All CK Studies
All CK Studies
All CK Studies
concerning the influence of products on the skin, occlusion effects and the penetration depth of
the scatterfield.
J.W. Fluhr, S. Lazzedni, F. Distante, M. Gloor, E. Beradesca, Effects of Prolonged Occlusion on
Stratum Corneum Barrier Function and Water Holding Capacity. Stratum Corneum II
Symposium, Cardiff, 09/98.
Occlusion is used in clinical practice to enhance transcutaneous penetration and drug delivery to the
skin. Occlusion can also be generated by the professional use of protective garments, gloves and
cosmetics.
D. Black, A. Del Pozo, S. Diridollou, J.M. Lagarde, Y. Gall, Assessment of Emollient Effects on the
Stratum Corneum of Wingter Dry Skin Using A Multiple Measurement Approach. Stratum
Corneum II Symposium, Cardiff, 09/98.
A randomised single-blind study was carried out on 13 female volunteer subjects aged 21-43, (mean
35 yrs), with the aim of assessing the effects of a glycerine/vaseline based emollient cream on the
stratum corneum of winter dry skin.
J.W. Wiechers, A. Barlow, Skin Moisturisation and Elasticity Originate From at Least Two
Different Mechanisms. Stratum Corneum II Symposium, Cardiff, 09/98.
O. Barel, P. Clarys, B.Gabard, In Vivo Evaluation of the Hydration State of the Horny Layer: The
Use of Electrical Measurements for Claim Support. Stratum corneum II Symposium, Cardiff, 09/98
J.W. Fluhr, W. Gehring, M. Gloor, S. Lazzerini, P. Kleesz, E. Berardesca, Comparative Study of 5
Instruments Measuring Stratum corneum Hydration in Vitro. Stratum Corneum II Symposium,
Cardiff, 09/98.
A.V. Schreiner, Zeden, G. Gercken, U. Hoppe, P.Gerson, Comparison of Barrier Properties of
Different Layers of Stratum Corneum of Xerotic Skin of Elderly and Normal Skin. Stratum
Corneum II Symposium, Cardiff, 09/98
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P.M. Mller, R. Jermann, The Skin.IFSCC Magazine, Vol.1 No. 1, 1998
The authors inroduce a novel psycho-physical approach to determining subjective skinfeel involving
weights on panelists volar forearms. Through this method and by determining defferentiation
threshold values, the authors demonstrate that sin moisturized with a liposomal formulation performs
better than skin dehydrated with sodium dodecyl sulfate and aqueous ethanol.
H. Zhai, Preventing Irritant Dermatitis. Cosmetics&Toiletries, October 1998
The author reviews the role of moisturizers in preventing irritant dermatitis with testimonial and
controlled experimental data.
D.S. Orth, J. Widjaja, L. Ly, N. Cao, Stability and Skin Persistence of Topical Products.
Cosmetics&Toiletries, October 1998.
Using sevel commercially available cosmetic and OTC-drug products, the authors determined the
chemical stability of selected topical ingredients in a hydroalcoholic vehicle with 2% hydroquinone.
H. Tronnier, Empfindliche Haut. Kosmetische Medizin 4, 10/98
Eine einheitliche Ursache fr eine empfindliche Haut gibt es nicht. Zahlreiche
Funktionsabweichungen, die anamnestisch zu erfassen und mit geeigneten Methoden zu bestimmen
sind, knnen individuell das Muster einer empfindlichen haut abgeben oder die Grundlage einer
empfindlichen haut darstellen. Wesentlichen Einflu knnen psychogene Faktoren haben.
EnviroDerms Skin Breakthrough. Engine Repair and Remanufacture, 01/98
Until now, prevention of occupational skin disease was very much a hit and miss affair. There was no
practical way of detecting unseen damage to the skin from working practice or contact with chemicals.
F.Morizot, I. Le Fur, E. Tschachler, Sensitive Skin. Cosmetics & Toiletries Vol.113, November 1998
Studies on skin reactions to irritant substances and topical preparations have a long history. Clinical
signes and symptoms of irritant reactions in the dermatological sense are well defined and are
synonymous with skin inflammatory reactions.
Uta Bornschein, Der Schu ins Waschwasser.... Die Schwester/Der Pfleger 12/98
Die Ganzkrperwaschung der Patienten durch Pflegende ist im Krankenhaus eine tglich
wiederkehrende Verrichtung. In vielen Einrichtungen ist dafr ein Pflegestandard geschaffen worden.
Dabei kommt es oft zu einer Diskussion um en Waschwasserwechsel, und dies nicht nur aus
hygienischen Gesichtspunkten.
H. Knaggs, J. Bajor, W. Becker, The Sebumeter and Its Use. Mediscript 12/98
The Sebumeter is a quick and easy tool to use in measuring skin surface lipids. The type of lipids
sampled largely depends on the body site at which the measurement is taken. The Sebumeter has most
commonly been used to measure skin lipids on the forehead which consist predominantly of sebaceous
gland-derived lipids or sebum.
H. Tronnier, Ergebnisse der Hautoberflchenanalyse mit SELS.Kosmetische Medizin Nr. 5, 1998
Nach einer Beschreibung des Meprinzips und der Durchfhrung der SELS-Methode sowie einem
Eingehen auf bereits publizierte Studienergebnisse wird ber 3 weitere Untersuchungsreihen berichtet.
Dabei konnte gezeigt werden, da die gltte der Haut SE
sm
mit einer Verbesserung der zellulren
Kohsion korreliert ist.
C. Greif, W. Wigger-Alberti, M. Arens-Corell, P. Elsner, Beurteilung einer Krperlotion fr
trockene und empflindliche Haut. Kosmetische Medizin Nr. 5, 1998.
H\litlist\studies 12/06
68
In einer offenen kontrollierten Anwendungstudie ber 3 Wochen wurde an 30 Probanden eine Body
Milk auf Hautvertrglichkeit und Wirksamkeit getestet. Dazu wurden folgende hautphysiologische
Parameter erfat: Hautfeuchtigkeit, transepidermaler Wasserverlust, Hautelastizitt, pH-Wert sowie
Hauttemperatur.
N.Y. Schrer, Beeinflussung der epidermalen Barriere durch Externa. Kosmetische Medizin Nr.
5,1998.
Beim Studium der Beeinflussung der epidermalen Barriere durch Externa ist ein Studium der
Hautphysiologie genau so wichtig, wie das der Externa, ihrer kosmetischen Wirkstoffe und ihrer
Galenik. Gerade in vivo unterliegen die meergebnisse vielen, meist nur teilweise greifbaren, intra-
und interindividuellen Einflssen.
H. Tronnier, Beitrag zur Hautvertrglichkeit von Krperpflegemitteln. Kosmetische Medizin
6/1999
Wenn auch die Zahl der Nebenwirkungen durch kosmetische Prparate und Krperpflegemittel, vor
allem der allergischen, sehr gering ist, gibt es doch gerade bei empfindlichen Patienten Hautzustnde,
fr die eine weitere Maximierung der Vertrglichkeit fr den Dermatologen wnschenswert ist.
Ch. Packham, The first in a series of articles aimed at helping to prevent damage to health in the
workplace. Engine Repair and Remanufacture, January 1999.
Most people working in the engineering industry will at some time be exposed to chemicals, the range
of which, is enormous and includes substances, such as the solvents used in paint spraying or to
degrease engine components; this includes metal working fluids, epoxy resin compounds, and even the
skin cleanser used by the mechanic or fitter to clean hands after work.
H. Tronnier, M. Wiebuch, U. Heinrich, R. Stute, Surface Evaluation of Living Skin-
SELS.Experimental Dermatology-Vo. 6, No.5, 10/1997
B.Chadoutaud, L.Curtil, C.Veret, F.Alais-Gallou, Evaluation objective en double avuegle de la
performance hydratante et de la rmanence de duex mollients corporels E/H et H/E dans le
traitement des peaux sches et trs sches. Les Nouvelles Dermatologiques, Vol. 18 No. 2 Feb.99
Cette tude en double aveugle randomise chez 20 volontaires peau sche et trs sche, concerne
lanalyse controlatrale de lactivit hydratante de deux mulsions
H.Tronnier, C.M. Heeks, M. Wiebuch, U. Heinrich, Comparative Measurement of Skin-Hydration,
Poster at Clinical Dermatology Update, 03/99.
K. De Paepe, P. van Damme, M. Paule Derde, D. Roseeuw, V. Rogiers, Body Lotions Enriched with
Skin Identical Lipids: A TEWL Study of Aged Skin and SLS-Induced Scaly Skin. Euro
Cosmetics 2 Vol. No. 7, 02/99.
Recently, it has been shown that both the qualitative lipid composition of the intercellular lamellar
sheets of the straum corneum (SC) are important for the maintenance of the barrier function of the
skin. In order to investigate whether supplementation of major barrier lipids to skin care products
could exert a beneficial effect on a damaged barrier function as measured by transepidermal water loss
(TEWL), a body lotion, with known composition, was enriched with ceramides, cholesterol and fatty
acids using a weight ration of 50 / 25 / 25, the appropriate ration found in the SC.
U. Berndt, U. Hinnen, D. Iliev, P. Elsner, Eignung hautphysiologischer Memethoden als
Screening-Verfahren zur Identifizierung ekzemgefhrdeter Personen. Allergologie 3, 03/1999
Bauer, R. Bartsch, M. Stadeler, U. Vollina, P. Elsner, Evaluierung von prdiktiven Parametern fr
die Entwicklung von Handekzemen im Ausbildungsverlauf bei Auszubildenden des Bcker- und
Konditorhandwerks. Allergologie 3, 03/1999
H\litlist\studies 12/06
69
M. Bock, H.J. Schwanitz, Modulation der epidermalen Permeabilittsbarriere durch die topische
Anwendung von CO
2
imprgniertem Wasserklinische und hautphysiologische
Untersuchungen. Allergologie 3, 03/1999
T.Fischer, W. Wigger-Alberti, C. Greif, P. Elsner, Irritative Wirkung von abrasiven
Reinigungsmitteln auf die Barrierefunkton der Haut. Allergologie 3, 03/1999
C.Greif, W. Wigger-Alberti, M. Arens-Corell, P. Elsner, Beurteilung einer Krperlotion fr
trockene und empfindliche Haut. Allergologie 3, 03/1999
V. Rosenberger, A. Klotz, K.P. Wilhelm, Nachweis der Wirksamkeit einer traubenkernl- und
harnstoffhaltigen Creme anhand biophysikalischer Untersuchungen. Allergologie 3, 03/1999
L. Halkier-Sorensen, Hautschutz bei Reinigungspersonal, TWDermatologie Heft 6,
November/Dezember 1994
Berufsttige, die an ihrem Arbeitsplatz hautreizenden Substanzen ausgesetzt sind, sollten zum
Hautschutz Feuchtigkeitsprparate verwenden. Zur berprfung der Wirksamkeit eines solchen
Prparates wurde eine Feldstudie mit 111 Arbeitskrften aus dem Reinigungs- und Kchenbereich
durchgefhrt. Die Ergebnisse zeigen, da die Probanden generell von der Verwendung des
Feuchtigkeitsprparates profitieren. Vor allem aber fr jene Personen, die bereits mit Hautirritationen
vorbelastet sind, erscheint die Anwendung eines Feuchtigkeitsprparates unverzichtbar.
Hong-Geun Ji, Bong-seok Seo, Retinyl Palmitate at 5% in a Cream: Its Stability, Efficacy and
Effect. C&T, 03/99.
This paper evaluates the stability, efficacy and effect of retinyl palmitate at 5% in four different cream
formulations: w/o water-in-silicone, o/w and multilamellar vesicles.
J.S.C. English, J. Ratcliffe, H.C. Williams, Irritancy of industrial hand cleansers tested by repeated
open application on human skin. Contact Dermatitis, Vol. 40, No. 2
The aim of this study was to compare the irritancy potential of 2 industrial hand cleansers with a brand
leader of mild childrens hand cleanser and with an emollient.The products were tested using
repeated open application tests (ROATs) on the forearms of 40 subejcts. Scoring of signs and
symptoms (itching or burning), transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and stratum corneum hydration
(Corneometer) evaluated responses.
E. Barany, M. Lindberg, M. Loden, Biophysical characterization of skin damage and recovery
after exposure to different surfactants. Contact Dermatitis, Vol. 40, No. 2
The majority of adverse skin reaction to personal-care products are presumed to be caused by irritant
substances, like surfactants. In this study, different aspects of the irritant reaction after a single
exposure to 8 surfactants were characterized during 2 weeks.
M. Paye, G. Gomes, C.R. Zerweck. G.E. Pierard, G.L. Grove, A hand immersion test under
laboratory-controlled usage conditions: the need for sensitive and controlled assessment
methods. Contact Dermatitis, Vol. 40, No. 3
Exaggerated test conditions were frequently used to investigate the cutaneous tolerance of detergent
products in the past. As the sensitivity of newly designed biometric methods is steadily improving, the
trend towards more realistic test conditions should be encouraged.
E. Schnetz, O. Kuss, J. Schmitt, T.L.Diepgen, M. Kuhn, M. Fartasch, Intra- and inter-individual
variations in transepidermal water loss on the face: facial locations for bioengineering studies.
Contact Dermatitis Vol. 40, No. 3
The volar forearm is the favored location for bioengineering studies. However, transepidermal water
loss (TEWL), which is an important indicator of the function of the epidermal barrier, shows regional
variations, and for the evaluation of cosmetic formulations, facial skin would be more suitable. In this
H\litlist\studies 12/06
70
study, we have compared 10 facial locations with 1 test site on the volar forearm for absolute TEWL
values, reproducibility, and correlation. Measurements were performed over 3 consecutive days.
H+G Band 74, Heft 6, 1999. Hautmegerte unentbehrlich fr Klinik + Praxis
Eine Notwendigkeit fr die dermatologische Praxis ?
Die apparative Bestimmung von Hautparametern
C.Packham, Bio-engineering and the skin. AOHNP(UK) 1999
In this article a modern approach to the age-old problem of irritant contact dermatitis is examined.
L.Rodrigues, P.Pinto, N.Galego, P.A. Da Silva, L.M. Pereira, Transepidermal water loss kinetic
modeling approach for the parameterization of skin water dynamics. Skin Research and
Technology, Vol.5 No. 2, May 1999
The evaluation of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is one of the methods most frequently used in
studies involving skin water dynamics. However, TEWL does not provide a direct measurement of
epidermal barrier function, being rather a surrogate effect of it. In particular, when external stimuli
change cutaneous water balance, these stimuli must be taken into account in order to achieve a
rigorous interpretation of the results.
L. Rodrigues, Y.R.Salgueiros, N.Galego, P.Pinto, N.Silva, I.Z.Ferro, Study on the In Vivo
Performance of Two Capacitance Systems: Assessment of the Experimental Reproducibility and
sensitvity. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.5 No. 2, May 1999
The epidermal water content is one of the most fundamental indicators for cutaneous functional
evaluation. The major role of water in the skin physiological and pathophysiological processes is
actually well known and recognised and for it, the reinforcement or re-establishment of these
properties, through a wide variety of topical formulations, including cosmetics, is a frequent objective
of therapeutical intervention.
P.Clarys, K.Alewaeters, A.O.Barel, Comparative Study of Skin Color Using Different
Bioengineering Methods. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.5 No. 2, May 1999
A.O.Barel, K.Alewaeters, P.Clarys, Optical Imaging Using UV Light for the Determination of
Photoageing. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.5 No. 2, May 1999
U. Maerker, P.Behm,Dr.Schreiner, NIR-Spektroskopie und Haut Poster Bad Neuenahr 1999
W.D.Becker, S.Hillmer,M.A.Presser, A Clinical Model for Surface Sebum Measurement Poster
Arbois 1999
E.Schnetz, O.Kuss, J.Schmitt, T.L.Diepgen, M.Kuhn, M.Fartasch, Intra- and inter-individual
variations in transepidermal water loss on the face: facial locations for bioengineering studies.
Contact Dermatitis 40, 1999.
The volar forearm is the favored location for bioengineering studies. However, transepidermal water
loss (TEWL), which is an important indicator of the function of the epidermal barrier, shows regional
variations, and for the evaluation of cosmetic formulations, facial skin would be more suitable. In this
study, we have compared 10 facial locations with 1 test site on the volar forearm for absolute TEWL
values, reproducibility, and correlation.
M.Frschle, I. Frei, Elastisch und geschmeidig. Kosmetik International 6/99
E. Thumm, E..G. Jung, Ch. Bayerl, berprfung der Auswirkung von Kosmetika auf
Hautrauhigkeit, Feuchtigkeitsgehalt und Barrierefunktion der Haut. Kosmetische Medizin 3 Juni
1999
H\litlist\studies 12/06
71
In einer seitenkontrollierten Studie wurde drei Kosmetikprparate auf liposomaler Basis hinsichtlich
ihrer Auswirkung auf a)Hautrauhigkeit (Skin Visiometer SV 500), b) den Feuchtigkeitsgehalt des
Stratum corneum (Corneometer CM825) und c) die Hautbarrierefunktion bzw. den transepidermalen
Wasserverlust/TEWL (Tewameter TM 210) untersucht.
H.Tronnier, U.Heinrich, Diagnostik und Behandlungskontrolle seborrhoischer Kopfschuppung
mit bildanalytischem Verfahren. Kosmetische Medizin,2 Mai 1999-07-15
Nach kurzem Eingehen auf die Klinik der (seborrhoischen) Kopfschuppung und ihre Pathogenese
sowie die Therapie wird auf die konischen Nachweisverfahren auf der Kopfhaut hingewiesen. Eine
neue bildanalytische Methode, basierend auf lteren Untersuchungen, wird beschrieben. Gemessen
wird dabei die Schuppenzahl (SZ), die durch Schuppen bedeckte Meflche (SF), aus denen sich eine
relative Schuppengre errechnen lt (SG). Auerdem werden prozentual die Schuppengren in 9
Klassen ausgewiesen.
S.Tamburic, G.Abama, Moisturizing Potential of d-a-Tocopherol. Cosmetics&Toiletries, 05/1999
Moisturizing products are designed with the intention of improving skin condition and appearance by
increasing skin hydration. The classic approach to this problem involves the use of occlusive
ingredients (to decrease the level of transepidermal water loss) and humectants (to imporve the water-
binding ability of the stratum corneum.
W.Pittermann, Tierversuchsfrei forschen mit dem Rindereuter-Modell. Parfmerie und
Kosmetik, Nr. 3/99.
Haut und Schleimhaut sind nicht nur wegen der anatomischen und funktionellen Unterschiede
Zielorgane besonderer Art. In der regulren Sicherheitsprfung fr den Arbeits- und
Verbraucherschutz werden sie als mgliche Angriffspunkte fr lokal oder systemisch schdigende
Rohstoffe oder Chemikalien behandelt. Im Mittelpunkt der kosmetischen Forschung steht jedoch die
Pflege von Haut und Schleimhaut sowie die Wirksamkeit von Inhaltsstoffen und Formulierungen.
H.Tronnier, Empfindliche Haut. Seminar Hausarzt Praxis Mrz/April 1999
Die Empfindlichkeit der Haut hat keineswegs nur somatische Aspekte und Ursachen, sondern auch
psychogene. Sie wird damit partiell vergleichbar mit anderen menschlichen Empfindungen, deren
Existenz niemand bestreitet, deren Definition aber alles andere als einfach ist. Kann man einer Haut
ihre Empfindlichkeit ansehen?
W.Voss,G.Schlippe,M.Breuer, Tests on Cosmetics Scientific Standards. SFW-Journal 4/99
In general, body care articles and cosmetics have only a low allergy potential. The probability that
toxic-irritative reactions will arise after proper use is even lower.But especially with patients with
sensitive skin, unclear skin reactions, which can frequently be confused with allergies, can arise. The
cosmetics manufacturers, however, would like to produce safer products and naturally want to avoid
that type of problem from the start.
E.Schnetz, O.Kuss, J.Schmitt, T.L.Diepgen, M.Kuhn, M.Fartasch, Intra- and inter-individual
variations in transepidermal water loss on the face: facial locations for bioengineering studies.
Contact Dermatitis 40, 1999.
The volar forearm is the favored location for bioengineering studies. However, transepidermal water
loss (TEWL), which is an important indicator of the function of the epidermal barrier, shows regional
variations, and for the evaluation of cosmetic formulations, facial skin would be more suitable. In this
study, we have compared 10 facial locations with 1 test site on the volar forearm for absolute TEWL
values, reproducibility, and correlation.
N. Yokoi, F. Mossa, J. M. Tiffany, A. J. Bron, Assessment of Meibomian Gland Function in Dry
Eye Using Meibometry, Arch Ophtalmol, Vol. 117, June 1999, www.archophtalmol.com.
Meibomian gland disease is a common condition that is often symptomatic. Meibomian gland
dysfunction (MGD) is a term adopted by Jester et al. chiefly to describe obstructive meibomian gland
H\litlist\studies 12/06
72
disease. The primary disease is common, but there is a strong association between MGD and certain
forms of skin disease such as atopic and seborrheic dermatitis.
J.W.Wiechers, V.A. Wortel, Creating Effective Claim Support Packages. C&T July 1999
It is interesting to study the history of ceramides as an example of what can happen to ingredient
claims. Unilever scientists identified ceramide 1 as a functional skin lipid in 1982 and many scientific
papers have since been written to describe the beneficial skin effects of ceramides. The name of this
ingredient was popularized by Elizabeth Arden, a company belonging to the Uniliver group, when
they launched Ceramide Time capsules in 1990.
M. Maruno, FC Facco, PA Rocha Filho, Hydration, Oily and PH of Skin In Vivo Evaluation After
Application of Both Simple and Complex Emulsions Containing Hydrolyzed Proteins. IFSCC
May 1999
RG Azzini, L Licursi, PA Rocha-Filho, Colour Evaluation In Vitro Method of Facial Powders.
IFSCC May 1999
SH Perez Damonte, GM Cuomo, RL Galimberti, Evaluacion Instrumental de la Piel Sensible.
IFSCC May 1999
N Arnejo, SRL Fabriquimica, Evaluacion del Poder de Retencion de Agua de Los Agentes
Humectantes. IFSCC May 1999
A. Castro, A. Vargas, Alternativas Naturales en el Tratamiento del Fotoenvejecimiento. IFSCC
May 1999
A.M. Vargas, A. Castro, Proteina de Soja: Evaluacion de su Efecto Hidratante. IFSCC May 1999
A.De Castro, A.M.Vargas, Evaluacion del efecto hidratante de la proteina de soja. Actualizaciones
Terapeuticas Dermatologicas y Esteticas, Vol. 22 No. 5, Sept/Oct 1999
A.De Castro, A.M.Vargas, Evaluacion del tratamientodel prurito con el residuo lipidico de la
cebada. Actualizaciones Terapeuticas Dermatologicas y Esteticas, Vol. 22 No. 5, Sept/Oct 1999
C. Rojas, A. Castro, L. Castro, R. Brito, Utilizacion del Residuo Lipidico de la Cebada en el
Tratamiento del Prurito. IFSCC May 1999
W.Schlter-Wigger, P.Elsner, Klinische Prfung der Wirksamkeit von vier kommerziellen
Hautschutzprparaten im repetitiven Irritationstest (RIT). 2. Poster Preis ICPCD Zrich, 10/1995
A. Vexler, I. Polyansky, R. Gorodetsky, Multi-Parametric Examination of Irradiated Skin in
Breast Cancer Patients. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.5 No. 2, May 1999
B. Gabard, Dry Skin and the Cosmetic Benefit of moisturization. Skin Research and Technology,
Vol.5 No. 2, May 1999
Y. Kawasaki, D. Quan, K. Sakamotor,R. Cooke, H.I. Maibach, Influence of Surfactant Mixutres on
Intercellurlar Lipid Fluidity and Skin Barrier Function. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.5 No.
2, May 1999
Surfactant mixtures are used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulas in order to establish product
efficacy while maintaining mildness and skin lipids. The electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR)
technique of the spin labeling method with a nitroxide spin probe is a valuable method in the study of
biological membranes. The objective of this study was to define the influence of surfactant mixtures
on intercellular lipid.
H\litlist\studies 12/06
73
M. Puschmann, A. Melzer, H.P. Nissen., Hautglttende, hautelastische und hautschtzende
Wirkung einer Urea-Ceramid-Kombination. Kosmetische Medizin Nr. 4, 1999-11-22
Sebostase ist ein hufiges dermatologisches Krankheitsbild. Sie wird durchexogene Faktoren, (Klima,
Waschgewohnheiten) und/oder konstitutionelle Faktoren wie Alter und atopische Hautdiathese
hervorgerufen. Eine auffllige Hufung derartiger Sympotome findet sich in der kalten Jahreszeit. Hier
ist das Klima (Temperatur, Luftfeuchtigkeit) sowohl im Freien als auch in den gebuden als wichtiger
Kofaktor anzusehen. Zur Therapie trockener Haut werden traditionell Salben/Fettsalben, lbder
sowie harnsoffhaltige Zubereitungen eingesetzt.
A.Fendl, Einzelheiten der Hautdiagnose. Natrlich schn / Grundlagten der Ganzheitskosmetik
Handwerk und Technik 1999
Gut gepflegt, Test Stiftung Warentest Nr. 11, 1999
Eingecremt von Kopf bis Fuss dat tut gut. Muss es aber die teure Bodylotion aus der Parfmerie
sein? Muss es nicht, zeigte der Test.
H. Tronnier, Wirksamkeit von Kosmetika Anspruch,Wirklichkeit und Perspektiven, 13.
Symposium der DGK Bad Neuenahr, 1999
St. Bielfeldt, H.Khler, J.Gamller, Minimalinvasive Verfahren in der Werksamkeits- und
Vertrglichkeitsprfung von Kosmetika. 13. Symposium der DGK Bad Neuenahr, 1999
Corinne Stoltz, How Can the Special Needs of Mature Skin be Catered For ? Cosmetics &
Toiletries 03/2000
H.E.Packham, c.L. Packham, Skin Bioengineering as a Contribution to Product Performance and
Safety. Cosmetics & Toiletries 03/2000
W. Pittermann, Th. Gassenmeier, S. Nieveler, Th. Frster, M. Kietzmann, Experimentally Induced
Epidermal Barrier Perturbation: Measurement of Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) Using
the Perfused Bovine Udder Skin (BUS) Model. IFSCC Vol. 3, No. 1, January/March 2000-04-12
This paper describes the measurement of the TEWL under in vitro conditions using the isolated
perfused Bovine Udder Skin (BUS) model.
S. Lopez, I. Le Fur, F.Morizot, G. Heuvin, Ch. Guinot, E. Tschachler, Transepidermal Water Loss,
Temperature and Sebum Levels on Womens Facial Skin Follow Characteristic Patters. Skin
Research and Technology, Vol. 6 No. 1, February 2000.
The aim of this study was to compare the biophysical properties of different facial zones.
A.E.Sagiv, A.Ingber, S. Dikstein, A Novel In Vivo Model in Guinea Pigs for Dry Skin Syndrome.
Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6 No. 1, February 2000.
J.W.Wiechers, Relative Performance Testing: Introducing a tool to Facilitate Cosmetic
Ingredient Selection. Cosmetics & Toiletries, 112 (9) 79-84, 1997.
J.W.Wiechers, Multifunktionelle Mischungen: Eine neue Workstoffgeneration ? Parfmerie &
Kosmetik, 79 (11) 36-38, 1998.
J.W. Wiechers, Verbraucher messen etwas anders. Vergleich objektiver und subjektiver
Hautfeuchtigkeitsbestimmung. Parfmerie und Kosmetik, 80 (4) 50-56, 1999.
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J.W. Wiechers, M. Lder, F.J. Groenhof, A. Barlow, Building Skin Functionality Into
Formulations. IFSCC 2, 34-40, October-December 1999.
J.W.Wiechers, A. Barlow, Just below the Skin Surface: Skin Hydration. Cosmetics & Toiletries 114
(12) 47-53, 1999
J.W. Wiechers, Efficacy Testing of Cosmetic Ingredients. In: Hincal, A.A., and de Jong (Eds.)
Recent Advances in Pharmaceutical, Cosmetic and Food Excipients. Minutes 9
th
Int. Pharmaceutical
Technology Symposium, Editions de Sant, Paris, 126-138 Book Chapter, 1999
J.W. Wiechers, Combining Clinical and Sensory Assessment of Skin Moisturisation. XXth
Conference of the Int.Federation of the Societies of Cosmetic Chemists, Cannes (Poster) 09/1999.
J.W. Fluhr, M.Gloor, S.Lazzerini, P.Kleesz, R.Grieshaber, E.Berardesca, Comparative study of five
instruments measruing stratum corneum hydration (Corneometer CM 820 and CM 825, Skicon
200, Nova DPM 9003,DermaLab). Part II. In vivo. Skin Research and Technology, Vo. 5, No. 3,
August 1999
G.Gacic-Vukavljak, Sebum Control Performance with Powdered Silicone Elastomers. Personal
Care Ingredient Asia Conference, Bangkok, March 2000.
J.W.Wiechers, C.Oakley, V.Wortel, T.Barlow, Comparison of Skin Colour Measuring
Methodologies on Asian Skin. Personal Care Ingredient Asia Conference, Bangkok, March 2000.
K.P.Wittern, F. Stb, R. Wolber, T. Blatt, R. Keyhani, V. Schreiner, U. Schnrock, Wirkstoffe und
ihre Wirkprinizpien. 13. Symposium der DGK, Bad Neuenahr, 1999
A.M. Koehler, H.I. Maibach, Skin Hyporeactivity in Relation to Patch Testing. Contact Dermatitis,
Vol.42, No. 1, January 2000
False-negative patch tests are clinically relevant. Skin hyporeactivity has been suggested as one
possible cause. Evidence supports that failure to respond to a specific antigen might be due either to a
faulty immune response, a defective inflammatory response or both. Thus, skin hyporeactivity may
have clinical relevance in routine patch testing.
J.Brasch, M.Httemann, E. Proksch, Iontophoresis of Nickel Elicits a Delayed Cutaneous Response
in Sensitized Individuals that is Similar to an Allergic Patch Test Reaction. Contact Dermatitis,
Vol.42, No.1, January 2000.
M.Fischer, I.-M.Schneider, R.Neubert, W. Wohlrab, ber den Eionfluss methylverzweigter
Fettsuren auf die Barrierefunktion des Stratum Corneum. Dermatosen / Occup.Environ. 47, 225-
229, 1999
F.Rippke, V.Schreiner, H.J. Schwanitz, Das saure Hornschichtmilieu. Dermatosen / Occup.Environ.
47, 225-229, 1999
M.O.Visscher, S.Maganti, K.A. Munson, D.E. Bare, S.B.Hoath, Early Adaptation of Human Skin
Following Birth: a Biophysical Assessment. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.5, No. 4,
November 1999
I.Le Fur, S. Lopez, F. Morizot, Ch. Guinot, E. Tschachler, Comparison of Cheek and Forehead
Regions by Bioengineering Methods in Women with Different Self-Reported Cosmetic Skin
Types. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.5, No. 3, August 1999
T.Barlow, J.W.Wiechers, MeasuringSkin Hydration.C&T, December 1999
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G.Kutz, D.Peltner, Aktuelle Formulierungskonzepte moderner Hautkosmetika am Beispiel der
trockenen Haut. Kosmetische Medizin Nr. 5, 1999
L.Rodrigues and the EEMCO Group, EEMCO Guidance to the In Vivo Assessment of Tensile
Functional Properties of the Skin. Part 2: Instrumentation and Test Modes, 1999.
J.E. Arrese, P. Pierard- Franchimont, G. E. Pirard, V. Goffin, Biometrology applied to
cyanoacrylate skin surface strippings. A review of the Lige experience, Dermatologia Clinica n.
3/ 1999, pp. 93-97.
The cyanoacrylate skin surface stripping (CSSS) is a time-honoured method to harvest in a single
procedure a sheet of the superficial stratum corneum and follicular casts as well. Such sampling is
currently used to assess non-invasively various physiological and pathological aspects of the skin .
L.M.Harnisch, M.K.Raheja, L.K.Lockhart, A.Pagnoni, Substantiating Antiaging Product Claims.
C&T Vol.114,No.10, October 1999.
Ch. Houghton, New Natural Oils. Cosmetic Science&Business 2000
A.A. Fendl, Einzelheiten der Hautdiagnose. Natrlich Schn, 1999
S.Tamburic, Changing the Skin Surface. Parfmerie + Kosmetik 11/12, 1999
M.Puschmann, A.Melzer,H.P.Nissen, Hautgttende, hautelastische und hautschtzende Wirkung
einer Urea-Ceramid-Kombination. Kosmetische Medizin Nr.4, 1999
V.Rogiers, EEMCO Guidance for the Assessment of the Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL).
EEMCO Group 1999.
L.Rodrigues, P.Pinto, L.M.Pereira, The Quantitative Assessment of the In Vivo Barrier
Function. 13
th
ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000 and Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3,
August 2000.
L.F.Gouveia, J.Tavares, L.Rodrigues, Mathematical Modelation of Cutometer Acquired Signals.
13
th
ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000.
J.W.Fluhr, O.Kuss, T.Diepgen, S.Lazzerini, A.Pelosi, E.Beradesca, Testing for Irritation with a
Multiparametric Approach: Comparison of Eight Parameters and Five Different Irritation
Models. 13
th
ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000 and Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August
2000.
J.Lbbe, D.Perrenoud, Skin Irritancy of Alcoholic Skin Disinfectants. 13
th
ISBS Jerusalem, March
2000 and Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000
H.Fadhli, C.Edwards, S.Gaskell, R.Marks, Differences between normal skin and Unaffected
Psoriatic Skin are Demonstrated by Cutometer and Uniaxial Extensometry, and Confirmed by
Measurement of Elastic Fibre Content. 13
th
ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000.
D.Black, A.Del Pozo, S.Diridollou, JM, Lagarde, Y.Gall, Stratum Corneum Barrier Function
Assessment Using the Sorption-Desorption Test and Laser Doppler Flowmetry. 13
th
ISBS
Jerusalem, March 2000 and Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000
F.Henry, O.Martalo, G.E.Pierard, Liminar Perception Threshold of Cutaneous Distension. 13
th
ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000.
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76
EA Sagiv, S.Dikstein, The Efficiency of Humectants as Skin Moisturizers in Presence of Oil. 13
th
ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000 and Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000
JW Fluhr, A.Pelosi, L.Lazzerini, F.Distante, S.Dikstein, E.Berardesca, Corneocyte Surface Area is
Influenced by Hormonal Status in Humans: Assessment with the Noninvasive VIC-Method
(Videomicroscopic Imaging of Corneocytes). 13
th
ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000.
F.Li, E.Conroy, M.Visscher, R.Wickett, Influence of Formulations Containing Salt and Glycerin on
the Electrical Properties of Skin: Correlation Between Single Treatments and Long-Term
Results. 13
th
ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000.
A.M.Matta, P.Muret, Ph.Humbert, In Vivo Calibration of the Corneometer CM820 and the
Evaporimeter EP1 Servomed for the Assessment of the Water Content of the Upper Part of the
Epidermis Using a Water Sorption Desorption Test. 13
th
ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000.
I.Le Fur, C.Guinot, S.Lopez, F.Morizot, V.Lambert, E.Tschachler, Age-Related Reference Ranges
for Skin Biophysical Parameters in Healthy Caucasian Women. 13
th
ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000
and Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000
A.O. Barel, K.Alewaeters, P.Clarys, Non-Invasive Bioengineering Study of the Effects on the
Human Skin of a Direct Electric Current. 13
th
ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000.
G.Pellacani, S.Seidenari, Functional Non-Invasive Tests for the Assessment of the Stratum
Corneum Hydration Kinetics in Children Affected by Atopic Dermatitis. 13
th
ISBS Jerusalem,
March 2000.
K.De Paepe, JM Lagarde, Y.Gall, D.Roseeuw, V.Rogiers, Study of the Human Skin Microrelief by
a Standardised Light Transmission Method. 13
th
ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000 and Skin Research
and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000
A.Leal, J.Alves, L.Rodrigues, Usefulness of Transcutaneous Indictors as Predictors of Peripheral
Dysfunction. 13
th
ISBS Jerusalem, March 2000 and Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3,
August 2000.
JP Hachem, K.De Paepe, E.Vanpe, L.Kaufman, V.Rogiers, D.Roseeuw, Combination Therapy
Improves the Recovery of the Human Skin Barrier Function: An Experimental Model Using
Contact Allergy Patch Test Combined with TEWL Measurements. 13
th
ISBS Jerusalem, March
2000 and Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000
K.Janssens, K.De Paepe, D.Roseeuw, V.Rogiers, Lack of Correlation between Stratum Corneum
Hydration and Scaling Pattern: Evaluated by Corneometry and Squamometry. 13
th
ISBS
Jerusalem, March 2000 and Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000.
A. Markowetz, Die Pflege reifer Haut. Dermatologie & sthetik 3/2000-10-13
Reife Haut bentigt eine andere Pflege als junge Haut. Es bestehen einige Unterschiede, denen bei der
Pflege Rechnung getragen werden muss. Reife Haut ist in der Regel besonders trocken und bentigt
daher eine gute Feuchtigkeitszufuhr und eine Verbesserung des Hautgefhls.
H.E.Packham, Skin Bioengineering as a Contribution to Product Performance and Safety, C&T,
2000
V.Lambert, I. Le Fur, Ch. Guinot, F. Morizot, S. Lopez, E.Tschachler, Comparaison des Parametres
Biophysiques Cutanes en Hiver et en ete chez des Femmes Caucasiennes. IIime Congrs de la
Socit DIngnierie Cutane, Juin 2000
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D.Black, A.Del Pozo, J.M. Lagarde, Y. Gall, Seasonal variability in the biophysical properties of
stratum corneum from different anatomical sites. Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 2,
May 2000
H.Zhai, F.Brachman, A.Pelosi, A.Anigbogu, M.B.Ramos, M.C. Torralba, H.I. Maibach, A
bioengineering study on the efficacy of a skin protectant lotion in preventing SLS-induced
dermatitis, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 2, May 2000
Rode, U. Ivens, J. Serup, Degreasing method for the seborrheic areas with respect to regaining
sebum excretion rate to casual level, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 2, May 2000
J.Min Choi, J. Young Lee, B. Kee Cho, Chronic Irritant Contact Dermatitis: Recovery Time in
Man. Contact Dermatitis 42, 2000
Chronic irritant contact dermatitis (ICD) is a common skin disease, especially in the workplace, but
determining the recovery time of chronic ICD is not easy. To measure the recovery time of chronic
ICD, we examined the skin reactivity to a model surfactant, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), on previous
chronic ICD and normal sites by visual grade and non-invasive instruments.
W.Baschong, C.Artmann, J.Rding, Comparison of Skin Moisturization Attained by
Supplementing the NMF in the Skin or by Applying Water Binding Molecules on the Skin
Surface. SFW April 2000
Skin moisture can principally be improved either by hydrophilic substances binding water on the skin
surface (humectants), or by enriching the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) of the skin.
O.Doucet, L.Ferrero, D.Fouchard, V.Decherf, L.Zastrow, Description of a new Type of O/W
Emulsion Allowing the Formation of Liquid Crystals After Application Onto the Skin. Interest
for Creating Intensive and Long Lasting Moisturizer. XXIst IFSCC Congress 2000, Berlin
Most of the topically-applied products leave onto the skin surface a cream-residue which is of
particular importance in the regulation of the bio-disponibility of the active ingredients. Once the
spreading phase onto the skin is over, the evaporation of some volatile compounds, such as water,
promptly modifies their intial structure.
A.Teglia, A.Mondelli, Short Term Effects of Hydrophilic Ingredients on the Hydration
Parameters of the Stratum Corneum. XXIst IFSCC Congress 2000, Berlin
Though the real benefit of raising the skins water content is not fully explained, it is evident to
everyone that without an adequeate amount of water, skin displays undesirable perceivable changes
(brittleness, flakiness, roughness) and its protective function tends to be impaired.
A.Teglia, A.Mondelli, Short Term Effects of Hydrophilic Ingredients on the Hydration
Parameters of the Stratum Corneum. XXIst IFSCC Congress 2000, Berlin
Though the real benefit of raising the skins water content is not fully explained, it is evident to
everyone that without an adequeate amount of water, skin displays undesirable perceivable changes
(brittleness, flakiness, roughness) and its protective function tends to be impaired.
O.Tanno, Y.Ota, R. Hikima, M.Matsumotor, M.Ota, S.Inoue, An Increase in Endogenous Epidermal
Lipids Improves Skin Barrier Function. XXIst IFSCC Congress 2000, Berlin
Stratum corneum lipids, especially ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids, play a critical role in the
formation and maintenance of the epidermal permeability barrier.
Young-Dae Kim. Bong Rae Cho, Polyoxypropylene-Polyoxyethylene Tocopheryl Ethers: A Series
of Novel Amphiphiles from Tocopherol for Functional Cosmetics. XXIst IFSCC Congress 2000,
Berlin.
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78
E.Camel, L.Arnaud-Boissel, S.Schnebert, M.Neveu, S.K.Tan, J.P.Guillot, Does Asian Skin Induce
Significant Changes in Sun Protection Factor (S.P.F.) Determination, Compared to Caucasian
Skin: One of the First In Vivo Correlation. XXIst IFSCC Congress 2000, Berlin
D.T.Floyd, H.I.Leidreiter, Performance-Driven: New Silicone CoPolymers.Global Cosmetic
Industry September 2000
Experimenting with Dimethicone Copolyols for personal-care products.
St.Herman, Skin Deep. Global Cosmetic Industry September 2000
With a growing ethnic population in the U.S., large and small marketers need to turn their attention to
skin-care products.
S.Diridollou, A.Pavy-Le Traon, A.Maillet, F.Bellossi, D.Black, F.Patat, J.M.Lagarde, M.Beron,
Y.Gall, Characterisation of Gravity-Induced Facial Skin Oedema Using Biophysical
Measurement Techniques. Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000
In humans, the microgravity environment can be expected to induce swelling of facial tissues and
shrinking of the tissues in the lower limbs, together with a loss in body weight. To evaluate fluid shifts
in skin, the head-down bed-rest model was used. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the
appearance of facial oedema in subjects undergoing antiorthostatic bed-rest at an angle of 10.
S.Sakai, S.Sasai, Y.Endo, K.Matue, H.Tagami, S.Inoue, Characterization of the Physical Properties
of the Stratum Corneum by a New Tactile Sensor. Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3,
August 2000.
The physical properties of the stratum corneum (SC) change with its water content which is regulated
by the presence of water solutes (natural moisturizing factors) and lipids in the SC, and are considered
to be responsible for the induction of desquamation, skin surface roughness and fine wrinkles.
F.Li, E.Conroy, M.Visscher, R.Wickett Influence of Formulations Containing Salt and Glycerin on
the Electrical Properties of Skin:Correlation Between Single Treatments and Long-Term
Results. Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000
A.M.Matta, P.Muret, Ph.Humbert, S.Makki, P.Agache, In Vivo Calibration of the Corneometer CM
820 and the Evaporimeter EP1 Servomed for the Assessment of the Water Content of the Upper
Part of the Epidermis Using a Water Sorption-Desorption Test. Skin Research and Technology,
Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000.
A.Zlotogorski, S.Dikstein, Skin Surface Sebum on the Forehead and Cheek of Adults. Skin
Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000
L.F.Gouveia, J.Tavares, L.Rodrigues, Mathematical Modulation of Cutometer acquired signals.
Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 6, No. 3, August 2000
S.M.John, W.Uter, H.J.Schwanitz, Relevance of Multiparametric Skin Bioengineering in a
Prospectively-followed Cohort of Junior Hairdressers. Contact Dermatitis, Vol.43, No. 3,
September 2000.
There is conflicting evidence concerning predictors of individual susceptibility to develop irritant
contact dermatitis in wet work. A cohort of initially 92 hairdresser apprentices was prospectively
followed for 3 years.
M. Takahashi, Recent Progress in Skin Bioengineering and its Application to Evaluationof
Cosmetics. SFW Journal, September 2000.
With the advances in skin bioengineering technology, great progress has been made in the techniques
used for testing the efficacy of cosmetics to the skin ranging from the physical properties to the
biochemical characteristics of the skin.
