Mélissa Le Nevé (born July 8, 1989) is a French professional rock climber specializing in competition bouldering, but and also in outdoor sport climbing and bouldering.[1]
 ISFC Boulder World Cup, Vienne, 2010 | |||||||||||||||
| Personal information | |||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | French | ||||||||||||||
| Born | 8 July 1989 | ||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional rock climber | ||||||||||||||
| Height | 169 cm (5 ft 7 in) | ||||||||||||||
| Weight | 50 kg (110 lb) | ||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | |||||||||||||||
| Highest grade | |||||||||||||||
| Known for | First female free ascent of Action Directe 9a (5.14d) | ||||||||||||||
| Retired | 2016 (competition) | ||||||||||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on 20 January 2022 | |||||||||||||||
Early life
editLe Nevé grew up in the Vosges until she was 10, and later began climbing at age 15, at a gym near Bordeaux.
Climbing career
editCompetition climbing
editLe Nevé focused her competition climbing career on the discipline of bouldering. Le Nevé was the French women's bouldering champion in 2010 and 2013, placed fourth in the 2011 IFSC Bouldering World Cup overall standings, and placed 2nd at individual IFSC World Cup events in Slovenia (2013), Switzerland (2016), and Japan (2016).[1][2][3] She retired from competitive climbing in 2016, after finishing third in that year's IFSC Bouldering World Cup.[4][5]
Rock climbing
editIn 2015, she became the first woman to climb a set of boulders in Fontainebleau called the "Big Five", one of which–Atrésie–is rated 8A (V11).[6] In December 2016, she climbed an 8B (V13) boulder in Fontainebleau, La Cicatrice de L'Ohm.[7] In 2017, she climbed the 8B+ (V14) problem, Mécanique élémentaire, at Fontainebleau.[8]
Le Nevé has also climbed some of the hardest outdoor sport climbing routes. In 2014, she made the first female free ascent (FFFA) of Wallstreet, an 8c (5.14b) sport climbing route in the Frankenjura.[9][10] In April 2020, she made the first free female ascent of Wolfgang Güllich's iconic route Action Directe (XI, 9a) in Frankenjura.[11][12][13]
Personal life
editShe lives in Fontainebleau.[1][14]
Filmography
edit- Le Nevé's 2020 ascent of Action Directe: Lowell, Josh (director), Mortimer, Peter (director) (2020). ReelRock 15 (Motion picture). Sender Films. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
References
edit
- ^ a b c Mélissa Le Nevé, Petzl, retrieved 2016-04-30.
- ^ "Shauna Coxsey and Alexey Rubtsov win Meiringen Bouldering World Cup", PlanetMountain, April 16, 2016.
- ^ Berry, Natalie (April 26, 2016), "Another Gold for Shauna Coxsey in Japan", UK Climbing.
- ^ "Mélissa Le Nevé retires from the World Cups", OnBouldering, November 10, 2016
- ^ Loury, Charles (November 8, 2016), "Interview exclusive de Mélissa Le Neve: elle tourne la page des compétitions", Planet Grimpe (in French)
- ^ Pohl, Björn (March 2015), "Melissa Le Nevé climbs Big Five", UK Climbing.
- ^ "8B's for Le Nevé and Sinnhuber", OnBouldering, December 13, 2016. See also video of her climb, Relais Vertical, December 19, 2016.
- ^ "Mélissa Le Nevé becomes first woman to boulder 8B+ at Fontainebleau". PlanetMountain.com. 23 March 2017. Retrieved 20 January 2022.
- ^ "Mélissa Le Nevé, first female ascent of Wallstreet in the Frankenjura", PlanetMountain, May 14, 2014
- ^ "Mélissa Le Nevé, the Wallstreet interview". PlanetMountain.com. 15 May 2014. Retrieved 20 January 2022.
- ^ "Mélissa Le Nevé Becomes First Woman To Climb "Action Directe" (9a/5.14d)". Rock & Ice. 21 May 2020. Retrieved 20 January 2022.
- ^ "Melissa Le Nevé Sends Action Directe 5.14d". Gripped.com. 21 May 2020. Retrieved 20 January 2020.
- ^ Honneger, Jasmine (26 August 2022). "Use Your Curiosity To Become A Better Climber". Climbing. Retrieved 9 September 2022.
- ^ "Melissa Le Nevé, Rock Climber", Athletes & ambassadors, Adidas, retrieved 2016-04-30.
External links
edit- MELISSA LE NEVE, IFSC Database
- VIDEO: What Gets Melissa Le Nevé Out Of Bed In The Morning, Rock & Ice (February 2021)
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