2.1 Quailty Control in Spinning

Application of Quality Control
in
Spinning
1
Quality Assurance Steps in Spinning
 Setting of norms
 Quality of incoming raw material
 Process monitoring and control
 Inspection of final product
2
Quality of incoming raw material
 Test of raw cotton in terms of physical parameters
and accept if comparable with norms
 Careful transportation & storage of cotton bales
3
Fibre testing equipment
The testing of fibres is always important to the spinner. Quality of the fibre is maintained through
different lab test in the spinning. Theses are
 HVI (High Volume Instrument):
High volume instrument systems are based on the fibre bundle testing, i.e., many fibres are
checked at the same time and their average values determined.
For fineness, color, trash, length & strength measurement.
 AFIS (Advanced Fiber Information System):

Sample weight taken for this test is 5 gm. Then this sample cotton is rolled up to 31 cm. then
it is inserted to the machine.
For neps, size of neps, fibre length, short fibre content, fineness,
immature fibre content, no. and size of trash measurement.
 Shirley Analyser: For trash content measurement.

In this testing the trash content (seeds, particles, leaves, etc.) in the fiber is measured.
 Nep counter: For fibre length, neps, short fibre measurement.
 Moisture Regain tester: For MR% testing.

Yarn testing equipment
 Wrap reel and balance: Yarn count testing
 Auto sorter: For count & CV% analysis
 Evenness tester: yarn imperfection, U%, hairiness etc.
 Uster classimate: Yarn fault analysis.
 Yarn tension meter: To test the tension of the yarn
 Twist tester: To count the twist per unit length
 Yarn strength tester: To test the strength of the yarn
Software:
 Bale Inventory and Analysis Software (BIAS): For bale management
Quality of Fiber: Staple Length
 Staple Length: The average length of a spinnable fiber is called Staple

Length. Staple length is the most important fiber characteristics.
Rating on staple length

Class Spun Length (mm)
Extra long staple 33.0 and above
Long staple 29.5 to 32.5
Medium staple 25.0 to 29.0
Short staple A 20.5 to 24.5
Short staple B 20.0 and below
Quality of Fiber: Digital fibrograph
Quality of Fiber: Uniformity Ratio
 2.5% span length: 2.5% span length is the distance between the catching
points of fibres (100% fibres) and a point where, 2.5% of the total numbers of
fibres are present.
 50% span length: 50% span length is the distance between the catching points
of fibers (100% fibres) and a point where, 50% of total numbers of fibres are
present.
Quality of Fiber: Uniformity Ratio
Definition Rating
 Uniformity ratio is defined as the Uniformity Ratio Grade
ratio of 50% spun length to the
47 Good
2.5% spun length expressed as a
percentage 45 Average
43 Poor
50% spun length
UR=-----------------------------------x100
2.5% spun length
 This ratio is a measure of the
length variability of the cotton.
Quality of Fiber: Fiber Fineness
 MIC : fiber weight in micrograms Rating

per inch. It indicates the maturity
and fineness of fibers
MIC Description
 Fiber fineness affects:
Upto 3.1 Very fine
 Strength and irregularity of yarn
 Twist for maximum strength 3.1-3.9 Fine
 Drape and handling of fabric 4.0-4.9 Medium
5.0-5.9 Slightly Coarse
6.0-above Coarse
Quality of Fiber: Fiber Strength
 Fiber strength is measured by

breaking the fibers held between
Strength (g/tex) Description
clamp jaws. It’s reported as grams
per tex, which is the force in Less than 21 Very weak
grams required to break a bundle 22-24 Weak
of fibers one tex unit in size. A tex
unit is equal to the weight in grams 25-27 Medium
of 1000 meters of fiber 28-30 Strong
31-higher Very strong
Quality of fiber: Maturity coefficient (Mc)
 The fiber maturity count is denoted by the percentages of the mature, half
mature and immature fibers in a sample. It can be calculated using the formula,
Mc = (N + 0.6H + 0.4I)/100
where N - percentage of mature fibers.
H - Percentage half mature fibers
I - Percentage of immature fibers
For the chosen standard, N = 67% D or I = 7% and H = 26%.

So, Mc = ( 67 + 0.6(26) + 0.4(7) )/100 = 0.854

Quality of fiber: Maturity coefficient (Mc)
 Based on the maturity coefficient, the cottons are classed into different
groups as shown below:
Maturity Coefficient Rating

Below 0.60 Very Immature
0.60 to 0.70 Immature
0.71 to 0.80 Average Maturity
0.81-0.85 Good Maturity
Fibre Quality Index (FQI)
 Different fiber characteristics are synthesized into a single index called Fiber
quality index (FQI)
FQI = L * U *S / F
Where, L= 50% spun length in mm

S= Fiber bundle strength expressed in gm/tex
F= fiber fineness (micronaire value)
U= Uniformity Ratio
Calculation of FQI
 Properties of a cotton is as follow