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79
A.Morita, K.Kobayashi, I.Isomura, T.Tsuji, J.Krutmann, Ultraviolet A1 (340-400nm) Phototherapy
for Scleroderma in Systemic Sclerosis. AAD 2000
The presence of an inflammatory infiltrate consisting of helper T cells and a dysregulated matrix
metabolism leading to excessive deposition of collagen are two pathogenetic factors responsible for
the developments of fibrosis and sclerosis in patients with systemic sclerosis. In previous studies,
ultraviolet A1 (UVA1) radiation phototherapy was shown to deplete skin-infilltrating T cells through
the induction of T-cell apoptosis and to up-regulate the expression of matrixmetalloproteinase-1
(collagenase-1) in dermal fibroblasts.
N. Vidakovic, M. Primorac, M. Stupar, G. Vuleta, In Vivo Study: Influence of Polyacrylic
Anticellulite Gels on Hydration and pH-Value of the Skin. SFW-Journal 11-2000
The effect on hydration and pH-value of the skin has been investigated on 22 female subjects during
the thirty-day treatment. The following formulations have been tested: polyacrylic gel with 2% of
caffeine, ployacrylic gel with propylene-glycol plant extract of Ivy 2%, Horse Chestnut 2%,
Seaweed 1,5%, as well as ployacrylic gel with caffeine and above-mentioned plant extracts.
P.Clarys,K.Alewaeters, R.Lambrecht, A.O.Barel, Skin Color Measurements: comparison Between
Three Instruments: The Chomameter, the DermaSpectrometer, and the Mexameter. Skin
Research and Technology 2000.
Two types of skin reflectance instruments are available nowadays for the determination of skin color:
a tristumulus colorimeter (Chromameter from Minolta) using the CIE L*a*b* color system and the
narrow-band simple refelctance meters (DermaSpectrometer from Cortex and Mexameter from
Courage-Khazaka) using the erythema/melanin indices. The purpose of this study was to compare the
capabilities of the three instruments (sensitivity, repeatability and correlation) in vitro and in vivo.
Joyce Ryan, Potencial Umectante do d--Tocoferol. Cosmetics&Toiletries (Edicao em Portugues),
Vo.12, set/out 2000.
M.F.Silva, L.B.Silva, P.J.Rolim Neto, D.P.Santana, leo de Babau: Novo Adjuvante Lipofilcio.
Cosmetics&Toiletries (Edicao em Portugues), Vo.12, set/out 2000.
K.De Paepe, J.M.Lagarde, Y.Gall, D.Roseeuw, V.Rogiers, Microrelief of the Skin Using a Light
Transmission Method.Arch.Dermatol.Res (2000)
The recently developed Skin Visiometer, based on light transmission through blue-coloured silicone
replicas, was used to study skin microrelief. Calibrated metal plates displaying lines with depths
between 6 and 361 m, were used to determine the accuracy, sensitivity and reproducibility of the
technique as well as the parameters of importance during measurement.
D.Schmid, A.Lang, T.Allguer,Ch.Bayerl, E.G.Jung, Beurteilung der Vernderung der
Hautbeschaffenheit durch die Heilpflanzensfte Brennnessel und Lwenzahn. Akt.Dermatol.
2000.
Wir fhrten eine Anwendungsbeobachtung ber die Beeinflussung von objektiven und subjektiven
Parametern der Hautbeschaffenheit durch die Kombination der Heilpflanzensfte Brennnessel und
Lwenzahn bei gesunden Probandinnen durch. Zehn Probandinnen (Versuchsgruppe) nahmen ber 6
Wochen die Kombination der Heilpflanzensfte oral ein, gleichzeitig erhielten sie eine standardisierte
Krperpflege mit Basiscreme DAC, weitere 10 Probandinnen (Kontrollgruppe) benutzten lediglich die
standardisierte Krperpflege mit Basiscreme DAC.
M.Winnefeld, M.A.Richard, M.Drancourt, J.J.Grob, Skin tolerance and Effectiveness of Two Hand
Decontamination Procedures in Everyday Hospital Use. British Journal of Dermatology 2000.
Hand decontamination is crucial to control nosocomial infections. The utility of hand decontamination
is related not only to its antimicrobial effectiveness, but also to ist acceptability by hospital staff.
A.Sirvent, D.Doyen, P.Girard, The safety and efficacy of cosmetic products. Personal Care, Jan.01
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80
W. Gehring, M. Gloor, Der Effekt von Dexpanthenol bei experimentell geschdigter Haut. H+G
(76) 1-7, 2001
Im Rahmen einer randomisierten vehikelkontrollierten, doppelbilinden Studie wurde Dexpanthenol in
zwei unterschiedlichen lipophilen Vehikeln im repetitive Waschtest untersucht.
C.Pierard-Franchimont, O.Martalo, A.Richard, A.Rougier, GE Pierard, Sebum rheology evaluated
by two methods in vivo. Split-face study of the effect of a cosmetic formulation. Eur J Dermatol,
Sept. 1999
M.Winnefeld, M.A.Richard, M.Drancourt, J.J. Grob, Skin tolerance and effectiveness of two hand
decontamination procedures in everyday hospital use. British Journal of Dermatology 143, 2000.
Hand decontamination is crucial to control nosocomial infections. The utility of hand decontamination
is related not only to its antimicrobial effectiveness, but also to its acceptability by hospital staff.
H.Dobrev, In vivo Study of Skin Mechanical Properties in Psoriasis Vulgaris. Acta Derma, 3/1999
H.Dobrev, Non-invasive Monitoring of the Mechanical Properties of Keloids during
Cryosurgery. Acta Derm Venereol, 1999
J.Grudeva-Popova, H.Dobrev, Biomechanical measurement of skin distensibility in scleredema of
Buschke associated with multiple myeloma. Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, 2000
H.Dobrev, Evaluation of the photoprotective activity of topical indomethacin, betamethasone
valerate and emollients by means of non-invasive measurements of the skin elasticity.
H.Dobrev, Photoaging and Skin Elasticity. National Session of Young Scientists, May 2000
H.Dobrev, Changes in Skin Elasticity after an Application of Emulsions containing urea and
alphahydroxy acids. 7
th
National Congress of Dermatology and Venereology, May 2000
H.Dobrev, Influence of telegrammatherapy on the skin physiology. 7
th
National Congress of
Dermatology and Venereology, May 2000
H.Dobrev, Treatment of psoriasis vulgaris with hydrocolloid occlusive dressins in combination
with betamethasone dipropionate 0.05% cream. 7
th
National Congress of Dermatology and
Venereology, May 2000
H.Dobrev, Use of Cutometer to assess epidermal hydration. Skin Reserach and Technology 2000.
H.Dobrev, Immediate effects of cosmetic series for men Karo Royal on the skin water content
and pH. 7
th
National Congress of Dermatology and Venereology, May 2000
H.Dobrev, Assessment of cosmetical products by means of measurements of the epidermal water
content and residual lipid film on skin surface. 7
th
National Congress of Dermatology and
Venereology, May 2000
Prof. Ph. Humbert, Melanin And Erythema Measurements By The Mexameter MX 16, Universit
de Franche-Comt, Laboratoire dIngnirie et de Biologie Cutnaes, 2000.
N.Ota, T.Horiguchi, N.Fujiwara, N.Kahibuchi, Y.Hirai, F.Mori, Identification of Skin Sensitivity
through Corneocytes Measurements. IFSCC Magazine-vol.4, No.1 2001
Surveys conducted in many nations suggest that up to 50% of cosmetic users believe they have
sensitive skin and products specifically designed for this skin type have become an important cosmetic
category. In developing such products, objective assessment of the degree and the type of sensitivity is
H\litlist\studies 12/06
81
desirable. Unfortunately, currently available methods, including measurements of trans-epidermal
water loss (TEWL) and lactic acid stinging test do not correlate well with self-assessed sensitivity and
cannot be used to identify persons who are more prone to develop adverse skin reactions than other
users.
B.D.Park, J.K.Youm,, S.Jeong,E.H.Choi, S.Hun, The Effectiveness of Multi-Lamellar Emulsion
damaged skin. Personal Care Ingredients Asia, March 2001
H.Song, The Effects of Inositol Extracted from Rice on the Skin. Personal Care Ingredients Asia,
March 2001
K.Mijyajmoto, Quantitative comparison of the differences in facial skin aging and Skin
Biophysical Properties in Japanese femals living in south and north part of Japan, and global
research expansion on Caucasians, East Asians, Indian Asian and Latinos. 5
th
ASCS, March 2001
L.Rigano, F,Distante, A.Bonfigli, E.Berardesca, Functional map of normal and sensitive facial
skin for trans-epidermal water loss, capacitance and microcirculation. 5
th
ASCS March 2001
E.Apt, R. I.S.Tranggono, Comparative Study of Several Whitening Agents in Cosmetic Products.
5
th
ASCS March 2001
A.Msi, T.Rosemiarti, E.Apt, R.Tranggono, Comparison Study on Single and Multi Alpha Hydroxy
Acids in Decreasing the Number of Melanin. 5
th
ASCS March 2001
F.Di Pierro, G.Guglielmini, A.Cristoni,Cosmetic Evaluation of Cucurbita Pepo and Zanthoxylum
Alatum Supercritical CO
2
Extracts. 5
th
ASCS March 2001
M.Park, S.Ma, J.Kim, H. Hanbul, Study of Preparation of Sodium Chloride-Free w/s Emulsion
Using NFM, Chitin Derivatives and the Other. 5
th
ASCS March 2001
Health Surveillance. HSE (Health & Safety Guidance), March 2001
A.O.Barel, R.Lambrecht, P.Clarys, Mechanical Function of the Skin: State of the Art. Skin
Bioengineering. Vol 26, March 2001
The in vivo mechanical properties of the human skin have been studied extenively. The skin is a
complex five-layered structure organ, which as many other biological materials presents the typical
properties of elastic solids and various liquids in a combined way known as viscoelastic properties.
Typical mechanical properties of viscoelastic material are nonlinear stress-strain properties with
hysteresis (the stress-strain curve obtained during loading will not be superposed by the curve
obtained during unloading).
D.Iliev, U.Hinnen, P.Elsner, Skin Bioengineering Methods in Occupational Dermatology. Skin
Bioengineering Vol. 26, March 2001
Measuring biophysical properties of the skin is not only useful to study cutaneous physiology and
pathology but may also be of value for the prediction of eczema risk, for the detection of subclinical
eczema and for therapy control in occupational dermatology.
M.Rohr, K.Schrader, Climatic Influence on Cosmetic Skin Parameters. Skin Bioengineering Vol.
26, March 2001.
A high degree of standardization is required in order to quantify the effects of cosmetics. As the
following discussion will show, it is not only normal standardization procedures, such as
acclimatization of volunteers in special air-conditioned laboratories, which have to be taken into
consideration when interpreting objective and subjective cosmetic parameters, but also the effect of
the actual climate during the application phase and especially during the days of measurement.
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G.Pellacani, B.Belletti, St.Seidenari, Evaluation of the Short-Term Effects of Skin Care Products:
A Comparison between Capacitance Values and Echographic Parameters of Epidermal
Hydration. Skin Bioengineering, Vol. 26, March 2001.
The hydration kinetics of the epidermis is influenced by various environmental conditions and
controlled by the organism. Since the stratum corneum receives water from within the body and from
the environment. Different techniques have been employed to detect and measure surface changes
after application of skin care products, to define the mechanisms of water binding in the stratum
corneum and to objectively measure the hydration effects of moisturizers.
B.Gabard, P.Treffel, Correlation of in vitro and in vivo Testing. Skin Bioengineering, Vol. 26,
March 2001.
A major problem encountered during the development of topical preparations not designed for
transdermal but for local activity is to ensure sufficient therapeutic activity or, in the case of generic
formulations, bioequivalence with the branded product. There are several possible approaches to
evaluate the penetration of drugs into the skin and to investigte the effect of different vehicles on
topical drug delivery.
R.R. Wickett, Stretching the Skin Surface: Skin Elasticity. C&T, March 2001.
This contribution to the series From Test to Claim deals with the instrumental measurement of skin
elasticity, discussing measuring conditions, relevant parameters to record, data analysis and the type of
conclusions that could be drawn from such measurements. In particular, this paper will review the use
of the Dermal Torque Meter (DTM) and the Cutometer to measure the elasticity of the stratum
corneum.
T. Hermanns-Le, F. Jonlet, A.Scheen, G.E.Pierard, Age- and Body Mass Index-Related Changes in
Cutaneous Shear Wave Velocity. Experimental Gerontology, 36, 363-372, 2001
J.L. Nizet, C. Pierard-Franchimont, G.E.Pierard, Influence of Body Posture and Gravitational
Forces on Shear Wave Propagation in the Skin. Dermatology, 202, 177-180, 2001-05-14
D.Khazaka, News in the Field of Elasticity Measurement. Cosmetic Science Conference 2001
Th.Dietz, Two Novel O/W Emulsifiers with Complementary Properties. Cosmetic Science
Conference 2001.
M.Ghyczy, W.Gehring, V.Vacata, B.Gertchen-Ohligschlger, Normalisation of Skin Humidity in
SLS Pertubed Human Skin In Vivo by Gel State Phosphatidylcholine. Cosmetic Science
Conference 2001
K.Jones, St.Orndorff, Aloesin: A Potent Skin Whitener, Cosmetic Science Conference 2001
T.H.Kim. E.H.Choi, Y.C.Kang, S.H.Lee, S.K.Ahn, The Effects of Topical -Hydroxyacids on the
Normal Skin Barrier of Hairless Mice. British Journal of Dermatology 4011, 2001
K.Y.Roh, D.Kim, S.J.Ha, Y.J.Ro, J.W.Kim,H.J.Lee, Pigmentation in Koreans: Study of the
Differences from Caucasians in Age, Gender and Seasonal Variations. British Journal of
Dermatology 3958, 2001
M. Paye, Y.Cartiaux, V.Goffin, G.E. Pierard, Hand and Forearm Skin: Comparison of their
Respective Responsiveness of Surfactants. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.7, No.2, May 2001
A.O.Barel, R.Lambrecht, P.Clarys, B.M.Morrison, jr., M.Paye, A Comparative Study of the Effects
on the Skin of a Classical Bar Soap and a Syndet Cleansing Bar in Normal Use Conditions and
in the Soap Chamber Test. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.7, No.2, May 2001
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A.E.Sagiv, S.Dikstein, A.Ingber, The Efficiency of Humectants as Skin Moisturizers in the
Presence of Oil. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.7, No.1, February 2001
Y.Yoshizawa, H.Tanojo, S.J. Kim, H.I.Maibach, Sea Water or its Components Alter Experimental
Irritant Dermatitis in Man. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.7, No.1, February 2001
S.J.Bashir, A.Chew, A.Anigbogu, F.Dreher, H.I.Maibach, Physical and Physiological Effects of
Stratum Corneum Tape Stripping. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.7, No.1, February 2001
G.G.Hillebrand, B.Schnell, K.Miyamoto, M.Ichihashi, R.Shinkura, S.Akiba, The Age-Dependent
Changes in Skin Condition in Japanese Females Living in Northern Versus Southern Japan.
IFSCC Magazine, Vol. 4, No. 2, April/June 2001.
Ch.Fox, Literature and Patent Review: Analytical and Test Methodologies 1990-2000, Part I.
C&T, Vol. 116, No. 4, April 2001-05-21
W.Gehring, M.Gloor, Der Effekt von Dexpanthenol bei experimentell geschdigter Haut. (The
effect of dexpanthenole in experimentally damaged skin). H+G, Band 76, April 2001-05-21
J.Lbbe, C.Ruffieux, G.van Melle, D.Perrenoud, Irritatives Potenzial des Hndedesinfektions-
mittels n-propanol auf vorgeschdigter Haut. H+G, Supplement 1/2001
T.Reuther, S.C.Behrens-Williams, M.Kerscher, Untersuchungen zur Wirkung von
Mometasonfuroat-Fettcreme auf die epidermale Barriere. H+G, Supplement 2/2001
J.Djordjevic, G.Vuleta, H.Zhai, H.I.Maibach, J.Milic, Effect of the Oil Phase of O/W Emulsions
with Vitamin E Acetate on Skin Moisutre Content and Skin Barrier Function. 2001 IFSCC
Conference, Stockholm/Sweden, May 7-9, 2001
R.Roguet, C.Faller, F.Dreher, C.Lotte, I.Harris, M.Bracher, D.Pollet, U.Pfannenbecker, N.Dami,
M.Ponec, Evaluation of Reconstructed Human Epidermis Kits for the In Vitro Assessment of
Cosmetic Safety. 2001 IFSCC Conference, Stockholm/Sweden, May 7-9, 2001
W.Wigger-Alberti, A.Krebs, N.Gritz, K.P.Wilhelm, P.Elsner, Concurrent Testing of Cutaneous
Irritants in Vivo. 2001 IFSCC Conference, Stockholm/Sweden, May 7-9, 2001
H.M.Ribeiro, J.Morais, L.Rodrigues, Long-term Influence of Polymers on the Biological
Properties of the In Vivo Normal Human Skin. 2001 IFSCC Conference, Stockholm/Sweden, May
7-9, 2001
N. Widler, A.Sigrist, F.Gafner, Lipid Analysis and Transepidermal Water Loss in Snakes. 2001
IFSCC Conference, Stockholm/Sweden, May 7-9, 2001
P.Contreiras Pinto, L.M. Pereira, R.Minhos, J.Serra, L.Rodrigues, The In Vivo Skin Water Content
Dynamical Analysis Through Compartmental Modeling a Validation Approach. 2001 IFSCC
Conference, Stockholm/Sweden, May 7-9, 2001
B.Deog Park, Y.Kim, M.Jin Lee, J.K. Youm, S.Jeong,E.Ho Choi, S. Hun Lee, Properties of a
Pneudoceramide Multi-Lamellar Emulsion In Vitro and In Vivo. C&T June 2001
Many physiochemical and biological functions of skin-care products in the last decade were generally
concerned with the stratum corneum (SC). The structure of the SC was proposed as a brick & mortar
model by Elias in 1981. Bricks represented the corneocytes and intercellular lipids (composed of
cholesterols, fatty acids and ceramides) formed the mortar.
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M.Gloor, B.Wasik, W.Gehring, Hat ein Hamamelis-Destillat eine entzndungshemmende
Wirkung?. H+G Zeitschrift, Ausgabe 7/8-2001.
Fragestellung: Beeinflut der Wirkstoff Hamamelis die irritative Reaktion der Haut bei
experimentellen Irritationsmodellen? Versuchsanordnung: Bei 15 Versuchspersonen wurde der
Natriumlaurylsure (NLS)-Irritationstest an jeweils 4 Versuchsstellen beider Unterarme volar
durchgefhrt. Es wurde einmal tglich 1% NLS 30 Minuten lang appliziert. Nach Beendigung der
NLS-Einwirkung wurden die Prfprperationen aufgetragen. An den jeweils 4 symmetrischen
Versuchsstellen wurden geprft.
R.Estanislao, M.Suero, C.Galzote, Z.Rivera, A.Khaiat, In-Vivo Evaluation of Skin Viscoelasticity
and Anisotropy Using Reviscometer RVM 600. Skin Research Technology 2001
A prototype of a new instrument, Reviscometer RVM 600 from COURAGE+KHAZAKA electronic
GmbH was proven to measure in-vivo skin viscoelasticity and anisotropy. The measurement of the
instrument based on the speed of acoustical shock wave propagation in the skin done in different
directions allowed evaluation of skin firmness and directional variations in viscoelasticity. In-vivo
measurements of facial, volar and dorsal forearm skin of female subjects in four different age groups
from three different test locations (Manila, Seoul and New Delhi) showed that skin firmness and
anisotropy, as measured by the instrument, are age-dependent.
H.Dobrev, Evaluation of the inhibitory activity of topical indomethacin, betamethasone valerate
and emollients on UVL-induced inflammation of means of non-invasive measurements of the
skin elasticity. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine, January 2001.
Topical indomethacin has been reported to inhibit ultraviolet light-induced erythema. The objective of
this study was to verify this assertion and to compare indomethacin 10% ointment to betamethasone
valerate 0.1% ointment, water-in-oil emulsion and oil-in-water emulsion by means of non-invasive
skin elasticity measurements.
K.Articus, Validierung und Anwendung eines photometrischen Verfahrens zur
Rauhigkeitsmessung von Hautoberflchen. Doktorarbeit 2000
Die kosmetische Industrie lobt ihre Produkte mit den unterschiedlichsten Behauptungen (Claims)
aus. Einige lassen sich mit wissenschaftlichen Methoden gut nachweisen und quantifizieren
(befeuchtet die Haut, Triebskorn und Gloor, 1993), andere entziehen sich der biometrischen
Erfassung (macht die Haut geschmeidig). Einige Parameter, die sich metechnisch sehr zuverlssig
erfassen lassen, (transepidermaler Wasserverlust) liefern Aussage, die der Verbraucher nicht selber
nachvollziehen kann (strkt die Barrierefunktion der Haut, Frosch et al.,1993).
F.Ourvrard-Baraton, A.Bernois, D.De Queral, B. Le Varlet, C.M.Vincent, B.Nagot, C.Ailaud,
M.Bayer, N.Garcia, C.Miquel, N.Perichou, P.courtellemont, O.Doucet, A.Mavon,C.Mikler,
J.P.Marty, Validation inter-laboratoire dun modle dabsorption percutane in vitro: pouvoir
discriminant de la peau doreille de porc. Infuence de la perte insensible en eau (P.I.E.) et de la
pilosit. Poster for SFIC,Lausanne/CH, Juli 2001
I.Castiel-Higounenc, R.Jourdain, C.Queille-Roussel, C.Ferraris, P.Bastien, R.Schmidt, O.de
Lacharrire, IS barrier function disrupted in atopic xeroxis. Poster for SFIC,Lausanne/CH, Juli
2001
K.Tsukahara, Y.Takema, S.Moriwaki, T.Fujimura, S.Mayama, G.Imokawa, Carbon dioxide laser
treatment promotes repair of the three-dimensional network of elastic fibres in rat skin, British
Journal of Dermatology, Vo143, 2001.
We have previously reported that ultraviolet (UV) B irradiation induces a loss of linearity in the three-
dimensional structure of dermal elastic fibres, which results in the reduction of elastic properties of the
skin and leads to wrinkle formation. We further reported that repair of wrinkles by all-trans retinoic
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acid is accompanied by recovery of the linearity of elastic fibres. Carbon dixide lasers are widely used
for treating wrinkles in cosmetic surgery.
C.Fuchs, C.Heinemann, S.Schliemann-Willers, P.Elsner, Wirksamkeitsnachweis eines
Pflegeproduktes. Kosmetische Medizin 4/2001.
Berichtet wird ber eine dreiwchige Anwendungsbeobachtung eines Pflegeproduktes, in welcher der
Einfluss des Produktes auf die Hornschichtfeuchtigkeit an 20 Probanden mit atopischer
Hautdisposition und trockener, irritierbarer Haut in Form einer Kurz- und Langzeitstudie getestet
wurde.
D.Perrenoud, D.Gallezot, G.Van Melle, The efficacy of a protective cream in a real-world
apprentice hairdresser environment. Contact Dermatitis Vol.45 No.3, September 2001.
The object of this study was to compare the protective action of a new barrier cream to its vehicle in
the context of hand irritation of apprentice hairdressers caused by repeated shampooing and exposure
to hair-care products.
Ch.Y.Levin, H.I. Maibach, Do cool water or physiologic saline compresses enhance resolution of
experimentally-induced irritant contact dermatitis? Contact Dermatitis Vol.45 No.3, September
2001
Acute irritant contact dermatitis (ICD) is frequently treated with cool water or saline compresses.
While presumed effective, little quantitative evaluation documents the treatments benefit. This study
sought to determine the efficacy of both distilled water and physiologic saline compresses on
experimentally-induced ICD.
P. Clarys, L.Lambrechts, K.Alewaeters, A.O.Barel, Influence of in vivo iontophoresis on the skin
barrier and percutaneous penetration. Congress Stratum Corneum III, Basel, September 2001.
M.Rohr, A.Schrader, FOITS Corneometry influenced by experimental side conditions. Congress
Stratum Corneum III, Basel, September 2001.
I.Le Fur, F.Morizot, S.Lpez, C.Guinot, J.Latreille, E.Tschachler, Seasonal changes in skin
biophysical properties in healthy Caucasian women. Congress Stratum Corneum III, Basel,
September 2001.
M. Egawa, T.Hirao, M.Takahashi, The measurement of skin friction using a frictional feel
analyzer. Congress Stratum Corneum III, Basel, September 2001.
K.Articus, Ch.A.Brown, K.P.Wilhelm, Scale-sensitive fractal analysis using the patchwork method
for the assessment of skin roughness. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.7, No. 2, August 2001.
As skin roughness and wrinkles are easily perceived by the consumer, quantifying skin surface
structures is a vital parameter for cosmetic product development. As more tools are available for
measuring three-dimensional (3-D) surface data, instead of tow-dimensional (2-D) profile lines, new
algorithms are desirable, to take advantage of the information gathered.
J.F.Hermanns, L.Petit, T.Hermanns-Le, G.Pierard, Analytic quantification of phototype-related
regional skin complexion. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.7, No. 2, August 2001.
Narrow-band spectrophotometry that yields melanin (M) and erythema (E) indexes is a convenient
method for assessing skin colour. The objective of the study was to assess the phenotype-associated
body site differences in skin complexion.
K.De Paepe, K.Janssens, JP Hachem, D.Roseeuw, V.Rogiers, Squamometry as a screening method
for the evaluation of hydrating products. Skin Research and Technology, Vol.7, No. 2, August
2001.
Squamometry is a combination of sampling corneocytes by adhesive coated discs following by colour
measurements after staining the cells. In this study, the correlation between stratum corneum (SC)
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hydration and scaling was investigated using capacitance measurements and squamometry,
respecitively.
H.Blitz, HP Nissen, S.Sustmann, Body care for sensitive and especially dry skin. Scientific Study
Eubos Med 2001
The test product EUBOS sensitive shower oil F exhibits very gooed skin compatibility with dry and
very dry skin and is also suitable for cleansing eczematous skin.
S.Sustmann, Body care for dry skin. Scientific Study Eubos Med 2001
The test product EUBOS DERMAL BALSAM is very well-tolerated by the skin. Evidence of the
suitability of the product for dry skin conditions with an impaired barrier function was provided by
studies on the regeneration of damaged skin as well as the positive effect on skin moisture, tautness,
and roughness.
S.Sustmann, Face care for sensitive and particularly dry skin. Scientific Study Eubos Med 2001
The test products EUBOS sensitive moisturing cream and EUBOS sensitive regenerating cream are
characterized by excellent skin compatibility particularly with sensitive and dry skin. The very good
skin compatibility is confirmed by both the subjective assessment of the subjects and the objective
assessments made in a controlled test program.
HP Nissen, S.Sustmann, Body care for normal to oily and sensitive skins. Scientific Study Eubos
Med 2001
The test product EUBOS liquid is characterized by the following properties on dermatological and
physiological skin testing:
- Excellent skin compatibility
- Intensive cleansing/defatting effect on the skin surface
- No drying-out of the skin
- No refatting properties
P.M. Van Zuijlen, Perspectives On Burn Scar Evaluation and Artificial Skin. Dissertation 2002
C.Pirard-Franchimont, G.E.Pirard, Postmenopausal Aging of the Sebaceous Follicle: A
Comparison between Women Receiving Hormone Replacement Therapy or Not. Dermatology
07/2002
The endocrine control of sebaceous follicles is complex in women. During aging, a decline in sebum
output is often experienced. However, some women report increased seborrhea after the menopause.
C.Pirard-Franchimont, G.E. Pirard, Beyond a Glimpse at Seasonal Dry Skin: A Review.
Exogenous Dermatology 2002
On clinical ground, the so-called dry skin corresponds in reality to a rough, sometimes flaky and scaly
stratum corneum The spectrum of xerotic disorders is quite large encompassing diverse aetiologies and
physiopathological pathways.
J. Djordjevic, g. Vuleta, J. Milic, H. Zhai, H. Maibach, O/W Emulsions Enriched with Vitamin E.
Cosmetics & Toiletries 2002 April, Vol. 117, Nr. 4
Vitamin E has an important protective function for the entire organism. It is believed that the broad
biological activities of vitamin E are due to its ability to inhibit lipid peroxidation and stabilize
biological membranes.
Charles Fox, Antimicrobials, Cosmetics & Toiletries 2002 April, Vol. 117, Nr. 4
This article reviews antimicrobial agents and their use in personal care products as reported in more
than 50 patents and journal articles published between 1996 and 2001
J. W. Wiechers, C. Verboom, V. A. L. Wortel, W. A. Starmans, Multifunctionality: From One in
More to More in One,Cosmetics & Toiletries 2002 April, Vol. 117, Nr. 4
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The authors explain the requirements for interactions of single components in mixtures in order to
obtain multifunctional mixtures. These requirements include synergy and the need to excel in a single
specific performance.
John Woodruff, Body of evidence, Test, Soap, Perfumery & Cosmetics 2002 April
Proving effect may not be new but it is of course an absolute requirement these days. And there are
many different ways of going about it, explains John Woodruff
A. Pagnoni, Photoaging and Photodocumentation, Cosmetics & Toiletries, January 2002, Vol. 117,
Nr. 1
Techniques to photograph or image skin photodamage have reached new levels of sophistication. This
survey discusses clinical grading, light imaging techniques, videomicroscopy and threedimensional in
vivo measuring systems.
S. Richert, A. Schrader, K. Schrader, Comparing Methods to Measure Porcine Skin Integrity In
Vitro, Cosmetics & Toiletries, January 2002, Vol. 117, Nr. 1
To confirm the integrity of porcine skin prior to penetration tests, published studies show that
measuring transepidermal water loss, transdermal electrical resistance or caffeine penetration levels
are often chosen techniques. New results demonstrate that TEWL is the superior method.
B. Gabard, S. Schliemann-Willers, Better Skin Protection with New Barrier Creams, SFW
Journal, 128. Jahrgang 4-2002
Skin protection creams are considered judicially as cosmetics. Besides a good efficacy, a main
requirement to be fulfilled by these preparations is maximal safety as they are often applied on
lesioned skin.
H. Tronnier,Effects of Textiles on Human Skin, SFW Journal, 128. Jahrgang 4-2002
Very often, the people concerned as their employers make detergent residues in clothes responsible for
skin reaction to textiles. Sometimes allergies are suspected.
G. Maramldi, M. A. Esposito, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate: A Multifunctional Skin Lightener,
Cosmetics & Toiletries, March 2002, Vol. 117, Nr. 3
Skin lightening and sebum normalization are among the useful cosmetic functions of potassium
azeloyl diglycinate, a soluble derivative of azelaic acid.
N. Widler, A. Sigrist, F. M. Gafner, Lipid Analysis and Transepidermal Water Loss in Snakes,
IFSCC Magazine January/March 2002, Vol. 5, Nr. 1
The lipids of 101 snake sheddings from 32 different species kept at Pentapharms serpentarium were
extracted and analysed by HPLC/LSD (light scattering detection) and TLC. The snake shedding
extracts were compared with those of human stratum corneum.
E. Camel, L. Arnaud-Boissel, S. Schnebert, M. Neveu, S.K. Tan, J-P. Guillot, Does Asian Skin Induce
Significant Changes in Sun Protection Factor (SPF) Determination Compared to Caucasian
Skin: One of the First In-Vivo Correlations, IFSCC Magazine January/March 2002, Vol. 5, Nr. 1
The aim if this study was to compare the SPF of three sunscreens (SPF 6/8 15/20 25/30)and 2
standards (FDA, COLIPA fla P2), according to COLIPA recommendations, in panels of Asian
(Singapore) and Caucasian (France) volunteers.
G. G. Hillebrand, M. J. Levine, K. Miyamoto, The Age-Dependent Changes in Skin Condition in
African Americans, Asian Indians, Caucasians, East Asians, and Latinos, IFSCC Magazine,
October/December 2001, Vol. 4, Nr. 4
Understanding the similarities and differences in skin characteristics as a function of age, race and
geography should aid in the development of skin care products that better meet consumers skin care
needs around the world.
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P. Contreiras Pinto, L. M. Pereira, R. Minhs, L M. Rodrigues, Testing the Discriminative Capacity
of Compartmental Modeling for the Analysis of the IN-VIVO Epidermal Water Content
Changes Following Topical Application under Occlusion, IFSCC Magazine, April/June 2002, Vol.
5 No. 2
Mathematical modelling of cutaneous variables is an attractive strategy to meet the complex nature of
in-vivo skin, especially in the presence of an external stimulus such as a topical product.
S. Schliemann-Willers, Wigger-Alberti, P. Kleesz, R. grieshaber, P. Elsner, Natural vegetable fats in
the prevention of irritant contact dermatitis, Contact Dermatitis, January 2002, Vol. 46 No. 1
Chronic irritant contact dermatitis (ICD) is one of the most pressing problems in occupational
medicine and is common in the food processing industry. To date, protective creams that fulfil the
special requirements in the foodstuffs industry have not been available.
C. Hun Huh, K. Il Seo, S. Duck Kim, Ji Han, Hee Chul Eun, Biophysical changes after mechanical
injury of the stratum corneum in normal skin, Contact Dermatitis, January 2002, Vol. 46 No. 1
Scrubbing off the stratum corneum with a rough towel after soaking in warm water is a bathing custom
unique to Korea. However, Korean dermatologists have advised against this practice due to the
potential harm that it may cause, though there is little data to support this advice.
M. Fuchs, S. Schliemann-Willers, C. Heinemann, P. Elsner, Tacrolimus enhances irritation in a 5-
day human irritancy in vivo model, Contact Dermatitis, May 2002, Vol 46 No. 5
Tacrolimus (FK 506) is a macrolide discovered in 1984 as a metabolic product of Streptomyces
tsukabaensis. It has been used successfully in treating atopic dermatitis, allergic contact dermatitis,
lichen planus mucosae and pyoderma gangrenosum. In the present study, we evaluated the
antiinflammatory activity of FK506 in 2 human skin inflammation models.
M. Stcker, M. Hoffmann, P. Altmeyer, Instrumental evaluation of retinoid-induced skin irritation,
Skin Research and Technology 2002, No. 8
Adapting retinoid therapy to the patients skin type can reduce the initial irritative side-effects. During
the first days, patients with skin type 1 or 2 should add a medium potency corticosteroid. Stronger skin
irritation caused by tazarotene therapy increases therapy effects.
K.-P. Wilhelm, K. Kaspar, F. Schumann, K. Articus, Development and validation of a
semiautomatic image analysis system for measuring skin desquamation with D-Squames, Skin
Research and Technology 2002, No. 8
Analysing D-Squames with the image analysis system proved to be reproducible, independent of the
shape of ROI, cost effective and fast and easy to operate. It has shown to be a suitable and reliable
method for the objective determination of desquamation levels.
Urquhart C., Rayner C., Mavena
Mg
46
Dead Sea Salt Balneotherapy Accelerates Restoration of
Barrier Function in Japanese Skin, 20
th
World Congress of Dermatology, Paris
Therapeutic bathing in Dead Sea salt solution in the ambulatory setting is commonly referred to as
Balneotherapy. Chronic skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis are often associated
with a poor hydration status and a compromised barrier function of the skin. Dead Sea salts have a
different mineral composition to salts arising from other sources.
Seidenari S., University of Modena, Italy, Non-Invasive Techniques for Diagnosis and Monitoring
of Skin Diseases: an Updating of Recent Techniques useful in Dermatology, 20
th
World Congress
of Dermatology, Paris
Besides the necessity of a realistic assessment of spontaneous course of diseases, the evaluation of the
cost/benefit ratio of potentially new treatments is increasingly required. Objective documentation of
dermatological disorders can be achieved by means of bioengineering techniques, which provide
numerical values as a basis for statistical analysis and enable instant in vivo information in the absence
of interferences with the spontaneous course of the disease.
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Le Fur I., Lopez S., Morizot F., Latreille J., Guinot C., Tschachler E., Age-Related Reference
Ranges for Skin Biophysical Parameters in Healthy Women, 20
th
World Congress of Dermatology,
Paris
Purpose: The aim of this study was to establish age-related reference ranges in healthy Caucasian
women for some widely used skin biophysical parameters.
Le Fur I., Reinberg A., Lopez S., Morizot F., Tschachler E., Facial Skin Circadian Rhythms of
Healthy Women Investigated Using Non-Invasive Methods, 20
th
World Congress of Dermatology,
Paris
Purpose: The aim of this study was to document around the clock changes in a set of skin biophysical
parameters.
Holm E.A., Jemec G.B.E., Objective Measurement of Atopic Dermatitis with Non-Invasive
Techniques, 20
th
World Congress of Dermatology, Paris
Quantification of desease severity is a prerequisite for the development of evidence based therapy.
Today, patient history and clinical scoring are the main tools for dermatologists when attempting to
assess the morbidity of patients with atopic dermatitis AD. These methods however have their
limitations, as they all are operator dependant and frequently show poor inter- and intra-observer
reproducibility.
F. Distante, L. Rigano, R. DAgostino, A. Bonfigli, E. Berardesca, Intra- and Inter-Individual
Differences in Sensitive Skin, Cosmetics &Toiletries July 2002, Vol. 117, No. 7,
The authors investigated the intra-individual and the inter-individual variations of transepidermal
water loss, capacitance and microcirculation in 10 different facial areas in subjects with sensitive
skin and in subjects with non-sensitive skin.
Johann W. Wiechers, Frans J. Groenhof, Vincent A. L. Wortel, Richard M. Miller, Neil A. Hindle,
Anthony Drewitt-Barlow, Octadecenedioic Acid for a More Even Skin Tone, Cosmetics &Toiletries
July 2002, Vol. 117, No. 7,
Octadecenedioic acid, a new nature-derived ingredient made via biofermentation from oleic acid, bas
demonstrated efficacy in a variety of applications, including skin toning, dandruff reduction and
deodorancy.
Rodolphe Korichi (LVMH Lab R&D),Video Imaging in the Measurement of Makeup Efficacy and
Performance, Cosmetics & Toiletries October 2002, Vol. 117 No. 10
Video imaging techniques add quantitative data about the visual effects of makeup when evaluating
efficacy and performance of products such as mascaras, lip colorants, facial foundations and nail
enamels.
Liye Maeyama (Cognis Japan), Whitening Complex with Waltheria indica Extract and Ferulic
Acid, Cosmetics & Toiletries October 2002, Vol. 117 No. 10
Waltheria indica extract, ferulic acid and certain other ingredients act synergistically in a whitening
complex that inhibits tyrosinase and provides mild exfoliation.
EH Choi, W-S Park, E-D Son, SM Hwang, MJ Kim, SK Ahn, SH Lee, The effect of change in
epidermal calcium gradient on stratum corneum lipid and epidermal differentation, The
Essential Stratum Corneum, 2002 Martin Dunitz Ltd.
Lamellar bodies (LBs) are the source of lipid composition of the stratum corneum (SC). SC
intercellular lipid bilayers formed from secreted LBs are the most important structure of the
permeability barrier. The cornified cell envelope (CE), formed during the terminal differentiation of
keratinocytes, is a specialized structure covalently bound with SC intercellular lipids. This forms a
structurally and functionally complete permeability barrier. Also, during epidermal differentiation,
specific keratins are synthesized.
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R. Lambrecht, P. Clarys, K. Alewaeters, A.O. Barel, Influence of in vivo iontophoresis on the skin
barrier and percutaneous penetration, The Essential Stratum Corneum, 2002 Martin Dunitz Ltd.
Iontophoresis is a technique used to enhance the transdermal delivery of a drug by means of an electric
current. The iontophoretic transport is influenced by several factors, such as concentration, size, ionic
strength and the lp of the drug and pH of the solvent, and also by the applied intensity and shape of the
current and the application time.
T. Schmidt, N. Widler, F. Gafner, G. Imanidis, Stratum Corneum lipid composition as a predective
tool for permeability?, The Essential Stratum Corneum, 2002 Martin Dunitz Ltd.
This theory envisages a linear correlation between the logarithm of the steady-state flux and the
exchange cohesive energy between the permeating molecule and the lipid compounds of the stratum
corneum (SC). The latter cohesive parameter is obtained from solubility parameter calculations and an
attempt is made to verify the theoretical approach with experimental permeability data.
M. Rohr, A. Schrader, FOITS corneometry influenced by peripheral expperimental conditions,
The Essential Stratum Corneum, 2002 Martin Dunitz Ltd.
Besides a good compatibility, which should be a matter of course for cosmetic products, the skins
physiological effectiveness, in particular moisture and skin-smoothing effects, are of main interest for
this kind of product. Techniques such as FOITS (Fast Optical In vivo Topometry of human Skin), and
corneometry are used to investigate their effectiveness. In order to succeed in reproducible and
statistically significant results, experimental side conditions, such as a defined panel, controlled
climatic conditions or a test design that includes a positive and a negative standard, are the basic
starting tools.
D. Black, A. Del Pozo, Y. Gall, Evaluation of surfactant effects on stratum corneum using
squamometry, transepidermal water loss measurements and the sorption-desorption test, The
Essential Stratum Corneum, 2002 Martin Dunitz Ltd.
Overexposure to certain cleansers will result in skin damage, manifested by impaired barrier function,
leading to irritant reactions with prolonged use. Evaluation of barrier function deterioration is thus a
useful indicator of early stratum corneum (SC) damage, and may help to predict potential skin
irritancy for these products. The squamometry technique has been used for assessing cleansers in
terms of their degree of mildness, and appears useful as a complementary method for screening their
irritant potential.
J. Gareiss, M. Ghyczy, Normalization of inflammation and humidity in sodium lauryl sulfate
(SLS) perturbed skin in vivo by gel state phosphatidylcholine, The Essential Stratum Corneum,
2002 Martin Dunitz Ltd.
Phosphatidylcholine (PC) is the most abundant component of biological membranes. It possesses an
intrinsic hydration force, and its metabolites are essential osmoprotectants. PC that is composed of
saturated fatty acids (hydrogenated PC), also named gel-state PC or HPC, possesses physical
properties that are comparable with those of the components of the skin permeability barrier.
K. De Paepe, J.-P. Hachem, E. Vanpee, D. Roseeuw, V. Rogiers, Beneficial corneotherapeutic
effects of skin-tolerance-tested moisturizing creams, The Essential Stratum Corneum, 2002 Martin
Dunitz Ltd.
In the present work, an oil-in-water (o/w) moisturizing cream was applied to experimentally elicited,
scaly skin in order to investigate whether the product could promote a more rapid recovery of the
disturbed barrier function (as measured by transepidermal water loss (TEWL measurements) than
physiological barrier repair. Experimental models of both irritant (ICD) and allergic (ACD) contact
dermatitits were applied. ICD was provoked by sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), well known for its
damaging action on the skin barrier function. The ACD study concerned a nickelmediated contact
allergy patch (CAP) test, carried out in nickel-sensitized volunteers.
H\litlist\studies 12/06
91
I Le Fur, F. Morizot, S. Lopez, C. Guinot, J. Latreille, E. Tschachler, Seasonal changes in skin
biophysical properties in healthy Caucasian women, The Essential Stratum Corneum, 2002 Martin
Dunitz Ltd.
The human skin surface has to adapt constantly to changing environmental conditions, such as
temperature and relative humidity. Several studies have demonstrated the detrimental effects of winter
weather in our countries on the skin and seasonal changes in certain biophysical parameters. The work
presented here examines seasonal variations of biophysical parameters on facial skin in Caucasian
women in France.
E. Proksch, H.P. Nissen, M.F. Bremgartner, C.J. Urquhart, Erhhung der Hautfeuchtigkeit durch
Mg-reiches Duschgel, Kosmetische Medizin, 4/2002, 23. Jahrgang
Baden oder Duschen mit gewhnlichen Detergenzformulierungen kann zu Problemen bei Patienten
mit Psoriasis, Ekzemen und bei trockener Haut fhren. Detergenzien knnen eine Irritation
verursachen und die Trockenheit der Haut verschlimmern. Die therapeutische Wirkung des Totes
Meer Salzes bei Hauterkrankungen ist seit der Antike bekannt; Magnesiumsalze sind der
berwiegende Bestandteil des Salzes aus dem Toten Meer. In der vorliegenden Untersuchung wurde
die Wirkung eines Duschgels, welches ein besonders magnesiumchlorid-reiches Salz aus der Tiefe des
Toten Meeresenthlt (Mavena Derma Line Mg46 Duschgel), zur Reinigung bei Psoriatikern
eingesetzt.
