Pattern basics and

anthropometric methods
Course: TEX-207 Clothing Anthropometry and Pattern Construction
 Pattern construction tools
• Set square (larger) • Different rulers
• Common pins and thumb pins
• Pin holder
• Pattern sheets (Charts)
• Scotch Tape
• French curve ruler • Pencils, sharpener, rubbers
• Measuring tape
• Paper cutter
• Tracing sheet
• Japanese ruler • Tracing wheel
• Tailoring chalk
• Paper scissor
• Fabric scissor
Pattern construction tools
Pattern construction tools
 Key terms
• Pattern drafting: Patternmaking to create basic, foundation, or design
patterns.

• Flat patternmaking: Patternmaking based on developed patterns.

• Basic pattern set: 5-piece pattern set developed without design

features.
Basic pattern set
 Key terms
• Grain: Direction in which yarn is woven or knitted.

• Lengthwise grain (warp): Yarns parallel with selvage and at right

angles to the crosswise grain. It is most stable grain.

• Crosswise grain (weft): Yarns woven across fabric from selvage to

selvage. It is the filling yarn of woven fabrics. Crosswise grain yields
to tension.
 Key terms
• Selvage: The narrow, firmly woven, and finished strip on both
lengthwise grain edges of the woven fabric. Clipping selvage releases
tension.

• Bias: A slanting or diagonal line cut or sewn across weave of cloth.

• True bias: Angle line that intersects with lengthwise and crosswise
grains at a 45° angle. True bias has maximum give and stretch, easily
conforming to the figure’s contours.
Grain
 Pattern grainline
• Direction of laying pattern piece on fabric.
• Common grainline: Vertical line running from top to bottom of
pattern.
• Pattern piece should be placed on lengthwise grain of fabric.
 Pattern grainline
• Drawn on each pattern piece (from
end to end) to indicate how the
pattern should align with the
lengthwise grain of the fabric.

• Pattern grainline must always be

parallel to selvage edge of fabric.
 Effect of grainline on garments

• Vertical grainlines are

drawn parallel to center
for garments cut on
straight grain (Figure 2).
 Effect of grainline on garments

• Bias grainlines are

drawn at an angle to
center (45° angle for
true bias) for garments
cut on the bias (Figure
3).
 Effect of grainline on garments
• Horizontal grainlines are
drawn at right angles to
center for garments cut
on crosswise grain
(Figure 4).
 Dart

• Converts a 2D pattern into a 3D garment.

• Turn a flat piece of cloth into a shape to

accommodate the curves of body.
 Dart
• Bust point. Designated place on bust and
pattern (pivotal point or apex, Figure 1).

• Dart. Wedge-shaped cut-out in a pattern to

control the fit of a garment when stitched.

• Dart legs. Two lines that converge at a

predetermined point on the pattern.

• Dart intake. Space confined between dart legs.

• Take up excess where it is not needed.
• Gradually release fabric where it is needed.
Darts
Darts
Standard measurement chart
Drafting the basic pattern set
Basic dress consists of five distinct parts.
1. Front bodice.
2. Back bodice.
3. Front skirt.
4. Back skirt.
5. Full-length sleeves.
Creating basic patterns
• 2D piece of paper (for drafting).

• Dimensions of form or model takes up necessary

space.

• Remaining paper is cut away.

 Pattern information
• Grainline: Drawn through length of patterns.
• Pattern identification: Label each pattern (bodice front, back, skirt,
sleeve, collar, pocket).
• Style number: Write the code number of the pattern set—for
example, 3363 (33 may identify the type of garment and 63 may
identify the fabric).
• Pattern size: Record pattern size.
• Pieces cut: Write the number of pieces cut from each pattern to
complete garment.
 Seam allowance
• Area between fabric edge and stitching
line on two pieces of material being sewn
together.

• 1⁄4 inch for curved areas or hidden seams.

• 1 inch or more for areas that require extra

fabric for final fitting to wearer.