50% Span length = 28 mm
Uniformity Ratio = 0.47
Micronaire value = 4.3
Strength (gm/tex) = 22.5
 Find out the FQI of that cotton

L*U*S 28*0.47*22.5
FQI=-------------------- = --------------------------------= 296.1/4.3=68.86
F 4.3
Relation between CSP and FQI
Yarn Faults
The undesirable and sometimes unavoidable defects that are found in yarn are
known as yarn fault. It is impossible to produce fault-free yarn. So the
spinners try to produce yarn with considerable limit of fault.
Faults found in yarn are:
 Count variation
 Unevenness & irregularity
 Thick thin place and neps (Imperfection Index – IPI of yarn)
 Hairiness
 Lot mixing
 Dead Fiber
Types of Yarn Fault
 Count variation: According to the textile institute, “ Count is the

mathematical expression of fineness which expresses the length per unit
weight of weight per unit length”. Practically ± 3 count variation is
acceptable. Count can be measured by wrap reel and balance or using count
measuring software (CMS).
 Unevenness or irregularity: It is the mass variation per unit length. Cut

length is taken generally 1cm. This fault is expressed as U% or CV%. Evenness
tester is used to measure unevenness.
Types of Yarn Faults: IPI
 IPI stands for Imperfection Index of yarns, Imperfections is the description for
thin, thick places and neps in 1000m of yarn
Here, D= Dia of normal yarn

Types of Yarn Faults
 Hairiness: Hairiness means the protruding fibres on yarn surface. It is the

ratio of the total length of hair in any unit to the length observed in same
unit. Generally it is measured as the ratio of total length of protruding fibres
(in cm) per cm of yarn. The hairiness value is the ratio of two lengths; so it
has no unit.
 Lot mixing: Sometimes two lots can be mixed at the stage of sliver, roving,
bobbin, cone and cartoon in spinning mill, as well as in the preparatory
section weaving and knitting mill. This type of mixing causes several problems
in subsequent process.
Types of Yarn Faults
 Dead Fiber: Presence of dead fiber is a great problem for end users as dead
fibers are not capable to absorb dyes, So they remain undyed/white after
dyeing.
Causes of imperfection
 Causes of thick & thin places:

1. Short fibre content
2. Improper draft
3. Poor efficiency of carding & combing
4. Twist variation
 Causes of Neps:
 Immature fibre
 Improper ginning
 Improper carding speed & card setting
 Less efficiency of card
 Improper drafting speed
24
Factors Affecting Yarn Strength
1) Quality of Mixing:
 Fibre Properties: Better length, strength & fineness of fibre gives better yarn strength.
 Mixing Ratio: Proper mixing leads to higher & uniform yarn strength.
2) Quality of carding:
 Mechanical condition of all carding surface

 Waste control in carding action
 Proper maintenance
25
3) Quality of comber:
 Level of comber waste.

 Mechanical condition of comber.
4) Quality of drafting at ring frame:
 Mechanical condition of the drafting system.

 Total draft.
 Break draft.
 Types of drafting system
26
5) Quality of twisting at ring frame:
 Amount of appropriate twist.

 Level of twist
 Uniformity of twist
6) Other processing factor:
 Atmospheric condition
 Static electricity
 Direction of feeding of fibre hooks.
27
Yarn Test in Composite Factory
Yarn is tested to evaluate the presence of

 a. Dead fiber,
 b. Contamination,
 c. Patta,
 d. Thick-thin place (IPI),
 e. Neps,
 f. Slubs and
 g. Hairiness
 Process:
 After receiving the yarn, factory knit/weave sample yardage
 Sample fabric is dyed in light coloured and dark coloured shade
 There are some yarn defects that are visible only in light colour and some are dark
colour
 Defects are assessed with standards and decision is taken regarding further use of
the yarn.

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Application of Quality Control

 Careful transportation & storage of cotton bales

 AFIS (Advanced Fiber Information System):

 Shirley Analyser: For trash content measurement.

 Nep counter: For fibre length, neps, short fibre measurement.

 Moisture Regain tester: For MR% testing.

 Staple Length: The average length of a spinnable fiber is called Staple

Rating on staple length

 MIC : fiber weight in micrograms Rating

 Fiber strength is measured by

For the chosen standard, N = 67% D or I = 7% and H = 26%.

Maturity Coefficient Rating

Where, L= 50% spun length in mm

 Properties of a cotton is as follow

 Find out the FQI of that cotton

 Count variation: According to the textile institute, “ Count is the

 Unevenness or irregularity: It is the mass variation per unit length. Cut

Here, D= Dia of normal yarn

 Hairiness: Hairiness means the protruding fibres on yarn surface. It is the

 Causes of thick & thin places:

 Mechanical condition of all carding surface

 Level of comber waste.

4) Quality of drafting at ring frame:

 Mechanical condition of the drafting system.

5) Quality of twisting at ring frame:

 Amount of appropriate twist.

6) Other processing factor:

Yarn is tested to evaluate the presence of

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