T. Gambichler, P. Altmeyer, S. Rotterdam, M. Herde, M. Stcker, K. Hoffmann, Bioengineering der
Haut, Kosmetische Medizin, 4/2002, 23. Jahrgang
Nicht-invasive Untersuchungstechniken (Bioengineering) am Hautorgan werden in der Dermatologie
und Kosmetologie zunehmend eingesetzt. Gegenber der bloen klinischen Untersuchung bietet der
Einsatz von Bioengineering-Methoden viele Vorteile. Es lassen sich morphologische und funktionelle
Parameter der Haut objektiv darstellen und standardisiert messen, die der bloen klinischen
Untersuchung bzw. sensorischen Wahrnehmung oft unzugnglich sind.
MegaSun beauty & care, Sonnen ohne Risiko, Kosmetische Medizin, 4/2002, 23. Jahrgang
Sonne gilt fr groe Bevlkerungsteile als die Universal-Arznei aus der Himmelsapotheke. Doch
der Dermatologe rt: Was fr die Risiken und Wirkungen von Arzneimitteln gilt, gilt auch fr die
Solarien-Besonnung: Die Dosis ist entscheidend. Auf der Pressekonferenz am 16.10.2002 in Hamburg
prsentierte die KBL-Solarien AG den Medien sowie dem Fachhandel ein auf streng
wissenschaftlicher Basis entwickeltes Gert zur individuellen Hauttypbestimmung, um Solarstrahlen
fr gesunde und natrliche Brune optimal zu dosieren das megaSun care Terminal.
P. Humbert, P. Creidi, B. Chadoutaud, J.C. Choulot, P. Msika, Photoageing: clinical and
biometrological results of a double-blind randomized trial evaluating a new cosmetic product
containing avocadofurane plus pentapeptides and retinol (abstract), 11
th
Congress of the
European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, Prag 2002.
The role of metallo matricial proteinases (MMPs) in cutaneous ageing is now well established.
Moreover the decrease of TGF-beta has been more recently discovered. Two new molecules have been
developed in this field: pentapeptides which inhibit the production of MMP1, -3, -9 by UV exposure
on fibroblast cultures and pure heptadecadienylfurane (Avocadofuranea) which increases the collagen
synthesis via a specific stimulation of TGF beta.
U. Uksal, C. Atasavun, B. zcelik, S. Utas, A. Ferahbas, The effects of hormone replacement
therapy on the skin of postmenopausal women (abstract), 11
th
Congress of the European Academy
of Dermatology and Venereology, Prag 2002.
The study was performed to compare skin pH, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin surface lipids
and hydration in postmenopausal women receiving hormone replacement therapy (HRT) and those
who not. Two parallel age-matched groups (each 24) of 48 postmenopausal women evaluated by
tewameter, sebumeter, pHmeter and corneometer.
H\litlist\studies 12/06
92
Mariko Egawa, Motoki Oguri, Tomohiro Kuwahara, Motoji Takahashi, Effect of exposure of human
skin to a dry environment, Skin research and Technology, Vol. 8,No. 4, Nov. 2002
There was a significant decrease of water content of stratum corneum at both test sites from the time
points 0 h to 3 h and 6 h (P<0.01) and transepidermal water loss from the time point 0 h to 6 h
(P<0.05). Regarding the roughness parameters, a significant increase of Rz in the directions of
45/225 and 90/270 to the body axis and Sm in the directions of 0/180 (P<0.05) on the forearm
and VC1 (P<0.05) on the cheek.
H.S. Yoon, S.H. Baik, C.H. Oh, Quantitative measurement of desquamation and skin elasticity in
diabetic patients, Skin research and Technology, Vol. 8,No. 4, Nov. 2002
Diabetes mellitus is responsible for many cutaneous alterations. Xerosis and sclerotic change of the
skin are the most common findings. Recently non-invasive computerized devices have been developed
and used for determining the desquamation rate and measuring the mechanical properties of the skin.
Using these devices, the necessity to characterize the conditions of the skin in the healthy as well as
the diseased state is increasing.
Nirmal Koshti, Shubhangi Naik, An absorbing matter, SPC Asia, November 2002
The harmful effects of solar UV radiation on skin and hair are well documented. The damage to white
skin can be extremely severe. It starts with erythema, goes on to sunburn and can ultimately end in
skin cancer. The damage to hair, particularly blonde, is significant , too. Solar UV radiation makes
hair brittle, rough and difficult to comb. Human hair has been shown to lose tensile strength as a result
of cleavage of the disulphide bond of hair keratin upon exposure to UV radiation.
G.R. Leonardi, L. R. Gaspar, P.M. Campos, Application of a non-invasive method to study the
moisturizing effect of formulation containing vitamins A or E or ceramide on human skin,
Journal of Cosmetic Science, Vol. 53, No. 5, September/October 2002
Moisturizers containing vitamins A and E as well as ceramides are believed to improve the skin
condition by increasing the water content of the stratum corneum. The aim of this research was to
evaluate, through the capacitance method (a non-invasive method), the moisturizing effect of an O/W
emulsion (non-ionic self-emulsifying base) containing vitamin A palmitate, vitamin E acetate, and
ceramide III on human skin. The studies were carried out on a group of 40 healthy Caucasian female
test subjects between 30 and 45 years of age, using the Corneometer CM 825 PC.
G. Yener, T. Incegl, Importance of protection from harmful effects of solar radiation by using
solid lipid micropheres of UV filters, Journal of Cosmetic Science, Vol. 53, No. 5,
September/October 2002
Sun protecting substances are capable of protecting humans from harmful effects of solar radiation
such as aging and skin cancers. Due to the depletion in ozone layer, research regarding to sun
protection has become a major concern. Since these preparations are often applied an large skin areas
even low penetration rates can cause significant amount of chemical UV absorber to enter the body.
Sun protecting preparations need to achieve a controlled release.
Liye Maeyama Cognis Japan, Synergistic whitening complex with Waltheria indica extract and
ferulic acid, Personal Care, November 2002
Melanins are black polymeric pigments that determine skin and hair color. An abnormal increase in
the amount of melanin in the epidermis is the reason for hyperpigmentation such as cloasma, freckles,
etc. melanin is synthesized by specialized cells, the melanocytes, which are located in the basal layer
of the epidermis. Stored in melanosomes (granules in the melanocytes), the melanins are distributed to
keratinocytes surrounding the melanocytes.
Ken-ichiro Ogoshi, Makiko Iguchi, Hachiro Tagami, Functional analysis of the stratum corneum
of scalp skin:studies in patients with alopecia areata and androgenetic alopecia, Arch. Dermatol.
Res. (2000) , Springer-Verlag
Because of the presence of thick long hairs on the scalp, little information is available concerning the
functional characteristics of the stratum corneum (SC) of scalp skin. We therefore conducted a
H\litlist\studies 12/06
93
functional study of the SC of lesional scalp skin of patients with alopecia areata and of patients with
androgenetic alopecia.We compared the scalp with the cheek and the flexor surface of the forearm
(volar forearm). The water barrier function of the scalp SC of both patient groups, in terms of
transepidermal water loss (TEWL), was almost comparable to that of the volar forearm, and was far
better than that of facial skin.
P.G. Sator, J.B. Schmidt, M.O. Sator, J.C. huber, H. Hnigsmann, Parameters of skin aging during
hormone replacement therapy, EADV /th Congress, Abstract Submission Form
All patients with HRT showed an increase in skin hydration, elasticity and thickness, as well as
subjective and clinical improvement.
J.W. Fluhr, A.J. Fowler, J.-P. Hachem, D. Crumrine, P.M. Elias, K.R. Feingold, Stratum corneum
acidification in neonates: impact on permeability barrier homeostasis and integrity/cohesion,
2002 U.S. Symposium of the International Society for Bioengineering and the Skin, Baltimore Oct.
24-26, 2002
Mammalian newborn stratum corneum (SC) displays a near-neutral surface pH, whichdeclines during
the early post-natal period to adult levels. We developed a model to study the mechanisms and
consequences of SC acidification in the neonatal period. In newborn rats the surface pH, measured
with a flat glass electrode (pH-Meter, Courage+Khazaka)declined from an almost neutral pH (6.8)
after birth to physiologic levels (5.6) over 5 days.
J.W. Fluhr, J.L. Sugarman, T.L. Diepgen, M.L. Williams, The objective severity assessment of
atopic dermatitis (OSAAD), 2002 U.S. Symposium of the International Society for Bioengineering
and the Skin, Baltimore Oct. 24-26, 2002
An objective measure utilizing permeability barrier function and stratum corneum hydration, with
computer-assisted estimates for extent of disease. *
J-H. Park, S-W. Son, Y-M. Yoon, M-H. Lee, Y-S. Lee, H-C. Kim, H-S. Oh, C-H. Oh, Objective
evaluation for xerosis by morphological study in atopic dermatitis, 2002 U.S. Symposium of the
International Society for Bioengineering and the Skin, Baltimore Oct. 24-26, 2002
It is essential to be able to measure and record the severity of atopic dermatitis for routine clinical
practice and research. Many clinical severity scales have been proposed, but not yet objective. Of
severity scoring systems currently available for atopic dermatitis, the SCORAD index has been the
most extensively tested.
M-H. Lee, S-J. Hong, J-H. Park, H-C. Kim, H-S. Oh, C-H. Oh, Quantitative evaluation of patch test
results comparing the studies between new skin color analysis technique and other
bioengineerin tools, 2002 U.S. Symposium of the International Society for Bioengineering and the
Skin, Baltimore Oct. 24-26, 2002
Contact dermatitis is a common problem occurring in the field of dermatology and patch test is the
only reliable procedure for the detection of the causative agent. In evaluation of patch test result,
visual scoring system is wide being used as a objective method. However, it is well known that
variations exist even in the interpretations by experienced dermatologist.
Chris a. Helen Packham, Health and Safety at work: special report, Occupational Skin
Management Update, Croner, Issue 60, August 2002.
I. Uhoda, N. Faska, C. Robert, G. Cauwenbergh, G.E. Pierard, Split face study on the cutaneous
tensile effect of 2-dimethylaminoethanol (deanol) gel, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 8, No.
3, August 2002
Large interindividual variations precluded any significant finding in the first study. The DMAE
formulation showed, however, a significant effect characterized by increased shear wave velocity in
the direction where the mechanical anisotropy of skin showed looseness. The DMAE formulation
under investigation increased skin firmness.
H\litlist\studies 12/06
94
S.W. Youn, S.J. Kim, In A Hwang, K.C. Park, Evaluation of facial skin type by sebum secretion:
Discrepancies between subjective description and sebum secretion, Skin Research and
Technology, Vol. 8, No. 3, August 2002
People secrete varying amounts of sebum at different skin sites. Reclassification of skin type based on
sebum secretion revealed that most participants underestimated the amount of facial sebum excretion.
When sebum secretion amounts were compared, a statistically significant difference was apparent
between the oily and dry skin types. However, there were no statistical differences between oily and
normal, and normal and dry skin.
Oba A., Gomi T., Nishimori Y., Graves C., Pearse A., Edwards C., A Non-invasive Method for
Measuring Invisible Subcutaneous UV Damage, 22
nd
IFSCC Congress, Edinburgh, 25.09.2002
Repeated exposure to UV radiation can induce subcutaneous damage leading to permanent structural
degradation and formation of visible wrinkles. In the early stages when damage is slight, the body is
capable of repairing itself , and intervention with certain drugs or treatment products may slow or even
reverse the process of photoaging. This is not possible, however, when damage is severe and
extensive.
K. Sugata, T. Nishijima, T. Kitahara, Y. Takema, Etiology of the intrinsic and natural texture of
human skin, 22
nd
IFSCC Congress, Edinburgh, 25.09.2002
Skin texture, i.e. the surface of the skin consisting of furrows and ridges, is very tangible and
important factor in the cosmetic field which makes skin beautiful. Although moisture and aging
modify the texture, the mechanism(s) underlying the formation of intrinsic and natural skin texture
remain obscure. In this study, to elucidate the etiology governing skin texture formation in vivo, we
removed a portion of the epidermis by the suction blister method and investigated the recovery of the
epidermal architecture of dermoepidermal junctions and viscoelasticity during the regeneration of the
skin.
H. Zahouani, C. Pailler-Mattei, R. Vargiolu, M.A. Abellan, Assessment of the elasticity and tactile
properties of the human skin surface by tribological tests, 22
nd
IFSCC Congress, Edinburgh,
25.09.2002
The current paper describes the assessment of the visco-elasticity and tactile properties during a static
and frictional contact of a spherical indentor on an inner human forearm. The current techniques that
simultaneously measure the normal load F
z
between the contacting surfaces and the friction force F
x
,
can be used to determine the normal and lateral stiffness, the Young modulus, static and dynamic
friction forces F
z
, F
d
and respective friction coefficients:
s
,
d
.
B. Roy, Duoskin: significant hydratisierende Wirkung, Kosmetische Medizin, Ausgabe 5/2002, 23.
Jahrgang
Die hydratisierende Wirkung der beiden Prparate Duoskin Gesicht und Duoskin Krper wurde
bewertet und mit der von zwei hydratisierenden Referenzprodukten verglichen. Es handelt sich um
eine monozentrische, vergleichende, randomisierte Studie. Die Ergebnisse beziehen sich auf 12 Frauen
mit sehr trockener Haut. Jede Probandin war gleichzeitig ihre eigene Kontrolle, da ein Areal
unbehandelt blieb.
E. Kawai, Y. Kohno, K. Ogawa, K. Sakuma, N. Yoshikawa, D. Aso, Can inorganic powders provide
any biological benefit in stratum corneum, while residing on skin surface?, IFSCC magazine, Vol.
5, No. 4, oct./dec. 2002
The plasminogen (Plg) activation system plays a role in the process leading to dry skin with impaired
barrier function, and serine protease inhibitors are known to improve dry skin. In this study. We have
discovered that a urokinase-type Plg activator (UK), a trigger of the Plg activation system, which was
previously believed to work within the epidermis, also exists in stratum corneum (SC). Focusing on
the UK reaction in SC, we sought to develop a method of dry skin prevention.
Rodolphe Korichi, Video imaging in the measurement of makeup efficacy and performance,
Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 117, No. 10, October 2002
H\litlist\studies 12/06
95
Video imaging techniques add quantitative data about the visual effects of makeup when evaluating
efficacy and performance of products such as mascaras, lip colorants, facial foundations and nail
enamels.
Liye Maeyama, Whitening complex with waltheria indica extract and ferulic acid, Cosmetics &
Toiletries, Vol. 117, No. 10, October 2002
Waltheria indica extract, ferulic acid and certain other ingredients act synergistically in a whitening
complex that inhibits tyrosinase and provides mild exfoliation.
I. Le Fur, F. Morizot, S. Lopez Seasonal changes in skin biophysical properties in healthy
Caucasian women, The Essential Stratum Corneum, chapter 60, ed. by R. Marks, J.-L. Lvque, R.
Voegeli, Martin Danitz Ltd., London, 2002.
The human skin surface has to adapt constantly to changing environmental conditions, such as
temperature and relative humidity. Several studies have demonstrated the detrimental effects of winter
weather in our countries on the skin and seasonal changes in certain biophysical parameters. The work
presented here examines seasonal variations of biophysical parameters on facial skin in Caucasian
women in France.
J. Gareiss, M. Ghyczy Normalization of inflammation and humidity in sodium lauryl sulfate
(SLS)-perturbed skin in vivo by gel state phosphatidylcholine, The Essential Stratum Corneum,
chapter 55, ed. by R. Marks, J.-L. Lvque, R. Voegeli, Martin Danitz Ltd., London, 2002.
Phosphatidylcholine (PC) is the most abundant component of biological membranes. It possesses an
intrinsic hydration force, and its metabolites are essential osmoprotectants. PC that is composed of
saturated fatty acids (hydrogenated PC), also named gel-state PC or HPC, possesses physical
properties that are comparable with those of the components of the skin permeability barrier.
D. Black, A. del Pozo, Y. Gall Evaluation of surfactant effects on stratum corneum using
squamometry, transepidermal water loss measurements and the sorption-desorption test, The
Essential Stratum Corneum, chapter 41, ed. by R. Marks, J.-L. Lvque, R. Voegeli, Martin Danitz
Ltd., London, 2002.
Overexposure to certain cleansers will result in skin damage, manifested by impaired barrier function,
leading to irritant reactions with prolonged use. Evaluation of barrier function deterioration is thus a
useful indicator of early stratum corneum (SC) damage, and may help to predict potential skin
irritancy for these products.
R. Lambrecht, P. Clarys, K. Alewaeters, A. O. Barel Influence of in vivo iontophoresis on the skin
barrier and percutaneous penetration, The Essential Stratum Corneum, chapter 21, ed. by R.
Marks, J.-L. Lvque, R. Voegeli, Martin Danitz Ltd., London, 2002.
Iontophoresis is a technique used to enhance the transdermal delivery of a drug by means of an electric
current. The iontophoretic transport is influenced by several factors, such as concentration, size, ionic
strength and the Ip of the drug and pH of the solvent, and also by the applied intensity and shape of the
current and the application time.
E. H. Choi, W.-S. Park, E.-D. Son The effect of change in epidermal calcium gradient on stratum
corneum lipid and epidermal differentiation, The Essential Stratum Corneum, chapter 10, ed. by R.
Marks, J.-L. Lvque, R. Voegeli, Martin Danitz Ltd., London, 2002.
Lamellar bodies (LBs) are the source of lipid composition of the stratum corneum (SC). SC
intercellular lipid bilayers formed from secreted LBs are the most important structure of the
permeability barrier. The cornified cell envelope (CE), formed during the terminal differentiation of
keratinocytes, is a specialized structure covalently bound with SC intercellular lipids.
L.M. Rodrigues, P.C. Pinto, P. Lamarao, After-sun claims substantiation: experimental criteria to
assess the in vivo effects of sun care products under controlled-using conditions, Cosmetics &
Toiletries, Vol. 117, No. 10, October 2002
H\litlist\studies 12/06
96
The authors describe a practical method of substantiating claims of after-sun products. Ten healthy
women 35-65 years old were irradiated on both legs (antero-lateral) in a laboratory for six sequential
days using an indoor solarium-type UV source. Efficacy assessment endpoints were defined from the
products typical claims.
Pieter Vermaas, Schietsimulatie zonder docent, apb Algemeen Politieblad, Nr. 19, 5. Oktober 2002
Zonder aanwezigheid van een docent je schietvaardigheid oefenen op het bureau. Het kann in nog
geen enkele Europese politieorganisatie, maar wel in regio Brabant-Noord. Voor zover wij weten
werkt nog niemand anders met zon docentonafhankelijke schietsimulatie, denken Brabantse
docenten.
H. Zahouani , J. Asserin, Ph. Humbert, Mechanical Properties of the Skin During Friction
Assessment, CRC Press 2002, pp. 49-58.
Previous studies on the tribology of human skin have attempted to demonstrate a correlation between
certain certain tactile sensations and the friction between the skin surface and variety of probes. In
addition, friction measurements have been used to provide in vivo information about the effects of
age, hydration, dermatitis, and cosmetic products on both the interfacial and bulk properties of skin.
C.K.S. Chew, P.G. Hykin, C. Jansweijer, S. Dikstein, J.M. Tiffany, A.J. Bron, The casual level of
meibomian lipids in humans, Current Eye Research, Vol. 12, No. 3, 1993
Using a modified skin surface lipid measuring instrument, the Meibometer, the amounts of meibomian
lipid on the lid margins (the casual levels) of 421 subjects aged 1 to 94 years were measured. The
lowest levels were found in children younger then 14 years (means S.E.: males = 1.48 0.17,
females 1.53 0.17 g lipid/mm
2
lid margin surface) and rose with age, the highest levels being found
in males aged 60-69 years (means S.E.= 3.26 0.18 g lipid/mm
2
lid margin surface).
J.M. Tiffany, A,J. Bron, F. Mossa, S. Dikstein, delivery of meibomian oil using the clinical
Meibometer, Lacrimal Gland, Tear Film, and Dry Eye Syndromes 2, Plenum Press, New York, 1998
Tear film studies in recent years have emphasized the importance of the oily secretion of the
meibomian glands in reducing evaporation from the open eye and in promoting stability of the
precorneal film. The thickness of the spread oil film is readily measured, but little information exists
on the amount of oil available for the film, or on its quantity or manner of delivery from the glands.
Astrid de Castro, Efectividad de cremas antienvejecimiento con activos naturales, GCI
Latinoamerica, Vol. 1, No. 2, Mai-August 2002,
La autora describe un estudio con el uso de una crema que contiene una mezcla de filtros solares
fisicos, extractos vegetales, hidratantes, antirradicales libres, sustancias antiinflamatorias con el
objetivo de comprobar la eficacia de materias primas de origen vegetal en el tratamiento y prevencion
del fotoenvejecimiento.
J. Sook Koh, H. Kang, S.W. Choi, H.O. Kim, Cigarette smoking associated with premature facial
wrinkling: image analysis of facial skin replicas, International Journal of Dermatology 2002
Current smokers have a higher degree of facial wrinkling than nonsmokers and past smokers. Past
Smokrs who smoked heavily at a younger age show less facial wrinkling than current smokers. In the
analysis, which was adjusted for age group, the relative risk of moderate to severe wrinkling for
current smokers compared with nonsmokers was 2.72 (confidence interval, Cl: 1.32-3.21, P < 0.05).
Prof. K.-D. Neander, Dr. F. Hesse, The role of cream mousses in the treatment of dry skin in
patients with diabetes mellitus, LII, Issue 10/2001, Pages 19,20,21
Diabetics are well known for their frequent struggles with the problem of dry skin. The diverse and
unpleasant effects to which these patients are exposed range from pruritus to skin inflammations,
particularly in the interdigital spaces of the feet. As has been demonstrated in a variety of studies, lack
of moisture is at the heart of this problem.
H\litlist\studies 12/06
97
K. Yoshimura, K. Harii, T. Aoyama, T. Iga, Experience of a strong bleaching treatment for skin
hyperpigmentation in orientals, www.st.rim.or.jp/~ktyoshi/list/ra-prs.html
The protocol was composed of two steps: a bleaching step (2-6 weeks) and a healing step (2-6 weeks).
0.1-0.4% all-trans retinoic acid aqueous gel was originally prepared and applied concomitantly with
hydroquinone, lactic acid ointment for bleaching. After obtaining sufficient improvement of the
hyperpigmentation, corticosteroid was topically applied with hydroquinone and ascorbic acid in the
healing step. Improvement was evaluated with a narrow-band reflectance spectrophotometer.
Astron Clinica, Validation experiments, www.fellows.rcsed.ac.uk/personal/marcmoncrieff/ch4.pdf,
This study represents the first clinical trial with the SIAscope, a system that produces information
about the haemoglobin, total melanin, dermal melanin and collagen content of the epidermis and
papillary dermis within the region of interest scanned. Studies have been performed that measured the
theoretical accuracy of the system in determining these parameters (Cotton, 1998; Hojjatoleslami et
al., 2000). It was decided that experiments should be undertaken that could determine whether the
SIAscope was indeed measuring these parameters. The four sets of experiments determining each of
the SIAscope parameters are described below in the style of a short paper.
Pierre Agache, H. I. Maibach, Physiologie De La Peau Et Explorations Fonctionelles Cutanes,
Editions Mdicales Internationales, Cachan cedex, August 2002.
La biopsie de surface a vu le jour lorsque des colles au cyanoacrylate sont devenues disponsibles [1,
2]. Lutilisation dune lamelle en polythylne comme support du prlvement fut une nouvelle tape
dcisive au dveloppement de cette technique [3].
Miklos Ghyczy, VladimirVacata, Phosphatidylcholine and Skin Hydration, Skin Moistarization,
Cosmetic Science and Technical Series Vol. 25, ed. by J. Leyden, Marcel Dekker Inc., New York,
2002.
Phosphatidylcholine (PC) is the most abundant phospholipid in animal cells. It possesses an intrinsic
hydration force, and its metabolites are essential osmoprotectants. Phosphatidylcholine composed of
saturated fatty acids (hydrogenated PC; HPC) possesses physical properties which are comparable
with those of the components of the skin permeability barrier.
Hristo Dobrev, In vivo study of skin mechanical properties in Raynauds phenomenon, 14
th
International Congress for Bioengineering and the skin, May 21-24, 2003
Mechanical properties of the skin in patients with suspected secondary Raynauds phenomenon
significantly differ from these in patients with primary Raynauds phenomenon and resemble those in
patients with edematous phase of scleroderma. Our findings suggest that the non-invasive
measurements of skin elasticity could be helpful in identifying patients with Raynauds phenomenon
at risk of developing systemic sclerosis. *
J. Fluhr, Jeffrey L. Sugarman, Thomas L. Diepgen, M. L. Williams, The Objective Severity
Assessment of Atopic Dermatitis (OSAAD) Score, 61
st
Meeting of the American Academy of
Dermatology, March 21-26, 2003
Measurements of epidermal permeability barrier function and SC hydration correlated closely with
clinical estimates of disease severity. PH was found not to be a sensitive measure of AD severity. The
OSAAD score correlated well with current gold standard of AD severity, the SCORAD (p<0,001;
Spearman correlation coefficient of r=0,63439)
Nils Krger, Lucy Fiegert, Dagmar Becker, Tilman Reuther, Martina Kerscher, Spurenelemente in
Form eines Kupfertripeptidkomplexes, Kosmetische Medizin, 1/2003, 24. Jahrgang
In den letzten Jahren wurde eine Reihe von neuen dermatokosmetischen Wirkstoffen entwickelt, um
Hautalterungssymptome zu bessern. Neben konsequentem Lichtschutz, Retinol und Antioxidantien
werden jetzt auch in deuschland Spurenelemente bei Hautalterung eingesetzt. In der hier vorgestellten
offenen, kontrollierten Untersuchung an 40 Probanden zeigte sich bei topischer Applikation von
Kupfertripeptid eine Zunahme der Hautdichte in der 20MHz-Sonographie, eine verbesserte
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Hydratation der obersten Hautschichten gemessen mittels Corneometrie sowie eine im vergleich zu
retinol und Placebo signifikant strkere Glttung der Haut, erfasst mit dem Visio-Scan.
Astrid Castro, Quantitative measurement of skin color changes with visual assessment
correlation,
The findings confirmed the suitability of developed clinical trial protocol for skin whitening efficacy
evaluation using the Mexameter MX 16 as a tool for the quantitative measurement of skin color
changes. The procedure of standardization used in the study is simple and workable in a clinical
setting. Factors of importance include the control of test site as well as environmental controls.
Astrid Castro de Castro, Evaluacion in vivo de despigmentantes de origen natural y/o
biotecnologicos
Teniendo presente la alta incidencia de hiperpigmentaciones, y la necesidad de obtener un producto
seguro, efectivo y sin reacciones adversas, nos propusimos evaluar in vivo la accion despigmentante
de una sustancia obtenia por Biotecnologia mezclada con extractos naturales, que denominamos N-
M contra otras ya conocidas de origen quimico y vegetal, que correspondian al Extracto de
Glycirrhiza Glabra, Acido Kojico, Hidroquinona y Extracto de Fagus Sylvatica.
A.. Vargas , A. Castro, Formulacion de jabon liquido con productos naturals:medida de su
efectividad
Los habones estan formados por la saponificacion de acidos grasos de alto peso molecular, con alkalis.
Teniendo presente la incidencia de dermatitis de contacto por Jabones y la solicitud del consumidor y
especialista tratante, de un producto seguro, no irritante, y que no remueva la capa lipidica, se formulo
un Jabon con productos naturales que aporta el efecto buscado. Siguiendo los principos de
formulacion se utilizaron mezclas de detergents anionicos y anfotericos con una sustancia viscosante.
Astrid Castro de Castro, Sericina en preparaciones capilares para cabellos danados: medida de su
efectividad
El cabello humano esta sometido a una agresion ambiental que contribuye a causar degradaciones
quimicas y estructurales. Se disenaron dos preparaciones con Hidrolizado de Sericina: champu
acondicionador y ampolla revitalizante. Se estudiaron 20 pacientes con cabellos danados,
observandose el dano mediante un Visiscan VC 98. cada paciente uso: champu y ampolla 3
veces/semana/30 dias.
M. Kucharekova, M. Hornix, T. Ashigaka, S. Tkint, G.J. de Jongh, J. Schalkwijk, P.C.M. van de
Kerkhof, P.G.M. van der Valk, The effect of the PDE-4 inhibitor (cipamfylline) in two human
models of irritant contact dermatitis, Archives of Dermatological research, Vol. 295, April 2003
Repeated application revealed that betamethasone-17-valerate caused a statistically significant
reduction in erythema and TEWL compared to cipamfylline and placebo. We also observed a
significant suppression of proliferating cells and cytokeratin 16 expression at sites treated with
betamethanose compared to the other sites.
Thomas Frster , Henkel KgaA, Cosmetic Lipids and the Skin Barrier, 2001 by Marcel Dekker
There is no doubt that the application os cosmetic lipids has many positive effects on the structure and
function of the skin. These effects are pleiotropic, caused either by direct interaction with the
epidermis, particularly the stratum corneum, or indirectly, by influencing the physiologic, homeostatic
condition of the skin.
K. De Paepe, J-P Hachem, J-M Lagarde, E. Houben, Y. Galle, D. Roseeuw, V. Rogiers, Skin
microrelief topography measuerements of ageing skin using a light transmission method, Skin
Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003
Anti-wrinkle creams, anti-ageing products and all kinds of skin care products, developed to affect skin
relief and reduce lines and wrinkles, are very popular and good sellers. Also for these products, it is
necessary to comply with the actual cosmetic EU legislation and to substantiate the claims made.
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D. Brokken, L.J.M. Schlangen, P.M. van Kemenade , A mechanical model for the skin suction
experiment, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003
The skin suction experiment is one of the most widely used methods in dermatology and cosmetology
to evaluate the mechanical properties of the skin. Usually, the skin is sucked into an aperture
repeatedly by applying an intermittent partial vacuum (P). Simultaneously, the elevation of the skin
into the aperture (U) is measured.
I. Sadiq, T. Stoudemayer, A. Kligman, Blue light visualizes the degree of solar elastosis in
photodamaged human facial skin, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003
We have utilized the short wavelength visible light (blue light) to visualize the fluorophores and
chromophores of photo-aged facial skin. Topographic details of the surface can also be seen with great
clarity. Two band-pass interference filters with a central wavelength of 417 nm, were placed in front
of two 400 watt xenon flash lamps.
H. Dobrev, In vivo studyof skin mechanical properties in Raynauds phenomenon, Skin Research
and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003
Raynauds phenomenon is usually the first symptom in patients with systemic sclerosis and may
precede skin changes by several months or years. Non-invasive measurements of skin elasticity are
very sensitive and appropriate for objective and quantitative evaluation of sclerodermatous skin. The
aim of this study was to investigate and compare the mechanical properties of the skin in patients with
primary, secondary and suspected secondary Raynauds phenomenon.
H-C Kim, S-J Hong, M-H Lee, J.S. Moon, H.S. Oh, M-G. Kim, C.H. Oh, S.J. Park, Objective
evaluation of severity in SLS-induced irritant dermatitis: comparing the studies between new
skin color analysis technique and other bioengineering tools, Skin Research and Technology, Vol.
9, No. 2, May 2003
In evaluation for severity of SLS-induced irritant dermatitis, visual scoring system is wide being used
as a subjective method. However, it is well known that variations exist even in the interpretations by
experienced dermatologist. So it is required to develop the new objective and quantitative method for
the assessment for severity of SLS induced irritant dermatitis.
S. Savic, N. Cekic, S. Tamburic, J. Milic, G. Vuleta, The effect of urea from dermo-cosmetic
emulsions on skin hydration and its barrier function: a vehicle-controlled study, Skin Research
and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003
A number of studies have shown that, depending on the concentration, treatment with urea could
improve skin barrier function, despite of its penetration enhancing properties. This controversial skin
effect has not been explored systematically in terms of the effectof vehicle on the performance of urea.
H.K. Lee, S.Y. Bae, S.J. Moon, I.S. Chang, Comparisons of skin characteristics between men and
women using non-invasive methods in young healthy Asians, Skin Research and Technology, Vol.
9, No. 2, May 2003
Skin has different properties depending on intrinsic effects such as inherent factors, race, gender and
so on. Besides, it has been known that skin may change because of the environmental stress such as
UV, climate and life style. We would like to know the differences of skin characteristics between male
and female. The results of this study might be applicate the depart of dermatology and cosmetology.
L. Monteiro Rodriguez, J. Martins Magro, Bioengineered characterisation of the thermal burn
injury healing process, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003
Full thickness burn injuries may be followed-up through non-invasive bioengineered methodologies.
This elegant approach to this complex multifactorial process allows us to obtain quantitative data
involving several variables representing structure and function, providing more objective support to
practical management and therapeutical intervention.
I.F. Almeida, D. Endo, M.F. Bahia, Moisturizing properties of two oleogels following single
application, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003
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Oleogels are interesting new systems obtained with a hydrophobic liquid. On the last years there were
discovered and developed many organogelators that in same cases were able to gelify biocompatible
liquids. Their applications were investigated in several areas such as organic chemistry, environmental
chemistry and also in pharmaceutical and cosmetics fields.
R. Pena Ferreira, P. Costa, F. Bahia, Visioscan VC 98 application: a comparison study between
coarse and smooth skin surface, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003
The skin is a result of many biochemical and physical factors and these are subject to changes both
internally and externally. What is aging? Must of us define aging in terms of the appearance of people
in our life experience. Others studying aging mechanisms define aging as a decrease in functional
capacity. In the last few years, a great deal of data has been generated on aging mechanisms trying to
determine if the aging process is a single event, a one-gene process, or a multifaceted process
produced by many events and perhaps many genes.
J. Fluhr, J.S. kao, P.M. Elias, K.R. Feingold, Short-term glucocorticoid treatment compromises
both permeability barrier homeostasis and stratum corneum integrity: inhibition of epidermal
lipid synthesis accounts for functional abnormalities, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2,
May 2003
Prolonged exposure of human stratum corneum to excess endogenous or exogenous glucocorticoids
(GC) can result in well-recognized cutaneous abnormalities. Here, we determined wheter short-term
GC treatment would alter two key functions of the skin, permeability barrier homeostasis and stratum
corneum (SC) integrity and cohesion, and the basis for these changes.
S. Bielfeld, M. Brandt, A. Gerstenkorn, K. Wilhelm, Capacitance measurement of skin moisture:
sophisticated calibration of instruments, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003
Absolute valuesof different instruments designed to measure the skin capacitance are not comparable,
even though they all work with the same measurement principle. Even in the same instrument type
differences in measurement results are common. For this reason, studies are generally performed with
only one instrument and a comparison of data obtained in different studies with different instruments
is not regarded as valid.
P.C. Pinto, R. Minhos, L.M. Pereira, L. Monteiro, Validation of a compartmental model to
quantitatively describe transepidermal water loss, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2,
May 2003
New computational methods are being applied to analyze data from TEWL experiments mostly using
non-linear algorithms. A new strategy involving the application of a compartmental model to TEWL
data obtained from a Plastic Occlusion Stress Test (POST) has been used with encouraging results.
This strategy is now being validated in order to establish its major determinants affecting the model`s
parameters.
P.C. Pinto, L.M. Pereira, L. MonteiroRodriguez, Skin water dynamics: disposition-decomposition
analysis (DDA) od transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and epidermal capacitance, Skin Research
and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003
Knowledge about human skin water dynamics seems to represent a growing importance to understand
the organs normal physiology. Mathematical modelling of (cutaneous water) related variables
obtained through skin bioengineering, provided new perspectives to approach this problem.
M. Bock, H.J. Schwanitz, Site variations in susceptibility to SLS at the volar forearm evaluated by
TEWL measurement, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003
According to the guidelines on sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) exposure test of the ESCD
standardisation group the flexor side of forearm skin with cubital fossa and wrist excluded is the
preferred study site. This study analyses the exact anatomic region within the suggested test area in
respect to the outcome of SLS exposure test.
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M. Setaro, A. Sparavigna, It is possible to define a biological ageof the skin?, Skin Research and
Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003
The evaluation of global skin performance as compared to anagraphical age of the subject is until
today dependent on clinical evaluation. By doing so, pre-clinic alterations of skin aging, are often
missed, loosing the possibility to set up adequate strategies of prevention and treatment. Non-invasiev
evaluations based on the measurements of skin parameters allow to monitor functional alterations of
the skin with age in objective, sensitive specific and reproducible way.
H.S. Oh, M.H. Lee, S.Y. Park, H-C Kim, J-S Moon, M-G Kim, C-H Oh, New skin colour analysis
technique, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003
It is very important aspect in skin color analysis that the objective evaluation for color distribution in
same image. But conventional spectrophotometer are able to analysis as average value of rgion of
interest (ROI) not to color distribution analysis. We tried to develop the new skin color analysis
technique so as to objective measured skin color distribution as a pixel or ROI using liquid crystal
tunable filter (LCTF) and CCD camera.
H. Tronnier, M. Wiebusch, U. Heinrich, Frictiometry on human skin, Skin Research and
Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, May 2003
The state and function of human skin can be quantified by numerous non-invasive test methods.
There are, however, still no valid methods to measure the tactile properties of the skin surface and thus
to quantify the state of the skin on the one hand, and to determine the negative and positive effects of
tactile influences on the other hand. The measuring device (Frictiometer) consists of a sensor, a
steering unit and a monitor. The torque, the circular friction on the skin surface, is measured via the
motor load current and is shown as a voltage drop.
A. Castro, Evaluation of the moisturizing effectivity of different materials (ES), Colamiq Congress
in Cartagena, 2003
La resequedad de la piel tiene diversos origenes: disminucion de lipidos, perdida de agua
transepidermal, factores hormonales, geneticos, medicamentosos, ambientales. Durante muchos anos
se han buscado medicamento o procedimientos que puedan revertir o detener los danos de la piel que
se presntan a traves del curso de la vida, inducidos por factores externos o internos. La condicion de
piel seca que afecta a un amplio universo de la poblacion, viendose mas marcada en la poblacion
adulta, aunque tambien se presenta en la poblacion joven, juega un papel determinante en el proceso
de envejecimiento de la piel.
A. Castro de Catsro, S.H. T. Casares, Luis Augusto Castro Sader, Efectividad de activos naturales
para evitar la formacion de la piel de naranja, Colamiq Congress in Cartagena, 2003
La aparacion de la aestetica piel de naranja conjuntamente con la disminucion de la forma, sedosidad,
y brillo de la piel de un cuerpo joven, afecta la imagen femenina de tal forma que hoy en dia, se ha
transformado en un verdadero problema social y psicologico, padecerla es peor que tener algun mal
que genere dolor.
L. Orejarena, A. Castro, Evaluacion de la efectividad hidratante de diferentes sustancias y su
estabilidad fisica, Actualizaciones Terapeuticas, dermatologicas y Esteticas, Nov.-Dec. 2002, Vol. 25
La resequedad de la piel tiene diversos origenes: disminucion de lipidos, perdida de agua
transepidermal, factores hormonales, geneticos, medicamentosos, ambientales. Conociendo que esta
condicion es una de las mas tratadas por especialistas, y que infinidad de productos dermocosmeticos
especifican ser hidratantes, sin evaluacion de efectividad ni estabilidad, nos propusimos evaluar la
actividad de diferentes hidratantes, en varias bases.
L.C. de Ramayo, A. Castro, Luis Augusto Castro Sader, Medida de la efectividad de reguladores de
grasa de origen natural, Colamiq Congress in Cartagena, 2003
En la actualidad existe un numero considerable de consumidores que presentan una piel con una
apariencia aceitosa, grasosa, brillante, untuosa al tacto que desde todo punto de vista resulta
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desagradable. Hoy en dia, se habla mas de un problema de calidad de sebo en la superficie de la piel
que de aumento de la oleosidad y la piel grasosa se ha convertido en un problema serio de la piel.
U. Heinrich, U. Koop, K. Osterrieder, S. Bielfeld, C. Chkarnat, J. Degwert, D. Hntschel, S. Jaspers,
H-P. Nissen, M. Rohr, G. Schneider, H. Tronnier, Multicentre comparison of skin hydration in
terms of physical-, physiological- and product-dependent parameters by the capacitive method,
International Journal of Cosmetics Science, 2003, 25, 45-53 *
A multicentre study for measuring skin hydration with 349 volunteers was carried out in six different
laboratories. The purpose of the study was to investigate physical-, physiological- and product-
dependent parameters of three test emulsions (base, base+moisturizer and base+moisturizer+lipids) in
a double-blind study. A comparison between analogous and digital sensor technology of the
Corneometer CM 825 was examined.
M. Jouandeaud, M. Dana, B. Closs, A new generation of tensor actives, Household and Personal
Products Industry, June 2003
After age 50, or thereabouts, women experience a slackening of the skin and a loss of elasticity and
tone. Cutaneous aging results primarily in the appearance of more or less marked wrinkles, which are
accentuated on the photo-exposed body areas such as the face, the neck or hands. In order to
erasethe effects of age, consumers are eager to test an entire range of anti-wrinkle substances, or
take more drastic measures such as undergoing plastic surgery.
L.P.L. van de Vijver, E. Boelsma, R.A. Bausch-Goldbohm, L. Roza, Subjective skin condition and its
association with objective skin measurements, Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 118, No. 7, July 2003
From a group of 302 volunteers, the authors obtained both selfreported subjective evaluations of skin
condition and objective measurements of skin conditions, and then looked for correlations between the
subjective and objective kin measures.
L.M. Rodrigues, P. C. Pinto,L.M. Pereira, Quantitative description of human skin water dynamics
by a disposition-decomposition analysis (DDA) of trans-epidermal water loss and epidermal
capacitance, Skin Research and Technology, Vol.9, No. 1, Feb. 2003
In vivo water assessment would greatly benefit from a dynamical approach since the evaluation of
common related variables such as trans-epidermal water loss or capacitance measurements is always
limited to instantaneous data. Mathematical modelling is still an attractive alternative already
attempted with bi-exponential empirical models.
Y. Yoshizawa, K. Kitamura, S. Kawana, H. Maibach, Water, salts and skin barrier of normal skin,
Skin Research and Technology, Vol.9, No. 1, Feb. 2003
We recently reported that open application of seawater for 20 min ameliorated experimental irritant
contact dermatitis induced by sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) cumulative irritation. The efficacy was
overall contributed by 500 mM of sodium chloride (NaCl) and 10mM of potassium chloride (KCl),
which are consistent with the each concentration in seawater.
L.J.M. Schlangen, D. Brokken, P.M. van Kemenade, Correlation between small aperture skin
suction parameters: statistical analysis and mechanical model, Skin Research and Technology,
Vol.9, No. 2, May. 2003
Skin suction experiments are widely used in order to evaluate the effects of skin treatments, both for
cosmetic and for dermatological purposes. Classically, the elevation of the skin is measured at
different discrete time instances after the pressure has been changed. Relations between the classical
parameters-Uv, Ur, Ue and Uf-have been investigated and used in order to develop a new model for
interpreting the mechanical properties of the skin.
S. Amari, A. Amari, C. Schubert, Focus on the hydrating profile of two naturally derived
emulsifiers, Personal Care , July 2003,
Olive oil is the one of the lipids showing the highest compatibility with our skin. The sebum secreted
by the sebaceous glands is produced for an important reason: to protect the skin against the
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environment and to reduce the Trans-Epidermal-Water Loss (TEWL). When one examines and
compares the percentage ranges of fatty acids, oleic acid, polyunsaturated fatty acid, waxy esters and
squalene contained both in the skin and in wirgin olive oil, it is quickly evident that there is a
remarkable similarity.