• Curved seams generally have a smaller

seam allowance than straight seams.
 Seam allowance
Seam Allowance (general 1/2 Inch
guidelines): • Armholes with sleeves
1/4 Inch • Waistlines
• All faced areas • Center lines
• Stylelines
• Sleeveless armholes
• Side seams (vary: 3/4 inch, 1
• Narrow spacing inch)
• Extreme curves • Zipper seams (vary: 3/4 inch, 1
inch)
Overlock Seam
• 3/8-inch seam allowance
Pattern information
Basic Pattern Set—Seamed:
Anthropometric methods
• Ensure the comparability of measurements obtained
by different measurers.

• Ensure the comparability of repeated measurements

by the same measurer.
 Anthropometric methods
• For this purpose, standardize:
• Postures for measurement.

• Points on the body used to define measurements (landmarks).

• Instruments.

• Measurement procedure.

• Measurement attire.
 Traditional anthropometrical methods
• Human measurers decide the landmark locations.

• Take measurements manually using calipers and a tape

measure.

• Time consuming.

• More chances of error.

Traditional anthropometric methods
Basic standing posture:
• Subject stands straight with feet together.

• Shoulders are relaxed and the arms are hanging down

naturally.

• The head is oriented in the Frankfurt plane (the Frankfurt

plane of the subject is horizontal).
Basic standing posture
Traditional anthropometric methods
Basic sitting posture:

• Subject sits straight with thighs fully supported by a

horizontal plane.

• The head is oriented in the Frankfurt plane.

Frankfurt plane (or: orbitale, tr: tragion).
• Defined using three landmarks of the head: the right tragion, left
tragion, and left orbitale.
 Frankfurt plane
• Head orientation affects the accuracy of measurements such as the
height and neck circumference.
• Tragion: Notch just above the tragus.
• Orbitale: Lowest point on the lower edge of the orbit (eye socket),
which can only be located by palpation.
• Three landmarks should be marked in advance.
• Confirm that the line connecting the left tragion and the left orbitale is
horizontal just before taking a measurement.
Traditional anthropometric methods
Measuring instruments
• Instruments that are used in traditional anthropometry are
calibrated in millimeters.

• Measurements are read to the nearest millimeter except small

measurements of the head, hand, or foot.
Traditional anthropometric methods
Anthropometer

• Used to measure a
vertical distance
from the floor to a
specific landmark.
Traditional anthropometric methods
Large sliding caliper

• Used for measuring large

distances between two
landmarks and for breadth
and depth measurements.
Traditional anthropometric methods
Sliding caliper

• Used to measure small

breadth measurements
and the distance between
two landmarks.
Traditional anthropometric methods
Spreading caliper
• Used to measure the
distance between two
landmarks when two
tips of a sliding caliper
cannot touch the
landmarks because a
part of the body is in the
way, such as chest depth
in the mid- sagittal plane
and head length.
Traditional anthropometric methods
Tape measure.
Used for measuring the circumference and surface distance.
Traditional anthropometric methods
Role of the measurer
• Measurer, measurer assistant, and subject must be of same gender.
• Measurers should be properly trained.
• Measurer must decide and mark the locations of landmarks.
• Gives proper instructions to the subject for maintaining the correct
posture.
• Gives proper instructions to the assistant.
• Takes actual measurements.
Traditional anthropometric methods
Role of the assistant
• Records the measured value in the correct cell of a data sheet.
• Should repeat the value aloud before writing.
• Asks the measurer to take another measurement in case of doubt.
• Helps the measurer by checking the posture of the subject that is not
visible to the measurer.
• Checks the orientation of the anthropometer.
• Holds the tape measure at the back of the subject.
• Should be aware without instruction from measurer.
Traditional anthropometric methods
Measurement errors
• Main cause of errors is skill of the measurer.
• Differences between measurements by two measurers should be within
an acceptable range.
• Training to reduce the bias between measurers.
• To reduce bias develop “common understanding of locations of
landmarks between measurers”.
Three-dimensional (3D) anthropometry
• Non-contact human body measuring systems.

• Three-dimensional (3D) body scanners.

• 3D body surface shape and landmark locations can be obtained, and

measurements can be calculated.
Three-dimensional (3D) anthropometry
• Much more expensive than traditional tools.

• More people can be measured in a limited time.

• 1D measurements from 3D scanner: Should be comparable with

traditional methods.
Three-dimensional (3D) anthropometry
Landmarking can be:
• Done by measurer (3D anthropometry-1)
(Figure 3.1).

