You'll work a few days then have class time a few days. @Deleted User can tell you all about it

I'm still in the process of getting started/accepted, but yeah. I was told class every Wednesday and the first (?) Saturday of every month.

Other than that, you're working 40 hour weeks and most likely overtime!

I think they start you off at $14 an hour and you get a 25% raise every year, as an apprentice. Might depend on the company that you get set up with.

@Deleted User thanks for the information bro. Good luck on your journey.

@wolfwood you too

Local 369 in Louisville they have a five-year apprenticeship program. You will work steady for 5 years with no layoffs and less work is super slow and at the end of your 5th Year you will turn out as a journeyman and go sign the book. These guys usually work through the day and we'll go to school one or two evenings a week

@Deleted User is that separate from IBEW?

Naw.

No it is IBEW Local 369. The local chapter here in Louisville. I was in for a while although I did my apprenticeship through the independent contractors here in town. But the union does have a five-year apprenticeship program

Word, I didn't go through the union. Self made man. Haha

I've always worked for guys 20-30 years older

@wolfwood What state?

CA but hoping to move to MT

Does MT have a big union culture? If not might not be worth it

Florida has a union too, but no one's in it

First I need to decide which one to contact 👀

If you're moving, go to a company and ask the guys there is they're in or not

Go apply for a job. If they're union they won't hire you and may bring up apprenticeship program

^^^

I'm working on doing a little remodel work for a gentleman getting ready to sell off old house. He's doing a little bit of cosmetic work in the bathrooms. Here are a few pictures showing removal of the old wax ring boating the toilet down and putting the tank back on the lower portion

When you put the tank on you want to make sure that the gasket is in place. This toilet took a foam rubber gasket

Once you put the bolts through the tank using the provided rubber washers you tighten it evenly so as not to crack the tank

Hook up your supply line and turn the water on and you're ready to go

Since the house was built in the 50s the waste lines penetrate the floor in a lead elbow. They attach a brass flange to the floor and fold the lead out and over the flange. The half bath at this location had a damaged flange and had to be replaced

To replace it you take a screwdriver and pair of pliers in gently pry the lead upward away from the flange until you can remove the old flange. When properly installed the lead is soldered to the flange but you can get it squared up and screw it to the floor and then fold the lid back down. This is where the wax ring will sit for the new toilet

You'll notice that part of the lead has broken away. It becomes brittle over time. As long as there is enough lead to fold back against the inner throat of the flange you will be okay

In the full bath I am adding a pedestal sink. Since you don't have a vanity it gives you a little bit more room in a tight bathroom. Here are the water lines with a new valves attached and the drain that i will be using

Do they still sell that lead boot?

No. The entire elbow is lead. Where this one penetrates the floor it is about 2 foot long and plugs directly into the black Iron. Nowadays they rip that out and replace it with PVC back to the black Iron. I know a carpenter friend that when he tears those out he makes musket balls out of them for his black powder rifle

Looks exactly like the lead boot I use for box gutters

Haha that's funny

But the gutter boot is like 18 inches or so

Yes I was talking to a plumber today and Home Depot about it and he said the proper way to do it this is to Solder that ring to the lead. I did not realize you could solder lead like that

Next you take the upper portion of the sink and put your fixtures on and installthe tailpipe for the drain

This is the pop-up or some call it the tailpipe which sticks down and will connect to your drain. You'll notice the nut that's facing you which will be where the diverter handle is installed that raises and lowers the stopper

Yeah, I didn't know either. I'll have to figure that out now.

The Chrome ring that you see in the base of the sink prior to installing it you put a bead of plumbers caulk so as to seal the bowl