L.R. Gaspar, P.M.B.G.Maia Campos, Evaluation of the protective effect of alpha-tocopheryl
acetate in a sunscreen, preventing erythema formation, transepidermal water loss and sunburn
cell formation, IFSCC , Vol. 6, No. 3/2003
Nowadays, vitamin E acetate is used as an antioxidant and moisturizer in sunscreens. Although free
vitamin E presents UV protection effects, little data has been forthcoming documenting the beneficial
effects of vitamin E acetate on cutabeous photodamage, when combined with sunscreens. The aim of
this study was to evaluate the protective effect of a sunscreen formulation with or without vitamin E
acetate on erythema in hairless mice, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and sunburn cell formation.
Stoffe aus dem Prfstand, Spiegel 37/2003
Wer den ganzen Tag in strapazierfhiger Berufskleidung steckt, hat darunter oft wunde Stellen:
Straenarbeiter, Feuerwehrleute, Grokchenkche. Durch die stndige Bewegung bei der Arbeit
entzndet sich empfindliche Haut besonders dort, wo sie sich an Nahtstellen oder rauem Gewebe
reibt., sagt Hagen Tronnier, dermatologe an der Universitt Witten/Herdecke.
Besty, Hughes-Formella, Teststrategien fr Mittel gegen trockene Haut, Skin Care Forum, Ausgabe
24, Sep. 2003
Trockene Haut stellt ein hufiges Problem in der Dermatologie dar und reprsentiert eine Dysfunktion
der Epidermis, insbesondere des Stratum Corneum als morphologischem quivalent der Hautbarriere.
Verschiedene Hauterkrankungen wie z.B. Atopische Dermatitis oder Ichthyose basieren auf einer
genetischen Disposition fr trockene Haut.
H. Lambers, H. Pronk, S. Piessens and E. Voss, Natural human skin surface pH is on average
below 5, Gordon Conference, Aug. 2003
The acidic surface pH and the pH gradient over the stratum corneum (SC) are important for optimal
condition of the skin, supporting the following functions: regulation of skin microflora, thereby
preventing pathogenesis, optimal structure and function of the lipid barrier, optimal stratum corneum
homeostasis.
Sophia Antipolis,Ederline, an anti aging active ingredient In vivo studies on wrinkles, Society of
Cosmetic Chemists, Dec. 2000
Skin aspect and texture is largely influenced by steroid hormones which are stored in the subcutaneous
tissue and act on skin cells as they stimulate the regeneration of the extra cellular matrix. Studies have
shown that the decrease of these hormones plays an important role in skin endogenous aging.
S. Antipolis, Date Palm Kernel extract exhibits anti-aging properties and significantly improves
skin wrinkles, 20
th
World Congress of Dermatology, Paris, July 2002
It is well established that body hormones play a central role in skin appearance and are implicated in
skin aging. Studies have shown that the decrease of these hormones plays an important role in skin
endogenous aging, the decrease of skin thickness, and the disturbance of normal collagen turnover
which, in turn, results in a decrease in collagen I and III synthesis.
Sophia Antipolis, In vivo Studies of Phytosterol Sulfate Effect on human skin hydration and
barrier function, Society for Investigative dermatology, May 2001
Phytosterol Sulfate (PS) is a new sterol and homologue to cholesterol sulfate an essential component
in the human epidermis. Sterols are critical for epidermal barrier function; they mediate lipid synthesis
and stratum corneum formation, desquamation, and membrane hydration. They also serve as an
important precursor for Vitamin D.
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G. Pierard, La biopsie de urface en dermatology clinique et exprimentale, Rev. Eur. Dermatol.
MST 1992 4 455
La biopsie de surface consiste prelever la partie superficielle de la couche corne. Il en existe deux
variantes. Lune est realisee avec laide dune colle de type cyanoacrylate et une lamelle de plastique
transparent. Lautre repose sur lutilisation de petits disques prencolls disponibles commercialement.
C. Pierard, G. Pierard, Cyanoacrylate Skin Surface Stripping for Vizualizing Stratum Corneum
Structures and Dynamics,
Cyanoacrylate skin stripping (CSSS) came into existence when High-bond glues became available.
The introduction of the polyethylene slide used to take the sample was a decisive new stage in the
development of this technique. The necessary materials are presented in Table7.1.
G. Pierard, EEMCO guidance for the assessment of dry skin(xerosis) and ichthyosis: evaluation
by stratum corneum strippings, Skin Research and Technology 1996; 2; 3-11
Evaluation of scaliness in xerotic and ichthyotic conditions is conveniently addressed by stratum
corneum strippings.
The assessment of scaling conditions by stratum corneum stripping methods may be validly used in
the laboratory. Interpretations, however, must be cautious. Direct extrapolations with respect to the
water content in the stratum corneum should be avoided.
C. Pierard, G. Pierard, Skin surface stripping in diagnosing and monitoring inflammatory
Xerotic, and Neoplastic Diseases, Pediatric Dermatology Vol. 2 No. 3 180-184
Skin surface stripping is a useful and simple diagnostic tool for the diagnosis of a number of diseases
that affect the skin during childhood and adolescence. The procedure has proved to be especially
valuable in inflammatory, xerotic, and neoplastic conditions as it provides information regarding
pathologic changes as well as diagnosis.
W. Gehring, R. Bopp, F. Rippke, M. Gloor, Effect of topically applied evening primrose oil on
epidermal barrier function in atopic dermatitis as a function of vehicle, Arzneimittel-
Forschung/Drug Research 49(II), 7, 635-642 (1999)
The aim of this study was to establish the effect on barrier function in atopic dermatitis of topical
evening primrose oil in an amphiphilic and a stable water-in-oil emulsion. The studies were vehicle-
controlled in two populations of 20 atopic subjects. Barrier function was assessed in terms of
transepidermal water loss and stratum corneum hydration after a 4-week treatment period and a 1-
week treatment-free period.
B.A. Green, B.L. Edison, R. Hwu, R.H. Wildnauer, Cosmetic uses of benzilic acid a lipophilic
Alpha-Hydroxyacid (AHA), 12
th
European Academy of dermatology and Venereology, Barcelona
2003 October 15.-18.
The alpha-hydroxyacids (AHAs) are used extensively to enhance skin smoothness and clarity, while
promoting overall skin health and normalcy. They are also used adjunctively with topical medications
for the treatment of skin conditions including acne and hyperpigmentation. Commonly used AHAs,
including glycolic acid and lactic acid , are highly hydrophilic and less lipophilic.
F. Rippke, V. Schreiner, H-J. Schwanitz, The acidic milieu of the horny layer, Am J Clin Dermatol
2002; 3 (4): 261-272
The acidic pH of the horny layer, measurable on the skin surface, has long been regarded as a result of
exocrine secretion of the skin glands. The acid mantle was thought to regulate the bacterial skin flora
and to be sensitive primarily to skin cleansing procedures. In recent years, an increasing number of
investigations have been published on the changes in, and constituents and functions of, the pH of the
deeper layers of the stratum corneum, as well as on the influence of physiological and pathological
factors.
S. Stenzaly-Achtert, A. Schlermann, J. Schreiber, K.H. Diec, F. Rippke, S. Bielfeld, Axillary pH and
influence of deodorants, Skin research and Technology 2000;6:87-91
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A significan pH reduction was shown during the treatment period when compared to the run-in phase.
The Deodorant Roll-on induced a reduction of the mean pH values from 6.1 to 5.3, the Deodorant
Balsam Spray from 6.5 to 5.7 and the Deodorant Cream from 6.2 to 5.3. During the wash-out period
all pH values returned to baseline.
A.G. Shepky, A. Brger, G. Rudolph, M. Max, U. koop, J. Ennen, M. Kuhn, A. Schlermann, F.
Rippke, Mild keratolysis by topical application of proteolytic enzyme subtilisin,
The proteolytic enzyme subtilisin offers a novel, especially mild way of keratolysis, obtained already
in low concentrations and within the normal pH-range of the skin. The highly purified protease
subtilisin from Bacillus subtilis degrades the bonds between the corneocytes and promotes the release
of peptides and amino acids as natural moisturizing factors.
JW Fluhr, L. Bankova, PM Elias, KR Feingold, Assessment of permeability barrier function
measuring transepidermal water loss: comparing 3 closed-loop systems and 4 open-loop systems
in vivo and in vitro, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, Abstract Nr. 10.
The permeability barrier function is traditionally measured with instruments assessing the
transepidermal water loss (TEWL) relaying on (i) closed loop systems (ii) open loop systems. In the
present study three closed loop system-based instruments were compared under different experimental
in vivo conditions with 4 open-loop based instruments: MEECO, H4300, VapoMeter, TM 210, TM
300, DermaLab and EP 1.
M. Takahashi, M. Egawa, T. Hirao, The frictional feel analyzer, Skin Research and Technology,
Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, Abstract Nr. 18.
Sensory evaluation is important in the testing of cosmetic products. Several devices for the
measurement of sensory properties have been developed in recent years. The objective here is to
measure skin surface friction using these devices and to examine the correlation with other
physiological parameters in order to evaluate the feasibility of using physical measurement to predict
tactile sensation.
A. Barel, R. Lambrecht, P. Clarys, Study of the mechanical properties of human skin using the
shear wave propagation method, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, Abstract
Nr. 21.
In vivo determination of the elastic properties and anisotropy of human skin can be determined using
the shear wave propagation method. The Reviscometer RVM-600 R (Courage-Khazaka, Cologne,
Germany) measures the resonance running time (RRT) between two sensors which are placed on the
skin surface.
S.M. Fuchs, C. Heinemann, J. W. Fluhr, S. Schliemann-Willers, U. Grfe, P. Elsner, Anti-
inflammatory efficacy of Poria cocos in SLS induced irritant contact dermatitis and UVB-
induced erythema, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, Abstract Nr. 39.
A great number of compounds is available for the treatment of inflammatory skin diseases, the most
effective external anti-inflammatory compounds being glucocorticoids. Their side effects have
motivated a continuing search for other therapeutical compounds, and fungal metabolites like Poria
cocos have figured in the literature.
D. Haentschel, M. Gorath, J. Degwert, Non- and semi-invasive quantitative and qualitative
assessment of epidermal regeneration by the use of an in vivo wound healing model, Skin
Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, Abstract Nr. P66.
Normal wound healing is a carefully controlled balance between new tissue formation and destruction
processes necessary to remove damaged tissue. The non-invasive measurement of transepidermal
water loss (TEWL; TEWL probe for the DermaLab Cortex Technologies, Hadsund, Denmark) and
skin roughness by the use of the PRIMOS (Phaseshift Rapid in vivo Measurement of Skin) system
(GF Messtechnik, Teltow, Germany) allows a continuous follow-up of cutaneous processes
accompanied with changeable conditions of the impairment of the epidermal barrier function or the
skin topographym, respectively.
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K. De Paepe, J-P Hachem, E. Houben, J-M Lagarde, Y. Galle, D. Roseeuw, V. Rogiers, Skin
microrelief topography measurements of ageing skin using a light transmission method, Skin
Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, Abstract Nr. P69.
Anti-wrinkle creams, anti-ageing products and all kinds of skin care products, developed to affect skin
relief and reduce lines and wrinkles, are very popular and good sellers. Also for these products, it is
necessary to comply with the actual cosmetic EU legislation and to substantiate the claims made.
D. Brokken, LJM Schlangen, PM van Kemenade, A mechanical model for the skin suction
experiment, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, Abstract Nr. P72.
The skin suction experiment is one of the most widely used methods in dermatology and cosmetology
to evaluate the mechanical properties of the skin. Usually, the skin is sucked into an aperture
repeatedly by applying an intermittent partial vacuum (P).
I. Sadiq, T. Stoudemayer, A. Kligman, Blue light visualizes the degree of solar elastosis in
photodamaged human facial skin, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003,
Abstract Nr. P74.
We have utilized the short wavelength visible light (blue light) to visualize the fluorophores and
chromophores of photo-aged facial skin. Topographic details of the surface can also be seen with great
clarity.
H. Dobrev, In vivo study of skin mechanical properties in Raynauds phenomenon, Skin Research
and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, Abstract Nr. P76.
Raynauds phenomenon is usually the first symptom on patients with systemic sclerosis and may
precede skin changes by several months or years. Non-invasive measurements of skin elasticity are
very sensitive and appropriate for objective and quantitative evaluation of sclerodermatous skin.
H-C Kim, S-J Hong, M-H Lee, J-S Moon, Objective evaluation of severity in SLS-induced irritant
dermatitis: comparing the studies between new skin color analysis technique and other
bioengineering tools, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, Abstract Nr. P77.
Objective: In evaluation for severity of SLS-induced irritant dermatitis, visual scoring system is wide
being used as a subjective method. However, it is well known that variations exist even in the
interpretations by experienced dermatologists.
S. Savic, N. Cekic, S. Tamburic, J. Milic, G. Vuleta, The effect of urea from dermo-cosmetic
emulsions on skin hydration and its barrier function: a vehicle-controlled study, Skin Research
and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, Abstract Nr. P81.
A number of studies have shown that, depending on the concentration, treatment with urea could
improve skin barrier function, despite of its penetration enhancing properties. This controversial skin
effect has not been explored systematically in terms of the effect of vehicle on the performance of
urea.
HK Lee, SY Ahn, JH Bae, SJ Moon, IS Chang, Comparisons of skin characteristics between men
and women using non-invasive methods in young healthy Asians, Skin Research and Technology,
Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, Abstract Nr. P84.
Objective: Skin has different properties depending on intrinsic effects such as inherent factors, race,
gender, and so on. Besides, it has been known that skin may change because of the environmental
stress such as UV, climate and life style.
R. Pena Ferreira, P. Costa, F. Bahia, Visioscan VC 98 application: a comparison study between
coarse and smooth skin surface, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, Abstract
Nr. P91.
The skin is a result of many biochemical and physical factors and these are subject to changes both
internally and externally. What is aging? Most of us define aging in terms of the appearance of people
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in our life experience. Others studying aging mechanisms define aging as a decrease in functional
capacity.
L. M. Rodrigues, J. Martinsmagro, M. Mouzinho, P. Pinto, M. Almeida, Bioengineered
characterisation of the thermal burn injury healing process, Skin Research and Technology, Vol.
9, Nr. 2, May 2003, Abstract Nr. P86.
Full thickness burn injuries may be followed-up through non-invasive bioengineered methodologies.
This elegant approach to this complex multi-factorial process allows us to obtain quantitative data
involving several variables representing structure and function, providing more objective support to
practical management and therapeutical intervention.
I. F. Almeida, D. Endo, M. F. Bahia, Moisturizing properties of two oleogels following single
application, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, Abstract Nr. P92.
Oleogels are interesting new systems obtained with a hydrophobic liquid. On the last years there were
discovered and developed many organogelators that in same cases were able to gelify biocompatible
liquids. Their applications were investigated in several areas such as organic chemistry, environmental
chemistry and also in pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields.
J. W. Fluhr, J. S. Kao, P. M. Elias, K. R. Feingold, Short-term glucocorticoid treatment
compromises both permeability barrier homeostasis and stratum corneum integrity: inhibition
of epidermal lipid synthesis accounts for functional abnormalities, Skin Research and Technology,
Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, Abstract Nr. P95.
Prolonged exposure of human stratum corneum to excess endogenous or exogenous glucocorticoids
(GC) can result in well-recognized cutaneous abnormalities. Here, we determined whether short-term
GC treatment would alter two key functions of the skin, permeability barrier homeostasis and stratum
corneum (SC) integrity and cohesion, and the basis for these changes.
S. Bielefeldt, M. Brandt, A. Gerstenkorn, K. Wilhelm, Capacitance measurement of skin moisture:
sophisticated calibration of instruments, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003,
Abstract Nr. P97.
Absolute values of different instruments designed to measure the skin capacitance are not comparable,
even though they all work with the same measurement principle. Even in the same instrument type
differences in measurement results are common.
P. C. Pinto, R. Minhs, L. M. Pereira, L. Monteiro Rodrigues, Validation of a compartmental model
to quantitatively describe transepidermal water loss, Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2,
May 2003, Abstract Nr. P105.
New computational methods are being applied to analyze data from TEWL experiments mostly using
non-linear algorithms. A new strategy involving the application of a compartmental model to TEWL
data obtained from a Plastic Occlusion Stress Test (POST) has been used with encouraging results.
P. C. Pinto, L. M. Pereira, L. Monteiro Rodrigues, Skin water dynamics: disposition-decomposition
analysis (DDA) of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and epidermal capacitance, Skin Research
and Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, Abstract Nr. P106.
Knowledge about human skin water dynamics seems to represent a growing importance to understand
the organs normal physiology. Mathematical modelling of (cutaneous water) related variables
obtained through skin bioengineering, provided new perspectives to approach this problem.
H. S. Oh, M. H. Lee, S. Y. Park, H. C. Kim, New Skin colour analysis technique, Skin Research and
Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, Abstract Nr. P114.
It is very important aspect in skin color analysis that the objective evaluation of color distribution in
same image. But conventional spectrophotometer are able to analysis as average value of region of
interest (ROI) not to color distribution analysis. We tried to develop the new skin color analysis
technique so as to objective measured skin color distribution as a pixel or ROI using liquid crystal
tunable filter (LCTF) and CCD camera (so called Skin Color Distribution Analyser: SCDA).
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H. Tronnier, M. Wiebusch, U. Heinrich, Frictiometry on human skin, Skin Research and
Technology, Vol. 9, Nr. 2, May 2003, Abstract Nr. P116.
The state and function of human skin can be quantified by numerous non-invasive test methods. There
are, however, still no valid methods to measure the tactile properties of the skin surface as thus to
quantify the state of the skin on the one hand, and to determine the negative and positive effects of
tactile influences on the other hand.
S.T. Casares, A. Castro de Castro, L.A. Castro Sader, Efectividad de activos naturales para evitar
la formacion de la piel de naranja, XVI Congreso latinoamericano e iberico Quimicos Cosmeticos,
15-18. Sept. 2003
La aparicion de la aestetica piel de naranja conjuntamente con la disminucion de la forma, sedosidad,
y brillo de la piel de un cuerpo joven, afecta la imagen femenina de tal forma que hoy en dia, se ha
transformado en un verdadero problema social y psicologico, padecerla es peor que tener algun mal
que genere dolor.
A. del Pozo, In vivo screening of surfactant effects on stratum corneum, Association de
Pharmacie Galenique Industrielle, Paris 22-23 Oct. 2003
Prolonged or repeated exposure of skin to surfactants used in personal care products or cleaners often
results in damage to the stratum corneum (SC) barrier function. Prevention of stratum corneum
damage requires careful formulation of such products and suitable screening methods to detect
changes in stratum corneum function.
Suk-Jin Choi, Min-Gyu Song, Whan-Tae Sung, Dong-Youn Lee, Comparison of TEWL,
Capacitance, and pH Values in the Skin between intrinsic and extrinsic atopic dermatitis
patients, J Korean Med Sci 2003, 18, 93-6, pp. 93-96.
Atopic dermatitis (AD) is characterized by an intensely pruritic skin disease with typical distribution
and morphology. The age of onset is nearly always within the first 5 yr of life, and lifetime prevalence
in children is roughly 10 to 15% in industrialized countries.
A. del Pozo, Restitution of cutaneous barrier from o/w bigels emulsifier-free, Association de
Pharmacie Galenique Industrielle, Paris 22-23 Oct. 2003
To evaluate the capacity of modifying water retention at cutaneous level (WHC:water holding
capacity) of formulation elaborated with Emulfree CBG (INCI: Isostearyl Alcohol and Butylene
Glycol Cocoate and Ethylcellulose), a new stabilizer system o/w bigel type emulsifier-free
preparations.
S. Guehenneux, I. Le Fur, E. Tschachler, Influence of aircraft cabin environment on skin
hydration in healthy women, 12
th
EADV, 15-18. Oct. 2003, Barcelona
Airline passengers often complain about sensations of skin and mucous membrane dryness and
discomfort due to the dry atmosphere in aircraft cabins. Moreover, low relative humidity in the aircraft
cabin is an unavoidable consequence of pressurization at high altitudes. Despite the fact that very low
humidity is routinely encountered, no study of its effects on the skin has been reported in the cabin
environment. The aim of our study was to study the changes in skin hydration in healthy women
during long distance flights.
A.E. Sagiv, Y. Marcus, The connection between in vitro water uptake and in vivo skin
moisturization, Skin Research and Technology 2003, 9, 306-311
Adding hydroxyl groups to a consecutive set of polyhydroxyalkanes increases the humectancy of the
polyols in vitro. This elevation was found to be linear at low relative humidities (Relative humidity =
31,9% and 37C). In vivo, moisture was returned to normal within a week in all three groups.
However, only glycerol managed to abolish the erythema within 7 days.
P-A. Wendling, G. Dellacqua, Skin biophysical properties of a population living in Valais,
Switzerland, Skin Research and Technology 2003, 9, 306-311
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On average we observed low values of skin capacitance that identify subjects with dry skin. Measures
of skin visco-elasticity ratios were also particulary low, while skin pH and sebum content were in the
normal range. Age was correlated with a decrease of skin elasticity and sebum content, but there was
no correlation with hydration or pH.
T. Yokota, M. Matsumoto, T. Sakamaki, R. Hikima, S. Hayashi, M. Yanagisawa, H. Kuwahara, S.
Yamazaki, T. Ogawa, M. Hayase, Classification of sensitive skin and development of a treatment
system appropriate for each group, IFSCC Magazine, Oct./Dec. 2003, Vol. 6, No. 4
In order to find an effective approach to improve sensitive skin, it is important to know the detailed
mechanism of sensitive skin. In this study, detailed characteristics of sensitive skin were investigated
using non-invasive methods. Sensitive skin was classified into three different types based on their
particular characteristics.
J. Wiechers, S. Swaminathan, The equaliser, SPC Asia, Nov. 2003
In the quest to find the fountain of youth for skin, formulators of personal care products search for
ingredients with the potential to change skin back to the way it was when we were young adults.
Formulators have yet to find these magic ingredients but in their search they have devised skin-toning
materials that go a long way towards biologically changing the skin.
E. Kawai, Y. Kohno, K. Ogawa, K. Sakuma, N. Yoshikawa, D. Aso, Can inorganic powders provide
any biological benefit in stratum corneum, while residing on skin surface? , Revista SRCC, Vol.
3, Nr. 3/2003
The plasminogen (Plg) activation system plays a role in the process leading to dry skin In this study,
we have discovered that a urokinasetype Plg activator (UK), a trigger of thePlg activation system,
which was previously believed to work within the epidermis, also exists in stratum corneum (SC).
U. Heinrich, H. Tronnier, Johanniskraut-Extrakt zur Pflege der atopischen Haut, Kosmetische
Medizin, Ausgabe 3-4/2003, 24. Jahrgang
Die Bedeutung einer wirkungsvollen Hautpflege mit subakuter atopischer dermatitis sowie auch
Personen mit trockener empfindlicher Haut konnte in Zahlreichen Untersuchungen nachgewiesen
werden. Neben einem besseren Hautgefhl knnen Juckreiz, Rauhigkeit, Rtung und Trockenheit
deutlich vermindert werden. Gleichzeitig werden heute die angenehmen galenischen Eigenschaften
einer kosmetischen Hautpflege verlangt.
I. Le Fur, A. Reinberg, S. Lopez, F. Morizot, M. Mechkouri, E. Tschachler, Facial Skin circadian
rhythms of healthy women investigated using non-invasive methods, 22th IFSCC Congress,
Edinburgh, 23-26 September 2002
The investigation was performed during a weekend, subjects were sampled every 4 hours during a
48h-span making a total of 12 time point measurements.
H. Dobrev, L. Zissova, R. Iankova, Study of therapeutic effectiveness of four antidandruff
shampoos, 12
th
Congress of the European Academy of Dermatology & Venereology, Oct. 15-18 ,
2003, Barcelona, Spain. *
Dandruff and scalp seborrhoeic can be successfully treated with shampoos containing different active
substances. In patients with dry seborrhoea an increase in scalp lipid level occurs due to the
elimination of follicular occlusion and omprovement of sebum delivery.
H. Dobrev, Application of Cutometer Area Parameters for Study Human Skin Fatigue,
Department of Dermatology and Venereology; Medical University, Plovdiv, Bulgarien.
The hallmark of age-related changes of skin mechanical properties is the decrease in its elastic
properties (1-2). This results in bigger fatigue of adult skin than young skin after applying multiple
stress at one and the same anatmoic region. *
M. I. Nogueira de Camargo Harris Propriedades biomecnicas da pele, Pele : estrutura,
propriedades e envelhecimento, Editora Senac, Sao Paulo, 2003.
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A biometrologia cutnea, ramo da cincia que avalia quantitativamente as propriedades biomecnicas
da pele, tem encontrado na cosmetologia um importante aliado, pois o apelo mercadologico dos
produtos destinados aos cuidados com a pele e com os cabelos tem-se baseado cada vez mais em
evidncias cientificas e tecnicas sensiveis, precisas e validadas, ao inves de serem fundamentadas em
especulacoes.
T. Yokota, M. Matsumoto, T. Sakamaki, Classification of Sensitive Skin and Development of a
Treatment System Appropriate for Each Group, IFSCC magazine, Vol. 6, Nr. 4, Oct./Dec. 2003.
In order to find an effective approach to improve sensitive skin, it is important to know the detailed
mechanism of sensitive skin. In this study, detailed characteristics of sensitive skin were investigated
using non-invasive methods. Sensitive skin was classified into three different types based on their
particular characteristics.
Cr. Rodrigues da Silva, A Rain Forest Botanical improves bar soap properties, Happi, Nov. 2003.
The Amazon Rain Forest presents incomparable biodiversity, representing approximately 25% of all
the plants on earth. Its inhabitants, Indians or natives of the region often referred to as caboclos,
utilize this diversity to improve their health and beauty. The traditional use of these plants is often
referenced in the product stories told by cosmetic companies.
E. Hernandez Bioengineering in Dermatology and Cosmetology: Methods, Studies and
Prospects, SFW-Journal, 129. Jahrgang 11-2003.
One of the trends in modern dermatology and its perspectives for the near future are skin
bioengineering and imaging. The 1
st
joint meeting of two scientific societies focusing on
measurements and visualisation of skin function, structure and physiology the International Society
for Skin Imaging (ISSI) took place in Hamburg, May 21-24, 2003. Before that, the meetings and
conferences organised by these societies had been held separately.
R. Estanislao, M. Suero, C. Galzote, Dr. A. Khaiat In-vivo Evaluation of Skin Viscoelasticity and
Anisotropy Using Reviscometer RVM 600, Johnson & Johnson (Philippines) Inc.
A prototype of a new instrument, Reviscometer RVM 600 from Courage + Khazaka (Cologne,
Germany) was proven to measure in-vivo skin viscoelasticity and anisotropy. The measurement of the
instrument based on the speed of acoustical shock wave propagation in the skin done in different
directions allowed evaluation of skin firmness and directional variations in viscoelasticity.
H. P. Dobrev Mechanical Properties in Other Dermatological Diseases, Bioengineering of the
Skin: Skin Biomechanics, chapter 19, ed. by P. Elsner, E. Berardesca, K.-P. Wilhelm u. H. I. Maibach,
Dermatology: Clinical & Basic Science Series, CRC Press LLC, Florida/ USA.
Human Skin, as a complex multi-layered organ, has three major mechanical properties: Stiffness, i.e.,
resistance to change of shape; elasticity, i.e., ability to recover the initial shape after deformation;
Viscoelasticity, i.e., time-dependent deformation with a creep phenomenon and nonlinear stress-
strain properties with hysteresis.
These properties are altered in dermatological diseases, which are accompanied with pathological
induration or softening of the skin. Noninvasive bioengineering measurements allow quantifying the
alterations of skin mechanics in vivo.
R. Randall Wickett Standardization of Skin Biomechanical Measurements, Bioengineering of the
Skin: Skin Biomechanics, chapter 15, ed. by P. Elsner, E. Berardesca, K.-P. Wilhelm u. H. I. Maibach,
Dermatology: Clinical & Basic Science Series, CRC Press LLC, Florida/ USA.
Standardization of measurement methods has been a goal of many researchers working on noninvasive
measurement of skin function. For example, Pierard stated, optimization of noninvasive biophysical
measurements should benefit from strict standardization of measurements and frequent calibration of
devices. While no absolute standards for skin measurements have been published, helpful guidelines
have been published for measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and the electrical
properties of skin for assessment of skin hydration.
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U. Berndt, P. Elsner Hardware and Measuring Principle: The Cutometer, Bioengineering of the
Skin: Skin Biomechanics, chapter 07, ed. by P. Elsner, E. Berardesca, K.-P. Wilhelm u. H. I. Maibach,
Dermatology: Clinical & Basic Science Series, CRC Press LLC, Florida/ USA.
The biomechanical properties of human skin are a complex combination of elastic and viscous
components. Elasticity correlates with the function of elastin fibers; viscosity is controlled by the
collagen fibers and the surrounding intercellular ground substance, which consists primarily of water
and proteoglycans. The cutometer allows the measurement of the viscoelastic properties of the skin in
vivo, which provides valuable information on physiological and pathological changes of human
dermis as well as on the efficacy of topical treatments. It is recognized as a standard tool in
dermatological and cosmetic research.
A. O. Barel Product Testing: Moisturizers, Bioengineering of the Skin: Skin Biomechanics, chapter
21, ed. by P. Elsner, E. Berardesca, K.-P. Wilhelm u. H. I. Maibach, Dermatology: Clinical & Basic
Science Series, CRC Press LLC, Florida/ USA.
The presence of an adequate amount of water in the stratum corneum is important for maintaining the
following properties of the skin: general appearance of a soft, smooth, flexible, and healthy-looking
skin; and an intact barrier function allowing a slow rate of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) under
dry external conditions, which are frequently encountered.
M. Gloor, B. Wasik, J.W. Fluhr, Cleansing, dehydrating, barrier-damaging and irritating
hyperaemising effect of four detergent brands: comparative studies using standardised washing
models, Skin Research and Technology 2004; 10: 1-9.
Background and problem: It is well known that the damaging effect of surfactants on the stratum
corneum varies according to the surfactant used. The present investigations aim to compare four
standard commercial cleansing solutions (Esemptan Cleansing Lotion, Stephalen Shower Gel,
Manipur Antimicrobial Cleansing Solution and Tork Mevon55 Liquid Soap) with respect to
their cleansing and skin barrier-damaging effects.
A.W. Johnson Scientific Posters pres. by Unilever Research & Development, Unilever Home &
Personal Care, American Academy of Dermatology, Washington D.C., Feb. 6-11, 2004.
Dear AAD Participant, Unilever Research & Development is pleased to provide you with the enclosed
reprints of posters presented at this 62
nd
Annual Meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology.
The posters reflect the accomplishments of our many specialist scientists including biochemists,
spectroscopists, chemists, computational and structural biologists, and clinical investigators each
committed to extending the excellence in skin care research that Unilever has pursued for many
decades.
I. Arsic, S. Tamburic, S. Savic The Effect of Chamomile Extract on Skin Hydration and Tewl: Is it
more effective when encapsulated in Liposomes?, Euro Cosmetics, Ausgabe 2-2004, S.12-17.
The aim of this study was to investigate whether the extract of chamomile (Chamomilla recutita, (L)
Rausch, Asteraceae) increases skin hydration level and its barrier properties when used in an O/W
cream. In addition, it was of interest to find out whether the encapsulation of chamomile extract in
liposomes affects its skin functionality.
S. Amari, Cr. Schubert From Olive Oil an Innovative O/W Peg-free emulsifier: OLIVEM 1000,
Euro Cosmetics, Ausgabe 2-2004, S. 18-22.
Olive Oil is the one of the lipids showing the highest compatibility with our skin. Olive Oil in fact is a
precious vegetable oil as it has got a high similarity to human skin lipids. The sebum secreted by the
sebaceous glands works through an important activity: to protect the skin against the environment and
to reduce the Trans-Epidermal-Water Loss.
PCIA, Guangzhou/ China: Conference Proceedings, Step Exhibition Ltd., Kent, UK.
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This CD-Rom contains a number of interesting articles about the usage of different, cosmetological
applicants (like applying special, new designed facial colour products, special natural products etc.).
The effect on skin is investigated, such as sebum or melanin.
Prof. Dr. med. H. Tronnier, PD Dr. Ulrike Heinrich, Beautytek-Studie: Gutachten ber einen
Wirksamkeitsnachweis einer kosmetischen Behandlung, Dermatronnier, Institut fr experimentelle
Dermatologie i. A. fr medilab GmbH & Co., Wrzburg, Mai 2004.
Unter Bezugnahme auf unseren Forschungsauftrag 19/2/04 vom 20.02.2004 sowie unter Bezugnahme
auf Ihr Schreiben vom 29.09.2003 erstatten wir Ihnen nachfolgend ein Gutachten ber einen
Wirksamkeitsnachweis einer kosmetischen Behandlung. *
Institut u. Poliklinik fr Arbeits-, -Sozial- und Umweltmedizin der Univers. Erlangen-Nrnberg,
Hautbelastung, Hautbeanspruchung und Hautschutzverhalten bei Krankenpfelgeschler(inne)n,
Prof. Dr. med. H. Drexler.
Fragestellung: Wie hoch ist die Inzidenz beruflich verursachter Dermatosen unter Bercksichtigung
von Risikofaktoren, Exposition und Hautschutzverhalten bei Berufsanfngern in der Krankenpflege?
Welche Parameter sind geeignet, die berufliche Belastung zu objektivieren?
J. W. Arbogast, E. J. Fendler, B. S. Hammond, Effectiveness of a Hand Care Regimen with
Moisturizer in Manufacturing Facilities Where Workers Are Prone to Occupational Irritant
Dermatitis, Dermatitis, Vol. 15, No 1 (March), 2004: pp 10-17.
Background: Limited information documents the prevention and treatment benefits of a hand care
regimen using moisturizer in a controlled manner for employees in typical manufacturing situations.
Objective: The objective was to assess the effectiveness of a comprehensive skin care program
including skin conditioning lotion in multiple manufacturing environments where employees are at
high risk for skin disease.
R. von Pelchrzim, St. Soost, M. Worm, Klinischer Hautzustand bei Beschftigten im
Gesundheitswesen und der Einflu von Prventionsmanahmen, Dermatologie in Beruf und
Umwelt, Jahrgang 52, Nr. 1/2004, S. 26-32.
Mitarbeiter des Gesundheitswesens sind aufgrund der hufig durchzufhrenden Feucht- und
Naarbeiten besonders gefhrdet, toxisch-irritative Handekzeme zu entwickeln. Durch geeignete
Hautschutz- und pflegeprparate knnen die krpereigenen Reparaturmechanismen untersttzt
werden. In einer prospektiven Untersuchung wurden der klinische Hautzustand und die
hautphysiologischen Parameter bei Mitarbeitern des Pflegepersonals von Intensivstationen (IS) und
Normalstationen (NS) berprft.
J.E. Arrese, P. Quatresooz, P. Pierard- Franchisment, et. al., Indications diagnostiques de la biopsie
de surface au cyanoacrylate, Dermatologie Aktualit, No. 83, June-July 2004
La biopsie de surface au cyanoacrylate consiste prlever la partie superficielle de la couche corne.
La mthode est non invasive et habituellement indolore. Elle peut tre rpetitive au mme site. Dans le
domaine de la dermatologie clinique, les indications de ce type de prlvement sont multiples. Elles
concernent principalement le diagnostic des dermatites inflammatoires sqameuses, des infections et
parasitoses superficielles, ainsi que des tumeurs pigmentaires.
P. M. van Kemenade, M. M. J. Houben, J. M. Huyghe, Do osmotic forces play a role in the uptake
of water by human skin?, Skin Research and Technology 2004 10, 109-112.
Background/Purpose: To describe the water and ion transport through the skin under different
conditions, we developed a three-component mixture model. This model has proven to describe the
transient change in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after a change in relative humidity and the
result of damage to the skin.
K. Matsumoto, K. Mizukoshi, M. Oyobikawa, Establishment of an atopic dermatitis-like skin model
in a hairless mouse by repeated elicitation of contact hypersensitivity that enables to conduct
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functional analyses of the stratum corneum with various non-invasive biophysical instruments,
Skin Research and Technology 2004, 10, 122-129.
Pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis (AD) has been studied in animal models such as the NC/Nga mouse
strain or Balb/C mice that are repeatedly treated with 2,4,6-trinitro-1-chrolobenzene (TNCB). These
mice exhibit features of chronic contact dermatitis, including an intensified early type skin reaction,
increased number of mast cells and elevated serum IgE levels with a shift of cutaneous cytokine
expression from a type 1 to type 2 profile.
H. Dobrev (Department of Dermatology and Venereology, Med. Uni. Plovdiv, Bulgaria), Impact Of
Three Different Emulsions On Skin Hydration And Elasticity.
The well-hydrated skin is smooth, soft and elastic. Therefore, the restoration and maintenance of skin
water content is the main goal of skin care products. Currently, two kind of moisturizers are used [1,
2]:
Emollients (lipids), which reduce the loss of water from the skin by simple occlusion of its surface and
by improvement of water-holding capacity of stratum corneum in result of restoration of the lipid
layers around the corneocytes.
Humectants (urea, glycerin, lactic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, hyaluronic acid), which bind or
attract water in or to the corneal layer.
H. Tronnier, B. Garbe, M. Herling, M. Wiebusch, U. Heinrich, Nicht-invasive Testverfahren an der
Kopfhaut, sthetische Dermatologie, 2 2004, S. 30-37.
Zum Nachweis vorliegender Hautzustnde oder Funktionen sowie ihrer nderungen unter dem
Einfluss interner Faktoren oder externer Manahmen im positiven (zum Beispiel Wirksamkeit) oder
negativen Sinn (zum Beispiel Vertrglichkeit) gibt es zahlreiche nicht-invasive Testmethoden. Sie
knnen zum groen Teil modifiziert oder mit Vorbehandlung (zum Beispiel Rasur) auch an der
behaarten Kopfhaut eingesetzt werden.
M. Frschle, R. Plss, K. Bojarski, A. Peter, Antiaging Effect with Cosmotropic Substances,
SFW-Journal, 130, 4 2004, S. 36-43.
Water is one of the most important and limiting factors for plants, animals and humans. The human
being consists of 60-65% water and loses daily up to several liters through the skin. The regulation of
water content is therefore very significant. Plants especially have developed fascinating physiological
and structural strategies to minimize water loss and survive periods of dryness.
Hristo Dobrev, Comparative Study Of The Mechanical Properties In Erysipelas Of The Lower
Legs Using Suction Method And Share Wave Propagation Method, EADV Plovdiv Bulgaria, 13
th
Congress The Renaissance Of Dermatology, Florence 2004.
Inflammatory dermal edema in erysipelas alters skin mechanics. The aim of this study was to compare
the informativeness of two different methods for evaluation of skin mechanical properties.
Hristo Dobrev, Application Of Cutometer Area Parameters For Study Human Skin Fatigue,
Department of Dermatology and Venereology, Med. Uni. Plovdiv, Bulgaria.
The hallmark of age-related changes of skin mechanical properties is the decrease in its elastic
properties [1-2]. This results in bigger fatigue of adult skin than young skin after applying multiple
stress at one and the same anatomic region. Skin fatigue can successfully be evaluated with a suction
skin elasticity meter (Cutometer) using measurements with several repetitions of the measuring cycle
[3].
Pirard-Franchimont, O. Martalo, A. Richard, A. Rougier, Sebum rheology evaluated by two
methods in vivo. Split-face study of the effect of a cosmetic formulation, European Journal of
Dermatology, Volume 9, Number 6, 455-457, 1999, Revues.
Modulation of the rheological characteristics of sebum at the surface of the skin might represent a
valuable strategy for the treatment of seborrhea. In this field, only a small number of studies have
addressed sebum diffusion within the stratum corneum.
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Chris Packham (EnviroDerm Services), Damage to health from dermal exposure, Facilities
Manager 2004 (Health and Safety), pages 1-2.
Although there are no reliable statistics about the extent of damage to health from workplace dermal
exposure, there is no doubt that such exposure is a major contributor to the high level of occupational
ill health that still occurs in most industrial countries.
R. Marks, Seeing Through the Stratum Corneum, study on the new Biopsie method Biokit,
Courage+Khazaka electronic GmbH, Cologne, Germany.
The stratum corneum (SC) provides a vital barrier membrane dividing the potentially injurious
external environment from the vulnerable and metabolically constant internal tissues of the skin. It
impedes the flow of water across the skin restricting the normal loss of water to 0.5l/day the so
called normal transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
M. Gloor, B. Senger, M. Langenauer, J. W. Fluhr, On the course of the irritant reaction after
irritation with sodium lauryl sulphate, Skin Reserach and Technology 2004, 10, 144-148.
The sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) irritation test is a well-established model for irritant contact
dermatitis after the effects of surfactants. The course of changes in corneometric measurements
(stratum corneum hydration), in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), in laser Doppler measurements
(epidermal perfusion) and in colorimetric measurements (skin redness), after a single SLS irritation,
should be studied over time.
Symposium Medical Fr sie referiert, Hautzustandsmessung als Prventionshilfe am
Arbeitsplatz, Symposium Medical 2004, S. 22.
Whrend Augen, Ohren, Lunge und andere Organe, die am Arbeitsplatz Schadstoffen oder
Belastungen ausgesetzt werden, in der Arbeitsmedizin schon seit vielen Jahren berwacht und
gemessen werden, wird die Haut, die mit ca. 1,8 m das grte menschliche Organ darstellt, vielfach
auer Acht gelassen oder maximal visuell berprft.
P. Gasser, L. Peno-Mazzarino, E. Lati, B. Djian, Original semiologic standardized evaluation of
stratum corneum hydration by Diagnoskin stripping sample, International Journal of Cosmetic
Science, 2004, 26, 117-127.
Synopsis: In a normal and healthy skin, the regular elimination of the superficial corneocytes, called
desquamation, is a fundamental physiologic process intended to protect the barrier function of the
skin. This invisible loss of corneocytes, individually or in small groups, is incessantly compensated by
the divisions of the proliferative layer and the upward cellular maturation in order to maintain the
harmonious renewal of the epidermis and the integrity of the stratum corneum.
J. W. Fluhr, J. Ennen, Standardized washing models: facts and requirements, Skin Research and
Technology, 2004, 10, 141-143.
Regular skin cleansing with washing substances has medical, cosmetic, hygienic and socio-cultural
functions. In western cultures, the hygienic and cosmetic aspects prevail. The aim of a washing
process is to remove or reduce dust particles, microorganisms and odorous substances. The resident
skin flora in a washing process can be reduced significantly. The antiseptic effect of washing is gained
independently from the function of tensides, through the removal of dust and dandruff material from
the skin and hence through a reduction of growth medium for bacteria.
Ingrid Nicander, Stig Ollmar, Clinically normal atopic skin vs. non-atopic skin as seen through
electrical impedance, , Skin Reserach and Technology 2004, 10, 178-183.
In an earlier study, we have shown that the electrical impedance (IMP) is dependent on the lipid
content of the stratum corneum as studied by lipid extraction. Therefore, we now employ the IMP
technique to compare the properties of clinically normal atopic skin with that of non-atopic skin.
J.-L. Lvque, E. Goubanova, Influence of Age on the Lips and Perioral Skin, Dermatology, 2004,
208, pp 307-313.
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There are few objective descriptions of the age-related changes taking place on the lips and perioral
skin. This zone, however, has great importance in relational functions. Objectives: To describe
quantitatively the age-related changes in dimensions of the lips and the appearance of the perioral
wrinkles, to revisit, thanks to a new method, the pattern of the lip furrows, to compare the hydration
states of the upper and lower lips. *
P. J. Dykes, R. Marks, Unfolding or True Extension? The Mechanism and Importance of Stratum
Corneum Compliance, Stratum Corneum IV, Paris, 17.-19. Juni 2004.
-1y, 2y and 3y skin surface lines
-Role in stratum corneum compliance
- What happens to these lines on deformation (see pictures included)
- Stretched stratum corneum (see picture) etc.
H. Ranc, A. Elkhyat, C. Servais, B. Launay, Ph. Humbert, Coefficient de friction et mouillabilit de
la muqueuse linguale : influence dune couche de mucus salivaire, Nestl Research Center, Nestec
Ltd. P.O. Box 44, 1026 Lausanne, Suisse.