• Calculated from body surface data (3D

anthropometry-2).
Basics of 3D measurement
• Triangulation: Depth information in 3D body scanners (Fig. 3.5 ).

• Single slit light or structured patterns are projected.

• Landmarking methods: Manually mark or calculate locations

automatically. Automatic calculations save time.

• Landmarks labeling: Manual or system automatically names

markers.
Basics of 3D measurement
Scanning posture
• Standing posture in traditional methods: Not suitable
for 3D scanning.

• Postures are different for both: 1D measurements not

comparable.

• ISO 20685: Arms are abducted 20° and distance between

both foot axes is 20 cm.
a) Basic standing posture.

b) Arms and legs abducted.

• Head oriented in Frankfurt plane.
• Long axes of feet are parallel and 20 cm
apart.
• Upper arms abducted to form 20° angle
with side of the torso, the elbows are
straight.
• Palms face backward.
• Subject breaths quietly.
Scanning attire
• Do not wear too loose or too tight.

• Should be appropriate for the purpose of the measurement.

• Shape changes according to the garment.

• ISO 20685: Wear garments that expose landmarks.

Scanning attire
• Use a seam on the center back of the lower garment.

• Most 3D body scanners: Cannot capture dark colors.

• Long hair: Pull up (do not hide the neck and shoulders).
 Comparability of 3D scanned and
traditional measurements
Quality of scanned measurements
• Accuracy of scanner.

• Performance of software for detecting and

calculating the coordinates of the center of marker
stickers and for calculating body dimensions using
landmark locations.
Comparability of 3D scanned and
traditional measurements
• Skill of the measurer to decide landmarks if the
system uses manually chosen landmark
locations.

• Skill of the operator to pick the center of

marker stickers using a mouse if the system uses
manually chosen marker locations.
 Comparability of 3D scanned and
traditional measurements

• Body sway during scan.

• Many more factors compared to traditional

where skill is dominant.
 Evaluation procedure to compare 3D
scanned and traditional measurements
1. Measure N subjects (N ≥ 40) by both methods.
2. Calculate error for all subjects. Measurement difference between
both methods.
3. Calculate:
• Lower and upper limits = mean error ± 1.96 × the standard error.
• Standard error = SD/square root of N.
4. Compare:
• Maximum allowable error < Lower limit.
• Upper limit < Maximum allowable error.
 Evaluation procedure to compare 3D
scanned and traditional measurements
Maximum allowable error for different measurements:

• 4 mm for height, small circumference, and body breadth.

• 5 mm for segment length and body depth.

• 9 mm for large circumference.

• 2 mm for foot and head including the hair.

• 1 mm for hand and head excluding the hair.

Evaluation procedure to compare 3D
scanned and traditional measurements
Example:
1. Measure height for 74 subjects (39 females and 35 males) by a
bodyline scanner and by a skilled anthropometrist.
2. Calculate error as difference between scan-derived and traditional
measurement for the 74 subjects.
 Evaluation procedure to compare 3D
scanned and traditional measurements
3. Calculate:
• Lower and upper limits = mean error ± 1.96 × the standard error. Lower =
5.6 − 1.96 × 4.9 /√74 = 4.48 [mm]. Upper = 5.6 + 1.96 × 4.9/√74 = 6.72
[mm]

4. Compare:
• Maximum allowable error < lower limit. = 4 mm < 4.48 mm
• Upper limit < Maximum allowable error. = 6.72 > 4 mm (not comparable)
• Maximum allowable error of height measurements = 4 mm.
• This scanner gives larger values.
Selecting a 3D body scanner
• Scan volume.

• Time necessary for one scan.

• Resolution.

• Accuracy.
Selecting a 3D body scanner
• Scan direction.

• Function to capture the texture.

• Function to capture pre-marked landmark locations and its

method (manual or automatic).
Selecting a 3D body scanner
• Number of cameras arranged in different directions.

• Function to merge data obtained by different cameras.

• Function to calculate 1D measurements.

• Function to generate a homologous model.

List of references
• Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong.
• Pattern making basics. http://isntthatsew.org/.
• Gupta, D., & Zakaria, N. (Eds.). Anthropometry, apparel sizing and
design. Elsevier, 2014.