bolt into the mortar mix. Because the lightbulb shape has some undercutting
with the mold, the mortar mix wants to clump up in the middle of the bulb and not
grip the sides. You can use the head of the lag bolt to tap down the pile in the middle of
the bulb so it starts filling in all the gaps.
Keep adding mortar mix around the lag bolt to fill it up. Holding the lag bolt firmly to
make sure it does not rattle, keep shaking the bulb and tapping the sides to fill in gaps
and liquefy the mortar mix.
Take a coffee stirrer you "borrowed" from Starbucks and use that to tap down the
mortar mix. You want to keep adding the mix, tamp and fill, tamp and fill. Finally the
entire bulb is all done and you are tamping on the top. You want the mortar mix to be
level with the top of the hole but not sticking out in a bulge.
When you are all done, put the lightbulb with the lag bolt pointing up in a spare plastic
cup. The ones I used where also borrowed from Starbucks. Take a rag and clean
up the metal threaded part of the lightbulb as well as you can - you don't want the
mortar mix drying on it.
Set this to the side for at least 72 hours to let the mortar mix cure. I normally write the
date it was made on the glass with a Sharpie so I can keep track.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Concrete-Lightbulb-Wall-Hook/




Image Notes
Image Notes
1. tap it down with a coffee stirrer you borrow from Starbucks. You can always
1. Adding wet mortar mix around the lag bolt.
give it back to them when you are done.
Image Notes
1. It's all tamped down and shaken and looks like the sides are filled. The
threaded metal part of the bulb has been cleaned off with a rag. Set this aside for
at least 72 hours to let the mortar mix cure.
step 6: Crack the lightbulb
Let the mortar mix cure for at least 72 hours. A few days more is a good thing.
This is the part where you are breaking up the lightbulb glass into little bits and pieces
on purpose.
Glass will be flying in all directions, wear safety glasses and at least one glove (like in
the pictures) at all times!
Over a trash can, hold the bulb in one hand that has a glove on it. I've tried to use gloves
on both hands at this stage and didn't have the fine control I wanted. You might
be able to do it.
Taking a hard metal object, start striking the side of the lightbulb. I'm using my carbride
scribe. The glass with start to crack and form spider web fractures. Keep hitting.
Eventually small pieces will fall and/or fly off of the bulb. When you have formed a
good number of cracks around the bulb, take a toothbrush and scrub it vigorously over
the entire bulb. . This will brush into the trashcan any glass grit or loose pieces.
Then take your carbide scribe (or awl or sharp nail) and start to pry up the edges of the
glass left on the bulb. Some of it will come off in large chunks, some of it will come
off a little piece at a time. Try to aim for the trashcan but know that it won't all go in
there, some of it will pop up and go in any direction. If a large piece of glass doesn't
want to come up and doesn't have any cracks in it, beat it with the metal object some
more to create the spider web. Every so often take the toothbrush and rub down the
lightbulb to get rid of any ground in glass or loose bits.
When all the glass has been removed from the lightbulb, take your scribe and carefully
go around the neck of the bulb where the metal met the glass. Make sure there
http://www.instructables.com/id/Concrete-Lightbulb-Wall-Hook/





are no loose glass shards under the lip of the metal. Shake and tap the bulb to see what
floats loose. When you are done, take a shop brush and run it over the entire
bulb one more time to get any glass grit or loose pieces out of the holes in the concrete.
It's done! The mortar mix often leaves pits and holes even with all that shaking and
tapping you did, but I think it adds a bit of character to the whole thing and makes
each one you do unique. Feel the glossy smooth glass finish on the bulb and how it
reflects the light. Now it's time to mount it!
Image Notes
1. Tapping the lightbulb over a trashcan to create cracks and get some of the
glass to fall off the bulb. This is the really dangerous step so be careful
Image Notes
1. The bulb after much whacking
Image Notes
Image Notes
1. Prying off the glass on the bulb piece by piece with the carbide scribe. It likes
1. Brushing it off to get all the loose glass and especially glass grit off the bulb
to fly off sometimes so be careful.
and into the trash can
http://www.instructables.com/id/Concrete-Lightbulb-Wall-Hook/







Image Notes
Image Notes
1. Brushing the whole thing down with the shop brush to get out the last of the
1. Cleaning up the neck of the bulb where the metal meets the glass. Want to
debris.
make sure there is no glass showing or that could come loose later.
Image Notes
Image Notes
1. All set with a very nice surface
1. It's done! Look at the high gloss smooth finish on that sucker. The holes give it
character.
Image Notes
1. A bit of a crater, but it adds character
http://www.instructables.com/id/Concrete-Lightbulb-Wall-Hook/





Image Notes
1. Smooth as glass.
step 7: Mount it on the wall
Now that you have this killer Concrete Lightbulb Wall Hook, it's time to mount it into
the wall. The steps here are fairly simple.
1) Find the stud. This wants a wood stud in the wall. There are multiple ways to find a
wood stud, I'm using a cheapie stud finder.
2) Drill the hole. Using a 1/4" drill bit, drill a hole 1.5" deep into the wall.
3) Screw it in. The hole is big enough that you can can screw it in, but the bite is good
enough that it can hold just about anything you want to hang off it. Heavy
overcoats, small children, whatever strikes your fancy.
4) Hang your hat. Or you could use it as a hat hook. It's all good.