Les aliments, une fois en bouche, sont cisaills et comprims entre la langue et des surfaces telles que
les dents et le palais. La tribologie applique aux surfaces interagissant en bouche devrait permettre
d`expliquer certains phnomnes physio-chimique qui rgissent la perception orale de la structure des
aliments.
I. Van Reeth, M. Mor, R. Hickerson, New Formulating Options with Silicone Emulsifiers, Euro
Cosmetics 6, Juni 2004, 12. Jahrgang, Vol. Nr. 12.
In todays highly competitive skin care and underarm markets, multifunctional, high performance
products have the best chance of success. Consumers expect convenience and superior aesthetics.
They want long-lasting, highly efficient moisturizers; effective antiaging and anti-wrinkle creams;
durable, wash-off resistant, protective color cosmetics; and underarm products that go on smoothly,
without tackiness or residue.
Dr. Hans Lautenschlger, Individuell den Sonnenschutz messen, Kosmetik International, Vol. 8,
2004.
Die Sonne aktiviert unseren Stoffwechsel und frdert unser Wohlbefinden (siehe Ki 7/04, S. 77).
Allein die richtige Dosis entscheidet ber die heilende oder schdigende Wirkung. Ein berma an
Sonnenlicht fhrt zu Sonnenbrand und kann bei langfristiger Lichtschdigung das Risiko fr
Hautkrebs erhhen. Die Abnahme der Ozonschicht wird fr den deutlichen Anstieg von
Hautkrankheiten, Hautkrebs und Allergien der Atemwege verantwortlich gemacht.
Dr. M. Frschle, Dr. R. Plss, A. Peter, F. Etzweiler, Phytosteroids for skin care, Personal Care,
Vol. Sept. 2004.
Healthy skin is a largely self-regulating system. In order to keep metabolic processes functioning
efficiently, the relevant biological precursors and activators must be available to the skin cells for
metabolism. If, due to age-related changes, the body no longer provides a sufficient amount of certain
substances, an additional external supplement can proactively support the biological processes and
thus counteract the advance of the ageing process.
Sujong Kim, Byung Young Kang, Si Yong Cho, Dae Suk Sung, 20-O--D-Glucopyranosyl-20 (S)-
Protopanaxadiol (Compound K) induces expression of Hyaluronan Synthase 2 Gene in
transformed human Keratinocytes and Fibroblasts and increases Hyaluronan in Hairless mouse
skin, IFSCC Magazine, vol. 7, No. 3, 2004.
Ginsenosides, the major active ingredients of ginseng, show a variety of biomedical efficacies such as
anti-aging, anti-oxidation and anti-inflammatory activities. To understand the effects of 20-O--D-
glucopyranosyl-20 (S)-protopanaxadiol (compound K) one of the major metabolites of ginsenosides
on the skin, we assessed the expression level of approximately 100 transcripts in compound K-
treated HaCaT cells using cDNA microarray analysis.
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Chris Packham, You need hands: protecting your hands from the working environment. Health &
Safety International, October 2004.
In our daily life our hands will be exposed to many different hazards. Some of these will occur, or
mainly, at work, some in the home or in our hobbies or free time activities. In principle we can divide
these hazards into two main groups: physical and chemical.
P. Landa, F. Lam, I. Morosov, R. Rothman, D. Howard, A. Gestmann, Glycerin and Hydroxyethyl
Urea: Comparing Two Skin Moisturizers, Cosmetic & Toiletries, Vol. 119, No. 10, Oct. 2004.
Glycerin is widely considered to be the industry bench mark for skin moisturization. It has been
demonstrated by numerous methods to be an effective moisturizer when used at levels above 3%,
although the choice of vehicle can influence performance.
F.H.W. Jungbauer, J. J. van der Harst, J. W. Groothoff, P. J. Coenraads, Skin protection in nursing
work: promoting the use of gloves and hand alcohol, Contact Dermatitis 51, pp. 153-140, 2004.
Nursing has been indentified as a wet-work occupation, with a high prevalence of occupational irritant
contact dermatitis. Reduction of exposure to skin irritants contributes to the prevention of occupational
skin disease in nurses. The role of the use of soap and water, hand alcohol and gloves in prevention
programmes is discussed.
L. M. Rodrigues, P. C. Pinto, J. M. Magro, M. Fernandes, J. Alves, Exploring the influence of skin
perfusion on transepidermal water loss, Skin Research and Technology 10, pp. 257-262, 2004.
Eventual relationships between the vascular function and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), in vivo,
have not been entirely explored. By promoting local perfusion alterations through a well-known
challenge test, the tourniquet-cuff occlusion manoeuvre, the present study searches for other
dynamical factors influencing the cutaneous barrier, further exploring the applicability of these flow-
related variables in dermatological research.
A. Elkhyat, C. Courderot-Masuyer, S. Mac-Mary, S. Courau, T. Gharbi, Ph. Humbert, Assessment of
spray application of Saint GERVAIS water effects on skin wettability by contact angle
measurement comparison with bidistilled water, Skin Research and Technology 10, pp. 283-286,
2004.
The skin is responsible for protecting the body from physical, chemical and microbial injuries. The
stratum corneum is the top layer of the epidermis and it plays a key role in helping to contain moisture.
When the skin becomes damaged, its ability to perform these functions is compromised. Dry skin is a
common form of skin damage. Contact angle 0 between a surface and water is a good indicator of
hydrophobic or hydrophilic tendency of surfaces.
I. Angelova-Fischer, I. Petrov, P. Elsner, J.W. Fluhr, T. L. Diepgen, The objective severity
assessment of atopic dermatitis (OSAAD) score: interobserver variability with reference to the
SCORAD score (abstract), Skin Research and Technology 10, Abstracts, 2004.
The need for reliable and reproducible measures for assessment of atopic dermatitis severity has
resulted in the development of numerous scores most of which have not been adequately tested in
terms of validity, reliability, responsiveness to change and acceptability. The SCORAD index of the
European Task Force on Atopic Dermatitis has been considered the standard outcome measure in
clinical trials in the last decade.
H. Lambers, S. Piessens, A. Bloem, H. Pronk, P. Finkel, E. Voss, Natural skin surface pH is on
average below 5, which is beneficial for its resident flora (abstract), Skin Research and
Technology 10, Abstracts, 2004.
The acidic surface pH as well as the pH gradient over the gradient over the stratum corneum (SC) are
important for a good skin condition, supporting optimal structure and function of the lipid barrier and
SC homeostasis.
M. Visscher, J. Smith, R. Wickett, S. Hoath, Effect of hand hygiene regimens on stratum corneum
integrity and function (abstract), Skin Research and Technology 10, Abstracts, 2004.
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A national patient safety goal for 2004 is to reduce the risk of healthcare-acquired infections. To
achieve this goal, the organizations have been directed to comply with the hand hygiene guideline
issued in 2002 by the Centers for Disease Control (CDC). It developed to reduce the transmission of
microorganisms to patients and health care workers (HCW).
F. M. Hendriks, D. Brokken, C.W. J. Oomens, F. P. T. Baaijens, Influence of hydration and
experimental length scale on the mechanical response of human skin in vivo, using optical
coherence tomography, Skin Research and Technology 10, pp. 231-241, 2004.
Human skin is a complex tissue consisting of different layers. To gain better insight into the
mechanical response was studied with experiments of various length scales. Also, the influence of
(superficial) hydration on the mechanical response is studied.
V. Nikolai, K. Quecke, Beobachtungen zur Feuchtigkeitsregulation am Pferdehuf mittels TEWL-
Messung, Der praktische Tierarzt 85, Heft 11, S. 816-819, 2004.
Die Hornqualitt des Pferdehufes wird sowohl in Fachkreisen als auch von Laien oftmals anhand des
Feuchtigkeitsgehaltes des Hornes beurteilt. Aussagekrftige Messungen des tatschlichen
Feuchtigkeitsgehaltes liegen jedoch noch nicht vor. Vielmehr wird lediglich eine grobsinnliche
Beurteilung des Hufhornes durchgefhrt. Unter Einsatz eines aus der Humandermatologie
stammenden Gertes zur Bestimmung des transepidermalen Wasserverlustes wurde eine praktikable
Methode zur indirekten Erfassung des Feuchtigkeitsgehaltes von Hufhorn erprobt.
John J. Wille, Corneotherapy: skin hydration and occlusivity of some commercial skin
moisturizers and skin protectants, Skin Research and Technology 10, Abstracts, 2004.
Corneotherapy is defined here as a topical treatment that improves the condition of the stratum
corneum. In this respect, cosmetic and dermatological vehicles play an important role independent of
their capacity to deliver drugs or cosmetic actives, in formulating an optimal topical treatment for skin
diseases such as atopic dermatitis.
N. Barai, M. Visscher, A. LaRuffa, V. Narendan, St. Hoath, Vernix caseosa treatment for epidermal
barrier repair, Skin Research and Technology 10, Abstracts, 2004.
The very low birth weight (VLBW) preterm infant lacks vernix caseosa (VC), has an incompetent
stratum corneum (SC) barrier, and is predisposed to high water loss. Treatment with non-physiologic
creams (e.g., petrolatum, oils) have been associated with increased nosocomial infection and delayed
barrier repair.
S. Savic, S. Tamburic, M. Savic, N. Cekic, J. Milic, G. Valuta, Vehicle-controlled effect of urea on
normal and SLS-irritated skin, International Journal of Pharmaceutics, Okt. 2004.
It is known that, depending on the concentration, treatment with urea could improve skin barrier
function, despite its penetration-enhancing properties. This controversial skin effect of urea has been
explored systematically in this study in terms of the effect of vehicle on the performance of urea. In
the first part, a series of four semi-solid emulsions with 5% (w/w) urea, varying in the type of
emulsion, nature of emulsifier and polarity of oil ingredients, have been evaluated with regard to their
skin hydrating and transepidermal water loss (TEWL)-modifying properties.
N. Piccardi, Jean-Chr. Choulot, M. Philippe, Butyl avocadate : Managing Hyper-Seborrhoea,
Personal Care, November 2004.
Hyper-seborrhoea, acne and alopecia are among the most common diseases encountered by
dermatologists in daily practice. These pathologies are in part related to the hyper-activity of the 5-
alpha reductase (5-R), the enzyme that metabolises (Fig. 1) testosterone into 5-dihydrotestosterone
(5-DHT), a major potent androgen in human skin.
P. Quatresooz, L. Petit, I. Uhoda, C. Pierard-Franchimont, G. E. Pierard, Mosaic subclinical
melanoderma : An Achilles heel for UV-related epidermal carcinogenesis. International Journal of
Oncology 25: 1763-1767, 2004.
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Cutaneous cancers are not uncommon on the face of elderly patients. Melanin should protect, at least
in part, against the ultraviolet (UV)-induced neoplastic damage. However, the density in melanin
chromatophores is heterogenous in the epidermis of Caucasian adults. The computerized UV light-
enhanced visualization (ULEV) method is a sensitive tool to assess non-invasively this mosaic pattern
of intra-epidermal melanin load.
K. Wanatabe, M. Masuda, K. Nakamura, T. Inaba, T. Yanagida, T. Yanaki, A. Noda, A new makeup
remover prepared with a system comprising dual continuous channels (bicontinuous phase) of
silicone oil and water, IFSCC Magazine, vol. 7, No. 4, Oct.-Dec. 2004.
Removing makeup is considered to be the first step in the skincare process. Makeup that has served its
purpose is a kind of impurity that should ideally be removed completely to maximize the effects of
skincare products applied afterwards. However, the use of silicone resins has significantly improved
the long-lasting property of makeup with the result that makeup can hardly be removed efficiently
either with surfactant-type cleansers like soaps or with oil-based cleansers like liquid crystalline
cleansers.
G. Guglielmini, M. Cucchiara, Cosmetic treatment for heavy legs, Research and development
Laboratories, Pero, Italien, poster presentation, IFSCC Orlando USA, 2004.
Heavy legs is a really widespread problem. It hits the 50% of the adults of more than 50 years old,
with a with a prevalence for female sex, interested 4 times more than the male one. Subjects perceive
some symptoms associated to a sense of tiredness and to a sensation of pain for lower limbs
S. L. Zhang, C. L. Meyers, K. Subramanyan, Near-infrared imaging: a better approach to measure
and visualize skin hydration and to assess the mildness of skin cleansers, Unilever Research and
Development, poster presentation, IFSCC Orlando USA, 2004.
Optimal hydration is one of the key factors for effective functioning of the stratum corneum. The state
of skin hydration has been typically assessed through instrumental methods that depend on the
correlation of skin hydration with the electrical conductance and capacitance responses of the skin.
H. Shibayama, H. Indo, K. Ueda, K. Yoshio, Y. Kook Choi, Y. Ishigami, New Derivertives of
Supiculisporic acid as biosurfactants and application for cosmetics, Central Research Center,
Tokyo Beauty, poster presentation, IFSCC Orlando USA, 2004.
It is well known that some microorganisms produce surface-active substances on cultural conditions.
Recently, people in bio-industry pay attention is to the production of surfactants from saccharides or
hydrocarbons using microorganisms in large quantity and at reasonable prices.
F. Prin, D. de Qural, G. Georgesco, Age-related biomechanical properties of the normal human
skin: comparison of clinical and instrumental evaluations, Spincontrol Asia, Thailand, Laboratoire
R&D LVMH , Frankreich, poster presentation, IFSCC Orlando USA, 2004.
Ageing and photoageing induce a degradation of the biomechanical properties of the skin. These
biomechanical properties can be expressed in term in elasticity, tonicity, firmness, suppleness,
stiffness and laxity through clinical evaluation. We conducted a study in order to identify correlations
between these clinical terms and the parameters given by commercial devices dedicated to skin
biomechanical measurements.
Bertin, T. Oddos, A. Robert, H. Zunino, Anti-aging efficacy of the combination of
dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE) and mineral salts, Johnson and Johnson Consumer Europe, poster
presentation, IFSCC Orlando USA, 2004.
DMAE is currently used in cosmetic products to obtain lifting and firming effects. In in vitro studies,
DMAE was shown to enhance fibroblast proliferation. The objective of the in vitro studies performed
was to demonstrate an increase of the efficacy of the product when DMAE was associated to mineral
salts (mixture containing 5% of magnesium aspartate, 5% of zinc gluconate and 0,5% of copper
acetate). A clinical study was then performed to assess the efficacy of the complete product (DMAE +
mineral salts) in comparison with a placebo.
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Manoj Kumar, Biotechnology for Personal Care: A Case Study of Silk-Elastin Protein Polymer,
Biochemistry Department, USA, poster presentation, IFSCC Orlando USA, 2004.
Designer Proteins are in need as active ingredients to perform a variety of functions and to impart
desired characteristics to personal care product formulations. Advances in genetic engineering offer a
unique opportunity to design specific, targeted properties, and production of consistent fermentation
based protein polymers with desired properties that are important to provide specific benefits.
J. C. Leverett, J. Gour, J. Mayne, Immunofluorescent Imaging Of Dermal Proteins Using Laser
Scanning Confocal Microscopy, IFSCC Orlando 2004, Podium Proceedings.
More powerful tools are needed in order to develop the next generation of functional cosmetics.
Todays highly evolving field demands a greater understanding of the root causes of actinic and age
related damage that until recently were seen as merely surface phenomenon. By understanding these
causes, better solutions can be discovered which will produce a more profound effect for the
consumer.
G. Vielhaber, J. Ley, O. Koch, N-Palmityl-4-Hydroxy-L-Proline Palmityl Ester: A Ceramide
Analogue that provides efficient skin barrier repair, IFSCC Orlando 2004, Podium Proceedings.
The epidermal permeability barrier protects the skin against uncontrolled water loss and environmental
damage. It is located in the horny layer and consists of a compact lipid matrix of ceramides, fatty acids
and cholesterol embedded between the corneocytes.
H. Nishimura, Y. Takasuka, M. Yamamoto, Optical Properties of Skin Gloss and Development of
Mizumizushii Looking Makeup Foundation, IFSCC Orlando 2004, Podium Proceedings.
Modern makeup formulations are becoming ever more complex and diversified. Although sunscreens
and moisturizers are often added for better skin protection, the primary function for foundation
makeup remains making the skin appear beautiful.
Boyce M. Morrison, M. Paye, V. Charbonnier, H. I. Maibach, The Effect Of Surfactants On Skin As
Measured By Squamometry : A Sensitive Way To Observe Sub-Clinical Irritant Dermatitis,
IFSCC Orlando 2004, Podium Proceedings.
In order to define the early parameters of surfactant induced skin dryness, an exaggerated hand
washing model has been chosen to assess the effects of three surfactants, SLS, SLES, and AOS on
stratum corneum function as measured visually, instrumentally, and through Squamometry. These
three surfactant solutions were compared to their water controls.
R. Marks, G. Khazaka, Diagnostik an der Grenzflche: Hinweise zur Hautoberflchenbiopsie, 16.
DGK-Symposium 2004, Kln, Posterpresentation.
Das Stratum Corneum (SC) blieb bis heute von den Dermatologen und Hautbiologen nahezu
unbeachtet. Diese mangelnde Aufmerksamkeit besteht weiter, obwohl mittlerweile erkannt wurde,
dass die Struktur eine lebenswichtige Rolle in der Aufrechterhaltung einer konstanten, inneren
physiologischen Umgebung spielt.
S. L. Hester, Chr. A. Rees, R. A. Kennis, D. L. Zoran, Evaluation of Corneometry (Skin Hydration)
and Transepidermal Water-Loss Measurements in two canine breeds, 2004 , The American
Society for Nutritional Sciences J. Nutr. 134:2110S, August 2004.
Mammalian skin is a highly dynamic organ that is constantly adapting to changes in its environment.
It provides structural, sensory, immunologic, and physiologic functions and contributes an essential
barrier function against potential environmental insults.
Product of the month, Frictiometer FR 770, SFW Journal April 2005.
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The Frictiometer FR 770 is integrated into the CK Multiprobe Adapter System MPA and supplies
another non-invasive test method for the human skin. Measurement of the smoothness condition of the
skin.
A. Bornkessel, M. Flach, M. Arens-Corell, P. Elsner, J. W. Fluhr, Functional assessment of a
washing emulsion for sensitive skin: mild impairment of stratum corneum hydration..., Skin
Research and Technology, 2005-11, May, pp. 53-60.
Sensitive skin has been described as a skin type with higher reactivity than normal skin and exaggerated
reactions to external irritants. Washing with soaps is harmful for barrier-related parameters.
H. Arimoto, M. Egawa, Y. Yamada, Depth profile of diffuse reflectance near-infrared spectroscopy
for measurement of water content in skin, Skin Research and Technology, 2005-11, May, pp.27-35.
The penetration depth of light in diffuse reflectance near-infrared spectroscopy for measuring water
content in skin is assessed both from theoretical and experimental points of view.
Near-infrared (NIR) spectroscopy provides information on such aspects as constituents concentration.
K. Ogoshi, J. Serup, Inter-instrumental variation of skin capacitance measured with the
Corneometer, Skin Research and Technology 2005-11, May, pp. 107-109. *
Commercially available measuring devices that allow for the quantitative evaluation of the stratum
corneum (SC) function and provide continuous data are an important advance in experimental
dermatology. The measurement of skin surface hydration state has gained considerable interest in
recent years because the water content of the SC influences various physical characteristics of the skin
such as barrier function, drug penetration, and mechanical properties.
G. Korinth, Th. Gen, H. M. Koch, Th. Merz, W. Uter, Visible and subclinical skin changes in male
and female dispatch department workers of newspaper printing plants, Skin Research and
Technology 2005-11, May, pp. 132-139. *
Irritant hand dermatitis is one of the major occupational diseases. Approximately 90% of all cases of
hand eczema are caused by occupational exposure. It is a well-established fact that wet work and skin
exposure to detergents or solvents often trigger irritant contact dermatitis. Even water can be a skin
irritant itself.
H. Dobrev, Application of Cutometer area parameters for the study of human skin fatigue, Skin
Research and Technology 2005-11, May, pp. 120-122.
The hallmark of age-related changes of skin mechanical properties is the decrease in its elastic
properties. This results in larger fatigue of adult skin than young skin after applying multiple stress at
one and the same anatomic region.
I. Arsic, S. Tamburic, S. Bulatovic, I. Homsek, G. Vuleta, Exploring moisturising potential of
naturals: The cases of St. Johns wort, chamomile and blackthorn, Euro Cosmetics 3-2005, pp.
14-21.
The application of plant extracts in cosmetics and toiletries has been a distinct trend over the last
decade and, given consumers interests in naturals, will probably continue. Both cosmetic and
dermatological practices have benefited from the use of new and re-discovered plants, as well as plant
biotechnology extracts.
K. De Paepe, E. Houben, R. Adam, F. Wiesemann, V. Rogiers, Validation of the VapoMeter, a
closed unventilated chamber system to assess transepidermal water loss vs. the open chamber
Tewameter, Skin Research and Technology 2005-11, May, pp. 61-69.
The Stratum Corneum (SC) the uppermost layer of the epidermis contains the barrier function of
the skin. Besides the proteinaceous hydrophilic corneocytes, this barrier consists of lipid-rich
hydrophobic intercellular bilayers.
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F. Tokumura, K. Umekaga, M. Sado, S. Otsuka, S. Suda, M. Taniguchi, Skin irritation due to
repetitive application of adesive tape: the influence of adhesive strength and seasonal variability,
Skin Research and Technology 2005-11, May, pp. 102-106. *
Medical pressure-sensitive adhesive tapes are applied to human skin in one of two ways, depending on
their indication for use. Either they are replaced and applied on the same site every day, as is the case
with traditional sticking plasters and surgical tapes, or they are pressed on to and remain on the skin
for a few days when used at the site of the transdermal delivery of drugs.
R. Marks, Diagnostic Clues At The Interface, Poster presentation, DGK Symposium Leipzig, 02.-
04.03.2005.
The stratum corneum (SC) has been comparatively ignored by dermatologists and skin biologists. This
lack of attention still persists despite the recognition that the structure plays a vital role in maintaining
the constancy of the internal physiological environment. It is the barrier properties that give the SC its
central role in skin physiology.
C. Pirard-Franchimont, V. Goffin, G. E. Pirard, Indaguer la couche corne. Biomtrologie par la
biopsie de surface au cyanoacrylate, Dermatologie Actualit, 87, pp. 23-26, 2005.
La biopsie de surface au cyanoacrylate est un outil diagnostique prcieux (1-3). Elle trouve aussi son
utilit en dermatologie exprimentale, lorsque la couche corne exprime certaines proprits
quantifiables (4). Nous rapportons ici un bref synopsis des mthodes qui ont vu le jour ces 20
dernires annes.
G. E. Pirard, Cyanoacrylate biopsy for cytologic evaluation of the epidermis, Department of
Dermatopathology, University Hospital Sart Tilman, Lige, Belgien.
Cyanoacrylate skin surface stripping (CSSS) is a time-honoured method. After its clever discovery, it
was soon applied for diagnostic purposes. Sampling on polyethylene slide was a decisive improvement
in the development of this method.
R. Debowska, K. Rogiewicz, T. Iwanenko, I. Eris, Folic Acid (Folacin) New Application of a
Cosmetic Ingredient, Kosmetische Medizin 3/2005, pp. 16-22. *
Many years of trials and research tests proved that a lot of well-known vitamins could be successfully
used in cosmetology. The available data indicate that one of them folic acid plays an important role
in life process of mitotically active tissues and its deficiency increases background level of DNA
damage.
G. Bhm, J. Nutzmann, M. Jansen, Neue Hautemulsionen zur Behandlung der postoperativen
Hautquellung der Chirurgenhand eine klinisch prospektive Studie, Kosmetische Medizin 07/05.
Chirurgen und OP-Personal erfahren durch das Tragen protektiver Handschuhe eine Erhhung der
natrlichen Respiration der Haut mit Bildung einer feuchten Kammer. Daraus resultiert ein stark
hydratisiertes, gequollenes und mazeriertes Stratum corneum mit Erniedrigung der normalen
Barrierefunktion.
H. Dickel, Th. M. Bruckner, St. M. Erdmann, J. W. Fluhr, The strip patch test: results of a
multicentre study towards a standardization. Arch Dermatol Res (2004) 296: 212-219, Springer
Verlag.
The strip patch test (SPT) is a variant of patch testing which is used for substances with a poor
percutaneous penetration. Penetration of the substance is enhanced by repeated applications of
adhesive tape prior to their application to the skin. However, no guidelines exist for standardized
performance of the SPT.
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122
V. Rogiers, E. Houben, K. De Paepe, Transepidermal Water Loss Measurements in Dermato-
Cosmetic Sciences, Bioengineering of the skin: water and the stratum corneum, sec. Edition, CRC
Press 2002, pp. 63-76.
The stratum corneum (SC) plays an important role in the clinical appearance of the skin as a result of
its water-holding capacity and lipidic content. In addition, it acts as a barrier to protect the body from
percutaneous absorption of a wide variety of xenobiotics, from desiccation, and from insults by a
number of environmental conditions.
C. Rosado, P. Pinto, L.M. Rodrigues, Comparative assessment of the performance of two
generations of Tewameter: TM210, TM300, International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2005. 27.
pp. 237-241.
The measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) has been established as one of the main
parameters in the assessment of skin barrier function. One of the most widely employed devices to
measure TEWL is the Tewameter. Courage and Khazaka launched the TM300 in 2003 and
successfully eliminated some of the limitations of the previous model.
Chris L. Packham, Helen E. Packham, Hilary M. Packham, A. Cherrington, Investigations into
different skin conditions in certain occupations, The Journal of The Royal Society for the
Promotion of Health, July 2005, Vol. 125, No. 4.
The aim of this study was to establish whether those working in certain occupations had skin with a
lower moisture content than would be considered normal. Skin moisture levels were measured as well
as visual assessment. Results indicated that all occupational groups studied had skin that was less well
hydrated than would be considered normal, although there were significant inter-individual variations
within any one group.
C. Vincent, M. Szubert, I. Eris, The assessment of efficacy, tolerability and cosmetic features of
Diosperin K 1% PROLONGATUM cream containing complex of diosmine, hesperidine and
vitamin K, Poster Presentation Centre for Science and Research Dr. Irena Eris, 2005.
Face redness and couperoses can cause very negative visual effect and influent on patientsquality of
life. Such type of skin requires special regime. Application of very gentle cleaners, sun protective
products and appropriate cosmetic creams can improve the skin condition and minimize the red face
effect.
C. Vincent, M. Szubert, I. Eris, K. Rogiewicz, Comparison of microtopography and profilometry-
two methods of skin surface analysis, Poster presentation Centre For Science And Research Dr.
Irena Eris, 2005.
The process of skin aging is connected with progressive changes in skin structure. The most
spectacular effect of skin aging are wrinkles and progressive unevenness of skin surface. Skin of
elderly people is thin and fragile due to complex changes very often summarized to reduced dermal
collagen and decreased cell proliferation.
C. Vincent, M. Szubert, I. Eris, K. Rogiewicz, Efficacy of Dr. Irena Eris Anti-Cellulite Body Cream,
Poster presentation Centre For Science And Research Dr. Irena Eris, 2005.
Cellulite is a skin problem which characterizes non-inflammatory lesions of subcutaneous tissue
(lipodystrophy), leading to changes in smoothness of skin surface. Epidemiological data indicates that
cellulite is problem for 80-95% of women population. The pathogenesis of cellulite covers complex of
different factors: genetics, hormonal and life style.
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123
Karl Lintner, Claire Mas Chamberlin, Philippe Mondon, Olivier Peschard, IgG fragments regulate
IL6 production in keratinocytes: potential use in anti-age treatments, Sederma S.A.S., Le Perray,
78612 France, Presentation at the ISCC in Florence 2005. *
Cytokines play a fundamental role in inter-cellular communication. Their secretion rate and cellular
concentrations are well regulated and in an equilibrium state (homeostasis) in healthy, young skin.
Ageing leads to changes in these equilibriums. DHEA clearly controls IL6: the age-related decrease in
DHEA (by a factor of >2 after age 50) is accompanied by increased IL6 levels. Cytokine IL6 is also
known to be strongly induced in skin by UV rays.
Johann W. Wiechers, Caroline Kelly, Trevor G. Bleaseand, J. Chris Dederen, FORMULATING
FOR FAST EFFICACY: INFLUENCE OF LIQUID CRYSTALLINE EMULSION
STRUCTURE ON THE SKIN DELIVERY OF ACTIVE INGREDIENTS, Uniqema Applied
Research, Skin R&D, P.O. Box 2, 2800 AA Gouda, The Netherlands, Wilton Centre, Redcar, UK,
Meerbeek, Belgium. Presentation at the ISCC in Florence 2005. *
In a previous publication, we described how the thermodynamic activity of an active ingredient could
be optimized in a cosmetic formulation by the choice of a primary and secondary emollient. This paper
describes our initial attempts to explain the influence of the emulsifier system on the dermal delivery
of an active ingredient. The emulsifiers studied in this investigation induced liquid crystal formation in
the formulations and interacted in two different ways.
F. Distante , V. Pagani , B. Green , A. Bonfigli , J. W. Fluhr, OBJECTIVE EVALUATION OF
PLACEBO EFFECT IN COSMETIC TREATMENT, Presentation at the ISCC in Florence 2005.*
Products packaging and efficacy claims may stimulate pleasant emotions during cosmetics use thus
enhancing their perceived benefits. Aim of the study: To objectively evaluate the influence of
packaging and strongly claimed attributes on cosmetic efficacy both by non-invasive bioengineering
techniques and by self-assessment. The selected cosmetic product was a marketed antiaging
gluconolactone-based formulation. The packaging was either a fancy refined jar or an unbranded plain
container.
Maurizio Giuliani, Gianfranco Amicosante, Luisa Di Marzio, Benedetta Cinque, and Maria Grazia
Cifone, Increase of skin-ceramide levels in aged subjects following a short-term topical
application of bacterial sphingomyelinase from Streptococcus thermophilus., Presentation at the
ISCC in Florence 2005. *
Several studies have demonstrated that ceramides play an essential role in both the barrier and water-
holding functions of healthy stratum corneum, suggesting that the dysfunction of the stratum corneum
associated with ageing as well that observed in patients with several skin diseases (i.e. atopic
dermatitis, psoriasis) could result from a ceramide deficiency. In a previous study, our group have
reported a significant increase in skin ceramide levels in healthy subjects, after a treatment in vivo with
a cream containing a preparation of S. salivarum subspeciem thermophilus, a probiotic belonging to
the lactic acid bacterium (LAB) group.
Patrcia M. B. G. Maia Campos, Mirela D. Gianeti, Gisele M. S. Gonalves, Lorena R. Gaspar,
Assessment of in vitro antioxidant and in vivo anti-ageing effects of cosmetic products containing
vitamin C and its derivatives on human skin, Presentation at the ISCC in Florence 2005. *
The objective of this study was to determine the in vitro antioxidant activity of vitamin C (AA) and its
derivatives, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), ascorbyl tetra-isopalmitate (ATIP) as well as their
in vivo anti-ageing effects by using Cutaneous Bioengineering Techniques on human skin. The study
of antioxidant activity in vitro was made with an aqueous and a lipid system, the luminol-
chemiluminescence, and malondialdehyde assay, respectively.
Sungyeon Ahn, Jihyun Bae, Seunghun Kim, Haekwang Lee, Seongjoon Moon, Ihseop Chang, Oksub
Lee, CORRELAT ION BETWEEN CUTOMETER AND QUANTITATIVE EVALUATION
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USING MOIRE TOPOGRAPHY IN AGE-RELATED SKIN ELASTICITY, Presentation at the
ISCC in Florence 2005. *
As aging occurs, our skin gets more wrinkles, becomes drier and loses its elasticity. Validating the
evaluation of skin elasticity is especially important, because it is not as visible as other signs of aging
such as wrinkles. Here, we identified the correlation between age and the parameters given by
Cutometer, and we present the parameters of that reflect the decreases in skin elasticity in terms of
ages. (U
r
/U
f
, U
a
/U
f
, U
r
/U
e
, U
a
, r = -0.687~-0.725). Also we developed an evaluation method to
quantify the sensory value of viewing. A five-grade standard of Moire topographic photo scale on face
was prepared using sensory evaluation of 20 to 61 year-old women.
G Oberto, A Berghi, F Portolan, E Bauza, C Dal Farra, and N Domloge,Cotton Honeydew
Oligosaccharides for Hair Care Cosmetics, Presentation at the ISCC in Florence 2005. *
Cotton honeydew extract is a unique composition of oligosaccharides, including fructose, glucose,
inositol, melezitose, saccharose, trehalose, and trehalulose.
The interaction of these oligosaccharides provides a stimulating effect on keratin synthesis, which
allows for protection against nutrient deprivation and osmotic stress. Consequently, we were interested
in studying the effect of these oligosaccharides on human hair, using scanning electron microscopy.
Paola Granata , Roberto Maffei Facino , Adriano Ghirardini , Enzo Berardesca , Grazia Primavera ,
Manuela Carrera,
TYROSYL-HISTIDINE DIPEPTIDE: A NEW APPROACH AGAINST
PREMATURE AGING, Presentation at the ISCC in Florence 2005. *
Oxidative fragmentation of polyunsaturated fatty acids in the skin generates cytotoxic aldehydes,
mainly 4-hydroxy-trans-2-nonenal (HNE), involved in premature skin aging and photo-aging, due to
the formation of collagen and elastin cross-links, skin enzymes inactivation, accumulation of lipid
peroxidation products. Since histidine-containing dipeptides have been recently shown to possess
carbonyl quenching activity, we developed a series of different dipeptides with the aid of
combinatorial chemistry and each of them was subjected to antioxidant and anti-carbonyl assays, in a
cell-free model using the ORAC assay (Oxygen Reactive Antioxidant Capacity) for anti-
lipoperoxidant activity, HPLC analysis for the evaluation of the HNE quenching ability and LC-
MS/MS for the characterization of the site and of the mechanism of adduction.
Toru Tsuchiya, Shinichiro Haze, Tetsuji Hirao, Junichi Hosoi, Akio Kikuchi, Ken Shoji, Masahiro
Tanida, Takanari Tsuda, ODORANT INHALATION LOWERED STRESS LEVELS
SYSTEMICALLY, SUBSEQUENTLY RESULTING IN THE IMPROVEMENT OF
CUTANEOUS FUNCTIONS:LINKAGE BETWEEN OLFACTORY SENSATION AND SKIN,
Presentation at the ISCC in Florence 2005. *
Our research conducted over several years has demonstrated that odorant inhalation produces an effect
on cutaneous functions by inducing changes in the neuroendocrinological system. For example,
inhalation of the natural sedative component of the rose flower, DMMB (1,3-dimethoxy-5-
methylbenzene), inhibited an increase in plasma cortisol levels and barrier recovery delay or an
increase in forehead sebum, which was induced by stress. These findings were obtained using
authentic experimental patterned stress and short-period odorant inhalation.
Rosnah Ismail, Salmiah Ahmad, SKIN CARE FORMULATION INCORPORATING SODIUM
LACTATES, SODIUM PCA AND LAURYL PCA: COMPARATIVE MOISTURISING
EFFICACY ON ASIAN SKIN , Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005. *
Sodium lactates, sodium PCA and lauryl PCA are known Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF)
commonly used in skin care formulations. In this paper, moisturizing efficacy of oil-in-water (O/W)
based emulsion containing 3% glycerin use as placebo and with additional NMF @1%, 3% and 5%
active were conducted in-vivo on 36 Asian subjects consisting of a mixture of one Indian, two Chinese
and the rest Malays including 21 females and 15 males, age between 23 to 45 years old (average 32
years).
G.W. Nam1, S.H. Kim, E.J. Kim, J.H. Kim, B.G. Chae, H.K. Lee, S.J. Moon, H.H. Kang, I.S. Chang,
HOW SKIN CARE INGREDIENT CONCENTRATIONS CAN MODULATE THE EFFECT
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OF POLYOLS AND OILS ON SKIN MOISTURIZATION AND SKIN SURFACE
ROUGHNESS, Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005.*
The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of different skin care ingredient concentrations on
the effect of polyols and oils on the human skin moisturization and skin surface roughness. Polyols
and oils were essential ingredients to make a skin care formulation. But these were still not understood
how much concentrations display on human skin as efficacy and sensory. We studied to examine
various concentrations of ingredient by cosmetic companies using noninvasive methods.
Young Heui Kim, Ph.D., Young-Sil Kim, Jong-Heon Kim, Cosmeceutical Properties of
Polysaccharides from the Root Bark of Ulmus davidiana var. japonica, Presentation on the IFSCC
in Florence 2005. *
In Korea and China, Ulmus davidiana var. japonica has been used as traditional oriental medicine for
the treatment of difficulty in urination, skin inflammation, etc. In order to investigate the potential of a
polysaccharide extract from Ulmus davidiana var. japonica as a cosmetic ingredient, we measured its
moisturizing effect, photo-induced cytotoxicity, and anti-inflammatory effect. After hydrolysis, HPLC
experiments showed that the composition of polysaccharide was mainly rhamnose, galactose, and
glucose.
D. Vanden Berghe1, A. Barel, A. Timchenko, K. De Paepe, N. Demeester, P. Clarys, V. Rogiers, M.
Calomme, EFFECT OF ORAL INTAKE OF CHOLINE-STABILIZED ORTHOSILICIC ACID
ON SKIN, NAILS AND HAIR IN WOMEN WITH PHOTODAMAGED FACIAL SKIN, ,
Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005. *
Choline-stabilized orthosilicic acid (ch-OSA) is a bioavailable form of silicon. The effect of ch-OSA
on skin, nails and hair was investigated in a double blind, placebo-controlled study. Fifty women with
photodamaged facial skin were randomized to receive orally during 20 weeks 10 mg Si/day (ch-OSA
pellets) or a placebo. Non-invasive methods were used to evaluate skin microrelief, hydration and
mechanical anisotropy. Volunteers evaluated on a visual analogue scale (VAS) brittleness of hair and
nails. In the ch-OSA group the serum Si concentration was significantly higher after 20 weeks
compared to the placebo. Skin roughness increased in the placebo group but decreased in the ch-OSA
group. Skin anisotropy increased after 20 weeks in the placebo group but decreased in the ch-OSA
group suggesting improvement of mechanical properties. VAS scores for nail and hair brittleness were
significantly lower after 20 weeks in the ch-OSA group compared to baseline scores.
Katsuhiko Yagi, Katsuki Ogawa, Tetsuya Kanemaru, Kyoko Joichi, Naomi Kunizawa, and Ruriko
Takano, OPTICAL REJUVENATING MAKEUP USING AN INNOVATIVE
SHAPECONTROLLED HYBRID POWDER, Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005. *
For women, the sagging on the face skin that is noticed with aging is one of the important problems
that should be solved. Although conventional cosmetics that can prevent sagging are only skin-care
products, no makeup cosmetics that can correct the appearance of sagging have been developed. The
vital factors of an optical rejuvenating makeup were found to recover the skin tension and to lighten
up the face shadow appeared on the sagging skin. Therefore, the hybrid powder consisting platy
barium sulfate on the surface of titanium dioxide coated mica having red interference light was
developed. The panel test resulted that almost all panels could realize the rejuvenating effect of the
foundation containing the powder. The image analysis showed that the finishing of the foundation was
12-years-younger than no makeup face.
Jin-Hui Kim, Gwan-Sub Sim, Jin-Hwa Kim, Dong-Hwan Lee, Young-Ho Cho, Bum-Chun Lee,
Hyeong-Bae Pyo,Effects of Draconis sanguis on antioxidant and MMP-1 expression in human
dermal fibroblast, Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005. *
UV irradiation stimulates the production of free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) and
overexpression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) in the human skin. These cause various types of
cell damages and destruction of connective proteins such as collagen in the skin. In order to develop
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new anti-photoaging agents, we examined the antioxidant activity and the inhibitory effect of MMP-1
(collagenase) with the extracts of oriental herbs.
M. R. Pena Ferreira, P. Costa, M. F. Bahia Study of Efficacy Comparison of 20 Anti-Oily Hair
Shampoos Using Sebumeter SM 810, Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005. *
There are many different types of shampoos available to the consumer to control greasy hair. In our
study we compare the efficacy of 20 shampoos in the treatment of oiliness using a non-invasive
method (Sebumeter SM 810). A sample of 400 male and female volunteers with greasy hair or
tendency to oily (ages 18 - 65) was tested. All products reduced the sebum excretion rate after the 10
th
application of the tested shampoo. No significant differences were found between the results of the
shampoos.
Philippe Masson, Florence Merot, Marie-Jos AlbinN, Christine Simonet, Simone Flauto, Philippe
Pommez,
PSYCHONEUROIMMUNOLOGICAL EFFECTS OF A COSMETIC PRODUCT:
BENEFITS OF A MULTIFACTORIAL APPROACH, Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence
2005. *
Several publications have reported the existence of a relationship between individual mood and
immunological response, basing the observations on the variation in the salivary IgA and Cortisol
content [1,2]. Then, it seemed relevant to consider if such considerings could apply to demonstrate the
ability of specific cosmetic formulations to influence the users behaviour by providing them pleasure
and well being in addition to the usual cosmetic effects. The first results obtained have demonstrated a
lack of stability of the immunological responses and the obligation to correlate the results with
complementary parameters.
F. Distante , V. Pagani , B. Green , A. Bonfigli , J. W. Fluhr, OBJECTIVE EVALUATION OF
PLACEBO EFFECT IN COSMETIC TREATMENT, Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005.
*
Products packaging and efficacy claims may stimulate pleasant emotions during cosmetics use thus
enhancing their perceived benefits.
Aim of the study: To objectively evaluate the influence of packaging and strongly claimed attributes
on cosmetic efficacy both by non-invasive bioengineering techniques and by self-assessment. The
selected cosmetic product was a marketed antiaging gluconolactone-based formulation. The packaging
was either a fancy refined jar or an unbranded plain container.
John J. Wille, Cutaneous Delivery of Antioxidant Botanicals, Presentation on the IFSCC in
Florence 2005.
A truly effective anti-irritant strategy seeks to modulate checkpoints in the irritant signal cascade.
Earlier, we reviewed our work and the scientific and patent literature on anti-irritants (1-2) for
prevention and treatment of contact irritant due to topical cosmetic, dermatological and transdermal
drugs.
A. Koyanagi, N. Goto, S. Daikai, S. Uchida, N. Hayashi, N. Ikeda, M. Yoshioka, Evaluation of a
multi-functional hybrid polymer based on a novel technology: as emulsifier, lastarizer,
smoother, texture enhancer and moisturizer, Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005.
The copolymer consisted of hydrolysed silk protein and alkylmethylsiloxane was recently developed
by our technology. The copolymer enabled us to make stable Water in Silicone emulsion as well as
Water in Oil emulsion by cold process. It was dispersible in various kinds of oil, in spite of its
insolubility in water or solvents and this proved the important feature of this copolymer.
R. Ismail, S. Ahmad, Sodium lactates in skin lightening formulations: its synergy with other skin
lightening agents, Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005.
In many Western countries, skin lighteners and related products sold in the market are aimed to
prevent and treat melasma, freckles and age spots. However in Asia, skin-lightening products are
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127
primarily used to achieve the beauty ideal of a white and flawless skin, although they also treat
problem areas.
P. Tengamnuay, T. Rojanadilok, Comparative Efficacy Evaluation of Some Commercial Skin
Whitening Lotions, Presentation on the IFSCC in Florence 2005.
To have a white, smooth skin appears to be the most desirable feature among women, especially those
from Asian countries like China, Japan, Korea and Southeast Asia. As a result, a great number of
whitening products is available on the market. The active whitening ingredients in these products
range from conventional UV filters to highly sophisticated combination of various skin-whitening
agents.
Sonnen-Apotheke, Ktzing, Dermokosmetik, Beratung in der Apotheke, PTA Nr. 11, Oktober 2005.
Eine gute Untersttzung bei Promotionaktionen zum Thema Hautpflege sind Hautanalysegerte. Sie
erleichtern den Einstieg in die Beratung, individuell auf den Hauttyp und Hautzustand der Kundin
oder des Kunden abegestimmt.
Dr. Judit Nemes, Dr. Marta Alberth, Reliability and clinical usefulness of sudorometry in
measuring dental fear of children, University of Debrecen, Medical and Health Science Centre,
Hungary, Okt. 2005.
