Ajrak: The Ancient Art of Fabric Printing

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Ajrak 

The Ancient Art Of Fabric Printing


Etymon
• The Sindhi word ajrak (‫ )اجرڪ‬comes from Persian language ajar
or ajor (‫ )اجر‬meaning brick and -ak (‫ )ک‬meaning little. In Persian
-ak is a suffix which forms the diminutive.
History

• The Ajrak craft was practiced by the Khatri community,


living in the banks of river Sindh (Indus in present-day
Pakistan). In 16th century, these families migrated to Kutch
when the King of Kutch recognized their craft and invited
them to settle in the barren uninhabited land, along with
dyers, printers, potters and embroiderers. These dyers
were Khatri Brahmins initially but when due to their craft they
felt the need to settled themselves near the river, so slowly
and gradually they converted themselves to Islam and got
mingled with the people of the village called Dhamadka.
Designs of Block-printing
• But as Almighty had some different plans for them so there came a
massive earthquake in Kutch in 2001 due to which the block printers
were forced to relocate. They settled in Ajrakpur, a village built in
coordination with relief NGOs. As of now, there are over one
hundred families living in Ajrakpur and 30 official block printing
workshops. This has become a primary hub from where almost all of
the families in Ajrakpur generate their principal income from. Today
the Ajrak traditions are maintained in Kutch, and in Khavda,
Dhamadka and Barmer in Rajasthan. The families of Ajrak work
exclusively with natural dyes and make fabrics, dupattas, stoles, and
sarees, etc. These materials are then sent to all domestic cities of
India.
Dyes
• Ajrak craft products are made with natural dyes. The entire
production of the products include both vegetable dyes and mineral
dyes. Indigo is a key dye.

o Natural dye products used in o Visual comparison of the


Ajrak craft chemical and natural dyes used in
Ajrak block print.
Ajrak blocks
• The most commonly observed pattern in Ajrak blocks and hence the
fabric is dots between two lines, these dots are of same radius in
almost all the design. These dots were initially carved out by hands,
however later on brass nails were used to fill spaces between the two
walls. This aspect is crucial in determining the expertise of the artisan.

o Ajrak double bed-sheet


Importance
• The ajrak is an integral part of Sindhi culture. Its usage is evident at all
levels of society, and is held in high esteem, with the utmost respect
given to it. According to Sindhi traditions, ajraks are often presented
as gifts of hospitality to guests and presented to the person who is
utterly respectable. They are also worn on festive occasions such as
weddings and cultural events. Many prominent politicians from Sindh
publicly wear ajraks, including the deceased former Pakistani Prime
Minister, Benazir Bhutto.
Modern day use
• Ajrak has now become increasingly popular amongst block print lovers. Post
the earthquake, there has been an increase in the demand for Ajrak, moving
its status from a local tribal caste dress to a catwalk worthy craft [7] This has
led to a huge amount of funds and dedication from a range of brands being
focused onto innovation in the block print. Newer colours have been
developed, along with new blocks, techniques etc.[8]

• Ajrak has predominantly been a craft using natural dyes, making it inherently
expensive. However, with the increase in demand for fast fashion products
and cheaper items, chemical dyes have been utilised in Ajrak products.
Honour
Sindhi Ajrak, along with Sindhi topi, is bestowed upon the guests as an
honour.[6] This serves two purposes. First it makes the guest feel
comfortable with the host. Secondly, it allows the guest to appreciate
the Sindhi Culture.

o American soldier wearing Ajrak

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