Dental fear is a common health care problem in the child population. To the effective management of
this handicapping trait, it is important to determine the prevalence of the problem in the community so
as to help in the planning of public health service.
K. de Paepe, V. Rogiers, Corneofix F20, a new technology to define skin desquamation,
Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in Phildelphia, USA, abstract.
The aim of the present study was the evaluation of a newly marketed methodology for the
characterization of the skin desquamation index (DI) being an important parameter for the evaluation
of overall skin condition.
D. Kowatzki, C. Machold, K. Krull, P. Elsner, J.W. Fluhr, Regeneration kinetic of sweating,
Stratum Corneum hydration, Surface pH, Sebum production and mechanical properties is not
altered by regular sauna bathing, Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in Phildelphia, USA,
abstract.
Wellness and especially sauna bathing are of growing interest in modern health care. The positive
effect of sauna for general health is well documented. However, to our knowledge no controlled
studies have been published on the effect of sauna on skin physiology.
M. Visscher, J. Smith, D. Said, P. Bondurant, R. Wickett, Stratum Corneum integrity and function
in health care workers following hand hygiene procedures, Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005
in Phildelphia, USA, abstract.
Compliance with the Centers for Disease Controls hand hygiene guideline is low and health care
workers (HCWs) cite skin irritation as highest reason for failure to comply.
J.W. Fluhr, M. Breternitz, M. Flach, P. Elsner, Acute eperimentally induced barrier disruption by
tape stripping is influenced by pressure, time and anatomical location: Integrity and Cohesion
assessed by sequential tape stripping, Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in Phildelphia, USA,
abstract.
Tape stripping is a well-known procedure in stratum corneum physiology research. Adhesive films are
pressed to the surface of SC and then removed. The superficial layers of SC adhere on the film and are
accessible for further investigations. Although this method is widely used, only few information about
standardization are known.
L. Bankova, P. Kleesz, R. Grieshaber, P. Elsner, J.W. Fluhr, Irritant potential of food additives: a
bioengineering irritation study, Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in Phildelphia, USA,
abstract.
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128
Goal of the study: To assess the skin irritant effects of food additives and the potential relevance for
the development of irritant contact dermatitis. Methodoloy: The irritants (ascorbic acid, acetic acid and
sodium hydroxide at different pH values) were applied to the skin of the mid-back of 19 volunteers
twice daily for four days using and occlusive epicutaneous patch test system and in combinations with
sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS).
A. O. Barel, K. Henau, P. Clarys, In vitro calibration and validation of the reviscometer using
silicone polymers as simple skin model systems, Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in
Phildelphia, USA, abstract.
In vitro determination of the mechanical properties and isotropy of various polymers used as skin
model systems can be determined using the shear wave propagation method. The Reviscometer
(Courage-Khazaka, Cologen, Germany) measures the resonance running time (RTT) between 2
sensors which are placed with constant pressure on the surface of the material. The RTT times are
expressed in arbitrary units related to time.
P. Clarys, K. Henau, A.O. Barel, Investigation of intrinsic and photoaging of human skin using
the reviscometer and the cutometer, Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in Phildelphia, USA,
abstract.
In vivo and mechanical isotropy/ anisotropy properties of the skin can be determined using the shear
wave propagation method (Reviscometer, Courage-Khazaka). The wave travelling time from
transmitter to receiver (Resonance Running Time, RTT), expressed in arbitrary time units, is inversely
proportional to the stiffness of the skin.
E. Ruvolo, N. Kollias, Aging the elastic parameters of human epidermis: the role of langers line
and skin anisotropy, Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in Phildelphia, USA, abstract. *
One of the dominant characteristics of aging of the skin is its loss of elasticity, yet measurements of
the mechanical properties of the skin yield relatively small changes in the percent values from youth to
advanced age using suction or torque based instruments.
C. Heinemann, C. Paschold, J.W. Fluhr, W. Wigger-Alberti, S. Schliemann-Willers, P. Elsner,
Induction of a hardening phenomenon by repeated application of SLS and subsequent analysis
of the changes in the lipid composition of the stratum corneum, Presentation on the ISBS Meeting
2005 in Phildelphia, USA, abstract.
The hardening phenomenon results from the adaptation of the skin to repeated influence of exogenous
irritative noxes. This study focuses on the lipid composition on the stratum corneum before and after
induction of a hardening phenomenon.
S. Son, S. Park, S. Ha, G. Park, G. Lee, C. Oh, Analysis of the skin hydration states using high
resolution magnetic resonance microscope, Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in Phildelphia,
USA, abstract.
Magnetic Resonance (MR) technique have been rapidly developed, and Magnetic Resonance Image
(MRI) is now the most versatile non-invasive diagnostic tool with a much higher resolution than other
imaging modalities such as conventional X-ray, or Computed Tomography (CT).
R. Voegeli, J. Heiland, S. Doppler, T. Schreier, Efficient and Simple Quantification of Stratum
Corneum Proteins on Tape Strippings, Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in Phildelphia,
USA, abstract.
Tape stripping is established as a common technique in dermatological research and is used in a broad
range of applications. However, a concurrent colorimetrical determination of protein content and
enzyme activity on the same tape is circumstantial.
M. Jouandeaud, C. Lenaers, S. Mazalrey, J. Dorotyn, B. Closs,Synthesis capacities of human
fibroblasts compared to those of fibroblasts from striae, Poster Presentation on the ISBS Meeting
2005 in Phildelphia, USA, abstract.
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The deterioation of the fibril network of the skin is due mainly to aging and other types of
modifications such as hormonal modifications. One of the problems often encountered as a result of a
modification of the skin fibrous network is striation.
Dr. AnsgarBehler, Sybille Cornelsen, Dr. Iris Huetter, A new multifunctional mono alkyl ether
citrate with unique properties, Poster Presentation on the ISBS Meeting 2005 in Phildelphia, USA,
abstract.
J. Molinero, R. Ojeda, J. Coll, A. Mirada, C. Trullas, Clinical and bioengineering evaluation of the
efficacy and safety of 30% urea cream in the treatment of hyperqueratotic skin disorders,
Presentation at the EADV London, Okt. 2005.
Topical products with high concentrations of urea have been recently incorporated to dermatological
vademecum. Urea, an active ingredient with a long history in dermatology has been extensively used
in several skin diseases due to their moisturizing, desquamating, antiproliferative and antipruritic
effect.
S. Savic, S. Tamburic, S. Vesic, G. Vuleta, C. Mller-Goymann, Effect of Vehicle Composition on In
vitro/ in vivo Hydrocortisone Penetration, Presentation at the EADV London, Okt. 2005.
Diffusion/penetration properties of locally applied drugs are affected by both the status of the stratum
corneum (SC) and by the composition and colloidal structure of the vehicle.
Hongbo Zhai, Emi Dika, M. Goldovsky, H. I. Maibach, Tape Stripping Method in Man:
Comparison on Evaporimetric Methods, Presentation at the EADV London, Okt. 2005.
Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) documents integrity of stratum corneum (SC) water barrier
function and is a sensitive indicator of skin water barrier alteration. Adhesive tape stripping is
commonly used for investigating SC physiology, bioavailability and bioequivalence of topical drugs.
H. Tronnier, T. Dirschka, U. Heinrich, Periorale Dermatidis (PD) Eine kosmetisch relevante
Dermatose, Poster Prsentation at the EADV London, Okt. 2005.
Die periorale Dermatitis (PD) als Krankheitsentitt ist 1964 von Mihan und Ayres erstmals in den
USA beschrieben worden. Die erste deutsche Verffentlichung 1969 stammt von Steigleder et al. Die
Erkrankung ist im Gesicht, vorwiegend perioral, aber auch perioculr lokalisiert. Es finden sich
lokalisierte Papeln und Papulovesikel in entzndlich gerteter Haut. Im Rahmen einer Studie wurden
Patienten mit PD und hautgesunde Vergleichspersonen untersucht.
Hristo Dobrev, Clinical and instrumental study of the sebum regulation efficacy of REGU-SEB,
Poster Presentation at the EADV in London, October 2005. *
Excessively oily facial skin is due to overactive sebaceous glands and can occur in both males and
females. The skin is greasy and shiny, with large open pores, feels unpleasant and may be a serious
cosmetic problem. Moreover, this type of skin is sensitive and much more prone to acne and
seborrhoeic dermatitis. That is why the control over the excessive oiliness is very important. *
A. G. Schepky, U. Holtzmann, K. Bohnsack (Beiersdorf AG, Germany), Novel effects of an acidic
humectant combination result in protection and activation of enzyme activity in human skin,
Presentation at the 14
th
EADV Congress, London, Okt. 2005.
Sensitive skin conditions result from an imbalance between endogenous, protective factors and
exogenous, aggressive stimuli like exposure o irritants, e.g. harsh surfactants. This imbalance goes
along with an impairment of skin enzyme activity.
Sang W. Son, Sang Y. Park, Seung H. Ha, Gyu M. Park, Objective evaluation for severity of atopic
dermatitis by morphologic study of skin surface contours, Skin Research and Technology 11/05,
pp. 272-280. *
Wide variation in outcome methodology can make the interpretation of patient outcomes confusing
and the comparison of the results of different studies almost impossible. It is important to objectively
measure and record the severity of atopic dermatitis (AD) for routine clinical practice and research.
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The aim of this study was to evaluate whether morphologic study of skin surface contours might be
helpful to objectively quantify the severity of AD.
M. Fischer, Chr. Donath, J. Radke, W. Ch. Marsch, J. Soukup, Skin function parameters in
intensive-care patients, Skin Research and Technology 11/05, pp. 268-271.
Intensive-care patients are at risk for organic failures. But there are hardly any results known for the
skin barrier function of patients in intensive care. There are only studies of transepidermal water loss
(TEWL) in premature infants (1,2). It was found that premature infants have an insufficient cutaneous
barrier, which can be improved by bland local therapy (2).
D. Schmid, F. Suter, F. Zlli, Soothing Factor from Opuntia Cactus for Sensitive Skin, SFW-
Journal 11-2005, pp. 14-18.
Sensitive skin tends to be more susceptible to some environmental factors. People with sensitive skin
report exaggerated reactions such as redness, itching or rashes when their skin is in contact with
certain cosmetics, plants or fabrics, hot or cold, or insect bites. Normally, people with sensitive skin
show quicker an erythemal reaction against ultraviolet irradiation.
G. Primavera, J. W. Fluhr, E. Berardesca, Standardization of Measurements and Guidelines,
Bioengineering of the Skin: Water and the Stratum Corneum, Second Edition, CRC Press 2005, pp.
83-95.
Measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is widely used to characterize the water barrier
function of skin (both in physiological and pathological conditions), to perform predictive irritancy
tests, and to evaluate the efficacy of therapeutic treatments on diseased skin. TEWL assessment can be
performed using different techniques [1,2] (closed-chamber method, ventilated-chamber method, and
open-chamber method).
Gabriel Khazaka, Assessment of Stratum Corneum Hydration: Corneometer CM 825,
Bioengineering of the Skin: Water and the Stratum Corneum, Second Edition, CRC Press 2005, pp.
249-261. *
The assessment of skin moisture is one of the first and most important measurements for testing the
efficacy of cosmetic products on the skin surface. The quantity of literature worldwide dealing with
this topic indicates the significance of this measurement. Numerous studies about the advantages,
disadvantages, and comparisons among the different commercially available devices have been
published.
G. Primavera, J. W. Fluhr, E. Berardesca, Electrical Assessment of Skin Hydration:
Standardization of Measurements and Guidelines, Bioengineering of the Skin: Water and the
Stratum Corneum, Second Edition, CRC Press 2005, pp. 287-295.
The importance of water to the proper functioning of the stratum corneum (SC) is well recognized.
The reliable quantification of water in the corneum and its interaction with topically applied products
is, in fact, essential for understanding skin physiology and developing efficient skin care formulation.
Chris Edwards, R. Marks, Hydration and Atopic Dermatitis, Bioengineering of the Skin: Water and
the Stratum Corneum, Second Edition, CRC Press 2005, pp. 323-333.
Frequently, the skin on noneczematous areas of atopic dermatitis (AD) sufferers feels rough and
appears dry. This xerosis is associated with the itch that accompanies the disorder. Reports of the
incidence of xerosis in AD patients vary from 48 to 98 %.
J.W. Fluhr, Chr. Uhl, Hautphysiologische Messungen in der tglichen Praxis: Corneometrie und
Sebumetrie bei physiologischen und krankhaften Hautvernderungen, Diagnostische Verfahren,
Kap. Nr. 37, 2005, pp. 321-345.
Grundlagen der Methoden: Bei der Corneometrie handelt es sich um eine nicht-invasive Messung der
Hautoberflche zur Bestimmung des Feuchtigkeitsgehalts im Stratum corneum. Die Messung erfolgt
auf kapazitivem Weg und beruht auf der Tatsache, dass Wasser eine von anderen Stoffen sehr
unterschiedliche Dielektrizittskonstante besitzt.
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Dr. G. Varju, Dr. G. Garay, Surface Evaluation of Living Skin (SELS) during
Microdermabrasion Treatment Course, Poster Presentation, Dr. Derm Laser Center of
Dermatology, Budapest Hungary, 2005.
Microdermabrasion has become a popular method of skin rejuvenation for treating photodamage, fine
rhytides, age spots, dyschromia, enlarged pores and mild ache. This procedure is one of the newest
skin rejuvenating techniques employed to help improve the texture and appearance of the skin.
H. Dobrev, The Effects of topically applied Matrixyl, natural grape seed and avocado oils on skin
surface, hydration and elasticity, EADV, May 2005, Sofia, Bulgaria (abstract). *
Background: Matrixyl is a lipophilic pentapeptide that stimulates the collagen synthesis by fibroblasts
in the skin. The grape seed extract is rich in flavonoids which are powerful antioxidants. Avocado oil
consists predominantly of unsaturated fatty acid glycerides, vitamins and minerals, and has good
emollient properties.
H. Dobrev, Evaluation of the efficacy of a Rooibos Extract containing anti-wrinkle cream,
EADV, May 2005, Sofia, Bulgaria (abstract). *
Background: Rooibos plant possesses scientifically proven anti-oxidative, anti-allergic, anti-microbial
and anti-inflammatory features. Aim: To evaluate the efficacy of a Rooibos extract containing cream
on aged facial skin using in vivo skin bioengineering techniques.
K. Schweikert, V. Kalhfer, B. Gabard, Improving the properties of Hyaluronic acid on dry skin,
Personal Care, Nov. 2005, pp. 35-39.
The effects of two cosmetic actives intended for the treatment of skin dryness (Hyaluronic acid and the
new Tamarindus indica seed extract) were evaluated in five healthy volunteers by objective
measurements after twice daily application on the skin of the volar forearm for two weeks.
Dr. I. Htter, Dr. A. Behler, S. Cornelsen, `Vitamin` of surfactants profiled, Personal Care, Nov.
2005, pp. 45-47.
Natural alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) or so-called fruit acids such as citric, malic or glycolic acid,
have been used for years in personal care applications. They are highly appreciated for their cosmetic
benefits, such as anti-ageing and moisturising.
C. Lenaers, N. Guichard, S. Mazalrey, B. Closs, A biological desquamation strategy for skin
resurfacing, Personal Care Magazine, January 2006, pp. 31-37.
The stacking of corneocytes constitutes the horny layer of the skin, or stratum corneum (SC) and
enables the epidermis to fulfil two of its principal functions. On the one hand, the SC ensures a barrier
and protection function between the organism and its environment by limiting both water losses and
the penetration of exogenous molecules.
L. K. Smalls, R. R. Wickett, M. O. Visscher, Effect of dermal thickness, tissue composition, and
body site on skin biomechanical properties, Skin Research & Technology 2006, 12, pp. 43-49. *
The epidermis, the fibrous collagen and elastin network of the dermis, and the hypodermis give rise to
the biomechanical properties of the skin. Measurements of these properties have been used extensively
to evaluate treatments for the repair of facial actinic damage and the effects of aging and to assess the
effectiveness of facial resurfacing treatments (1-3).
F. Khatyr, C. Imberdis, D. Varchon, J.-M. Lagarde, G. Josse, Measurement of the mechanical
properties of the skin using the suction test, Skin Research & Technology 2006, 12, pp. 24-31. *
The mechanical behaviour of skin in vivo is both viscoelastic (1,2) and anisotropic (3-5). Currently,
the suction test is the only real test that is in use in both research laboratories and dermatology
departments. This is mainly because of the availability on the market of perfectly operational
apparatuses such as the Dermaflex A (Cortex Technology, Hadsund, Denmark) (6) and in particular
the Cutometer SEM575 (Courage Khazaka, Kln, Germany) (7).
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F. Guillaumie, B. M. Malle, K. Schwach-Abdellaoui, T. C. Beck, A New Sodium Hyaluronte for
Skin Moisturization and Antiaging, Cosmetics & Toiletries Vol. 121, No. 4, April 2006, pp. 51-58.
In response to growing concerns about animal-derived sources for hyaluronic acid, some researchers
have turned to biotech methods to produce this skin moisturizing agent.
R. Ismail, S. Ahmad, Skin Care Formulation Incorporating Natural Moisturising Factor and its
Efficacy on Asian Skin, SFW-Journal, International Journal for Applied Science, 4 2006, pp. 2-7.
The skin has the property to retain water in order to maintain its proper barrier function. In situations
of environmental stress, age or intrinsic physiological disturbances, this function is maintained only in
part.
G. W. Nam, S. H. Kim, E. J. Kim, J. H. Kim, B. G. Chae, H. K. Lee, How Skincare Ingredient
Concentrations Can Modulate the Effect of Polyols and Oils on Skin Moisturization and Skin
Surface Roughness, IFSCC Magazine, Vol. 9, No. 1 2006.
The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of different skincare ingredient concentrations on
the effect of polyols and oils on human skin moisturization and skin surface roughness. Polyols and
oils are essential ingredients in a skin care formulation, but it is still not understood how their
concentrations affect their efficacy and sensory properties on human skin.
H. Matsuki, K. Kiyokane, T. Matsuki, S. Sato, G. Imokawa, Recharacterization of the Nonlesional
Dry Skin in Atopic Dermatitis through Disrupted Barrier Function, Exogenous Dermatology,
March 2006.
The etiology of the nonlesional dry and barrier-disrupted skin of patients with atopic dermatitis (AD)
is still unclear. Objective: To determine whether disrupted barrier function in the nonlesional skin is
associated with inflammatory or postinflammatory events, which are relevant to the severity of AD or
local dry skin properties, respectively.
H. Matsuki, K. Kiyokane, T. Matsuki, S. Sato, G. Imokawa, Reevaluation of the Importance of
Barrier Dysfunction in the Nonlesional Dry Skin of Atopic Dermatitis Patients through the Use
of Two Barrier Creams, Exogenous Dermatology, March 2006.
Atopic dermatitis (AD) can be considered a barrier disease in which antigens and irritants that can
easily penetrate clinically normal, nonlesional skin due to its defective barrier function trigger and
worsen the dermatitis.
J. W. Wiechers, C. Kelly, T. G. Blease, J. C. Dederen, Formulating for Fast Efficacy: Influence of
Liquid Crystalline Emulsion Structure on the Skin Delivery of Active Ingredients, IFSCC
Magazine Vol. 9, No. 1 2006.
In a previous publication, we described how the extent of skin delivery of an active ingredient can be
optimised in a cosmetic formulation by the choice of a primary and secondary emollient. This paper
describes our initial attempts to explain the influence of the emulsifier system on the dermal delivery
of an active ingredient.
H. Dobrev, Treatment of Acne with a new topical preparation. A clinical and instrumental study,
EADV, October 2006, Rhodes, Greece (abstract). *
Background: Sepicontrol A5 is a cosmetic active ingredient designated to improve the appearance of
oily, acne prone facial skin. Aim: To evaluate the sebum regulation activity, clinical efficacy and
safety of a 3% and 4% Sepicontrol A5 containing cream and gel in subjects with mild to moderate
acne.
E. Houben, K. De Paepe, V. Rogiers, Skin condition associated with intensive use of alcoholic gels
for hand disinfection : a combination of biophysical and sensorial data, Contact Dermatitis 2006 :
54, pp. 261-267.
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Hand hygiene of healthcare workers (HCWs) is of major concern to avoid nosocomial infections (1-4).
Therefore, hospitalwide infection control programmes prescribe disinfection of the hands after each
patient contact (5, 6).
E. Xhauflaire-Uhoda, G. Loussouarn, Chr. Haubrechts, G. E. Pierad, Skin capacitance imaging and
corneosurfametry. A comparative assessment of the impact of sufactants on stratum corneum,
Contact Dermatitis 2006 : 54, pp. 249-253.
Surfactants present in hygiene and skin care products are in part adsorbed at the skin surface (1), and
they can also permeate the stratum corneum (SC) where they interact with proteins and lipids (2). In
vitro studies have revealed a number of physico-chemical interactions between corneocytes and
surfactants.
Sparavigna, A. Di Pietro, M. Setaro, Sensitive skin: correlation with skin surface microrelief
appearance, Skin Research and Technology 2006: 12, pp. 7-10.
Sensitive skin has been defined as a condition associated with reduced cutaneous tolerance to
environmental factors, such as cold, heat and wind, and/or frequent or prolonged applications of some
topical products, such as cosmetics.
Chr. M. Lee, H. I. Maibach, M.D., Bioengineering Analysis of Water Hydration, Cosmetics &
Toiletries, Vol. 121, No. 3, March 2006, pp. 46-52.
The water content of the stratum corneum (SC) influences almost every biophysical property
measurable at the skin surface. Water hydration can be measured using the plastic occlusion stress test
(POST) or the water sorption-desorption test (WSDT).
G. Kutz, C. Bruns, S. Hennig, M. Enga, Current ingredients in semi-solid formulations and their
effects on skin hydration, transepidermal water loss and water resistance, Life Science
Technologies Pharmaceutical Engineering, Fachhochschule Lippe und Hxter, Germany, 2006,
poster presentation.
A series of factors like excessive treatment with detergents or organic solvents, UV irradiation as well
as low humidity are known to damage skin. Frequent barrier malfunction is due to a reduced amount
of lipids.
Wolfgang Geissel, Gesunde Haut durch gute Beratung, Igel Plus: Juni 2006, pp. 18-19.
Wird ein Mensch in der Sonne berhaupt braun und wenn ja, wie schnell und wie intensiv? Bekommt
er schnell einen Sonnenbrand? Mit einer kurzen Anamnese lsst sich der Hauttyp eines Menschen
grob in die Phototyp-Skala einordnen, sagt PD Joachim Fluhr von der Klinik fr Dermatologie der
Universitt Jena.
Newsletter #1/2006, Raumstation: Fachinformationsdienst zur Nutzung der Internationalen
Raumstation, Experiment SkinCare auf der Raumstation: Hautphysiologische Messungen in
Schwerelosigkeit, April 2006, p. 10.
Im Rahmen der geplanten europischen ISS-Langzeitmission von Juli bis Dezember 2006 sollten
erstmals systematisch physiologische Parameter der menschlichen Haut bei einem lngeren Aufenthalt
in Schwerelosigkeit erfasst werden. Dabei erlaubt der Einsatz moderner nicht-invasiver
Messverfahren, durch die Bestimmung von Parametern wie Feuchtigkeit, Barrierefunktion und
Mikrostruktur, den physiologischen Hautzustand exakt zu charakterisieren.
S. Tamburic, In vivo skin performance of a cationic emulsion base in comparison with an anionic
system, Journal of Applied Cosmetology, vol. 24, number 2, April/June 2006, pp. 63-74.
Cationic emulsifiers are relatively recent addition to the vast range of emulsifiers for personal care
products. There are very few data regarding their in vivo skin performance. This study presents a
comparative assessment of skin hydration potential of two emulsion creams: a cationic emulsion,
based on distearyldimonium chloride, and an anionic emulsion, based on hydrophobically modified
acrylic acid polymer.
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S. Tamburic, Effects of Polymer Entrapment of Prunus Spinosa Fruit extract on its cosmetic
efficacy, Journal of Applied Cosmetology, vol. 24, number 2, April/June 2006, pp. 1-14.
The aim of this paper was to find out whether the entrapment of herbal extract into polymeric
reservoir systems affects its skin efficacy.
C. Mas-Chamberlin, Ph. Mondon, F. Lamy, K. Lintner, Potential preventive performance, Soap,
Perfumery & Cosmetics, June 2006, pp. 38-40.
It is not easy to measure the preventive efficacy of skin care products, but Claire Mas-Chamberlin,
Philippe Mondon, Francois Lamy, Karl Lintner, Claire Jossan and Frederique Girard report on an
accelerated skin ageing-type process used to investigate active efficacy.
F. Tokumura, Y. Yoshihura, T. Homma, H. Nukatsuka, Regional differences in adhesive tape
stripping of human skin, Skin Research and Technology August 2006, 12, pp. 178-182. *
Medical pressure-sensitive adhesive tapes are applied to various regions of the human body for many
purposes. Although some adhesive tapes are designed for a specific purpose and applied to a single
region, such as first-aid bandages for the fingers and a variety of adhesive pads for foot-care, a large
number of adhesive tapes are applied to various regions.
S. Mac-Mary, P. Creidi, D. Marsaut, C. Courderot-Masuyer, V. Cochet, Assessment of effects of an
additional dietary natural mineral water uptake on skin hydration in healthy subjects by
dynamic function measurements and clinic scoring, Skin Research and Technology August 2006,
12, pp. 199-205.*
The skin acts as a barrier to the outside world, protecting the bodys organs and tissues from damage
and physical, chemical and bacteriological injuries. Moreover, it helps to keep the body temperature
under control. It also prevents the transcutaneous loss of water.
C. Lenaers, M. Dana, M. Pinel, B. Closs, Immediate and long-lasting skin tightening, Personal
Care, Sept. 2006, pp. 65-67.
The use of tensor active ingredients in anti-age care products is well-known to provide the users with
immediate and visible effects. Nevertheless, these tensor active ingredients provide only mechanical
effects on the skin surface that are also short-term effects.
D. Khazaka, Objective Measurement at all Stages of the treatment, 5
th
Asia Pacific Conference on
Antiaging Medicine, Bali, September 2006.
The days are over when a dermatologist only looked at the skin to make a diagnosis and to decide
about the following treatments and to recommend skin care products to use. For almost 20 years now
there is scientific equipment available to measure different parameters on the skin, such as hydration
and sebum level, pH, elasticity, pigmentation skin texture and wrinkles and many more.
D. Schmid, C. Schrch, F. Zlli, Mycosporine-like Amino Acids from Red Algae Protect against
Premature Skin-Aging, Euro Cosmetics 9-2006, pp. 18-22.
Normal skin aging is accompanied by slow and continuous structural, functional, and metabolic
changes in the skin. Such changes are greatly accelerated when the skin is exposed to solar UV
radiation. The solar UV spectrum which reaches the earths surface has been divided into UVB (290
320 nm) and UVA (320 400nm).
R. Ismail, S. Ahmad, Skin Care Formulation Incorporating Natural Moisturising Factor and its
Efficacy on Asian Skin, SFW-Journal No. 132, 4-2006, pp. 2-7.
The skin has the property to retain water in order to maintain its proper barrier function. In situations
of environmental stress, age or intrinsic physiological disturbances, this function is maintained only in
part. The water storage capacity of the skin decreases with an increased water loss by evaporation
(transepidermal water loss, TEWL), resulting in a dry, deep-wrinkled or even squamous skin.
Junko Ishikawa,
Hirofumi Narita,
Naoki Kondo,
Yutaka Takagi,
Yoshinori Masukawa,
and Takashi
Kitahara, Regional Analysis of Ceramides within the Human Stratum Corneum by Normal
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Phase Liquid Chromatography Electrospray Ionization Mass Spectrometry, Biological Science
Laboratories, and Analytical Research Center, Kao Corporation, 2606 Akabane, Ichikai-Machi, Haga-
Gun, Tochigi 321-3497, Japan, Oral Presentation on the 24
th
IFSCC Congress, Osaka, Oct. 2006. *
Ceramides (CERs) are the major component of the stratum corneum (SC), accounting for 30-40% of
SC lipids by weight. SC CERs, together with cholesterol and fatty acids, form extracellular lamellae
that are responsible for the epidermal permeability barrier. Previous studies reported decreases of SC
CERs in atopic dermatitis patients, who have low cutaneous barrier function. Such alterations of CER
contents may be responsible for the impaired water-barrier function of the skin in atopic dermatitis.
Rainer Voegeli, Anthony V Rawlings, Stefan Doppler, Thomas Schreier, Profiling of Serine Protease
Activities in Human Stratum Corneum, Oral Presentation on the 24
th
IFSCC Congress, Osaka, Oct.
2006. *
Epidermal serine proteases are involved in numerous physiological and pathological reactions in cells
and tissues such as proliferation, differentiation, lipid barrier homeostasis and tissue remodeling. Most
importantly proteolysis of corneodesmosomes is a crucial event prior to desquamation. Reduced
expression of kallikrein 7 (stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme or SCCE) and kallikrein 5 (stratum
corneum tryptic enzymes or SCTE) has been observed in the outer layers of the stratum corneum (SC)
in dry skin whereas increased total SC activities are reported following a challenge to the skin with
ultraviolet radiation or surfactants.
Chika Katagiri, Jotaro Nakanishi, and Toshihiko Hibino, Identification of a Regulatory Molecule in
Keratinocyte Denucleation and its Relevance to Barrier Disruption, Oral Presentation on the 24
th
IFSCC Congress, Osaka, Oct. 2006. *
The terminal differentiation of keratinocytes results in the formation of stratum corneum, that serves as
a protective barrier against hazardous environments. During the transition phase from granular to
cornified cells, keratinocytes lose their nuclei to form the cornified layer, a crucial step in completing
differentiation and to invoke subsequent physiological functions. Disordered differentiation frequently
leads to the persistent presence of nuclei in the cornified layers, a condition known as parakeratosis
that seriously disrupts the barrier function of the skin. This study is aimed at elucidating the
mechanisms of keratinocyte denucleation and its disorder, parakeratosis.
C. Lenaers, D. Boudier, Ch. Chauprade, D. Rondeau, B. Closs, Wrinkle Reduction by Stimulation
of the Skins Mechanical Resistance, Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 121, No. 11/Nov. 2006, pp. 47-
56.
Wrinkles are a symptom of structural failure in the dermis. They indicate that the skin is losing its
ability to support its own weight, and that fibroblasts in the dermis are losing their capacity to attach to
collagen fibers and transmit mechanical information.
L. Rigano, C. Andolfatto, Antiaging Effects of a Skin Repair Active Principle, Cosmetics &
Toiletries, Vol. 121, No. 11/Nov. 2006, pp. 57-64.
Sodium DNA is an ingredient with activity at the cellular level. This fact has led to its incorporation in
numerous high-end antiaging skin care products. An explanation of that activity and results of several
tests of one sodium DNA material are presented in this article.
D. Tamarkin, M. Eini, D. Friedman, Foam: The Future of Effective Cosmeceuticals, Cosmetics &
Toiletries, Vol. 121, No. 11/Nov. 2006, pp. 75-84.
The paramount objective of cosmeceutical development is to create effective products based on state-
of-the-art, active ingredients that are conveniently delivered. The vehicle used to deliver topical
ingredients can influence the performance of such ingredients since it can affect the delivery of the
active agent to the target site of action.
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S. M. Fuchs, C. Heinemann, S. Schliemann-Willers, H. Hrtl, J. W. Fluhr, P. Elsner, Assessment of
anti-inflammatory activity of Poria cocos in sodium lauryl sulphate-induced irritant contact
dermatitis, Skin Research and Technology 2006, 12, pp. 223-227. *
A great number of compounds is available for the treatment of inflammatory skin diseases like atopic
dermatitis (1), dermatitis solaris or psoriasis (2), the most effective external anti-inflammatory
compounds being glucocorticoids. Their side effects (3) have motivated a continuing search for other
therapeutical compounds, and fungal metabolites like Poria cocos (PoCo) have figured in the
literature. The present study was designed to evaluate the anti-inflammatory efficacy of PoCo extracts
against experimentally induced irritant contact dermatitis (ICD) in a non-invasive human in vivo
model with different parameters.
P. Quatresooz, J. F. Hermanns, Ph. Paquet, G. E. Pierard, Mechanobiology and force transduction
in scars developed in darker skin types, Skin Research and Technology 2006, 12, pp. 279-282. *
Skin of any part of the body is subjected to intrinsic mechanical tensions. These forces are oriented
along specific directions named Langers lines or relaxed skin tension lines according to the body
posture (1, 2). Any scar is under similar physical solicitations, but it is also the site of other forces
generated by the contractile properties of fibroblasts and myofibroblasts (3, 6).
E. Sang Park, J. Im Na, S. Ok Kim, Ch. H. Huh, S. W. Youn, K. Ch. Park, Application of a pigment
measuring device - Mexameter - for the differential diagnosis of vitiligo and nevus
depigmentosus, Skin Research and Technology 2006, 12, pp.298-302.*
Vitiligo, an acquired pigmentation disorder, is characterized by a loss of melanocytes and results in
white skin patches. Nevus depigmentosus (ND) is frequently confused with vitiligo, and is defined as
a congenital non-progressive hypopigmented lesion that is stable in terms of size and distribution
throughout life (1).
Ron Ofri, Keren Orgad, Ph. H. Kass, S. Dikstein, Canine meibometry: Establishing baseline values
for meibomian gland secretions in dogs, The Veterinary Journal (2006),
doi:10.1016/j.tvjl.2006.10.008. *
Meibomian lipid secretions are essential in preventing tear evaporation. Disorders of the meibomian
glands may therefore play an important role in the pathogenesis of some forms of keratoconjunctivitis
sicca (KCS). Until now, meibomian lipid secretions have never been quantitatively evaluated in dogs.
Tracy Sherwood, Just Below the Surface, GCImagazine (Dec. 2006), pp. 34-35.
In order to substantiate claims, manufacturers and brands must prove that their products do what they
claim with the safety of the consumer in mind. The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association
(CTFA) recently introduced its new commitment code for cosmetic companies, promoting industry
self-regulation regarding product safety.
Maria Miteva, Stefan Richter, Peter Elsner, Joachim W. Fluhr; Approches for optimizing the
calibration standard of Tewameter TM 300, Experimental Dermatology 2006, pp 904 912.
Calibration of devices measuring transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is in intensive discussion.
Comparative studies revealed that comparable measuring systems, e.g. open and closed chamber
systems, do not always deliver the same results.
Joachim W. Fluhr, Kenneth R. Feingold, Peter M. Elias, Transepidermal water loss reflects
permeability barrier status: validation in human and rodent in vivo and ex vivo models,
Experimental Dermatology 2006, pp 483 492
Permeability barrier function is measured with instruments that assess transepidermal water loss
(TEWL), either with closed- or open-loop-systems. Yet, the validitiy of TEWL as a measure of barrier
status has been questioned recently.
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Hiroshi Fujita, Tetsuji Hirao, Motoji Takahashi, A Simple and non-invasive visualization for
assessment of carbonylated protein in the stratum corneum, Skin Research and Technology 2007,
pp. 84-90.
Stratum corneum (SC) ist the interface of body and environment and is continuously exposed to
oxidative stress, resulting in oxidative modification of proteins. Consequent carbonylated proteins
(CPs) have so far been labelled with 2,4-dinitrophenyl (DNP) hydrazine and subsequently detected
with anti-DNP antibody.
Hristo Dobrev, In vivo study of skin mechanical properties in Raynauds phenomenon, Skin
research and Technology 2007, pp. 91-94.
Raynauds phenomenon (RP) is usually the first symptom in patients with systemic sclerosis (SS) and
may precede skin changes by several months or years. Non-invasive measurements of skin elasticity
are very sensitive and appropriate for objective and quantitative evaluation of sclerodermatous skin.
Uwe Wollina, Jrn Kubick,i Dexpanthenol supports healing of superficial wounds and injuries,
Kosmetische Medizin 5+6/2006, pp. 240-249.
Oberflchliche Hautverletzungen und Wunden sind hufig. Unter Einsatz eines Spektrums
verschiedener In-vivo-Modelle der epidermalen Barrierestrung und der Wundsetzung untersuchten
wir das Potential der topischen Dexpanthenol-Anwendung in der Frderung der epidermalen
Regeneration und der Wundheilung.
Barbara-Isabell Bettzge-Pfaff, H. Prieur, Nutzen einer adjuvanten Basiscreme bei trockener,
atopischer Haut, Kosmetische Medizin 5+6/2006, pp. 261-263.
Im Rahmen eines dermatologisch kontrollierten Anwendungstests und hautphysiologischer
Messungen an Patienten mit atopischem Ekzem hat sich eine lipidreiche Basiscreme auch bei Kindern
als effektive und gut vertrgliche Formulierung erwiesen. Nach Anwendung der Creme wurde eine
Steigerung der Hautfeuchtigkeit und Hautfettung sowie eine Verbesserung der Hautbarrierefunktionen
erreicht.
Catherine Lenaers, David Brunet, Katia Ladegaillerie, Magalie Pinel, Brigitte Closs, Influencing the
Equilibrium of the Cutaneous Ecosystem to Improve the Properties of Skin Prone to Acne,
IFSCC magazine-vol. 9, no 4/2006, pp. 305-310.
The skin is colonized by a variety of microorganisms such as Propionibacterium acnes,
Staphylococcus epidermidis and Malassezia furfur that are in a stable balance and form the resident
skin flora. The homeostasis of this ecosystem is of fundamental importance since it plays a barrier role
by limiting the invasion and growth of pathogenic bacteria on the skin surface.
Heike Heinrich, Birgit Garbe, Hagen Tronnier, Marie Bjot, Jean Marc Mauretta, Supplementation
with Nutritional Cartilage Extract Positively Influences Skin Hydration, Skin Barrier and Skin
Structure: A Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Study, IFSCC magazine vol. 9, no
4/2006, pp. 319-323.
The aim of the study was to evaluate the efficacy of polysaccharides from fish cartilage with regard to
their skin aging properties. An application test was carried out during the intake of cartilage tablets as
a nutrinional supplement.
Martina Kerscher, Ulrich Amon, Verhinderung des Feuchtigkeitsverlustes, DERMAforum Nr. 11,
November 2006.
Die neuen Produkte Cetaphil Creme und Cetaphil Lotion sind nach Erkenntnis der vortragenden
Hautexperten besonders fr trockene, empfindliche und geschdigte Haut geeignet. In der von Frau
Prof. Kerscher geleiteten Untersuchung an der Universitt Hamburg wurden die Creme und die Lotion
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in einer 14-ttigen monozentrischen, randomisierten und kontrollierten Studie an 20 Probanden im
Alter von 35 bis 64 Jahren getestet.
Andre Rougier, Sopie Seite, Clinical efficacy of topically applied vitamin C associated with
madecassoside on skin aging, AB28 J AM ACAD DERMATOL
Cutaneous aging is a complex biological process that affects the different compartments of the skin. In
sun-exposed areas, skin aging is caused by two distinct processes: chronological aging and sun-
induced actinic damage, called photoaging. We have previously demonstrated in vivo, the beneficial
effect of topically applied vitamin C in the treatment of skin aging.
Warren Wallo, Christiane Bertin, Thierry Oddos, Florence Costes Clinical improvement in the
appearance of photoaging with a serum containing retinal, AB30 J AM ACAD DERMATOL
Vitamin A has been proven to be an important ingredient for improving the appearance of photoaged
skin. Products containing retinol are available in various forms, such as creams, gels and lotions,
which are applied to the face as part of the daily skin care regimen. Serums represent a new patient
preferred form with better aesthetics an an enhanced delivery profile, capable of providing retinol and
aging benefits.
Nathan Trookman, Ronald Rizer, Rosanne Ford, Ronald Trancik Atopic dermatitis: Advantages of a
novel hydrogel vehicle, AB75 J AM ACAD DERMATOL
Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic condition requiring long-term use of medication where patient
compliance is essential to treatment success. The vehicle used can substancially affect the active
agents clinical action, potency and acceptability to the patient. Desonide is a well-known synthetic,
non-fluorinated corticosteroid with anti-inflammatory and anti-pruritic properties, currently available
in only cream, ointment and lotion formulations.
Jonathan Crowther, Paul Matts, Jennifer Jarvis, Quantification of body skin aging requires
measuring multiple parameters, AB29 J AM ACAD DERMATOL
Background: Changes in skin with increasing age result in alteration of its physical and chemical
characteristics. In areas of the body where skin is subjected to mechanical stress from repeated
bending (knees, elbows) or to environmental stressors, such as repeated exposure to UV radiation
(hands, dcolletage), these differences may become more obviously expressed.
Marie-Dominique Thouvenin, Virginie Turlier, Valrie Mengeaud, Pierre Morinet, Assessment of
efficacy, tolerance and cosmetic acceptability of 0,1% delta-tocopheryl glucoside serum on skin
aging, AB84 J AM ACAD DERMATOL
A biometrological, open, monocenter study was conduced to assess efficacy, tolerance and cosmetic
acceptability of 01,%delta-Tocopheryl glucoside serum in the skin aging treatment. Thirty women
between the ages of 35 and 45, with a minimum score of 3 on a 9-point-scale of wrinkles, applied the
product twice a day for 8 weeks on the face an on one forearm. A sunscreen pruduct (SPF 50) was
provided for sun exposure.
Teresa Weber, Alexandra Kowcz, Nathan Trookman, Ronald Rizer Evaluation of a moisturizer
containing sodium acetate and urea to ameliorate senile xerosis, AB33 J AM ACAD DERMATOL
Objective: to asses the ability of a commercially available moisturizing cream to ameliorate the dry
skin condition of subjects 65 to 86 years of age. Methods: in this 7-week, single-blinded, controlled
clinical study, 28 subjects with moderate to severe xerosis were treated twice daily for 6 weeks with a
moisturizing cream containing 10% urea and 5% sodium lactate.
Jean Luc Levy, Lise Agopian, Bernard Chadoutaud, Philippe Msika, Effect of a new cosmetic
formulation on reducing cutaneous pigmentation, AB174 J AM ACAD DERMATOL
Intracellular signal transduction pathways regulating melanogenesis imply PKC, camp through the
activation of PKA and NO. A new whitening formulation that targets these three different pathways,
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has been tested on melasma with image analysis and a particular interest on the quality of life (QoL) of
the volunteers.
Hanh Pham, Pearl Grimes, Aruna Parikh, Brian Jones, Efficacy of a skin lightening regimen to
improve melasma, AB170 J AM ACAD DERMATOL
Melasma is a common disorder of hyper-pigmentation. It is characterized by symmetrical brown-grey
pigmentation affecting the cheeks, forehead, upper lips and chin. It impacts all women, although the
disease is more commonly observed in darker racial ethnic groups. The condition is more common in
areas with intense ultraviolet light exposure.
Ronald Rizer, Nathan Trookman, James Herndon, Thomas Stephens, A 4-week, randomized, double-
blind, parallel group trial evaluating the efficacy and tolerability of sebum control AB14 J AM
ACAD DERMATOL
Excessive production of sebum on acne prone individuals often leaves skin with an undesirable
appearance that emphasizes facial shine, acne lesions, and enlarged pores. The factors that often
contribute to this appearance include family history, hormonal activity changes, stress and the use of
certain types of birth control pills.
Alain Bguin, Comparative in vivo Reviscometer-RRTM and ultrasonography techniques to
assess the anti-ageing efficacy of the Novel MF III of Switzerland Bluecell Extract Serum Gel,
Intercosmetica Neuchtel, Switzerland
The anti-ageing properties of a new facial care treatment, MF III of Switzerland Bluecell Extract
Serum Gel, were investigated using the shear wave propagation method (multi-angle measurements)
and the high-frequency skin ultrasonography, A2-month cosmetic efficacy study was conducted with
29 healthy female volunteers, aged between 30 and 64 (mean 54 years).
Andr Rougier, Gerald Pierard, Nudging acne by topical beta-lipohydroxy acid (LHA), a new
comedolytic agent, AB15 J AM ACAD DERMATOL
Beta-lipohydroxy acid (LHA) is a lipophilic derivative of salicyle acid. It exhibits a potent keratolytic
effect caused by the dissociation of the comedodesmosomes in the outmost layersof the stratum
corneum. In addition, topical applications of a 2% LHA formulation increased the thickness of the
epidermal germinative layers, stratum malpighi, and filaggrin layer.
Stacy Hawkins, Joanne Alicera, Srinivasan Krishnan, Robert Marriott, Clinical improvement to
photoaged skin with conjugated linoleic acid (CIA): A novel cosmetic PPAR lipid for anti-aging
benefits, AB15 J AM ACAD DERMATOL
Photoaged skin is the manifestation of accumulated skin damage from chronic sun exposure,
superimposed upon the chronological aging process. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) have been a
mainstay ingredient in anti-aging products for many years. New products are introduced annually
including ingredients such as retinol, retinol derivates, beta hydroxy acids, niacinamide, peptides and
prescription retinoids.
Tilmann Reuther, Ammal Atwan, Martina Kerscher, Evaluation of skin elasticity using an approach
with repeated deformation of the skin, AB15 J AM ACAD DERMATOL
One prominent feature of aged skin is the decreased capability of relaxation in particular after repeated
deformation. Measuring of this phenomenon appears to be an interesting approach for assessing skin
aging. However, comparatively little data dealing with this topic is available. Therefore the aim of the
present study is to evaluate skin elasticity after repeated deformation as a measure of skin aging with
respect to age and skin thickness.
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Rungisima Wanitphakdeedecha, Woraphong Manuskiatti, Sasima Eimpunth, Sadwalak Hunnangkul,
The effects of single application of mucopolysaccharide polysulphate (MPS), AB96 J AM ACAD
DERMATOL
To study the efficacy on the skin hydration of mucopolysaccharide polysulphate (MPS) 0,1% after
single application. Twenty female volunteers aged 30 to 45 years with dry skin, defined by the
corneometer, were recruited to the study. All subjects were asked to apply 2 g of MPS cream on a
selected forearm.
Rungisima Wanitphakdeedecha, Woraphong Manuskiatti, Sasima Eimpunth, Sadwalak Hunnangkul,
The effects of mucopolysaccharide polysulphate (MPS) on the hydration and elasticity of human
skin), AB95 J AM ACAD
To study the efficacy of mucopolysaccharide polysulphate (MPS) in hydration and elasticity of human
skin. Methods: Sixty female volunteers aged 30 to 45 years with dry skin, defined by the corneometer,
were recruited to the study. The volunteers were randomly treated with MPS and placebo.
Toni Miller, Sonia Batra, Jose Ramirez, Evaluation of the effect of a Novel Bi-Mineral Complex on
photoexposed periorbital skin, AB32 J AM ACAD
The elasticity of the skin is attributable to elastic fibers that can stretch and then recoil. The elastic
fibers contain elastin a large protein synthesized by dermal fibroblasts that forms spiral filaments
comparable to springs. The spiral filaments are crosslinked together and, when the skin is stretched,
this crosslinking enables the spiral filaments to spring back to their original positions.
Luz Colon, Ronald Rizer, Lori Johnson, Nathan Trookman, Corneometric assessment of skin
hydration following the application of Metronidazole 1% Gel, AB13 J AM ACAD
Rosacea is a skin condition characterized by unsightly redness on the face, sometimes accompanied by
acne-like papules and pustules. Symtom flares are most often triggered by spicy foods, sun exposure
or irritating skin products. Accordingly, the irritation potential of any topical treatment prescribed for
rosacea patients should be considered.
Fernanda Distante, Valerie Pagani, Adriana Bonifigli, Luigi Rigano, Joachim Fluhr, Objective
evaluation of the placebo effect in cosmetic treatments. A randomized controlled study, IFSCC
Magazine vol. 9, no 3/2006
A products packaging and claimed efficacy may stimulate pleasant emotions during the use of
cosmetics, thus enhancing their perceived benefits. The aim of this study was to evaluate if smart
packaging and strongly claimed efficacy attributes can influence the objectively measured efficacy,
allowing a true placebo effect to be associated with a given cosmetic treatment.
Maggie Fox, Its true Stress Makes Teens Break Out, 2007 ABC News Internet Ventures
Teen-Agers who claim that stress makes them break out are telling the truth: The stress of taking an
exam can make pimples worse, researchers reported on Tuesday. And surprisingly, inflammation may
be to blame and not greasy skin, sait Dr. Gil Yosipovitch, a professor of dermatology at Wake Forest
University School of Medicine.
Gil Yosipovitch, Mark Tang, Aerlyn G. Dawn, Mark Chen, Chee Leok Goh, Yiong Huak Chang, Lim
Fong Seng, Study of Psychological Stress, Sebum Production and Acne Vulgaris in Adolescents,
Acta Dermato-Venereologica, Volume 87, Issue 2, March 2007, pp. 135-139
Sebum production is though to play a major role in acne vulgaris in adolescents. Psychological stress
may exacerbate acne; however, it is not known whether the perceived association between stress and
acne exacerbation is due to increased sebum production.
Reto Muggli, Systemic Evening Primrose Oil for Irritated Skin Care, Cosmetics & Toiletries
magazine, Vol. 122, No. 2/February 2007
Dry skin is a common complaint from men and women alike and its incidence and severity increase
with age. This condition is the result of an impaired barrier function, increased transepidermal water
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loss (TEWL) and a significantly lower level of ceramides in the horny layer that causes the skin to lose
an excessive amount of water.
A. Firooz, F. Gorouhi, P. Davari, M. Atarod, S. Hekmat, M. Rashighi-Firoozabadi, A. Solhpour
Comparison of hydration, sebum and pH values in clinically normal skin of patients with atopic
dermatitis and healthy controls, 2007 The Author(s), Journal compilation, Blackwell Publishing
Ltd.
The water content of the stratum corneum and skin surface lipids forms a balance that is important for
the appearance and function of the skin. An impaired balance may lead to the clinical manifestations
known as dry skin, which is particularly seen in patients with atopic dermatitis (AD).
Kazue Tsukahara, Mitsuyuki Hotta, Tsutomu Fujimura, Keiichi Haketa, Takashi Kitahara, Effect of
room humidity on the formation of fine wrinkles in the facial skin of Japanese, Skin Research and
Technology 2007, 13, pp. 184 188
Changes in humidity are commonly known to influence the condition of the skin. Previous studies of
the skin dealt with variations in relative humidity (RH) either through statistical analysis or by
maintaining room humidity at a constant level; however, the range of humidity and the length of
acclimation varied in each study.
Laurence Ambroisine, Khaled Ezzedine, Anissa Elfakir, Sophie Gardinier, Julie Latreille, Emmanuelle
Mauger, Michel Tenenhaus, Christiane Guinot, Relationships between visual and tactile features
and biophysical parameters in human facial skin, Skin Research and Technology 2007; 13: pp. 176
183
Skin properties, such as colour, hydration and texture, can be studied on a qualitative basis by a
clinical assessment or on a quantitative basis using techniques thaqt measure biophysical properties of
the skin. The aim of this study was to explore the links between facial skin features and a range of skin
biophysical parameters using multivariate methods.
Hristo Dobrev, Evaluation of dry Skin: a comparison between visual score, corneometry and
image analysis, Poster presented at the 16
th
Congress of the EADV, 5/2007
The term dry skin describes a skin condition characterized by reduced quantity and/or quality of
moisture and/or lipids. The visible symptoms of dry skin are roughness, scaling and reduced elasticity.
In addition, patiens complain about tightness and itching.
Dr. Horst Frank, Dr. E. Schubert, Dr. H. Konrad, Dr. A. Eggert, Biokybernetik - ein sanfter Weg
zur Gewebestraffung und Krperformung, sthetische Dermatologie 2/2007, pp. 44 47
Dysformien, Alterungsprozesse, Schnheit und ewige Jugend. Die Angst des Menschen vor dem
Altern ist sicherlich der wichtigste Beweggrund, forever young zu sein. Daran hat sich ber die
Jahrhunderte nichts gendert. Das heute vorherrschende gesteigerte Krperbewutsein in Verbindung
mit einer erfreulich gesteigerten Lebenserwartung und einer bis ins hohe Alter erhaltenen krperlichen
und geistigen Fitness lassen diesen Wunsch jedoch immer mchtiger werden.
R. Moyon, K. Golz, L. Zastrow, The Formulation of a Distinctive Skin Care Product, SFW-
Journal / 133 / 4-2007, pp. 2 9
First of all, we drew up the requirements of our new skin care product. Our reasoning was to formulate
a benchmark emulsion with all the properties previously identified. To do this we mainly used raw
materials from silicone chemistry to obtain a stable finished product with the remarkable properties
observed on the market.
Walaiorn Pratchyapruit, Katsuki Kikuchi, Pimonpun Gritiyarangasan, Setsuya Aiba, Hachiro Tagami,
Functional analyses of the eyelid skin constituting the most soft and smooth area on the face:
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contribution of ist remarkably large superficial corneocytes to effective water-holding capacity
of the stratum corneum, Skin Research and Technology 2007, 13, pp. 169 175
The eyelid constitutes a unique area on the face because of its soft, smooth and thin skin distinct from
that of other facial portions. Its softness facilitates their easy compliance to blinking movement, which
is indispensable to protect the wet surface of the eyeball. Moreover, the skin of the eyelid does not
show any prominent follicular orifices of an oily appearance even in adults.
Hongbo Zhai, Emi Dika, Marina Goldovsky, Howard I. Maibach Tape-stripping method on man:
comparison of evaporimetric methods, Skin Research an Technology 2007, pp. 207-210
If the occlusion time of a closed chamber evaporimeter on the skin is too long, saturation might occur.
We previously compared an open chamber and a closed chamber device on healthy volunteers.
Comparable data on stripped skin with higher evaporation rates are not available.
H. Lambers, S. Piessens, A. Bloem, H. Pronk, P. Finkel, Natural skin surface pH is on average
below 5, which is beneficial for its resident flora, IFSCC Magazine-vol. 10, no 1/2007, p. 84
Variable skin pH values are being reported in literature, all in the acidic range but with a broad range
from pH 4,0 to 7,0. In a multic centre study (N=330), we have assessed the skin surface pH of the
volar forearm before and after refraining from showering and cosmetic product application for 24h.
U. Gnu Ll, D. Sensoy, M. ner, G. Yener, T. Altinkurt, Comparing the moisturizing effects of
ascorbic acid and calcium ascorbate against that of tocopherol in emulsions, IFSCC Magazine
vol. 10, no 1/2007, pp. 91-92
Calcium ascorbate (CAAS), which is a hydrophilic and stable derivative of ascorbic acid (vitamin C)
(AA), is commonly used on foods as an antioxidative agent. There are very limited reports on its
dermatological use in the literature. In this paper, it is reported that CAAS could be used in place of
ascorbic acid, which has chemical stability problems in topicals due to degradation by oxidation.
R. Bazin, C. Fanchon, Equivalence of face and volar forearm for the testing of moisturizing and
firming effect of cosmetics in hydration and biomechanical studies, IFSCC Magazine vol. 10, no
1/2007, p. 86
The objective of the study was to compare measurements of skin hydration and of biomechanical
properties perfomed on different zones of face and volar forearm. Thwo short-term (1h) and two long-
term (3 weeks) studies were conducted with a moisturizing and a firming product, respectively, on
groups of female volunteers with dry skin.
Kunio Shimada, Koji Awai, Hirofumi Irie, Ceramide Polymer improves skin texture, Personal Care,
May 2007, pp. 47-50
Anti-ageing cosmetics are increasingly demanded today. Many consumers, especially women, care
about keeping their skin young by controlling wrinkles and freckles and keeping their skin soft, firm,
smooth and beautifully white. Ingredients for controlling the ageing of the skin are demanded and are
actively studied.
Kazue Tsukahara, Mitsuyuki Hotta, Tsutomu Fujimura, Keiichi Haketa, Takashi Kitahara, Effect of
room humidity on the formation of fine wrinkles in the facial skin of Japanese, Skin Research and
Technology 2007; 13; pp. 184-188
Changes in humidity are commonly known to influence the condition of the skin. Previous studies of
the skin dealt with variations in relative humidity (RH) either through statistical analysis or by
maintaining room humidity at a constant level: however, the range of humidity and the length of
acclimation varied in each study.
Isaak Wontroba, Der Einfluss von linear polarisiertem Licht auf Hauttemperatur,
Hautwasserabgabe und sudomotorische Aktivitt, Digitale Dissertation FU Berlin, pp. 1-37
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Zur Untersuchung, welche Auswirkungen inkohrentes polarisiertes Licht (VIP = visible incoherent
polarized light) auf die menschliche Haut zeigt, sind in unterschiedlichen Messreihen an insgesamt 48
Probanden Vernderungen von Evaporation und Temperatur ber der Haut des Unterschenkels in
einem Messzylinder (Tewameter) untersucht worden. Verwendet wurde eine im Rahmen der VIP-
Lichttherapie eingesetzte Lichtquelle der Firma Bioptron.
Lawrence Ambroisine, Khaled Ezzedine, Anissa Elfakir, Sophie Gardinier, Julie Latreille,
Emmanuelle Mauger, Michel Tenenhaus, Christiane Guinot, Relationships between visual and
tactile features and biophysical parameters in human facial skin, Skin Research Technology 2007;
13: pp. 176-183
Skin properties, such as colour, hydration and texture, can be studied on a qualitative basis by a
clinical assessment or on a quantitative basis using techniques that measure biophysical properties of
the skin. The aim of this study was to explore the links between facial skin features and a range of skin
biophysical parameters using multivariate methods.
Walaiorn Pratchyapruit, Katsuko Kikuchi, Pimonpun Gritiyrangasan, Setsuya Aiba, Hachiro Tagami,
Functional analyses of the eyelid skin constituting the most soft and smooth area on the face:
contribution of ist remarkably large superficial corneocytes to effective water-holding capacity
of the stratum corneum, Skin Research and Technology 2007; 13; pp. 169-175
The eyelid constitutes a unique area on the face because of its soft, smooth and thin skin distinct from
that of other facial portions. Its softness facilitates their easy compliance to blinking movement, which
is indispensable to protect the wet surface of the eyeball. Moreover, the skin of the eyelid does not
show any prominent follicular orifices of any oily aapearance even in adults.
Pascale Quatresooz, Emmanuelle Xhauflaire-Uhoda, Claudine Pirard-Franchimont, Grald E.
Pirard, Regional variability in stratum corneum reactivity to antiseptic formulations, Contact
Dermatitis 2007; 56; pp. 271-273
Skin does not react in an identical way to the action of chemicals over all anatomic sites. Accordingly,
distinct regional differences have been described in relation to irritancy. The present study assesses the
regional variations of stratum corneum (SC) reactivity to 3 proprietary antiseptic solutions.
D. Segger, U. Amus, M. Brock, J. Erasmy, P. Finkel, A. Fitzner, H. Heuss, U. Kortemeier, S. Munke,
T. Rheinlnder, H. Schmidt-Lewerkhne, Multicenter Study on Measurement of the Natural pH of
the Skin Surface, IFSCC Magazine vol. 10, no 2/2007, pp. 107-110
Characterization of the skins natural state is very important for understanding skin functions and
describing disturbances of skin function. In the field of cosmetics and dermatologicals the natural pH
of the skin surface plays an important role in the development of products with a skin neutral pH.
Farina Hashmi, James Malone-Lee, Measurement of skin elasticity on the foot, Skin Research and
Technology 2007; 13, pp. 252-258
The Cutometer 580 MPA is a device that is designed to measure the viscoelastic properties of skin in
response to the application of negative pressure. The aim of this study was to test the Cutometer 580
MPA for the repeatable, quantitative measurement of the specific indices of elasticity of pedal skin.
Sungyeon Ahn, Seunghun Kim, Haekwang Lee, Seongjoon Moon, Ihseop Chang, Correlation
between a Cutometer and quantitative evaluation using Moire topography in age-related skin
elasticity, Skin Research and Technology 2007; 13; pp. 280-284
As aging occurs, our skin gets more wrinkles, becomes drier and loses its elasticity. Validating the
evaluation of skin elasticity is especially important, because it is not as visible as other signs of aging
such as wrinkles. So it is needed tha the method for measuring skin elasticity is able to reflect
perception about the change of the skin state.
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R. Voegeli, J. Heiland, S. Doppler, A.V. Rawlings, T. Schreier, Efficient and simple quantification of
stratum corneum proteins on tape strippings by infrared densitometry, Skin Research and
Technology 2007, 13; pp. 242-251
The analysis of stratum (SC) components is a widely accepted method to determine skin health
status or to follow the effects of topical treatments. These analytes are normally corrected to the
amount of SC removed which can be determined gravimetrically or by extraction of SC proteins and
their subsequent analysis.
M. Kerscher, T. Reuther, G. Schramm, Chlormadinonacetat enthaltende Mikropille verbessert
unreine Haut, Frauenarzt 48 (2007), Nr. 4, pp. 373-378
Moderne Mikropillen zeichnen sich besonders durch eine Reihe von Zusatznutzen aus. Den
wichtigsten stellt die Verbesserung des Hautbildes dar. Fr die Chlormadinonacetat-haltige Mikropille
Belara wurde in klinischen, kontrollierten Studien bei leichter bis mittelschwerer Akne die
berlegenheit im Vergleich zu einer Levonorgestrel-haltigen Mikropille und zu Plazebo
nachgewiesen.
Caroline Maria Weimer, Irritation durch Waschen und Desinfizieren, Digitale Bibliothek der
Universitt Marburg, 2006
Ziel dieser Studie war die Irritaion der Haut, hervorgerufen durch alkoholische Desinfektionsmittel
und das Detergens Natriumlaurylsulfat (0,5% NLS) in einem repetitiven Testdesign zu untersuchen.
Mittels nicht invasiver Untersuchungsmethoden quantifizierten wir die irritativen Effekte von
Sterillium, 2-Propanol 45% v/v, 1-Propanol 30% v/v, welches die alkoholische Grundlage von
Sterillium darstellt sowie von Wasser und NLS 0,5%.
E. Esposito, M. Drechsler, P. Mariani, E. Sivieri, R. Bozzini, L. Montesi, E. Menegatti, R. Cortesi
Nanosystems for skin hydration: a comparative study, IFSCC magazine vol. 10, no 2/2007, pp.
173-174
The present investigation describes a comparative study for the design of innovative topical
formulation for skin hydration. In particular, different colloidal forms based on lipidic components
have been produced and characterized. Morphology and dimensional distribution have been
investigated by means of electron microscopy and photon correlation spectroscopy.
C. Rosado, P. Pinto, L.M. Rodrigues, Comparative assessment of the performance of two
generations of Tewameter: TM210 and TM300, Blackwell Synergy, Int J Cosmet Sci, Volume 27,
Issue 4, pp. 237ff.
The mesurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) has been established as one of the main
parameters in the assessment of skin barrier function. One of the most widely employed devices to
measure TEWL is the Tewameter. Courage and Khazaka launched the TM300 in 2003 and
successfully eliminated some of the limitations of the previous model.
J. Fluhr, Whats Wrong with the Barrier, Dermatologie in Beruf und Umwelt, Jahrgang 55, Nr.
2/2007, p. 67
Irritant contact dermatitis is frequently observed not only in occupational dermatology but also in the
context of atopic dermatitis and under house-hold conditions. Functional analysis of epidermal barrier-
related parameters are performed using non-invasive instruments, based on biophysical measurements.
E. Berardesca, Bioengineering as a Tool in Occupational Dermatology, Dermatologie in Beruf und
Umwelt, Jahrgang 55, Nr. 2/2007, p. 67
Bioengineering techniques have been proven to be helpful in monitoring changes in skin physiology
and quantifying skin disease. Detection of subliminal or non visual changes is a challenge in order to
predict potentially pathological conditions such as irritation or pre-clinical dermatitis.
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W. Gehring, New Concept of Skin Protection after Occlusion and Wet Work, Dermatologie in
Beruf und Umwelt, Jahrgang 55, Nr. 2/2007, p. 67
Occlusion and wet work induce barrier damage, increasing the risk for the development of contact
dermatitis. The use of adstringent agents before exposure to the noxious conditions does not always
provide sufficient protection.
Gabriele Betz, University of Basel, Institute of Pharmaceutical Technology, Basel Switzerland, In
Vivo Comparison of Various Liposomal Formulations for Cosmetic Application, IcoS, June 2007,
Istanbul Trkiye, pp. 14-16
Liposomal formulations have been used for skin moisturization, due to the occlusive effect of a
phospholipid film deposited on the skin surface. Furthermore, interactions between liposoal lipids and
Stratum corneum lipids may affect positively the structure of the Stratum corneum. Phospholipids
themselves are hygroscopic and bind water.
Slaheddine Marrakchi, Howard I. Maibach, Biophysical parameters of skin: map of human face,
regional, and age-related differences, Contact Dermatitis 2007; 57, pp. 28-34
The face showed anatomical variation on reaction to chemicals, which could be related to differences
in biophysical parameters. 10 young human volunteers (24-34 years) and 10 old volunteers (66-83
years) were studied to prepare a map of the human face based on regional variations and age-related
differences by measuring various biophysical parameters.
M. Paye, S. Mac-Mary, A. Elkhayat, C. Tarrit, P. Mermet, P.H. Humbert, Use of the Reviscometer
for measuring cosmetics-induced skin surface effects; Skin Research and Technology 2007; 13; pp.
343-349
Many different non-invasive instruments are available to evaluate the mechanical properties of the
skin, characterized by different measuring approaches which include tensile, torsional, indentation or
suction skin deformations. An indirect approach consists in studying the propagation mode of a shock
or acoustic shear wave along the skin surface.
E.C. Ruvolo Jr. , G.N. Stamatas, N. Kollias, Skin Viscoelasticity Displays Site- and Age-Dependent
Angular Anisotropy; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2007-11-13, pp. 1-9
One of the dominant characteristics of skin aging is loss of elasticity. Although the changes in the
mechanical properties of the skin over several decades of life are substantial, objective measurements
have failed to capture their magnitude thus far. Moreover, the mechanical properties of the skin are not
uniform in all directions, and there is a need to understand this angular anisotropy.
Su-Han Kim, Margaret Song, Byung-Soo Kim, Hyun-Chang Ko, Sung-Jun Kim et al., Moisturizing
and anti-pruritic effects of pyroligneous liquid and petrolatum cream in atopic dermatitis, The
Journal of Skin Barrier Research, pp. 42-48
Atojoa cream used in this study contains active ingredients such as pyroligneous liquid and variety of
minerals, in a newly-made emulsified petrolatum base. In general, petrolatum is known as an excellent
moisturizer, but occlusive effect restricts ventilation. To preserve ventilation properties, we emulsified
the petrolatum by an ultrasonic emulsification method without wax nor other oils.
Young Min Park, Change of skin barrier function after cosmetic procedures; microdermabrasion,
chemical peeling and LASER, The Journal of Skin Barrier Research, pp. 32-36
With the recent interest in aesthetics, cosmetic procedures for facial rejuvenation such as
microdermabrasion, superficial chemical peeling, and LASER, are the preferred methods because they
have a low morbidity and prompt recovery. These therapeutic methods offer the benefit of patient
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146
returning to a normal daily life immediately after the procedure, bnut do not have a satisfactory
outcome after a single session, which means that repeated procedures are required at regular interval.
Eunjoo Kim, Gae Won Nam, Seunghun Kim, Haekwang Lee, Seongjoon Moon, Ihseop Chang,
Influence of polyol and oil concentration in cosmetic products on skin moisturization and skin
surface roughness, Skin Research and Technology 2007, 13; pp. 417-424
Cosmetic products are used to improve the skin surface appearance. Especially, moisturizers increase
the hydration of the stratum corneum and improve the physical and chemical properties of the skin
surface, making it moist, smooth and soft. Smoothing of the surface can be observed immediately after
application of a moisturizer as a result of the filling of spaces beween partially desquamated skin
flakes.
University of Basel, Inst. of Pharmaceutical Technology, In Vivo Comparison of Various Liposomal
Formulations for Cosmetic Application, 7
th
Int. Cosmetic Symposium (IcoS), 20-22 June 2007,
Istanbul Trkiye
Liposomal formulations hae been used for skin moisturization, due to the occlusive effect of a
phospholipid film deposited on the skin surface. Furthermore, interactions between liposomal lipids
and Stratum corneum lipids may affect positively the structure of the Stratum corneum. Phospholipids
themselves are hygroscopic and bin water.
Gabriel Khazaka, Useful and practical advice by measuring TEWL and skin moisture with
Corneometer CM 825 and Tewameter TM 300, The Journal of Skin Barrier Research
The Skin bioengineering measurement of skin hydration and transepidermal water loss is a useful tool
to evaluate the physicochemical status of skin. As integrated skin barrier function is also derived from
the interaction between subject and surrounding environment, the bioengineering measurement
technique has been evolved to predict the dynamic aspect of skin biology.
Susun An, Eunyoung Lee, Seunghun Kim et al. Comparison and correlation between stinging
responses to lactic acid and bioengineering parameters, Contact Dermatitis 2007; 57; pp. 158-162
Sensitive skin has been described as a skin type showing higher reactivity than normal skin. By our
consumer surveys, approximately 30% of the subjects believe that they have sensitive skin. However,
consumer-perceived cutaneous reactions are usually scientifically unconfirmed.
Gabriele Feller-Heppt, Christina Wagner, Selma Ugurel, Wirksamkeit und Patientenzufriedenheit
verschiedener Pflegecremes bei Atopikern und Neurodermitispatienten im erscheinungsfreien
Intervall, Kosmetische Medizin 5/2007, pp. 28-34
Bei Neurodermitispatienten stehen vor allem die Symptome trockene Haut und ausgeprgter Juckreiz
im Vordergrund. Hierdurch kommt es zu vermehrtem Kratzen und nachfolgend mglicherweise zum
Eintritt infektiser Erreger bei gestrter Hautbarrierefunktion und gestrter zellulrer Immunitt. Ein
neuer Ekzemschub kann entstehen und den Juckreiz noch verstrken.
ZD Draelos, Wake Forst University School of Medicine, USA The Skin Barrier Function in Rosacea
Patients is Preserved with the Use of a Gentle, Non-alkaline Skin Cleanser, 21st World Congress
of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Rosacea occurs most commonly in women with fair complexions between the age of 25 and 50 years,
although it does occur in other patient populations as well. Rosacea appears as redness similar in
appearance to sunburn and can be accompanied by papules and pustules.
M. Andreas, R. Bilenchi, G. Mariotti, M. Centini, L. Andreassi, C. Anselmi Phytic Acid: a Novel
Topically Active Antioxidant Suitable for Cosmetic Preparations, 21
st
World Congress of
Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Many substances with antioxidant activity are present in the human skin, and their concentrations are
generally higher in the epidermis than in the dermis. Under the effect of an oxidative stress, such as
that caused by ultraviolet (UV) rays, these substances are strongly depleted, especially in the external
epidermal layer.
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147
Bayerl, T. Walker, M. Arens-Corell, Dermatologically controlled in-use test of sebamed soap-free
washing bar in a daily care unit, 21
st
World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Suitability and tolerability of a soap-free washing bar for cleansing was evaluated in patients with skin
diseases. Recruitment of volunteers included consecutive patiens of an outpatient, daily care unit of a
dermatological hospital.
B. Piot, J. De Rigal, C. Yarhi, D. Compan-Zaouati, M. Lefebvre, The skin sebageous function: in
Asian and Caucasian climate influences, 21
st
World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires,
Argentina
Objective of the study: The first objective was to compare the sebaceous function in Asian and
Caucasians, female, in real life conditions, using both intrumental measurement and visual evalutation
by expert. A second objective was to investigate climate induced changes in the sebaceous function on
a separate group of Japanese women, using the same methodology.
ZD. Draelos, Skin barrier and desquamation in Patiens with mild plaque Psoriasis is improved
with the use of a gentle moisturizing cream, 21
st
World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires,
Argentina
Psoriasis is a disorder characterized by faster than normal skin growth and replacement. The result of
this rapid skin growth and replacement is a build-up of red, thickened areas with a scaly appearance.
The most commonly affected areas are the scalp, elbows, knees and back. These plaques are often dry
and non-pliable areas on the skin that can be a source of pain and/or discomfort to affected individuals.
V. Delvigne, E. Segot, D. Compan-Zaouati,P.Wolkenstein, S. Consoli, C. Rodary et al, Development
and Validation of a Questionnaire to Evaluate How a Cosmetic Product for Oily Skin is Able to
Improve Well Being in Women, 21
st
World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Purpose of the study: To develop and validate a questionnaire to assess the psychological and
psychosocial effects of oily skin condition in women and the outcome of a targeted cosmetic skin care
treatment. Methods: We developed a concise 18-item questionnaire (OSSIQ), including 2 dimensional
scales (emotional state and social behaviour), to assess the impact on self image and conficence of oily
skin condition.
C. Orlandi, R. Loubies, S. Baeza, C. Reyes, X. Worstman, Clinical Experience of the Treatment
with Pro-Xylane TM, Isobioline TM and Phytocomplex TM on Chilean Women with Hormonal
Aging, 21
st
World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina
An open and prospective study was performed in order to evaluate the action of a formulation with
pro-xylane, isobioline and phyto-Complex in 59 patients with hormonal aging during a period of
twelve weeks. An open and prospective study was peformed in 59 patients, between 50 and 65 years
of age (average 55 years old), with hormonal aging in order to evaluate the action of a formulation
with xylane, isobioline and phyto-complex.
P. Msika, S. Bredif, S. Garnier, J. Legrand, Oligosaccharidic and Peptidic Extract from Maca
Root: A new Cell Energizer With Clinical Anti-Aging Properties, 21
st
World Congress of
Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Purpose of the study: Maca (Lepidium meyenii) was an integral part of the diet and commerce of
residents of Andes region. The Incas found maca root so potent that they restricted Maca use to their
Royalty. Now days, maca powder is used worldwide as nutraceutical ingredient. We have developed
and patented an oligosaccharidic and peptidic extract obtained by a biotechnological process from
maca flour.
N. Garcia Bartels, A. Mieczko, H. Proquitt, R. Wauer, T. Schink, Ul Blume-Peytavi, Influence of
Bathing in Newborns: A Prospective, Randomized Clinical Study on Skin Barrier During the
First Four Weeks of Life, 21
st
World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Background: The adapting process of skin barrier to extra-uterine life and the influence of bathing on
term neonatess skin is not completely understood. Thus, we investigated the effect of bathing on skin
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barrier during the first four weeks of life. Methods: Monocenter, prospective, randomised study with
57 healthy full-term newborns (32 boys and 25 girls).
JW. Fluhr, M. Miteva, G. Primavera, M. Ziemer, P. Elsner, E. Berardesca, Functional Assessment of
an Acidic Skin Care System in Patients under Chemotherapy, 21
st
World Congress of
Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Background: Cancer patients undergoing chemotherapy frequently experience skin problems e.g.
xerosis. The aim of this study was to verify whether a concomitant treatment with an acidic washing
and emollient products (pH 5.5) can significantly improve the quality of the skin in such patients.
C. Oresajo, M. Yatskayer, H. Fares, T. Stephens, I. Hansenne, A Twelve-Week, Clinical Evaluation
of the Skin Firming Benefits of a Topical Product Containing Hyaluronic Acid and Oligo
Peptides on the Face, Neck, Upper Chest and Hands, 21
st
World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos
Aires, Argentina
Purpose of the study: The objective of this study was to assess the efficacy and safety of a test product
on subjects with mild to moderate photodamage on the face, neck, upper chest and hands. Methods: 69
female volunteers between the ages 35 to 65 years with mild to moderate photodamage on the face and
hands (scores 3-8 on a 10cm scale) were enrolled in 12-week single-center study.
L. Kapteine, R. Karls, Benefit of Keratolytic and Barrier Repair Emollients in Treating Lamellar
Ichtyosis Patient, 21
st
World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Background: Lamellar Ichtiyosis (LI) is characterised by generalised scaling, decrease of skin barier
function and resistance to ordinary emollients. Our case report include to assess and compare
keratolytic agents 5%, lactic acid and 20% propylene glycol effect on LI patients skin, to find an
optimal variant of skin care by combining keratolytic and skin restoring means.
P. Manissier, C. Fanchon, N. Piccardi, Combination of Lycopene, Soy Isoflavones & Vitamin C: a
Unique Efficient Oral Supplement to Prevent Skin Ageing, 21
st
World Congress of Dermatology,
Buenos Aires, Argentina, 2007
Aim: The purpose is to present a set of in vitro and in vivo studies showing the potential of the unique
combination of lycopene, soy isoflavones and vitamin C to stimulate cell renewal and prevent skin
ageing. Methods: in vitro studies involved two skin models, i.e. an in vitro reconstructed epidermis
(EPISKIN) and skin explants in culture. Skin explants were obtained from plastic surgery in
menopausal women. Each ingredient of the combination was introduced at plasmatic concentration
level in the culture medium to mimic systemic administration.
C. Montastier, A. Piccirilli, PH. Humbert, B. Dreno, N. Piccaqrdi, P. Manissier, Efficacy of a
Dietary Supplement Against Skin Dryness, 21
st
World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires,
Argentina, 2007
A specific nutritional supplement (NS) containing blackcurrant seed and fish oils, rich in omega-3 and
6 fatty acids, vitamins E and C and lycopene was developed. These nutrients are known for their key
role in the maintenance of skin homeostasis. In particular they have been shown, in vitro, to improve
ceramides in the epidermis and skin barrier function. The purpose of this presentation is to summarize
studies that support the efficacy of this nutritional supplement.
Y. Appa, S. Hornby, G. Grove, C. Zerweck, Glycerin Mitigates Surfactant Induced Barrier
Disruption, 21
st
World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina, 2007
Background/Objective: The effect of sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) on the skin barrier was explored in
an epidermal skin model where skin barrier breaks could be visualized using two photon fluorescence
(TPM) imaging. Other data from that study allowed us to calculate the dimensions of the damage. We
found that glycerin was superior compared to urea and propylene glycol in mitigating the SLS induced
barrier damage as evidenced by the lack of visual barrier breaks.
OL. Jammayrac, B. Boussouira, T. Vuillet, C. Camus et al, Fragile Lips-A Biochemical Insight, , 21
st
World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina, 2007
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149
Background/Objectives: Fragile lips are characterized by feelings of discomfort, presence of scales,
cracking and bleeding to different extents of severity. The most severe class very fragile lip is
predominantly observed on younger women. In the present study, the young female population was
targeted in order to further investigate the biochemical profile of fragile lips. 67 French women (age:
19-35 yrs) were investigated. A standardized clinical questionnaire targeting the vermilion, with items
on the signs and symptoms, occurrence and conditions linked to these signs and symptoms was
collected from the subjects.
AV. Anstey, A. Carter, K. Wyness, M. Kalavala, C. Edwards, A Study to Assess the Use of TL01
Dose Response Curves to Inform an Incremental Regimen for Narrow Band UVB Phototherapy
in Psoriasis, 21
st
World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina, 2007
Variation in narrow-band UVB (nbUVB) psoriasis treatment regimens between phototherapy units
affects the starting dose, the dosage increments and the ceiling dose. In the UK it is now standard
practice in most units to determine the minimal erythema dose (MED) on unaffected skin before
phototherapy commences, which informs the starting dose selected for each patient. A dose-response
curve for each patient can easily be constructed from the MED dose series without additional UVB
irradiation.
CG. Sason, VM Verallo-Rowell, The Efficacy and Safety of Illuminants Anti-Perspirant with
Gigawhite Versus Vehicle for Axillary Hyperpigmentation: a Double Blind, Parallel Group,
Randomized Clinical Trial, 21
st
World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina, 2007
Axillary Hyperpigmentation is a significant cosmetic concern of people with skin of color, most
especially those of women. The objective of this study wa to determine the efficacy and safety of
illuminants Anti-perspirant with Gigawhite in the treatment of axillary hyperpigmentation. This study
utilized a double blind randomised parallel group design.
N. Chua-Vivar, EJ. Masa, E. Handog, MS. Obleplass, A Prospective Randomized, Double-Blind,
Placebo-Controlled Trial on Efficacy of 10% Vitamin C Solution, Applied Using Iointophoresis
Technology, in The Treatment of Melasma in Filipino Women, 21
st
World Congress of
Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina, 2007
Background/Objective: Melasma is one of the major cosmetic concerns among Asians and Hispanics.
Among management options, hydroquinone has gained wide application despite the increasing
incidence of adverse effects associated with its use, even in preparations of lower potency.
Iontophoresis, a modality for enhancing drug penetration, is considered safe, effective, non-invasive
and in combination with whitening agents is purported as safer alternatives in treating melasma.
P. Msika, JL. Levy, L. Agopian-Simoneau, B. Chadoutaud, Effect of a New Cosmetic Formulation
on Reducing Cutaneous Pigmentation: A Clinical And Biometrological Approach, 21
st
World
Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina, 2007
Intracellular signal transduction pathways regulating melanogenesis imply PKC, camp through the
activation of PKA and NO. A new whitening formulation, that targets these three different pathways,
have been tested on melasma, with image analysis and a particular interest on the Qualiy of Life (QoL)
of the volunteers. The tested product was a cosmetic cream containing protein kinase C (PKC) and
protein kinase A (PKA) inhibitors, vitamins E and C.
C. Grolsman, C. Selem, S. Prez Damonte, N. Delic. P. Lpez, Etidronic Acid a New Concept of
Action for an Actie Ingredient of Conventional Use, 21
st
World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos
Aires, Argentina, 2007
Study Purpose: The aimof this study is the Etidronic Acid use (EA). This active ingredient is a
biphosphonate, the 1-Hidroxyethylidene-1, 1-di-phosphonic Acid. This active ingredient is well
known in the medical field an its application in different treatments. EA ist also listed as an ingredient
of several cosmetic formulations such as soap bars and shampoos.
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S. Cho, DH. Lee, CH Won, S. Lee, MJ Lee, JH Chung, A Rondomized, Double-Blind Clinical Trial
on the Clinical Efficacy of Oral Supplementation with Chlorophyll Extracts on Skin Aging, 21
st
World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina, 2007
Chlorophyll, a polyene photoreceptor of plants, is known to have anti-inflammatory effects. Though
its beneficial roles on aged skin were reported, there have been few systematic studies. The aim of this
study is to evaluate the efficacy and tolerability of dietary chlorophyll extract supplementation on
aging skin. Thirty healthy females (aged more thean 45) were randomised to take low-dose or high-
dose dietary supplementation containing chlorophyll extracts for 12 weeks.
E. Gubanova, L. Caisey, C. Camus, D. Barras, JL. Lvque, Influence of Age on Features and
Functional Properties of Lips, 21
st
World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina, 2007
There are very few reported works about ageing of lips and the perioral skin. This body area has
however great functional and aesthetic importance. It is also a peculiar transitional tissue area between
skin and mucosa. Purpose of the study: The present study was carried out to objectively describe the
different changes occurring in the functional properties of the vermilion (hydration, trans-epidermal
water loss (TEWL), mechanical properties, colour and tactile sensivity) and to compare these changes
with those occurring in the skin.
R. Yankova Skin Photoirritation and Provoked Pigmentation Rates Related to Topical Anti-Acne
Agents, 21
st
World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina, 2007
To investigate the skin photoirritation and pigmentation due to anti-acne topical treatments we
enrolled fifty volunteers in a study to evaluate the UV erythema after applying ten anti-acne
formulations. 3%, 5% and 10% benzoyl peroxide gel. 0,01 %, 0.025% and 0.05% tretinoin cream, 3%
tetracycline hydrochloride ointment, 1% clindamycine phosphate lotion, 1,2% zinc acetate dihydrate +
4% erythromycin lotion, and 20% azelaic acid cream.
Yan Cheng, Yi-ynag Dong, Mei-xian Dong, Chao Wang et al; Protection effect of cosmetics on
human skin under simulated rigorous environment, Skin Research and Technology 2008, 14, pp.
45-52
The efficacy of cosmetics on human skin measured under normal mild laboratory environment might
be discounted by exterior environment factors such as wind, UV exposure, etc. Few studies have
focused on the genuine efficacy of cosmetics on human skin during exposure to external rigorous
environment.
H.K. Lee, Y.K. Seo, J.H. Baek, J.S. Koh Comparison between ultrasonography (Dermascan C
version 3) and transparency profilometry (Skin Visiometer SV600), Skin Research and
Technology 2008; 14, pp. 8-12
A recently developed method to estimate skin smoothness is the replica method, which may have the
limitation of the roughness difference of actual skin due to the skin-replicating process. Therefore,
observation of dermal layer change is very important. For this purpose, ultrasonic display equipment is
generally used.
S.H. Lim, S.M. Kim, Y.W. Lee, K.J. Ahn, Y.B. Choe Change of biophysical properties of the skin
caused by ultraviolet radiation-induced photodamage in Koreans, Skin Research and Technology
2008; 14, pp. 93-102
Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation affects the function and complecion of the skin by inducing changes in
physical properties through formation of erythema, proliferation of epithelial cells, DNA damage,
activation or inactivation of various enzymes and proteins, and free radical formation. In this study,
the authors intended to observe the overall course of changes in barrier function and reflectance of the
skin induced by photodamage, and healing reaction in the course of time, and alteration of skin
complexion.
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Naveed Akhtar, Gulfishan Ahmed, Mahmood Ahmed, Nazar Ranjha, Ahmad Mahmood, Grapefruit
Extract Cream: Effects on Melanin and Skin, Cosmetics and Toiletries magazine, Vol. 123, No.
1/January 2008, pp. 55-68
Emulsions are thermodynmically unstable systems defined as microscopic dispersions of liquid
droplets contained within another liquid, with a diameter ranging from 0.5 to 100 um. Emulsions
usually consist of mixtures of an aqueous phase with various oils or waxes.
G. Maa, Anwendungsstudie der sebamed TROCKENE HAUT Produkte bei Kindern mit
atopischem Ekzem, Kosmetische Medizin 6/2007, pp. 288-290
Es erfolgte in einer vierwchigen Anwendungsuntersuchung eine klinische berprfung der sebamed
TROCKENE HAUT Pflegeprodukte Waschlotion, Pflegelotion, Tagescreme und Nachtcreme bei
Kindern mit atopischem Ekzem anhand von quantitativen Megren, von klinischen Befundurteilen
sowie von qualitativen Beurteilungen der Pflegewirkungen.
Arturo Puig, Josw Maria Garca Antn, Montserrat Mangues A new Decorin-like Tetrapeptide for
Optimal Organization of Collagen Fibers, IFSCC Magazine vol. 10, no 4/2007
Decorin interacts with collagen via its protein core and influences collagen fibrillogenesis, thus
regulating excessive bundle-like aggregation of collagen. As skin ages, there is a lack of functional
decorin which results in disrupted collagen fibers and a reduction in the tensile stregth of the skin.
Therefore, a substitute for decorin would make up for the non-functional decorin that is present as we
age.
Hautpflege fr Diabetiker, www.wohlundwehe.de, page 20
Tglich sieben Einstiche in die Hautoberflche fr Blutzuckermessungen und Injektionen sind bei
insulinabhngigen Diabetikern fr eine gute Zuckereinstellung mindestens notwendig. Wie mag die
Haut nach tausenden von Einstichen aussehen? Diese Frage ging der Kosmetikerin Kerstin
Vlkeining, die das Problem aus vielen Jahren Ttigkeit im Gesundheitswesen kannte, jahrelang nicht
aus dem Kopf.
Christian Oresjo, Margarita Yatskayer, Angelike Galdi, Nathan S. Trookman, et al. Multi-Center,
Clinical Evaluation of a Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Moisturizer Containing a new Photostable
UVA/UVB Complex for Treatment of Photodamaged Facial Skin, www.lorealusa.com; Poster
Photoaging is the result of chronic cumulative exposure to UV radiation. UVB radiation changes
throughout the year and according to location, whreas UVA radiation is less variable. UVA rays are
lower in energy than UVB, however they are twenty times more abundant. Efficient and stable broad
spectrum protection is therefore needed year round for adequate protection against photoaging.
Viele Blender Gesichtscremes mit UV-Schutz. Auf den Lichtschutz in Gesichtscremes kann
man sich oft nicht verlassen. Sieben Produkte sind deshalb mangelhaft und nur drei insgesamt
gut. Test 1/2008, pp. 28 - 31
Eine gute Gesichtscreme soll die Haut in erster Linie mit zustzlicher Feuchtigkeit versorgen, damit
sie frisch, glatt und gesund bleibt. Der Trend geht allerdings dahin, diese Cremes mit
Lichtschutzfiltern anzureichern, um die Haut vor vorzeitiger Alterung und Fltchenbildung zu
schtzen. Ein Ansatz, den viele Hautrzte untersttzen.
Increasing Skin Protection By A Combination Of A Disaccharide With A Vegetable Origin
Fraction; Guglielmini Giancarlo; ifssc Barcelona 2008
Applying on the skin a functional substance containing a relevant amount of polysaccharide, vegetable
origin hydrolyzed proteins and amino acids, takes to a better protection and hydration of the skin,
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because it could permit to restore a normal skin hydration, in particular where a physiological lack of
cutaneous factors is present, such as dry, reddened and stressed skin with tendency to aging.
The novel compound is so able to recreate its natural state of hydration of the skin, so to be considered
an innovative moisturizing and lenitive cosmetic ingredient, particularly suitable for delicate skin and
hair.
Use of Cutometer to Asses Skin Water Content, Daniela BL Terci, Douglas Terci, Diogo Terci,
Adriano Pinheiro, ifscc Barcelona 2008
Assessing the skin water content (skin hydration) is one of the first and most important measurements
to test the efficacy of cosmetics on the skin surface. The quantity of literature worldwide dealing with
this subject indicates the significance of this measurement.
Internal Wool Lipids Rich in Ceramides for Skin Care; Raquel Ramrez, Meritxell Mart, Clara
Barba, Sandra Mndez, Jose Luis Parra; Ifscc Barcelona 2008
Wool is a natural fibre that is mainly made up of protein. It contains external lipids (lanolin) and a
small amount of internal lipids (1.5%). Internal wool lipids (IWL) are rich in cholesterol, free fatty
acids, cholesteryl sulphate and ceramides, and resemble those from membranes of other keratinic
tissues such as human hair or stratum corneum from skin. Intercellular lipids of skin stratum corneum,
mainly ceramides, play an important role in the barrier function of the skin by preventing penetration
of external agents and controlling the transepidermal water loss to maintain the physiological skin
water content. Recent studies have shown that formulations containing lipids that resemble the natural
components of the skin, especially ceramide supplementation, can improve disturbed skin conditions.
Daily Use of a Skin Moisturizer Increases Tactile Perception Mediated by A Fibres; Aurelie
Porcheron, Randa Jdid, Olivier Nageotte, Christiane Guinot, Erwin Tschachler, Frederique Morizot;
Ifscc Barcelona 2008
Je sens donc je suis (I feel so I am) [1]. The touch is one of the five senses which we perceive
through our whole body. Tactile sensations are perceived via the skin by tactile receptors and
transmitted via both fast-conducting myelinated A fibres and unmyelinated C fibres to the central
nervous system [2]. In vivo, tactile sensations have been essentially investigated using psychophysical
methods allowing a qualitative evaluation of touch sensitivity
Variability In The Physical Properties Of The Stratum Corneum Influences Of Chronological
Age And Season.
Stewart Long1, Marie Godfrey, Amandine Desnos, Daniel Whitby, Steven Barton
and Vineeta
Agarwal; Ifscc Barcelona 2008
It is well known that the skin exhibits changes with chronological age. Advances in bioengineering
have now allowed us to study these changes objectively and precisely [1]. In addition, the introduction
of reliable, commercially available skin biophysical measurement devices has led to an increase in
studies dedicated to skin ageing, though often with conflicting results [2-9]. Seasonal variation in skin
condition has also been studied [9-11]. Together, changes caused by age and season may well have an
influence on the effect that a product can exert on the skin, but this is, as yet, unclear. The objective of
the current study was to determine the effects of age and season on skin condition and whether these
factors also influence product efficacy. Here we report the results from the first summer/winter cycle
of an ongoing longitudinal study.
Gender Differences In Skin Condition And Response To Product Use; Stewart Long, Marie
Godfrey, Judata Wibawa and Steven Barton; Ifscc Barcelona 2008
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It is well known that the skin exhibits changes with chronological age and with season. Advances in
bioengineering have now allowed us to objectively and precisely study these changes [1]. In addition,
the introduction of reliable, commercially available devices has led to an increase in the number of
studies assessing skin ageing and condition with season [2-11]. However, the data is often reported on
female skin only. Whilst some research has been undertaken to study gender differences in certain skin
biophysical properties [1215], it is often limited to body sites other than the face. Although the
market for mens skincare products is steadily expanding, there appears to be little published literature
about differences between male and female facial skin and its response to product use in particular.
The objective of the current study was to determine the differences in skin condition of male and
female cheek and forehead skin, in terms of skin hydration, surface lipid levels, transepidermal water
loss, skin stiffness and elasticity, and the response to product use, in order to better develop skincare
formulations for the male skin.
Development of Thermotropic Gel Patch Technology improving skin moisture and resilience
physiochemically : An innovative skin shielding and drug-delivering challenger;
Tae Hwa Jeong1, Kwan Young Jeong1, Sang Keun Han1, Seong Jong Lee1, Seh Hoon Kang1 and
Seong Geun Oh; Ifscc Barcelona 2008
Sol-Gel transition has been vigorousely investigated in various chemical synthesis to manufacture
powders, polymers, and encapsulating materials. Starting from pharmaceutical industries, Sol-Gel
transition and its applications have been focused to enhance the time-releasing patterns of drugs such
as insulin and to maintain their effective periods much longer than conventional methods. Therefore,
many researchers in pharmaceutical fields have paid their attention to develop bio-compatible
polymers which show Sol-Gel transitions to be transformed nearby humans body
temperature, as well as bio-degradable ones.
Development of a noble solid lipid emulsion technology using silicone-based waxes and its
cosmetic applications improving instant skin resilience and skin protection. Sang Jun Kim1, Tae
Hwa Jeong1, Eun Ah Ko1, Seh Hoon Kang1, Kwan Young Jeong1, Sang-Keun Han1, Seong Jong
Lee1 and Seong Geun Oh; Ifscc Barcelona 2008
Recently, women make more effort for their beauty. Because the entry of women in public affairs have
been extended. And their appearances can affect to their social images. Moreover, many of skin
problems are caused by the stress of social activities and the environmental problems. Especially, the
problems with skin aging are appeared a lot by the increase in UV exposure. In these situations, many
cosmetics for anti-aging are gaining popularity. The wax formulations of cosmetic are effective on
skin protection and moisturization.
In Vivo Assessment Of Ectoin: A Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Trial;
Heinrich U, Garbe B, Tronnier H.; Ifscc Barcelona 2008;
The objective of this study was to determine the anti-aging properties of Ectoin with special regard to
its compatibility and efficacy. For this purpose 104 voluntary female participants were included in a
monocentric, randomized, double-blind application test. Moisturizing properties, skin surface structure
and skin elasticity were tested, comparing Ectoin (2 %: Treatment B) to a reference emulsion
(Treatment A) versus an untreated control. None of all treated participants showed side effects during
the study.The gained results of this study display that the natural cell protection concept of Ectoin is
transferable to skin care
Efficacy evaluation and characterization of chitosan nano emulsions with Spirulina hydro-
glycolic extract; del Pozo A1, Solans M1, Fernandez C1, Dolz M2, Corrias F3, Herrez M3; Ifscc
Barcelone 2008
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Nanoemulsions represent an interesting prospect for use as vehicles in the development of
formulations to deliver active ingredients to the human body. Particularly, nanoemulsion formulations
have been shown to be superior for transdermal and dermal delivery of hydrophilic and lipophlic
compounds, compared to conventional vehicles, such as hydrogels and emulsions. Lecithins
(phosphatidylcholines) have been used in several studies as surfactants for topical nanoemulsion
vehicles. These surfactants are able to form nanoemulsions without cosurfactants. In this context, less
surfactant is associated with lesser irritation
Study of the Inter-Relations between Skin Surface Parameters, Hydration, Sebum and pH
Marta O. Ferreira, M. Helena Amaral, Paulo C. Costa, M. Fernanda Bahia; Ifscc Barcelona 2008
Skin is the bodys largest organ and constitutes a formidable physical barrier that protects us from the
environment [1]. Several biophysical techniques are commonly used to study the skin properties and
to measure the in vivo skin effects of cosmetics, topical medicaments and chemical irritants [2,3]. The
Corneometer (a capacitance method) measures skin hydration, the Sebumeter (a photometric
method) measures the sebum of the skin and the Skin-pHMeter (a potenciometric method) measures
the pH of the skin [4]. The Visioscan VC98 connected to the software SELS (Surface Evaluation of
the Living Skin) can measure several skin surface parameters [5]. This apparatus consists of a special
b/w video sensor chip with very high resolution, an objective and an UVA-light source.
Development of the skin analogue liquid crystal in non-aqueous condition and its cosmetic
application to improving atopic dermatitis : An innovative atopy care; Kwan Young Jeong1, Jung
Hyun Choi1, Yun Ji Lee1, Tae Hwa Jeong1, and Dong Kyu Lee2; Ifscc Barcelona 2008
Atopic dermatitis(AD) has been issued as a serious disease and the prevalence of atopic dermatitis has
been rising progressively in developed countries since the 1940's. However, the reason is not
enough to explain the increasing prevalence of atopic dermatitis, and some researchers suggest that
there must be crucial factors in the expression of the disease like environmentals and allergics.[5]
According to recent studies, the damage of skin barrier has beeen reported as one of the main reasons
which cause atopic dermatitis.
Studies of Ceramide Lotion on M oisture of Skin; Keh-Feng Huang, Edward Tsai, Daniel Chang-
Chin Kwan, Yu-Fang Chen, Kuan-Chin Chen, Ming-Fu Wang, Ifscc Barcelona 2008
Stratum corneum intercellular lipids such as ceramides play an important role in the regulation of skin
water barrier homeostasis and water-holding capacity. The aim of the present study was to evaluate
the potential water retension capacity of an oil-in-water emulsion containing ceramide.
Stability and Clinical Efficacy of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Different Peptides;
Glasiela Lemos Anconi, Patrcia Maria Berardo Gonalves Maia Campos; Ifscc Barcelona 2008
Wrinkles, as a sign of skin aging, have an important social impact, especially because of longer
lifetimes and more frequent social relationships; consequently, they are an important factor
influencing our way of communication. Wrinkles represent the more evident outcome of cutaneous
ageing. Their onset is linked to a variety of events, resulting from both chrono- and photoageing. Both
intrinsic (hormones, racial and genetic factors, oxidative stress, systemic disease) and extrinsic
(temperature, air pollution, smoke, alcohol) factors worsen skin condition. However, wrinkles deriving
from skin texture, or micro-relief, modification afflict women more than all other wrinkles
as signs of ageing in the common mind.
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Biomimetic Liquid Crystals as Skin Barrier Restructuring Agents; Alain Thibodeau; Ifscc
Barcelona 2008;
The main roles of the skin are: protection from UV radiation (melanogenesis), immune defense and a
barrier function preventing the penetration of foreign particles. Perhaps of greater importance, skin is
dynamically involved in the management of internal water levels [1]. As an example of its
interconnection with internal organs, it is interestingly to note that the skin is the site for the
photoproduction of vitamin D that will be distributed through all the body, and also the site of
cutaneous distribution of vitamin E (through sebum secretion) obtained from nutrition. The stratum
corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the epidermis
A new and sensitive method to assess the NMF content of Stratum Corneum in vivo - Evaluation
of a topical moisturizing product; S Sisalli1, N Voisin, F Venturoli, A Adao, S Gardinier, M Isoir, J
Jacqueline-Bessire, D Mougin.; Ifscc Barcelona 2008
As far as the existence of the Natural Moisturizing Factor has been known, the need for in vivo and
non invasive methods to evaluate the NMF content
has been required. The purpose of this paper is to
present a new method for the analysis of some NMF compounds sampled by tape stripping.
This method allows the simultaneous determination of 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylique acid (PCA) and
of the 3 main amino acids of the NMF : SERine, GLYcine and ALAnine. It also allows, in the same
time, the determination of glycerol (GOL) content, which was recently underlined as an important
component in the understanding of cutaneous hydration .
Advanced Glycation End Products Crosslinks Breaker: A New Approach for Improvement of
Aged Skin; Akihiro Tada, Akiko Kanamaru, Midori Oyobikawa, Tetsuo Maeda, Hiroshi Oshima;
Ifscc Barcelona 2008
The reaction between proteins and glucose was first reported by Maillard [1], who observed, while
cooking food, glucose and other reducing sugars reacting with protein amino acids to form adducts
that after dehydration and rearrangement became stable brown pigments. This reaction between
reducing sugar and proteins has been named non-enzymatic glycation. These glycation products
undergo further complex reactions to become irreversibly cross-linked, forming a broad range of
heterogeneous fluorescent and yellow-brown products called advanced glycation end products
(AGEs).
Biotechnological Process For The Synthesis Of Omega 9 Compound For Enhancement Of Anti-
elastase Activity With Firmness And Restructuring Efficacy; Lucie Couturier, Florent Yvergnaux ;
Ifscc Barcelona 2008
Inhibition of human neutrophile elastase is an important target due to the enzymes involvement in
tissue destruction of a number of skin disease states [1]. Elastase itself cleaves collagens, as well as
elastin and other proteins with important biological functions. A variety of different types of inhibitors
and inhibitor formulations have been devised for treatment of these targets [2,3]. Oleic acid is a highly
selective non-toxic inhibitor of elastase. To enhance the vectorization of Omega 9 into the skin,
especially in the dermis where elastase acts, Omega 9 type compound has been synthesised through a
biotechnological process, miming a structural lipid analogue of the skin.
New approach to a non-invasive visualization of whitening effects in UV-induced pigmentation
using In vivo reflectance confocal microscopy; GW Nam, EJ Kim, HK Lee, SM AHN, SH Kim, SJ
Moon and IS Chang; Ifscc Barcelona 2008
Hyperpigmentation on face is a highly anxiety-producing symptom, especially for women from the
aspect of beauty. Pigmentation of the skin is related to the amount of melanin that provides protection
against UV radiation. In vivo reflectance confocal microscopy is a non-invasive imaging tool allowing
visualization of the skin without tissue alteration, by placing a microscopy directly on the living skin.
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156
Serine Proteases, Skin Function and Homeostasis; Rainer Voegeli1, Anthony V Rawlings2, Joachim
W Fluhr3, Stephan Doppler1, Thomas Schreier; Ifscc Barcelona 2008
Several proteases were shown to be present in the epidermis and especially in the stratum corneum
(SC). Among these enzymes the serine proteases have a wide spectrum of specificities and functions
and play important roles in numerous physiological and pathological processes [1]. In skin they are
involved in epidermal proliferation, differentiation, lipid barrier homeostasis and tissue remodeling.
Most importantly, kallikreins, together with other enzymes, are involved in the proteolysis of
corneodesmosomal proteins, a crucial event prior to desquamation [2].
The alkaline pH-adapted skin barrier is disrupted severely by SLS-induced irritation; Eunjoo
Kim, Seunghun Kim, Haekwang Lee, Seongjoon Moon, Ihseop Chang; Ifscc Barcelona 2008
Human stratum corneum is a multilayer barrier composed of corneocytes and specialized intercellular
lipids rendering the skin poorly permeable to water and other polar compounds. The horny layer
assists in maintain a constant internal milieu with a pH of 7.4 in viable epidermis that contrasts with
the pH of 4-6 found on most parts of human skin[1].
The acid mantle of the stratum corneum first described by Schade & Marchionini in 1928[2], was
originally thought of as a thin film composed of fatty acids, amino acids, and other organic acids
deposited on the skin surface.
Bi-Functional Study of Ion Calcium in the Skin
Silvia H.Prez Damonte1, Claudia Liliana Selem, Claudia Groisman; Ifscc Barcelona 2008
The Calcium ion has an important function in the skin. Its gradient plays a role in regulating epidermal
growth and differentiation in-vivo. In the intact epidermis, the extra cellular calcium content is low in
both, malpighi and spinosum strata, but increases from the inner to the outer layer of the stratum
granulosum [1]. Also, the calcium ion participates in the formation of the epidermal desmosomes,
fibroblasts and keratinocytes, which provide the integrity and firmness of the skin [2]. All of these
factors are important for the correct function of the epidermal barrier.
Safety Assessment for Nickel in Cosmetics; Silvia H Prez Damonte; Ana Maria Martn; Marta Edit
Daraio ; Ifscc Barcelona 2008
Many environmental chemicals produce contact hypersensitivity or local inflammatory responses in
the skin. Nickel released from metal objects is well known as a sensitizing agent in humans. Since the
initial damage caused by nickel remains to be the leading cause of skin disorders such as allergic
contact dermatitis worldwide, the aim of this study is to investigate if the content of nickel in
cosmetics could produce such reactions.
Clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing Myrtus communis extract; Patricia M. B. G.
Maia Campos; Flavio Bueno de Camargo Junior; Sabrina M. Bertucci; Emeline Esteves de Oliveira;
Glasiela Lemos Anconi; Lorena Rigo Gaspa; Ifscc Barcelona 2008
The Research & Development of cosmetic products that are able to act in skin ageing alterations has
been a challenge in Cosmetic area. This way, a great number of botanical extracts have been proposed
as active ingredients for anti-ageing cosmetic development. Myrtus communis is a plant rich in
polysaccharides, essential oils, flavonoids, among other substances. Some studies showed that its
different hydroalcoholic extracts have a potent antioxidant activity mainly due to the presence of
polyphenols Myrtus communis leaves hydrolyzed extract has been proposed as cosmetic ingredient
with anti-ageing properties because it is rich in galacturonic acid, ramnose, galactose, glucose, xylose
and fructose .
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157
Effect of an acute psychological stress on sebum assessed by SKINSPACE Sorbent Tape method
S Sisalli, N Voisin, A Adao, M Lebel, D Mougin. Parfums et Beaut, Sophia Antipolis ; Ifscc
Barcelona 2008
Responsible for skin shininess and enlarged pores, the excess of sebum could cause inconveniences at
all ages of a woman life. Among other biological and environmental factors, the stress is often
mentionned as a parameter influencing the sebum hyperproduction. As the data available in litterature
are mainly related to young people suffering from acne, the objective of the present study is to
evaluate the impact of an acute psychological stress on sebum secretion of 18 female volunteers, with
healthy and normal skin, from 18 to 65 years old.
Clinical and Instrumental Evaluation of the Facial Photoageing on Indian Women; Catherine
Heusle1, Caroline Derome2, Deepa Kanchankoti3, Rashmikant Mohile3, Armand Bernois1,
Sylvianne Schnebert; Ifscc Barcelona 2008
Daily exposure to the sun leads to skin photodamage. Clinical signs of photoageing due to biological
and structural alteration of the epidermis and dermis will be function of level of UV exposure and
individual protection capacities. The influence of ethnic origin on skin structure and function is more
and more investigated but few instrumental or clinical studies describe the characteristics of healthy
skin and their evolution with age on Indian women living in India [1]. Previous clinical, instrumental
or biological studies were carried on Indian subjects living in South Africa or England.
Anti-acne activity of Thyme oil and its applications for cosmeceutical acne care: An innovative
Anti-acne challenger; Ha Hyun Jo1, Chang Gyu Han1, Kwan Young Jeong1, Jang Su Kim1, Byeong
Jun Park1, Ifscc Barcelona 2008
The skin disease which acne occurs in papule, pustule, cystoma and tuber for teenagers and young
generation. The origin of acne takes part in various factors. The main factors are 1) increased Sebum
2) cornification of sebaceous glands 3) Propionibacterium 4) inflammation.
The Potential Anti-aging Properties of Prunella vulgaris Extract In Vitro and In Vivo; Eun Suk
Hong, Gi Woong Ahn, and Byoung Kee Jo, Ifscc Barcelona 2008
The dried Prunella vulgaris (self-heal) is one of the popular traditional herbal medicines in some Asian
countries, and has been used extensively for the treatment of robustness, hyperpiesis, uteritis, goiter
and so on[1-5]. The aim of this study was to examine various anti-wrinkle activities of Prunella
vulgaris extract such as the activation of collagen synthesis, inhibition of collagenase synthesis,
inhibition of elastase activity and anti-oxidative activities in vitro. And we were also interested in
investigating the effect of this Prunella vulgaris on the skin's surface in a double-blind clinical study.
Assessment of Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and Comparison Between Equipments;
Silva VRL1,2,3, Schulman MA1, Gimenis JM1,2, Baby AR3, Ferelli C1, Taqueda MES3, Velasco
MVR3, Kaneko TM3. 1 ISIC Clinical Research Institute, Brazil; 2 University Anhembi Morumbi,
Brazil; 3 Department of Pharmacy, School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of So Paulo
(FCF-USP), Brazil, Ifscc Barcelona 2008
Moisturizers are used on large body surfaces to maintain the smoothness of the skin. It is well known
moisturizers can increase stratum corneum hydration by occlusion of the skin surface or by water-
attracting properties. This study presents a discussion of different equipments, Tewameter,
(Courage&Khazaka) and Vapometer (Delfin) after treatment with different moisture substances to
evaluate the transepidermal water loss.
Relevance of Lipid Self-Assembly in Nanostructures on the Skin Properties; Lucyanna Barbosa-
Barros, Clara Barba, Luisa Coderch, Alfons de la Maza and Olga Lpez. Departament de Tecnologia
de Tensioactius, I.I.Q.A.B.-C.S.I.C. Barcelona, Spain, Ifscc Barcelona 2008
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Phospholipid systems show high morphological diversity as a function of its structure and composition
[1]. This fact plays an important role in the applications of aggregates such as micelles, bicelles and
vesicles, which are extendedly used in skin research [2]. Thus, investigations that help clarifying the
relation of structural parameters with the effect of the phospholipid aggregates in the skin are needed.
Liposomes and micelles have often been used for skin treatment [3-4], although their application is
debated due to some aspects. Liposomes seem to be too large to penetrate into the narrow interlamellar
spaces of stratum corneum (SC) lipids [5]. Concerning to the micelles, the usual presence of surfactant
in their composition supposes a problem due to the well known irritating effect of these solubilising
agents on the skin [6]. In this line, the use of bicelles (discoidal micelles constituted by phospholipids)
for skin treatment may report advantages comparing to the use of liposomes and micelles: the size of
bicelles is small enough for passing through the SC lipid lamellae and their composition consists
exclusively of lipids.
Evaluation of the Safety and Efficacy of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Saccharomyces
cerevisae Extract and Vitamins; Lorena R. Gaspar, Flavio B. de Camargo Jr, Mirela D. Gianeti,
Patrcia M. B. G. Maia Campos *
*Universidade de So Paulo - Faculdade de Cincias Farmacuticas de Ribeiro Preto.
Ifscc Barcelona 2008
There are many substances frequently used in anti-aging products due to their moisturizing, photoprotective and
skin barrier effects and among them we can point out vitamin A, C and E derivatives.
Vitamin A palmitate acts on epithelization and on abnormal keratinization [1]. Vitamin E acetate is a free radical
scavenger and can reduce DNA damage and keratinocytes death (sunburn cell formation) [2,3] and also can
enhance stratum corneum hydration and reduce skin roughness [4]. Tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP)
releases vitamin C in physiological conditions and enhances cellular tolerance against UVB and reactive oxygen
species as well as reduces the production of interleukin-1a and prostaglandin E2 [5].
Protective Effects Of Turmerones From Curcuma Longa Against UVB-Induced Oxidative Stress
Upregulation Of Cellular Defence Systems; Michael Wegmann1, Peter Lersch1, Hans Henning
Wenk1, Saskia K. Klee1, Ursula Maczkiewitz1 Mike Farwick1. Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH. Essen.
Germany1.
The human epidermis represents the largest interface of the body that is constantly in close contact to
the environment. Therefore, it is especially vulnerable to oxidative stress, which in turn leads to
oxidation of cellular macromolecules such as proteins, lipids and nucleic acids. In order to counteract
these harmful effects and consequently ensure the redox status of the cell, a plethora of defence
mechanisms exists. Fuelled by new research, activities and expression of enzymes of the anti-oxidative
defence line is better understood. Two major players during aging and anti-oxidative stress
mechanisms are the thiol redox systems driven by gluthathione peroxidase (GPX1) and thioredoxin
reductase (TXNRD1) [1]. Both systems require redox equivalent in the form of NADPH to restore
their full anti-oxidative potential [2,3]. This in-turn is generated by another enzyme named NAD(P)H
dehydrogenase (NQO1) that generates NADPH from oxidized NADP+ by consuming ATP [4]. While
the thioredoxin and the glutathione systems neutralize harmful products emerging from the oxidation
and peroxidation of bio-macromolecules the defense of reactive oxygen species (ROS) such as
hydrogen peroxide which are responsible for most of the oxidative stress on cells exposed for example
to UV-irradiation depend on the catalase system. This enzyme eliminates hydrogen peroxide by
catalyzing its decomposition to water and oxygene [5].
Harald van der Hoeven, Sabrina John, Petra A. Schmidt; Verbesserung des Hydrationsniveaus der
Haut durch natrlichen Moisturizer; Euro Cosmetics 9-2008, S.16-18
Ein ausreichendes Hydrationsniveau ist unabdingbar fr die Funktionalitt des Stratum Corneum (SC).
Die Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF) sind fr die Aufrechterhaltung eines entsprechenden
Hydrationsniveaus im SC von grter Wichtigkeit. Die Entwicklung von kosmetischen Wirkstoffen,
die sowohl fr eine ausreichende, als auch lang anhaltende Konzentration von NMF in der Haut
sorgen, stellt heute eine groe Herausforderung dar.
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159
Ein neuentwickelter natrlicher Moisturizer DayMoist CLR erhht aufgrund der enthaltenen
hygroskopischen Molekle, welche den natrlichen Feuchtigkeitsfaktoren der Haut hneln, die
Hydration der Haut; ein Effekt, der sich sowohl durch die Konfokale Raman-Mikrospektroskopie, als
auch durch die konventionelle Methodik der Corneometer-Messung besttigen lsst.
Parastoo Davari, MD, Farzam Gorouhi, MD, Sirous Jafarian, MD, Yahaya Dowlati, MD, PhD, and
Alireza Firooz, MD; A randomized investigator-blind trial of different passes of
microdermabrasion therapy and their effects on skin biophysical characteristics; International
Journal of Dermatology 2008, 47, S. 508-513
Microdermabrasion (MDA) was developed in 1980s, and rapidly became a popular modality in
superficial skin resurfacing. Its safety, simplicity, no need for anesthesia, prompt recovery and modest
equipment costs hold a wide appeal for both physicians and patients. This non-invasive mechanical
technique is used in management of fine rhytides, mottled pigmentation, clogged pores, acne, acne
scars, and stretch marks.
Hagen Tronnier, Mathilde Wiebusch, Ulrike Heinrich; Skin-Physiological Test in Weightlessness in the
ISS Space Station; IFSCC Magazine vol. 11, no 3/2008
A prolonged stay in weightlessness includes several medical alterations of the human body and also
results in impairment of the skin. The stratum corneum, epidermal barrier as welle as other skin
compartments are affected in terms of their susceptibility to dryness, desquamation and pruritus. This
can lead, for example, to wound healing disorders. Skin physiological tests were performed on the skin
of an astronaut during and after the the ASTROLAB-Mission within the Skin Care program initiated
by the ESA.
Judith A Tunggal
1, 6
, Iris Helfrich
1, 6
, Annika Schmitz
1
, Heinz Schwarz
2
, Dorothee Gnzel
3
,
Michael Fromm
3
, Rolf Kemler
4
, Thomas Krieg
1, 5
and Carien M Niessen
1
; E-cadherin is essential for
in vivo epidermal barrier function by regulating tight junctions; The EMBO Journal - Vol. 24, No.
6/2005, S. 1146-1156
Cadherin adhesion molecules are key determinants of morphogenesis and tissue architecture.
Nevertheless, the molecular mechanisms responsible for the morphogenetic contributions of cadherins
remain poorly understood in vivo. Besides supporting cellcell adhesion, cadherins can affect a wide
range of cellular functions that include activation of cell signalling pathways, regulation of the
cytoskeleton and control of cell polarity. To determine the role of E-cadherin in stratified epithelium
of the epidermis, we have conditionally inactivated its gene in mice. Here we show that loss of E-
cadherin in the epidermis in vivo results in perinatal death of mice due to the inability to retain a
functional epidermal water barrier.
Pascale Quatresooz, Jean-Francois Hermanns,Trinh Hermanns-LE, Grald E. Pierard, Jean-Luc
Nizet ; Laddering melanotic pattern of Langer's lines in skin of colour; European journal of
dermatology 2008-Aug; vol 18 (issue 5)
Mechanobiological stimulation of the skin influences the melanocyte activity. The clinical impact on
melanocytes can be perceived by dermoscopy. Our aim was to assess the orientation of Langer's lines
using the combination of ultrasound shear wave propagation and dermoscopy in 70 adults of darker
skin complexion. On the back, 44/70 patients showed a honeycomb melanotic pattern without any
main orientation. By contrast, a streaky parallel pattern of melanotic lines oriented in the direction of
Langer's lines was found in 26/70 patients. Indeed, the maximum speed of ultrasound propagation was
found parallel to the main orientation of the laddering melanotic pattern. The parallel melanotic pattern
probably reflects the main orientation of the epidermal rete ridges aligned in the direction of Langer's
lines. This aspect could be ascribed to the deepening of these structures and/or to mechanobiology
H\litlist\studies 12/06
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affecting melanocytes. The aspect is reminiscent of that previously described in striae distensae and
atrophic scars.
H. Tronnier, M. Wiebusch, U. Heinrich; Change in Skin Physiological Parameters in Space -
Report on and Results of the First Study on Man; Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2008;21: S.283-292
Astronauts often show skin reactions in space. Systematic tests, e.g. with noninvasive skin
physiological test methods, have not yet been done. In an interdisciplinary cooperation, a test series
with skin physiological measurements was carried out before, during and after a long-term mission in
the International Space Station. The hydration of the stratum corneum (Corneometer), transepidermal
water loss (Tewameter), and the surface structure of the skin (SkinVisiometer) were measured. In
order to record cutaneous states, the suction elasticity was measured (Cutometer), and an ultrasound
measurement with 20 MHz (DermaScan) was also made. In addition, one measuring field of the two
inner forearms was treated with a skin care emulsion. There were indications of a delayed epidermal
proliferation of the cells, which would correspond to the clinical symptoms. Hydration and TEWL
values are improved by respective skin care. On the cutaneous level, the elasticity measurements and
the ultrasound picture showed results which correspond to a significant loss of elasticity of the skin.
Further examinations are necessary to validate these preliminary results.
Elisabetta Esposito, Markus Drechsler, Roberta Bozzini, Leda Montesi, Rita Cortesi;
Topical formulations for skin hydration; Household and Personal Care Today n 2/2008, S.6-10
The design and comparison of innovative topical formulation for skin hydration are here reported.
Different Nanoparticulate systems, namely cubosomes, nanovesicles, solid lipid nanoparticles and
liposomes, have been produced and characterized by morphology and size distribution. Hydration
power has been studied using a corneometer, measuring the skin electrical capacitance before and after
the application of viscosized nanoparticulate systems. It has been demonstrated that nanovesicle gel
displayed a pronounced hydration power with respect to the others nanostructured formulations, its
hydration effecton skin was 3.5 fold higher after 5min from the application and 1.5 fold higher after 2
hours.
Harald van der Hoeven, Sabrina John; Elevating stratum corneums level of hydration with a
natural moisturizer; Household and Personal Care Today n3/2008, S.10-12;
The presence of sufficient amounts of water is crucial for normal functioning of the Stratum Corneum
(SC). The Natural Moisturizing Factors play an enormously important role in maintaining a sufficient
level of hydration in the SC. Keeping a sufficient concentration of NMF by applying cosmetic
formulation onto the skin poses the cosmetic chemist to a great challenge. A new natural moisturizer
containing molecules resembling the NMF wich are naturally present in human skin (BVHC Complex)
has shown to be able to elevate the concentration of the NMF after 24 hours of application
significantly with Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy, which showed interesting correlation with the
results obtained with corneometry.
M. Paye, S. Mac-Mary, A. Elkhyat, C. Tarrit, P. Mermet, P.H. Humbert; Use of the Reviscometer for
measuring cosmetics-induced skin surface effects; Skin Research and Technology 2007; 13; pp.
343-349
The Reviscometer RVM 600 that measures resonance running time (RRT) has been shown to be
inversely related to the skin stiffness. However, very few publications describe the use of this
instrument for testing the effect of cosmetic products. Slight xerotic skin condition was induced by
usind an alkaline soap for 1 week. Skin has then been rehydrated with a lotion or further dehydrated
and dried with sodium lauryl sulfate.
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Martha Tilaar, Wong Lip Wih, Anna S. Ranti, S.M. Wasitaatmadja; Punica granatum properties
examined; Personal Care, September 2008, pp. 27 29;
Natural cosmetic ingredients have shown tremendous growth in recent years, and studies have been
conducted on botanical extracts for cosmetic use. Several aspects should be considered when utilising
botanical materials in cosmetics such as the quality of the plant materials, processes, biological
activity and safety. Looked for in a study was a natural ingredient potentially having multifunctional
properties for cosmetic use. Used were Punica granatum L. fruit obtained from a community
plantation on a Javanese island. A taxonomical study was conducted by literature.
Jrgen Lademann, Joachim Fluhr; This Issue at a Glance: Skin Reactions of Astronauts in Space
and Microstructures of Topically Applied Formulations; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology
2008; 21:245;
The analysis and characterization of the properties of human skin under natural conditions and under
topical treatment on Earth is a topic of comprehensive investigation. In the present issue, it is
demonstrated that there is also a skin physiology outside the Earth in the universe. Tronnier et al.
Investigated the changes in skin physiological parameters in space. Astronauts often show skin
reactions. In an interdisciplinary cooperation, a test series with skin physiological measurements was
carried out before, during and after a long-term mission at the International Space station.
David Boudier, Catherine Lenaers, Claire Sabbadini, Delphine Creel, Brigitte Closs-Silab;
Development of certified organic actives; Personal Care, September 2008; pp. 35-37
Nowadays, consumers are more conscious than ever before of what they put on their skin. They
demant authenticity from natural/organic brands, scrutinising product labels and favouring products
that meet certification standards. For over 20 years, independent company Silab has introduced natural
active ingredients to the cosmetic industry. In order to meet market expectations and by applying its
expertise in the natural area, Silab now has launched three certified organic active ingredients
covering the main aspects of anti-ageing products: an immediate tensor, a hydrating ingredient and an
anti-wrinkle active ingredient.
T. Andr, M. De Wan, P. Lefvre, J.-L. Thonnard ; Moisture Evaluator: a direct measure of
fingertip skin hydration during object manipulation; Skin Research and Technology 2008; 14,
S.385-389
The mechanical properties of the fingertip skin are very important when studying dexterous
manipulation. These properties are strongly influenced by the level of skin hydration. Currently, there
is no device capable of measuring skin moisture during object manipulation. Methods: Skin moisture
levels during object manipulation were measured using the Moisture Evaluator, a probe consisting of
gold-covered electrodes connected to a resistor-capacitor circuit. In vivo calibration was performed by
comparison with measurements obtained using a Corneometer
. Conclusion: A new device for evaluating skin moisture at the fingertip has been
designed and validated.
Kristien De Paepe
1
, Evelien De Rop
1
, Evi Houben
1
, Ralf Adam
2
and Vera Rogiers
1
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162
1
Department of Toxicology, Dermato-Cosmetology and Pharmacognosy, Vrije Universiteit Brussel
(VUB), Brussels, Belgium and
2
Procter & Gamble, Schwalbach am Taunus, Germany
Effects of lotioned disposable handkerchiefs on skin barrier recovery after tape stripping; Skin
Research and Technology 2008 ; 14, S.440-447
Background/purpose: In the present work, it was studied whether repeated use of lotioned disposable
handkerchiefs on tape-stripped forearm skin was able to improve skin barrier recovery.
Methods: Skin assessments included scoring of visual erythema and dryness/scaliness; and measuring
of skin redness (Chromameter
).
Results: The three-day lasting protocol revealed that handkerchief wiping itself delayed skin recovery,
but a significantly better performance was seen for the lotioned handkerchiefs containing fatty
alcohols and mineral oils. This shows that the use of lotioned tissues helps to prevent skin damage
inevitably caused by the wiping process.
Conclusion: The controlled pre-damaged forearm method with tape stripping appears to be a suitable
model to study the effects of repetitive wiping on irritated skin with disposable handkerchiefs of
different quality. More specifically, the model seems applicable to mimic the nasolabial skin damage
observed during a common cold associated with frequent use of disposable handkerchiefs.
Frank Gafner, Kuno Schweikert, Giogio DellAcqua; Oat-Based Complex Stimulates Skin Barrier
Protein Synthesis and Reduces Skin Aging; IFSCC Magazine vol. 11, no3/2008
Epidermal differentiation is crucial to guarantee a physiological confication process. The cornified
envelope is the final skin barrier which protects against external aggressions such as UV light and
reduces water loss. Skin aging is associated with decreased functionality of this barrier and reduced
epidermal differentiation. We present a new bioactive complex for the stimulation of protein synthesis
associated with cornified envelope and markers of epidermal differentiation. Composed of a
hydrolysed oat protein extract and particularly rich in glutamine and glutamic acid combined with
ATP and niacinamide, 1% of this complex increases significantly the synthesis of proteins such as
filagrin, late envelope protein and small proline-rich proteins, all markers of epidermal differentiation,
in a reconstituted human skin model as measured by DNA array chip analysis, reverse transcription-
polymerase chain reaction and immunohistochemistry.
Harald van der Hoeven, Sabrina John CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH,
Germany; Elevating NMF concentration with a natural moisturiser; Personal Care, Sep. 2008,
S.81-83
For any living organism, presence of water at the sites where it is essential for normal functioning is
crucial for survival. The outer layer of the skin provides a typical example of the human body
preserving water at an essential site (in close proximity to a dry environment). It is therefore
understandable that control of the presence of water is one of the fundamental properties of the skin.
Water in the stratum corneum as related to dry skin: The topmost layer of the skin, the stratum
corneum (SC) consists of cornified cells (corneocytes) embedded in a complex and lamellarly well-
organised mixture of non-polar lipids. Water in the SC is present in the corneocytes and very
minimally in the intercellular regions.
Hagen Tronnier, Mathilde Wiebusch, Ulrike Heinrich; First Skin-Physiological Tests in
Weightlessness in the ISS Space Station; IFSCC Magazin vol. 11, no 3/2008
A prolonged stay in weightlessness induces several medical alterations of the human body and also
results in impairment of the skin. The stratum corneum, epidermal barrier as well as other skin
H\litlist\studies 12/06
163
compartments are affected in terms of their susceptibility to dryness, desquamation and pruritus. This
can lead, for example, to wound healing disorders. Skin physiological tests were performed on the skin
of an astronaut during the ASTROLAB-Mission within the Skin Care program initiated by the ESA.
The skin was analysed before, partly during and after the mission. In addition, the tests were repeated
after one year.
Dr. Karl-Heinz Schrader; Cremes auf dem Prfstand, Beauty Forum 09/2008, S. 100-102
Ob Anti-Aging oder UV-Schutz: Kosmetische Mittel sollten gut vertrglich sein und eine Wikung
haben. Beides sollte am Bestimmungsort der Kosmetika auf Haut, Haaren etc. auch nachweisbar
sein. In modernen Speziallabors wird daher geprft, was Cremes und Co tatschlich leisten.
Die fertigen Produkte werden In-vivo-Tests unterzogen, also am lebendigen Organismus auf ihre
Wirksamkeit geprft. Generell unterscheidet man dabei subjektive und objektive Prfungen. Wird
beispielsweise die Wirkung einer Anti-Aging-Creme untersucht, dienen subjektive Anwendungstests
dazu, die sensorische Beurteilung und die Hautvertrglichkeit zu prfen. Mit objektiven Messungen
werden dagegen z.B. die Wasserretention und das Hautoberflchenprofil bestimmt, der
Sonnenschutzfaktor geprft und das antioxidative Potenzial des Produkts ermittelt.
BASF Beauty Care Solutions; Lyslastine, the face designer; Cosmetics & Toiletries 9/2008, vol.123,
no 9;
Major discoveries about elastin.
Elastin naturally brings to mind the skins youthful appearance and level of elasticity, both of which
are symbolic values that make this molecule a choice ingredient in anti-age strategies.
Nevertheless, the real scientific aspects of elastin are surprisingly not very well known including
information about its structure, its function, and aging process.
Dermatronnier: H. Tronnier, M. Wiebusch, U. Heinrich; Project Skin Care of the European Long-
Term Mission (ASTROLAB) on the ISS; Poster ISS (Posterpreis)
Introduction: Impairments due to circulatory and vestibular disturbances of the equilibrium are the
prevalent medical side effects astronauts suffer from. These are followed by the dermatological
problems. In order to examine these skin problems and find ways to prevent them, skin-physiological
measurements as a project Skin Care were carried out within the framework of the European long-
term mission (ASTROLAB) 2005 2007.
David Boudier, Catherine Lenaers, Claire Sabbadini, Delphine Creel, Brigitte Closs Silab, France;
Development of certified organic actives; Personal Care 9/2005; S.35-38;
Nowadays, consumers are more conscious than ever before of what they put on their skin. They
demand authenticity from natural/organic brands, scrutinising product labels and favouring products
that meet certification standards.1 For over 20 years, independent company Silab has introduced
natural active ingredients to the cosmetics industry. In order to meet market expectations and by
applying its expertise in the natural area, Silab now has launched three certified organic active
ingredients covering the main aspects of anti-ageing products: an immediate tensor, a hydrating
ingredient and an anti-wrinkle active ingredient.
del Pozo A
1
, Solans M
1
, Fernandez C
1
, Dolz M
2
, Corrias F
3
, Herrez M
3
, Diez-Sales O.; Efficacy
evaluation and characterization of chitosan nanoemulsions with Spirulina hydro-glycolic
extract; Ifscc Barcelona 2008 (Poster)
Nanoemulsions represent an interesting prospect for use as vehicles in the development of
formulations to deliver active ingredients to the human body. Particularly, nanoemulsion formulations
have been shown to be superior for transdermal and dermal delivery of hydrophilic and lipophlic
H\litlist\studies 12/06
164
compounds, compared to conventional vehicles, such as hydrogels and emulsions [1]. Lecithins
(phosphatidylcholines) have been used in several studies as surfactants for topical nanoemulsion
vehicles. These surfactants are able to form nanoemulsions without co-surfactants.
T. Andre, M. De Wan, P. Lefvre, J.-L. Thonnard; Moisture Evaluator: a direct measure of
fingertip skin hydration during object; Skin Research & Technology 2008; 14: S. 385-389
Background/purpose: The mechanical properties of the fingertip skin are very important when studying
dexterous manipulation. These properties are strongly influenced by the level of skin hydration.
Currently, there is no device capable of measuring skin moisture during object manipulation.
Methods: Skin moisture levels during object manipulation were measured using the Moisture
Evaluator, a probe consisting of gold-covered electrodes connected to a resistor-capacitor circuit. In
vivo calibration was performed by comparison with measurements obtained using a Corneometer
at
two normal force levels (0.2 and 2 N).
Results: Measurements from the Moisture Evaluator were well correlated with those from the
Corneometer
.
Conclusion: A new device for evaluating skin moisture at the fingertip has been designed and
validated.
De Paepe, Kristien; De Rop, Evelien; Houben, Evi; Adam, Ralf; Rogiers, Vera ; Effects of lotioned
disposable handkerchiefs on skin barrier recovery after tape stripping; Skin Research &
Technology 2008; 14 : S. 440-447
Background/purpose: In the present work, it was studied whether repeated use of lotioned disposable
handkerchiefs on tape-stripped forearm skin was able to improve skin barrier recovery.
Methods: Skin assessments included scoring of visual erythema and dryness/scaliness; and
measuring of skin redness (Chromameter
CM825), and
transepidermal water loss (Tewameter